@@davidschexnaydre7012 When force is applied to the inner ring, it is transferd to the ball bearings then the outer ring. It is possible to cause deformation damage to bearings or rings, which would destroy the bearing. The goal is to move the outer ring so only the outer ring should be engaged by the press.
Love your videos! just remember when pressing in bearings don’t press on the center section of the bearing use The outer ring as the pressing point to reduce possible cage damage.
@@staygold902 I thought about making a comment on this, but decided that he didn't really press hard enough for this to be an issue. It was a very large bearing and not much force was used.
Did anyone notice how he pressed the bearings into the cases by the center race of the bearing that could damage the bearing right from the start always press bearing into a case by the outer race of the bearing ! Just perfect
Been doing this type of work for many years yes press the bearings from the outer race and a parts washer too all parts should be washed before you order parts so if there is any part that was damaged but was not seen due to dirt or grease debris you find it at that time. Yes replace all bearings with the fact that this had all that debris in the case. Yes put rings staggered. Assembly lube is a good thing to use freezing the bearings and heating the case great idea. Remember group, give this guy pointers we all started here and I always say to my techs when you were born could you walk? He is doing well and with good pointers from the group he will be a champ in this industry and hobby. Keep up the good work and drink in the good pointers given here.
100% agree but I don’t think he wants to know,I like you want to give Joe a leg up and pass on to him what I’ve experienced and learnt though my years being on the tools,and what we all try to achieve through his channel. He has a huge influence on the younger generation and he has the moral imperative now to show them the right way to do the job properly.
Part of me understand that you're always looking for the next project, so cranking them out quickly is important. As well as the 3 videos a week. Just slow down a little bit and think about the small details. As others have said, whenever pressing bearings, always use the outer race ( im not being a prick about it either, just a tip). The reason so many people are saying to clean the cases inside and out, is because when a buyer looks at a "complete rebuild" and the outer case looks like it hasnt been touched, it makes them wonder if as little care has been taken on the inside as well. Keep doing what you're doing. It's clearly working for you, just try and hone your skills on every thing you have a chance to.
@@brianmenzer487 If he makes more vids and people watch, then thats more profit for him. Take a look at the title again "I Rebuilt The Cheapest Broken Down UTV (Better Than New)" I dont think so.
I am always surprised you don’t own a parts washer. With all the dirty crusty parts i see you handle, as the man said,” I am sure all the metal chips are not removed with a shop towel”. Great channel!
Secret parts washer trick: You take a flywheel magnet, stick it into the bottom of your parts washer and it catches all the metal bits. Yes,. he needs a parts washer.
I could never work on those rigs as dirty as they are, OMG he could have at least pressure washed that and other RV's before tearing them down and replaceing the engines into the RV's, this was horrible, I grinded my teeth more when he put that motor in that nasty dirty muddy engine bay, cmon really?
6:04 Do you have a manual showing it’s okay to press a roller bearing in like that? You risk dimpling the races or the balls by pressing on the inner race. Ideally you’d want the pressing force to go in thru the outer race only (when installing) in this scenario.
Hey, thanks for explaining WHY he shouldn't press the inner race! Everyone else just points out that he did it. It helps people like me who don't know any better. 👍
I Ave always been envious of people that can take things apart and remember how to put them back together. I have little patience doing teadiuos stuff like that. Congrats. Great videos.
As several have commented, you definitely need a parts washer to not only clean the inside of the cases but the outside should look as clean as the inside. You need to also clean the UTV itself before putting a rebuilt into the space, IMO. That is you want to claim "Better Than New". Love watching your videos.
I have been saying the same thing for months now but I don't think he cares, I would never do any work on these RVs untill I pressure washed every parts of them.
@ed9157 Yes the press is for that but i've put the bearings in the freezer overnight and then heated the cases/whatever I'm working on and they basically drop right in. No need to press anything or beat on anything. It's just one of those things that you learn as you go along that becomes a little "trick of the trade" that doesn't hurt anything but makes it way easier.
@edd9157 it's how he applied the pressure always use the most outer extremes of the bearing and a little heat applied to the case will expand it thus making it even easier on your parts?
@@ar2043I worked a few years on an assembly floor building jet engines over 40 years ago. We had a heat pad for the disk and a basket fitted over the shaft we filled with dry ice. Then air was used to blow over the ice towards the shaft.
I was always taught to never press on the internal race when pressing the bearing in. It should be the outer race so you don’t put pressure on the bearing and damaging them.
@@MrJmattr3 OMG I know, makes me ill just watching him do that and not even care. Everytime I ever pulled an engine to rebuild or replace I always made sure the engine bay was completely clean and painted and all hoses replaced and wiring retaped and repaired as needed, it was spotless when that nice clean engine was dropped into it. I pride myself in doing a clean and professional job and the customer knows it was done right and respectively.
Never press bearings in by the inner race. It puts allot of stress on the bearing components. I use heavy duty transport socket set. They are big in size and impact rated. Then you can find the exact one that fits inside the case with no resistance but it only puts pressure on the exterior or case side of the bearing. Hope that tip helps. Harbor freight or our princess auto has the bigger socket sets available for reasonable cost. So many times I've used them for press. I don't think the inside has even been used.
And....here we go again. Spend $2,700 on some junk. $1400 worth of rebuild stuff and all the time.... But still can't spend a few hundred dollars for a parts washer to make sure everything is clean😮
@@keyper555a lot of people use an old domestic dishwasher for smaller engine blocks and parts like this, using parts washer chem of course or paraffin. Does a fantastic job the casings look like new.
a little lifehack for you is, Squirt a little hot glue between your lapping suction cup And the valve. It stays on until you're done and then everything comes off really easy when you want it to
I was just watching a video of yours from a year ago, where you were having trouble removing the exhaust, died from the cylinder. The next time you run across a problem like that after you weld the nut to the stud try shocking it with some water. Sometimes the sudden change in temperature will help in loosening the stud. I find it to work very well. Thanks for the videos. I have enjoyed them.
Gotta a question for those of you who know about motorcycle repair. If you have to split the case and replace bearings, wouldn't you want to replace all the bearings and not just the ones that "appear" bad. There was a lot of metal shavings inside the case.
Sounds like you aren't much of a fan.Im curious for real are you hear to just bust his balls or some other motive.Never can understand why people watch videos and then talk shit about what or how they are doing the job.For the record i do agree with the parts washer comment@aeroman5239
In this instance with a failure yes all bearings and seals should be replaced. But even mechanic shops will clean the good bearings and re use them. My preference if theres a major failure all bearings get replaced. If no major failure than only the certain bearings get replaced. Totally different for 2 stroke engines though
@@aeroman5239 I normaly give the owner the option if they are tight on money and I feel the other bearings are still good. It depends on the failure...something like this that was ran into the ground, I would say replace them all. If it was a "This thing started kocking and I turned it off"... Then the other bearing may still be ok.
@@davesplace1307Not different for any rotating machinery. If you have an oil batch lubrication system and there were metal parts that broke and pieces floating in the oil then all the bearings and seals should be replaced. No smart tech will warranty a repair without replacing all the parts. If it's yours and you want to gamble then you replace only obviously damaged pieces.
Yeah, as I said, you should have pressure-washed the engine and bay previously. Keep the whole operation as clear as possible. Not going overboard, just making it presentable and not scrappy looking. But I can't deny you do a great job.
Loving the videos, very thorough in what you do with great editing to be straightforward on what your doing to keep us the viewers engaged in the projects.
This is one of my favorite channels, but please get yourself a ultrasonic parts cleaner. With as many projects you have going on, you could have parts in the cleaner while you work on other things. Saves a ton of time. I don't questions whatsoever your knowledge on repair but the cleaner will help, especially for Carbs.
You should press the outer race when pressing a bearing like that… I did it like you did and wreaked the inner race. Not criticizing just hoping to help avoid disaster.
If you looked at the state of the engine from you outside you would laugh if someone told you it was brand new inside 😂 ... Love it when 2vintage uploads a vlog but 100percent invest in a parts washer for yourself 💪
With al the upgraded aftermarket parts on that thing, it should last a LONG time of service out on the farm. Nice job Joe, I'm sure it'll run like a champ next video! Thanks for the hard work man, Happy New Year!!
I think how many times you have to reposition the cameras to always have the build on film, takes a lot of prep doing what it is you do to impress your audience. Well Done, You make for a great educational shop instructor teacher, Very Knowledgeable Definitely ASE certifiable #1 and IMTF "INTERNATIONAL MECHANICAL TASK FORCE, TOP TRADE CERTIFICATION.
Learn a ton watching and love them. Also go to comments regularly to learn what not to do also :) Takes thick skin to do what you do. Most people trying to help you improve. End of day better to focus on best practices rather then focus on pump video. Long term better to have community of people not yelling about pressing in center for bearings etc… if I was you I would make a note to not do that in your next video. But end of day what’s the goal here make video for money or help people learn properly what to do. If make mistake it’s best to note that and fix the issue so people learn. If don’t fix mistakes or let people know and they don’t go to comments to see problem then this isn’t a teaching channel it’s a content with no merit channel. It’s just a place for people to zone out and run it in the background. The small fixes that have outsized downsides people pointing out in the comments would literally take you 2 min. Put parts in cleaner while doing another video, that’s 1 min, and press on outside of bearing case (I’ve seen you do it properly 85% of the time on many other videos and even talk about it and how it’s important to do). That’s 2 min to do stuff right.
Keep up the good work joe dont mind all negative comments you gonna get that all time no matter what you do. Keep on trucking id love to work with you looks fun
Listen, I’m impressed with how you fearlessly tackle any issue with almost any engine… it’s easy for people to sit and watch your videos and nitpick… I’ve been in Mechanic for 35 years and I really like the way you operate, you obviously know what you’re doing. Thanks for the detailed videos and good camera work it’s also obvious you love what you do which is why you do it so well. great job! Keep up the good work
I really have to agree with everyone that recommends a parts washer. My first reaction to watching the engine repairs was they won’t last due to all the junk that hasn’t been cleaned out of the new assembly. It takes a few extra minutes to clean the engine parts and another 30 minutes to power wash the entire vehicle. Will make a huge difference.
Yeah, no it’s really not that hard. When I was 12 I rebuilt a Honda foreman 450 motor (with 5speed transmission inside the motor). This thing was a piece of cake.😅
Thats a beast of a motor. Was cool to see the new parts that looked like real good quality. I thought the bore would have been bigger to push such a big vehicle but i gues will see! Cant wait man, thumbs up as always Joe.
You do a good job on rebuilds and don't get cheap on parts. That being said, you should find a local auto repair shop that has an "automatic caustic soda parts washer". They cost money to run and maintain, but it would be worth a buck a minute to put all your project large parts in for 30 minutes. Just turn the timer and come back to parts that look like new...and are VERY HOT. When our shop got one it improved the look and quality of our finished product and the time saving has paid for it several fold (but they are very expensive for a one-man gig).
Also Joe: I am not sure why ya'll don't put a thin ceramic coating on both the pistons and heads. It reduces the metal temps by around ¿¿¿° saving both seals and bearings from heat of combustion. You put the coating on then put it in a small toaster oven for a bit so it don't come off.
I'm impressed. Obviously there are people out there with the expertise to do this--and you are clearly one of them! I'd imagine a lot of what you know came from experience, but did you start with any training/education and if so, what? I'm also impressed with all the different tools and equipment you have (like the bearing press)--I imagine those are mandatory tools if you're going to do what you do, but still, it's very impressive to me! (I thought I was a hero replacing a carburetor on my lawnmower...I'm not worthy!!)
I just wish you were closer to where I live so you could fix my shifter lever....it gets stuck in gear....lol .....but I really like watching you do what you do, great job!!!
Hey Joe: First thing I have ever seen ya'll do I did not agree with. The crank bearings. Ya'll pushed on the center which pushes directly on the bearings. The bearings were not frozen overnight in the freezer and no co2 cooling. Anyone else would or could have ruined those bearings without a perfectly flat or actually pressing on the outer ring as that is where the force is applied. Don't mean to be a negative Nancy but you usually are very fastidious in your manipulations.
if you are doing all that.. should just solvent wash the entire case.. for peace of mind. Another great video Joe! is it me, or was the exhaust cam in 1 tooth off from parallel?
Great Video. Time to up your knowledge. First, you need to purchase a set of Telescoping Gages (these are used to measure the inside diameter of objects, from as low 1/2" in., up to 6" in.) Second a couple of Micrometers, and a Caliper wouldn't hurt. For what your doing the Harbor FRIGHT (spelling intended) should work. It wouldn't hurt to search craiglists, or face crooks market place, for Starrett Tools (Machinist Gold Standard for Tooling.) Third, you need to go to your local welding supply, and ask about "Temp-Sticks," a.k.a. Temperature Sticks. From what I've seen you use heat on, to "EXPAND A BEARING," I would recommend something in the neighborhood of 250 Degree's up to only 400 degree's. FYI Aluminum melts @ 850 degrees approx. When using a temp stick, if as you mark a mark / draw a small line, and it seems like kids crayon's mark, the part is not hot enough, soon as you touch with the Temp-stick, it should melt CLEAR & WET. Instead of using SWAG Measurements. (SWAG = Scientific Wild A$$ Guess, ) you should want to control your Expandgence / Contractions, to a measurable (via Telescoping & Micrometers) 0.001.5" to 0.002.0" Thousandth. Just some FYI, besides using your home freezer, you could also use Dry-Ice. In my opinion Dry-Ice, is better than the home freezer. I'll leave out the liquid nitrogen for when you really want to shrink something. Liquid nitrogen-LN2-is nitrogen in a liquid state at low temperature. Liquid nitrogen has a boiling point of about −196 °C (−321 °F; 77 K). How to tell when using Liquid nitrogen, your part has reached MAXIMUM COLD. The part will stop boiling, while in the Liquid nitrogen. DO NOT TOUCH WITH BARE / UNGLOVED HANDS. For you Valve Lapping, make a Financial investment in a BLUE or RED SHARPIE Pen. This way your truly not SWAGING the valve seat. Coat both the valve-seat, and the valve face. Cost maybe a $1.50 (One-Dollar-Fifty Cents.) The sharpie, is a way to apply machinist bluing, without having to wait for the real stuff to dry after 5 - 10 min's. I like the BIGGER Sharpie's because they cover more surface area faster. Just a hint. For Valve-Lapping Standard Size Sharpie should work just fine.
If you are pressing a bearing into a hole, press on the outer race. If you are pressing a bearing on to a shaft, press on the inner race. Never transfer the pressing power through the balls. Freezing the bearings would make bearing installation less invasive on the aluminum case. The cylinder should be scrubbed in soapy water with a coarse nylon bristle brush. You need to remove the microscopic pieces of honing stone to prevent pemature ring wear. I may have some criticisms, but I still enjoy your videos!
And I noticed everyone's trying to tell you how to do your work I'll just say I've been learning from you and I don't think you're doing anything wrong at all keep up the good work Joe
Have you noticed how dirty everything is? Thats not what you want to teach people you want to tell them that you must clean and inspect everything before reassembly.
It's called reality 😁 and yes I do see how clean the inside of the motor is I think he's teaching very well I love watching and learning about bikes and stuff if you want to complain about how clean the outside of a motor is maybe you should watch another video that's not based in reality most people don't have the expensive cleaner or tools.but that ks for pointing out that the outside of the motor is dirty I'm sure he will get right to cleaning a work rig to perfection.lol.
I love how people think now days.first thing I noticed is that no one can be positive in the world now just want poke at people oh look how dirty that is.lol.poke poke.. everyone have a better night.
7:00 with press you havent to push the bearing while pressing on the outer ring otherwise you can give it some play ? Good job, cool ..... full REV6 ! -Ü-
Good video, and i saved it because I have the exact same 570 color and all with a heated cab that I mostly use for pushing snow, never know I might need to re-watch this video several times if I ever need to rebuild my engine.
I can see the lack of care when putting the engine together ie cleaning the cases correctly or the way your pressing the bearing in. Guess your selling the machine..
Watching your vid and thinking "dirty interior" and "wrong bearing press". Look at the comments and see 4 million like posts, so I'm not going repeat. Keep up the cool vids Joe and more Vinnie shots, he's cool.
Genuine question - assembly lube doesn’t seem to be applied to the assembly, especially to the bearings… is that normal? I’ve seen other assemblies that seem to do it to ensure a smooth fit and initial metal-to-metal contact.
I agree, cams were installed into the head without any lubrication, not even oil where they run on bare aluminum. Other parts installed dry or dirty………
@@2vintage I like your videos and I watch nearly every one. I do consider you a good mechanic, although some stuff could be cleaner and personally I would have put oil on the head under where the cams sit……I did notice you oiled the cam lobes….but hey, life goes on……
Watch Fitzees Fabrication channel. He buys oven cleaner at a dollar store and uses it as a decreased before pressure washing. He's cheap, but has some great tips and techniques!
Hi Joe, love your videos, and have a great new year, only one critisum can you please jet wash your bikes and Atv’s before you build them, as it would look so much more professional, and as someone has already commented get a parts washer as well, just a suggestion. 🤷♂️ 🏍️ 🤷♂️ 👍👍👍👍
Pressing in bearings on the inner race !? Oh great job there . That bearing is spent ! . It's all perfect now though . MASTER BUTCHER AT WORK ! Repeat at your own risk .
@@NoName-qs6ei They may be fine and they also may have a lot shorter life span now... Why would you press them in the wrong way when you can do it the right way? Id doesnt take any more time, it doesnt cost anything to do it right.
@@soulis1000 Because the case is aluminum. It takes almost no effort to press those bearings in. It's a mule. Not a nascar. He's probably trolling yall.🤣 😂 😆
@@NoName-qs6ei Have you pressed bearings in to a aluminium case? Well i have and its suposed to be a real snug fit, and he didnt even cool the bearings or heat the case.
been watching your channel for some years now you have came along way your knowledge and abilities have increased exponentially,very nice work young man..
Not a mechanic but at 642 on video main bearing replacement l thought you needed to push on outer ring of bearing to not stress or wreck bearing itself am l wrong? Love the show. Thank you for your hard work.
Most bearings you are not supposed to press on the middle, but on the outside edges to prevent from damaging the bearing. No assembly lube on the top end?
What brand of gasket maker do you prefer to use on the case halves? And do you put it on paper gaskets when you’re building other motor cycle and atv engines? And do you put oil on the head bolt threads and washers prior to installing them? Thank you
All valves should be lapped to make sure both the seat an valve are touching all the way around the seat if it isnt the seats in the head needs recut , can't believe the halfass cleaning job on this complete rebuild job along with the just perfect mechanic work
Question for anyone when doing a full rebuild I would rather change every bearing but how would you change the bearings that you can’t get to the other side of? Is there a special tool? I’m no mechanic just curious thanks! And keep up the good work bud I love your videos they’ve helped me a lot in my diagnosing and fixing of machines! 😊
Not sure if the instruction you were following were the service manual or just the instructions that came with the kit but usually in situations like this with high torque values and steel threads to aluminum you should use liberal moly grease on the threads and the bolt heads and washers if any. That way you get topper torque and bolt stretch.
Just for future reference the ring gaps should not be placed on the pistons pressures points relative to the cyl. you want them on the pin side of the piston to ensure proper sealing. IE: place gap at 9 or 3 o'clock compress ring with fingers at 12 & 6 closes fine, now turn ring gap to 12 or 6 and once again compress at 12 & 6, you'll notice it won't compress properly. Same as in the cyl. the piston has all the force applied at 12 and 6, you can see this on old pistons that will not have worn at 3 & 9 but always at 12&6. Not trying to be that "guy" just passing along a bit of info. Keep up the hard work I'm rooting for you. 🙂 Edit: parts washer?
ive really enjoyed watching your vids as I plan on flipping bikes as a side hustle and wondered what your history with small engines have been? have u gone to school for it or just accumulated knowledge over the years?
Hi Joe, Don't let the negative comments,get you down. Get a parts washer before kids come on the Horizon. You and Vinny will be hiding,in the garage then.😂
I'm not a mechanic but I love watching people do their "craft"....the good ones, that is. I'm curious how many hours were involved in pulling the engine, tearing it down/cleaning it up, and reinstalling? Also how many hours of reading to do it right? Ball park time is what I'm asking, if you know? peace & love to watch this...
I came to make the same comment. Kind of cringy to see that.
Same here
What happens if you use the inner ring?
@@davidschexnaydre7012 You can destroy the bearing
@@davidschexnaydre7012 When force is applied to the inner ring, it is transferd to the ball bearings then the outer ring. It is possible to cause deformation damage to bearings or rings, which would destroy the bearing. The goal is to move the outer ring so only the outer ring should be engaged by the press.
Love your videos! just remember when pressing in bearings don’t press on the center section of the bearing use The outer ring as the pressing point to reduce possible cage damage.
I can't believe he did that. Rookie mistake
@@staygold902 I thought about making a comment on this, but decided that he didn't really press hard enough for this to be an issue. It was a very large bearing and not much force was used.
@@SantaClaw any force is to much
Bad ju ju.
Think he knows better, so why? Especially the crank bearings which make the most turns/minute and handel the most force inside the engine.
Did anyone notice how he pressed the bearings into the cases by the center race of the bearing that could damage the bearing right from the start always press bearing into a case by the outer race of the bearing ! Just perfect
Yep l scolded him and then l read the comments and had to laugh 😅
Show your video of you doing an engine rebuild... keyboard warrior
Been doing this type of work for many years yes press the bearings from the outer race and a parts washer too all parts should be washed before you order parts so if there is any part that was damaged but was not seen due to dirt or grease debris you find it at that time. Yes replace all bearings with the fact that this had all that debris in the case. Yes put rings staggered. Assembly lube is a good thing to use freezing the bearings and heating the case great idea. Remember group, give this guy pointers we all started here and I always say to my techs when you were born could you walk? He is doing well and with good pointers from the group he will be a champ in this industry and hobby. Keep up the good work and drink in the good pointers given here.
100% agree but I don’t think he wants to know,I like you want to give Joe a leg up and pass on to him what I’ve experienced and learnt though my years being on the tools,and what we all try to achieve through his channel.
He has a huge influence on the younger generation and he has the moral imperative now to show them the right way to do the job properly.
You should find a parts washer. I guarantee you aren't removing all of the metal debris from inside with shop towels.
Your right he re installs way to many dirty parts
Looks pretty clean to me. He didn’t just use shop towels.
I guess u haven’t worked on something that he sold after joe “rebuilt it” judging by the work he did on a 450 Yamaha he sold, he’s got no fucking clue
I agree being a power sports mechanic my self I would never install new parts with dirty cases ………. Get a parts washer !!!
And how about a pressure washer before you start working on it at all. Parts washer would be a good investment.
Part of me understand that you're always looking for the next project, so cranking them out quickly is important. As well as the 3 videos a week. Just slow down a little bit and think about the small details. As others have said, whenever pressing bearings, always use the outer race ( im not being a prick about it either, just a tip). The reason so many people are saying to clean the cases inside and out, is because when a buyer looks at a "complete rebuild" and the outer case looks like it hasnt been touched, it makes them wonder if as little care has been taken on the inside as well. Keep doing what you're doing. It's clearly working for you, just try and hone your skills on every thing you have a chance to.
It's called workmanship and pride in your work.
I so very much agree.
Well the outside of the engine does show how little care he took when assembling the engine, so i guess the buyer gets what he sees...
Agreed!! Should be quality over quantity. Does it matter how many four wheelers or bikes you have, if they all have grit floating around in the oil...
@@brianmenzer487 If he makes more vids and people watch, then thats more profit for him. Take a look at the title again "I Rebuilt The Cheapest Broken Down UTV (Better Than New)" I dont think so.
Joe, you can definitely justify the cost of a part cleaning tank for the channel. This is great content.
I am always surprised you don’t own a parts washer. With all the dirty crusty parts i see you handle, as the man said,” I am sure all the metal chips are not removed with a shop towel”. Great channel!
Secret parts washer trick: You take a flywheel magnet, stick it into the bottom of your parts washer and it catches all the metal bits. Yes,. he needs a parts washer.
I could never work on those rigs as dirty as they are, OMG he could have at least pressure washed that and other RV's before tearing them down and replaceing the engines into the RV's, this was horrible, I grinded my teeth more when he put that motor in that nasty dirty muddy engine bay, cmon really?
😢
You seen him start cleaning it he didn't show him cleaning it he does it off camera dip.
@@keyper555you never seen him clean it lol.he does it off camera 😂😂. You don't see the hole process 😂😂.
6:04 Do you have a manual showing it’s okay to press a roller bearing in like that? You risk dimpling the races or the balls by pressing on the inner race. Ideally you’d want the pressing force to go in thru the outer race only (when installing) in this scenario.
It's his shit he can do it how he wants 😂😂.
@@jerrywilcox9890 You left out a word. Yes, it’s his sh*t show, literally.
@@jerrywilcox9890 hes going to sell this machine
Hey, thanks for explaining WHY he shouldn't press the inner race! Everyone else just points out that he did it. It helps people like me who don't know any better. 👍
I Ave always been envious of people that can take things apart and remember how to put them back together. I have little patience doing teadiuos stuff like that. Congrats. Great videos.
It hurts to watch you press those bearings from the centers
always press bearings on their OUTER races...!
I was wincing😳
I was coming to comment the same
yea im also out here screaming GETAFUCKINGPARTSWASHER‼️‼️
aaaahhhhh me too... Doh!!! @2vantage
As several have commented, you definitely need a parts washer to not only clean the inside of the cases but the outside should look as clean as the inside. You need to also clean the UTV itself before putting a rebuilt into the space, IMO. That is you want to claim "Better Than New". Love watching your videos.
I have been saying the same thing for months now but I don't think he cares, I would never do any work on these RVs untill I pressure washed every parts of them.
You should put the cases in the oven at about 250 degrees, and put the bearings in the freezer overnight.They'll go together easily without pressing.
He's a good mechanic but some of his techniques car questionable by now you would have thought he would have learned better?
Press on outter race of the bearing.
@ed9157 Yes the press is for that but i've put the bearings in the freezer overnight and then heated the cases/whatever I'm working on and they basically drop right in. No need to press anything or beat on anything. It's just one of those things that you learn as you go along that becomes a little "trick of the trade" that doesn't hurt anything but makes it way easier.
@edd9157 it's how he applied the pressure always use the most outer extremes of the bearing and a little heat applied to the case will expand it thus making it even easier on your parts?
@@ar2043I worked a few years on an assembly floor building jet engines over 40 years ago. We had a heat pad for the disk and a basket fitted over the shaft we filled with dry ice. Then air was used to blow over the ice towards the shaft.
An old timer master mechanic standing in the shadows, off camera, petting Vinny, and coaching, would do wonders.
I was always taught to never press on the internal race when pressing the bearing in. It should be the outer race so you don’t put pressure on the bearing and damaging them.
Be nice to see a clean engine going together with those nice parts just sayin
There is dried mud all over..😢
@@MrJmattr3 OMG I know, makes me ill just watching him do that and not even care. Everytime I ever pulled an engine to rebuild or replace I always made sure the engine bay was completely clean and painted and all hoses replaced and wiring retaped and repaired as needed, it was spotless when that nice clean engine was dropped into it. I pride myself in doing a clean and professional job and the customer knows it was done right and respectively.
That engine is far from being clean😂
Using a wire brush on the exhaust valve seats is not a good idea at all😮
Right back into that filthy chassis also. 🤦🏻♂️
Do not press the bearings in by the inner ring!!!
I'm not at that part yet. Did he really do that? That's not a good move.
@@ar2043 Yes he does!! I cringed!
Never press bearings in by the inner race. It puts allot of stress on the bearing components. I use heavy duty transport socket set. They are big in size and impact rated. Then you can find the exact one that fits inside the case with no resistance but it only puts pressure on the exterior or case side of the bearing. Hope that tip helps.
Harbor freight or our princess auto has the bigger socket sets available for reasonable cost.
So many times I've used them for press. I don't think the inside has even been used.
And....here we go again.
Spend $2,700 on some junk. $1400 worth of rebuild stuff and all the time.... But still can't spend a few hundred dollars for a parts washer to make sure everything is clean😮
Pressing on the inner race of of the bearings to install them, wow!!
IKR??? I just cringe everytime I see him not clean anything, just wipe it down with a paper towel and some WD40, should be fine right?
@@keyper555a lot of people use an old domestic dishwasher for smaller engine blocks and parts like this, using parts washer chem of course or paraffin. Does a fantastic job the casings look like new.
Even a clean pan, a brush, and some purple power.
EXACTLY RIGHT!
a little lifehack for you is, Squirt a little hot glue between your lapping suction cup And the valve. It stays on until you're done and then everything comes off really easy when you want it to
I was just watching a video of yours from a year ago, where you were having trouble removing the exhaust, died from the cylinder. The next time you run across a problem like that after you weld the nut to the stud try shocking it with some water. Sometimes the sudden change in temperature will help in loosening the stud. I find it to work very well. Thanks for the videos. I have enjoyed them.
Gotta a question for those of you who know about motorcycle repair. If you have to split the case and replace bearings, wouldn't you want to replace all the bearings and not just the ones that "appear" bad. There was a lot of metal shavings inside the case.
Agreed, but he'll sell it on for the next owner to deal with the bearing failure.
Sounds like you aren't much of a fan.Im curious for real are you hear to just bust his balls or some other motive.Never can understand why people watch videos and then talk shit about what or how they are doing the job.For the record i do agree with the parts washer comment@aeroman5239
In this instance with a failure yes all bearings and seals should be replaced. But even mechanic shops will clean the good bearings and re use them. My preference if theres a major failure all bearings get replaced. If no major failure than only the certain bearings get replaced. Totally different for 2 stroke engines though
@@aeroman5239 I normaly give the owner the option if they are tight on money and I feel the other bearings are still good. It depends on the failure...something like this that was ran into the ground, I would say replace them all. If it was a "This thing started kocking and I turned it off"... Then the other bearing may still be ok.
@@davesplace1307Not different for any rotating machinery. If you have an oil batch lubrication system and there were metal parts that broke and pieces floating in the oil then all the bearings and seals should be replaced. No smart tech will warranty a repair without replacing all the parts.
If it's yours and you want to gamble then you replace only obviously damaged pieces.
You definitely need a washing machine for these pieces to be 100% clean. It's a must have.
Yeah, as I said, you should have pressure-washed the engine and bay previously. Keep the whole operation as clear as possible. Not going overboard, just making it presentable and not scrappy looking.
But I can't deny you do a great job.
Loving the videos, very thorough in what you do with great editing to be straightforward on what your doing to keep us the viewers engaged in the projects.
This is one of my favorite channels, but please get yourself a ultrasonic parts cleaner. With as many projects you have going on, you could have parts in the cleaner while you work on other things. Saves a ton of time. I don't questions whatsoever your knowledge on repair but the cleaner will help, especially for Carbs.
You should press the outer race when pressing a bearing like that… I did it like you did and wreaked the inner race. Not criticizing just hoping to help avoid disaster.
If you looked at the state of the engine from you outside you would laugh if someone told you it was brand new inside 😂 ... Love it when 2vintage uploads a vlog but 100percent invest in a parts washer for yourself 💪
With al the upgraded aftermarket parts on that thing, it should last a LONG time of service out on the farm. Nice job Joe, I'm sure it'll run like a champ next video! Thanks for the hard work man, Happy New Year!!
I think how many times you have to reposition the cameras to always have the build on film, takes a lot of prep doing what it is you do to impress your audience. Well Done, You make for a great educational shop instructor teacher, Very Knowledgeable Definitely ASE certifiable #1
and IMTF "INTERNATIONAL MECHANICAL TASK FORCE, TOP TRADE CERTIFICATION.
Learn a ton watching and love them. Also go to comments regularly to learn what not to do also :)
Takes thick skin to do what you do. Most people trying to help you improve. End of day better to focus on best practices rather then focus on pump video. Long term better to have community of people not yelling about pressing in center for bearings etc… if I was you I would make a note to not do that in your next video. But end of day what’s the goal here make video for money or help people learn properly what to do. If make mistake it’s best to note that and fix the issue so people learn. If don’t fix mistakes or let people know and they don’t go to comments to see problem then this isn’t a teaching channel it’s a content with no merit channel. It’s just a place for people to zone out and run it in the background.
The small fixes that have outsized downsides people pointing out in the comments would literally take you 2 min. Put parts in cleaner while doing another video, that’s 1 min, and press on outside of bearing case (I’ve seen you do it properly 85% of the time on many other videos and even talk about it and how it’s important to do). That’s 2 min to do stuff right.
Keep up the good work joe dont mind all negative comments you gonna get that all time no matter what you do. Keep on trucking id love to work with you looks fun
Listen, I’m impressed with how you fearlessly tackle any issue with almost any engine… it’s easy for people to sit and watch your videos and nitpick… I’ve been in Mechanic for 35 years and I really like the way you operate, you obviously know what you’re doing. Thanks for the detailed videos and good camera work it’s also obvious you love what you do which is why you do it so well.
great job! Keep up the good work
Really ! You must be a butcher also or is it just plain stupid ! ?
Awesome video Joe as usual great job. Would love to see you invest in a parts washer 😊🎉🎉keep up the great work !!!!
Joe I like how you point out everything. It makes me feel like I could do this. Can't wait until you get a big shop. And overhead crane would be nice.
Thanks! Video and comments all very entertaining and helpful! Happy new year to all!
I really have to agree with everyone that recommends a parts washer. My first reaction to watching the engine repairs was they won’t last due to all the junk that hasn’t been cleaned out of the new assembly. It takes a few extra minutes to clean the engine parts and another 30 minutes to power wash the entire vehicle. Will make a huge difference.
How do you hold the valve keepers in place when releasing valves? I always used bit of grease to hold them in place.
I freaking love the rebuilds! Can't wait for part 2. Nice work buddy:)
That new parts kit is really nice. Thanks for another great vid.
Looks like you got a new tool never seen you use that bearing press before 😮
Shame it was pressing on inner race🙄
Can't believe you didn't pressure wash under the engine and rear end before placing the engine back in!
That was hard to watch.
Wow ! To say doing that job is a challenge would be an understatement.
One of the easiest engines to rebuild actually for a sxs/quad anyhow
Yeah, no it’s really not that hard. When I was 12 I rebuilt a Honda foreman 450 motor (with 5speed transmission inside the motor). This thing was a piece of cake.😅
@@justin_steen maybe it's bc I'm used to working on 2 stroke engines lol
Thats a beast of a motor. Was cool to see the new parts that looked like real good quality. I thought the bore would have been bigger to push such a big vehicle but i gues will see! Cant wait man, thumbs up as always Joe.
Joe, don't listen to haters your videos are getting better and better.
It makes me sad because I love you're initiative!!
Also from the Upper Midwest (Minnesota) UTVs are a hot item, like 4x4 trucks, this time of year. Good job!
You do a good job on rebuilds and don't get cheap on parts. That being said, you should find a local auto repair shop that has an "automatic caustic soda parts washer". They cost money to run and maintain, but it would be worth a buck a minute to put all your project large parts in for 30 minutes. Just turn the timer and come back to parts that look like new...and are VERY HOT. When our shop got one it improved the look and quality of our finished product and the time saving has paid for it several fold (but they are very expensive for a one-man gig).
After watching your vids for over 2 yrs. Iv'e come to to the conclusion that I am a fully pledged motorbike mechanic with city and guilds certificates
Also Joe: I am not sure why ya'll don't put a thin ceramic coating on both the pistons and heads. It reduces the metal temps by around ¿¿¿° saving both seals and bearings from heat of combustion. You put the coating on then put it in a small toaster oven for a bit so it don't come off.
I'm impressed. Obviously there are people out there with the expertise to do this--and you are clearly one of them! I'd imagine a lot of what you know came from experience, but did you start with any training/education and if so, what? I'm also impressed with all the different tools and equipment you have (like the bearing press)--I imagine those are mandatory tools if you're going to do what you do, but still, it's very impressive to me! (I thought I was a hero replacing a carburetor on my lawnmower...I'm not worthy!!)
Nicely packaged kit as well.
I just wish you were closer to where I live so you could fix my shifter lever....it gets stuck in gear....lol .....but I really like watching you do what you do, great job!!!
Hey Joe: First thing I have ever seen ya'll do I did not agree with. The crank bearings. Ya'll pushed on the center which pushes directly on the bearings. The bearings were not frozen overnight in the freezer and no co2 cooling. Anyone else would or could have ruined those bearings without a perfectly flat or actually pressing on the outer ring as that is where the force is applied. Don't mean to be a negative Nancy but you usually are very fastidious in your manipulations.
if you are doing all that.. should just solvent wash the entire case.. for peace of mind. Another great video Joe!
is it me, or was the exhaust cam in 1 tooth off from parallel?
i thnk it was just the camera angle
Good job Joe enjoy your videos keep up the good work
Great Video. Time to up your knowledge. First, you need to purchase a set of Telescoping Gages (these are used to measure the inside diameter of objects, from as low 1/2" in., up to 6" in.) Second a couple of Micrometers, and a Caliper wouldn't hurt. For what your doing the Harbor FRIGHT (spelling intended) should work. It wouldn't hurt to search craiglists, or face crooks market place, for Starrett Tools (Machinist Gold Standard for Tooling.) Third, you need to go to your local welding supply, and ask about "Temp-Sticks," a.k.a. Temperature Sticks. From what I've seen you use heat on, to "EXPAND A BEARING," I would recommend something in the neighborhood of 250 Degree's up to only 400 degree's. FYI Aluminum melts @ 850 degrees approx. When using a temp stick, if as you mark a mark / draw a small line, and it seems like kids crayon's mark, the part is not hot enough, soon as you touch with the Temp-stick, it should melt CLEAR & WET.
Instead of using SWAG Measurements. (SWAG = Scientific Wild A$$ Guess, ) you should want to control your Expandgence / Contractions, to a measurable (via Telescoping & Micrometers) 0.001.5" to 0.002.0" Thousandth.
Just some FYI, besides using your home freezer, you could also use Dry-Ice. In my opinion Dry-Ice, is better than the home freezer. I'll leave out the liquid nitrogen for when you really want to shrink something. Liquid nitrogen-LN2-is nitrogen in a liquid state at low temperature. Liquid nitrogen has a boiling point of about −196 °C (−321 °F; 77 K). How to tell when using Liquid nitrogen, your part has reached MAXIMUM COLD. The part will stop boiling, while in the Liquid nitrogen. DO NOT TOUCH WITH BARE / UNGLOVED HANDS.
For you Valve Lapping, make a Financial investment in a BLUE or RED SHARPIE Pen. This way your truly not SWAGING the valve seat. Coat both the valve-seat, and the valve face. Cost maybe a $1.50 (One-Dollar-Fifty Cents.) The sharpie, is a way to apply machinist bluing, without having to wait for the real stuff to dry after 5 - 10 min's. I like the BIGGER Sharpie's because they cover more surface area faster. Just a hint. For Valve-Lapping Standard Size Sharpie should work just fine.
Recently found your videos! As a fixer/builder myself, I’m hooked! Great job on the videos!
If you are pressing a bearing into a hole, press on the outer race. If you are pressing a bearing on to a shaft, press on the inner race. Never transfer the pressing power through the balls.
Freezing the bearings would make bearing installation less invasive on the aluminum case.
The cylinder should be scrubbed in soapy water with a coarse nylon bristle brush. You need to remove the microscopic pieces of honing stone to prevent pemature ring wear.
I may have some criticisms, but I still enjoy your videos!
Dang..the full Monte..that is a FULL build.
And I noticed everyone's trying to tell you how to do your work I'll just say I've been learning from you and I don't think you're doing anything wrong at all keep up the good work Joe
Have you noticed how dirty everything is? Thats not what you want to teach people you want to tell them that you must clean and inspect everything before reassembly.
It's called reality 😁 and yes I do see how clean the inside of the motor is I think he's teaching very well I love watching and learning about bikes and stuff if you want to complain about how clean the outside of a motor is maybe you should watch another video that's not based in reality most people don't have the expensive cleaner or tools.but that ks for pointing out that the outside of the motor is dirty I'm sure he will get right to cleaning a work rig to perfection.lol.
@@motorcycleman3322 Im pretty sure the inside isnt clean either, and with metal chunks in the engine you should replace all the bearings.
WOW!!!
I love how people think now days.first thing I noticed is that no one can be positive in the world now just want poke at people oh look how dirty that is.lol.poke poke.. everyone have a better night.
Yep, never press radial bearings from the inner race. Use faced off round bar just a tad smaller than outter race OD.
Hi I enjoy watching you put the engine together I do learn so much thank you .😊
His assembly lube reminds me of the old STP lubricant we used in the 70s building race car engines.
7:00 with press
you havent to push the bearing while pressing on the outer ring
otherwise you can give it some play ?
Good job, cool ..... full REV6 ! -Ü-
Good video, and i saved it because I have the exact same 570 color and all with a heated cab that I mostly use for pushing snow, never know I might need to re-watch this video several times if I ever need to rebuild my engine.
I can see the lack of care when putting the engine together ie cleaning the cases correctly or the way your pressing the bearing in. Guess your selling the machine..
Wasting your time he doesn’t want to know
two lessons from the comments section.
1. do not press bearings from inner race/ring
2. get a parts washer
Good job joe all the best for the new year to you and family and dogs, hope you all had a good Christmas take care and god bless 👍👌🔧🔧🔧🦴🐾❤️
6:03 shouldn’t you be pressing it by the outer ring? Isn’t that too much stress for the ball bearings?
Watching your vid and thinking "dirty interior" and "wrong bearing press". Look at the comments and see 4 million like posts, so I'm not going repeat. Keep up the cool vids Joe and more Vinnie shots, he's cool.
Genuine question - assembly lube doesn’t seem to be applied to the assembly, especially to the bearings… is that normal? I’ve seen other assemblies that seem to do it to ensure a smooth fit and initial metal-to-metal contact.
I agree, cams were installed into the head without any lubrication, not even oil where they run on bare aluminum. Other parts installed dry or dirty………
@@BLUESBOYBENFIELD I oiled all cams with oil afterwards. Bearings had assembly line on them as I showed it being applied in the video.
@@2vintage dont let these people get you down joe. we all know you do a great job and yes buy a parts washer
@@2vintage I like your videos and I watch nearly every one. I do consider you a good mechanic, although some stuff could be cleaner and personally I would have put oil on the head under where the cams sit……I did notice you oiled the cam lobes….but hey, life goes on……
I keep a can of oven cleaner for the carbon on head and piston clean.works well.keep up the good work
Watch Fitzees Fabrication channel. He buys oven cleaner at a dollar store and uses it as a decreased before pressure washing. He's cheap, but has some great tips and techniques!
Degreaser
What about the oil jet that goes in the end of the crank? I had to swap it over from the old crank when i did a 570 rebuild.
Hi Joe, love your videos, and have a great new year, only one critisum can you please jet wash your bikes and Atv’s before you build them, as it would look so much more professional, and as someone has already commented get a parts washer as well, just a suggestion. 🤷♂️ 🏍️ 🤷♂️ 👍👍👍👍
At least the press was clean ! LMAO !
Pressing in bearings on the inner race !? Oh great job there . That bearing is spent ! . It's all perfect now though . MASTER BUTCHER AT WORK ! Repeat at your own risk .
Those bearings are fine. Yall sure are salty.
@@NoName-qs6ei They may be fine and they also may have a lot shorter life span now... Why would you press them in the wrong way when you can do it the right way? Id doesnt take any more time, it doesnt cost anything to do it right.
@@soulis1000 Because the case is aluminum. It takes almost no effort to press those bearings in.
It's a mule. Not a nascar.
He's probably trolling yall.🤣 😂 😆
@@NoName-qs6ei Have you pressed bearings in to a aluminium case? Well i have and its suposed to be a real snug fit, and he didnt even cool the bearings or heat the case.
@@soulis1000 I do it daily.
Invest in scotch brute pads and wheels . Gasket surfaces and all so much better . Like the vids for sure .
That was impressive. Nice job.
been watching your channel for some years now you have came along way your knowledge and abilities have increased exponentially,very nice work young man..
Parts washer, press on outer race only..torque wrenches?
Not a mechanic but at 642 on video main bearing replacement l thought you needed to push on outer ring of bearing to not stress or wreck bearing itself am l wrong? Love the show. Thank you for your hard work.
Joe has a little one! You can hear them crying inside the house
Remember the loctite in the gear retaining bolts too. Never hurts to have a little extra peace of mind.
Most bearings you are not supposed to press on the middle, but on the outside edges to prevent from damaging the bearing. No assembly lube on the top end?
What brand of gasket maker do you prefer to use on the case halves? And do you put it on paper gaskets when you’re building other motor cycle and atv engines? And do you put oil on the head bolt threads and washers prior to installing them? Thank you
Nice job. Your videos are well done.
All valves should be lapped to make sure both the seat an valve are touching all the way around the seat if it isnt the seats in the head needs recut , can't believe the halfass cleaning job on this complete rebuild job along with the just perfect mechanic work
Question for anyone when doing a full rebuild I would rather change every bearing but how would you change the bearings that you can’t get to the other side of? Is there a special tool? I’m no mechanic just curious thanks! And keep up the good work bud I love your videos they’ve helped me a lot in my diagnosing and fixing of machines! 😊
Oh man we're almost there...
🎉HAPPY NEW YEAR🎉
Put a little assembly lube in the oil pump just a little to help with the first start so it’s
not dry.
You're a good mechanic. It would have been nice to see you clean up the Ranger before reinstalling the engine. 52:30
That was just shameful to watch.
ur videos are really good...keep up the great work
Not sure if the instruction you were following were the service manual or just the instructions that came with the kit but usually in situations like this with high torque values and steel threads to aluminum you should use liberal moly grease on the threads and the bolt heads and washers if any. That way you get topper torque and bolt stretch.
Just for future reference the ring gaps should not be placed on the pistons pressures points relative to the cyl. you want them on the pin side of the piston to ensure proper sealing. IE: place gap at 9 or 3 o'clock compress ring with fingers at 12 & 6 closes fine, now turn ring gap to 12 or 6 and once again compress at 12 & 6, you'll notice it won't compress properly. Same as in the cyl. the piston has all the force applied at 12 and 6, you can see this on old pistons that will not have worn at 3 & 9 but always at 12&6.
Not trying to be that "guy" just passing along a bit of info. Keep up the hard work I'm rooting for you. 🙂
Edit: parts washer?
Clean engine would look nice for a day or two. Nice work, love watching
ive really enjoyed watching your vids as I plan on flipping bikes as a side hustle and wondered what your history with small engines have been? have u gone to school for it or just accumulated knowledge over the years?
you make diagnosing look easy and wondered
All of the experts showed up to watch this one.
Hi Joe,
Don't let the negative comments,get you down.
Get a parts washer before kids come on the Horizon.
You and Vinny will be hiding,in the garage then.😂
I'm not a mechanic but I love watching people do their "craft"....the good ones, that is. I'm curious how many hours were involved
in pulling the engine, tearing it down/cleaning it up, and reinstalling? Also how many hours of reading to do it right? Ball park
time is what I'm asking, if you know? peace & love to watch this...