I bought the same model 1990 Suzuki Swift GT in the USA. It was a quick, and fun car. It was also reliable and only maintenance issues were the battery and muffler every three years. Awesome little car.
Hi! I'm from Uruguay! I'm thinking to buy one of this, but I'm not sure yet. The car that is on sale has 230.000 kilometers, how much has your car? any tips to see before buy in it?
Hi! Mine has 227200 kms at the moment. I have had it for 4 years and 28000 kms. List of faults: - left CV-joint replacement (198700 km) - alternator brush repl. (201000 km) - rear engine mount repl. (203400 km, it wasn't perfect anymore) - gearbox repair: #2 synchro ring, throw out bearing, clutch disc, 4x CV-boots (203500 km) - chassis rust repair: rear of the sills, front left longitudinal member, rear corner of the front wheel arches, front right wheel well under the air filter housing, rear corner of the rear wheel arches, lower corners of rear end panel (206500 km) - engine disassembly due to oil leakage: engine block cleaned, new pistons and rings (not necessary), con. rod bearing replacement (not bad, but worth replacing), timing belt and tensioner repl., clutch pressure plate assy repl., gaskets (valve cover, cylinder head, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, oil pump), oil seals (2x crankshaft, 2x camshafts, 1x distributor), water pump repl., thermostat repl., fuel filter repl., spark plug repl., (engine oil, gear oil and antifreeze repl.) (217400 km) - front shock absorbers repl. (226300 km) - combination switch repl. (aka light switch stalk, headlights weren't turning off, 226500 km) - all hydraulic lifters disassembly, cleaning, reassy (one lifter was knocking, 227000 km) - chassis rust repair: front of the sills around the jacking points, rear of the wheel wells, front right longitudinal member (227150 km) Regular maintenance: Engine oil and filter change: 8-10000 km, 5W-40 A3/B3/4 Gearbox oil change: 20-30000 km, 75W-90 Air filter change: 10000 km Antifreeze change: 20000 km, or 3 years Brake fluid change: 3-4 years, DOT 5.1 Misc.: alternator belt repl., windshield repl., new tyres, paintjob and polish, oil pan repaint and reseal, front strut brace install (highly recommended), oil temp gauge install (also recommended) Buying tips: - LOOK FOR RUST: the area where the front susp. arms connect to the chassis and the tie rod goes through a hole next to it (if there are rusted out spots here larger than ~3x3 cms, leave the car), also the front strut towers, front of the floor panel (basically under your feet), rear of the front wheel wells, along the sills under the splash guards, front jacking points, front and center longitudinal members, rear suspension arm connection points. - Engine: check compression: factory standard is 14,5 bar, limit is 11 bar, max diff. 1 bar. MK1-2 models had hollow camshafts, which may break, MK3s had solids. The engine is long lasting if 0W-30 to 5W-40 oil was used and changed at max. 10000 kms. Check the water temp gauge when driving, with the 82°C thermostat, it sits between 1/3 and 1/2, but shouldn't go over 2/3 even in stop and go traffic in 35°C. There's an 88°C thermostat, but I wouldn't use it in a hotter climate. Check the hydraulic lifters for knocking at idle when the engine oil is hot. If they knock, you can try to change the engine oil first, warm up the car, drive it over 5-6000 rpm for ~10 kms. If it doesn't help, you have two options. If the lifters aren't worn, you can clean them. According to the factory service manual, lifters shouldn't be disassembled, but you can, if you are careful. It's not an easy job to disassemble, clean, reassemble, there are a lot of small parts, and the possibility of failure. On the other hand, brand new lifters are expensive, but you have to buy them, if they're worn. Camshaft bearings in the cylinder head are not replaceable, if incorrect oil was used, or wasn't changed at the correct interval, camshaft bearings will wear out, clearances will be too high, oiling will be inadequate, the complete cylinder head needs replacement. Rest of the engine is relatively easy and cheap to rebuild. Although, it should be avoided, if the engine has serious rod or main bearing failure, since the crankshaft journals are probably worn, and it's nearly impossible to grind them back to concentric. Apart from that, the forged crankshaft is a tough piece, and the stock forged conrods are also very sturdy, and can take a lot of additional power. TIMING BELT AND TENSIONER REPLACEMENT every 60000 kms is recommended since it's an interference engine. Check the air intake hose for cracks (the tube between the air flow sensor and the throttle body), it's prone to break, expensive, and usually only official Suzuki dealers sell them. The ECU and the electronic fuel management system with all the valves and sensors can cause numerous problems: incorrect slow and fast idle, poor, or non-existent throttle response, hesitating engine, stalling, etc. It's recommended to run a check engine light diagnostic check through the grounded diag. switch. Read the factory service manual for further info. BTW HIGH IDLE (2-3000 rpm) when COLD, and IDLE FLUCTUATION when COASTING in neutral are NORMAL. (High cold idle can be lowered though with a restrictor between the air valve and the intake mainfold.) - Gearbox: #2 SYNCHRONIZER RING WEAR is a problem on every single car, changing it is labour intensive, and you need a bearing puller and a hydraulic press as well. - Electrical system: the combination switch of the MK2 GTi (light and indicator switch stalk) can cause a lot of problems (can't switch off headlights, only one headlight is on, only high beam works, indicators doesn't work, etc.). It's recommended to buy a spare combination switch, because it will fail. Changing alternator brushes in advance is recommended at over 200000 kms. It's generally advantageous to have a stock, original, OEM car. Keep in mind, that they are 25-33-year-old cars, so rust and leaking gaskets are common. Apart from that, they are reliable, but you have to maintain them regularly, which takes a lot of time, but it's cheap. I don't know about the situation in Uruguay, but getting GTi specific parts in Hungary is an issue. I would say, if you like small, light, simple cars with angry engines, and the condition is good, go for it!
@@rotaryhungary Fantastic information mate..! and very correct..1994 gti...Mine has done just below 570000 Kms..its over half a million old!!haha..not by me btw..it did have a rebuild..at least the top end about 100 000 ago.. so I was told when I bought it. I have had to do a fair bit of fixing on the engine.oil leaks etc..now its about making it better..body is sweet (from Australia so minimal rust)..I have a doner Cino.. My old car... which has been great with things like the combination switch for a start..they are expensive.... lifter noise can get bad...goes away after an oil change...but the oil changes are getting closer and closer together so will have to be done sooon. I use it to get to work every day through country roads and its so bloody fun!! I love my GTI.
I have a suzuki swift gt. it's a small pocket missile
greetings from Argentina
I bought the same model 1990 Suzuki Swift GT in the USA. It was a quick, and fun car. It was also reliable and only maintenance issues were the battery and muffler every three years. Awesome little car.
My right ear approves.
Ja ez az autó egy igazi legenda
Superb
Imàdom a GTI suzukikat majd pls csinàlsz róla képekből àlló videót is ?!? Pls !
Nice
niceee
a legenda... =)
Adom!
Yes
where is this place? The scenery is beautiful and pleasant
Zirc - Szépalma route in Hungary.
i know about hungary , it's beatful
Home sweet home XD
For sale your suzuki swift gti??
Hi! I'm from Uruguay! I'm thinking to buy one of this, but I'm not sure yet. The car that is on sale has 230.000 kilometers, how much has your car? any tips to see before buy in it?
Hi!
Mine has 227200 kms at the moment. I have had it for 4 years and 28000 kms.
List of faults:
- left CV-joint replacement (198700 km)
- alternator brush repl. (201000 km)
- rear engine mount repl. (203400 km, it wasn't perfect anymore)
- gearbox repair: #2 synchro ring, throw out bearing, clutch disc, 4x CV-boots (203500 km)
- chassis rust repair: rear of the sills, front left longitudinal member, rear corner of the front wheel arches, front right wheel well under the air filter housing, rear corner of the rear wheel arches, lower corners of rear end panel (206500 km)
- engine disassembly due to oil leakage: engine block cleaned, new pistons and rings (not necessary), con. rod bearing replacement (not bad, but worth replacing), timing belt and tensioner repl., clutch pressure plate assy repl., gaskets (valve cover, cylinder head, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, oil pump), oil seals (2x crankshaft, 2x camshafts, 1x distributor), water pump repl., thermostat repl., fuel filter repl., spark plug repl., (engine oil, gear oil and antifreeze repl.) (217400 km)
- front shock absorbers repl. (226300 km)
- combination switch repl. (aka light switch stalk, headlights weren't turning off, 226500 km)
- all hydraulic lifters disassembly, cleaning, reassy (one lifter was knocking, 227000 km)
- chassis rust repair: front of the sills around the jacking points, rear of the wheel wells, front right longitudinal member (227150 km)
Regular maintenance:
Engine oil and filter change: 8-10000 km, 5W-40 A3/B3/4
Gearbox oil change: 20-30000 km, 75W-90
Air filter change: 10000 km
Antifreeze change: 20000 km, or 3 years
Brake fluid change: 3-4 years, DOT 5.1
Misc.: alternator belt repl., windshield repl., new tyres, paintjob and polish, oil pan repaint and reseal, front strut brace install (highly recommended), oil temp gauge install (also recommended)
Buying tips:
- LOOK FOR RUST: the area where the front susp. arms connect to the chassis and the tie rod goes through a hole next to it (if there are rusted out spots here larger than ~3x3 cms, leave the car), also the front strut towers, front of the floor panel (basically under your feet), rear of the front wheel wells, along the sills under the splash guards, front jacking points, front and center longitudinal members, rear suspension arm connection points.
- Engine: check compression: factory standard is 14,5 bar, limit is 11 bar, max diff. 1 bar. MK1-2 models had hollow camshafts, which may break, MK3s had solids. The engine is long lasting if 0W-30 to 5W-40 oil was used and changed at max. 10000 kms.
Check the water temp gauge when driving, with the 82°C thermostat, it sits between 1/3 and 1/2, but shouldn't go over 2/3 even in stop and go traffic in 35°C. There's an 88°C thermostat, but I wouldn't use it in a hotter climate.
Check the hydraulic lifters for knocking at idle when the engine oil is hot. If they knock, you can try to change the engine oil first, warm up the car, drive it over 5-6000 rpm for ~10 kms. If it doesn't help, you have two options. If the lifters aren't worn, you can clean them. According to the factory service manual, lifters shouldn't be disassembled, but you can, if you are careful. It's not an easy job to disassemble, clean, reassemble, there are a lot of small parts, and the possibility of failure. On the other hand, brand new lifters are expensive, but you have to buy them, if they're worn.
Camshaft bearings in the cylinder head are not replaceable, if incorrect oil was used, or wasn't changed at the correct interval, camshaft bearings will wear out, clearances will be too high, oiling will be inadequate, the complete cylinder head needs replacement.
Rest of the engine is relatively easy and cheap to rebuild. Although, it should be avoided, if the engine has serious rod or main bearing failure, since the crankshaft journals are probably worn, and it's nearly impossible to grind them back to concentric. Apart from that, the forged crankshaft is a tough piece, and the stock forged conrods are also very sturdy, and can take a lot of additional power.
TIMING BELT AND TENSIONER REPLACEMENT every 60000 kms is recommended since it's an interference engine.
Check the air intake hose for cracks (the tube between the air flow sensor and the throttle body), it's prone to break, expensive, and usually only official Suzuki dealers sell them.
The ECU and the electronic fuel management system with all the valves and sensors can cause numerous problems: incorrect slow and fast idle, poor, or non-existent throttle response, hesitating engine, stalling, etc. It's recommended to run a check engine light diagnostic check through the grounded diag. switch. Read the factory service manual for further info. BTW HIGH IDLE (2-3000 rpm) when COLD, and IDLE FLUCTUATION when COASTING in neutral are NORMAL. (High cold idle can be lowered though with a restrictor between the air valve and the intake mainfold.)
- Gearbox: #2 SYNCHRONIZER RING WEAR is a problem on every single car, changing it is labour intensive, and you need a bearing puller and a hydraulic press as well.
- Electrical system: the combination switch of the MK2 GTi (light and indicator switch stalk) can cause a lot of problems (can't switch off headlights, only one headlight is on, only high beam works, indicators doesn't work, etc.). It's recommended to buy a spare combination switch, because it will fail. Changing alternator brushes in advance is recommended at over 200000 kms.
It's generally advantageous to have a stock, original, OEM car.
Keep in mind, that they are 25-33-year-old cars, so rust and leaking gaskets are common. Apart from that, they are reliable, but you have to maintain them regularly, which takes a lot of time, but it's cheap. I don't know about the situation in Uruguay, but getting GTi specific parts in Hungary is an issue.
I would say, if you like small, light, simple cars with angry engines, and the condition is good, go for it!
@@rotaryhungary Fantastic information mate..! and very correct..1994 gti...Mine has done just below 570000 Kms..its over half a million old!!haha..not by me btw..it did have a rebuild..at least the top end about 100 000 ago.. so I was told when I bought it. I have had to do a fair bit of fixing on the engine.oil leaks etc..now its about making it better..body is sweet (from Australia so minimal rust)..I have a doner Cino.. My old car... which has been great with things like the combination switch for a start..they are expensive....
lifter noise can get bad...goes away after an oil change...but the oil changes are getting closer and closer together so will have to be done sooon.
I use it to get to work every day through country roads and its so bloody fun!! I love my GTI.
Stock 100hp?
Yes
@@rotaryhungary damn nice
TURBO?
no
It was japan only model I guess bcz dash us different
No
This is the early model dash, they changed to a round dash later
Esetleg nem eladó ?
Egyelőre alapvetően nem, de van olyan ár, amiért igen.
És mi az az àr ?
@@deak79gabor Privátban megírom, írj címet.