@ 3:24 ...I have been a mechanic/bike racer/bike nerd for years and never thought of this one. That is an awesome tip and will use it. Thanks for a great video.
I discovered you recently and have been binge watching your videos. They really resonant with me as a recreational rider and mechanic. You've talked of naps on occasion during a ride, when I go out on a hike I usually get a nap in along the way in a hammock. I may adapt naps to my rides. Enjoyed the jazz!
Thank you so much for this video. Not enough "top to bottom" videos on UA-cam (yours was the only one I could find) for this procedure. Very clear, very thorough. I'm building my first disc bike now, and I'll probably be installing the brakes in a few days after my wheels arrive. After watching your video I feel much more confident to tackle the job.
+Christopher Cornette thanks man! Happy to read you comment. I was myself looking for thorough instructions before I started messing with disc brakes but couldn't find any so decided I would make one myself. Glad someone find it useful!
Excellent video! Well shot and edited. More importantly, I could manage my shift from mechanical to hydraulic for the first time without any flaws. Thanks for the help!
I will bet bike shop mechanics are making a fortune installing and maintaining these braking systems.I for one will stick with my standard sidepull caliper brakes.I applaud the guy who did this video though.
Thanks for this video! Watching it now in July 2020. Very useful and helpful as I am bleeding brakes for the first time and am having trouble because air has obviously got trapped in the cable. I will go and try again!
Great video and the music certainly helps with what is quite a stressful process the first time done. I just wish I'd seen it earlier: I over-tightened the bleed screw and stripped it... It's much too easy to do this with such a tiny aluminium hex bolt, so I assume it really does not need to be fastened tight at all. Fortunately there is enough 'outside' of the screw-head clear of the lever body for a small pair of pliers to get sufficient grip on it. But it took a lot of profanity before I realised this. I'd also advise against using a ball-headed allen key on the bleed screw, it seems to make the slipping/ stripping problem worse. Flat-sided, and inserted as straight and deep as possible.
100% agree! I can add that even my "expensive" hex set has a slight curve on the non-ball end side that can cause trouble. Now I always use a really cheap set of small hex keys that at totally flat on both ends. Like you say, it doesn't need to be that tight at all, it's probably the rubber O-ring that keeps it sealed rater than the actual screw. Cheers!
Stumbled upon this after watching the rotor installation video from Park Tools and they recommend to not put grease for the rotor and centerlock lockring. But as long as you are careful to not contaminate the rotors, I don't see why not to put grease there as explained in this video
The axles that are pretty much at the same distance from the rotor as the centerlock are, are full of grease. I agree, if you're careful when applying the grease and when cleaning it isn't a problem
Brenton Collas Sorry mate, I was going to reply to your comment, and accidentally pressed the delete button! Anyway, you don't need the funnel adapter with the 785 STI levers! They do however use the BH50 hose (bh90 used on the new 9170/8070)
Most important tip of this video.. do now overtighten. You are better off checking your brakes for leaking over the next few days than over tighten it. I had to buy a new shifter because of this problem. the threads inside the shifter is made of cheap plastic/alum or whatever the crap it is. I wish shimano made the fill port like their older models with real metal and very hard to strip
If you're not getting paid to do this kind of thing you should. Amazing work. I haven't searched but I hope you have a video on how to setup/route the Di2 cables and derailleurs.
Thanks David! During the last 5 months the ads on my videos has generated about $10 haha. Luckily I make videos for fun not for money, so it's all good. Much more rewarding to hear that you guys find the videos helpful. I have not done any Di2 routing video apart from the handlebar junction unfortunately but that's a good idea, will remember it for next time I'm messing around with Di2 or building up a new frame. Thanks again!
+massionmassii thank you! yes, I've seen it as well. Did not really feel it was necessary as I do this once or twice per year. But good to know that it is an option! Thanks for sharing!
Great Video! Any tips on how to bleed the Rear Brake to avoid sponginess? do I simply tilt the front of the bike upward on the bike stand to position the Rear Brake to the Lowest Point possible during the bleed? Thank you in advance!
Very nice & instructive video - as always. @1:40, the bolts provided with Ultegra R8070 are way too long for my bokeh frame. Should I look for shorter bolts or work with spacers? Thanks and keep up the good work!
MaPo depends on how long they are? I I used spacers in my Bokeh as well, maybe 5mm or there about. You don’t really want to have them stick out too far underneath. You can also buy those bolts on amazon, this is the one for 15mm stays amzn.to/2FettUE Don’t remember exactly which length the Bokeh required. Cheers!
Great help! I have the Ultegra version which have the bolts already in the levers with a yellow stopping valve. I'm presuming there's liquid in them already. The cables are already attached to the callipers and sealed. I'm not really sure how to approach getting the stopper and bolts out of the levers and attaching to the cables?
Thanks heaps for this video, super useful and easy to follow! Managed my first brake bleed without issue. Noticed my pads are getting a bit lower (nothing dire), so started searching for new pads. Couldn't find Shimano lo3a pads anywhere (or basically any Shimano pads). I live in Japan, and in Tokyo, but that doesn't seem to help. Any thoughts on suitable replacements for the lo3a pads?
I got word from my LBS that Shimano is replacing L03A with a new pad L04a (probably look exactly the same) but probably still be a while before it’s out I reckon. Any pad that fit the Shimano flat mount is better than nothing, but I haven’t personally tested any of them so can’t give you a recommendation sorry.
According to Shimano, they say you should use the BH90 cables with 9170/8070 rather than the BH59 that are specced for the 785/805. I haven't tried using any other combination so can't confirm or deny if it will cause any problems. One thing to keep in mind though, is that the Hose nut you need for the 9170/8070 levers only comes with the BH90 road hose kit.
From what i know the BH90 have a bigger diameter to push more/easier fluid. shimano adopted the MTB stuff to road here. in theorey it should work with the old cable, too, but you need to buy the new hose nut seperatly then.
Hi! Great video, just got one question. I'm building a bike from scratch with Ultegra R8070. How do you recommend me to measure hydraulic cable lengths since I don't have the old ones to compare? Thanks.
I would thread the full length hose through the frame, then secure it at the point where it would be at the rear brake caliper. Take the other end and hold it against the handlebar (or even tape it down if necessary) then turn the handlebar in both directions and make sure you have enough slack so the bars can turn freely. Like I do @ 0:27 in this video. Hope that helps
Did you found the hood a little loose? Or I'm just an unlucky guy? My R8070 right hood get loose just after I rolled the hood from front. Replaced with a new hood and everything is fine. Same happened for my old RS685 while it takes several months to happen.
Adam Queen yeah, they tend to not be as tight after you pull it back the first time... not a big issue for me, they seem to “pop back” in to place one you start riding I’ve found. Not had the need to replace one yet.
Great Video! Just curious if I do take out the hydraulic hose from levers after installation do I need to rebleed etc? I am only asking cause I dont have a bleed kit and would like to change bars.
Thanks! Most likely you need to rebleed as air might sneak in to the system. You will know once you connect everything again... when you disconnect make sure you don't squeeze the levers. If the lever feel "spongey" when reconnected, then it's probably best to rebleed. Btw, unless you're handlebars are internally routed you shouldn’t have to disconnect the hoses.
Thanks! Yeah I am taking out the internally routed ready bars for a custom paint job and figure I try to do it myself without bringing it to the shop. Guess I best buy the bleed kit.. Btw are Sram bleed kit and shimano bleeding systems compatible other then using diff oils
The way you bleed them are quite different... you could probably hack your way using sram syringes with Shimano, but not the other way around. Shimano are way simpler to bleed as you don't really need syringes.
Wish I'd found this video earlier! Especially before I did round off the bleed screw head. Looks like its a really common problem, they are ssssooo soft its madness.
Hey, I am buying a Canyon Endurace CF SL with Di2. It doesn't come with a hidden junction box though, and I see the SLX with the integrated handlebars still has the junction box beneath the stem. What bars are you using here on your Endurace (I assume it is), and would you recommend them.
thesalkin I think is was named “h31 ergobar” or something like that, a few year ago now. I put the junction box under the Computer mount that kept it well hidden. Until I got the handlebar end junction, then I drilled the handlebar the same way I’ve show in this video: ua-cam.com/video/cON3w1IL_7k/v-deo.html
@@ridesofjapan Oh great! I was wondering if it would be too much of a risk to drill carbon handlebars. Thanks a lot, your videos are really informative and/or entertaining, and you're always helpful in the comments, very much appreciate your content!
How much lever movement did you turn out with before the brakes grabbed? I know you can adjust the reach and free stroke on these levers but mine seem to have a lot more "distance travel" toward the handlebar than my old 785 levers did?! The brakes work fine, but there is just a lot of travel. Do yours feel like they have a longer pull as well?
Brian Smith, hmmm no, I think it was about the same feel if not a tad better... was a while ago now I used the 785 so can’t say for sure. I always liked a lot of travel on my levers though. Check my reach and free stroke video, I have mine set to minimum free stroke and about middle reach.... ua-cam.com/video/9TkudgYe0EY/v-deo.html maybe you can compare yours to the travel in that video.
11:21 What is the torque requirement for tightening the front break mounting bolts on a carbon fork. According to Shimano manual 6-8 Nm is needed but i think that's too much. Great Video, thanks.
i would like to replace the brake calipers only. should i use new "olive" ring and hose insert at the existing brake line? or should i also change the brake line with a new one?
Alex Ioannides To be sure that it will be a tight seal I would cut of the old insert/olive and install a new one. No need to change the hose as long as it is long enough and the new caliper can use the same hose (In Shimano’s case SM-HB90 and SM-HB59)
did you use the full two bottles of fluid for the install? I'm starting with a dry system like you (with used parts) and I'm wondering how much fluid I should buy, and I still haven't found info on the volume of fluid the system contains
Jean-François Morissette if you’re lucky you could get away with just one bottle, but I wouldn’t risk it... get two just in case, you will need it eventually when re-bleeding. Not very expensive either. Personally I got one of the big bottles, should last me a good couple of years :)
Rides of Japan thanks a lot for the excellent video! If I only want to change the calipers should I drain the system of oil beforehand? Can I do that by simply attaching a hose to the bleed nipple, opening the port and letting the fluid come out by squeezing the lever a few times? Or how would I do that best? I'm afraid that if I just remove the caliper all the oil from the brake hose will spill on the floor. Any other suggestion for replacing calipers is also very welcome :). Thanks!
Paolo Capozzi unless you need to change the hoses as well (for example if they will be too short when cutting and putting on a new inserts/olives) you should not need to drain the system at all. I would just unscrew the hose from the caliper, just keep something underneath for the few drops that will inevitably come out. But since the bleed screw in the lever is closed and no air can enter from above, the fluid should stay in the system. Cut the hoses as near the inserts as possible... then tap in the new one (this might be the most complicated step as the hoses are still attached to the frame.) After that’s done, attach the new caliper and do a normal bleed. If you want to drain it anyway though what you said should work, just open bleed port on the caliper and the bleed screw up at the lever.
Rides of Japan thanks for the answer! Indeed it makes sense there will be no oil drop if the lever screw is closed. However I don't understand why I would need to cut the hoses before inserting them into the new calipers? The new calipers are exactly the same model as the old ones that I want to replace (BR-RS805, of an Ultegra group set) so I would assume the length of the hose should stay the same. But I have to admit I've never even bled disc brakes before so I lack a bit of experience in this respect :). Once again, many thanks for your help!
Paolo Capozzi According to Shimano the olive and insert are a one-time use item... annoyingly. From shimano: "Do not reuse the olive piece or the connector insert when reinstalling. A damaged or reused olive, or connector insert, may not provide a secure brake hose connection, possibly causing the brake hose to disconnect from the calipers or brake lever." That being said, I have actually done this once then I forgot to attach a cable port once...without any problem... however I would not be comfortable recommend this, for the above stated reasons.
Rides of Japan thanks for the clarification. Indeed rather annoying...unless the component is damaged or needs to be somehow "deformed" to get into position I don't see the reason of changing those pieces. but thanks a lot for pointing it out! Shimano might have its good reasons for specifying this.
Hi, love your videos. Do you know how to adjust the new 105 disc STI to get the breakting point earlyer? At the moment I can pull the lever to far to the handlebar...
Sound like you still need to bleed the brakes a bit more if you can pull the lever all the way to the handle bar. Put an extra drop of mineral oil into the bleed port on the lever once you have removed the bleed funnel, just to make sure not air sneaks in when putting back the bleed screw.
Did you fit the Di2 cable through the same opening as the brake hoses? Thinking about converting a mechanical canyon endurance to Di2 ... I won't think the cable will fit through the gear cable openings.
Horstelin oh wait a minute! I confused this with another frame I had! There was a separate port for the di2 on this endurace, but I manage to get both the hose and the di2 cable through the same hole by modifying the frame insert... just needed to make the “slit” in the inserts big enough to squeeze the di2 cable in. Unfortunately I don’t have this frame anymore so can’t show exactly how I did it.
Don't mean to cut down di2 I think their shifting system is great. But if you have an older bike with out the wire plumbing ports, just go Sram wireless e-tap, and while you're at it go WiFli. No wires no battery containers "NADA PINATA", just clean as a whistle.
Thanks! Unless I'm changing shifters or calipers, I would never change the brake hoses. I would however bleed the brakes about once per year or if the lever starts feeling weird.
Rides of Japan great video. My question: I’m upgrading my levers&calipers. Would you change hoses in this instance? They are ca. Year old and in perfect condition. What say you?
Did you totally strip the head? If you still have some edges left, find a hex-key that don't have a rounded tip.... that rounded tip on the more expansive ones did almost destroyed my screw. I found non rounded ones in one of those "cheap" multi-tool kits... Another tip would be to find a small enough torx key witch is also a common tip for damaged hex crews.... wonder if they make em that small though.
Rides of Japan tnx for the tip. I think i totally stripped the tip. Since i had bh59 with rs 685? And replaced with bh90 with r8070, i opened and closed bleed screw at least 4 times during the learning curve. I mean replacing is one thing but how do i close it after final bleeding? It seems inevitable that i need to go get a new screw huh? Do u think normal bike shops in the us will have replaceable screws? Since r8070 parts r really hard to find due to low supply, i ordered from uk and germany and US shops. Smh about my dumbness and lack of skillset...
Yes, I would get a new screw just to be sure. If your LSB don'T have them in stock they can surly order them. The part number is Y0C698030. (Did a quick google search and there seem to be a few sites selling them) As I learned too, you don't actually need to close it that tight, the O-ring is what is keeping it from leaking. I mess up all the time, that's what we learn from :P I semi-striped one of my bleed screws, and order two new just to be safe. They are available online here in Japan.
My Ultegra R8070 Di2 Disc groupset came in today (not sure if it came with olives/insert ready). Where did you purchase your olives and insert? Edit: Nvm it came with a built-in olive. I just have to remove the seal plug, insert the hose into the joint component, and tighten the flanged connecting bolt with an 8mm spanner while pushing in the brake hose. Picture for reference: imgur.com/a/lVwMRs3
Oh, have not seen that before, they must have started with that solution on the R8070 then? Very nice either way! For future purposes, I just get my olive/inserts from amazon, always have a few spares set at home just in case amzn.to/2JxsRH9
I have a new 785s and one issue. It is too much 'freestroke' feeling and large levers movement until they bites disks. I've bled these things several times with all the tricks (according your video). No air in system! The free stroke adjustment is all the way in (least free stroke) but the lever still moves 25mm before pads full engage. Do you have same problem with your old 785s?
Do you really need to fill the system with oil to the top ? With the older génération (R785) if you did this the oil would leak somewhere to prevent overfilling
Was it still firm directly after the bleed? and then got loose again? If it's loose right after bleeding there's probably still air in the system, so try blending again. If it was feeling ok but then got loose after a few hours check so that the hose connections are dry (no leaking) also check the caliper pistons if you see any leaking oil.
@@ridesofjapan It was firm straight after the bleed when I removed the brake block and installed the wheel the leaver became a lot looser. is that normal?
Theodoros Chatzis yes, that is normal. once you remove the blocks and put the brake pads in and the wheel, you will need to pump the brake lever a few times to push the pistons out to the correct position. If you just keep pumping the lever you should feel them firm up again once the brake pads hits the rotors 👍
Hi, great videos! Do you know the size of the bolts for the rear caliper you use here? Im building the same canyon bike and I have the calper bolts from an older bike and I dont know if they will work! thanks in advance!
EmiTT thanks! I don’t have that frame anymore, but I want to say the bolt where 30mm, not 100% sure though.... if they are too long you can always use shims.
Rides of Japan Yes, shims could work indeed! I'm too in a road to Dura ace :) one last question, I'm using 9170 shifters but 805 calipers, any experience on that? Bh90 hose, olive and instert on caliper and shifters? Keep up with the videos, really good!
+EmiTT I went all dura ace 9170 so have not tried that particular combination. A friend of mine use the 9170 shifters with non-series calipers and bh90 hoses, and I have not heard any complaints. Just make sure you have the correct inserts and olives for the hose.
@ 3:24 ...I have been a mechanic/bike racer/bike nerd for years and never thought of this one. That is an awesome tip and will use it. Thanks for a great video.
I discovered you recently and have been binge watching your videos. They really resonant with me as a recreational rider and mechanic. You've talked of naps on occasion during a ride, when I go out on a hike I usually get a nap in along the way in a hammock. I may adapt naps to my rides. Enjoyed the jazz!
As someone who is building their first bike, this is a life saver. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. Not enough "top to bottom" videos on UA-cam (yours was the only one I could find) for this procedure. Very clear, very thorough. I'm building my first disc bike now, and I'll probably be installing the brakes in a few days after my wheels arrive. After watching your video I feel much more confident to tackle the job.
+Christopher Cornette thanks man! Happy to read you comment. I was myself looking for thorough instructions before I started messing with disc brakes but couldn't find any so decided I would make one myself. Glad someone find it useful!
instablaster
Park Tool's video on Shimano drop bar brake bleeding has top to bottom procedure starting at around 6:15
Simply the best "how to" on brake installation/bleeding! Thank you!
I wish every tutorial would be like this one - stylish and clear
Mate your videos are so complete and clear. Invaluable. Thanks!
I've just gone through ~15 vids on disc brakes setup... this one by far the best!
Thank you so much!
Cheers mate!
Helped by this video on 2022! And that jazzy background music…always with class.
All other videos only do the first part and I would wonder why my lever wouldn't get any firmer, thanks to you now it's great thank you so much!
Related to hydraulic brake, this is the best video I've ever seen!
TOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
About to do the transition from RS785 to R9170, this video is super helpful, love your content. Many thanks!
Eliot Roberts super happy to hear that!
Good luck with the transition!
Hello. Will you be using the R9170 with r785 calipers? Bh59 hoses?
Dude! I still come to this video when I need to bleed my own brakes. This is what I call evergreen content lol. Thanks bud.
yup, back here for the third time myself!
Came across your build series....about to start my own little build. Following all your guidance! 👍👍
R Xie good luck mate!
Clear and concise. No wasted fluff
The most beautiful “how to” video I’ve ever watched!
Thank you for a great instructional video. This was super helpful and enabled me to do this for the first.
You were the only vid I could find for a dry bleed. Thanks! If you have GRX I’d love to see that specifically
Apart from the bleed port location the method should be exactly the same.
Cheers!
Excellent video! Well shot and edited. More importantly, I could manage my shift from mechanical to hydraulic for the first time without any flaws. Thanks for the help!
Awesome, happy you found it helpful 🙏
I will bet bike shop mechanics are making a fortune installing and maintaining these braking systems.I for one will stick with my standard sidepull caliper brakes.I applaud the guy who did this video though.
Awesome video! Some really useful tips, like removing the caliper/lever to make installing the hose easier. Cheers fella!
Great job on this very thorough beginning to end installation, bravo!
Thanks for this video! Watching it now in July 2020. Very useful and helpful as I am bleeding brakes for the first time and am having trouble because air has obviously got trapped in the cable. I will go and try again!
Richard M good luck mate!
Cheers!
Thanks for making this video, just what I needed for fitting some GRX levers 👍🏼
chill and relaxing vid. enjoyed it 4 sure
Great video and the music certainly helps with what is quite a stressful process the first time done.
I just wish I'd seen it earlier: I over-tightened the bleed screw and stripped it...
It's much too easy to do this with such a tiny aluminium hex bolt, so I assume it really does not need to be fastened tight at all.
Fortunately there is enough 'outside' of the screw-head clear of the lever body for a small pair of pliers to get sufficient grip on it. But it took a lot of profanity before I realised this.
I'd also advise against using a ball-headed allen key on the bleed screw, it seems to make the slipping/ stripping problem worse. Flat-sided, and inserted as straight and deep as possible.
100% agree! I can add that even my "expensive" hex set has a slight curve on the non-ball end side that can cause trouble. Now I always use a really cheap set of small hex keys that at totally flat on both ends.
Like you say, it doesn't need to be that tight at all, it's probably the rubber O-ring that keeps it sealed rater than the actual screw.
Cheers!
Stumbled upon this after watching the rotor installation video from Park Tools and they recommend to not put grease for the rotor and centerlock lockring. But as long as you are careful to not contaminate the rotors, I don't see why not to put grease there as explained in this video
The axles that are pretty much at the same distance from the rotor as the centerlock are, are full of grease. I agree, if you're careful when applying the grease and when cleaning it isn't a problem
Adam, this is a real help for so many people. Brilliant.
Trace Velo recommended your video.
Great tutorial!
Thanks. That was helpful!
I like the bag idea! Thanks.
thank you so much for the info and links in this vid. i have been searching every where to find the right set to bleed these brakes.
vincem5 don’t forget that you need that funnel adapter as well if you don’t already have it.
Rides of Japan that’s exactly the part I was looking for everywhere. Wondering how do I screw the cup on🤔 thanks again 👍🏼
Superb video!!! Gave me confidence that I can install this myself
Good luck👍
@@ridesofjapan thanks a lot!
how you not get a million subs
congratulation you got a new subscriber
Thank you! 🙏
Brenton Collas Sorry mate, I was going to reply to your comment, and accidentally pressed the delete button!
Anyway, you don't need the funnel adapter with the 785 STI levers! They do however use the BH50 hose (bh90 used on the new 9170/8070)
Just wat I was looking for, thanks, cheers, happy riding.
Love the Jazz background music too !!
Finally someone who knows always grease any connecting bike parts!!
Most important tip of this video.. do now overtighten. You are better off checking your brakes for leaking over the next few days than over tighten it. I had to buy a new shifter because of this problem. the threads inside the shifter is made of cheap plastic/alum or whatever the crap it is. I wish shimano made the fill port like their older models with real metal and very hard to strip
If you're not getting paid to do this kind of thing you should. Amazing work. I haven't searched but I hope you have a video on how to setup/route the Di2 cables and derailleurs.
Thanks David! During the last 5 months the ads on my videos has generated about $10 haha. Luckily I make videos for fun not for money, so it's all good. Much more rewarding to hear that you guys find the videos helpful. I have not done any Di2 routing video apart from the handlebar junction unfortunately but that's a good idea, will remember it for next time I'm messing around with Di2 or building up a new frame. Thanks again!
Shimano has great tool for cutting brake hoses and installing inserts (TL-BH62). It makes that job easy. btw, you making great videos =)
+massionmassii thank you!
yes, I've seen it as well. Did not really feel it was necessary as I do this once or twice per year. But good to know that it is an option! Thanks for sharing!
That was super helpful. Excellent video production quality too! Thank you!
+Greg Janikian thank you for those kind words. Very happy you found it helpful!
This video about this subject is awesome!
This is a REALLY GOOD video!!
Thanks for sharing!
This is awesome! Now I have something to go by for my next bike :)
Super helpful, thank you!
im gonna do it tommorow , after this video it looks like to make a tea :) very nice :)
Lighten up on the shifter screw, it is only an o-ring that is compressed. ~0.7Nm
Awesome and very detailed! Just what I needed. Thank you so much!!!
Thanks for the video! Now I'm not afraid to buy a new STI hydraulic lever :)
Great Video! Any tips on how to bleed the Rear Brake to avoid sponginess? do I simply tilt the front of the bike upward on the bike stand to position the Rear Brake to the Lowest Point possible during the bleed? Thank you in advance!
Very nice & instructive video - as always.
@1:40, the bolts provided with Ultegra R8070 are way too long for my bokeh frame. Should I look for shorter bolts or work with spacers? Thanks and keep up the good work!
MaPo depends on how long they are? I I used spacers in my Bokeh as well, maybe 5mm or there about. You don’t really want to have them stick out too far underneath.
You can also buy those bolts on amazon, this is the one for 15mm stays
amzn.to/2FettUE
Don’t remember exactly which length the Bokeh required.
Cheers!
Great help! I have the Ultegra version which have the bolts already in the levers with a yellow stopping valve. I'm presuming there's liquid in them already. The cables are already attached to the callipers and sealed. I'm not really sure how to approach getting the stopper and bolts out of the levers and attaching to the cables?
great video and I like the music too
Great great great video.👍🏼
Thank you bro for this amazing video👍👍
Interesting.
Why not wiping any fluid before putting the bleed screw back in? I always did that, whats wrong with it? Thanks in advance.
You basically want to have it overflowing as you close the bleed screw to prevent any air getting trapped.
Thanks heaps for this video, super useful and easy to follow! Managed my first brake bleed without issue. Noticed my pads are getting a bit lower (nothing dire), so started searching for new pads. Couldn't find Shimano lo3a pads anywhere (or basically any Shimano pads). I live in Japan, and in Tokyo, but that doesn't seem to help. Any thoughts on suitable replacements for the lo3a pads?
I got word from my LBS that Shimano is replacing L03A with a new pad L04a (probably look exactly the same) but probably still be a while before it’s out I reckon.
Any pad that fit the Shimano flat mount is better than nothing, but I haven’t personally tested any of them so can’t give you a recommendation sorry.
@@ridesofjapan much appreciated. Will see what the LBS suggests…
Another great video. Helped me so much! 👌🏻thanks
H Berlin happy to hear you found it helpful! Cheers!
Swapping out ST-R785 shifters and BR-RS805 calibers for ST-R9170 and BR-R9170, would the same hydraulic cables be re-usable?
According to Shimano, they say you should use the BH90 cables with 9170/8070 rather than the BH59 that are specced for the 785/805. I haven't tried using any other combination so can't confirm or deny if it will cause any problems.
One thing to keep in mind though, is that the Hose nut you need for the 9170/8070 levers only comes with the BH90 road hose kit.
From what i know the BH90 have a bigger diameter to push more/easier fluid. shimano adopted the MTB stuff to road here. in theorey it should work with the old cable, too, but you need to buy the new hose nut seperatly then.
Hi! Great video, just got one question. I'm building a bike from scratch with Ultegra R8070. How do you recommend me to measure hydraulic cable lengths since I don't have the old ones to compare? Thanks.
I would thread the full length hose through the frame, then secure it at the point where it would be at the rear brake caliper. Take the other end and hold it against the handlebar (or even tape it down if necessary) then turn the handlebar in both directions and make sure you have enough slack so the bars can turn freely.
Like I do @ 0:27 in this video.
Hope that helps
@@ridesofjapan Thank you!!!! I'm really excited about the build!
Jernej Markovc Nice mate, nothing like building up your own bike 👍Good luck!
Did you found the hood a little loose? Or I'm just an unlucky guy?
My R8070 right hood get loose just after I rolled the hood from front. Replaced with a new hood and everything is fine.
Same happened for my old RS685 while it takes several months to happen.
Adam Queen yeah, they tend to not be as tight after you pull it back the first time... not a big issue for me, they seem to “pop back” in to place one you start riding I’ve found.
Not had the need to replace one yet.
Glad to know that, I'd ride hundreds kilos to see if it get better.
Belle vidéo, clair et efficace, merci.
Great Video! Just curious if I do take out the hydraulic hose from levers after installation do I need to rebleed etc? I am only asking cause I dont have a bleed kit and would like to change bars.
Thanks! Most likely you need to rebleed as air might sneak in to the system. You will know once you connect everything again... when you disconnect make sure you don't squeeze the levers.
If the lever feel "spongey" when reconnected, then it's probably best to rebleed.
Btw, unless you're handlebars are internally routed you shouldn’t have to disconnect the hoses.
Thanks! Yeah I am taking out the internally routed ready bars for a custom paint job and figure I try to do it myself without bringing it to the shop. Guess I best buy the bleed kit.. Btw are Sram bleed kit and shimano bleeding systems compatible other then using diff oils
The way you bleed them are quite different... you could probably hack your way using sram syringes with Shimano, but not the other way around. Shimano are way simpler to bleed as you don't really need syringes.
Wish I'd found this video earlier!
Especially before I did round off the bleed screw head.
Looks like its a really common problem, they are ssssooo soft its madness.
Awesome video. Thank you!
Thanks! Beside Amazon, what online store do you recommend to buy the parts? (DURA-ACE DI2 9170)
You're local bike store :)
Shimano is Geo blocked so I can't get any shimano products shipped from any online store outside of Japan.
Hey, I am buying a Canyon Endurace CF SL with Di2. It doesn't come with a hidden junction box though, and I see the SLX with the integrated handlebars still has the junction box beneath the stem. What bars are you using here on your Endurace (I assume it is), and would you recommend them.
thesalkin I think is was named “h31 ergobar” or something like that, a few year ago now.
I put the junction box under the Computer mount that kept it well hidden. Until I got the handlebar end junction, then I drilled the handlebar the same way I’ve show in this video: ua-cam.com/video/cON3w1IL_7k/v-deo.html
@@ridesofjapan Oh great! I was wondering if it would be too much of a risk to drill carbon handlebars. Thanks a lot, your videos are really informative and/or entertaining, and you're always helpful in the comments, very much appreciate your content!
thesalkin cheers mate! Happy to help!
How much lever movement did you turn out with before the brakes grabbed? I know you can adjust the reach and free stroke on these levers but mine seem to have a lot more "distance travel" toward the handlebar than my old 785 levers did?! The brakes work fine, but there is just a lot of travel. Do yours feel like they have a longer pull as well?
Brian Smith, hmmm no, I think it was about the same feel if not a tad better... was a while ago now I used the 785 so can’t say for sure. I always liked a lot of travel on my levers though.
Check my reach and free stroke video, I have mine set to minimum free stroke and about middle reach....
ua-cam.com/video/9TkudgYe0EY/v-deo.html
maybe you can compare yours to the travel in that video.
11:21 What is the torque requirement for tightening the front break mounting bolts on a carbon fork. According to Shimano manual 6-8 Nm is needed but i think that's too much. Great Video, thanks.
Litening Pedals you should be okay with the Shimano specs unless the framemaker specifically states something else. I’m usually in the 5-7 range.
Thank you
Since when is Tom Boonen doing how to videos??? :)
We use them. Excellent.
Spot on.
i would like to replace the brake calipers only. should i use new "olive" ring and hose insert at the existing brake line? or should i also change the brake line with a new one?
Alex Ioannides To be sure that it will be a tight seal I would cut of the old insert/olive and install a new one. No need to change the hose as long as it is long enough and the new caliper can use the same hose (In Shimano’s case SM-HB90 and SM-HB59)
did you use the full two bottles of fluid for the install? I'm starting with a dry system like you (with used parts) and I'm wondering how much fluid I should buy, and I still haven't found info on the volume of fluid the system contains
Jean-François Morissette if you’re lucky you could get away with just one bottle, but I wouldn’t risk it... get two just in case, you will need it eventually when re-bleeding. Not very expensive either.
Personally I got one of the big bottles, should last me a good couple of years :)
Thanks for the answer! I'll go with the bigger bottle then. cheers!
What kind of fluid?
Dust2dust02 Shimano only uses mineral oil
EXCELLENT video...subscribed🤘🚴♂️🤘
Rides of Japan thanks a lot for the excellent video! If I only want to change the calipers should I drain the system of oil beforehand? Can I do that by simply attaching a hose to the bleed nipple, opening the port and letting the fluid come out by squeezing the lever a few times? Or how would I do that best? I'm afraid that if I just remove the caliper all the oil from the brake hose will spill on the floor. Any other suggestion for replacing calipers is also very welcome :). Thanks!
Paolo Capozzi unless you need to change the hoses as well (for example if they will be too short when cutting and putting on a new inserts/olives) you should not need to drain the system at all.
I would just unscrew the hose from the caliper, just keep something underneath for the few drops that will inevitably come out. But since the bleed screw in the lever is closed and no air can enter from above, the fluid should stay in the system.
Cut the hoses as near the inserts as possible... then tap in the new one (this might be the most complicated step as the hoses are still attached to the frame.)
After that’s done, attach the new caliper and do a normal bleed.
If you want to drain it anyway though what you said should work, just open bleed port on the caliper and the bleed screw up at the lever.
Rides of Japan thanks for the answer! Indeed it makes sense there will be no oil drop if the lever screw is closed. However I don't understand why I would need to cut the hoses before inserting them into the new calipers? The new calipers are exactly the same model as the old ones that I want to replace (BR-RS805, of an Ultegra group set) so I would assume the length of the hose should stay the same. But I have to admit I've never even bled disc brakes before so I lack a bit of experience in this respect :). Once again, many thanks for your help!
Paolo Capozzi
According to Shimano the olive and insert are a one-time use item... annoyingly.
From shimano:
"Do not reuse the olive piece or the connector insert when reinstalling. A damaged or reused olive, or connector insert, may not provide a secure brake hose connection, possibly causing the brake hose to disconnect from the calipers or brake lever."
That being said, I have actually done this once then I forgot to attach a cable port once...without any problem... however I would not be comfortable recommend this, for the above stated reasons.
Rides of Japan thanks for the clarification. Indeed rather annoying...unless the component is damaged or needs to be somehow "deformed" to get into position I don't see the reason of changing those pieces. but thanks a lot for pointing it out! Shimano might have its good reasons for specifying this.
Yes, normally I reckon it will be fine, just keep an eye on the connection, if there’s no indication of oil leakage you should be ok.
Hi, love your videos. Do you know how to adjust the new 105 disc STI to get the breakting point earlyer? At the moment I can pull the lever to far to the handlebar...
Sound like you still need to bleed the brakes a bit more if you can pull the lever all the way to the handle bar.
Put an extra drop of mineral oil into the bleed port on the lever once you have removed the bleed funnel, just to make sure not air sneaks in when putting back the bleed screw.
Did you fit the Di2 cable through the same opening as the brake hoses? Thinking about converting a mechanical canyon endurance to Di2 ... I won't think the cable will fit through the gear cable openings.
Horstelin This frame was di2 specific and was made to take the brake hose and the di2 cable through the same hole with a combo-insert.
Rides of Japan ah ok I guess I will have to solder to make it fit... Too bad those R8020 STIs are so damn bulky
Horstelin oh wait a minute! I confused this with another frame I had!
There was a separate port for the di2 on this endurace, but I manage to get both the hose and the di2 cable through the same hole by modifying the frame insert... just needed to make the “slit” in the inserts big enough to squeeze the di2 cable in.
Unfortunately I don’t have this frame anymore so can’t show exactly how I did it.
That are great news, thank you! I guess I need to start saving for the new groupset.. :)
Don't mean to cut down di2 I think their shifting system is great. But if you have an older bike with out the wire plumbing ports, just go Sram wireless e-tap, and while you're at it go WiFli. No wires no battery containers "NADA PINATA", just clean as a whistle.
Great video, how often do you change brake hose when first installed ?
Thanks! Unless I'm changing shifters or calipers, I would never change the brake hoses. I would however bleed the brakes about once per year or if the lever starts feeling weird.
Rides of Japan great video.
My question:
I’m upgrading my levers&calipers.
Would you change hoses in this instance?
They are ca. Year old and in perfect condition.
What say you?
Do you know the code ore where is possible to buy the adapter for the bleed funne?
Thanks for this useful video
Seems like you can buy it on amazon now amzn.to/2HxCaae
very nice video!
Thanks for great instruction. Now.. what should I do if I actually overtightened bleed screw and messed it up?; help plz.. TIA
Did you totally strip the head?
If you still have some edges left, find a hex-key that don't have a rounded tip.... that rounded tip on the more expansive ones did almost destroyed my screw.
I found non rounded ones in one of those "cheap" multi-tool kits...
Another tip would be to find a small enough torx key witch is also a common tip for damaged hex crews.... wonder if they make em that small though.
Rides of Japan tnx for the tip. I think i totally stripped the tip. Since i had bh59 with rs 685? And replaced with bh90 with r8070, i opened and closed bleed screw at least 4 times during the learning curve. I mean replacing is one thing but how do i close it after final bleeding? It seems inevitable that i need to go get a new screw huh? Do u think normal bike shops in the us will have replaceable screws? Since r8070 parts r really hard to find due to low supply, i ordered from uk and germany and US shops. Smh about my dumbness and lack of skillset...
Yes, I would get a new screw just to be sure. If your LSB don'T have them in stock they can surly order them. The part number is Y0C698030. (Did a quick google search and there seem to be a few sites selling them)
As I learned too, you don't actually need to close it that tight, the O-ring is what is keeping it from leaking.
I mess up all the time, that's what we learn from :P I semi-striped one of my bleed screws, and order two new just to be safe. They are available online here in Japan.
Rides of Japan tnx again for ur prompt answer. Just subscribed as well :) plz keep uploading DIY videos so i can learn more-!
Jonathon Lee thanks man! Got a few tips to share in the pipeline :)
Think you could redo this one in your modern quality Tobbe?
Patch Hofweber once the new DA 12speed di2 is out, definitely ;)
How did you get the olive over the barb? or did you just leave the barb installation part out?
1:05 barb installation
1:55 olive just slides over after the hose nut
My Ultegra R8070 Di2 Disc groupset came in today (not sure if it came with olives/insert ready). Where did you purchase your olives and insert?
Edit: Nvm it came with a built-in olive. I just have to remove the seal plug, insert the hose into the joint component, and tighten the flanged connecting bolt with an 8mm spanner while pushing in the brake hose. Picture for reference: imgur.com/a/lVwMRs3
Oh, have not seen that before, they must have started with that solution on the R8070 then? Very nice either way!
For future purposes, I just get my olive/inserts from amazon, always have a few spares set at home just in case
amzn.to/2JxsRH9
How does Canyon feels compared to Open UP?
I just want to replace my rear caliper due to cosmetic scratches. Everything works fine. Do I need to bleed after the installation?
Jovian Pesik most likely yes.
I have a new 785s and one issue. It is too much 'freestroke' feeling and large levers movement until they bites disks.
I've bled these things several times with all the tricks (according your video). No air in system! The free stroke adjustment is all the way in (least free stroke) but the lever still moves 25mm before pads full engage. Do you have same problem with your old 785s?
You can use a smaller bleed block. Original it is 10mm. You can use 9mm or 9.5mm. you can make a bleed block by yourself from metal , wood,...
@@arnopauwels8945 nice try, but ... same same. Used 9,5 mm block custom made. Still to much lever movement :( Thanks for idea.
@@61vik you can try 8.5mm. I had the same problem. And how smaller the bleed block, the pistons coms more out. It's the only way it works. Succes
love your video, it is awsome
とてもわかりやすいです！！ブレーキホースを変えたらキャリパーだけsaint820っていうのも可能ですよね？？
+Ride Lines ありがとうございました！
自分は試したことないから、可能と言えないですが、Saint820もsm-bh90のホースを使ってるので、多分大丈夫だと思います。
Rides of Japan 返信ありがとうございます！この動画でも同じブレーキホース使ってるのですか？
ロードバイクの油圧ホースってガツンと効かないように柔らかめのブレーキホースを使ってると聞いたのですが、本当ですか？
そうですね。ホース自体は同じですがSaint820のコネクターが違いますね。
Rides of Japan 色々詳しく教えていただきありがとうございます！
とても参考になりました！
Awesome vid! Thanks!😀
Do you really need to fill the system with oil to the top ? With the older génération (R785) if you did this the oil would leak somewhere to prevent overfilling
Yes to avoid having air in the system you need to fill it to the top (into the funnel)
@@ridesofjapan okay thank you !
Imagine being stuck in a dark room and having to listen to this background music all day.
thanks for the vid! and i like the vid style
Hi! thanks for the video!!
I get a firm leaver after bleeding but when I put the wheel back the leaver becomes loose again, how can I fix this?
Was it still firm directly after the bleed? and then got loose again?
If it's loose right after bleeding there's probably still air in the system, so try blending again.
If it was feeling ok but then got loose after a few hours check so that the hose connections are dry (no leaking)
also check the caliper pistons if you see any leaking oil.
@@ridesofjapan It was firm straight after the bleed when I removed the brake block and installed the wheel the leaver became a lot looser. is that normal?
Theodoros Chatzis yes, that is normal.
once you remove the blocks and put the brake pads in and the wheel, you will need to pump the brake lever a few times to push the pistons out to the correct position.
If you just keep pumping the lever you should feel them firm up again once the brake pads hits the rotors 👍
Great vid, thank you.
Hi, great videos! Do you know the size of the bolts for the rear caliper you use here? Im building the same canyon bike and I have the calper bolts from an older bike and I dont know if they will work! thanks in advance!
EmiTT thanks!
I don’t have that frame anymore, but I want to say the bolt where 30mm, not 100% sure though.... if they are too long you can always use shims.
Rides of Japan Yes, shims could work indeed! I'm too in a road to Dura ace :) one last question, I'm using 9170 shifters but 805 calipers, any experience on that? Bh90 hose, olive and instert on caliper and shifters? Keep up with the videos, really good!
+EmiTT I went all dura ace 9170 so have not tried that particular combination.
A friend of mine use the 9170 shifters with non-series calipers and bh90 hoses, and I have not heard any complaints.
Just make sure you have the correct inserts and olives for the hose.
Rides of Japan yes, I'll put bh90 hose, insert and olives. Let's see. My worry was using bh90 olive in a bh59 caliper. Thanks!
EmiTT asked my friend again and he said it works no problem 👍
This is the reason I am sticking with rim brakes
brilliant and soothing! :-)