I appreciate the logical yet professional approach to solving the problem. That's what most of us do that just want to get the job done, take of the customer and no go back a 100 times! You can solve a problem or service it over and over...
I have done the same thing many times before when a txv fails. A piston is a much more simplistic metering device that can literally be trouble free. I wouldn't have changed the drier either. Good job John!
I say... Great Job! We've bought a new house one and a half years ago. The TXV has to be replace already. I think that the piston system would be a wonderful idea... Thank You for Sharing
Thanks for the content bubba John I'm going through school in Vegas and I learn best from watching people do the job. I'm from the south so I can listen to you talk without getting distracted or annoyed! Hell yeah and thank you!
Agreed, if you leave the system open for a while then it can bring in some moisture. Even then, the filter drier will dry it out, and its a brand new drier. Forget that, look at that boogers on the braze. SMH.
From the looks of those braze joints, and burned up grommet at the indoor coil, one has to wonder how good the rest of the workmanship is. Maybe the TXV failed due to scale or contamination in the system. I would definitely change the dryer. Who knows what contaminants are inside that system,if you’re not the one who put it in?
John,.. do your thing, and how you want to do it. Forget all the a-holes who always have negative complaints on what you should and should not do. Wish you could install my new HVAC system. Keep up the good work! 👍
Great Job!! One thing I learned is that photos and videos. Is not always the same thing vs when you're live working on something. Then you have to proof to people something. Seen an issue or something in front of you with your eyes, live vs a video. But Thank you so much for this great video for showing us how do it.
I have no issues with replacing a bad txt with a piston I’ve done it a million times. I’m like you though, if it’s a warranty unit I will get a new valve if it’s under warranty. I also agree with you about the filter dryer.
i was told to replace the filter dryer, but after seeing the comments and this video i see that it’s kind of unnecessary! thanks! great vid helped a lot!
My 3 ton Trane is 26 smh and just went with a piston. No room for txv,tight closet and and 80% flue pipe + bi pass round duct share space. Bro good video
Oh yeah, good hardware gets saved. I have the old Tecumseh compressor covers and a bunch of the overload holding brackets and the new Tecumseh compressor covers. I also save the different capacitor mounting brackets. I have a Graslin defrost timer box filled with the extra parts from those ACME 700 fan motor kits. I can't believe how many times those old bits saved my butt in the field.
I agree with you about the filter drier. I replaced a txv on a trane unit today and the drier was built into the condenser. I pumped the condenser down so I wouldn't have to recover the r22 and pulled a real good vacuum. 1 Trublu hose on the suction and bluevac gauge on the liquid. Pulled down to 211 microns in about 20 minutes
The closet that my furnace and 5 ton coil is located is a little bit wider but shorter than the one in this video. Removing the old HVAC equipment out wasn't that bad but installing the new equipment was a pain in the rear. I had to get a winch and pulley to drop down the old coil from the attic (after removing the furnace) and pull up the new coil. My daughter helped me remove the old furnace (after I removed the blower assembly) and she also helped me lift the new furnace into place. I dropped the new coil down onto the new furnace after I put a thick bead of silicone on top of the furnace to seal it. I attached and sealed the new plenum to the top of the new coil. I think I lost ten pounds just installing the furnace and coil. BTW, I pre-piped the coil (so the pipe would be easily accessible for final soldering with Stay-Brite 8) and pressure tested the coil and pipe before soldering it to the line set. I have no idea how the installer got the original furnace, coil, and plenum installed in my house when it was built. Somebody said that it was probably installed before the sheetrock went in and that makes sense.
Been enjoying your videos. I'd like to see a complete step by step on a condenser change out. I know it would be hard to film, but I'm curious of the process and I cant seem to find any videos on it. Either way though great videos. Keep em comin!
Nice repair John 💪 I wouldn't of replaced the drier either. A quick in & out with a vacuum all good to go! Good to see you upload a video. Hope to see you go live soon 👍
Good job. Really there’s no need to change the filter dryer if one of the unit has it been exposed alarm. The time to the compressor didn’t burn out through there’s no signs of contaminants. changing the filter dryer would just be extra without real reason in this case
If the txv goes bad, doesn't the quality of the coolant become suspect? So putting in a new dryer would make sense unless you were in a hurry or something?
Good job. The only critique I would add is, you skipped a step... namely pressurizing the system for leaks, to check your work. We’re not perfect and sometimes things don’t close up the way we would like them to. even if it’s only 40 psi ( because of the pump down ) and some bubbles. This way, if the service valve leaked, it still couldn’t leak into the refrigerant side because of the higher pressure.
OK, I am still new to this, so please answer me this. I picked up a Evap coil by ADP. The liquid line attaches to the front of the case...and has a piston in it, but the unit is for r22 or 410a and has a cap on it. At 12:00 on your video you have what I do on the right or bottom side, but I can not find anything to connect to it...i.e 3/8 copper tubing to your left side or top. What kind of connector is that on the left or top side? Under the cap on mine is the white seal, then piston, and then another small white seal. I spent the better part of an hour going to every fitting I could at Lowes...so they do not have it. I recon that the threads are for a TXV valve...so what else has those threads??? This is obviously not a flared or compression connection. The threads appear to be (exact measurements here...) .75 OD of the threads, and the flat is .675 and the threads appear to be 24 Tpi. Help, maybe?
Evening John, while I understand location makes all the difference; what do you typically charge to replace HVAC TXV? Local companies are quoting between $1800 and $2000. Thanks in advance.
Hi ! Excellent videos thanks 🙏🏻 1 question if I want to work with the home insurance to they send me jobs how can I do that I don’t know if you can answer this but thanks for your videos again
Ever think why the txv went bad, a piston may have less parts but it cant control the heat load, how about doing a proper evacuation and install a txv properly, and if there are noncondensables in the system or coming from the dryer, now the piston will be blocked
Be aware that when you jump power using the equipment ground as a return, everything bonded now has return current on it. i have done it myself when there is no alternative, just be aware of what your doing.
Israel, I have a new 410a unit with TXV and the low pressure line is warm. I called the pro and asked about it, and he said this is normal. Is that true? TF, Lafayette, LA
@Eric M I'll be there tomorrow and check it but I know the line was definitely not 25 deg colder. I'll bring my IR thermometer and take some temps of the lines and the vent temps.
The filter drier should have been moved inside, therefore you should have replaced it along with not robbing them by removing a txv for a piston. You should rename your channel to Shade Tree HVAC
TXV sucks may be energy efficient but not cost efficient when built like crap and you have to pay to change out. Also this is some trash unit from r e micheal that you can tell was not purged bc of the burn mark up the door fuck a TXV and a filter dryer get in get out it’s trashed anyway from the start
Excellent video! Are the pistons based on tonnage? If anyone has a part number for a piston that works on a 4 ton (York-XAHC48FXXN1A coil) heat pump, please let me know. It ships without a TXV and I'm having a ridiculously hard time sourcing the correct one.
Drops teflon ring in water, inserts into piston body..lmao. just kidding man. Enjoyed this video. Never went from a txv to a piston. Usually the other way around. Can't go wrong with a fixed orifice though
Hmm let's see your qualifications are you make videos on UA-cam working on residential systems with from one video shows that you lack the knowledge and expertise to perform repairs correctly. My qualifications are working on ammonia and synthetic refrigerant refrigeration systems that have miles of piping and complex control systems. What you did in this video is kill the efficiency of the unit and modify it outside of its design by the manufacturer. All in the name of making it easier for you to work on because you lack the common understanding of a txv system. Your probably could have used a manufacturer approved oil treatment to the issue. Even then replacing the txv is not that complicated and time consuming. Given the lack skill with brazing on the install it's safe to presume the installer did not flow nitrogen. With POE oil being hydroscopic its best to install a new filter drier after open a system for repair that's cheap insurance. You can laugh or you can grow with times thought txvs have been around longer than I have been alive so I don't think that's your problem.
@@rpsmith I have some rental properties, 30 to 40-year-old houses. Some have Bryant air handle units those have piston flow raters. I bought those properties back then in 1995 and 1996. One Bryant unit condenser has a Master Valves; metal seal valved is closed after you charged the system. I have never lost any freon in the system the last 12 years. No problem with piston rater for the air handler for 27 years, of course never replace it yet on PSC motor inside the air handler. The other condenser is RUUD. It does not have master valves at the condenser, have to charge the freon every 3 years. Inside unit is Bryant; 27 years old, just replace the PSC motor last year. It costs me $125 and I installed it myself about 3 hours with cleaning up the blower wheel. All using R22 systems. You do not know how expensive is to change the TXV now a day, between $750 to $1000. Lucky, I do not have to have a headache with the txv. Now a day I have to change the compressor on my 8-year-old condenser. Your efficiency of your air conditioning system is determined by how much heat is removed from the inside that depends on how much freon flows in pounds multiplied by latent heat of evaporation of the freon. Other newer house I had to replace X-motor inside the air handler on 3-year-old unit, this pissed me off. It cost me $400 motor only, I installed it myself. Hand down I choose the refrigeration system using master valves at the condenser, sight glass, piston rater; psc motor at the air handles. If your suction line by your condenser is at 40 to 45 degrees that is the best to cool your compressor, your compressor will last very very long. Compressor for the Bryant unit was piston compressor that still working like a champ (27 years since I bought the house). The compressor for Ruud was Rotary compressor made by Copeland) 27-year span is a long time to see who perform best. Regards, Armanto. Mechanical Engineer
I don't quite understand why you're measuring superheat when you have a txv. Supposedly superheat varies with the operation of a TXV. Or so a technician at Mr Cool told me.
Hey I was wondering if you or anyone seeing this happen before . We put in a brand new American standard and with a TXV anyways super heat was 14 and sub cooling was good , 17 degree spilt . Works and cools good . But a couple times a day out of no where the condenser compressor starts sounding crazy for about 10 mins than it goes back to normal . Tech support had no clue and we are looking at changing the compressor. Put the bulb in hot water thinking maybe it’s closing but that doesn’t take the sound away . Supper weird call because it happens so random . Went 3 times before I heard it lol any ideas ???
I would recover the entire charge, change the drier, evacuate to 500 microns and recharge with new refrigerant and see if that solves the issue before replacing the compressor.
I appreciate the logical yet professional approach to solving the problem. That's what most of us do that just want to get the job done, take of the customer and no go back a 100 times!
You can solve a problem or service it over and over...
I have done the same thing many times before when a txv fails. A piston is a much more simplistic metering device that can literally be trouble free. I wouldn't have changed the drier either. Good job John!
Very good job done John
What about the screen before txv what if that was clogged? Was there not one? I only have 1 1/2 exp. Just asking.
How do you know what piston size use if the manufacturer only references to replace only for another TXV???
I say... Great Job! We've bought a new house one and a half years ago. The TXV has to be replace already. I think that the piston system would be a wonderful idea... Thank You for Sharing
Sometimes that tiny bit of efficiency sacrificed is well worth it for trouble free operation..... good video John !! Keep them coming.
Can I do the same with a duel fuel system? Since I’m having trouble to get a hp coil?
I’m not an HVAC man. I just like to know how things work. Excellent video. Thanks.
Thanks for the content bubba John I'm going through school in Vegas and I learn best from watching people do the job. I'm from the south so I can listen to you talk without getting distracted or annoyed! Hell yeah and thank you!
I wouldn't change the drier ether, it's just an in and out job.and when you have been doing this for awhile you know your stuff.great job .
The txv failing so quick and crappy drainline shows the installer was a hack. Why take a chance with leaving the dryer, 5 minutes to replace.
No, you can have dirty stuff there
Agreed, if you leave the system open for a while then it can bring in some moisture. Even then, the filter drier will dry it out, and its a brand new drier. Forget that, look at that boogers on the braze. SMH.
From the looks of those braze joints, and burned up grommet at the indoor coil, one has to wonder how good the rest of the workmanship is. Maybe the TXV failed due to scale or contamination in the system. I would definitely change the dryer. Who knows what contaminants are inside that system,if you’re not the one who put it in?
John,.. do your thing, and how you want to do it. Forget all the a-holes who always have negative complaints on what you should and should not do. Wish you could install my new HVAC system. Keep up the good work! 👍
Great Job!! One thing I learned is that photos and videos. Is not always the same thing vs when you're live working on something. Then you have to proof to people something. Seen an issue or something in front of you with your eyes, live vs a video. But Thank you so much for this great video for showing us how do it.
I have no issues with replacing a bad txt with a piston I’ve done it a million times. I’m like you though, if it’s a warranty unit I will get a new valve if it’s under warranty. I also agree with you about the filter dryer.
There are houses with undersized units that need a piston to produce 32 - 33 degree coil temp
i was told to replace the filter dryer, but after seeing the comments and this video i see that it’s kind of unnecessary! thanks! great vid helped a lot!
Don’t believe everything you hear on you tube. You learned correctly.
Not a problem installing a new filter dryer , thats why they have vacuum pumps.
My 3 ton Trane is 26 smh and just went with a piston. No room for txv,tight closet and and 80% flue pipe + bi pass round duct share space. Bro good video
Thanks. I’ve hear of this being done but it’s good to actually see it because it’s my only option on a job this week.
Oh yeah, good hardware gets saved. I have the old Tecumseh compressor covers and a bunch of the overload holding brackets and the new Tecumseh compressor covers. I also save the different capacitor mounting brackets. I have a Graslin defrost timer box filled with the extra parts from those ACME 700 fan motor kits.
I can't believe how many times those old bits saved my butt in the field.
Man I hadn't seen anything from you in awhile I didn't know if you were still alive. Glad you are.....
The guy who installed that condenser sure did leave some ugly solder joints lol I wouldn’t change the drier either, keep up the good work John!
Brazed joints
I agree with you about the filter drier. I replaced a txv on a trane unit today and the drier was built into the condenser. I pumped the condenser down so I wouldn't have to recover the r22 and pulled a real good vacuum. 1 Trublu hose on the suction and bluevac gauge on the liquid. Pulled down to 211 microns in about 20 minutes
As always another great job and a new customer.
Stay safe my friend
Nice job John, really enjoyed watching this
The closet that my furnace and 5 ton coil is located is a little bit wider but shorter than the one in this video. Removing the old HVAC equipment out wasn't that bad but installing the new equipment was a pain in the rear. I had to get a winch and pulley to drop down the old coil from the attic (after removing the furnace) and pull up the new coil. My daughter helped me remove the old furnace (after I removed the blower assembly) and she also helped me lift the new furnace into place. I dropped the new coil down onto the new furnace after I put a thick bead of silicone on top of the furnace to seal it. I attached and sealed the new plenum to the top of the new coil. I think I lost ten pounds just installing the furnace and coil. BTW, I pre-piped the coil (so the pipe would be easily accessible for final soldering with Stay-Brite 8) and pressure tested the coil and pipe before soldering it to the line set. I have no idea how the installer got the original furnace, coil, and plenum installed in my house when it was built. Somebody said that it was probably installed before the sheetrock went in and that makes sense.
Not necessary to caulk the coil box. The amount of air loss is a minute factor on a proper fitting coil. May never come out again.
He is my type of a tech… good job bud
a real hvac tech!! Thank You...
Been enjoying your videos. I'd like to see a complete step by step on a condenser change out. I know it would be hard to film, but I'm curious of the process and I cant seem to find any videos on it. Either way though great videos. Keep em comin!
For real? Hell get a job in HVAC brother
I'm new to the field (under a year) so this just saved me a lot of hassle especially since I might have to change out 2 tomorrow 😡
Nice repair John 💪 I wouldn't of replaced the drier either. A quick in & out with a vacuum all good to go! Good to see you upload a video. Hope to see you go live soon 👍
Thanks for taking us along, good work.
Good job John, you did great
I like the way you show your work the same way that 99% of the techs do, and dont give a shit of the opinion of 1% youtube police 😂👍
The vacuum takes care of the air in the line and drier. Good job 👏🏽
Can you supply me a part number for a liquid line filter drier that removes air?
I'll save you some time brother. You won't find one
John, please provide more videos, and get back to the hangouts. Miss ya brother
What size piston did you use?
Good job. Really there’s no need to change the filter dryer if one of the unit has it been exposed alarm. The time to the compressor didn’t burn out through there’s no signs of contaminants. changing the filter dryer would just be extra without real reason in this case
This was a great video. I learned something
No disrespect. All in fun keep up the great work and the videos.
Umm no dude.
Holy crap
If the txv goes bad, doesn't the quality of the coolant become suspect? So putting in a new dryer would make sense unless you were in a hurry or something?
Great video and thanks for sharing very informative n helpful .👍👍
Nicely done!!! Good work!
Great video! What's the best piston size / part number for a 1.5 ton Bard wallmount R-22?
Thank you so much. This video is really helpful..
Does it matter which brand piston you use or are most of them interchangeable with TXV's?
Ok! Keeping it real.
What size piston do you use? Do you have a chart for different tonnages?
Great video showing what not to do!! I cant believe there’s people out there doing such a hackery . I would be worried putting this on UA-cam. Ouch
Did I not see a nitrogen pressure test?
If you trust your work enough you can skip nitrogen test!
He held vacuum before releasing refrigerant. Ultimately if micron reading don’t rise there’s no leak
What about in cool weather? Won’t the piston over fill with liquid and that might reach the compressor ?
Great video John, thank you for passing along the knowledge.
piston came with the airhander optional bag or you cross referenced it? nice work
I always put the caps on the service valves while pulling a vacuum. Don’t trust the O rings alone.
Good job. The only critique I would add is, you skipped a step... namely pressurizing the system for leaks, to check your work. We’re not perfect and sometimes things don’t close up the way we would like them to. even if it’s only 40 psi ( because of the pump down ) and some bubbles. This way, if the service valve leaked, it still couldn’t leak into the refrigerant side because of the higher pressure.
What piston size did you use ? I believe you said it's a 3ton 410a. Right?
OK, I am still new to this, so please answer me this. I picked up a Evap coil by ADP. The liquid line attaches to the front of the case...and has a piston in it, but the unit is for r22 or 410a and has a cap on it. At 12:00 on your video you have what I do on the right or bottom side, but I can not find anything to connect to it...i.e 3/8 copper tubing to your left side or top. What kind of connector is that on the left or top side? Under the cap on mine is the white seal, then piston, and then another small white seal. I spent the better part of an hour going to every fitting I could at Lowes...so they do not have it. I recon that the threads are for a TXV valve...so what else has those threads??? This is obviously not a flared or compression connection. The threads appear to be (exact measurements here...) .75 OD of the threads, and the flat is .675 and the threads appear to be 24 Tpi. Help, maybe?
How do you size the piston or are they a fixed size orifice?
How did you determine what size piston to use?
Evening John, while I understand location makes all the difference; what do you typically charge to replace HVAC TXV? Local companies are quoting between $1800 and $2000. Thanks in advance.
That's how much we charge in the bay area
That’s insane. A txv is about 100 dollars. 2 hours of labor. No way it should be over a 500 dollar job unless u lost all your refrigerant.
@@brettr5188Man they’ll charge you $1000 for a capacitor…
How do you choose a piston for each brand? I am starting in the field.
Hi ! Excellent videos thanks 🙏🏻 1 question if I want to work with the home insurance to they send me jobs how can I do that I don’t know if you can answer this but thanks for your videos again
Great video thank you!
What kinda core remover tool did you use to put on that core in the air handler? And could you talk about the widow maker?
How do you know what piston size use if the manufacturer only references to replace only for another TXV???
凸
Good job John.
Ever think why the txv went bad, a piston may have less parts but it cant control the heat load, how about doing a proper evacuation and install a txv properly, and if there are noncondensables in the system or coming from the dryer, now the piston will be blocked
Learned a lot. Thanks
Good to know
John...do you had a situation to remove the TXV with idea to replace it with piston but there has no space for it ???
Interesting...
Where's the new piston?
How did you choose the right size?
Be aware that when you jump power using the equipment ground as a return, everything bonded now has return current on it.
i have done it myself when there is no alternative, just be aware of what your doing.
Thank you again nice video how do you take the power from the 220 to 110 what do you do or is there a device I can buy
One leg on a hot wire the other on the ground to act as the neutral
Good job, John
Efficiency vs reliability. Which would choose?
I didn't see a lock-off valve on your micron gauge. How did you remove it without getting a little air in system?
i like your style
Good stuff, John.
7/16" open wrench on that equalizer does the trick with a 5/8" open for the nut
Or 2 crescent wrenches
how about pressurizing with nitrogen before the vacuum?
You can detect leaks with vacuum
What’s the size of the brass cap you installed over the schrader? Same size as the high side cap outside? Thanks
Yes 1/4"
Great video
its either the valve or refrigerant if both your guessing.return plenum is not air tight.
Israel, I have a new 410a unit with TXV and the low pressure line is warm. I called the pro and asked about it, and he said this is normal. Is that true? TF, Lafayette, LA
@Eric M I'll be there tomorrow and check it but I know the line was definitely not 25 deg colder. I'll bring my IR thermometer and take some temps of the lines and the vent temps.
Nice wrist burn bro
That's a tattoo they call the burner
Glad to see you're back uploading
How do you know what size piston to install
Good 1 John ...
how much do you generally charge to change the txv to the piston if you dont mind me asking?
$800-1k minimum
About three fiddy
The filter drier should have been moved inside, therefore you should have replaced it along with not robbing them by removing a txv for a piston. You should rename your channel to Shade Tree HVAC
TXV sucks may be energy efficient but not cost efficient when built like crap and you have to pay to change out. Also this is some trash unit from r e micheal that you can tell was not purged bc of the burn mark up the door fuck a TXV and a filter dryer get in get out it’s trashed anyway from the start
You Don't use Nylog on the connections where there may be a possibility for a leak?
That is a great suggestion I love nylog works great on flared mini split connections!!
Hey body are you and your family okay with the huracán?
God bless you!
that loose low voltage wire would've driven me nuts lol
Shows the hackery of the original installer.
Excellent video! Are the pistons based on tonnage? If anyone has a part number for a piston that works on a 4 ton (York-XAHC48FXXN1A coil) heat pump, please let me know. It ships without a TXV and I'm having a ridiculously hard time sourcing the correct one.
Drops teflon ring in water, inserts into piston body..lmao. just kidding man. Enjoyed this video. Never went from a txv to a piston. Usually the other way around. Can't go wrong with a fixed orifice though
Wow, how to drop efficiency and kill the warranty at the same time...
😂😂😂
Hmm let's see your qualifications are you make videos on UA-cam working on residential systems with from one video shows that you lack the knowledge and expertise to perform repairs correctly.
My qualifications are working on ammonia and synthetic refrigerant refrigeration systems that have miles of piping and complex control systems. What you did in this video is kill the efficiency of the unit and modify it outside of its design by the manufacturer. All in the name of making it easier for you to work on because you lack the common understanding of a txv system. Your probably could have used a manufacturer approved oil treatment to the issue. Even then replacing the txv is not that complicated and time consuming. Given the lack skill with brazing on the install it's safe to presume the installer did not flow nitrogen. With POE oil being hydroscopic its best to install a new filter drier after open a system for repair that's cheap insurance. You can laugh or you can grow with times thought txvs have been around longer than I have been alive so I don't think that's your problem.
👏🏻👏🏻
@@johnisraelhvac2019 😂😂😂😂
It was just need few pounds of juice..
You know what you are doing.
Nice video why would I change it to a piston just wondering
I have no clue why anyone would prefer a piston over a TXV.
@@rpsmith so you are clueless?
@@rpsmith I have some rental properties, 30 to 40-year-old houses. Some have Bryant air handle units those have piston flow raters. I bought those properties back then in 1995 and 1996. One Bryant unit condenser has a Master Valves; metal seal valved is closed after you charged the system. I have never lost any freon in the system the last 12 years. No problem with piston rater for the air handler for 27 years, of course never replace it yet on PSC motor inside the air handler. The other condenser is RUUD. It does not have master valves at the condenser, have to charge the freon every 3 years. Inside unit is Bryant; 27 years old, just replace the PSC motor last year. It costs me $125 and I installed it myself about 3 hours with cleaning up the blower wheel. All using R22 systems. You do not know how expensive is to change the TXV now a day, between $750 to $1000. Lucky, I do not have to have a headache with the txv. Now a day I have to change the compressor on my 8-year-old condenser. Your efficiency of your air conditioning system is determined by how much heat is removed from the inside that depends on how much freon flows in pounds multiplied by latent heat of evaporation of the freon. Other newer house I had to replace X-motor inside the air handler on 3-year-old unit, this pissed me off. It cost me $400 motor only, I installed it myself. Hand down I choose the refrigeration system using master valves at the condenser, sight glass, piston rater; psc motor at the air handles. If your suction line by your condenser is at 40 to 45 degrees that is the best to cool your compressor, your compressor will last very very long. Compressor for the Bryant unit was piston compressor that still working like a champ (27 years since I bought the house). The compressor for Ruud was Rotary compressor made by Copeland) 27-year span is a long time to see who perform best. Regards, Armanto. Mechanical Engineer
How can I find out what size piston it has?
How do you know what size piston to use did you call manufacturer or have a chart
Download a chart. 22 and 410a require specific size
John where are you guys getting these blue Handled Crescent wrenches from what is the name of that Crescent Wrench
Ross Flores Sanilac makes the crescent wrench Amazon has them Home Depot etc.
@@hvacshinobi8047 thanks brother I've seen norcal Dave with the same tool as well as a few other technicians.
Those are channel lock brand crescent wrenches. Have a small and thin version that’s great for tight spots
@@jphvac5725 thanks for the info brother I greatly appreciate it
what size piston?
I don't quite understand why you're measuring superheat when you have a txv. Supposedly superheat varies with the operation of a TXV. Or so a technician at Mr Cool told me.
Hey I was wondering if you or anyone seeing this happen before . We put in a brand new American standard and with a TXV anyways super heat was 14 and sub cooling was good , 17 degree spilt . Works and cools good . But a couple times a day out of no where the condenser compressor starts sounding crazy for about 10 mins than it goes back to normal . Tech support had no clue and we are looking at changing the compressor. Put the bulb in hot water thinking maybe it’s closing but that doesn’t take the sound away . Supper weird call because it happens so random . Went 3 times before I heard it lol any ideas ???
I would recover the entire charge, change the drier, evacuate to 500 microns and recharge with new refrigerant and see if that solves the issue before replacing the compressor.
@@mikee2923 yea right call. Could be restriction but you gotta backtrack to go forward on this one
👍👍👍👍