Another coolant leak! TRANSFER PIPE REPLACEMENT or BIMMERFIX? Changing the transfer pipe this time!
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- After installing the Bimmerfix a few weeks ago on my 2005 BMW E53 X5 IS (4.8L) and still continuing to have a coolant leak, I had to go through the process of taking apart the intake manifold and replacing the transfer pipe. I will go through the process of what it takes to change out this pipe as well as a conclusion of why I think the Bimmerfix didn't work what I should have maybe done.
If you want to see the episode showing the Bimmerfix installation, please check out this video:
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If you want to see the part 1 to this video showing me taking apart the front end, please check out this video:
• WHAT? Another COOLANT ...
I am obviously NOT a professional… just a DIY-er trying to figure it out and learn as I go.
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Thank you for watching!!!
Nicky
Great to see this as I was about to do the Bimmerfix but will now do the full job. Thank you
Good Luck! It was a tough project, but worth it!
Always go with the pipe , beemerfix don't last for to long, reason is that the coolant builds in the valley pan and the pressure will make the valley pan gasket leak in result because that's the next weakest link.
Therefore coolant pipe is better.
Great video by the way.
Just did a x5 coolant pipe my self today
@@katkiller50 1 inch copper sweat couple same shit..also pipe is double the work
I need one done where r u at
I would like comment , I just completed 1 of these, bought on amazon(the exact kit used in video), recommend to clean the coating off the end that has the 3 O rings(this side only) as when using something to press the shaft into the timing cover end the coating kinda seized the pieces together, had to remove it and wire wheel(lightly) the end and apply a little grease-tried grease first and did not work. this was a great help ! as well was you video!
Hi Nicky Carz
Really loved this video on the detailed instructions on how you guys did the process of changing the coolant pipe. Although it is a big job I don't think I ever seen a engine valley so clean (albeit the result of leaking coolant)
I have a N73 V12 which I believe is near identical process to change as the V8 models and will be heeding to your videos for guidance.
Thank you!!!
Nicky, I decided to replace the knock sensors since the intake was removed to replace the pipe.
Would just do the tranfer pipe. The Bimmer fix only addresses one end, and I feel it narrows the passage out of the pump.
great video, i think i would rather do the complete pipe, its just a matter of time before that rear seal goes , great job
Great video. I am trying to do the same fix on my 2005 Bmw 745Li. My question is did you put any type os sealant on your intake manifold gasket? And did the collapseable water pipe wored with no leaks?
Great work lady!
back seal doesn't leak , it can not leak its just stop metal to metal then rear panel gasket takes over between engine and gearbox, love the 7 series but they always spring leaks lol
Hi, i have to do the pipe repair bimmerfix dont work still leaking, but im living in iceland and my car is outside so i am wathing for summer to do the same jobe you dit, thanks for the wery good video info
Good plan! It's important to do the work in a comfortable environment, because you are going to need all your patience when doing this job! LOL! I wish you luck when it comes time for you to do the work.
Hi, Nicky great video I just replace water pump and thermostat on my x5 4.8is 2006.To my luck still leaking. After watching your video now I will replace the stent, but before doing that I will remove the vale cover to see if there is any water under it. If so I will replace the transfer pipe. Question do I have to replace the vale pan can I just use the current one but replace only the intake gaskets? I would appreciate your feed back. Thank you in advance. Forgot I notice to that the drivers side floor mat is really soaked with water can really tell if is ante freeze or not. Don’t see any sings of rain leaking inside.
Unfortunately you can't buy just the seal for the valley pan. You have to buy a whole replacement valley pan which will come with a seal on it. As for the leaking floor mat, I would check these two things: First, check the drain holes for the moon roof and make sure they are clear. Second, behind the pillars along the windshield, the tubes can get disconnected and drain down into the vehicle. It may look like the drain hole is clear, but it could be draining down into the car (this one happened to mine). Good luck!
Great Video....
disappointed no doggie in second part, but you did a great job, well done!
Do you remember the torque for the pan and for the intake by any chance? Great Vid!
Hello. Ive wanted to ask how is the repair with the colapsable pipe holding out? How many miles did you guys do since the repair?
We have about 20k miles on it since we replaced the pipe and it is still holding up well! Hope that helps.
@@nickycarz1663 Yes. Thanks for the response.
Can you share link to what kit you used for this fix?
I got mine on Amazon. Here you go. Good luck! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FEKY86/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fascinating, I just watched a few videos with you working on den N62 and I'm impressed. Here in Germany, if you have a prob with the N62, do the german mechanics in the car-services avoid to work at this car. BMW itself would change the engine (only mechatronics). In Germany you have everything to do by yourself or somebody knows anybody who can fix it with the N62. I drive an 750i (12/05) and I fix everything by myself. Did you already have that oilleak with the generator carrier plate? 😁
If you mean the alternator mounting bracket, then yes. That was difficult job. I didn't do it on this car, but had another X5 that we did it on.
@@nickycarz1663 Yes, that was a difficult work at the N62 in the 750i. I drive since many years BMW and also E39 but the M62 in the E39 540i since 1998 was the biggest bunch of.....you know 😉
Do the transfer pipe. If the front seal was so poorly designed, they didn't make the back seal better. You will be back fixing the job the right way at some point if you don't replace the whole pipe.
Thank goodness I have inline 6
Hello, how did you know that the coolant leak was because that tube? I have some white fog from exhaust, could this be the reason? Thanks and regards.
I knew it was the tube because of it leaking through the weep hole. If you have fog from the exhaust I would say that is the valve stem seals (that is a big job).
Where and why did you use a spacer when installing? Im in the process of doing this too
When you fully extend the pipe the spacer snaps into the grooves on the pipe itself. They are to keep the pipe extended once it's in place. Look at the instructions that came with the pipe. There should be pretty clear instructions there. Good luck with your project!
Has this fixed the leak? Is it still holding after a year?
Yep! Still holding up GREAT! I have not had any issues with it.
Hi nicky! I am currently In the middle if doing this repair. I purchased the same kit , but for some reason i am having trouble getting the pipe to enter far enough into the timing cover side for the spiral lock to slide up in its groove. It appears the pipe needs to enter further in on the timing cover side. I push it in and feel a slight "thud" but not a "click" Any advise?
It was very difficult to get the pipe to fit into the side near the water pump. Almost too difficult to do with just the strength of your hands. If you look at time stamp 11:04, you will see we used a channel lock or wrench to give us leverage in order to seed it further into the one side (make sure the tool you use as leverage has a plastic coating so it doesn't damage pipe). Once we got it in, the other side was easy. But there wasn't any click to let us know it was in. We only gaged it by whether or not the ring fit correctly. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
Hi Nicky, what a beautiful videos, so talking about leaking, How did you know the leaking was from the inside pipe, (it what a guess ?) or there were some symptoms ?
An other thing : i read that there is not way the leaking will happened from the back because the rubber on the back is not a seal but only a rubber bushing to avoid a metal to metal rattling noise, what do you think, is that possible?
ps : i really glad you make a video of this repair, is one of the most common repair in a 4.8 engine.
So how everything is going with the new repair (the whole pipe) so far so good ???
Thank you
Yes, it was more of a guess. I assumed that since I had just installed the stent, but was still getting leakage from the weep hole. Leaking from the weep hole was the main symptom. After researching what other BMW owners were experiencing, the inside pipe always seemed to be the issue.
I am finding out with cars that anything is possible. :) But I am not experienced enough to know for sure. After having done both, repairing the transfer pipe is definitely more of a guarantee, but it was more difficult.
As for how everything is going… It’s been good so far! No leaks as of yet. Fingers still crossed! :)
@@nickycarz1663 thank you Nicky, I just order the pipe, i will do the job in 1 -2 weeks, so what do you think is the part that needs more attention, any tips where i have to be more careful ? by the way i see you using a wrench torque, what was the torque for the valley pan ?
thank you :)
@@roxycamilo Organization was the key! Take pics, video tape, label... whatever you have to do to remember how you took it apart to put it back together. Especially the actuators. I "think" the torque was 7 ft lbs. but I would double check that. It was awhile ago. Good luck with your project! Let me know how it goes!
@@roxycamilo For me the key was organization. Taking it apart is easy, but putting it back "correctly" is more difficult. I labeled, photographed and took video of my steps to make sure I put things back the way I took them apart and had the right bolts in the right place. The gaskets were also a bear! The one in the front was really difficult to get flat. Make sure you take the time to get it in there or you will have problems. Also make sure the pipe is pushed in real good. At first I thought I had it in there good, but it needed to be pushed in a little more. As for the torque spec… I want to say it was 11 ft lbs, but please double check that. I have done a bunch of projects since that and my memory isn’t really good. :| Good luck with your project! Let me know how is goes!
So if coolant is inside the valley pan does that mean you have to get all of it out and install a new coolant transfer pipe?
If you have any excess amount coming out of your weep hole (small hole by water pump) then you might as well get the coolant out while you are in there replacing the pipe. Change the valley pan too. Use OEM.
Hope you dont blowout your back coolant pan between engine/trans! That always happens after this job.....then you have to remove the transmission for that one! Gotta love N62!
? did the bimmerfix stent Actually work before u replace the transfer pipe?
If so how long did it last ?
We replaced it after about 1000 miles. That was about the amount of time it took for the coolant to fill up the valley again.
And a question I got coolant leaking by the oil pan any idea where it might be coming from thanks
Unfortunately, there is an endless series of hoses near the front of your car. Because it is near the oil pan (that is on the engine side), I would either check the water pump or the weep hole. If it's the weep hole, it's the coolant transfer pipe.
Ok cool thank you
coolant is supposed to be in the valley pan or no?
There is not supposed to be any in there, but it is inevitable that some will form there.
Can I replace the transfer pipe without removing water pump?
Theoretically... yes.
i would just replace the pipe and be done. the bimmerfix part i had a feeling would fail. it doesnt seem like it would be a good idea or replacement. but it is cheaper which is why ppl buy it. in your case. you have a garage. so you can take the time to do the actual repair. there are alternatives to the factory pipe. i would either use the factory BMW part. or... the UROparts collapseable coolant transfer pipe. their part looks to be made very well. there are even copy cats of it with slight design differences. that tells me that it is a good piece. so i would use that and not worry about it failing in the future. either the OE BMW part or the UROparts version. personally the UROparts pipe looks to be of better design. it has to be otherwise they wouldnt sell it or it wouldnt be regarded as theee fix. use that and rest assured it will not fail. peace of mind has no price. keep up the good work pal. keep making videos. good luck on your repairs.
James M. Brown.
just watched the video. i commented before i watched. glad to see you used the UROparts pipe. good job.
Yep, I used the URO part on mine. I believe that you have to take the whole engine out with the OE part because it feeds in from the back. I was pretty happy with URO part and it seems to be working well for me.
Nicky Carz would the willing to sell me your old bimmerfix?
@@khalidcrosbie4874 I am so sorry. I thought I kept it, but I can't find it anywhere. I am afraid it got mixed up with all the truck parts and thrown out. Otherwise I totally would.
Nicky Carz thank you so much I appreciate you taking the time to go out of your way and attempt to look for it for me. I actually went ahead and did the same as you and got the collapsable transfer pipe. My car is a 750i same motor as your X5. Did the pipe permanently stopped your leak? I also ordered a new valley pan cover cuz I heard the gasket is not gonna seal once I remove the original one. Also is it necessary to replace intake manifold gaskets? I’m hopping I can get away with using the old ones🤞🏾. I go my Carly in the mail yesterday only to find out I have to pay for the app to have full access
Hello. Before doing this job do you have to drain all engine coolant?
We didn't. I would put something under the car to catch was does drain out though. If I remember correctly, a lot drained out when removing the water pump.
@@nickycarz1663 Thank you for replying.
How do you know it was leaking from there???
There is a weep hole by the water pump and it was super wet around there. Which led me to believe it was leaking.
What Torque Specs are you using for the manifold
Gosh! I don't recall. I would just google N62 torque specs for the intake manifold.
It varies depending on the size of your bolt. I think mine was M8 (16 ft lbs).
@@nickycarz1663 oh ok Thank You 😊
Hey Nicky what milage did this go out?
Around 109,000 miles
Dam, mine went out at 110,000.😊
Does the valley pan have to have coolant ?
No! You actually don't want "any" coolant in the valley pan. It should be completely dry.
That cavity under the valley pan SHOULD be full of coolant. That is vital cooling for the top of the cylinders. You should NOT have any leakage from the top of the valley pan or the weep hole by the water pump.
R u in nyc cause I need my done I have a 2006 x5 4.4
No, sorry. I am not anywhere near NYC. Though honestly, hoping I never have to do that fix again! LOL!
Ok thank you 😆!!
Transfer pipe.
Thanks again, and kudos for showing the mistake made on Bimmerfix, watching their video, they smeared sealer into all cracks around where stent goes, as well as on stent itself, so since you are working in the blind, using more sealant than you used was the difference as I see it. I wonder if just adding sealant all around without stent to see if that works without stent? Anyone try this fix without stent?
Thanks, FREE100KSECRET.com
I’d like to know this as well? Sealant instead of a stent, will it work?
A 1 inch copper sweat coupler fits with a little sanding. Costs like $3 instead of the bimmerfix.
@@RocketSurgeon540 cool, did you do this? Any stent needed?
@@nicktran939 I've done 2 with the telescoping pipe, and 2 with the copper coupler stent. All 4 cars are still leak free a year or 2 later. The copper coupler is very close in side to the inside diameter of the coolant pipe, so you have a very thin and strong RTV layer sealing between the stent and coolant pipe. I doubt RTV alone would seal without the support of a stent.
F Word, thumbs down....
First of all awesome video very helpful. I have same bmw 4.8is 2006. I have a leak I thought it was the water pump change it and thermostat. Smooth fix to my luck still leaking. After watching your video now I think is the stent that needs replacement. But before I replace it I will remove the vale pan cover off to see if I have ante freeze inside. Then I will now transfer pipe needs replacement. Also I notice that driver side floor mat is all wet I am starting to think ante freeze is going to floor mat no signs of rain leaking inside. I would appreciate your thoughts on this matter. Thank you in advance.