If space is not a problem, they have holders for the metal stamps. Or you can tape them together and pound them in sequence. Either way the numbers will come out straight and equally spaced.
Maybe a mm? You need to keep an eye on it, and the quality of brass, concentration of ferric chloride, temperature, how much you use and the amount of exposed brass. There are too many variables to say for certain. I just check it every hour or so to see how it’s going.
That's awesome! To bring those serial numbers up you need gilders paste wax, you just rub it in with your finger, leave it a while and buff the excess, it'll fill those stamped details right in.
@@joveee.g4179 I don’t really know. I’d probably recommend staying at 47% or lower. If you use lower, it just takes longer. If you went higher, it would probably go faster, but beyond that, I’m not sure what would happen.
@@catspawcustoms i really dont know the percentage of this chemical we are using because unlike the chemical you use it has label on it like you know the percentage of the chemical you are using. Here in the philippines we dont have those label.
Pretty interesting process, dude! 😃 It really turns out nice! Just a question... Did you ever tried to make a fire stamp this way? Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you, and I haven’t tried to make a fire stamp or branding iron, though with a thick enough piece of brass and a deep enough etch, I think it would work pretty well.
No idea, but it would be worth a try. Though, you have a laser cutter, you could paint the brass, cleanly burn away the paint where you want to etch and do it that way. Paint will mask the metal from the acid too.
@@catspawcustoms I have painted a metal plate and laser engraved a pattern but not sure if i am using the correct type of paint that will resist acid, some say acrylic or lacquer. I have seen a video where there still is residue on the lasered surface preventing acid etching even though it looks like bare steel or brass, they say wash off with lighter fluid or soap and water which doesn't affect the painted surface. I was was wondering if there are any up to date current active forums that talk about this method of engraving using paint as a resist.
@@chrisabraham8793 and actually, it would also be worth trying to cut the vinyl after it is stuck to the brass. My only concern there is me thing the vinyl or adhesive with the laser.
No idea, but it wouldn’t hurt to try. I think Wesley Treat - Maker of Things may have done a video on this with steel, but it might have been aluminum. Or I could be completely misremembering it.
If space is not a problem, they have holders for the metal stamps. Or you can tape them together and pound them in sequence. Either way the numbers will come out straight and equally spaced.
A good no fuss instructional video. Thanks.
I like this a lot.
Nice Job. Question, is this metal plate fire proof? Can you still read it if if gets in house fire? Thank you
Well, it’s brass. So whatever the melting point of brass is versus how hot the fire gets will determine the survivability.
Great informative video, could you please tell me what is the depth of the engraving after two hours?
Maybe a mm? You need to keep an eye on it, and the quality of brass, concentration of ferric chloride, temperature, how much you use and the amount of exposed brass. There are too many variables to say for certain. I just check it every hour or so to see how it’s going.
That's awesome! To bring those serial numbers up you need gilders paste wax, you just rub it in with your finger, leave it a while and buff the excess, it'll fill those stamped details right in.
What sticker did you use? Because the vinyl that we use dissolved when we alredy put the ferric chloride.😢
Pretty sure it is just oracle 651 or cricket brand vinyl. I’ve never had it dissolve in the ferric chloride.
@@catspawcustoms i hope we had that kind of sticker here in the philippines.
Sir is it important that we use only 47% ferric chloride?
@@joveee.g4179 I don’t really know. I’d probably recommend staying at 47% or lower. If you use lower, it just takes longer. If you went higher, it would probably go faster, but beyond that, I’m not sure what would happen.
@@catspawcustoms i really dont know the percentage of this chemical we are using because unlike the chemical you use it has label on it like you know the percentage of the chemical you are using. Here in the philippines we dont have those label.
Pretty interesting process, dude! 😃
It really turns out nice!
Just a question... Did you ever tried to make a fire stamp this way?
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you, and I haven’t tried to make a fire stamp or branding iron, though with a thick enough piece of brass and a deep enough etch, I think it would work pretty well.
Thank you
can itching be done on copper this way as you did on brass
Yes it can
Can You do etching brass for hot foil stamping dies... deeper etching and small letters and logos
Maybe, I’ve never tried it.
Can you used a laser cutter on vinyl to cut out your pattern.
No idea, but it would be worth a try. Though, you have a laser cutter, you could paint the brass, cleanly burn away the paint where you want to etch and do it that way. Paint will mask the metal from the acid too.
@@catspawcustoms I have painted a metal plate and laser engraved a pattern but not sure if i am using the correct type of paint that will resist acid, some say acrylic or lacquer. I have seen a video where there still is residue on the lasered surface preventing acid etching even though it looks like bare steel or brass, they say wash off with lighter fluid or soap and water which doesn't affect the painted surface. I was was wondering if there are any up to date current active forums that talk about this method of engraving using paint as a resist.
@@chrisabraham8793 you’d definitely want to do some tests to be sure. I’ve had success masking with a paint pen, which I believe was a lacquer paint.
@@chrisabraham8793 and actually, it would also be worth trying to cut the vinyl after it is stuck to the brass. My only concern there is me thing the vinyl or adhesive with the laser.
@@catspawcustoms Not sure if they do laser cutting vinyl, they seem to make laser cutting rubber for rubber stamps.
Thanks
Great
Do you have a preferred brand or type of vinyl and transfer tape?
Not really. Anything should work. I usually use a color that I don’t expect I’ll need. Cricket vinyl works well.
@@catspawcustoms which type of colour
@@yogendrathakur3683 it really doesn’t matter at all, but I think glossy is better than matte.
can i etch stainless steel with same method
No idea, but it wouldn’t hurt to try. I think Wesley Treat - Maker of Things may have done a video on this with steel, but it might have been aluminum. Or I could be completely misremembering it.
What is the clear tape you picked up the stencil with?
Contact paper/transfer tape
hocam senin ihtiyacın asit motoru çok kısa sürede indirisin
ما هى الماده المستخدمة في الحفر
ferric chloride - كلوريد الحديد
B|ro where did you buy does things like steel and feric acid
Amazon
How do I remove the black!!???
If you’re talking about the areas that are etched away, you’d probably need to polish them with a Dremel or something to get them shiny.
Ben the music
tell me acid or chemical name
Ferric Chloride
this chemical name please
Ferric Chloride, 45% solution.
how to ecthig stanless steel?
@@metaltrickssl5506 No idea if this method would work on stainless
What is sticker
What is chemical names
You can see it on the label on the jug in the video. Ferric Chloride.
Why you didn't connect any power Normally every video there are power supply ❤❤
Because this is acid etching, not electroplating. Power is not needed.