1000% great information here. I followed these instructions. I am automobile wiring challenged person. This video made it easy, and it is the only way to fix this problem. Thank you sir for posting this video.
I just want to say with complete sincerity, thank you for posting this video. You truly got me out a bind and for less than $30 dollars. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. This comment will be followed by a subscription to your channel.
Another one saved here. 2003 Excursion v10. Just wish I saw this before replacing every damn sensor under the hood, FP & filter, etc. Frucking silly $20 relay!!! Now is running like a champ. Thank you Big Bill.
thankyou Bill, im an old disabled logger mechanic welder and my 2005 6.0 died 2ish months ago, no fuel. i was taking a neighbour to hospital 10.30 at night 20ish below had get towed home. i had a relay clicking under my dash when driving and when I pulled over it would quit clicking so i ran around with my lower dash covers off and tried to feel which relay was clicking but never knew there was one built in[ basturds lol]. i checked fuel filter both empty, so pulled whole fuel pump/ filter assembly cleaned[ was clean] but did it anyway replaced fuel pump only because i have 145,000 km and it was on kitchen table. installed pump not getting power so started to remove astroflex remote start because i thought it was stopping fuel and it's always been trouble. was just checking removing and wiring because the ford dealership did a gross hack job. i told my friend today if i had to i would bypass power to pump so glad i found this.
@@jeffbromley73 Yeah. Although this truck is in Oregon now it spent most of its life in Denver CO. They use Magnesium Chloride on the highways there. I don't know what it is about a Ford but they stand up far better to that kind of abuse than any other truck. There is literally no rot anywhere on this truck except for the basic surface rust where the paint was scratched etc.
So glad I found your video. my mechanic was convinced the fuel pump was going bad. I made a jumper, as soon as it does I ran power to the fuel pump wire and it started right up, removed wire and it died and wouldn't restart until I put the jumper wire back on. I purchased and installed the relay and fuses same as you did. Took it on a 30 min test drive and it never died once. prior to the by pass I couldn't go more than 5 or 10 minutes of drive before it died. Thank you very much!!
@@bigbill2376 I’ve got the light blue and orange for the pcm ground, the green and yellow for the inertia switch and the constant power, what is the 4th wire you didn’t show that wire
Thanks for making this step by step video to make a simple fix to what should have been a plug and play from the factory. Just completed the remote relay and the old 5.4 is purring again for a fraction of the cost to replace the entire unit.
@@texas_reaper197 Sorry Texas, I don't have any pics. I watched Big Bill and another video. ua-cam.com/video/YQFCIIX0VBA/v-deo.html. Between the 2 videos I was able to diagnose and confirm the issue. They are both great, but I felt better seeing the project from another perspective before I started cutting into the wires. No issues for about 4 months now.
Since everyone keeps asking about the blue wire, lets clear it up. This is an answer posted within the thread that should help. "It's been a while but I think it's the power supply for the relay itself. It goes to positive. The green wire connects to the PCM. The PCM makes a ground through the green wire to enable the relay. In other words, the Blue wire is connected to a positive power source, when the PCM commands fuel, it will CHANGE the green wires polarity from + to - thereby completing and energizing the relay. If the engine does not start or stops running, the ground from the PCM switches back to positive disabling the relay and stopping the pump. (it's easier for the PCM to change the polarity than it is to sever it). Why does it do it this way? the answer is simple. If you break or make a connection, it creates damaging heat but if you just change the polarity, this doesn't occur. It protects the PCM from being damaged over time. Remember to fuse this line. I wouldn't use anything above a 5 amp but you could probably get away with a slightly smaller one. It doesn't take much power to energize a relay. PS, I am talking about the colors of the wires on MY relay setup, NOT the wire colors from the truck. Your relay may have different colors. On mine, the green/blue energize the relay, the red/yellow energize the fuel pump."
Bill, the PCM is an open collector type. That means that when the relay is off, the green wire is left floating by the PCM so it has 12v since the other side of the relay is linked direct to 12v source. But great video !
Hi Bill. I just got through doing your mod, & it works! Truck runs! One thing I did notice, it takes about 15-20 seconds for my pump to shut off with the key on. I thought I had a problem until I just waited a little longer & it did shut off. I did use a different relay, the one the parts house said should fit my truck. Looks different, but it works...Thanks!
Great job. I have a 350 6.0 that only starts with the obd plugged in. I noticed the inertia switch sometimes trips No clatter at the start. I don't have this geniuses expertise I wish I did. 😃
Well, my 2004 expedition showed early signs of no power or thrust got the p0231 code I think I’ll preempt this issue. Thanks. My expedition has 275k I and the AC clutch just froze but I just can’t bring myself to chuck it!😂😂.
Great and helpful video. I just did this to a 2003 f250 today. Truck runs. Only question I have, do you have to do anything with the 4 wire plug or the wires in the 4 wire plug that plug into the back of the factory fuel pump relay? Thank you
Bill, Absolutely the Best way yet I found after a Great deal of research !!!! I ran the switching feed wire to the original fuse location of the pump, please advise if you feel this was improper or dangerous !!!! Very Well thought out and thought though !!!! The Bitch Slap comment makes me laugh ever time I think of it !!!! Excellent advice and Great Thanks , Carl
@@bigbill2376 I am using 5 amp fuses and twice they have burned out and were quite hot along with the relay, what could I have done wrong ???? Thanks ahead for you suggestion !!!!
I love when someone comes up with a factory style solution where you don't lose any features! My hat is off to you. I am assuming this would work with a 5.4L F250 as well?
What about the fourth prung on the new relay where does it wire to? The three I understand are: Wire from rematch to power supply on panel, wire from relay to fuel pump grn/ylw, and third one from relay to pcm ground/positive wire for safety future, but the fourth prung on the relay (the light blue wire you have coming out of relay at end of video) I don’t understand, please help
Big Bill I left a message on a different web site that I would like you to let me know how to do this repair then I found your site and this video and It’s just what I needed my son has a 2003 ford Escalade with this problem so tomorrow I will start on it tomorrow. Thanks and I will keep track of you I have a 1998 2001 truck also 1958 f100 I’m hands on also again Thanks
Do you know if the 2003 e450 v10 van cutway had same problem ?? I replaced pump, but now its not getting power via new fuel pump relay. Thanks for the GREAT vid!
Did this exact procedure on my early 2003 and did not work. I hear relay clicking, I get 12V but the pump still will not run. The connector at the HCFM power shows 12 volts even after the 20 second timeout period and the brand new pump still will not run. I can jump 12v from battery to pump and it primes just fine. Any advice?
I have 99 ford f450 6.8 v10, I figured out it’s the fuel pump relay in distribution box problem. If you could do a video call , I would gladly pay if it fits to the budget to show how to wire a bypass fuel relay. Let me know thank you
It's been a long time since I made this video. If I remember correctly, the wire on the 5 Amp comes from the PCM. It charges the relay. The 30 Amp is the actual power supply for the fuel pump and is directly connected. Please review the video to confirm. BTW, this truck just passed the 670,000 mile mark with this repair and is still going strong!
At 4min and 13secs there a shot of wires spliced onto the ignition switch harness. With 2 red wires coming off of it. What do they go to?? Any info about them would be helpful, thank you!!!
I no longr own this truck and to be fair, I can't remember what they were for. I had a lot of extra things on this truck, camera systems, electric brake systems, extra power outlets, extra lights, radios etc. If I didn't specifically speak about them in the video then they most likely had nothing to do with the pump system. It looks like they were going into the ikgn switch module and were probably for something else that needed switched power.
Hey man! Great video. Can you please tell us which PIN number each of your colored wires corresponds to? My relay has different colors and but the PIN numbers are the same. That would solve my puzzle. Thanks much for the video.
The pin numbers are displayed in the diagrams at the end of the video. Please don't take offense but this is not something you should try if you don't have the necessary skills to fully understand how the system operates. It's like my dad used to tell me. You can't fix something if you don't know how it works. Good luck.
@@bigbill2376 Hi Bill. Thanks for the feedback. You’re absolutely correct except for one thing. We all learn from asking questions. I have been keeping “Big Lou” on the road for the last ten years by learning my truck; by asking guys like you questions, like I did of my teachers in school. So please don’t be annoyed that I asked that question. I am learning and totally value trailblazers like you. I now know about voltage switching, about relay power vs appliance power, etc. Thank you for that. I just want to be certain before I do unnecessary damage.
I have a 03 f250 v10 with the same issue, can't hear the fuel pump come on even after installing a new fuel pump. Shouldn't the wires be the same in mine? What color wire did you tap into again? I apologize cant see the diagram real well
The video has everything you need. This repair does require a certain level of knowledge. I didn't really talk too much about wire color opting instead for the pin/wire locations in the connector. If you are uncomfortable with attempting this you can buy a replacement junction box online and just replace it. Good luck.
@@willp1941 different years have different color wires. The important part is to find the one that comes on for two seconds then shuts off. My 2002 was different , but I was able to do this while on a fishing trip in MN.
Hello Sr. first and foremost I like to thank you for sharing your video and knowledge just one question I did followed your recommendation and it does work but by. relay don’t stop the pump after seconds and still shows the P0231 code, did I did something wrong?
That leads me to think you've attached the relay feed wire to the wrong output wire from the computer. It is also possible you have a short within the fuel pump itself. Check the wiring to the fuel pump and make sure its not chafed anywhere.
@@bigbill2376 All cables and fuel pump are correct and truck runs great but the delay is not working at any rate by any chance do you have the relay brand and model? Thank you.
Just because the pump works does not mean its ok. There's a feedback wire that reports to the ecm that 12 volts is present. If that wire or circuit is corrupted the ecm does not know its on. If the ecm doesn't think its on it won't shut it off. I really cannot help you more than that. Good luck.
Yes...great solution... I too would like brand an p/n for the relay yu installed Also the illustration chart for pcm plug is very blurry for me...mebbe yu can email to me?
@@azsiskroger3830 The brand is not specific. It just needs to be able to handle the amp load of the fuel pump itself. It would not do any good to email the image to you as it's one I found on the web and it's as clear as it can be in the video, so sorry. A quick google search and you can find it just like I did. Heck, you might even find a better one. All the second mage is showing you is the location of pin #22.
What color is that switch wire on the main wiring harness? Can you please tell me what each relay # wire goes to? 30 to where, 85 to where, 86 to where, and 87 to where? And which wire did you put the 5amp fuse? Thank you so much, and thank you so much for this video. God bless
It's been a while but I think it's the power supply for the relay itself. It goes to positive. The green wire connects to the PCM. The PCM makes a ground through the green wire to enable the relay. In other words, the Blue wire is connected to a positive power source, when the PCM commands fuel, it will CHANGE the green wires polarity from + to - thereby completing and energizing the relay. If the engine does not start or stops running, the ground from the PCM switches back to positive disabling the relay and stopping the pump. (it's easier for the PCM to change the polarity than it is to sever it). Why does it do it this way? the answer is simple. If you break or make a connection, it creates damaging heat but if you just change the polarity, this doesn't occur. It protects the PCM from being damaged over time. Remember to fuse this line. I wouldn't use anything above a 5 amp but you could probably get away with a slightly smaller one. It doesn't take much power to energize a relay. PS, I am talking about the colors of the wires on MY relay setup, NOT the wire colors from the truck. Your relay may have different colors. On mine, the green/blue energize the relay, the red/yellow energize the fuel pump.
@@bigbill2376 thank you Sir for a very insightful answer, I appreciate your time. I’ve learned ALOT from your video and now even more. The polarity aspect you talk about is pretty slick, burying a non-replaceable relay in the junction box not so slick. I’ve severed the proper wires and currently waiting for relay to arrive.
While I appreciate the effort, there's a few details missing in your instructions. You never go back to confirm if its the "tan with white stripe" that goes to the green wire in the new relay. Also you never specify where the blue wire that gets a 2am fuse goes to. Assuming it gets power as well.
I appreciate the comment but I was very clear in the beginning. Don't attempt this if you can't figure out the wires with the info provided. I did give you a schematic and I also said don't try this if you don't have the necessary skills to complete it. It is not a step by step repair. It's an outline to a solution that does not require changing the entire fuse box.
Not exactly sure. Pretty substantial however. At least as large as the wire that came with the relay connector. It does carry a pretty good load so don't under size it. That's why the relay on the board failed, from heat damage.
Brother if you ever find the guy send me his address...I got a bitch slap waiting for him or her also. Dealing with similar problem with my Ford, whoever designed must have been a bunch of tight shoes wearing suits with engineering degrees that never had to physical work on their own cars except replace the occasional air freshener hanging from the rear view mirror. What a dumbass design...
Ok so i tested all pins on the pcm harness and none of them give me 12v with ignition to on position. If I turn the key to start one wire gives me 12v. Bad pcm?? Your thoughts. Thanks
1000% great information here. I followed these instructions. I am automobile wiring challenged person. This video made it easy, and it is the only way to fix this problem. Thank you sir for posting this video.
I just want to say with complete sincerity, thank you for posting this video. You truly got me out a bind and for less than $30 dollars. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. This comment will be followed by a subscription to your channel.
Another one saved here. 2003 Excursion v10. Just wish I saw this before replacing every damn sensor under the hood, FP & filter, etc. Frucking silly $20 relay!!! Now is running like a champ. Thank you Big Bill.
thankyou Bill, im an old disabled logger mechanic welder and my 2005 6.0 died 2ish months ago, no fuel. i was taking a neighbour to hospital 10.30 at night 20ish below had get towed home. i had a relay clicking under my dash when driving and when I pulled over it would quit clicking so i ran around with my lower dash covers off and tried to feel which relay was clicking but never knew there was one built in[ basturds lol]. i checked fuel filter both empty, so pulled whole fuel pump/ filter assembly cleaned[ was clean] but did it anyway replaced fuel pump only because i have 145,000 km and it was on kitchen table. installed pump not getting power so started to remove astroflex remote start because i thought it was stopping fuel and it's always been trouble. was just checking removing and wiring because the ford dealership did a gross hack job. i told my friend today if i had to i would bypass power to pump so glad i found this.
Just so everyone knows, this truck has now cleared 700,000 miles and still runs great!
That’s unbelievable, 700k
They use salt on your roads during the winter?
@@jeffbromley73 Yeah. Although this truck is in Oregon now it spent most of its life in Denver CO. They use Magnesium Chloride on the highways there. I don't know what it is about a Ford but they stand up far better to that kind of abuse than any other truck. There is literally no rot anywhere on this truck except for the basic surface rust where the paint was scratched etc.
@@jeffbromley73 magnesium chloride.
So glad I found your video. my mechanic was convinced the fuel pump was going bad. I made a jumper, as soon as it does I ran power to the fuel pump wire and it started right up, removed wire and it died and wouldn't restart until I put the jumper wire back on. I purchased and installed the relay and fuses same as you did. Took it on a 30 min test drive and it never died once. prior to the by pass I couldn't go more than 5 or 10 minutes of drive before it died. Thank you very much!!
Glad I could help.
Which wires did you jump to test?
@@bigbill2376 I’ve got the light blue and orange for the pcm ground, the green and yellow for the inertia switch and the constant power, what is the 4th wire you didn’t show that wire
Man, you dont know how awesome it is that you posted this video! You just saved my stranded ass and got me home brother! Thank you
i guess I am kind of randomly asking but does anyone know a good site to stream new movies online ?
@Sebastian Ryder Lately I have been using Flixzone. You can find it on google =)
@Yousef Antonio yup, I have been watching on FlixZone for since april myself :D
@Yousef Antonio thanks, I went there and it seems to work :) I appreciate it!
@Sebastian Ryder happy to help :D
Another one saved with Bill's great instructions! 2002 Excursion V10 4x4
I thought it was hilarious hearing an older gentleman say bitch slap 😂
This worked great on my 2004 ford excursion 4x4 with v10, awesome $20 fix
Thanks for making this step by step video to make a simple fix to what should have been a plug and play from the factory. Just completed the remote relay and the old 5.4 is purring again for a fraction of the cost to replace the entire unit.
Hey, do you have picture of your wiring job? I have 5.4 and need to do the same thing
@@texas_reaper197 Sorry Texas, I don't have any pics. I watched Big Bill and another video. ua-cam.com/video/YQFCIIX0VBA/v-deo.html. Between the 2 videos I was able to diagnose and confirm the issue. They are both great, but I felt better seeing the project from another perspective before I started cutting into the wires.
No issues for about 4 months now.
Guess I know what I'm going to be doing today. Great video!
Since everyone keeps asking about the blue wire, lets clear it up. This is an answer posted within the thread that should help. "It's been a while but I think it's the power supply for the relay itself. It goes to positive. The green wire connects to the PCM. The PCM makes a ground through the green wire to enable the relay. In other words, the Blue wire is connected to a positive power source, when the PCM commands fuel, it will CHANGE the green wires polarity from + to - thereby completing and energizing the relay. If the engine does not start or stops running, the ground from the PCM switches back to positive disabling the relay and stopping the pump. (it's easier for the PCM to change the polarity than it is to sever it). Why does it do it this way? the answer is simple. If you break or make a connection, it creates damaging heat but if you just change the polarity, this doesn't occur. It protects the PCM from being damaged over time. Remember to fuse this line. I wouldn't use anything above a 5 amp but you could probably get away with a slightly smaller one. It doesn't take much power to energize a relay. PS, I am talking about the colors of the wires on MY relay setup, NOT the wire colors from the truck. Your relay may have different colors. On mine, the green/blue energize the relay, the red/yellow energize the fuel pump."
Bill, the PCM is an open collector type. That means that when the relay is off,
the green wire is left floating by the PCM so it has 12v since the other side of the relay is linked direct to 12v source.
But great video !
I don't know you but I love you thanks man your a life saver my hero.
@ 5:53 i just noticed the crab claw
very informative thanks bill
You helped save my truck. Thank you very much
Thank you Bob!!! This method worked on my 2004 F-250 5.4l.
It's Bill but you are welcome. Glad you got it working.
Hi Bill. I just got through doing your mod, & it works! Truck runs! One thing I did notice, it takes about 15-20 seconds for my pump to shut off with the key on. I thought I had a problem until I just waited a little longer & it did shut off. I did use a different relay, the one the parts house said should fit my truck. Looks different, but it works...Thanks!
As long as it shuts off, that's all that's important. You don't want the fuel pump running on if the engine isn't running. Glad you got it to work.
Great job Bill
Great job. I have a 350 6.0 that only starts with the obd plugged in. I noticed the inertia switch sometimes trips
No clatter at the start.
I don't have this geniuses expertise
I wish I did. 😃
Well, my 2004 expedition showed early signs of no power or thrust got the p0231 code I think I’ll preempt this issue. Thanks. My expedition has 275k I and the AC clutch just froze but I just can’t bring myself to chuck it!😂😂.
Thanks. You absolutely rock!
Great and helpful video. I just did this to a 2003 f250 today. Truck runs. Only question I have, do you have to do anything with the 4 wire plug or the wires in the 4 wire plug that plug into the back of the factory fuel pump relay? Thank you
What was your initial symptoms.
Im having intermittent fuel cut off
Bill, Absolutely the Best way yet I found after a Great deal of research !!!! I ran the switching feed wire to the original fuse location of the pump, please advise if you feel this was improper or dangerous !!!! Very Well thought out and thought though !!!! The Bitch Slap comment makes me laugh ever time I think of it !!!! Excellent advice and Great Thanks , Carl
As long as the pump shuts off after a few seconds after you turn the key on.
@@bigbill2376 I am using 5 amp fuses and twice they have burned out and were quite hot along with the relay, what could I have done wrong ???? Thanks ahead for you suggestion !!!!
@@carhund2137 Sounds like you have the 5 amp on the pump side of the relay.
I love when someone comes up with a factory style solution where you don't lose any features! My hat is off to you. I am assuming this would work with a 5.4L F250 as well?
I don't see why not.
It does I just did it and this guy is my savior.
What about the fourth prung on the new relay where does it wire to? The three I understand are: Wire from rematch to power supply on panel, wire from relay to fuel pump grn/ylw, and third one from relay to pcm ground/positive wire for safety future, but the fourth prung on the relay (the light blue wire you have coming out of relay at end of video) I don’t understand, please help
Big Bill I left a message on a different web site that I would like you to let me know how to do this repair then I found your site and this video and It’s just what I needed my son has a 2003 ford Escalade with this problem so tomorrow I will start on it tomorrow. Thanks and I will keep track of you I have a 1998 2001 truck also 1958 f100 I’m hands on also again Thanks
You are very welcome.
Do you know if the 2003 e450 v10 van cutway had same problem ?? I replaced pump, but now its not getting power via new fuel pump relay. Thanks for the GREAT vid!
Thanks so much 🙏
Did this exact procedure on my early 2003 and did not work. I hear relay clicking, I get 12V but the pump still will not run. The connector at the HCFM power shows 12 volts even after the 20 second timeout period and the brand new pump still will not run. I can jump 12v from battery to pump and it primes just fine. Any advice?
Thanks, I believe I have the some;thing like this, Not sure yet!
Do you think they will be the same wires on 2004 F-250 6.0 , believe I will be doing this
keith weber good job.👌👌
I have 99 ford f450 6.8 v10, I figured out it’s the fuel pump relay in distribution box problem. If you could do a video call , I would gladly pay if it fits to the budget to show how to wire a bypass fuel relay. Let me know thank you
Where did you purchase the relay from?
Lol! I love the bitch slap comment. I'm a acft mechanic in the Air Force. I hate that engineers don't have to work on the crap they design.
Sorry to bother you, but do both the 30amp and 5amp positive wires attach the the main power supply?
It's been a long time since I made this video. If I remember correctly, the wire on the 5 Amp comes from the PCM. It charges the relay. The 30 Amp is the actual power supply for the fuel pump and is directly connected. Please review the video to confirm. BTW, this truck just passed the 670,000 mile mark with this repair and is still going strong!
@@bigbill2376 I reviewed the video, and did just as you did and my truck runs again! Bless you for the information, take care out there
Good Job
Hi Bill, i’m having the same problem could you tell me the part number for the relay switch and where I can get it?
Thanks Patrick
I used a basic relay (probably 20 amp) that I picked up at the local parts house. There's nothing special about it.
I wanted to like this video as soon as i heard bitch slap!! thank for the video.!
How do I reach out to Big Bill? I'm having the same issue and would like to find out what parts to buy. I have a 2005 f250 V10 with 300,000 miles.
Bill, what is the part number for this relay please and where did you get it?
Thank you
There is no part number. Any 4 wire 20 Amp relay will work.
I just asked this too…please ignore my question 🤣😂
At 4min and 13secs there a shot of wires spliced onto the ignition switch harness. With 2 red wires coming off of it. What do they go to?? Any info about them would be helpful, thank you!!!
I no longr own this truck and to be fair, I can't remember what they were for. I had a lot of extra things on this truck, camera systems, electric brake systems, extra power outlets, extra lights, radios etc. If I didn't specifically speak about them in the video then they most likely had nothing to do with the pump system. It looks like they were going into the ikgn switch module and were probably for something else that needed switched power.
On a 2003 expedition, the control wire from the pcm to the fuel pump relay is light blue w/orange stripe
Hey man! Great video. Can you please tell us which PIN number each of your colored wires corresponds to? My relay has different colors and but the PIN numbers are the same. That would solve my puzzle. Thanks much for the video.
The pin numbers are displayed in the diagrams at the end of the video. Please don't take offense but this is not something you should try if you don't have the necessary skills to fully understand how the system operates. It's like my dad used to tell me. You can't fix something if you don't know how it works. Good luck.
@@bigbill2376 Hi Bill. Thanks for the feedback. You’re absolutely correct except for one thing. We all learn from asking questions. I have been keeping “Big Lou” on the road for the last ten years by learning my truck; by asking guys like you questions, like I did of my teachers in school. So please don’t be annoyed that I asked that question. I am learning and totally value trailblazers like you. I now know about voltage switching, about relay power vs appliance power, etc. Thank you for that. I just want to be certain before I do unnecessary damage.
Will this work on a 2005 f550 v10..my ground wire to computer 2nd one down is more of a blackish color
I have a 03 f250 v10 with the same issue, can't hear the fuel pump come on even after installing a new fuel pump. Shouldn't the wires be the same in mine? What color wire did you tap into again? I apologize cant see the diagram real well
The video has everything you need. This repair does require a certain level of knowledge. I didn't really talk too much about wire color opting instead for the pin/wire locations in the connector. If you are uncomfortable with attempting this you can buy a replacement junction box online and just replace it. Good luck.
Checked the video with the last few moments displaying the connector with the fuel pump wire--looks like it is a Lt?brown /orange wire?
@@willp1941 different years have different color wires. The important part is to find the one that comes on for two seconds then shuts off. My 2002 was different , but I was able to do this while on a fishing trip in MN.
Hello Sr. first and foremost I like to thank you for sharing your video and knowledge just one question I did followed your recommendation and it does work but by. relay don’t stop the pump after seconds and still shows the P0231 code, did I did something wrong?
That leads me to think you've attached the relay feed wire to the wrong output wire from the computer. It is also possible you have a short within the fuel pump itself. Check the wiring to the fuel pump and make sure its not chafed anywhere.
@@bigbill2376 All cables and fuel pump are correct and truck runs great but the delay is not working at any rate by any chance do you have the relay brand and model? Thank you.
Just because the pump works does not mean its ok. There's a feedback wire that reports to the ecm that 12 volts is present. If that wire or circuit is corrupted the ecm does not know its on. If the ecm doesn't think its on it won't shut it off. I really cannot help you more than that. Good luck.
Yes...great solution...
I too would like brand an p/n for the relay yu installed
Also the illustration chart for pcm plug is very blurry for me...mebbe yu can email to me?
@@azsiskroger3830 The brand is not specific. It just needs to be able to handle the amp load of the fuel pump itself. It would not do any good to email the image to you as it's one I found on the web and it's as clear as it can be in the video, so sorry. A quick google search and you can find it just like I did. Heck, you might even find a better one. All the second mage is showing you is the location of pin #22.
I am currently doing this to my truck and I have some questions
What color is that switch wire on the main wiring harness? Can you please tell me what each relay # wire goes to? 30 to where, 85 to where, 86 to where, and 87 to where? And which wire did you put the 5amp fuse? Thank you so much, and thank you so much for this video. God bless
There should be a diagram on the relay
Big Bill, where does the blue lead from the relay you bought tie in?
It's been a while but I think it's the power supply for the relay itself. It goes to positive. The green wire connects to the PCM. The PCM makes a ground through the green wire to enable the relay. In other words, the Blue wire is connected to a positive power source, when the PCM commands fuel, it will CHANGE the green wires polarity from + to - thereby completing and energizing the relay. If the engine does not start or stops running, the ground from the PCM switches back to positive disabling the relay and stopping the pump. (it's easier for the PCM to change the polarity than it is to sever it). Why does it do it this way? the answer is simple. If you break or make a connection, it creates damaging heat but if you just change the polarity, this doesn't occur. It protects the PCM from being damaged over time. Remember to fuse this line. I wouldn't use anything above a 5 amp but you could probably get away with a slightly smaller one. It doesn't take much power to energize a relay. PS, I am talking about the colors of the wires on MY relay setup, NOT the wire colors from the truck. Your relay may have different colors. On mine, the green/blue energize the relay, the red/yellow energize the fuel pump.
@@bigbill2376 thank you Sir for a very insightful answer, I appreciate your time. I’ve learned ALOT from your video and now even more. The polarity aspect you talk about is pretty slick, burying a non-replaceable relay in the junction box not so slick. I’ve severed the proper wires and currently waiting for relay to arrive.
Which is the wire you cut from the junky box
What wire does the 5amp fuse go too?
While I appreciate the effort, there's a few details missing in your instructions. You never go back to confirm if its the "tan with white stripe" that goes to the green wire in the new relay. Also you never specify where the blue wire that gets a 2am fuse goes to. Assuming it gets power as well.
I appreciate the comment but I was very clear in the beginning. Don't attempt this if you can't figure out the wires with the info provided. I did give you a schematic and I also said don't try this if you don't have the necessary skills to complete it. It is not a step by step repair. It's an outline to a solution that does not require changing the entire fuse box.
@@bigbill2376 It did get me close enough and just made a successful test drive with no stalls and no codes! Thanks.
where does the blue wire on the relay connector wire into?
What guage wire are you using here?
Not exactly sure. Pretty substantial however. At least as large as the wire that came with the relay connector. It does carry a pretty good load so don't under size it. That's why the relay on the board failed, from heat damage.
Brother if you ever find the guy send me his address...I got a bitch slap waiting for him or her also. Dealing with similar problem with my Ford, whoever designed must have been a bunch of tight shoes wearing suits with engineering degrees that never had to physical work on their own cars except replace the occasional air freshener hanging from the rear view mirror. What a dumbass design...
Where are u located can I pay u to do mines
I am not a repair shop. Sorry.
Can you tell us the part number that fuse is
I wonder if I can do this to my 2000 ford excursion v10 I got a P0232 code on n this seem the easy way.
Should be able too.
Will this work with a 2002 7.3 diesel?
Have no idea. Probably not
Could you tell me which wires go which poles please. Trying to fix my truck rn and don’t want to blow the pcm
Ok so i tested all pins on the pcm harness and none of them give me 12v with ignition to on position. If I turn the key to start one wire gives me 12v. Bad pcm?? Your thoughts. Thanks
lolololololol yo pops said bitch slap!!!!!! get em pops!!!
A rubber is missing from the break pedal. Might be the reason, in part, why they had to burn the unused rubber trees
Please tell me where I can get the relay
@big bill
NONE of the relays should be hidden in that box. wtf would you do that
😅
B