It never fails that I can find what I need in your videos. I have a waterfall dresser with buckled vaneer at the bottom and this was the perfect solution! Thank you so much for sharing these videos with us!
Very useful information. I was a bit surprised you did not cover the glue with wax paper before clamping, but it did seem to release pretty easily. Thanks for sharing.
Loved this - I'm working on a piece right now that is currently under a clamp per my husband's recommendation - your video has given me hope - thank you :) love the farm scenes too!
Hi mate. I'm a new subscriber, and love your work. I have grown up amidst antique and love it to bits. My parents even had a small painting of Rembrandt van Rein's father, painted by one of Rembrandt's students. It was sitting in a large gold coloured open cut Italian frame. It was so wonderful, that I could watch it for hours on end. I can see that you absolutely love antiques as-well. Because our furniture was being used, often small bits of veneer would fall of, and dad would not be able to repair it. I wish I knew than what you have shown me, I would have been able to make some small sympathetic repairs. Most of our furniture was English, in the 70s and 80s England must have been plundered from all her most wonderful pieces, now living all over the world. Keep up the good work mate. Marcel.
I sincerely appreciate your videos! I learned a lot but sometimes it's to challenging for me . When I hire a pro , I now have a great deal of appreciation for good quality work. Thank you!
You've given me hope! I was so relieved when you showed the veneer buckling on this piece-- it looks *exactly* like the damage I'm trying to repair on an old wooden Victrola shipping box. If you were able to fix the piece in this video, then surely I can make mine look passable again. Thank you!!
Thomas I'm having to repair a failed contact adhesive between a Mango, paper backed veneer and the substrate. I'm hoping to work a better adhesive in between and reclamp the panel similar to this video but I'm looking for those thin, blunt knives you use. Are the a pallet knife perhaps? I really enjoy watching your videos. They are both extremely informative and relaxing.
I wish I had watched your video earlier! I pulled a piece of damaged Mahogany top layer not knowing it could be saved. Your veneer repair video brought me here. There's still another layer which is popped up and I am going to use your method to glue it in place. Thanks for great videos.
I hope to see a follow-up video with the finished piece. It kind of looks like a wreck. Probably due to poor storage (damp basement, attic, or garage).
Tom, thank you for all your videos -- I learn a great deal from you and have inspired me to get into antique repair. If you are able to comment, I have my 88 year old friend's dinning leaf that the veneer has bubbled in the middle of the leaf. The top is finished, and would like to know if I use heat, will that wreck the finish on the leaf, or how should I approach the fix? Thinking if I can heat it and loosen the attached areas around the bubble, glue can then be put under and clamped. I don't want to disturb the finish, as it matches the rest of the table. Thanks. Brett
Thanks! I use a pallet knife and a syringe, and work hide glue or carpenter's glue (use a water based glue) under the raised part and clamp it down, using flat blocks covered with plastic packing tape. Excess glue will wash off with a damp rag
Hi Tom, I have an antique desk that has a veneer cover. It has buckled on the top of the desk. How do you fix it without putting a clamp since I will not be able to clamp it down since it is the whole top of the table?
I just purchased an antique dresser that has veneer coming up on the bottom on the sides of the piece. I would love to try this heat gun with glue and clamping method you used. Do you mind if I ask what brand of heat gun you used? Does it matter? Sorry I am a complete newbie and need to go out and purchase one. I didn't know if there was one that was better to use on antiques. Thank you!
I am refinishing some antique beds (total novice and doing everything wrong so far). It's taken me so long that the veneer is starting to warp. The wood seems very dried out and brittle now. In order to glue the veneer back down could I just heat it up with heat gun and glue it down or would I need a mixture like glycerin and methylated spirits to make it pliable first? What glue do you recommend for large pieces of veneer? Thx!
Thanks! Yes, you should be able to reheat and clamp. Check the humidity levels of your work space. maybe you need a humidifier. It never pays to let things sit!
Thanks for your reply.The bubbled veneer is on drawer fronts of a 300 year old American William and Mary highboy.Could I email some images of the bubbled veneer?@@johnsonrestoration
This was really informative, but the problem I have is the veneer on both side panels of a chifferobe I'm trying to partially restore has buckled lengthwise along the grain on pretty much the entire panel. I'm not sure how I would go about regluing the veneer to the wood underneath. Can you offer some advice?
Thanks! You can work glue into those cracks and clamp it, but it sounds like the clamping could be difficult. You would just do one side at a time. If you can't clamp you can "hammer veneer" it. Google that, I don't have any videos on that
Hi, thank you for your videos. I've noticed that your videos became shorter. Can you say why? I loved your detailed videos, but now I have a feeling that I watch a demo versions :)
Lately I've been putting up shorter videos while I'm making some longer ones. There will be plenty of more detailed ones. I'm always worried about making them too long. Thanks for watching! Tom
I made mine using a jointer, taking a little off each end. You could also do it with a table saw. I don't know what tools you have or your skill level.
Thank you for this great video Tom! I have a Singer Bentwood Wood Case with a large part of the front side peeling. It's a curved area so - how would you approach being able to clamp down the whole area at once? Thank you again. `Page
You're welcome! Too much question for the comment page. Check out my videos on veneer repair, I hope you find the info you need. Here's one with a curved surface ua-cam.com/video/kdPkwyvekXc/v-deo.html
Is there a noticeable difference between Hide glue and modern glue? Maybe quality or adhesiveness? Do you use Hide glue to maintain the originality of a piece or is there other purposes? Great video!
Hi. I have a piece with flame mahogany veneer on the drawer that has seperated in the middle, no matter how flat I clamp it I can't get the pieces to meet back in the middle. Is there some sort of fancy trick?
Thanks for watching. I've had the same thing happen. You can either fill the crack and touch it up, or remove the veneer entirely and glue it back so it meets correctly
Hi again. Rather interested in the practice of using an old iron to heat the surface, and then as the glue re-hardens to use a veneering "hammer" to press the veneer down again. Interested in your, or anyone else's, comment on this.
I've done that, and it can work. Sometimes not! So in the shop I always clamp. But that technique really comes in handy for curved surfaces or any place where clamping's not practical. But I'll always clamp when I can
Why doesn't the clamping board stick to the work piece? It appears the excess glue spreads out, therefore , I would think that as you removed the board it would pull the veneer.
Hi! I came upon your video when looking for help in repairing a 1925 Bentwood case for a Singer sewing machine. would this technique work in that case? one side is warped from what appears to be water damage. Thanks! :-)
+Liz Cherry Hi Liz, thanks for watching. I'm sure this would work on any situation. I haven't seen your sewing machine but I'm imagining what the situation is, and you should try it
The old cowboy saying. It s/b “cut us off at the pass” my meaning: the video ended too soon. I was ready to see it all finished and pretty- and you saying “looks good”
It never fails that I can find what I need in your videos. I have a waterfall dresser with buckled vaneer at the bottom and this was the perfect solution! Thank you so much for sharing these videos with us!
You're welcome! That's great! That's what really makes me happy
Tom sure knows his craft! Thanks so much for sharing sir.
You're welcome!
Very useful information. I was a bit surprised you did not cover the glue with wax paper before clamping, but it did seem to release pretty easily. Thanks for sharing.
Hi James, thanks for watching! Those boards I use as cauls have packing tape on them. So much easier then wax paper, which I used for years!
Loved this - I'm working on a piece right now that is currently under a clamp per my husband's recommendation - your video has given me hope - thank you :) love the farm scenes too!
+mellibee100 You're welcome, and thanks for watching. What would we do without our animals? They help keep things in perspective. Tom
Is there a pt 2? I wondered how the piece turned out. Thanks.
Same here!
Always a great job 👍
Thomas
Many thanks!
Hi mate. I'm a new subscriber, and love your work. I have grown up amidst antique and love it to bits. My parents even had a small painting of Rembrandt van Rein's father, painted by one of Rembrandt's students. It was sitting in a large gold coloured open cut Italian frame. It was so wonderful, that I could watch it for hours on end. I can see that you absolutely love antiques as-well. Because our furniture was being used, often small bits of veneer would fall of, and dad would not be able to repair it. I wish I knew than what you have shown me, I would have been able to make some small sympathetic repairs. Most of our furniture was English, in the 70s and 80s England must have been plundered from all her most wonderful pieces, now living all over the world. Keep up the good work mate. Marcel.
+Marcel Timmers Thanks Marcel, I appreciate it
I sincerely appreciate your videos! I learned a lot but sometimes it's to challenging for me . When I hire a pro , I now have a great deal of appreciation for good quality work. Thank you!
You're welcome! Yes, I like showing people how much goes into this work, we all take a lot for granted
Thank you it was helpfull. I'm restoring old chair with plywood seat and I will try it tomorrow. Have a good day!
Good luck!
Thanks, Tom. I learn something(s) from every video you post. Great work as always!
Thanks!
That looked tricky but as with everything, you made the repair look easy. Nice.
Thanks!
I love that dog at the beginning. Had me cracking up!
Thanks! Ella keeps us smiling all the time!
You've given me hope! I was so relieved when you showed the veneer buckling on this piece-- it looks *exactly* like the damage I'm trying to repair on an old wooden Victrola shipping box. If you were able to fix the piece in this video, then surely I can make mine look passable again. Thank you!!
You're welcome! Good luck! Just be sure you figure out how to clamp it before you glue it
Thomas I'm having to repair a failed contact adhesive between a Mango, paper backed veneer and the substrate. I'm hoping to work a better adhesive in between and reclamp the panel similar to this video but I'm looking for those thin, blunt knives you use. Are the a pallet knife perhaps? I really enjoy watching your videos. They are both extremely informative and relaxing.
Thanks! Yes, those are pallet knives from an art supply store. Sounds like a mess!
I wish I had watched your video earlier! I pulled a piece of damaged Mahogany top layer not knowing it could be saved. Your veneer repair video brought me here. There's still another layer which is popped up and I am going to use your method to glue it in place. Thanks for great videos.
Good luck!
Very helpful video. Thank you.
You're welcome!
I hope to see a follow-up video with the finished piece. It kind of looks like a wreck. Probably due to poor storage (damp basement, attic, or garage).
Hi Sooth, yes, we're doing a video on the entire project. It was a wreck.
Tedious work, and i'm with Matt will there be a video for the finished product............ Please.
Real curious to see the finished veneer work.
Yes, we're doing a video on the entire project. I'm trying to make more short videos on very specific problems like this.
Great video, thanks so much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Tom, thank you for all your videos -- I learn a great deal from you and have inspired me to get into antique repair. If you are able to comment, I have my 88 year old friend's dinning leaf that the veneer has bubbled in the middle of the leaf. The top is finished, and would like to know if I use heat, will that wreck the finish on the leaf, or how should I approach the fix? Thinking if I can heat it and loosen the attached areas around the bubble, glue can then be put under and clamped. I don't want to disturb the finish, as it matches the rest of the table. Thanks. Brett
Thanks! I use a pallet knife and a syringe, and work hide glue or carpenter's glue (use a water based glue) under the raised part and clamp it down, using flat blocks covered with plastic packing tape. Excess glue will wash off with a damp rag
Beautiful... Great Thom
Thank you! I hope for you a great Holiday Season!
@@johnsonrestoration I wish the same you to and your family!!!
Ahhhhh! Need to see the rest of it! Ifyou have time please set up that new camera again.
Hi Bill, there will be a video on the entire project soon. Thanks for watching!
Tom
Awesome! Nice video
Thank you!
Hi Tom, I have an antique desk that has a veneer cover. It has buckled on the top of the desk. How do you fix it without putting a clamp since I will not be able to clamp it down since it is the whole top of the table?
Hi Lena, email some photos: thomasjohnsonrestoration@gmail.com
I just purchased an antique dresser that has veneer coming up on the bottom on the sides of the piece. I would love to try this heat gun with glue and clamping method you used. Do you mind if I ask what brand of heat gun you used? Does it matter? Sorry I am a complete newbie and need to go out and purchase one. I didn't know if there was one that was better to use on antiques. Thank you!
Thanks! No particular brand, but a hair dryer works just as well! The main thing is to be sure you can clamp that veneer down well
I am refinishing some antique beds (total novice and doing everything wrong so far). It's taken me so long that the veneer is starting to warp. The wood seems very dried out and brittle now. In order to glue the veneer back down could I just heat it up with heat gun and glue it down or would I need a mixture like glycerin and methylated spirits to make it pliable first? What glue do you recommend for large pieces of veneer? Thx!
Thanks! Yes, you should be able to reheat and clamp. Check the humidity levels of your work space. maybe you need a humidifier. It never pays to let things sit!
a cliffhanger! will there be a part II?
Oh yes! We're doing a video on the entire project
Thomas Johnson where is it?!?! ;-)
Does the finish need to be stripped prior to using heat ,hide glue and clamping?I love your informative videos and admire your skills!
Thanks! No, in fact that would be harmful as you don't want stripper in all the defects. Always do all your repairs before stripping
Thanks for your reply.The bubbled veneer is on drawer fronts of a 300 year old American William and Mary highboy.Could I email some images of the bubbled veneer?@@johnsonrestoration
What is your dog's name and how old is he or she?
This was really informative, but the problem I have is the veneer on both side panels of a chifferobe I'm trying to partially restore has buckled lengthwise along the grain on pretty much the entire panel. I'm not sure how I would go about regluing the veneer to the wood underneath. Can you offer some advice?
Thanks! You can work glue into those cracks and clamp it, but it sounds like the clamping could be difficult. You would just do one side at a time. If you can't clamp you can "hammer veneer" it. Google that, I don't have any videos on that
I would be worried after I took the clamps off that the board would be glued down to the veneer. How did you prevent that?
Hi Nancy! It's not very noticeable, but all my glue blocks are covered with plastic packing tape. I hate plastic, but it sure works well for this!
@@johnsonrestoration Great. I will try that. I also saw someone in another video used wax paper. I didn't watch the entire video....
Hi, thank you for your videos. I've noticed that your videos became shorter. Can you say why? I loved your detailed videos, but now I have a feeling that I watch a demo versions :)
Lately I've been putting up shorter videos while I'm making some longer ones. There will be plenty of more detailed ones. I'm always worried about making them too long. Thanks for watching!
Tom
Mr Jonhsom, could you explain how I could make a camber board?
I made mine using a jointer, taking a little off each end. You could also do it with a table saw. I don't know what tools you have or your skill level.
I gotta see how it turns out!
Thanks!
Thank you for this great video Tom! I have a Singer Bentwood Wood Case with a large part of the front side peeling. It's a curved area so - how would you approach being able to clamp down the whole area at once? Thank you again. `Page
You're welcome! Too much question for the comment page. Check out my videos on veneer repair, I hope you find the info you need. Here's one with a curved surface ua-cam.com/video/kdPkwyvekXc/v-deo.html
Is there a noticeable difference between Hide glue and modern glue? Maybe quality or adhesiveness?
Do you use Hide glue to maintain the originality of a piece or is there other purposes?
Great video!
Hi Andrew, Thanks for watching! I use hide glue on antiques, just to try to keep everything original. Modern glue is fine to use.
Is there a glue you recommend
Hi. I have a piece with flame mahogany veneer on the drawer that has seperated in the middle, no matter how flat I clamp it I can't get the pieces to meet back in the middle. Is there some sort of fancy trick?
Thanks for watching. I've had the same thing happen. You can either fill the crack and touch it up, or remove the veneer entirely and glue it back so it meets correctly
Have you ever thought of using a hyperdermic needle to get hide glue ( thinned) under those losse veneers?
Thanks! Until recently I couldn’t find needles big enough. I’ve been using them lately and they’re great. I have used them in subsequent videos
Hi Tom,
My piece has a lot of varnish or lacquer of some sort on it, do I need to remove this before I attempt to repair the veneer?
+Nick Pettipas Hi Nick, I usually do all repairs first. I don't want to get stripper and solvents in the places I need to glue later.
Hi again. Rather interested in the practice of using an old iron to heat the surface, and then as the glue re-hardens to use a veneering "hammer" to press the veneer down again. Interested in your, or anyone else's, comment on this.
I've done that, and it can work. Sometimes not! So in the shop I always clamp. But that technique really comes in handy for curved surfaces or any place where clamping's not practical. But I'll always clamp when I can
When you put the board on to clamp, was the glue still wet? I wondered it so, what kept it all from sticking to your pine board....
Thanks for watching! The clamping block is covered with plastic packing tape
Thank you
Why doesn't the clamping board stick to the work piece? It appears the excess glue spreads out, therefore , I would think that as you removed the board it would pull the veneer.
Thanks! I should remind people that the blocks are covered with packing tape
Lovely!
Thank you!
Hi! I came upon your video when looking for help in repairing a 1925 Bentwood case for a Singer sewing machine. would this technique work in that case? one side is warped from what appears to be water damage. Thanks! :-)
+Liz Cherry Hi Liz, thanks for watching. I'm sure this would work on any situation. I haven't seen your sewing machine but I'm imagining what the situation is, and you should try it
what's the name of this adhesive? woau respect bravo❤👍
Thanks! I'm using hide glue en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Animal_glue
@@johnsonrestoration danke ich werde kaufen 👍🙋♂️❤
Thomas, what kind of putty do you recommend?
I use 2 kinds - Famo Wood for small quick fill ins, and Mohawk Epoxy Putty, also known as "tootsie-roll" putty for larger areas and corners, etc.
Where do you purchase the glue spatulas?
Any art supply store has a lot of different spatulas
Ciao Thomas 👍👏👌
Hello Mattia!
Cute pup
Yes she is! Thanks!
Too bad you didn't show the end result.
Here's another video showing the end result of the entire restoration ua-cam.com/video/EObF7qMpCKU/v-deo.html
Cut us off at the passed. The veneer smoothed out - should look good. The end.
Thanks! I'm wondering what you mean by "cut us off"
The old cowboy saying. It s/b “cut us off at the pass” my meaning: the video ended too soon. I was ready to see it all finished and pretty- and you saying “looks good”