my thirteen year-old daughter loves to work with me also. today we are doing solar panels on our 6x12 trailer. the trailer I bought came with those same stabilizers. So far they work nicely.
Stainless bolts into aluminum are a must, plain steel bolts will start to corrode aluminum in a very short time. Even stainless will corrode over time, but are good much longer. I have a 15 year old Reitnouer flatbed semi trailer that needed a couple cross member supports replaced last summer and there was enough oxidation on the aluminum that I drilled the holes and installed the next size larger bolt. Reitnouer's are pretty much bolted together.Very little is welded. Silicone sealer also works well to separate steel from aluminum when you bolt them together. A nice even coat, a bit thicker than for a gasket and let it tack up pretty well before you tighten it down. I like the pics you've been using in the intro's lately and hope Linda is recovering well. My thoughts are with you all
Thank you so much! I have literally looked everywhere for a tutorial on these. I was about to lose my mind. I bought a pop-up and couldn't figure out for the life of me how to use these. You saved my husband from hearing his wife scream and throw things bc I couldn't work these lol! Blessing to the family!
I backed into a Stump and bents one of mine. Later on It fell out and I lost the drop down leg. I guess it WAS sacrificial... I have new Heavy one to put on as a replacement. and yes, I too have that plate to bolt onto.
The struts on my trailer come out the back not to the side...I wonder if they are bolted or welded,,,I'll have to check. I love that you showed the rod to jack them up as there was a small rod in the trailer and I thought is was something they left in here by mistake....Now I know what it is for...Great video as always !!
“Sacrificial struts” nice! I always wondered how you kept those little trailers from shaking. You could maybe chuck that tap to your impact driver next time at its lowest speed setting? Thanks for another cool video!
I need to find that tap handle and put it back with the taps where it belongs! The thing about using a tap is that you have to work it in and out as you go.
Great job on the install. There one thing that you might want to do is undo them and put some silicone in between them so you don't get electrolysis between the two different metals.or put a rubber gasket. The electrolysis will eat up the aluminum and corrode. Hope that help. Love watching your videos.
The electrolysis between aluminum and steel isn't much of a problem out here where they don't salt the roads. Aluminum and brass, bronze or copper is an absolute no-no though.
@@gonagain you are beyond welcome, your tenacity to enjoy what God blessed us with, encourages me to proceed on,and enjoy our God given environment, full time, as I have already begun to do
Another informative video Rick and you did a great public service by wearing safety glasses; it's not a great hardship and could ultimately prevent a life changing injury. Much appreciated!
It seems you have a video for everything regarding these conversions, all very thorough and helpful. I picked up a 7x12 yesterday to convert into a toy hauler camper for a motorcycle. Your videos will be a very helpful tool during the building process so thank you
I had thought about installing those jacks, but was afraid of accidental damage. Bought 4 aluminum jack stands instead they work fine for my applications. Thanks for sharing I know they will work well for your Daughter ! Take Care You out jogging yet Linda ? Hope your mending well. Spring is almost here. ENJOY ALL !
I had struts on my cargo trailer, but I had to get all the way on the ground and fight getting them lowered being old and weak. But my Son-in-law bolted 4 scissor jack’s that I open and close with my drill, and it saves me so much time and pain.
I have the same jacks…..work perfectly on my 6x12 metal frame. In addition to the bolts, i put a small tack weld on each side of the jack plates for more safety.
@Gonagain That's great news! If you recall, my wife fell from a Zip line 13' and suffered pilon fractures in Both legs. Here Dr. Is very pleased with here progress. We're sure Linda will be in great shape soon!!
My trailer has two rear pedestals to keep the tongue from rising when you lower the ramp. They don't stabilize rocking and the adjustment holes are about 2" apart, so I usually need to shim one; often both. Definitely not seismic Class I. I think you just showed me what I should do. To use the ramp as a patio, I need a pair at the end of the ramp, too. Thanks. Blessings to you, Linda, and the kids. I store my tap-and-die handle with my taps and dies, somewhere.
I think I remember my old pop up camper back in the 80’s had those struts with the rods.great video. I’ve been planning another long road trip to Utah later this year, but the price of gas may change my plans. Our last trip out there cost $2,000 in gas when it was $2.50 - $3.00 per gallon. Now I’m thinking twice about going that far. Hope Linda if doing well.
Hello George, we're in the same predicament as you (and most other folks these days) trying to get by with the price of gas being so high. Not sure where our channel is heading if we can't afford to travel! For the time being we'll be doing local trips.
@@gonagain You do show places and knowledge in your travels but you do have knowledge, like the videos you did while riding the bikes. It has been as much your mind as it has been where you were. A will will find the way.
I have Save-A-Jack removable scissor jack mounting points for mine. You do have to place the jacks on the mounting points once at your location, but since they aren't under the trailer while it is moving, there is zero chance of them being damaged or damaging the trailer frame or cross tubes/bars if contact is made with a rock or other obstacle. The Save-A-Jack mounts can be hard to find sometimes to purchase though.
Next time you tap aluminum, try dipping the tap in diesel or kerosene; far better than any tap fluid on the market. Also works good with cast iron and stainless.
Nice I was contemplating doing those on my trailer and with this video I think I can do it😊 thank you.. you're always so informative on do it yourself projects👍👍 keep the great videos coming!!!!!
Ah Yes, just what is needed for stability. Rick, ya did it Again, with more important equipment. My rig is Way Tall off the ground bc I had the Axel flipped when it was built. Tons of clearance, but Loads of wind resistance. Yikes. It has vertical 'stabilizers' built-in that drop down, but are Too short. That's cause the rig is Too Tall. l should get these to add for even More rock solid 'Equality'. (have several wooden blocks to make up the Difference) is there a brand name for these angled goodies??? As Always, Thanks for your expertise. 👊 God Bless. Oh, I just found the link 🤗
I'm impressed was that a "Turbo-Prop" .... I considered those same stabilizers and was also concerned about Clearance .... for me I opted out ... I figured the automotive Jack Stands I was using did a good job plus I always travel with at least one Jack Stand for vehicle repair so I consider them dual purpose ... I once changed both rear differential axle bearings on my SUV in a parking lot while on trip and Jack Stands were an absolute .... something to think about if you're a car guy ...
If jacks are painted steel and not aluminum, watch out for dissimilar metals corroding. Hardware must be stainless. I was wondering if the frame you attached to was a "L" channel or "C" channel where you could have used washers and nuts/bolts to afix the jacks to aluminum frame member. Could not tell from video concerning openness for mounting. Thanks for sharing.
i gave you a thumbs up , but i see a problem with that stabilizer posts, if your on the trail and you bottom out on a dip in the road, . solution, install 2 large roller wheels in the rear under the doors , so if you bottom out, it will hit the roller wheels instead of the support braces? harbor freight i ould say 6" min. wheels in cover the support braces drop.
@@gonagainjust normal driving in/out of a driveway it can happen? i tell this to people all the time with travel /towhaulers , trailers that have a long over hang of the rear axle, , it cheap insurance , the roller wheels i like are 6" or * " wheels , red neophene . peole say all the time that looks stupid , well it saves the trailer from damage that w/o WILL COST YOU MONEY EACH TIME???
I think I would do the mount different I would of mounted a piece of angle Iron caty corner across the corned or a piece of flat steel caty corner then I would drill and tap the steel piece and the end of the steel would have two bolts in each end to make more secure
Thanks for showing the install. Is it possible to install them along the walls instead of by the doors. Just didn’t know if they would be more out of the way. They would still fold down to the same corner
You could consider getting two 6"X6"X1/4" steel plates and put one in each corner up inside the aluminum framing. Then mark your stabilizer mount and drill your plate. Then mark the plate on the floor bottom and drill through the floor and put carriage bolts down through the floor, plate and stabilizer. Or get two strips of steel like the aluminum ones on your trailer. Get them approximately 6 inches longer than the distance from the rear frame to the first cross bar and bend 3 inches on each end down and bolt them into the frame and cross bar. Mount the stabilizer into the steel strip. Either way the stabilizer will be able to fold up inside the frame like yours do on your trailer.
I have been trying to figure out which stands to go with. Building an outdoor adventure trailer from a stand utility trailer. I noticed in the description you listed two sizes of these jacks, which did you install (length). I don't need additional height to the trailer but was thinking oof installing one on each corner. Is there a need for a jack on each corner of the trailer as you say, put the back ones down and adjust tongue jack, we will not be sleeping on the trailer AR Awning and deluxe room will hang off the side of the trailer. Thanks for a very informative and instructional video. Daughter is too cool to get an umbrella. Thanks, and much appreciated.
I suggest measuring the height of the rear of the trailer when it's level and using that to determine the proper strut to buy. After years of use, we never did get any sort of screw jack for the front two corners.
Viewed again your SungLife cordless pressure washer 320psi review vid. Heads up: $55.91 on Amazon free shipping, just ordered it. Should do a new job I have for it now.
Mine is a little hard to get it to prime so that it draws up the water, but that was an early model. My favorite use for it now is for cleaning bikes! It's great for that.
I'm hoping to get mine installed tomorrow. But now I might wait to see if you answer this Question first... Are they still on the trailer or were they knocked off from slamming/dragging on the ground?
I installed the same stabilizers on my trailer and forgot to put them up after my first trip and bent them so badly that I had to remove them. I hope that doesn’t happen to you.
Thanks for the tip on the rod and jacking up the strut. I've been using these struts for several decades and I've never even heard of that capability. One major thing you did wrong installing your struts... steel strut + aluminum frame = disaster. Just like you can't weld steel to aluminum, it's extremely bad to attach or fasten steel and aluminum directly together. It's like, on a more molecular level, they work against each other and cause expedited corrosion and breakdown of the metals where they are connected. You put steel struts on an aluminum frame and to make matters worse... you tapped the aluminum and screwed in steel bolts to hold it on. You did mention you can't tighten the bolts too tight because aluminum is a softer metal than steel and it can, and usually does, strip them out eventually. I would have made it a point to, if nothing else, cut some old inner tubes to make like a gasket or an insulation layer between to at least minimize the electrolysis that causes them to deteriorate the steel/aluminum so rapidly. If nothing else... apply a layer of silicone, (and let it START to dry good to always form a gasket of sorts) before you install the bolts. Also apply some silicone to the hole and threads both in the hole and on the bolt threads. It gives minimal protection against the electrolysis break down, and is just a little more protective... helping to prolong the life of the components installed. GREAT episode here. Keep `em coming. 👍😎
Thanks Nomad, but you're wrong about steel and aluminum. They're different, but they don't react like that. If they did you'd never be able to fasten the springs, axle and ball hitch to the trailer. Now aluminum, brass, bronze and copper are a different story and should never be in contact with each other because they will definitely destroy the aluminum.
@@gonagain NOPE!!! I'm absolutely RIGHT!!! I've worked with metals since I was a kid and I know personally I'm RIGHT!!! I know many people ignore the FACTS and put them together anyways. That's known as computerized replacement. They know they will go bad, but they figure you're going to just spend more money replacing the parts. Just like Harley and their shift shaft coming out of the transmission... they know it's going to strip out, but they won't fix or redesign it because they make so much money from people having to bring their bikes in for repairs.
hi, about 6 yes ago i moved to Michigan after i retired from Publix supermarket after 43 yrs .any way short story Lol. a went to shelter got this little ,scared shy black dog .from the moment i got to see him he attached him self to me and he was almost 1 yr when i got him, now 4 yrs later NO one can approach me. he like a body guard. i have to watch him very close .
I've thought about that, but these single axle 6x10s are already fairly high off the ground and hard to step up into. It's a future possibility though.
@@gonagain My 6x12 is the same but no room to add the stab jacks or a flip down step unless I do the spring over . so I am going to do that I guess , I do have a 4" drop axle
They work great, unless you forget to retract them before driving away. Seriously though, ours are 10 years old and are still going strong, although they could use a coat of paint.
There are some corrosion issues that can be addressed when bolting a steel jack onto an aluminum frame. Use stainless steel bolts, and lots of threadlocker (like you used). This combination will last longer. The best way to prevent the steel of the jack from corroding where it is in contact with the aluminum is thick paint, or a rubber gasket where they are in contact.
It was nice to see green grass and sun shine. Spring is on the way.
We can't wait for spring to get here!
Learned something about that self tap ,
Your daughter is so considerate. She was holding the umbrella to give you shade.
Daughters are great!
11:14 YES, I found this out just playing around with them right out of the box, before I even mounted the jacks..
Thanks Rick, GOOD TO KNOW!
ya know you are a seasoned utube creator when during a project you say "where is the camera"...... always fun and informative watching your videos.
my thirteen year-old daughter loves to work with me also. today we are doing solar panels on our 6x12 trailer.
the trailer I bought came with those same stabilizers. So far they work nicely.
That's the best help a man can get!
Good job Rick 👍🏽
And good tip about Rod.
Thank you!
Blessings to you/yours ... 🙋🏻🌄☕✝️🇺🇲
Thanks, Carla.
Always good information.
Stainless bolts into aluminum are a must, plain steel bolts will start to corrode aluminum in a very short time. Even stainless will corrode over time, but are good much longer. I have a 15 year old Reitnouer flatbed semi trailer that needed a couple cross member supports replaced last summer and there was enough oxidation on the aluminum that I drilled the holes and installed the next size larger bolt. Reitnouer's are pretty much bolted together.Very little is welded.
Silicone sealer also works well to separate steel from aluminum when you bolt them together. A nice even coat, a bit thicker than for a gasket and let it tack up pretty well before you tighten it down.
I like the pics you've been using in the intro's lately and hope Linda is recovering well. My thoughts are with you all
Thanks for the info, Lynn. Very helpful. Linda is doing great working on range of motion on the ankle.
@@gonagain Glad to hear that, looking forward to seeing new videos of the two of you out and about.
Being a pilot I like the new intros with the plane’s. Nice quick add to the trailer.
Seems awfully warm up there... We're freezing down here in... Oh wait. I just saw future Rick. Lol! Best wishes to Linda and your lovely daughter!
Future Rick is still freezing!
Today in NYC we had a lovely day. Tomorrow snow /rain. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND HERE!?!?
You never gotten them on without that great help…. Lol
For a minute I was wondering about the weather, but you brought things back to reality.
Good install video, and the hands on help from your daughter.
Great video as always, Sir Rick! Enjoying the photo montages at the beginning, too. Take care!
Thank you! Appreciate hearing that.
Wow, I did not know that. Great video. I hope all is well for the both o f you.
Hope all is going well for you too, Betty. How's your tiny home?
@@gonagain she is coming along great.
Thank you so much! I have literally looked everywhere for a tutorial on these. I was about to lose my mind. I bought a pop-up and couldn't figure out for the life of me how to use these. You saved my husband from hearing his wife scream and throw things bc I couldn't work these lol! Blessing to the family!
All the knowledge I'm learning prior to investing in my adventure. Thank you for saving me future time, money, and skills.
Happy to help!
I backed into a Stump and bents one of mine. Later on It fell out and I lost the drop down leg. I guess it WAS sacrificial...
I have new Heavy one to put on as a replacement. and yes, I too have that plate to bolt onto.
The struts on my trailer come out the back not to the side...I wonder if they are bolted or welded,,,I'll have to check. I love that you showed the rod to jack them up as there was a small rod in the trailer and I thought is was something they left in here by mistake....Now I know what it is for...Great video as always !!
We had one pair of those jacks that came with the rod, but most of them don't include it. And no one ever explained what it's for!
I've been putting my nose down with two simple Jack stands in the back, been working fine for me so far.
And it's simple too, I like that.
nice video, rick...thanks for sharing..
Gypsy J, van/trailer..
Nikki is a very talented & industrious young woman!!!
“Sacrificial struts” nice! I always wondered how you kept those little trailers from shaking. You could maybe chuck that tap to your impact driver next time at its lowest speed setting? Thanks for another cool video!
I need to find that tap handle and put it back with the taps where it belongs! The thing about using a tap is that you have to work it in and out as you go.
@@gonagain Fair point! That tap handle is probably right where you left it. 😉
Great job on the install. There one thing that you might want to do is undo them and put some silicone in between them so you don't get electrolysis between the two different metals.or put a rubber gasket. The electrolysis will eat up the aluminum and corrode. Hope that help. Love watching your videos.
The electrolysis between aluminum and steel isn't much of a problem out here where they don't salt the roads. Aluminum and brass, bronze or copper is an absolute no-no though.
@@gonagain I would still take precaution doesn't hurt.
Love every single one of your videos Rick and Linda, tyvm for the great content
Thank you, William, that means a LOT!
@@gonagain you are beyond welcome, your tenacity to enjoy what God blessed us with, encourages me to proceed on,and enjoy our God given environment, full time, as I have already begun to do
Great tip about using the rod. Amazing how many dont know how to set these up properly.
Another informative video Rick and you did a great public service by wearing safety glasses; it's not a great hardship and could ultimately prevent a life changing injury. Much appreciated!
It seems you have a video for everything regarding these conversions, all very thorough and helpful. I picked up a 7x12 yesterday to convert into a toy hauler camper for a motorcycle. Your videos will be a very helpful tool during the building process so thank you
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for your videos, they have been very helpful to me.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching.
I had thought about installing those jacks, but was afraid of accidental damage.
Bought 4 aluminum jack stands instead they work fine for my applications.
Thanks for sharing I know they will work well for your Daughter !
Take Care You out jogging yet Linda ?
Hope your mending well. Spring is almost here.
ENJOY ALL !
Not yet, Murray!
Linda
@@gonagain Take Care , Soon enough you'll be there ! God Bless you Two and Family
Nice job and nice helper makes things easier. Glad you where your daughters helper :^{ ) . Stay safe and hope Linda is still getting better.
I did learn something. Thank you for sharing your video.
Glad it was helpful!
That is something I often say about tools, "I have it. Somewhere."
I had struts on my cargo trailer, but I had to get all the way on the ground and fight getting them lowered being old and weak. But my Son-in-law bolted 4 scissor jack’s that I open and close with my drill, and it saves me so much time and pain.
I like those too but haven't had the need to switch.
Thanks for this video dude! This helped me so much on an inherited trailer with these types of jacks on them.
Wonderful 💕 Nice sharing
I have the same jacks…..work perfectly on my 6x12 metal frame. In addition to the bolts, i put a small tack weld on each side of the jack plates for more safety.
No judgment here. I just wanted to say thanks for a great DIY project. P.S. We hope Linda is doing well!!
Thanks! And Linda is out of her cast, into a boot and working on walking...baby steps.
@Gonagain That's great news! If you recall, my wife fell from a Zip line 13' and suffered pilon fractures in Both legs. Here Dr. Is very pleased with here progress. We're sure Linda will be in great shape soon!!
Hope she's back to 100% soon. So many folks suffered injuries this year. We have to be more careful while having fun, I guess.
My trailer has two rear pedestals to keep the tongue from rising when you lower the ramp. They don't stabilize rocking and the adjustment holes are about 2" apart, so I usually need to shim one; often both. Definitely not seismic Class I. I think you just showed me what I should do. To use the ramp as a patio, I need a pair at the end of the ramp, too. Thanks. Blessings to you, Linda, and the kids.
I store my tap-and-die handle with my taps and dies, somewhere.
I should get a toolbox with a bright orange label that says "SOMEWHERE".
I think I remember my old pop up camper back in the 80’s had those struts with the rods.great video. I’ve been planning another long road trip to Utah later this year, but the price of gas may change my plans. Our last trip out there cost $2,000 in gas when it was $2.50 - $3.00 per gallon. Now I’m thinking twice about going that far. Hope Linda if doing well.
I think we're all thinking about that but l'm ok if it helps save Ukrainian lives.
Hello George, we're in the same predicament as you (and most other folks these days) trying to get by with the price of gas being so high. Not sure where our channel is heading if we can't afford to travel! For the time being we'll be doing local trips.
@@gonagain You do show places and knowledge in your travels but you do have knowledge, like the videos you did while riding the bikes. It has been as much your mind as it has been where you were. A will will find the way.
If you make or have mad3 a good living, you should be able to cushion the exspence, while still enjoying your life. Covid left us deprived.
I have Save-A-Jack removable scissor jack mounting points for mine. You do have to place the jacks on the mounting points once at your location, but since they aren't under the trailer while it is moving, there is zero chance of them being damaged or damaging the trailer frame or cross tubes/bars if contact is made with a rock or other obstacle. The Save-A-Jack mounts can be hard to find sometimes to purchase though.
That's a good option.
Thank you 👍
Good job.
Next time you tap aluminum, try dipping the tap in diesel or kerosene; far better than any tap fluid on the market. Also works good with cast iron and stainless.
Thanks for the tip, Carl.
Yep. Thanks for the reminder.😊👍
Nice job thank you.
Nice I was contemplating doing those on my trailer and with this video I think I can do it😊 thank you.. you're always so informative on do it yourself projects👍👍 keep the great videos coming!!!!!
Always great information and will try them on mine, probably after I try making your beer bread👍
Go for it! Thanks for watching!
And here I've always used 5 gal buckets on my trailer. (flatbed)
Sometimes simple is best, Jim.
Ah Yes, just what is needed for stability. Rick, ya did it Again, with more important equipment. My rig is Way Tall off the ground bc I had the Axel flipped when it was built. Tons of clearance, but Loads of wind resistance. Yikes. It has vertical 'stabilizers' built-in that drop down, but are Too short. That's cause the rig is Too Tall. l should get these to add for even More rock solid 'Equality'. (have several wooden blocks to make up the Difference) is there a brand name for these angled goodies??? As Always, Thanks for your expertise. 👊 God Bless. Oh, I just found the link 🤗
I'm impressed was that a "Turbo-Prop" .... I considered those same stabilizers and was also concerned about Clearance .... for me I opted out ... I figured the automotive Jack Stands I was using did a good job plus I always travel with at least one Jack Stand for vehicle repair so I consider them dual purpose ... I once changed both rear differential axle bearings on my SUV in a parking lot while on trip and Jack Stands were an absolute .... something to think about if you're a car guy ...
If jacks are painted steel and not aluminum, watch out for dissimilar metals corroding. Hardware must be stainless. I was wondering if the frame you attached to was a "L" channel or "C" channel where you could have used washers and nuts/bolts to afix the jacks to aluminum frame member. Could not tell from video concerning openness for mounting. Thanks for sharing.
nice .. thx ! Very helpful !
i gave you a thumbs up , but i see a problem with that stabilizer posts, if your on the trail and you bottom out on a dip in the road, . solution, install 2 large roller wheels in the rear under the doors , so if you bottom out, it will hit the roller wheels instead of the support braces? harbor freight i ould say 6" min. wheels in cover the support braces drop.
I hear ya. We decided to take the chance on Nikki's trailer because she doesn't go down the type of roads that Linda and I do. We'll see though.
That's a good idea.
@@gonagainjust normal driving in/out of a driveway it can happen? i tell this to people all the time with travel /towhaulers , trailers that have a long over hang of the rear axle, , it cheap insurance , the roller wheels i like are 6" or * " wheels , red neophene . peole say all the time that looks stupid , well it saves the trailer from damage that w/o WILL COST YOU MONEY EACH TIME???
I think I would do the mount different I would of mounted a piece of angle Iron caty corner across the corned or a piece of flat steel caty corner then I would drill and tap the steel piece and the end of the steel would have two bolts in each end to make more secure
Thanks for showing the install. Is it possible to install them along the walls instead of by the doors. Just didn’t know if they would be more out of the way. They would still fold down to the same corner
I think you could, and I don't think the angle would make too much of a difference.
You could consider getting two 6"X6"X1/4" steel plates and put one in each corner up inside the aluminum framing. Then mark your stabilizer mount and drill your plate. Then mark the plate on the floor bottom and drill through the floor and put carriage bolts down through the floor, plate and stabilizer.
Or get two strips of steel like the aluminum ones on your trailer. Get them approximately 6 inches longer than the distance from the rear frame to the first cross bar and bend 3 inches on each end down and bolt them into the frame and cross bar. Mount the stabilizer into the steel strip. Either way the stabilizer will be able to fold up inside the frame like yours do on your trailer.
Are those leveling jacks?
Those are struts that help stabilize the trailer after leveling. It helps keep the trailer from rocking or bouncing when walking around inside.
😃👍
Hi there, try it ; insert your files into your drill, adjust your drill speed to low and that’s it!
Thanks for the tip!
Tapping Aluminum .... - that's Cheating........... How Far is Niki's trailer along ? Plumbed ? Wired ? Heat ?
I have been trying to figure out which stands to go with. Building an outdoor adventure trailer from a stand utility trailer. I noticed in the description you listed two sizes of these jacks, which did you install (length). I don't need additional height to the trailer but was thinking oof installing one on each corner. Is there a need for a jack on each corner of the trailer as you say, put the back ones down and adjust tongue jack, we will not be sleeping on the trailer AR Awning and deluxe room will hang off the side of the trailer. Thanks for a very informative and instructional video. Daughter is too cool to get an umbrella. Thanks, and much appreciated.
I suggest measuring the height of the rear of the trailer when it's level and using that to determine the proper strut to buy. After years of use, we never did get any sort of screw jack for the front two corners.
Viewed again your SungLife cordless pressure washer 320psi review vid. Heads up: $55.91 on Amazon free shipping, just ordered it. Should do a new job I have for it now.
Mine is a little hard to get it to prime so that it draws up the water, but that was an early model. My favorite use for it now is for cleaning bikes! It's great for that.
Wouldn't it be easier to mount them on the outside instead of underneath?
I'm hoping to get mine installed tomorrow. But now I might wait to see if you answer this Question first... Are they still on the trailer or were they knocked off from slamming/dragging on the ground?
They're still on the trailer.
Much appreciated!!! Happy camping!
Seems they rusted fairly fast. Any tips on keeping the rust away?
Ours are rusty and need to be repainted.
I installed the same stabilizers on my trailer and forgot to put them up after my first trip and bent them so badly that I had to remove them. I hope that doesn’t happen to you.
Thanks for the tip on the rod and jacking up the strut. I've been using these struts for several decades and I've never even heard of that capability.
One major thing you did wrong installing your struts... steel strut + aluminum frame = disaster. Just like you can't weld steel to aluminum, it's extremely bad to attach or fasten steel and aluminum directly together. It's like, on a more molecular level, they work against each other and cause expedited corrosion and breakdown of the metals where they are connected.
You put steel struts on an aluminum frame and to make matters worse... you tapped the aluminum and screwed in steel bolts to hold it on.
You did mention you can't tighten the bolts too tight because aluminum is a softer metal than steel and it can, and usually does, strip them out eventually.
I would have made it a point to, if nothing else, cut some old inner tubes to make like a gasket or an insulation layer between to at least minimize the electrolysis that causes them to deteriorate the steel/aluminum so rapidly. If nothing else... apply a layer of silicone, (and let it START to dry good to always form a gasket of sorts) before you install the bolts. Also apply some silicone to the hole and threads both in the hole and on the bolt threads. It gives minimal protection against the electrolysis break down, and is just a little more protective... helping to prolong the life of the components installed.
GREAT episode here. Keep `em coming. 👍😎
Thanks Nomad, but you're wrong about steel and aluminum. They're different, but they don't react like that. If they did you'd never be able to fasten the springs, axle and ball hitch to the trailer. Now aluminum, brass, bronze and copper are a different story and should never be in contact with each other because they will definitely destroy the aluminum.
@@gonagain NOPE!!! I'm absolutely RIGHT!!! I've worked with metals since I was a kid and I know personally I'm RIGHT!!!
I know many people ignore the FACTS and put them together anyways. That's known as computerized replacement. They know they will go bad, but they figure you're going to just spend more money replacing the parts.
Just like Harley and their shift shaft coming out of the transmission... they know it's going to strip out, but they won't fix or redesign it because they make so much money from people having to bring their bikes in for repairs.
hi, about 6 yes ago i moved to Michigan after i retired from Publix supermarket after 43 yrs .any way short story Lol. a went to shelter got this little ,scared shy black dog .from the moment i got to see him he attached him self to me and he was almost 1 yr when i got him, now 4 yrs later NO one can approach me. he like a body guard. i have to watch him very close .
Sounds like your little shy black dog knew who he wanted to to care for. Thanks for sharing your dog story, Cynthia.
For me it’s, “I’ve cut this thing three times now and, it still, is coming up too short.”
I hate when I do that!
@@gonagain something to be, dis-cussed, later.
So that’s what the rods that I lost were for.
time to put springs over axle
I've thought about that, but these single axle 6x10s are already fairly high off the ground and hard to step up into. It's a future possibility though.
@@gonagain My 6x12 is the same but no room to add the stab jacks or a flip down step unless I do the spring over . so I am going to do that I guess , I do have a 4" drop axle
Hello. How did those jacks perform over time?
They work great, unless you forget to retract them before driving away. Seriously though, ours are 10 years old and are still going strong, although they could use a coat of paint.
@@gonagain Thank you again for the good information you provide.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Watch out the back bumper is only 1/8 thick
Cessna 208?
Yep!
There are some corrosion issues that can be addressed when bolting a steel jack onto an aluminum frame.
Use stainless steel bolts, and lots of threadlocker (like you used). This combination will last longer.
The best way to prevent the steel of the jack from corroding where it is in contact with the aluminum is thick paint, or a rubber gasket where they are in contact.