WEN Update & Viewer TIP
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- Опубліковано 13 тра 2020
- I've used the WEN quite a bit and I see some thing I Don't like, Butt... Perhaps all is still good?
Also a couple viewers mentioned a technique to get around the strop problem I talked in the original Tormek/WEN review. Good Ideas get passed on.
Im a CNC machinist and use water soluble machine coolant instead of water. It has an anti rust additive, and lubricates better than water.
Is there a particular product brand you like the best?
@@gregglouis2969 castrol oil hysol 50 is what we use in my shop
Coat the washer and SHAFT with marine grease. You can get it at Wal Mart and it's cheap. I wouldn't use dielectric grease. Marine grease is formulated to withstand long term exposure to water, and especially salt water.
Coat the metal parts with dielectric grease. I recommend using it also on your breakfast cereal.
Add HoneRite Gold to your water, no more rust. I was thinking the same thing from day one on the 180 degree rotation on the strop, great use of the reversible direction. That was my solution as well.
May i suggest for those on a budget, if you can not afford the Tormek swivel tray instead buy a restaurant food tray. They are cheap, have a lip that will hold water if a spill occurs and will spin 180 fairly easy.
After one year I took off the stone. it came off easily with only light rust. its not a problem. And my stones stay wet the whole time. I also looked at the gears and they have only slight wear as they mate together better.
Thanks for the update, i have thought about getting one after seeing your videos. I generally would use Permatex aluminum anti seize where moisture or different metals is an issue and being a hobbyist it will last long time.
Thanks for the tip.
I finally bought one from Lowes for $106 including tax with vet discount. Use is for wood working tools and getting a hollow grind on chisels and planes without the metal filings from a dry grinder on the floor.
Hey! Was just curious what happened to your vids. They were all great info!
I just got my WEN in today, but haven’t had a chance to put it together. I felt the stone briefly and it felt way rougher than 220. I did order the Tormek grading stone but not the dressing tool (since I wasn’t ready to spend anymore $$ yet). Before i start sharpening I’m planning to use the stone on the wheel.
Watch my video called Grading stone hack. Or use wet/dry sandpaper. Perhaps 220 grit for course and 800 for fine.
Good call. Im guessing thats the stuff used in commercial large wet stones water baths. Can your hands be in that stuff all day?
Where's the next video?!
Thank you for your honest review of the Wen. I know many people will always opt for the cheaper Chinese made option if it performs well. I would be curious the cost over 10 years of heavy use on the Wen compared to the Tormek. I know several people have the same Tormek after 15 years of use. I would be willing to bet the two compared wouldn't be that far apart in overall cost. Especially if you end up buying several Tormek parts to compliment the Wen.
So far after a couple thousand knives it’s running good except for the rusting axel under the stone. I’ve greased it now and that should help. The reality of these are most probably get used very little. And indeed you’re right about tormek being that much more once you’re all in.
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER I think I have watched all your videos trying to learn as much as I can. Could you possibly do one using your tormek or wen doing recurved blades?
Dan R sorry but probably no on that. I’m not planning any more videos as of now. But the trick is to ease the outer edges of the stone a touch. Not rounding but a slight slope 3/16” from edge. It can be less than you think. Then use a smooth pass across the edge. Almost flat but not quite flat. I am able to actually smooth out miss sharpened hookbill knives. Be careful not to round the tip. It’s best to stop pushing down when you are close to the tip. Watch my CBN video. Perhaps you might see something that might help. I’m talking about hook bill pairing knife in it.
Will the tormek wheels fit on the wen sharpener
I get the advantage of cheaper parts, but still, you get what you pay for. For doing production work I'm a little surprised you bother with it. Have you tried Grizzly? I'm thinking that if I were really trying to save money over the Tormek I'd look closely at the Griz. Appreciate your vids.
Remember my Tormek is my heavy hitter. I lean on it hard. And the hands down reason is forward/rev. I’m nesting three tools together and picking the side that has the stone was key. The WEN has the 4000 grit stone It’s very little force transmitted to the drive system. And I have had Tormek replacement parts needed as well. To buy 3 off/on switch cost what the Wen cost. I’ve had 2, then bypassed it. Trays break and drive wheel crack. So it’s not perfect either and parts are far more $$. Over time I might change my mind but it’s working well now.
Thanks for the comments
Really like your videos. Thinking about getting a wen sharpener based on your feedback. Quick question, would you recommend the wen jig set? Or get the tormek knife jig? Hoping to see another video soon!!
Wen does not have jigs as far as I know. I inquired and they said other brands have them so wen wasn’t selling them. If you buy non tormek jigs make sure you can return if they suck. Tormek makes very good quality at twice the price they should cost. I only use tormek trueing jig and chisel jig. I freehand knives but I guess that jig is needed when starting. Also the angle finder is a must. Wen’s is bad.
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER these are this one's I'm referring to:. www.amazon.com/dp/B087D58LNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aVLMFbBSY8K3F
@@robertblaser9899 I didn’t know they offered them. Almost exactly like tormek at a great price. Items not in that set is a trying jig and the angle finder. Look to see if they offer them.
Do you know if tormeks leather wheel accessory LA120 will work on the wen machine. Was wondering if the threads were the same. I bought the drill bit sharpener and thought that would be good for removing the bur on bits
It's a keyway/pin design on both. But if they fit I haven't tried and I don't have a leather strop wheel for the tormek anymore to test out. I would be suprised if they matched.
Just brought a SABRE, same machine as your WEN, $349, but I'm in AUSTRALIA and prices down here are stupid, like the machine a
I'm retired and sharpen for pocket money really, $4.00 a blade.
The machine is good though , and solid , previous machine was a SCHAPPECH, Chinese copy , lasted 5 years , but was a rough build compared to the WEN / SABRE.
Could you paint it? Is there a way to replace it with a stainless part? Otherwise I assume you need to remove the stone after use everytime.
I would just let it go. If it gives you trouble throw down the $14 and unscrew the top.
I expect No room for paint, perhaps grease?
I really would not worry. Parts are cheap if it’s needed.
Cool tips... Thanks. I bet one could find a way to add a magnet to the water reservoir to attract the shavings to avoid buildup? Just a thought.
Easy. Tormek’s magnet is on the outside. But that would not help the rust. The washer had rust. The shaft had oxidation only. I’ll look again when I need to change the stone in 4-5 months
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER sorry should have clarified. I wasn't referring to fixing your current issue, just a suggestion to help keep metal shavings debris from congregating on wheel.
On my Tormek the tray each day has metal filing where the magnet sits. The tray bottom is covered with sludge. I figure is the fine slurry coming off the wheel the metal will also sink. I don’t see the advantage of collecting them at one end. Ps my WEN has the 4000 grit. The metal loads the wheel not the tray. Bummer with that fact.
I wish. But it’s like a pencil riding on the wheel. It’s not loose at all. I put scotch bright under the wheel in the tray. It helps clean the worst bit. Tormek says stop and clean every 2 minutes. I can get away doing it far less. 10-20 minutes
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER good to know... Thanks for the tips.
Turn it around and spin it the other way?
Quick question on the rotation direction when sharpening...some videos I've seen of the Wen and the Tormek show people sharpening with the stone turning into the cutting edge of the blade while I notice you (and some others) sharpen with the blade turning away from the cutting edge (I hope I'm explaining it in a way that makes sense). One way it's like you're cutting into the stone and the other is opposite. What guidance can you provide on stone rotation, as well as any benefits of either method? I have the Wen on order and am excited to try it out when it arrives. Thanks!
When freehand it’s best/easier to have the wheels turn away. For polishing it’s a must. Safer to be consistent.
And many of the best hand sharpeners finish the last few strokes pulling the edge across the stone. Even fine stones are particles of grit and you dont want to push the edge into the grit. But you can go either direction.
I have had a knife actually stick into a tormek stone 1/8” once when using a jig, rotating the stone into the edge. I lost concentration and the stone pushed the knife jig up the tool rest till the jigs locking knob jammed against the tool rest and the knife edge actually penetrated the stone. Surprisingly the knife was fine. These stones are softer than you think.
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER - Thank you very much for the quick and detailed reply!
I'm surprised you didn't recommend just using a (board) strop. Good info. Thanks.
I (when not in shutdown) sharpen a lot of knives. Average 100 per work day. Useing a felt wheel is just faster.
Understand
why not just make an extension on the axle, and accordingly move the polishing wheel further?
Did the Japanese stone fit on the axle ok or did you have to bore it out? The wen states it’s a 1/2” axle which is slightly more than the 12mm bore. Im guessing it just worked? I’m hoping at least, as I’d like to do a similar setup.
Fits fine. I’ve now have 2 wens and retired my tormek. I moved the tormeks tool rest mounts to the wen so I can use tormek tool rest. Tormek needed to many replacement parts and it was rusting out.
for my wen, i simply take the wheel off after use, wipe the machine down, and hit the washers and bearing on the "wet" side with a spritz of WD-40. i suppose you could even use some thin white lithium grease for the bearings and shaft if you wanted. the only problem with using grease and oil that i can see would be if it got onto your wheels.
Actually I’ve had several stones on my wen they all come off with little trouble much to my surprise.
Hey Peter, one possible fix MIGHT be something like Cerakote. Look er up. But it is super durable, sprayed and baked finish that has water and chem resistance and slight lubricity AND it is super thin (about a thou) , and if thered be an easy way to get the shaft out, no doubt, you could find someone who could tack it on to another job that was likely to have residual cerakote. Its likely that someone near you is already doing this kind of work, typically for firearms, but the uses are limitless. Good luck! Thinking about starting a local sharpening company myself to help pay for shop tools :)
Thanks for the tip. Keep watching I’m thinking of doing a series on sharpening business, there’s several ways to do it. Big or small
Peter G I’ve only been using the MDF wheels with white polishing compound. It works pretty well for edges that aren’t damaged. Thinking of getting a slow speed CBN wheel since I am a wood turner as well.
Check out (jochanan )‘s. post here. He used 80 and 600 grit cbn
Peter G ya. Saw that. Looks like 80 grit is pretty coarse. I spoke with the owner at wood turning wonders and he recommended 180 and 600.
I agree with those grits as well
Is nickel-plating that shaft and washer an option, do you think? You’d have to cover up the threads, I suppose.
Just don’t worry about it. Worst case you buy a new shaft for a few bucks. And that’s if it’s ever a actual problem.
What’s the difference between bg4270T and just bg4270? Big price difference. And how does it sharpen dry?
I don’t know. But the secondary market price hikes are in effect I think. Call wen’s customer service and ask about supply’s and retail price.
I have a Wen grinder also, but I live in a cold winter climate and the wheel gets stuck and cracks. I'm assuming it's from using water then it freezes. But I did learn after my wheel cracked and don't use water in the winter.
Antifreeze for these stones can be used. Not sure if it’s different than auto antifreeze.
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER auto antifreeze has a slippery feeling, it could be beneficial, but I have decided just to not use water in it in the winter.
In the near future I’m reviewing can wheels. No water
Can you mount the tormek diamond wheel? Not cheap I know
Mount on Wen? Sure. The only change is to add a washer or 4 to compensate for tormek’s slimmer center.
Antiseize or grease and it will slow the rusting down.
You could use emulsified coolant. There's rust inhibitors in it. Although the white organic stuff which is what we used for cooling grinders does have a tendency to go rancid after a while. Which is kind of nasty. It ends up smelling a bit like sour milk. We called it milk because that's what it looks like on a good day. I always prefered the pink synthetic myself. But for whatever reason that's not what we used grinding.
Or you could turn the unit around to do the other side
How about trying to spray the shaft, with silicone spray to help protect those galvanized parts from rusting, if they are galvanized, I’m wondering if that would work for longevity reasons. What do you think?
The stone rubs the shaft some. I just put on my second SJ250 stone and the shafts didn’t fully corrode and lock on to the old stone, thank god. I greased the shaft and we’ll see what happens in 10 months when this stone is worn out. The parts are so cheap I might just replace it every couple years. I use mine 15 hr per week run time so it gets heavy use.
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER That’s good I figured some kind of fan lubricant on that shaft might help prevent it from corroding thanks for responding right
Using nylon is a safety feature since it will strip if the wheel gets jammed. If all the gears were metal then a jam could strip the motor shaft, or burn the motor windings. You'll find nylon gears on many appliances. Sewing machine, vacuum cleaner, etc. I'm a hobbyist and will never buy a Tormek since it costs too much. But I'll likely by the Wen.
Also it really quiets it down. I have a horizontal wet grinder from Japan and its gears are all metal and it really has a grinding noise.
Would you run a diamond wheel on it and which one?
I’ve only tried cbn wheels a couple times. I find the size matching on both wheels I use a real plus but they just weren’t as fast. I think it’s the fewer points of contact with the grit on these wheels. That said if you’re running dry or with a spray you can run faster making up the difference. If you’re tool has speed control. Mine don’t.
I have been considering trying a new tool that looks promising but $$$
It’s the Edge Apex Knife Sharpening WorkStation, by cuttermasters
Speed control and its reversible so edge leading and trailing work.
They offer test drive.
P G, what about keeping a light coat of grease on that shaft, washer, and shaft seal entrance? Maybe even something like BoeSheild.
The rust is under the stone. Guess it scratches the shaft.
Clean that shaft up and put a good coat of “Ultra Tef-Gel” gel on it. I’ve used it a lot on fasteners on boats subject to salt water. It is a great protectorate, and anti-seize.
Can you tell me what is the on-center distance for the mounts on the unit for the support bracket?
I’m not understanding what you want a measurement of. Sorry. Ask with more details
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER I'm curious if the Wen can accept all the attachments and support brackets of the Tormek. I have come into possession of a Jet Wet Sharpener but it seems that the Jet is not made anymore I would like to start out using the supports and guides and what I'm really wondering is if the parts of the Jet are compatible with the Wen and Tormek. Eventually maybe I will try and do it freehand like you do.
I use honerite in my water, yet still think this will severely shorten the lifespan. I hope to get at least 3 years of use from mine. I’ve ordered/received a spare water reservoir already just because I know I’ll break one at some point.
My WEN arrived with a chip on the edge of the grinding wheel, I made 1 call to customer service and they immediately shipped me an additional grinding wheel.
I’m coming up to two years. No problem. No rust. It’s used 15 hr. Per week. My tormek is getting worn out. Large deep patches of rust and plastic bushings s as re worn out.
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER see my comment also on your first of the two vids... thanks for the effort putting these out.
Why do you need to turn the Wen around when you reverse the strop wheel? Why not just keep it where it is and strop the other side of the knife at the top of the wheel?
Yeah, yeah yeah I know I know everybody’s told me. I somehow missed that but you’re right you’re absolutely right. Thx
Look up Corban 27L. It's an anti-corrosion grease, and works great for water/rust protection. It wouldn't be used in the aviation industry if it was trash.
Hey Pete, Is your WEN BG4270 still in service? Have you had to replace any parts to keep it going? WEN has reasonably priced replacement parts available on their website and free shipping on $25 purchase.
-Bill
Still running, no parts. But I drove my trailer with the nut off. Oops! The stone slid to end of shaft. Bent it a bit. No need to replace. But I’ve decided the stone is not as good as a good sg250. Doesn’t hold grit as well and cuts slower. But my last 4 tormeks sg250s quickly go out of round. See my video on trueing. It makes me change every 4 months
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER Just on the WEN site about to order a $12 water tray, dropped mine, it cracked, NFG. The 10" stone is $36 free shipping. You have production volume requirements for your business. With the issues you outlined, you still go with the SG250 at $200 Vs WEN at $36? With your volumes maybe CBN is in the future.
My friend lets me use his Tormek truing tool, rarely required. With my DIY use (and helping a few friends) I'll probably never need another stone unless it seizes to the shaft or I hose it up somehow.
Thanks
-Bill
@@biwwdabeah I’ve had concerns about the tray too. But then I’ve also replaced the tormek tray. But the cause was transportation damage before I had my trailer.
When I bought my sg250 a few weeks ago I’m seeing if they get better again. If it’s still bad I’ll try Jets stone. It’s had good reviews.
Problem at 7:50. Solution turn the Wen 180 degrees reverse the motor and your running the knife in the other direction.
Yea, I sharpened so many knives the same way I missed this little detail. Thx
why not just pop the big stone off when its time to use the stope ? @@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER
Can the side of the original stone that comes with the Wen be used to flatten the back of a chisel?
yes thats how you do it
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER would there be any reason a manufacture would say it is not recommend to use the side of the stone for flattening utensils
Kurt Pasewaldt I don’t know of any. It’s made from the same stuff.
Can the tormek support bar fit the wen?
No. The two posts have different spacing
Replace the washer with a stainless washer?
yea I thought of that but the lip it hooks on is so oddly thin I'm concerned it will mush over the lip. grade 8 washer is harder. Its been running 2 years and done over 15,000 knives with no problem so...
Thx for the thought.
Will the Tormek Japanese wet wheel ft the wen
yes. but you might have to add a washer since the tormek stones have an indented center
My motor seized today. Not too sure what the deal is. Hopefully customer service will be able to rectify the issue when I call them tomorrow.
Wen or Tormek? how old?
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER it's the Wen BG4270. Customer service suggested the capacitor. But a blown capacitor shouldn't seize the wheel. My next move will be removing the motor and seeing if it turns.
@@warrendeg or buy a new one for $120. I see some on Amazon for $125. The original one becomes a parts donor.
I haven’t had a hiccup with mine. But my tormeks has cancer rust in several areas and the plastic bushings are now oval shaped, switch is dead and 1/2 the stones wear uneven so I’m trueing a lot and heavy cuts. My last sg250 died before 4 months. My replacement is again running great butt..next?
@@warrendeg the gearing is pretty low. perhaps it can stop it. Open the yellow top and turn the worm gear.
@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER I took the motor out and tested it. Seems to be a bearings issue. I'll call and see if I can get a new motor on Monday.
Pura vida for your review Im reading comments below you could add grease but that sharpening system needs improve that design on that issues defects and regarding Chinese manufacture or los cost manufacture companies nowdays save a Lot money and don't thinks that manufacture obsolesnce products brings pollution and bad reputation on the brand name .if a particular brand like wen only low cost power tools with bad quality design for me means that the particular company isn't a reliable company with realible power tools catalogue I prefer pay môre for s power tools that don't need addicional cost of maintance and it is a obsolete product .pura vida guys and sorry for my English because it isnt my native language
It’s holding up well. 15,000 knives sharpened. It’s not the best by far but if you’re looking for a good enough home sharpening tool it works and costs 1/2 what a replacement sg250 stone cost
Thx
I'd buy all those parts and put them on the shelf in case they get discontinued.
Just buy another when the stone is used up.
I’ve been using this one for 8 months and sharpened probably 3000 knives. No problem at all.
You could try cold blueing the shaft then double protect it with marine grease. Here’s a link to cold blueing solution from Amazon:
Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue Finishing kit, Multi, One Size www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKELM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WNToFbA5XDSSW
Stainless washer, spray the shaft
You forgot the wheel goes both ways
Yes I did. Old habits. Check update video. I cop to my errors
Bolt machine to a kitchen table lazy susan with a stop for easy spinning.
Please make more sharpening videos
These sharpeners are so silly on the strapping side and being so compressed together that you can't work freely. You be better off getting to bearing journals and hooking up a motor to it putting them 15in apart. You could probably use polyurethane belt to drive it since you're not using that much pressure on the stones Oran the striping. To reverse the motor to turn around buying a swivel base seems a little silly to me!
Thanks for your advice. I sharpen so many knives I don’t want to “walk the line of tools” I stand in one spot. And I sharpen long carving knives, no problem
I’m sharpening about 120 knives on a good 5 hr day. And remember, wheels wear at different rates the exact positions allows for this to not be a problem with longer stuff.
Ceramic coating is the way to go. It will never rust or corrode and nothing will stick to it.
But no space. I just changed my stone. Rusty. But it came apart easy, thank god.
But for how well it runs I don’t see how they sell so cheap.
You get what you pay for. Wen parts may be cheap, but if you're down a week waiting on replacement parts, that lost income adds up to a lot more than a few bucks. It's times like that when you see the value in a well-made machine like the Tormek. Pay once, cry once! :)
That’s a valid way to look at it. But then again if you use it till the grind wheel is worn out, throw the whole thing in trash, and buy a new one. Then go out to dinner with the $60 you saved from not buying a replacement sg250 stone.
I’m almost at 1 year of heavy use and zero problems. Makes you think twice!
P.s. my tormek has heavy rust popping off paint in several locations. Eventually it will be the cause of needing to replace it. So it’s not a one and done.
There no subscribe button!🤣
Thanks for the heads up.
Why don't you just clean the shaft up good, then paint the axle where it's exposed to moisture? Yes I know it will get scratched and scraped off with removing and reinstalling the wheel, but how often are you removing the wheel ?
Just use a good spray paint (rustoleum?), let it cure completely and it shouldn't scratch off easily. As far as clearance, I'm assuming there is at least several mils of clearance between the shaft and the wheel, either way, use a little common sense and don't pile the paint on the shaft/axle to the point that you haven't enough clearance to facilitate installation of the grinding wheel. If you want some extra insurance, apply a heavy, water resistant grease over the paint, then install the wheel.
Put a wing nut on!
If you’re referring to the wen wheel nut,
I use it turning a direction that wants to loosed the nut not tighten like tormeks.
If you run the wheel on the left it will tighten the nut. I need the lock nut.
Just get a lazy susan from Walmart or the hardware store, 15 bucks.
Try to find a cheap plastic one or it will rust
iamchillydogg Buy a Lazy Susan bearing for $4-5 at Lee Valley or anywhere and make the wood platter. Inexpensive and non rusting.
for us guys who like making our own parts this is a good solution, but any design needs a 180 degree stop in its design. Not a hard detail but one that makes the build a little more interesting.
take off the stone
thanks you capitalism for competition!! :P