this vid is a piece of gold. 1 problem, the title tells only about leveling the floor, but it actually does leveling, subflooring, putting a vapor barrier, and flooring. so most people who need help for other things won't be able to search their way here, which is a pity.
Ron, thanks for the great video! I have the EXACT same project as yours, with the same issues...over concrete and not level and I've been scratching my head over how to do it...thanks again sir!
I did the same exact thing last year. I had a pitched slab old back porch that I converted to a sunroom. I used 9 bags of leveler to get the floor right. I used the dricore product but I went with the styrofoam one. More expensive but had a better R value. Instead of nailing down a floor over that I just floated a vinyl. I used the Mapei leveler. They give you a range of water to use. Please use the maximum amount. I went with the minimum and it was hell. Lol.
Beautiful job! The self-leveling step was explained well enough that I think I can do my own slab floor which has a lot of uneven spots. The finished floor, wow, it looks fantastic. Thanks for the great video!
Neat and clean with very thorough explanations...good job, your floor looks great...just need to go 'ice skating' on it with some polywax...thats how we took care of our hardwood floors when i was younger and didnt realize too much of what was going on besides having fun with family...it was good to see the installation from start to finish...thanks
monsieur ron travail exeptionel beaucoup plus qu il n en faut .vous ete tellment professionel que vous travaillez comme une machine .mes felicitations .
I’ve been watching Ron Hazelton and Norm Abram since I was a kid very intelligent and smart I don’t know why he is not in the ask this old house until now I’m still watching them I’ve learn a lot from them now my work is all around maintenance and handyman to all properties that I work learn a lot off lessons from this guys thanks
I need you to install my floors. Been struggling with a company for 3 weeks now. Thought I was gonna have my new floor before Christmas but it seems I wont. I'm about to do it by myself.
You might have been able to avoid the imperfections in the self leveling by using what is known as a smoother. Picture a 36" joint taping knife at the end of a broom handle which is lightly passed over the leveler at a 45 degree angle as you're pouring it out (don't wait till the end of the pour when you're out the room ; ) use 2 people, one to pour, one to smooth). This is fast, keeps you off your knees and avoids the extra work and material of patching!
Definitely would need planing down, unless it was done beforehand in preparation (I did this to mine knowing id have to add +5mm leveler and +5mm flooring) edit: sorry just realised this was a year ago 😂)
You should. Some people use silicone or a small bit of expanding foam but there's a liner made for it that's quick to fit and just roll it and hit it with the staple hammer search self leveller liner you'll find it
I do believe that the subflooring is installed incorrectly, it should be fastened to the underlayment with special poly adhesive and concrete fastener.i use Aerosmith's concrete nailer at 140 psi. Works great and btw..I do have 30 plus years of wood flooring experience.
@@ForrestGumpWR very funny. I wish I was 30 years old.listen guys , I have my way, you have yours, and Ron has several .I do not make videos I just watch them when I'm bored. There are hundreds of guys that have videos of installing floors and some of them are amazing. If you want to have a floor installed on a subfloor that is not secured, go for it. I hope it works great and last for decades but I seriously doubt it . In my opinion, subfloors need to be secured,fastened, screwed, or stuck to what your building on for many reasons. ,and I feel like people should consider adding 2 steps to the video (glue &nails on subflooring) if attempting a install based on this video or you could end up having separation, gaps, ☆moisture, and even squeaky floors.
@CB BC the subfloor has built in vapor barrier on the back of it already, which makes me wonder why he sandwiched the subfloor with another vapor barrier on top of the subfloor.
Where on earth did you get that awesome mop? It reminds me of when I was a kid when my Mom gave me that permanent job and my hands were too small to wring it out. 🙃
I used Bruce flooring like that shown Silly me I did not know that you can NEVER get it wet. I mopped it and the finish peeled up on the edges !! It was a disaster!! Was I supposed to coat it with Urethane??? Waterproof Vinyl for me from now on !!
@@jackdandridge8161 Well to be fair it does stiffen up the entire structure. Everything is staggered and there's thousands of binding points. I think this would be okay in my opinion. But I'm also admittedly not a flooring expert.
@@Clenched.Cheeks you make good points and it makes sense. Honestly ,the problem I have with it is the bouncing that will happen at some point,even with the small tongue and groove sub floor. Eventually it will damage the underlayment and without glue there will be moisture and then subfloor movement and eventually seperation of the flooring. All long term problems,I'm sure he was happy with it.. Again,this may work in some places not in texas .
So why would you put plastic sheathing above the underlayment wood? I thought the plastic cupped grid on the underlayment was the vapor barrier? I agree it could protect your floor, but won't this create the possibility of more mold instead of less? Wouldn't a seal on the leveling concrete be a better idea?
Catherine you are right on. Unlike handy man ron I am a real wood floor installer and refinisher with over 50 years experience and a former instructor. Never completely seal off a wood substrate like this The vinyl barrier goes BETWEEN the cement floor and subfloor NOTon top of the subfloor. The spaces between the subfloor squares will allow moisture to penetrate the subfloor and start it to buckle and or grow mold.. Next you NEVER start a room that is by it's self off a wall. The correct way is to find the center of the room and put the two grooves back to back with what is called a spline. inserted between them. Then one side of that tongue Is nailed and the other board with a grove is installed back to the first board with the spline inserted in it. Basically it is a two sided tongue .Now you have a tongue going toward both walls. If you start along one wall and it is not parallel to the other you will end up with a very noticeable strip narrow on one end and wide on the other end. Sanding and installing floors is an art not just a trade and you would be amazed at how many floors I have had to go behind so called handy man guys and repair or redo. Get in touch with the National Wood Floor Association and watch some of their videos on how to install a wood floor the right way and avoid costly mistakes. Hope this clarifies some things and helps you.
I am a floorlayer in Gods own county of Yorkshire ,England. I screed floors to put a variety of floorcovering down. There is a confusion between leveling and smoothing a floor. In my country especially in the north the houses are sometimes hundreds of years old so if we leveled a floor in a kitchen for instance the back door would have to be shuttered and there would only be 3foot of doorway left to get through lol. Obviously im exaggerating but the point is if you're puttind a floorcovering down over tge screed then the screed only needs to smooth the floor not level it.
I remember that product having the name of "natural reflections" when ever we had to do a glue down application especially, we called it "natural rejection" because of the amount of banana boards and the need to strap the floor as we went along to keep it tight. With enough power, and will to fight the floor would tighten up nice and the milling was good, culling was a must and the finish was top notch even back then. Long bananas okay, short bananas go away.
With some self leveling materials you can absolutely use heat tubes, it works very well. Just make sure you add enough material over the top of the tube - the manufacturer gives you the recommended thickness
I'm looking for a product to put down on a garage floor where the concrete is very bumpy and irregular. It is not smooth or looks like it was even troweled or floated. Is there anything in the market than can cover a thickness of less than 1/4 inches AND hold up to a vehicle?
Clean hands clean clothes perfect shine on his Sunday's best shoes and all with no hair out of place. I was to distracted to know or care what the video was about.
Ron. My man. This is Alex. You installed frame-posts in a couple of garages. One back in 20 years ago in my little garage and next time in Hanson Auto in S.L.C, Utah.. do you remember me.. it’s been a while. How have you been.?
What I've learned from this comment section. No double vapor barrier. Beware of "self levelling" compound, doesn't self level. I have a question. Can you put sleepers over uneven tile, in mastic, and then nail pine boards to them? I live in the woods, in area that gets a lot of rain.
Nechtan Mac Collbran Yes, it would come under the heading of specialised gear, but then self-levelling product is specialised. I actually made my own spiked roller, and then found out that they were not so expensive to buy new. Ha! But I will never use self leveller again without a spiked roller at hand. The difference is massive.
why use a bit of timber to smash up the tongue or groove edge? You use a off cut to slot in and hit that. This then stops any distortion of the T&G edges
I have a question I am about to use high end vinyl floor planking on a concrete slab the room is like couple feet below grade. Now existing are 9x9 anyway some are missing what would be best way to even floor.
#1 rule, self levelling cement does not self level!!! Dont ever pour and walk away. If you checked this floor with a 8 foot straightedge, its guaranteed not flat or level. You need to use a spiked roller, and wear spiked shoes, and walk on the wet cement and move it around with a trowel and the spiked roller in order to get a flat floor. To get a level floor, you need to chalk line a 2x2 foot grid on the cement, and use a laser to measure down to the intersecting points on the grid, and record the differences in heights. Then you can cut 2x2 fir shims at the heights and glue them down with pl premium. Now you can pour to the tops of the 2x2 fir and know that you have a perfectly level floor. The wood can be chipped out later or left in.
how can u tell if a floor is stable enough for self leveling compound? I'm not sure if my slab is still moving or not... it's cheaper than ripping out the slab and repouring it but I'd rather do that knowing it was done right than having the self leveling stuff fail after a certain number of years.....?
@@enkrypt3d If your slab is cracking from ground movement there is no product in the known universe that will not crack. There are so many variables that cause cracks in slab without mother nature being the culprit. Then there is the unstable ground factor, so you need to figure out what's going on. Bad concrete psi from dishonesty is common, how many people have a core density test preformed to check proper psi when having a home built.
@@enkrypt3d concrete always moves always as far as telling if it was done right is all but impossible if its not cracked up then its probably okay if it has many cracks you have problems. If you need or want more help I would be happy to give you some advice. I am a retired General contractor of almost fifty years experience will give you solid reliable advice
As a commercial floor layer of 18 years, you should have used a DPM on the floor first. (damp proof membrane). Normally in the form of a two pack epoxy resin. This will stop any rising damp that will occur. A warm room will pull up any residual moisture in the sub floor.
Just ran into this video. I’m in the middle of doing the exact same thing, except it’s a family room. That floor will match the existing floor. What size nails are you using? I saw where on dri core floor you had to put another layer of subfloor to use nailed flooring. Thanks
Some tile glue will also do the job regarding the crack and hole there was left. Simply use the same stuff as one uses in a bathroom for setting tiles..no problem.
Hi Ron , that's a nice looking wood floor in the sunroom , my twin sister who was diagnosed with MS said that she wishes she had an enclosed sunroom like this , but they can't really afford it , nice job Ron !!! 👍😊🛠❤
The only thing I question is why a sealing tape wasn’t used along the walls..moisture barrier like in a shower area. Concrete holds moisture and will transfer it to the walls ...sealing after concrete was poured defeated doing it later..everything else looks excellent.
You can use some self levelling products on wood subfloor, though it typically requires more prep work. Seams and any other holes need to be sealed with caulk so the product doesn't seep through them, barriers need to be put up to stop it from going where you don't want it to (into another room, for instance). You also need to prime the surface and use a metal mesh. The primer helps it adhere better to the wooden subfloor, and the metal mesh gives it added strength so it doesn't crack.
You can always call the company Custom Building Products with questions. They are very good at answering questions. Don’t trust Home Depot associates as they are usually clueless
Such a great video, that's clear, step by step and easy to watch, with so many fantastic tips! QUESTION - when laying the flooring you leave a bit of a gap for expansion. About what size is that gap? Thanks for the helpful video!
You want to leave about 5-6 mm all around the floor so it can expand and contract with moisture and temperatures. A nice finish with some wood trim is preferable alternatively PVC trim can be used.
Your using an "engineered" product, the floor pcs. will be straight and fairly impervious to dampness. Really good idea to allow the product to come into your home, per manufactures recommendations, to acclimate to your temp. Check instructions for time length. Keep a space against any solid structure to allow for expansion, READ THE DIRECTIONS. Couple of things I would hit you on, DO NOT face nail any flooring product other than the edges where your finishing molding, a.k.a. base board/toe strip will cover. 1/2" to 3/4" will be just fine. If you can see a fastener (nail, staple) when completed, you screwed up. Second, the cut end can start the next row, depending if it is at least 6" in length. This will reduce waste, provide staggered joints, and make the job quicker. Measure the height of the adjoining flooring to existing flooring where anything you want to add will join. Figure how much "height" you will need to reach this as level. This includes new leveling, subflooring, and finished flooring. ALWAYS READ the installation instructions, what you need to do for the product you are using. It will save you a ton of headaches, and give you a foot hold if something goes wrong, which does quite often. I know, I've been doing this for about 28 years now.
It all depends on the maintenance of the owner and the temp/ moisture change of the room throughout the year. As long as they don't let it get too cold and dry in the winter, then hot and humid in the summer, the floor will be fine.
Um, did you just screw up this whole project? By laying plastic down on the osb, Looks to me that you have just sandwiched wood between 2 vapor barriers. Since the osb has a vapor barrier on the bottom already. Adding plastic to the top ensures that you trap moisture between those 2 surfaces where the wood is. Or am I missing something?
Only a true OG does house renovations in business casual attire.
I thinking the same thing..lol
Hahaha that’s hilarious 😂
With no Knee Pads
Truly a Nice Project.
Hilarious 😂😂
ron hazelton, ron burgundy, and ron swanson. the ultimate dream team.
I have to say the windows in that room are beautiful. I love how you get a continuous look outside all the way around even at the corners, amazing.
this vid is a piece of gold.
1 problem, the title tells only about leveling the floor, but it actually does leveling, subflooring, putting a vapor barrier, and flooring.
so most people who need help for other things won't be able to search their way here, which is a pity.
Beautiful job and excellent construction work models! This makes me want to buy and wear a tuxedo the next time I do construction work! Great video!
I don't understand why Rons channel isn't huge yet! This guy's a legend!
The cleanest workers ever.....shoes polished, shirts clean and hair combed neatly. 😁
anthony smith
You must be into fashion.
Most dudes won’t pay attention to clothes, hair or shoes.
Just the work.
Those are some fancy duds, alright. And not a splash on them.
I was jealous how clean they were
@@sennentheodore35 I was appalled at how stupid they think we are. These ain't REAL diy videos.
No knee pads
Ron, thanks for the great video! I have the EXACT same project as yours, with the same issues...over concrete and not level and I've been scratching my head over how to do it...thanks again sir!
I did the same exact thing last year. I had a pitched slab old back porch that I converted to a sunroom. I used 9 bags of leveler to get the floor right. I used the dricore product but I went with the styrofoam one. More expensive but had a better R value. Instead of nailing down a floor over that I just floated a vinyl.
I used the Mapei leveler. They give you a range of water to use. Please use the maximum amount. I went with the minimum and it was hell. Lol.
Gotta be the smartest builder I've ever seen. Not a "builders bum" in sight!!!
Beautiful job! The self-leveling step was explained well enough that I think I can do my own slab floor which has a lot of uneven spots. The finished floor, wow, it looks fantastic. Thanks for the great video!
Neat and clean with very thorough explanations...good job, your floor looks great...just need to go 'ice skating' on it with some polywax...thats how we took care of our hardwood floors when i was younger and didnt realize too much of what was going on besides having fun with family...it was good to see the installation from start to finish...thanks
monsieur ron travail exeptionel beaucoup plus qu il n en faut .vous ete tellment professionel que vous travaillez comme une machine .mes felicitations .
I’ve been watching Ron Hazelton and Norm Abram since I was a kid very intelligent and smart I don’t know why he is not in the ask this old house until now I’m still watching them I’ve learn a lot from them now my work is all around maintenance and handyman to all properties that I work learn a lot off lessons from this guys thanks
Norm Abram is the man when it comes to woodwork period !
I need you to install my floors. Been struggling with a company for 3 weeks now. Thought I was gonna have my new floor before Christmas but it seems I wont. I'm about to do it by myself.
Watching from INDIA... very amazed!👌
So much for master craftsmanship Sir.👌👍👏👏
You might have been able to avoid the imperfections in the self leveling by using what is known as a smoother. Picture a 36" joint taping knife at the end of a broom handle which is lightly passed over the leveler at a 45 degree angle as you're pouring it out (don't wait till the end of the pour when you're out the room ; ) use 2 people, one to pour, one to smooth). This is fast, keeps you off your knees and avoids the extra work and material of patching!
Very true,bet you are a pro🙏🙏
Ron, you always make it look easy! It's entertaining to watch you work
Did you not have to re-frame the entry door with that much added height to the original floor?
Definitely would need planing down, unless it was done beforehand in preparation (I did this to mine knowing id have to add +5mm leveler and +5mm flooring) edit: sorry just realised this was a year ago 😂)
Great knees! Kneeling without knee pads is an achievement on itself.
That's what I said to my old lady.
Did you need to seal the gap between drywall and floor before pouring the self-leveling cement? Did you use tape?
You should. Some people use silicone or a small bit of expanding foam but there's a liner made for it that's quick to fit and just roll it and hit it with the staple hammer search self leveller liner you'll find it
I remember this guy I use to watch him on Sunday mornings.
I do believe that the subflooring is installed incorrectly, it should be fastened to the underlayment with special poly adhesive and concrete fastener.i use Aerosmith's concrete nailer at 140 psi. Works great and btw..I do have 30 plus years of wood flooring experience.
Do you a video to demonstrate the correct way Jack Dandridge?
And are you even 30 year’s old 🤣
@@ForrestGumpWR very funny. I wish I was 30 years old.listen guys , I have my way, you have yours, and Ron has several .I do not make videos I just watch them when I'm bored. There are hundreds of guys that have videos of installing floors and some of them are amazing. If you want to have a floor installed on a subfloor that is not secured, go for it. I hope it works great and last for decades but I seriously doubt it . In my opinion, subfloors need to be secured,fastened, screwed, or stuck to what your building on for many reasons. ,and I feel like people should consider adding 2 steps to the video (glue &nails on subflooring) if attempting a install based on this video or you could end up having separation, gaps, ☆moisture, and even squeaky floors.
This is a 20 year rated floor who cares about quality? It's a motel style POS job.
@CB BC the subfloor has built in vapor barrier on the back of it already, which makes me wonder why he sandwiched the subfloor with another vapor barrier on top of the subfloor.
Where on earth did you get that awesome mop? It reminds me of when I was a kid when my Mom gave me that permanent job and my hands were too small to wring it out. 🙃
I used Bruce flooring like that shown Silly me I did not know that you can NEVER get it wet. I mopped it and the finish peeled up on the edges !! It was a disaster!!
Was I supposed to coat it with Urethane??? Waterproof Vinyl for me from now on !!
Came here on how to level a floor. Learned how to lay an oak floor instead. Thanks! Will use this in my new home :-)
I would secure the subflooring to the underlayment if I were you.32 years experience.
Thanks for the incredible How-To video!
I just want to know what you recorded on. Saw the 480p quality of the video and thought this was put into UA-cam back in '09.
What Paul Jackson said about the double vapor barrier. It creates a mold trap.
What good is a moisture barrier when you drive two thousand nails through?
What good does 2000 nails do when the subflooring is not secured with glue ,nails, nothing.
@@jackdandridge8161 Well to be fair it does stiffen up the entire structure. Everything is staggered and there's thousands of binding points.
I think this would be okay in my opinion. But I'm also admittedly not a flooring expert.
@@Clenched.Cheeks you make good points and it makes sense. Honestly ,the problem I have with it is the bouncing that will happen at some point,even with the small tongue and groove sub floor. Eventually it will damage the underlayment and without glue there will be moisture and then subfloor movement and eventually seperation of the flooring. All long term problems,I'm sure he was happy with it.. Again,this may work in some places not in texas .
So why would you put plastic sheathing above the underlayment wood? I thought the plastic cupped grid on the underlayment was the vapor barrier? I agree it could protect your floor, but won't this create the possibility of more mold instead of less? Wouldn't a seal on the leveling concrete be a better idea?
Yup. I think it is a major mistake, double moisture barriers can make moisture in between the 2 , trapping the moisture.
Catherine you are right on. Unlike handy man ron I am a real wood floor installer and refinisher with over 50 years experience and a former instructor. Never completely seal off a wood substrate like this The vinyl barrier goes BETWEEN the cement floor and subfloor NOTon top of the subfloor. The spaces between the subfloor squares will allow moisture to penetrate the subfloor and start it to buckle and or grow mold.. Next you NEVER start a room that is by it's self off a wall. The correct way is to find the center of the room and put the two grooves back to back with what is called a spline. inserted between them. Then one side of that tongue Is nailed and the other board with a grove is installed back to the first board with the spline inserted in it. Basically it is a two sided tongue .Now you have a tongue going toward both walls. If you start along one wall and it is not parallel to the other you will end up with a very noticeable strip narrow on one end and wide on the other end. Sanding and installing floors is an art not just a trade and you would be amazed at how many floors I have had to go behind so called handy man guys and repair or redo. Get in touch with the National Wood Floor Association and watch some of their videos on how to install a wood floor the right way and avoid costly mistakes. Hope this clarifies some things and helps you.
@@captain757747 Thank you!
I am a floorlayer in Gods own county of Yorkshire ,England. I screed floors to put a variety of floorcovering down. There is a confusion between leveling and smoothing a floor. In my country especially in the north the houses are sometimes hundreds of years old so if we leveled a floor in a kitchen for instance the back door would have to be shuttered and there would only be 3foot of doorway left to get through lol. Obviously im exaggerating but the point is if you're puttind a floorcovering down over tge screed then the screed only needs to smooth the floor not level it.
Shaun Dempsy let me loose with me spiked roller
I love a spiked roller but you get to Hebden Bridge and the screed is flowing out the door, the hills are that bad lol
it's guaranty for two decades you say
Thank you sir for empowered
Have a nice and safe day
Buen trabajo amigo saludos desde Dallas tx.
I thought the work is Done halfway to this video I was worried..then came the blue vinyl film...another half to Go..
Love
I remember that product having the name of "natural reflections" when ever we had to do a glue down application especially, we called it "natural rejection" because of the amount of banana boards and the need to strap the floor as we went along to keep it tight. With enough power, and will to fight the floor would tighten up nice and the milling was good, culling was a must and the finish was top notch even back then. Long bananas okay, short bananas go away.
won't the staple going through the vapour barrier compromise it.
A awesome idea 💡👏😀and a great 👍look.
🤔👍✌wonder how it would work preexisting concrete then do radiant heat tubes in between slabs would it work
With some self leveling materials you can absolutely use heat tubes, it works very well. Just make sure you add enough material over the top of the tube - the manufacturer gives you the recommended thickness
I'm looking for a product to put down on a garage floor where the concrete is very bumpy and irregular. It is not smooth or looks like it was even troweled or floated. Is there anything in the market than can cover a thickness of less than 1/4 inches AND hold up to a vehicle?
He is a legend and true gentleman.
Clean hands clean clothes perfect shine on his Sunday's best shoes and all with no hair out of place. I was to distracted to know or care what the video was about.
Dirt,Grime , you name it, they avoid Ron out of Respect.Man never gets Dirty❤❤
Ron. My man. This is Alex. You installed frame-posts in a couple of garages. One back in 20 years ago in my little garage and next time in Hanson Auto in S.L.C, Utah.. do you remember me.. it’s been a while. How have you been.?
So calm and professional. Loved watching this video over random crypto news.
What I've learned from this comment section. No double vapor barrier. Beware of "self levelling" compound, doesn't self level. I have a question. Can you put sleepers over uneven tile, in mastic, and then nail pine boards to them? I live in the woods, in area that gets a lot of rain.
If you use a spiked roller, and spiked shoes, it will level beautifully.
@@dominicjoslin5431 sounds like very specialized gear...
Nechtan Mac Collbran Yes, it would come under the heading of specialised gear, but then self-levelling product is specialised. I actually made my own spiked roller, and then found out that they were not so expensive to buy new. Ha! But I will never use self leveller again without a spiked roller at hand. The difference is massive.
Whats the name of the products you used to level the floor and can it be used on a basement floor
What's the stuff you used to fill the crack?
Wow beautiful looks great nice work 👍
why use a bit of timber to smash up the tongue or groove edge? You use a off cut to slot in and hit that. This then stops any distortion of the T&G edges
Bro I’m 26 and tired just watching this 🤣 much respect to this dude. I’m thinking about leveling my concrete bedroom floor...might leave it now 🤣
THE ONLY ONE AD THAT I COULD NOT SKIP IN U TUBE . THE PRESENTATION OF THAT SMALL GIRL ABOUT HER DAD .
I have a question I am about to use high end vinyl floor planking on a concrete slab the room is like couple feet below grade. Now existing are 9x9 anyway some are missing what would be best way to even floor.
#1 rule, self levelling cement does not self level!!! Dont ever pour and walk away. If you checked this floor with a 8 foot straightedge, its guaranteed not flat or level.
You need to use a spiked roller, and wear spiked shoes, and walk on the wet cement and move it around with a trowel and the spiked roller in order to get a flat floor.
To get a level floor, you need to chalk line a 2x2 foot grid on the cement, and use a laser to measure down to the intersecting points on the grid, and record the differences in heights. Then you can cut 2x2 fir shims at the heights and glue them down with pl premium. Now you can pour to the tops of the 2x2 fir and know that you have a perfectly level floor. The wood can be chipped out later or left in.
how can u tell if a floor is stable enough for self leveling compound? I'm not sure if my slab is still moving or not... it's cheaper than ripping out the slab and repouring it but I'd rather do that knowing it was done right than having the self leveling stuff fail after a certain number of years.....?
@@enkrypt3d If your slab is cracking from ground movement there is no product in the known universe that will not crack. There are so many variables that cause cracks in slab without mother nature being the culprit. Then there is the unstable ground factor, so you need to figure out what's going on. Bad concrete psi from dishonesty is common, how many people have a core density test preformed to check proper psi when having a home built.
Just like all DIY shows, skipping all the real work and deceiving the public.
Do a video!
@@enkrypt3d concrete always moves always as far as telling if it was done right is all but impossible if its not cracked up then its probably okay if it has many cracks you have problems. If you need or want more help I would be happy to give you some advice. I am a retired General contractor of almost fifty years experience will give you solid reliable advice
Lol that was the same ting I was thinking..but it was a great job I have to say..very good.
Great job👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼❤️❤️❤️🌷🌷🌷🌹I love the finish.
so nice and beautiful when it's done😍😍😍
Great video Mr. Hazleton. Thanks for sharing.
Why not install vapor barrier next above the pre-leveled concrete floor and under the subfloor?
Great job!
Ok what u do bout the nails u put in on ur first row u could still see them
Wait a min! Makita had a cordless miter that long ago???
As a commercial floor layer of 18 years, you should have used a DPM on the floor first. (damp proof membrane). Normally in the form of a two pack epoxy resin. This will stop any rising damp that will occur. A warm room will pull up any residual moisture in the sub floor.
This is why a job done right is so darn expensive, very clean and meticulously done, check his khaki pants, no dirt at all.
S brown totally agree with you
Can I do that over a wooden flooring?
"Non-labor-intensive" besides of course the mixing, hauling and pouring.
just finished 200 sqft by myself. its really not bad.
Just ran into this video. I’m in the middle of doing the exact same thing, except it’s a family room. That floor will match the existing floor. What size nails are you using? I saw where on dri core floor you had to put another layer of subfloor to use nailed flooring. Thanks
Some tile glue will also do the job regarding the crack and hole there was left. Simply use the same stuff as one uses in a bathroom for setting tiles..no problem.
You are as good as a young man
What did you use to dam up the perimiter of the room before pouring the self leveler??
What is the mix called that helped seal and even the floor? Thank you
Sika bonding agent
What kind the material did you use to make a level
Only Ron can rebuild a House in dress slacks and penny loafers!!😏👍
Hi Ron , that's a nice looking wood floor in the sunroom , my twin sister who was diagnosed with MS said that she wishes she had an enclosed sunroom like this , but they can't really afford it , nice job Ron !!! 👍😊🛠❤
The only thing I question is why a sealing tape wasn’t used along the walls..moisture barrier like in a shower area. Concrete holds moisture and will transfer it to the walls ...sealing after concrete was poured defeated doing it later..everything else looks excellent.
This is the best tongue and groove installation tutorial video I have seen to date. Thank you!
Unbelievable! Absolute bodge job, Jack of all trades Master of none springs to mind! 🤪🤪
When you nail into the wood, does it comprimise the vapor barrier? Also how do you do that on your knees without knee pads!;)
this is why he should have put the vapor barrier on the bottom just above the concrete.
Ron is dressed so clean and does the dirty work with out getting a smudge on em
the video should be titled "getting your sucker friends to do the dirty work and you waste an afternoon laying down a krappy floor in your old porch".
With the level quick product, can we use it on the existing wood floor on second floor in house with a floor that is two inches out of level?
You can use some self levelling products on wood subfloor, though it typically requires more prep work. Seams and any other holes need to be sealed with caulk so the product doesn't seep through them, barriers need to be put up to stop it from going where you don't want it to (into another room, for instance). You also need to prime the surface and use a metal mesh. The primer helps it adhere better to the wooden subfloor, and the metal mesh gives it added strength so it doesn't crack.
You can always call the company Custom Building Products with questions. They are very good at answering questions. Don’t trust Home Depot associates as they are usually clueless
Can this be used outdoors?
Puts down "vapor barrier" then puts 2,000 holes in it. 🤣
When u level a floor what should be the height of it?
Such a great video, that's clear, step by step and easy to watch, with so many fantastic tips!
QUESTION - when laying the flooring you leave a bit of a gap for expansion. About what size is that gap?
Thanks for the helpful video!
The56Kaveman 3/8 is typical
You can buy spacers for this at pretty much any hardware store.
You want to leave about 5-6 mm all around the floor so it can expand and contract with moisture and temperatures. A nice finish with some wood trim is preferable alternatively PVC trim can be used.
1/4 is fine
What's the name of materials?
Your using an "engineered" product, the floor pcs. will be straight and fairly impervious to dampness. Really good idea to allow the product to come into your home, per manufactures recommendations, to acclimate to your temp. Check instructions for time length.
Keep a space against any solid structure to allow for expansion, READ THE DIRECTIONS. Couple of things I would hit you on, DO NOT face nail any flooring product other than the edges where your finishing molding, a.k.a. base board/toe strip will cover. 1/2" to 3/4" will be just fine. If you can see a fastener (nail, staple) when completed, you screwed up.
Second, the cut end can start the next row, depending if it is at least 6" in length. This will reduce waste, provide staggered joints, and make the job quicker.
Measure the height of the adjoining flooring to existing flooring where anything you want to add will join. Figure how much "height" you will need to reach this as level. This includes new leveling, subflooring, and finished flooring.
ALWAYS READ the installation instructions, what you need to do for the product you are using. It will save you a ton of headaches, and give you a foot hold if something goes wrong, which does quite often. I know, I've been doing this for about 28 years now.
So whats the name of the blue sheet called?
That is beautiful
What self leveling product name did you use
Will Ron it's been almost two decades since you filmed this episode give us an update on how well that finish really lasted.
It all depends on the maintenance of the owner and the temp/ moisture change of the room throughout the year. As long as they don't let it get too cold and dry in the winter, then hot and humid in the summer, the floor will be fine.
Not sure about sealing chipboard under polythene I would have thought any damp from the slab is going to damage the chipboard
Love it when they wear smart chinos and shoes to do these demonstrations.
عمل رائع بدون غراء او لواصق ..
Isn't there some additive you can use in that self leveling mixture to keep it from drying so fast?
Latex
Excelente explication
Made it look so dang easy!
Did you prime the wall or drywall??
Um, did you just screw up this whole project? By laying plastic down on the osb, Looks to me that you have just sandwiched wood between 2 vapor barriers. Since the osb has a vapor barrier on the bottom already. Adding plastic to the top ensures that you trap moisture between those 2 surfaces where the wood is. Or am I missing something?
Was that the trousers that you poured the cement?
Ron, how do you make everything look so easy???
did you not notice? others are doing the actual work...sheeesh
video editing. Shortens a few days of work down to 10 minutes.