In my rush to make this video between classes, I forgot to do framing when threading! When you place the film into the gate, make sure the frame is in frame in regards to the aperture plate. If you fail to do this (like I did) you will need to adjust framing when the film starts, and the audience will not like that!
I didn't want to mention it, because I was sure you simply forgat to do while on camera,it and I didn't want to criticize gratuitously, however it is one of the most important things a projectionist must do every time the projector is threaded, and one that has often mystified beginning projectionists. The DP-70 eliminates part of the mystery, being the only projector that comes to my mind where the gate cannot be opened unless the intermittent is in "rest" position, but of course placing the leader in the correct position, and making sure whatever leader you are threading on is spliced in frame with the film are both equally important aspects. Thanks for the film.
I really miss threading films. I used to be a theater manager for Showcase theaters, and they sent me to school to learn how to use the projectors, splice films and build prints. I had so much fun! This was a lot of fun to see. I can't believe I remembered, as you were going, what the next steps were!
Nice to see. I ran these for a few years. I had a lot of work on them to get them stable and have the shutter timing good. Most of the pertinax wheels inside were worn out. You can see on your film the effect of the electro magnetical field from the rectifier when you start your xenon. Nice done.
I was a projectionist in the late 60's and into the seventies and just before the multiscreen theatres became common. Loved the job. I liked the Super Simplex and Simplex XL and threading a projector was super simple back then. We also mostly used carbon arc lamp houses which also doubled as dinner heaters.
Thanks for making this beginner video on threading a projector! I am just getting into 35/16 collecting and so happy to see new content on UA-cam since there isn’t a whole lot on here. Keep up the good work! I would love to see a extensive overview of splicing and using perf tape! But, I am sure anything is good too! Thanks!
Simplex's were great. Simple to thread, run and maintain. I started as a projectionist in the 60's and 70's before multiscreen theatres became common. Never touched a platter system. 75 years old here.
You should consider adjusting your lenses so you don't have to refocus between flat & scope. Your mention that the manual advance knob can sheer off is spot on. I always used the motor flywheel to advance the film.
As it seems to be six whole months ago when you released "How to Run a Projection Booth: The Basics" I am guessing that LNL is open / or they let you in the booth again. Dim wit here, of course, no audience! Nice to have you back!
Why are you hoping to gain experience in a profession that no longer exists? You could learn how to make Daguerrotype photos, or Cyanotypes, and you could conceivably even make an offbeat living doing that, but projectionists have gone the way of telephone switchboard operators.
@@gregfaris6959 There are still universities, historic theatres, and museum collections and archives that employ film projectionists, not to mention private screenings. In fact if you can pick up this skill I would say you are VERY employable, and only getting more so with time, within a narrow scope of venues.
@@clickykbd Clickybd, I think you may be deluded about how many of these positions still remain, and in particular about the assertion that demand will be increasing. I was a projectionist for over 20 years, working my way up from local movie theaters to some of the most prestigious 70mm venues anywhere. I moved on to bigger and better things, designing and implementing theaters and audiovisual systems, but for years I felt my skills could serve in retirement, as a lower-stress supplemental income doing something I was very skilled at, but as I observe today the depth of penetration of digital presentation I understand that will simply not be possible. I quoted a job just last year for a small museum, where they had a film that had been made for them years earlier, which they would present at certain times every day for museum visitors. They had had a scan made from the film, and they were asking me to design a new, fully automated digital system so they could finally remove their two part-time projectionists from the payroll. Institutional, industrial, touristic and indie productions are even more fully digital today than mainstream Hollywood, with most productions never receiving any film footprint at any time, and as new prints become scarce, older prints deteriorate from age, and archival institutions focus more on digitizing them than risking damaging them further by projecting them.
At 2:05 you indicate the film turns counterclockwise at the top and clockwise at the bottom. This was standard in the US, but in Europe, both turned clockwise. This is because the US standard used an "S" form in rewinding, with counter-rotation reels, while Europeans used a direct over or direct under configuration, with both reels in the same direction. The reason this matters, is that the US "tradition" is in direct contradiction with the SMPTE Recommended Practice for "Emulsion-In" film handling, wherein films are stored on reels with the emulsion facing inward, toward the center of the reel, to avoid the stretching forces of facing the emulsion outward, causing crackling and other mechanical breakdown of the emulsion layer. The US set the standard, but neglected it, while the rest of the world followed it.
Questions: 1. does that projector uses lasers instead of xenon lamps? 2. does it still use magnetic strips on the film to play audio or it uses digital sound system?
Merci pour vos explications. Nous ne faisons pas de cette manière pour charger un DP70. Il faut impérativement passer par l'entraînement denté supérieur. Ce dernier a notamment la fonction de protéger des sursauts de la bobine émettrice et surtout la fonction d'éviter toute vibrations du film dans la fenêtre de projection. 😉
Cette pratique est peu orthodoxe, et ne correspond pas au schéma de chargement du constructeur. En principe, le débiteur « F » fonctionne en tant que débiteur d’isolement pour le lecteur magnétique, et n’est utilisé que dans ce cas. Peut-il apporter une stabilisation accrue pour le film entrant dans la fenêtre de projection, comme vous le suggérez, si j’ai bien suivi ? La supposition serait d’autant plus convaincante s’il s’agissait d’un lecteur sonore (magnétique ou optique) où le défilement parfait du film est important. Il serait en effet concevable dans ce cas que les rebonds et autres oscillations de la bobine débitrice puissent se transmettre, si ce n’est que par le très léger « jeu » des perforations sur les dents. Dans le cas de la croix de malte, permettez-moi d’en douter, car les phénomènes vibratoires très violents induits par processus intermittent sont à des ordres de grandeur plus importants. Ceci appelle pourtant une autre observation plus générale sur les projecteurs Philips et Kinoton, qui n’utilisent pas de débiteur d’isolement APRES la croix, comme le font les projecteurs Américains. On peut douter de l’efficacité de cette « grande boucle » où la rigidité du film lui-même sert du seul amortissement avant son entrée dans le lecteur optique.
Not one word about lower loop and sync ??? -And by the way: Dp70 frame knob is never touched, if old projectionists run the booth... ;-) Greetings from Malling, Denmark, where DP70 ( no 1459 and 1473) did the job 1974-2012, until Digital was forced onto us. I missed them so much, that 1473 right now is getting inside again, hopefully to run some 70mm later this sommer. Where is Your cinema - and have You got the projector numbers ? -They must be pretty low with the small cranck handle...
We have “3” DP70s although one was purchased years ago for spare parts: 803, 806, and 873. 803 and 806 were together when they were donated to us in 1989, the 873 was purchased.
I only used a Norelco FP-20 for a few months. It was an okay projector, but had not been maintained well. I much prefer a Century projector or Christie projector (with straight gate).
Interesting to hear your opinion! Any reason you prefer the Century/Christie projector? I am aware that they were some of the most popular in the last 50 years.
The Century and Christie projectors were very simple in design. Both worked well and put steady images on the screen. I also ran Simplex XL's in a Ukiah, CA 6 plex.
Very good but, too my mind your intermittent loop was too small, not in all cinemas do we come off the left hand side of the reel and you can run 35mm 4 track magnetic film through the mag penthouse. I have run DP70's in 4 cinemas here in the UK and I have a pair here at home which are totally original. There are difference's between the Norelco DP70 used in the USA and the Philips DP70 used in the rest of the world.
I always thead on frame not profesonal to have to frame picture after it hits the screen. Also i have both scope & Flat foucus set so when changing lens focuse dosnt change. Nice video.
Yes it’s not professional! But I like to show new people with it out of frame so they can practice adjusting framing when needed :). Also after making this video and from other’s suggestions I did change the lenses so they were in focus at the same point, but thank you for the suggestion. Thanks for watching!
Your upper loop is 1-2 perfs too large. This isn't enough to damage the film, though. You also might want to make a point about not opening the gate until the machine has fully stopped, as doing so could potentially destroy the shutter (not a fun or cheap replacement). Otherwise, nice job.
Interesting, I was always taught that the upper loop should be in line with the circle object from the film gate. And yes, 100% agree should tell them not to open the gate until the DP70 has stopped. Sometime I forget what people don't know!
I was projectionist for many in Israel. Always, I knew that upper and lower reels must turn clockwise direction. I saw on UA-cam that in many countries the upper reel turns anti-clockwise. How come ?
Different standards is all! The rollers in the magazines even are adjustable on our projector depending on the direction! If we ran it like you did, we would need to bench the film different (cross-wind it) but it would work as well
Random question, if anyone can help. My guys will project a 35mm film tomorrow, the aspect ratio is 1:1.66 (they always project 1.85 and 2.39 stuff) they will use the flat lens as would use if it was 1.85?
It’s probably too late but it most likely is a flat lens. The aspect ratio is more to do with the aperture plate, with the lenses being wether or not the film was filmed with an anamorphic lens. Easiest way to tell is if the picture looks distorted or not. If it is, it’s the wrong lens
@@KyleMiko I think it depends a bit on the theatre/screen/masking setup. If you try the 166 with a flat lens and the image spills onto unmovable masking (or masking that doesn't move far enough), then that aspect needs it's own lens. It will be more common with 133/137 which use the full height of the frame. Our theatre has movable top and sides, but we also have a curved proscenium arch. We have a lens for 133 but can get by with the flat lens for 166.
Oui vous avez raison! Mais, si vous donnez suffisamment de film à la boucle supérieure, vous pouvez utiliser le bouton de cadrage pour mettre le film dans le cadre à la fin
2 роки тому
@@KyleMiko Les boucle ne servent pas pour le recadrage (le recadrage est une solution de secours quand il y a un problème). Les boucles sont "normées", le film ne doit pas "claquer" mais avoir un "doux son". Le but est de permettre à la pellicule de s'arrêter proprement devant la fenêtre. Si le boucles ne sont pas ajustées, le film vibre et cela se voit sur l'écran. KWZ tv - Eric (anciennement projectionniste au Grand REX Paris).
Slow the hell down, it's very hard to follow when you go so fast, flying the camera all over the place and even make mistakes like to forget to do the framing first.
In my rush to make this video between classes, I forgot to do framing when threading! When you place the film into the gate, make sure the frame is in frame in regards to the aperture plate. If you fail to do this (like I did) you will need to adjust framing when the film starts, and the audience will not like that!
I didn't want to mention it, because I was sure you simply forgat to do while on camera,it and I didn't want to criticize gratuitously, however it is one of the most important things a projectionist must do every time the projector is threaded, and one that has often mystified beginning projectionists. The DP-70 eliminates part of the mystery, being the only projector that comes to my mind where the gate cannot be opened unless the intermittent is in "rest" position, but of course placing the leader in the correct position, and making sure whatever leader you are threading on is spliced in frame with the film are both equally important aspects.
Thanks for the film.
I really miss threading films. I used to be a theater manager for Showcase theaters, and they sent me to school to learn how to use the projectors, splice films and build prints. I had so much fun! This was a lot of fun to see. I can't believe I remembered, as you were going, what the next steps were!
Nice to see. I ran these for a few years. I had a lot of work on them to get them stable and have the shutter timing good. Most of the pertinax wheels inside were worn out. You can see on your film the effect of the electro magnetical field from the rectifier when you start your xenon. Nice done.
I was a projectionist in the late 60's and into the seventies and just before the multiscreen theatres became common. Loved the job. I liked the Super Simplex and Simplex XL and threading a projector was super simple back then. We also mostly used carbon arc lamp houses which also doubled as dinner heaters.
That is a fantastic story! I’ve only had the pleasure to use a carbon arc a few times, but man is it fun.
I was a projectionist right at the end of film distribution. Miss that job all the time, it was a great feeling.
It does make me said how it faded away. At least you got to enjoy it before it ended
Thanks for making this beginner video on threading a projector! I am just getting into 35/16 collecting and so happy to see new content on UA-cam since there isn’t a whole lot on here. Keep up the good work! I would love to see a extensive overview of splicing and using perf tape! But, I am sure anything is good too! Thanks!
Thank you for the kind words! I will be making the splicing video in the coming future!
Very. best projector. all parts good. Working. good information ,, thanks,,
Thanks for your video! The DP70 was my first contact with a 35mm cinema projector when I was 12 years old. :-)
That Was Amazing How You Explained That, Your A True Professional.
Best ever made was the Simplex carbon-arc machine. But I'm prejudiced as my grand-dad, and dad, and I ran them. Age 84 here.
We love our simplex standard/regular with a high-intensity carbon-arc, I can see why!
Simplex's were great. Simple to thread, run and maintain. I started as a projectionist in the 60's and 70's before multiscreen theatres became common. Never touched a platter system. 75 years old here.
This is very interesting, as I always wondered what the set up looked like and how it ran. Thanks for the upload.
Nice demo. Thanks for this video.
You should consider adjusting your lenses so you don't have to refocus between flat & scope. Your mention that the manual advance knob can sheer off is spot on. I always used the motor flywheel to advance the film.
Thanks for the tip! And yeah there are not many flaws with the DP70, but using the flywheel is always the best way to advance!
This is awesome. How does the change over work?
As it seems to be six whole months ago when you released "How to Run a Projection Booth: The Basics" I am guessing that LNL is open / or they let you in the booth again. Dim wit here, of course, no audience! Nice to have you back!
Wow you are good!
Very intresting video, well presented, please keep up the good work.
hoping to get more experience as a projectionist and this video helped a ton! very concise and easy to follow
Glad I could help! Is there any type of videos you would like?
Why are you hoping to gain experience in a profession that no longer exists? You could learn how to make Daguerrotype photos, or Cyanotypes, and you could conceivably even make an offbeat living doing that, but projectionists have gone the way of telephone switchboard operators.
@@gregfaris6959 There are still universities, historic theatres, and museum collections and archives that employ film projectionists, not to mention private screenings. In fact if you can pick up this skill I would say you are VERY employable, and only getting more so with time, within a narrow scope of venues.
@@clickykbd Clickybd, I think you may be deluded about how many of these positions still remain, and in particular about the assertion that demand will be increasing. I was a projectionist for over 20 years, working my way up from local movie theaters to some of the most prestigious 70mm venues anywhere. I moved on to bigger and better things, designing and implementing theaters and audiovisual systems, but for years I felt my skills could serve in retirement, as a lower-stress supplemental income doing something I was very skilled at, but as I observe today the depth of penetration of digital presentation I understand that will simply not be possible. I quoted a job just last year for a small museum, where they had a film that had been made for them years earlier, which they would present at certain times every day for museum visitors. They had had a scan made from the film, and they were asking me to design a new, fully automated digital system so they could finally remove their two part-time projectionists from the payroll. Institutional, industrial, touristic and indie productions are even more fully digital today than mainstream Hollywood, with most productions never receiving any film footprint at any time, and as new prints become scarce, older prints deteriorate from age, and archival institutions focus more on digitizing them than risking damaging them further by projecting them.
Nice demonstration
Can you show how you do the switch over when the reel is done. Great video. Thanks
Thank you for the suggestion! I would love to make a Changeover video in the near future! Ill let you know when I do.
At 2:05 you indicate the film turns counterclockwise at the top and clockwise at the bottom.
This was standard in the US, but in Europe, both turned clockwise. This is because the US standard used an "S" form in rewinding, with counter-rotation reels, while Europeans used a direct over or direct under configuration, with both reels in the same direction. The reason this matters, is that the US "tradition" is in direct contradiction with the SMPTE Recommended Practice for "Emulsion-In" film handling, wherein films are stored on reels with the emulsion facing inward, toward the center of the reel, to avoid the stretching forces of facing the emulsion outward, causing crackling and other mechanical breakdown of the emulsion layer. The US set the standard, but neglected it, while the rest of the world followed it.
Yes you are correct! Thank you for the detailed explanation
EXCELLENT JOB
Thanks!
Questions:
1. does that projector uses lasers instead of xenon lamps?
2. does it still use magnetic strips on the film to play audio or it uses digital sound system?
No, the projector uses 3kW xenon lamps. And the projector can do either type of audio, including magnetic, optical SR, DTS, and Dolby Digital
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!!
Merci pour vos explications. Nous ne faisons pas de cette manière pour charger un DP70. Il faut impérativement passer par l'entraînement denté supérieur. Ce dernier a notamment la fonction de protéger des sursauts de la bobine émettrice et surtout la fonction d'éviter toute vibrations du film dans la fenêtre de projection. 😉
Cette pratique est peu orthodoxe, et ne correspond pas au schéma de chargement du constructeur.
En principe, le débiteur « F » fonctionne en tant que débiteur d’isolement pour le lecteur magnétique, et n’est utilisé que dans ce cas.
Peut-il apporter une stabilisation accrue pour le film entrant dans la fenêtre de projection, comme vous le suggérez, si j’ai bien suivi ?
La supposition serait d’autant plus convaincante s’il s’agissait d’un lecteur sonore (magnétique ou optique) où le défilement parfait du film est important. Il serait en effet concevable dans ce cas que les rebonds et autres oscillations de la bobine débitrice puissent se transmettre, si ce n’est que par le très léger « jeu » des perforations sur les dents.
Dans le cas de la croix de malte, permettez-moi d’en douter, car les phénomènes vibratoires très violents induits par processus intermittent sont à des ordres de grandeur plus importants.
Ceci appelle pourtant une autre observation plus générale sur les projecteurs Philips et Kinoton, qui n’utilisent pas de débiteur d’isolement APRES la croix, comme le font les projecteurs Américains. On peut douter de l’efficacité de cette « grande boucle » où la rigidité du film lui-même sert du seul amortissement avant son entrée dans le lecteur optique.
Not one word about lower loop and sync ??? -And by the way: Dp70 frame knob is never touched, if old projectionists run the booth... ;-) Greetings from Malling, Denmark, where DP70 ( no 1459 and 1473) did the job 1974-2012, until Digital was forced onto us. I missed them so much, that 1473 right now is getting inside again, hopefully to run some 70mm later this sommer.
Where is Your cinema - and have You got the projector numbers ? -They must be pretty low with the small cranck handle...
We have “3” DP70s although one was purchased years ago for spare parts: 803, 806, and 873. 803 and 806 were together when they were donated to us in 1989, the 873 was purchased.
I only used a Norelco FP-20 for a few months. It was an okay projector, but had not been maintained well. I much prefer a Century projector or Christie projector (with straight gate).
Interesting to hear your opinion! Any reason you prefer the Century/Christie projector? I am aware that they were some of the most popular in the last 50 years.
The Century and Christie projectors were very simple in design. Both worked well and put steady images on the screen. I also ran Simplex XL's in a Ukiah, CA 6 plex.
Wow! Very interesting!
Great video ❤
good job
Very good but, too my mind your intermittent loop was too small, not in all cinemas do we come off the left hand side of the reel and you can run 35mm 4 track magnetic film through the mag penthouse. I have run DP70's in 4 cinemas here in the UK and I have a pair here at home which are totally original. There are difference's between the Norelco DP70 used in the USA and the Philips DP70 used in the rest of the world.
Our intermittent loop is actually correct based on our Kinoton sound reader! It changed the loop size as the loop is moved down
Did someone put a color gel behind the arc view screen on your Christie lamphouses? I've never seen it reddish like that.
Not that I am aware of! Possibly a different model/revision? Both lamphouses are like this; but we are getting replacement lamphouses soon!
sir ..please explain the mechanism for adjusting the angular velocity of the take up roll
The speed of the take-up reel is should generally just pull on the film with not too much force. What seems to be the issue?
@@KyleMiko but how to adjust the angular velocity when the spool is empty and the spool is full
Velocity is not calculated or adjusted. The adjustment made is tension, which is adjusted by a simple slip-clutch mechanism and a tensioning spring.
I always thead on frame not profesonal to have to frame picture after it hits the screen.
Also i have both scope & Flat foucus set so when changing lens focuse dosnt change.
Nice video.
Yes it’s not professional! But I like to show new people with it out of frame so they can practice adjusting framing when needed :). Also after making this video and from other’s suggestions I did change the lenses so they were in focus at the same point, but thank you for the suggestion. Thanks for watching!
Your upper loop is 1-2 perfs too large. This isn't enough to damage the film, though. You also might want to make a point about not opening the gate until the machine has fully stopped, as doing so could potentially destroy the shutter (not a fun or cheap replacement). Otherwise, nice job.
Interesting, I was always taught that the upper loop should be in line with the circle object from the film gate. And yes, 100% agree should tell them not to open the gate until the DP70 has stopped. Sometime I forget what people don't know!
Wow nice video..
Nice projector..
I was projectionist for many in Israel. Always, I knew that upper and lower reels must turn clockwise direction. I saw on UA-cam that in many countries the upper reel turns anti-clockwise. How come ?
Different standards is all! The rollers in the magazines even are adjustable on our projector depending on the direction! If we ran it like you did, we would need to bench the film different (cross-wind it) but it would work as well
Random question, if anyone can help. My guys will project a 35mm film tomorrow, the aspect ratio is 1:1.66 (they always project 1.85 and 2.39 stuff) they will use the flat lens as would use if it was 1.85?
It’s probably too late but it most likely is a flat lens. The aspect ratio is more to do with the aperture plate, with the lenses being wether or not the film was filmed with an anamorphic lens. Easiest way to tell is if the picture looks distorted or not. If it is, it’s the wrong lens
@@KyleMiko I think it depends a bit on the theatre/screen/masking setup. If you try the 166 with a flat lens and the image spills onto unmovable masking (or masking that doesn't move far enough), then that aspect needs it's own lens. It will be more common with 133/137 which use the full height of the frame.
Our theatre has movable top and sides, but we also have a curved proscenium arch. We have a lens for 133 but can get by with the flat lens for 166.
Where are you from? What place? Which movie theatre?
How does the changeover work? is it automatic? or
Manual, we have a switch that the projectionist switches just as they start their projector/reel and see the cue mark
I miss the clattering noise of projector
nice
Bravo bravo bravo bravo bravo bravo
Bring back real cinema.high quality picture than cheap looking digital movies
Autre précision, toujours démarrer le film cadré. Cela se fait toujours au chargement.
Oui vous avez raison! Mais, si vous donnez suffisamment de film à la boucle supérieure, vous pouvez utiliser le bouton de cadrage pour mettre le film dans le cadre à la fin
@@KyleMiko Les boucle ne servent pas pour le recadrage (le recadrage est une solution de secours quand il y a un problème). Les boucles sont "normées", le film ne doit pas "claquer" mais avoir un "doux son". Le but est de permettre à la pellicule de s'arrêter proprement devant la fenêtre. Si le boucles ne sont pas ajustées, le film vibre et cela se voit sur l'écran. KWZ tv - Eric (anciennement projectionniste au Grand REX Paris).
👍സൂപ്പർ അണ്ണാ 👍👍
The lone ranger 😷🐴.........him good friend to Indian...me um spoke.....him got good watch ⌚ me say good job not B & H bad medicine worm gear ⚙️
Slow the hell down, it's very hard to follow when you go so fast, flying the camera all over the place and even make mistakes like to forget to do the framing first.
Thanks for the advice. Yes, I did forget to do framing first, and I was going to add that as a pinned comment, so thank you for the reminder.
@@KyleMiko No problem, glad you took my comment so well! Meanwhile, I will seek a place in my appartment to place a 35mm filmprojector....:P
nice