ENGINE REBUILD for the Oliver 1855
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- It's season 2 for the restoration of the 1855! The engine is on the stand and now I need to clean and check. In this I go over sleeve protrusion and get the sleeves ready for installation.
The lower block repair sleeves were bought from Hub City Machine Works in Aberdeen, South Dakota.
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That Oliver Guy
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As always, Thanks for watching!
Your engine kit reminded me of a joke. What has two wings and an arrow? A Chinese telephone. “Wing wing Arrow?”
I'm not supposed to laugh at that, but I did.
I got readers about every where I go.Cool video.🤓
Box full of snapon stuff like tap sockets
I was just thinking about these tractors when you would get started on them.
I was beginning to wonder. 😆
I thought I was the only one that pickie on how things went together. It's great to see you share your knowledge on engine assembly . Some people would just throw it together. Looking forward for more, I love building engines of most kinds . From turkey creek farms be safe n thankful
Thanks, you too!
With all the snow headed toward you, nice indoor project. Eaglegards...
The worst of it is supposed to be north of us, but it is also supposed to warm up enough for it to switch to freezing rain overnight. The American might get to work again.
So excited to see ya back on the engine. Thanks so much for showing us you are like a walking encyclopedia of Oliver tractors! Also, loved it when you did the tractor collection and plow collection tour. Thanks for taking us along.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the detailed assembly. Brings back so many memories and stories from my life in a WFE dealership 70’s and 80’s.
Hope to see that 1855 back up and working!
Me too!
Thanks Chris, for showing the detail. There are so many potential variances along the way you cannot get in a hurry and make assumptions. Helps make you feel like you did all you can do to keep it together. 👍
An engine only begins a good life with a mechanic that does the little details and takes the right amount of time to make sure everything is good. Nice work.
Thanks!
As a person that makes replacement blocks for different stuff for work it's good to see re taping the holes and cleaning block more even brand new factory made blocks need this
👍👍👍👍
It’s a right handers world
Thanks for creating this series. will definitely be watching them all. Will be putting a 550 gas engine back together soon, and great to see all that I should take into consideration.
My engine was also cleaned, and is the same color as yours. Why is it this almost florescent green color?
Oliver used a few different shades of primer. Tan, a rusty orange color, and what we have here, safety vest green. The stuff they have in their tank might shift the color as well. The bits of meadow green that are left are much darker than before.
Hi Chris you always seem to have valuable information to share. Thanks Michael 😊
Very interesting. Thanks so much for talking the way through what and why your doing. Learning so much from you. Thanks My Friend
Thank you for watching!
Very interesting video Chris, looking forward to the rest. Enjoy seeing someone who knows really explain things.
Thanks!
Good one here, I've done regular engine rebuilds without the sleeves, but none with sleeves, good information. Thanks Chris have a good Sunday and great week ahead.🚜
Educational as always Chris
Wow! Many years experience you have. (Yoda) glad you're back on the 1855. Great detail on how those 310's go back together. We have some 1950T experience that had many problems until.....we figured out how close those sleeves needed to be. The guy before us did it wrong! Kept blowing head gaskets. That and the 1950T dynode at 150 horsepower. Made pretty black smoke too. We could pull our 271 18' in 5th over really easy.
Yeah, 150 might be pushing the envelope for a 310. 😆 🤣 😂
@@ThatOliverGuyChris We pulled it back to 125. No more problems.
you meed bottoming taps to chase blind holes!
Enjoyed the video bro. Safe travels from a very wet NZ
Thanks!
What's the biggest Waukesha that fit in a 770 frame and not be total nightmare to fit ? And most main bearings on the crank bearings Gas . I'm thinking 880 . 🤔 Great video . Tool maker stuff great job. Great video.
There are guys that have put the 310 in there. It bolts in, I think it's just a matter getting the right clutch shaft , one out of an 880.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Interesting I have a parts 880 good motor I will have to look closer at it that one has power booster my 770 chassis doesn't .
Thanks Chris,
Very informative video. I do think your nail tech should be fired for your pedicure. 😂😂👍Boe
😆 🤣 😂
Details makes difference on how long overhaul will last.
I like that White in the background I would like to have one like it
Great information. A slow process, but that is what it takes to do things right.
You got that right, but it sure beats doing it again.
I'm glad to see someone else do this. I spend lots of time doing this not just on tractor motors I do it on every motor. I like to be very tight on all of them for height
Nice video. When is the next video on this coming? Thank you
Tomorrow morning.
I’m glad I didn’t need to get to the bare block with my project. I have a gasser that’s waiting which is a bare block build soon.
Which one is that?
The bare block build will be a 310 for the 88 if I ever get around to it.
@@bigfoot-wo3qy that's a Summer project. Summer gunna get done, some aren't
@@bigfoot-wo3qy An 88 with a 310. That will put a little pep in her step.
I always enjoy your videos. Great Job.
I appreciate that. Thanks!
Attention to detail is top notch! Nicely done!
Thank you very much
Still have the owners manual
Thanks for the update Chris
Didn't Arrow buy the remaining walkasha Corp. They made large natural gas engines into the 90s?
The way I understand it, they bought all the small engines like these and Waukesha still made/owned the BIG engines like the ones they use for ships and for backup generators in skyscrapers.
Great work!
20 volt Dewalt upgrade 👍👍
I'm liking it. I didn't know that it no longer uses a clutch, but senses amp draw and turns off the motor. Pretty cool.
Great work. Been wondering what happened to the 310 overhaul. Brings back lots of memories. Can't wait to see how your rebuild compares to the ones I've done. So far spot on except for the spin test of the sleeve in the block to make sure of no drag fit.
I hadn't thought of that, but I can still do it. This last week wasn't terribly productive in the shop.
No protusion gage ?
another great vid. you mentioned you were gonna put a link to parts supplier in north dakota on sleeves etc. which would have specs for machining block. thank you
Oops! Its Hub City Machine Works in Aberdeen, South Dakota. Google that and you'll find his info.
I keep silver sharpies around the shop along with the normal black ones as silver gives more contrast on some surfaces. Blue ones also work as layout ink on bright metal in a pinch.
This one is ready for the trash can. I put my good one in my pocket, and now it's on my dresser, sad and lonely because I keep forgetting to grab it.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris 😂 yup sounds like me.
we used a long straight edge and feeler gauges to measure heights.
I've done that one too. My straight edge even has a fresh grind on it.
Looking good Chris, I can tell it ain't your first rodeo! Where is your machine shop at?
In Jackson over by Omnisource.
You're doing a great job on that rebuild and your videos are great-- i just always thought though that the 1855 was one of Oliver's worst tractors ?
The 1855 definitely had its share of engine troubles, I guess if I had to rank them, the 1855 would be the 3rd worst, behind the 1250 and 1450.
Chris - As a Oliver aficionado , what is your opinion of the Cummings motor swaps
The Cummins is a great engine and makes for a good useable tractor. It's not something I'm going to do, but I can appreciate why others do it. The biggest downside I see is so many turn their Cummins way up to levels that are beyond what the transmission was designed for, so I don't think I'd ever buy one.
Could you post a video on mounting front weight bracket and how it goes becuase I have a front piece and weights for my 1850 but I cant decide how the front piece to go on
I'll add it to the list.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Think I figured it out but still not sure though. Thanks
Thank you for the detailed process! I’m working on a 310 for my 1855 and have never had one of these down to new everything. Did you pull the sleeves yourself or have machine shop do it?
I pulled the sleeves. Usually a block of wood from the bottom and a decent hammer gets them out.
I am sure going to look forward to this rebuild. Thank you, Chris.
Hey Chris glad your getting back to this project, I just told my brother in law yesterday thta you should be back on the engine soon. We got our parts back from the machine shop also, I did have to send the cam out to be reground it had a few lobes below spec. Our block did have to be line honed and the thrust main cap had the most wear. Which is typical I guess. We have been cleaning parts and getting as many parts as possible ready to go so when the cam gets back we can start putting it together. Is there an update for setting the inital inj. Pump timming? I believe the book calls for 2deg btdc?
No update other than setting it at 2 degrees btdc, that I know of. There's where I set the 1955, and where I'll put this one.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Sounds good. Cant wait to see more on the 1855 build.
Cut slots in a bolt to clean threads
Using a tap takes away too much material
Buddy I am going to mail you a couple of Milwaukee sharpies haha I think your sharpie brand sharpie has too many miles on it. I bought a package of those Milwaukee sharpies and they came with a three-quarter inch impact gun they both work pretty good lol
😆 🤣 😂. That one is pretty much done. Maybe I'll steal some colored ones from my daughter.
Is that a 1950-T or 1955 block. I haven't ever seen an 1855 with an engine oil cooler before. And if it is that is a cool upgrade. Also its the injetion pump set for 1950-t 1955.
Late 1855’s had oil cooler blocks
This is a replacement block, but this 1855 was late enough to have a factory cooler block. The injection pump is set for stock 1855.
Huh, I did not know that. Learn something new every day.
Chris I got a question I’ve found a 1955 with duals its in ruff shape and has a knock in the motor they want 5,000 for it is it worth that much? I forgot to add it’s got fuel fenders and nothing is rusted out
Personally, I think that's kinda high. I'd say more like 3 or 4 thousand. You're looking at an engine that needs replaced/rebuilt, so it comes with a bill.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris yea I thought the same
@@ThatOliverGuyChris also is the 1955 able to use a 540 pto shaft? Tractor data says not but I thought it was same thing as my 1755
I did my 1750 cockshutt in 1980 80 hp hard pulling comfy tractor
Is this a Waukesha?
Basically. It's an Oliver/Waukesha. There are some differences between it and a regular Waukesha.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I see I have an Oliver with one similar to this
Chris, right handed people use the left quadrant of their brains.
Left handed people use the right quadrant of their brain.
Therefore, left handed people are in their Right mind.
I've used that line many a time.... lol
🤔🤔🤔
Measureing counter bores full of rust u wont get an acurat reading