Hello. HVAC technician here. I have also used (Marine Weld - JB WELD) on automotive condenser. It really works. Only downside is that you need 24 HR for it to cure. Just sand paper and clean before applying then send the the Siysem into a slite vacuum after applying the weld. I hope this is useful to someone out there. God bless.
@@BetterMechanicalI’ve been using stay-brite 8 for two years now, there are no copper oxides (soot) formed on the copper because the temperature is far lower than using sil-phos and brazing. No need to flow nitrogen when silver soldering, the silver solder has better resistance to vibration cracking, and the joints are stronger than brazing - stay brite has a tensile strength of 14,000 psi compared to 86,000 psi for sil-phos, BUT you aren’t annealing your joints or fittings with soldering temps. The biggest problem I had switching over is that at first I was overheating the joints because I was used to brazing, oxy-gas rigs are waaay too hot for silver solder, get yourself a decent propane torch, clean your joints well, flux thoroughly, get in with the torch quickly, flow the solder, done. Once you try it and get used to it you’ll never go back to brazing.
I don't know where to get StayBrite, but I got a mini split that needs a new compressor and I really want to use flare fittings, but the compressor doesn't have enough length on their inputs and outputs to let me use flares, so I'm using soft solder of some kind... I can't braze because right now I don't have a torch hot enough to do the job.
@@balint133 Even if I could get the joint hot enough there's the problem of having to nitrogen purge, and I don't have any inert gas to do it. I did get some solder that has higher melting point than normal solder (I'm guessing it's lead free solder or stay bright 8 type solder) and I'm probably going to solder a length of pipe then flare fit it.
I don’t think fear is always the holdback, I’ve been in this trade 27 years and would in a heartbeat go torchless if I could, especially for certain jobs, but what is prohibitive is the cost of equipment and fittings. Then I see a lot of times you have to braze the fitting in so that you can use the torchless fittings. Another thing is inexperienced installers screwing it up, a few times now I’ve had to remove poorly installed crimped fittings that are leaking, is it the fittings fault, no I believe it was poorly installed. I’m excited for the future as costs drop, these items can be a huge time saver, even if until a part can be replaced.
@@HVACKnowItAll very true, anyone that shuts down learning is not a good tech, we learn all the time and streamline our processes. I’m a tool nut, any tool that makes my job easier I want(but can’t always afford 😆) fear is a good way to become stuck in a rut.
I have to replace my compressor. What about that initial connection into the compressor? Is there any alternative to fit in there without brazing? It seems everything is only for leaks or something that is already installed.
No push fitrings where the line gets hot. UA-cam showed me one that failed and the guy said he thinks it was too close to the compressor on the high side (too much heat).
Glad to hear Jobber is working out really well for you! I do have to say if you plan on growing your business to have a large amount of employees, Service Titan is pretty amazing. Wouldn’t make sense for you at this time though. Great content as always, thank you for your continued contributions to the trade!
I love RLS, but they must come down on the pricing before the industry accepts it as a standard. Between the press, jaws, and decent fitting inventory...you're looking at $4-5k.
StayBrite 8 has been around forever and it works great for new installations. I used it when I installed my own new HVAC equipment two years ago. Zero leaks so far.
Quick fix hack jobs imo. Take all the required safety precautions and use the skills and procedures we’ve been taught…. We charge or get paid by the hour, so why cut corners?
RLS is not quick hack stuff by any means. I just explained that some places don't allow fire or make it hard to, this is why we need alternative solutions.
@@hvacworkshop4791 most examples were commercial. In a commercial setting shutting down the equipment is a bigger loss then using these quick fixes. Often times it's way cheaper to have it patched up every year or so rather than shutting the whole thing down for a day or two. Getting a tech out is measured in thousands of $$ while shutting the plant down for a day measured in 100's of thousands. That being said, I don't think these are good choices for a residential system though
You missed Highside Chemicals "Just For Copper" its basically a copper glue. and has its place like each method you discussed, Just like Staybright 8 solder over brazing
Stay-Brite 8 is the best way to join clean copper acr and clean copper tubing. Filter-dryers, txv's, and you name it.
Hello. HVAC technician here. I have also used (Marine Weld - JB WELD) on automotive condenser. It really works. Only downside is that you need 24 HR for it to cure. Just sand paper and clean before applying then send the the Siysem into a slite vacuum after applying the weld. I hope this is useful to someone out there. God bless.
Sounds like it might work on my vehicle and save me from replacing the whole system.
There is also now the StayBrite-8 silver soldering system...works just fine, but it does require a torch.
would there still be oxidizing inside?
@@BetterMechanicalI don't use it personally,but I don't believe so since it flows at a lot lower temp than brazing
@@BetterMechanicalI’ve been using stay-brite 8 for two years now, there are no copper oxides (soot) formed on the copper because the temperature is far lower than using sil-phos and brazing. No need to flow nitrogen when silver soldering, the silver solder has better resistance to vibration cracking, and the joints are stronger than brazing - stay brite has a tensile strength of 14,000 psi compared to 86,000 psi for sil-phos, BUT you aren’t annealing your joints or fittings with soldering temps.
The biggest problem I had switching over is that at first I was overheating the joints because I was used to brazing, oxy-gas rigs are waaay too hot for silver solder, get yourself a decent propane torch, clean your joints well, flux thoroughly, get in with the torch quickly, flow the solder, done.
Once you try it and get used to it you’ll never go back to brazing.
Always nice to have options and different tools for getting out of jams.
Certainly
The best alternative I've used so far for brazing-rarely do I braze anymore- is StayBrite 8. It's solder
Me too. I learned it from The DIY HVAC Guy channel.
I don't know where to get StayBrite, but I got a mini split that needs a new compressor and I really want to use flare fittings, but the compressor doesn't have enough length on their inputs and outputs to let me use flares, so I'm using soft solder of some kind... I can't braze because right now I don't have a torch hot enough to do the job.
@@taiwanluthiers dont, it will fail due to vibration. Always braze the compressor fittings
@@balint133 Even if I could get the joint hot enough there's the problem of having to nitrogen purge, and I don't have any inert gas to do it. I did get some solder that has higher melting point than normal solder (I'm guessing it's lead free solder or stay bright 8 type solder) and I'm probably going to solder a length of pipe then flare fit it.
Do you use a soldering iron to melt or a torch?
JB weld it !!!.... lol. I have seen a couple who did that. I assumed it would work, but like everything else, it needs a good prep.
It's always good to know you options
I don’t think fear is always the holdback, I’ve been in this trade 27 years and would in a heartbeat go torchless if I could, especially for certain jobs, but what is prohibitive is the cost of equipment and fittings. Then I see a lot of times you have to braze the fitting in so that you can use the torchless fittings. Another thing is inexperienced installers screwing it up, a few times now I’ve had to remove poorly installed crimped fittings that are leaking, is it the fittings fault, no I believe it was poorly installed. I’m excited for the future as costs drop, these items can be a huge time saver, even if until a part can be replaced.
Not always but fear of the unknown is normal in human beings.
@@HVACKnowItAll very true, anyone that shuts down learning is not a good tech, we learn all the time and streamline our processes. I’m a tool nut, any tool that makes my job easier I want(but can’t always afford 😆) fear is a good way to become stuck in a rut.
They could be nice use in crowded spaces. Even if you have to braze on some pipe first.
How about Stay Bright 8?
I have to replace my compressor. What about that initial connection into the compressor? Is there any alternative to fit in there without brazing? It seems everything is only for leaks or something that is already installed.
No push fitrings where the line gets hot. UA-cam showed me one that failed and the guy said he thinks it was too close to the compressor on the high side (too much heat).
What are your thoughts on silver bearing solder/soldering? Just heard about it and am unsure
Glad to hear Jobber is working out really well for you!
I do have to say if you plan on growing your business to have a large amount of employees, Service Titan is pretty amazing. Wouldn’t make sense for you at this time though.
Great content as always, thank you for your continued contributions to the trade!
service titan is meant to manage a whole service dept and get them on the same page not one man lmao
We can't use such, talking about the 2nd one on bigger cooling equipment like 85kw unit. Liebert Emerson
I love RLS, but they must come down on the pricing before the industry accepts it as a standard. Between the press, jaws, and decent fitting inventory...you're looking at $4-5k.
Press in plumbing is priced the same way. That's been accepted for years
How do you feel about stay brite 8 with mao gas? For AC lines
I've only used SolderWeld SilSol 56 it's coated 56% silver. Works great!
StayBrite 8 has been around forever and it works great for new installations. I used it when I installed my own new HVAC equipment two years ago. Zero leaks so far.
A properly made up flare will out last the system and (because) they don't rely on gaskets to make a seal.
Great video tech
Thanks sir!
The only issue with these fittings is the test of time. Nobody knows with certainty how the seals will hold up over the long haul.
On in heat. Or outdoors with freezing, etc.
👍
Quick fix hack jobs imo. Take all the required safety precautions and use the skills and procedures we’ve been taught…. We charge or get paid by the hour, so why cut corners?
RLS is not quick hack stuff by any means. I just explained that some places don't allow fire or make it hard to, this is why we need alternative solutions.
I saw these are expensive
@@hvacworkshop4791 most examples were commercial. In a commercial setting shutting down the equipment is a bigger loss then using these quick fixes. Often times it's way cheaper to have it patched up every year or so rather than shutting the whole thing down for a day or two. Getting a tech out is measured in thousands of $$ while shutting the plant down for a day measured in 100's of thousands. That being said, I don't think these are good choices for a residential system though
You missed Highside Chemicals "Just For Copper" its basically a copper glue. and has its place like each method you discussed, Just like Staybright 8 solder over brazing