Restored to 100% fun! When I was young I had the Yamaha GT80 for a while, at the time my friends had an XR75 and the XL80. The world was ours and we never knew how good we had it.
Another great video, Mike. You are definitely much further along than I am on mine. On that rear axle, I was thinking, if you put a thick washer on the head of the axle side, and then one on the nut side, that should solve your problem. I'd love to know what the great Mr Wells thinks about it. Continued prayers for your dad and your mom. Thanks for the video.
@@bartgoins1782 Thanks Bart. Patrick says I have the wrong rear axle. The stock axle should be a hex end, not the rounded end with hole. I don’t have the correct axle in stock, so I’ll add a washer or two to this one. Thanks, Dad is home and doing well.
@@MiniBikeMikeThe exploded view on the Partzilla website gives the Honda part number and shows the stock axle with a rounded head and hole, just like every other axle used by Honda. The hex head type are what can be found on aftermarket webpages…
@@donsoule6411 the picture in the exploded parts illustration shows the rounded end but if you look up the actual part number on other sites that show a picture of the actual individual part it's a hex head.
@@southeastvintagecyclerescueAnother source to get some verification is to look at actual bikes, for example on “Bring A Trailer”, that have multiple photos of the bike. There’s a couple with views of both sides of the swing arm and rear tire.
Dish soap is a great lube for installing foot pedals etc. If I had to fix a tank dent, I think the traditional auto body techniques apply. At least that’s where I’d start. Bike is looking great. Someone is going to enjoy it soon.
@@ChrisHiblerPinball Thanks. Unfortunately, I don’t know any traditional auto body techniques. I’d have better luck cutting out the dents and welding in a patch. Haha
On using the EVAPO-RUST, you might want to view a few videos on its use. My experience with de-rusting and sealing a CT-90 tank is dealing with “flash-rust” after neutralizing the product. Instead of tap water, I used distilled water followed quickly by a rubbing alcohol rinse. Drying is best accomplished by forced air… by use of a shop vac, blow dryer, or fan (avoid compressed air as it may cause condensation to develop). The sealing kit I used included a zinc phosphate solution as the prep for the sealer. If your not gonna seal it, I’ve seen where some people use WD-40 as the last step.
Looking good Mike. Evaporust works really good. I’ve used it several times. It may help to put some drywall screws in it first and shake it really well. The sharp threads will remove a lot of the toughest rust particles.
@@billmatits8979 I’ve used “the Works” also, it’s 9.5% Hydrogen Chloride” (aka Hydrochloric Acid)… does an amazing job on rust. Then ya just have to deal with the “flash-rust” !!
You've got the wrong rear axle. The correct one has a hex head on the other end like a bit bolt versus the one you have on there now with the rounded head. They are hard to find and super expensive if you can find one.
@@MiniBikeMike Just another thought… a long with a washer/spacer behind the nut, re-drill the cotter pin hole and cut-off the end if you get ambitious.
Regarding the rear axle… I know CT-90s have a longer axle because the driven sprocket is attached to its own bearing cartridge that can stay with the swing-arm when removing the rear wheel. That way the chain doesn’t need to be adjusted, no doubt to minimize what needs to be disassemble/reassembled if a tire needs fixing out in the back-country. So, there is 2-nuts on the sprocket side of the swing-arm. The extra length axle allows for the inner nut to retain the sprocket/bearing cartridge and the outer nut is for removing the axle.
That thing looks like a riot, would be fun to rip around some trails
@@jakebell212 Hey buddy! Hope all is well. It definitely looks a lot better than when I started. I put trail tires on it, it should sling some dirt.
Restored to 100% fun! When I was young I had the Yamaha GT80 for a while, at the time my friends had an XR75 and the XL80. The world was ours and we never knew how good we had it.
@@things_that_click Sounds like good times. Growing up out in “no man’s land”, I never had anyone to ride with, unless Dad wasn’t busy.
Another great video, Mike. You are definitely much further along than I am on mine. On that rear axle, I was thinking, if you put a thick washer on the head of the axle side, and then one on the nut side, that should solve your problem. I'd love to know what the great Mr Wells thinks about it. Continued prayers for your dad and your mom. Thanks for the video.
@@bartgoins1782 Thanks Bart. Patrick says I have the wrong rear axle. The stock axle should be a hex end, not the rounded end with hole. I don’t have the correct axle in stock, so I’ll add a washer or two to this one. Thanks, Dad is home and doing well.
@@MiniBikeMike Awesome!
@@MiniBikeMikeThe exploded view on the Partzilla website gives the Honda part number and shows the stock axle with a rounded head and hole, just like every other axle used by Honda. The hex head type are what can be found on aftermarket webpages…
@@donsoule6411 the picture in the exploded parts illustration shows the rounded end but if you look up the actual part number on other sites that show a picture of the actual individual part it's a hex head.
@@southeastvintagecyclerescueAnother source to get some verification is to look at actual bikes, for example on “Bring A Trailer”, that have multiple photos of the bike. There’s a couple with views of both sides of the swing arm and rear tire.
Looking great Mike. I hope your father is doing better.. Always a great day when your new videos come out… Randy
@@idiot-proofgarage3739 Thanks Randy. Dad is doing great and glad to be home.
Good job Mike.
@@cainbeeping8480 Thanks Cain!
Looking Good Mikey. The Evapo Rust works Great. Looking forward to the next video.
@@mikelauer8352 Thanks.
Glad to see your back! Still keeping your dad in my thoughts and prayers.
@@ralphpitcher8849 Thank you!
Dish soap is a great lube for installing foot pedals etc.
If I had to fix a tank dent, I think the traditional auto body techniques apply. At least that’s where I’d start.
Bike is looking great.
Someone is going to enjoy it soon.
@@ChrisHiblerPinball Thanks. Unfortunately, I don’t know any traditional auto body techniques. I’d have better luck cutting out the dents and welding in a patch. Haha
I like motorcycles, and mechanicing. Therefore, I like this sort of video.
@@robertengland8769 Thanks
Another awesome video, thanks mike, blessings to your father
@@gerardkenny8408 Thank you
Cool bike! She's coming along! Evapo-rust works really well and you can get multiple uses out of it. Also, apple-cider vinegar works extremely well.
@@djantix1200 Thanks. I’ve not tried the vinegar, but have heard it works.
Sweet! Looking good Mike,
@@mikeonabike4791 Thanks
Thank you, sir! Enjoy your videos! I’m a big fan! Prayers for your dad and family!
@@bobandmaryw4336 Thank you!
Looking Good Mike !!!
@@HondaRay Thanks
On using the EVAPO-RUST, you might want to view a few videos on its use. My experience with de-rusting and sealing a CT-90 tank is dealing with “flash-rust” after neutralizing the product. Instead of tap water, I used distilled water followed quickly by a rubbing alcohol rinse. Drying is best accomplished by forced air… by use of a shop vac, blow dryer, or fan (avoid compressed air as it may cause condensation to develop).
The sealing kit I used included a zinc phosphate solution as the prep for the sealer. If your not gonna seal it, I’ve seen where some people use WD-40 as the last step.
@@donsoule6411 Yeah, I’m not using any sealer. Yep, it will finish with a coat of WD40.
I love the xl70s. great project. I hope your dad tgets well soon
@@jeffferguson899 Thanks
Looking good Mike. Evaporust works really good. I’ve used it several times. It may help to put some drywall screws in it first and shake it really well. The sharp threads will remove a lot of the toughest rust particles.
@@mikeb6431 Thanks Mike. I’ll give the screws a try, never heard of that one. 👍🏻
@ the yellow SL70 I’m working on had a cream liner in the tank and they removed most of that liner. Worked really well for me.
@@mikeb6431 I think I’ve read or seen in a video that Acetone may remove some tank sealers. Just gotta keep that away from external painted surfaces…
Not the craftsman 😱😱😱😱
@@Sgsl70 It seems to still be working, but reeks of fried motor smell. Hahaha
Try Works toilet bowl cleaner for removing rust from tanks. Its inexpensive and effective! Best wishes to your dad and family.
@@billmatits8979 Thanks! If the stuff I’ve bought doesn’t do the job, I’ll give that a try. 👍🏻
@@billmatits8979 I’ve used “the Works” also, it’s 9.5% Hydrogen Chloride” (aka Hydrochloric Acid)… does an amazing job on rust. Then ya just have to deal with the “flash-rust” !!
Look good
@@ChrisHamby-o4n Thanks!
Here
Mike have you ever worked on a Harley X-90.
I have a rolling chassis. Had it stripped down and painted. I’m just not inclined to finish it off
@@johnmiceli6688 Sorry, I have not. I’ve only owned or worked on little Hondas. I’ve never owned any other model.
You've got the wrong rear axle. The correct one has a hex head on the other end like a bit bolt versus the one you have on there now with the rounded head. They are hard to find and super expensive if you can find one.
@@southeastvintagecyclerescue I knew you would know. I also was pretty sure this one wasn’t correct. Looks like I’m adding a washer or two. 👍🏻
@@MiniBikeMike a couple washers sounds like a great plan.
@@MiniBikeMike Just another thought… a long with a washer/spacer behind the nut, re-drill the cotter pin hole and cut-off the end if you get ambitious.
@ I actually gave that about 3 seconds of thought, then decided adding a washer or two sounded easier. 🤣 I’m kinda lazy sometimes.
@ Understood,… with all that been going on you’ve earned some laziness time !!
Regarding the rear axle… I know CT-90s have a longer axle because the driven sprocket is attached to its own bearing cartridge that can stay with the swing-arm when removing the rear wheel. That way the chain doesn’t need to be adjusted, no doubt to minimize what needs to be disassemble/reassembled if a tire needs fixing out in the back-country. So, there is 2-nuts on the sprocket side of the swing-arm. The extra length axle allows for the inner nut to retain the sprocket/bearing cartridge and the outer nut is for removing the axle.
@@donsoule6411 My S65 has the same rear axle setup.
I use harpic bleach to clean my tanks out, not sure if you get that in the states tho
@@mikeonabike4791 I’m hoping what I’ve bought works, if not, I’ll check into that.