So to recap, primer one has to be put on before primer two but primer one too has to be put on over primer two too, primer one too and two too have to be applied separately as primer two too and one too can become primer three too. Got that? Good
Don't be misled into thinking this is an easy process to apply because it isn't. It is also very expensive to do an area as large as a double garage floor for instance.
I second that. I am currently looking for something similar on a shoestring budget to smoothen out recently grinded floor prior applying sealer. And it would need to withstand infrequent pump truck and engine hoist use. If anyone in comment section knows a good, cheap product, let me know. Thanks.
Would have been great to see the finished product. Question: Would this work for a residential floor? What does it feel like when walked on in bare feet?
@@kentonp21 No. I tried staining the concrete which didn't work because the patched carpet tack holes came out a different color and looked like little stains, and tried "solid color stain" which looked like paint. Decided to go with engineered hardwood. If I had to do a kitchen I would just do tile.
1. If you do the floor in sections, and you do primer one and two, and then the mixed compound, and you have 20 minutes for it to set, and then you start with another section, and it takes like 10 minutes or more to do the primer part and then more time to do the next mixed compound, when you come to an edge where two areas meet, and you use the spiked tool, I assume you better stop short of the first area or you will ruin it with marks. And how do you make sure it becomes one smooth surface if the first area is already set and a wet area meets it. Won't that create a seam look? 2. If you are doing a room with 4 walls and a door, I guess you have to make sure you work your way from the farthest corner first and back toward the door right?
What would you do if you had a hole on the floor with many many cracks in the garage. I’m not sure what I should be doing I’m not trying to contacts a contractor yet
@@pamelahernandez9986 I would repair a hole with mortar. They sell a small bag of mortar repair at Lowes or HD. Cracks are usually repaired with a more liquid epoxy.
Can you work a new section if the previous section has completely cured? I'd like to do my basement in segments of time, not just space. It would be a huge hassle to clear everything out of the basement and do it all in a single day. I'd rather move everything to one side, do half the floor and allow it to completely set, then move everything again and finish the remaining half. Will the two sections bond properly if one has already set? Would there be a visible demarcation?
Hi Dani, We would not advise the separate applications as it will have a noticeable break between the two sections which could move over time and create a stress / weak point in the surface. It does, however, depend on the depth you are laying it at, but it should be considered a resurfacer and not a repair and should therefore be done as one application. If you'd like to discuss this further with one of our Technical Advisors, they are available monday-friday, 8:00am - 5:30pm on 01483 418 418.
+Robert Fallon Hello Robert, if the surface has been painted you should remove as much paint as possible, especially any loose material. It's okay if small traces of paint remain, as long as they are well bonded. Here is a link to the product on our website, where you can find a technical data sheet as well as an application guide - www.watco.co.uk/watco-flowtop.html If you would like more advice on this, or any other Watco product, please call our experts on 01491 418 418 or send us an email on sales@watco.co.uk and we will get back to you.
Hi, The Flowtop will give a hard wearing level finish that will be porous. We normally suggest painting it with our epoxy coatings to obtain a sealed surface. Thanks Scott
Can this be added over an area where old linoleum has been pulled up and stubborn patches of glued paper backing remain? Will it simply level everything out?
Hi Avner, Thank you for your message. Flowtop is designed to be applied to bare concrete. It's supplied with two primers that you apply in advance & then the main pourable mix is applied on top. I would not recommend applying the system to glued paper. If that could be removed (I know it’s not easy) mechanically or otherwise. Then Flowtop will level an uneven concrete surface. If there are any further questions please don’t hesitate to call our main number 01483 418418.
Very nice video. With our brand new nail shoe-clog ,,Nivilli" Made in Germany the work would have become a real pleasure. This is only possible with the right tools. But see even in our video ... Greetings from Heidelberg / Germany
+etoyize Hello, how long it lasts all depends on the environment - Flowtop is fibre reinforced & designed to withstand forklift truck traffic and general industrial use so is pretty hard wearing, and will last under general foot traffic for many years. If you would like more information & some expert advice on this give us a call on 01483 418 418 and talk to one of our advisors.
Hello Jeff, Flowtop is just for interior use, due to the nature of the product when curing it could be affected by wind and direct sunlight, and so would not cure properly causing cracking if applied outside. If you are looking for a similar product for outdoors we would suggest Concrete Resurfacer ( www.watco.co.uk/concrete-resurfacer.html ) - it is not self-levelling like Flowtop, but it is easily applied by squeegee. If you would like further advice on what to use for your job please call us on 01483 418 418, where a Watco expert can advise you based on your needs.
@@WatcoCoUk Is there a equal product in the states? We have Quikrete resurfacer, and RapidSet Resurfacer, but I dont think they can have a selfleveling trowel sooth finish....Maybe they can?
20sqft for the 5 gallon!!!? I hope not. But I would think a 1/16" or 1/8" would be the thickness needed for a number of applications, but some areas for use would be to even out the level as it is self leveling. I always thought all liquids are self leveling.
It's satisfying when the slick floor is formed
i realize I am pretty randomly asking but do anybody know a good website to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Ira Dangelo i use Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
@Boone Jalen Yup, have been using flixzone for years myself :)
@Boone Jalen thanks, signed up and it seems like a nice service =) I appreciate it!
@Ira Dangelo you are welcome xD
So to recap,
primer one has to be put on before primer two but primer one too has to be put on over primer two too, primer one too and two too have to be applied separately as primer two too and one too can become primer three too.
Got that?
Good
Don't be misled into thinking this is an easy process to apply because it isn't. It is also very expensive to do an area as large as a double garage floor for instance.
I second that. I am currently looking for something similar on a shoestring budget to smoothen out recently grinded floor prior applying sealer. And it would need to withstand infrequent pump truck and engine hoist use. If anyone in comment section knows a good, cheap product, let me know. Thanks.
Would have been great to see the finished product. Question: Would this work for a residential floor? What does it feel like when walked on in bare feet?
Thinking of doing this for our kitchen...did you end up trying it?
@@kentonp21 No. I tried staining the concrete which didn't work because the patched carpet tack holes came out a different color and looked like little stains, and tried "solid color stain" which looked like paint. Decided to go with engineered hardwood. If I had to do a kitchen I would just do tile.
@@hughseagraves7036 Gotcha, thanks for the info!
feels like walking on a floor
Let’s say you have to replace it how would you do that
Waited throughout the video to see the finished floor.
Same!! Can't believe a whole video promoting their product without even a few seconds of showing the final result, which is what we all want to see!!
waited throughout the video to see the finished floor. 😡
me too - school boy error in their marketing video... or is the finished product not good enough to show?
Me too!!!!
I gues u will have to crawl it and trowel it down with a little bit of water to smooth the surface
1. If you do the floor in sections, and you do primer one and two, and then the mixed compound, and you have 20 minutes for it to set, and then you start with another section, and it takes like 10 minutes or more to do the primer part and then more time to do the next mixed compound, when you come to an edge where two areas meet, and you use the spiked tool, I assume you better stop short of the first area or you will ruin it with marks. And how do you make sure it becomes one smooth surface if the first area is already set and a wet area meets it. Won't that create a seam look?
2. If you are doing a room with 4 walls and a door, I guess you have to make sure you work your way from the farthest corner first and back toward the door right?
What would you do if you had a hole on the floor with many many cracks in the garage. I’m not sure what I should be doing I’m not trying to contacts a contractor yet
@@pamelahernandez9986 I would repair a hole with mortar. They sell a small bag of mortar repair at Lowes or HD. Cracks are usually repaired with a more liquid epoxy.
Why it cost so much?
Will this work if the floor is painted?
My garage floor has several oil stains on it. Would they need to be cleared off before applying?
Can you work a new section if the previous section has completely cured? I'd like to do my basement in segments of time, not just space. It would be a huge hassle to clear everything out of the basement and do it all in a single day. I'd rather move everything to one side, do half the floor and allow it to completely set, then move everything again and finish the remaining half. Will the two sections bond properly if one has already set? Would there be a visible demarcation?
Hi Dani, We would not advise the separate applications as it will have a noticeable break between the two sections which could move over time and create a stress / weak point in the surface. It does, however, depend on the depth you are laying it at, but it should be considered a resurfacer and not a repair and should therefore be done as one application.
If you'd like to discuss this further with one of our Technical Advisors, they are available monday-friday, 8:00am - 5:30pm on 01483 418 418.
Is it available in india at kerala
Is it available in India
what if the surface has been painted?
+Robert Fallon Hello Robert, if the surface has been painted you should remove as much paint as possible, especially any loose material. It's okay if small traces of paint remain, as long as they are well bonded. Here is a link to the product on our website, where you can find a technical data sheet as well as an application guide - www.watco.co.uk/watco-flowtop.html
If you would like more advice on this, or any other Watco product, please call our experts on 01491 418 418 or send us an email on sales@watco.co.uk and we will get back to you.
Can you epoxy it?
I'm going to fix my local skate park, the concrete is highly offensive. Would this be suitable>?
Can i use in a fish processing area? Can it withstand a forklift traffic..
Hi, the Watco Flowtop is fine to take fork lift traffic. Thanks Scott
If the result is good, it will show the finished product.
How long is the trying time between coats
You can do a second coat next day
Will this look like concrete, with natural trowel differentiation, or will it look like a uniform paint or epoxy?
Hi, The Flowtop will give a hard wearing level finish that will be porous. We normally suggest painting it with our epoxy coatings to obtain a sealed surface. Thanks Scott
@@WatcoCoUk Then that doesnt sound like the right product. Thanks though.
Can this be added over an area where old linoleum has been pulled up and stubborn patches of glued paper backing remain? Will it simply level everything out?
Hi Avner, Thank you for your message. Flowtop is designed to be applied to bare concrete. It's supplied with two primers that you apply in advance & then the main pourable mix is applied on top. I would not recommend applying the system to glued paper. If that could be removed (I know it’s not easy) mechanically or otherwise. Then Flowtop will level an uneven concrete surface. If there are any further questions please don’t hesitate to call our main number 01483 418418.
Very nice video. With our brand new nail shoe-clog ,,Nivilli" Made in Germany the work would have become a real pleasure. This is only possible with the right tools. But see even in our video ... Greetings from Heidelberg / Germany
Vfphgh😇😎🍊
Ggiiyggjkl.
where can i buy it in the usa?
No finished videos? No thanks
Why is this man not using a dust mask? ...and they call me dangerous.
Because you dont need it. The only dust would get is when mixing, which is a tiny amount when mixing right.
because it is just a bit and most hold their breath while it settles.
looks and sounds good, but how long can it last before it starts cracking again? 6 months? 1 year?
+etoyize Hello, how long it lasts all depends on the environment - Flowtop is fibre reinforced & designed to withstand forklift truck traffic and general industrial use so is pretty hard wearing, and will last under general foot traffic for many years. If you would like more information & some expert advice on this give us a call on 01483 418 418 and talk to one of our advisors.
You shouldn't get cracking as its similar to an epoxy like substance. Flexible and very hard wearing.
Hi, I am looking for similar concrete finish for a shop interior. How do i get the materials in abudhabi?
Did you get it...I am from future
4 non blondes as the background music .. "What's going on?" ... Lol
Does this work outdoors?
Hello Jeff, Flowtop is just for interior use, due to the nature of the product when curing it could be affected by wind and direct sunlight, and so would not cure properly causing cracking if applied outside. If you are looking for a similar product for outdoors we would suggest Concrete Resurfacer ( www.watco.co.uk/concrete-resurfacer.html ) - it is not self-levelling like Flowtop, but it is easily applied by squeegee.
If you would like further advice on what to use for your job please call us on 01483 418 418, where a Watco expert can advise you based on your needs.
@@WatcoCoUk Is there a equal product in the states? We have Quikrete resurfacer, and RapidSet Resurfacer, but I dont think they can have a selfleveling trowel sooth finish....Maybe they can?
Considering each 5 gallon bucket kit is doing roughly 20sq feet... this may be one of the more expensive flooring solutions.
20sqft for the 5 gallon!!!? I hope not. But I would think a 1/16" or 1/8" would be the thickness needed for a number of applications, but some areas for use would be to even out the level as it is self leveling. I always thought all liquids are self leveling.
That's not easy 😂