Fixing the Wobbly Frame on the Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer

[@802Garage]

Definitely shows some of the cost cutting on these machines. Great tips for anybody who gets one. Get rid of shavings and burrs, get longer bolts, some blue thread locker wouldn't go amiss. The way they tapped those threads into the extrusions is definitely a cheap solution and easily susceptible to over tightening. Those inserts should absolutely be pressed in from the other side so there is something backing them. That's a really poor design element. Gluing the insert back in with some epoxy or reheating it in as you did then sanding flat should do the trick, but then you need washers for the bracket to hold it tight as you used. Not ideal. I keep writing advice as I'm watching the video and then you do exactly what I was gonna say so I have to change my comment hahaha. Also, I personally just hate top mounted spools. I'd rather take up more space and put it next to the printer on some kind of roller. That last sentence was actually what I wrote when I started watching the video. I now see you cover exactly that towards the end of the video as well. I just bought a Sprite Extruder SE head for my Ender 3 Pro so I'll be doing something exactly like that reverse Bowden setup for mine. It's nice Creality sent you parts at least. Good video!

[@3DVibes]

Thank you for your input! The machine definitely has some strange design choices. Funny you mention the blue thread locker, I just used some on it. It’ll be in the follow up video, haha.

[@3DandTeePrinting]

Great words of Advice to SE and KE owners. There is a GANTRY BRACE you can print and install. Really Stabilizes that "experimental slim extrusions" framing. Been running it through its paces for the past week with the bracing. That's after 500+ hours on it before modding. Can really see the difference. The main issue with the SE and KE is how the gantry is held in place. The Gantry is supported by a thin sheet of metal Inside the plastic base. It rests on plastic holders. Plastic bends even if its just a few tenths of a millimeter it matters. If it was METAL to METAL like the older Ender 3's the Gantry would have been way more stable. Also, the barring on the RODS are prune to wear very quickly, causing play in the bed over long term use. Have also since switched to linear Rails. Smooth and way more stable machine.

[@3DVibes]

I just recently saw the inside of the V3 SE. I totally assumed it had a traditional frame inside the plastic shell. I was definitely shocked that everything is supported by a thin sheet.
I will be checking out these gantry braces, thank you!

[@RetroDaddyPH]

I'm trying to look fopr the exact gantry brace you are talking about, but there are multiple versions now, so I'm confused. Is it okay if you link the specific one you used?

[@3DVibes]

@@RetroDaddyPH This is the brace I printed. I printed the one that uses the LCD mounts so no extra holes need drilled in. There are a lot more options out there now that I'm looking again! www.printables.com/model/730007-ender-3-v3-se-gantry-support/related

[@BuzzingGoober]

Which brace did u print OP?

[@3DVibes]

I printed this one. Only the right side, which uses the lcd screen mount (no need to drill new holes). I'm happy with a single 10mm rod. It's definitely better than the few m3 bolts alone. www.printables.com/model/730007-ender-3-v3-se-ke-gantry-support/files
I'm hoping to get a quick video up soon. I know, I said that 3 months ago!

[@Wandering_Horse]

First thing I did was toss the original hardware in the trash. For the gantey mounts I went with 3x25mm screws, then relocated the spool off the top. I also pulled the nylon spacers for the bed plate and had some stainless spacers made and dialed in the bed hieght to ~.05mm total deviation. Next up is pulling the PSU out and relocating it externally and installing 1/4" plate steel under the bed to add stability. The gantry is solid but does exhibit vibration, I have ordered the accelerometer option to hopefully tune out any additional ringing effects. Ultimately I got this printer sub $200 so cannot complain...with certain exceptions but I am sure we are aware of those. Thanks for the vid 👍🏼

[@visrupt]

I knew those plastic parts are trouble from the start so I held out. BUT, I wasn't expecting creality to phase out the v2's, so that was a big L. Those printers may need a bunch of mods but the most important part, which is the frame, is solid.

[@user-ps2yg6vf5z]

i have same problem but i fix it just put heavy duty car windshield silicone inside the mounting before screw in the gantry. happy printing

[@arthurmoore9488]

Ooh, I was looking for something exactly like that reverse bowden mount. Awesome!

[@hugopnabais]

I had wobble problems, but by removing the spool holder from the top, I fixed all my wobbliness!

[@BelowAverageGaming]

Any update on this? I recently got this printer and am having bad luck with prints that are too tall because of the wobbly frame
I saw someone say to install a frame brace but I have no idea how to do that

[@_samtakoi_]

The printer has a huge drawback: the X-axis supports are screwed to the plastic body; they not only stand crookedly, but also wobble. If the author of the video doesn’t mind, here is a link to the video on how to make supports, a link to the files in the description: ua-cam.com/video/6jJuzklzp74/v-deo.html

[@samuellobo6242]

Can you make a video on the Spool Holder Solution?

[@narten2228]

When is the next video coming out?

[@3DVibes]

Hi everyone! I'm very sorry about how long I've made you wait for the follow-up to the Ender 3 V3 SE's wobbly frame! The video will be posted tomorrow (hopefully)! 2/7/24
Just in case, I'll give the details for those that are waiting for answers.
I straightened and cleaned up the threads of the aluminum rail profiles with an m3 tap. This helped a little, but there is still a lot of wiggle room for the mounting bolts. It's as if it was tapped for something slightly thicker than m3 bolts.
There's not nearly enough aluminum on the rails to take it up to m4. Maybe I could try tapping it deeper and using 25mm bolts. Not sure how much stability this would add though.
Creality Support sent me replacement parts: 2 vertical profiles, lead screw bracket, 6 14mm m3 mounting bolts and 2 replacement PCB boards for the hotend assembly (as a bonus gift).
I put the new parts on. The frame is still a little bit wobbly, but better than before. The new profiles' threading also left a bit of play for the mounting bolts but not nearly as bad. I think the movement and vibrations make the bolts tear up the aluminum over time.
What I did to improve my Ender 3 V3 SE…
Switched mounting bolts from the 14mm to 16mm. Two bolts come up through an openly visible area on right profile, I used 18mm bolts for them. The other bolts might interfere with the plastic lead screw brackets (maybe file down the corners to clear space?)
I tried 20mm bolts, but they come up against the end of the threads and didn't want to risk losing any gripping power.
My biggest recommendation is to get the spool off the top ASAP. Here is a filament guide as an example: www.printables.com/model/710932-ender-3-v3-se-filament-guide
I will have more details in the video tomorrow! (Pretty sure tomorrow!)

[@abyissac526]

do you know why ender 3 v3 se y axis motor is stuttering a lot at high speeds and the whole print is getting layer shifted

[@gameaddict6969]

Do i really need a bodem tube? Im thinking it doesn't come with one nor does any suggest i get one. With everything stock im sure its not necessary right?

[@SCIPSCON010]

Checkout the metal bracket(the backbone) under the plastic housing and use the biggest alankey that crealty supplied? mine was loose like 75% of the rest of screws😂

[@John-td9cp]

I have two ender 3 v3 se and they both needed a firmware upgrade after which they work great. Also the included beds need a really good clean each time.

[@user-dc3pd7us6e]

Thank you SO much for making this video. This is insanely bad even for creality.

[@3DVibes]

Thanks for watching! Creality put in a lot of cool features, but the corners they cut on the frame hit really hard.

[@user-dc3pd7us6e]

@@3DVibes and the PTFE lined heatbreak is inexcusable for new printer in 2023

[@illudedCeption]

1:00 get all thread and run it out the top and use a nut on both ends if possible, i might do the same as my KE arrives

[@gerhardbotha7336]

What actual influence did this have on the prints. Mine has no play, but I can see how it can develop if you assemble it a bit meh or if you handle it roughly. I do plan to beef it up soon. Just got it today

[@Dalroth]

Oof. This is why I'm very skeptical that I'll ever purchase another creality printer. Wow.

[@nurfirmansyah7593]

Let me just sitting here waiting for the 2nd part.

[@EE-ou4pc]

What did you use to file the bottom?

[@alexanderzawydiwski9534]

This problem is even worse and more noticeable on the Ender 3 v3 KE

[@SCIPSCON010]

hi, checkout if all screws are thight, also check the backbone bracket under the hood, i had to use all allankeys that where supplied,😉

[@MaradoPlays]

Can you share the files for the filament guiding pieces you mention around 3:57? as well as the the filament "Mount"(?) you show in that timeframe as well?

[@OleksiyS]

This assembly killing everything about this machine, one day not a single layer was sticking on mine i spent like 5 solid days to find the issue, frame was far away from square. Since mine ender working almost 24/7 it needs periodical re-aligment and re-leveling. If frame gonna die it's just simply a pile of horse dung. Hey, but 200$ is 200$ buck right? Btw heat inserting on those machines sometimes not welded and sometimes just missing.

[@falwiuhf]

My first machine was a creality ender 3. Really put me off of liking 3d printing as the project was the printer. This video showed me that they haven't improved much in 4-5 years since.

[@kouta928]

Not at all, it's a world's difference from the original ender 3, he's just improving some QC issues since it's quite an early launch model, but nowadays with a ender 3 v3 SE you just have to click level and it's the bed is ready to go, hit print and you're all set. No more shitty springs on the bed or sagging in the X gantry since there's dual z rods, auto bed leveling with auto z height adjustment, and a new direct driver extruder that works fking great. I have an ender 3 pro, v2, v2-neo and the v3 se and I'll tell you that the v3 is a great improvement, awesome printer for its price! Wish anyone who had an original ender 3 and a bad experience could have had this one and have a totally different view on 3d printing.

[@Redspark77]

It improved a lot brou

[@3DVibes]

I agree. I imagine most people who buy the V3 SE can get it running easy, where the original Ender 3 had a huge amount of new hobbyists give up and return their machines.

[@Murgoh]

My first machine was a Geeetech acrylic kit and it was really horrible. Bent rods, brittle material, poorly crimped stepper cables, bare aluminium build plate that required masking tape, buggy control board, primitive hot end etc. I still got it working after a few weeks of tinkering and modding and it made usable prints (strictly PLA, any attempts to use anything else caused only frustration) though the Z wobble was always there and the print quality was very mediocre at best.
Then after a couple of years with that abomination (maybe 5 years ago) I got myself the original Ender 3. What an improvement, it was like night and day. Just a couple of hours of assembly and adjustment and the first print was perfect! The machine has mostly worked like a charm for me, just a few failed prints and some problems with the original bowden tube couplers, I have not had to level the bed except when changing something like the nozzle, build plate (I tried glass for a while but went back to the original) etc.
A year ago I upgraded it with a V4.2.7 motherboard and a MicroSwiss full metal direct drive extruder/hotend assembly and now it's almost completely silent and capable of printing TPU (which it does a great job of, with the bowden system I could not get it to work with TPU though it's always been great with PLA and PETG) and high temperature filaments up to 300 C.
I'm still very happy with my OG Ender 3 but a couple of weeks ago I got a V3 KE and it's even better. Faster, has automatic leveling, more advanced build plate (magnetic instead of bulldog clips), better and more sturdy axles etc. I never had much trouble with the manual leveling after installing stiffer springs but the automatic leveling makes the first layer just perfect, no problems with adhesion or release, no "elefant's foot".
And this is so easy to use, took me something like 15 minutes to assemble and maybe another to calibrate (which it does automatically) and I was printing. And as the KE has built-in WiFi I don't need to transport a memory card from my computer to the printer, I just upload the Gcode straight from the slicer and start printing.
I'll still use my upgraded OG Ender 3 for smaller parts and special materials but the new model is perfect for bigger things as it's so fast (and it will be faster when I get a 0.6mm nozzle for it), has a filament run out sensor and the first layer is always perfect. So in my (maybe unpopular but I know first hand what the first truly affordable 3D-printers were like) opinion the original Ender 3 was a great machine for the price, especially at the time, and the V3 KE is even better.

[@falwiuhf]

@@Murgoh Cool! I guess I could have done way worse reading you comment. My Ender 3 did work but it was just a pain to use mostly. WIth the motherboard upgrade it was very quite as well which is nice. I guess that leveling the bad and the sag on the z axis were the issues I had the most trouble with. Just general QC issues as well (which meant that I had to do maintance way too often). but considering that it did print well after is a plus. I'm using the p1p today. Just a charm. I work only on my projects never on the printer.
I guess a new ender 3 v3 with autobed leveling would do the same work today. Hope thats really the case for most.
It's really nice that the printers today are so good that people going in to the 3d design hobby don't need to be an expert 3d printers debugger to make it work at most price points.
I guess creality is a very good bet for anyone with a really tight budget like I was a few years back. But even for new people to the hobby I will recommend compenies with better QC track record even if it's 70-100% more expensive, just based on my experience. I believe it is worth the money.

[@joeszymanski3540]

I LOVED this printer for about 3 months... Seems like everything is messing up now.

[@3DVibes]

It's a really impressive machine, but the frame is just too fragile to print high speed. Especially with the spool on top.
And it seems a lot of people are getting their V3 SE and KE printers not assembled properly. Lots of loose bolts and bed rails.

[@dawber2111]

What size bolts did you use for the longer ones. I’m think maybe the longer bolts with lock tite might help a lot plus maybe the plastic bracket if there is a file made or if you could try making one. A hd one for pla plus or pro. Also having a proper bracket for the other side under the motor would help more too. Lmk what you think

[@3DVibes]

I used 16mm bolts on one side and 18mm bolts where you could see the threads.
I have been using blue threadlocker since getting the new profile rails. I'm glad multiple people have brought that up, I wasn't sure how much good it would do. It would help keep the bolts from loosening, but not sure about stiffening up the wobble.
A different bracket for the lead screws may help, but I'd like to have access to the actual frame and not just the plastic shell with heat pressed inserts, haha. I'm sure printable mods will be coming soon.

[@dawber2111]

@@3DVibes I was also thinking teflon tape maybe to help keep the mesh tight idk. Worth trying those few things then since new rails. I’m trying this weekend since I got a big jam

[@Redspark77]

Are m3 x 20 to​o long? @@3DVibes

[@3DVibes]

@Redspark77 for mine, the 20mm fit but was right up to the end of the tapped threads.

[@Redspark77]

@3DVibes mine did too, I didn't thought this was an issue, but do you recommend changing those screws to a smaller size again?

[@Factsfun-kg4xc]

i got the 3 v3 KE. overall a much much better printer. and not even that more expensive

[@HugoCesar206]

the KE and SE are identical in structure, only the Hotend and Firmware are changed for klipper, the problem with V3 is precisely the cheap material of the structure

[@Factsfun-kg4xc]

@@HugoCesar206 ist not a problem. I have been running the printer for well over a month and well over 700 hours. No hardware failed on me even once. I have also been testing it with and without a vibration sensor and both modes are fine. Sure it's not a reinforced steel construction but it's not priced ia a way you would expect it to be. Hands down you can't find a better printer than the KE in that price range!

[@MobileDecay]

Damn they sent you a piece of crap. My first one was no good. I got my second one today and it's a keeper so far. The first one had a failed z-offset sensor that started magically working for a few days so I thought and then it stopped working again and after that it never worked. Number 2 is fine though.

[@Hobo_Jelly]

Printer is cheap for a reason, no way to make it cheap and keep quality control to a high level. Fixing all these problems will eventaully cost a bit, or a lot.

[@maximkonechno8742]

Mine prints out of box, you just need to not put any weight on frame. Keeping spool on top is a dumb idea on only printer anyway. 140$ is a deal and there is no better printer in this price.