Welcome Stephen both to WatchArtSci and this wonderful and crazy hobby our ours. We also have a FB page, 'High Horology Lounge' if you're interested. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Good choices, Bill. I always add Alexander Shorokhoff to the list of hidden gems. -From the classic, to the acquired taste, incl. handmade personalized watches and everything in between - there's something for every taste. The craft and engravings are excellent and the prices are unmatched for what you get. I own the Peter Tchaikovsky, black dial and the Sixtythree, blue dial. Two of his more restrained pieces, and I don't go to his website anymore to avoid going berserk and order one of his more outrageous but amazing pieces. Cheers.
F451, I'm glad you have one and seem to like it. AS is a brand I need to learn more about. Debois-Depraz is one of their basis, but I'm not clear at all on their movement. Any insights would be helpful. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
@@watchartsci . I own two actually. Shorokhoff is a Russian living and working in Germany for three decades. Knowing your preference for in-house and more specialized calibers his work might not be to your liking. He mostly use modified Poljot (Valjoux) movements. His forte lies in the (for the prize) exquisite hand engravings and designs. They are art pieces - from classic to avantgarde. Subtle Russian cultural hints, but also German and other (ancient) historic themes. I believe he has a retailer in the US now, so not so much under the radar anymore - and well deserved. I lived in Berlin, Germany for a few years, and as much as I like German horology, I prefer his work. Watch out for the horological rabbit hole, Bill ;-) Cheers.
@@Memovox I thought Shorokhoff was using Poljot movements (I own a Poljot Alarm), but I did not realize they were based on Valjoux. That is interesting. As for my preference for "in-house" movements ... it's actually "good movements" and movements where the watch buyer (i.e., you and I) know what we're getting. It would help Shorokhoff if he stated, "The XX Model uses a Poljot xxx base movement that has been modified by doing YY and ZZ." You are right about the engravings, though... nice work. Take care and be safe, Bill😷 ... Join us for the live stream ... at 1200 GMT.
An honourable mention for the Zenith Class Elite Automatique with the Zenith 679 movement (in 37 or 44 mm) and sapphire caseback. The steel version can be had for well under $2000. A Swiss pastry of a dress watch with great pedigree and tons of class -- nomen est omen.
Quite a range Philip, 37mm and 44mm, but the 679 (based on the Elite 680) is certainly a workhorse. I wonder why Zenith has 44mm Type 20 Pilots and the 33mm Elite Ultra Thin Lady Bracelet (with center seconds) both using the 679. I do agree that the Zenith dress watches using the Elite 679 (as well as ones with the 680) is a fertile hunting grounds for great buys that are overlooked. Do you have one? (BTW, I'm a fan of the Type 20 😉) Take care, and be safe, Bill 😷
@@watchartsci Yes, I have the 37 mm in steel, 3-handed, no date, originally bought in Paris at an old-style dealership. Ironically, I had also been looking at the Hermès Dressage you featured, but, alas, they are very pricey here in Europe (Germany, in my case), even on the secondary market. Contrary to popular opinion, I think the dress watch genre will enjoy a grand revival when Covid restrictions are rescinded and people again enjoy dressing up for the opera or theatre and giving their sports models a well-earned rest. Greatly enjoying your videos, current and passim. Always best regards, Philip
@@philipsavage114 Yes, I think you are right about a resurgence of dress watches ... tired of being locked up with the G-Shocks ... time to put on the dog and get dressed up! Cheers, Bill
I just found your channel...I love it. I deleted a couple of channels I was watching because the whole show was about THEM, not horology or art of any kind. Stay true. Great work.
There is also a really cool Dressage Chronograph with a module planted onto that H1837 Vaucher base. I'm thinking its a Dubois-Depraz, but I haven't figured it out yet. I'm totally sold on the Vaucher-Hermes and Agenhor-Hermes watches because of you!
Hey Ton, thanks for that info. on the Dressage Chronograph. A little research can result in better watches at much better prices. Check this out:( agenhor.ch/en/realizations/ ) Along the bottom are thumbnails of watches with Agenhor modules; some of which are Hermès ... but some other gems too. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Hi Wataki, in getting a Hermès, check to make sure the movement is either caliber H1837 or H1950. Some great buys available. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Hi Bill. A recent view at the Parmigiani website - you can´t get a new Tonda 1950 in stainless steel anymore. A good reason to one at the preowned market before drying up. Stay safe Mogens.
One of these days I may break down and get one, Erik, but for now, I'm just saving and trying to sell off pieces I don't use any more. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
They're good looking, but I wonder whether their movements, like the LA18.1, manually wind, 18000 bph doesn't have an ETA/UNITAS 6498-1 base. Nothing wrong with it, but I've come not to trust a watchmaker without full transparency. Around $7,000 might be steep when I can get a Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde with the same base for around $450... The Laines look nice, though. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
@@watchartsci thanks for your comment. Yes the base is off the 6498 which has been communicated before for the Gelidus line(40.5mm). His V38 watch which is a 38mm case actually uses the Vaucher 5401. The best part of his watches is actually the dial. The guilloche is done with a rose machine. Stay safe as well!
@@Rsolanzo I must have missed that part about the 6498; now the V38 line with the VMF 5401 that's an excellent movement that I must have missed. Thanks for the update.Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Looking at these Bill! Just bought a VC Quai de L’lle on a great discount new! Plus had it delivered to my Portsmouth NH Office - so no tax! Deal!!!! Bought it on Walmart online. Can believe I bought a Vacheron Constantin in Walmart!!! Love that story. Got it 2 days ago. Absolutely love it. The only thing is it’s 30m water 💦 resident but not like I’m going diving with this watch. Also, it doesn’t hack but I’m ok with that too. Since when is a mechanical watch that precise. I can’t believe how nice it is!! My daily now. Nice video mate 🇺🇸
Way to go Tim! Great watch. Back in 2016 when I first put one on, I loved it. It has an excellent movement in the 5100/1 caliber. VC spent a good deal of time and resources on that movement, and to have one is fantastic... at a great price, even more so! Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Another hidden value proposition watches video, I really need to get a bigger budget for watches :D Thanks Bill for always making me want to buy more of these awesome affordable watches :D I would say at the moment, Breguet, Chopard LUC, GP and Piaget are three High Horology brands that have amazing watches that could be got under 5k and 10k.
I wasn't sure what collectors would think of the unusual Dressage at the end with the hidden hour hand, Eye Heart, but most seem to see the same thing I did. A unique and interesting watch.Take care and be safe, Bill😷
WatchArtSci , I’m an ETA guy, not high horology but parts are easily available. Recently fell under the spell of titanium (lightest & high strength metal). Always amazed to see the variety of watch : the look, function, material used, etc.Have à look at Tissot Carrousel (circa late 60s-70) /e-Bay full kit, which was way ahead of its time. Timing in the watch business can make it or break it for many companies as you know (Zenith El-Primero history). Your tungsten oscillating mass is very hard to produce: high temperature of fusion (mold has to withstand high harsh températures) , engraving on it is very hard (very high density & hard surface), this metal is getting scarcer. Used to be in old incandescent light bulbs 💡. Who could go wrong with a Vaucher movement ? I admire high horology 👌❤️👍 What’s on your future: to buy list? Take care, John
Hi Bill, another interesting episode. Monsieur Arpel, excuse moi, I cannot tell what time it is with the skeleton hands merging in with the dial, sacre bleu!
Because so many watch brands are " tied up," our a/d is selling the heck out of Omega. My wife bought an Omega today. I unhesitatingly recommend Korman Jewelers of Austin, Texas, for straight forward dealing. Korman carries Rolex, Tudor, Hamilton, and Omega.
Hey James, Omegas are nice watches, but it sounds like Korman Jewelers are pretty limited in what they sell. The next time you're in New York City, go to Cellini Jewelers on Park Avenue (just walk out to the 45th Street exit from Grand Central Terminal and through the Helmsly Building and on to Park Ave.) At Cellini's you'll find Grönefeld, Voutilainen, Parmigiani Fleurier, Laurent Ferrier, Urban Jürgensen, H. Moser et Cie, ... and on and on. After you're finished with Cellini's heading up-town turn left and go over to Madison and drop by the A. Lange, Jaeger-LeCoultre, F.P. Journe, and Vacheron Constantin boutiques... then over to 5th Avenue for Rolex, Tonneau, Harry Winston, Breguet, Blancpain and Piaget. Then over to Tiffany's to pick up a 'Get Out of Jail Free' gift for you wife. You'll love it! Take care, be safe, and don't listen to me! Bill 😉
Steve, I like all foreign languages and wish I could speak them all. I've had years of Spanish, and if I'm in a Spanish-speaking culture I can get by. But I really like French, German, Russian, Italian, Japanese (which I was able to speak some when I lived there as a kid), Chinese and every other language. I've struggled with... I'll keep working on my French ... thinking my beret will help...I've given lectures in Brazil, Bulgaria, The Netherlands, and Germany and even some introductory remarks in those languages fail me. (Ironically, I can pick up just about any computer language in a day...) Take care and be safe, Bill😷
The Quai D’Ille IMHO is a masterpiece yet to be recognized. For me, it is close to being the perfect watch. The Van Cleef & Arpels and Hermès references are exciting as well. The Hermès cases are as worthy of note as the Vaucher movements. There is little attention paid to horological design iconography as compared to architectural design iconography (i.e. the Pattern Language group at U Cal Berkeley)in terms of how certain basic forms and elements combine to form our concept of what a satisfying sport watch should look like as contrasted with what a satisfying dress watch should look like. For a large scale manufacturer, Cartier is still probably the master of horological design iconography but as Hermès evolves as a watch brand their design iconography is becoming better and better. This talk of horological iconography sounds silly but when I try to understand why some new references or reissues succeed while others fail I find that it is the visual imagery of the watch that is first and foremost. For example, Piaget is the historic champ of the thin movement but the Bulgari Octo Finnissimo references overtook Piaget in the marketplace. I would submit that, while there is no doubt about the Bulgari movements representing a high level of craftsmanship, Bulgari outflanked Piaget because of better design iconography. You are movement centric but the Pershing references did not fail for lack of a great movement but rather because the Pershing did not have the design iconography that purchasers of luxury sport watches valued.
Hey Howard, thanks for the material on horological design iconography. I'm not even sure how I feel about watch dial design, but I find myself drawn to both a simple 2-3 hand with a clean dial as well as innovative ways to display time with jumping hours and retrogrades. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Good video, some nice gems. Very nice looking mechanical movements,its so true that one should never judge a book by its cover. Like the Hermes dressge L'Heure Masquee, mainly because its an interesting different fun piece, but not sure I would buy one. nice review enjoyable and interesting Break Time
Break Time or To Fu? You got two names my man-which should I use?! The L'Heure Masquee gives you something to do instead of just looking at the watch. I like that. Take care, and be safe, Bill 😷
Another very interesting selection. But why do watch snobs look down so much on generic movements. These are often developed to higher standards than many in-house movements. The likes of IWC who use(d) ETA in their base models do it because they offer better value than they could provide. In the end it is the customer who benefits by getting a lower priced watch.
VC has officially discontinued the Quai De L'ile if anyone is interested. I was disappointed to find this out. Probably one of the biggest bargains in all of horology.
Yeah, they dropped the Quai De L'ile a year or so ago, MK. But there are plenty out there, so if you want one, you should be able to find one. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
The Gem is in-house movement with non precious metal. I figure if a brand offers both gold and steel on the similar watch, the difference is usually $15K more for gold: maybe $10K for the case and $5K for the rotor. If Qual De L'lle adds $5K gold rotor, it becomes $20K Oversea exact. And add gold case and link, you got $40K grail model. Or backtrack: if you find a gold watch, substracting $15K leads to your target price steel gem with same movements. Meanwhile, Tungsten density is 19.25 g/cm3 is same as gold 19.3g/cm3 (vs platinum 21.1), so function is the same as in rotor. I know Tungsten is just "hard" to mold, but not our consumer's problem and its result looks Platinum so why not :)
Thanks for the interesting gold analysis Min! Tungsten (W) has an atomic weight of 183.84 and gold (AU) is 196.97. Closer to gold is platinum (Pt) at 195.08 ... but not much saved there. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
@@watchartsci I still think Au is closer to T than to Pl in rotor function. rotor is effected by inertia which is weight, which is decided by density. Au atomic weight is closer to Pl but its density is closer to T, because Au atoms are less packed in structure. I just want to feel steel QDL still wind the same effect as Oversea in case i get one. :)
@@your9mare I see. I have a platinum micro-rotor in my Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels Heure d'Ici & Heure d'Ailleurs, and it feels like my gold one in my Urban Jürgensen, but I like the QDL a lot and wouldn't care what materials they used for a rotor as long as it did the job. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
New to the hobby and still figuring out what I like. You are a wealth of knowledge and finding your channel very enjoyable!
Welcome Stephen both to WatchArtSci and this wonderful and crazy hobby our ours. We also have a FB page, 'High Horology Lounge' if you're interested. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Always great to see more timepieces! Keep the hidden gems coming!
Hi Javi! Hope to keep finding gems ... I'm afraid I'll run out some day (without having to go to vintage). Take care and be safe, Bill😷
i know Im kind of randomly asking but do anybody know a good website to stream newly released movies online?
Good choices, Bill.
I always add Alexander Shorokhoff to the list of hidden gems.
-From the classic, to the acquired taste, incl. handmade personalized watches and everything in between - there's something for every taste. The craft and engravings are excellent and the prices are unmatched for what you get.
I own the Peter Tchaikovsky, black dial and the Sixtythree, blue dial. Two of his more restrained pieces, and I don't go to his website anymore to avoid going berserk and order one of his more outrageous but amazing pieces.
Cheers.
Agree.
F451, I'm glad you have one and seem to like it. AS is a brand I need to learn more about. Debois-Depraz is one of their basis, but I'm not clear at all on their movement. Any insights would be helpful. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
@@watchartsci . I own two actually. Shorokhoff is a Russian living and working in Germany for three decades. Knowing your preference for in-house and more specialized calibers his work might not be to your liking.
He mostly use modified Poljot (Valjoux) movements. His forte lies in the (for the prize) exquisite hand engravings and designs. They are art pieces - from classic to avantgarde. Subtle Russian cultural hints, but also German and other (ancient) historic themes.
I believe he has a retailer in the US now, so not so much under the radar anymore - and well deserved. I lived in Berlin, Germany for a few years, and as much as I like German horology, I prefer his work. Watch out for the horological rabbit hole, Bill ;-)
Cheers.
@@Memovox I thought Shorokhoff was using Poljot movements (I own a Poljot Alarm), but I did not realize they were based on Valjoux. That is interesting. As for my preference for "in-house" movements ... it's actually "good movements" and movements where the watch buyer (i.e., you and I) know what we're getting. It would help Shorokhoff if he stated, "The XX Model uses a Poljot xxx base movement that has been modified by doing YY and ZZ." You are right about the engravings, though... nice work. Take care and be safe, Bill😷 ... Join us for the live stream ... at 1200 GMT.
I like the Hermes Dresage Bill. Would prefer it in a manual wind. Thanks....
Hi Phil, I don't think that Vaucher makes manual wind movements. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
An honourable mention for the Zenith Class Elite Automatique with the Zenith 679 movement (in 37 or 44 mm) and sapphire caseback. The steel version can be had for well under $2000. A Swiss pastry of a dress watch with great pedigree and tons of class -- nomen est omen.
Quite a range Philip, 37mm and 44mm, but the 679 (based on the Elite 680) is certainly a workhorse. I wonder why Zenith has 44mm Type 20 Pilots and the 33mm Elite Ultra Thin Lady Bracelet (with center seconds) both using the 679. I do agree that the Zenith dress watches using the Elite 679 (as well as ones with the 680) is a fertile hunting grounds for great buys that are overlooked. Do you have one? (BTW, I'm a fan of the Type 20 😉) Take care, and be safe, Bill 😷
@@watchartsci Yes, I have the 37 mm in steel, 3-handed, no date, originally bought in Paris at an old-style dealership. Ironically, I had also been looking at the Hermès Dressage you featured, but, alas, they are very pricey here in Europe (Germany, in my case), even on the secondary market. Contrary to popular opinion, I think the dress watch genre will enjoy a grand revival when Covid restrictions are rescinded and people again enjoy dressing up for the opera or theatre and giving their sports models a well-earned rest. Greatly enjoying your videos, current and passim. Always best regards, Philip
@@philipsavage114 Yes, I think you are right about a resurgence of dress watches ... tired of being locked up with the G-Shocks ... time to put on the dog and get dressed up! Cheers, Bill
I just found your channel...I love it. I deleted a couple of channels I was watching because the whole show was about THEM, not horology or art of any kind. Stay true. Great work.
Glad you've joined us Mike. Let me know if there's something you'd like covered. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
There is also a really cool Dressage Chronograph with a module planted onto that H1837 Vaucher base. I'm thinking its a Dubois-Depraz, but I haven't figured it out yet. I'm totally sold on the Vaucher-Hermes and Agenhor-Hermes watches because of you!
Hey Ton, thanks for that info. on the Dressage Chronograph. A little research can result in better watches at much better prices. Check this out:( agenhor.ch/en/realizations/ ) Along the bottom are thumbnails of watches with Agenhor modules; some of which are Hermès ... but some other gems too. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Another very interesting video with more hidden gem! Thanks as always Bill!
Hey Bruce, thanks man. Hope to catch the Punters this week. We're in for a storm on Sunday, so I'll be inside! Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Love the idea of some of the Hermes; very often overlooked
Hi Wataki, in getting a Hermès, check to make sure the movement is either caliber H1837 or H1950. Some great buys available. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Hi Bill. A recent view at the Parmigiani website - you can´t get a new Tonda 1950 in stainless steel anymore. A good reason to one at the preowned market before drying up. Stay safe Mogens.
Good point Mogens! And you are right about now being the time to get one if interested! Take care, Bill
I love these hidden gems videos , Thanks Bill !
Glad to find them Junior. Maybe I can find some that won't send us both to the poor house! Take care and be safe, Bill😷
I loved the Quai d’Ile the minute I first saw it on your channel some years ago. Nice video Bill!
One of these days I may break down and get one, Erik, but for now, I'm just saving and trying to sell off pieces I don't use any more. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Can you provide thoughts about laine watches? He just came out with the G3 and V38 and the dial finishing is phenomenal!
They're good looking, but I wonder whether their movements, like the LA18.1, manually wind, 18000 bph doesn't have an ETA/UNITAS 6498-1 base. Nothing wrong with it, but I've come not to trust a watchmaker without full transparency. Around $7,000 might be steep when I can get a Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde with the same base for around $450... The Laines look nice, though. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
@@watchartsci thanks for your comment. Yes the base is off the 6498 which has been communicated before for the Gelidus line(40.5mm). His V38 watch which is a 38mm case actually uses the Vaucher 5401. The best part of his watches is actually the dial. The guilloche is done with a rose machine. Stay safe as well!
@@Rsolanzo I must have missed that part about the 6498; now the V38 line with the VMF 5401 that's an excellent movement that I must have missed. Thanks for the update.Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Looking at these Bill! Just bought a VC Quai de L’lle on a great discount new! Plus had it delivered to my Portsmouth NH Office - so no tax! Deal!!!! Bought it on Walmart online. Can believe I bought a Vacheron Constantin in Walmart!!! Love that story. Got it 2 days ago. Absolutely love it. The only thing is it’s 30m water 💦 resident but not like I’m going diving with this watch. Also, it doesn’t hack but I’m ok with that too. Since when is a mechanical watch that precise. I can’t believe how nice it is!! My daily now.
Nice video mate 🇺🇸
Way to go Tim! Great watch. Back in 2016 when I first put one on, I loved it. It has an excellent movement in the 5100/1 caliber. VC spent a good deal of time and resources on that movement, and to have one is fantastic... at a great price, even more so! Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Another hidden value proposition watches video, I really need to get a bigger budget for watches :D
Thanks Bill for always making me want to buy more of these awesome affordable watches :D
I would say at the moment, Breguet, Chopard LUC, GP and Piaget are three High Horology brands that have amazing watches that could be got under 5k and 10k.
My pleasure, Abdul! It's nice to hear that I won't be alone going broke buying watches. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
I like that Hermès Dressage at the end. Really cool what they did with the Arabic indices orientation.
I wasn't sure what collectors would think of the unusual Dressage at the end with the hidden hour hand, Eye Heart, but most seem to see the same thing I did. A unique and interesting watch.Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Another beautiful gem: your video on hidden movements of high quality! 👌❤️👍
Thank you John, Which gems are part of your collection? Take care, and be safe, Bill 😷
WatchArtSci , I’m an ETA guy, not high horology but parts are easily available. Recently fell under the spell of titanium (lightest & high strength metal). Always amazed to see the variety of watch : the look, function, material used, etc.Have à look at Tissot Carrousel (circa late 60s-70) /e-Bay full kit, which was way ahead of its time. Timing in the watch business can make it or break it for many companies as you know (Zenith El-Primero history).
Your tungsten oscillating mass is very hard to produce: high temperature of fusion (mold has to withstand high harsh températures) , engraving on it is very hard (very high density & hard surface), this metal is getting scarcer. Used to be in old incandescent light bulbs 💡. Who could go wrong with a Vaucher movement ? I admire high horology 👌❤️👍
What’s on your future: to buy list?
Take care,
John
Hi Bill, another interesting episode. Monsieur Arpel, excuse moi, I cannot tell what time it is with the skeleton hands merging in with the dial, sacre bleu!
Yes Paul, and they tend to be a little small as well... but they do have style. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Because so many watch brands are " tied up," our a/d is selling the heck out of Omega. My wife bought an Omega today. I unhesitatingly recommend Korman Jewelers of Austin, Texas, for straight forward dealing. Korman carries Rolex, Tudor, Hamilton, and Omega.
Hey James, Omegas are nice watches, but it sounds like Korman Jewelers are pretty limited in what they sell. The next time you're in New York City, go to Cellini Jewelers on Park Avenue (just walk out to the 45th Street exit from Grand Central Terminal and through the Helmsly Building and on to Park Ave.) At Cellini's you'll find Grönefeld, Voutilainen, Parmigiani Fleurier, Laurent Ferrier, Urban Jürgensen, H. Moser et Cie, ... and on and on. After you're finished with Cellini's heading up-town turn left and go over to Madison and drop by the A. Lange, Jaeger-LeCoultre, F.P. Journe, and Vacheron Constantin boutiques... then over to 5th Avenue for Rolex, Tonneau, Harry Winston, Breguet, Blancpain and Piaget. Then over to Tiffany's to pick up a 'Get Out of Jail Free' gift for you wife. You'll love it! Take care, be safe, and don't listen to me! Bill 😉
Some lovely quirky watches, very nice indeed! What your accent lacks in "Frenchness" is made up for by the beret 😉 Cheers Bill 👍🏻👍🏻
Lol
Steve, I like all foreign languages and wish I could speak them all. I've had years of Spanish, and if I'm in a Spanish-speaking culture I can get by. But I really like French, German, Russian, Italian, Japanese (which I was able to speak some when I lived there as a kid), Chinese and every other language. I've struggled with... I'll keep working on my French ... thinking my beret will help...I've given lectures in Brazil, Bulgaria, The Netherlands, and Germany and even some introductory remarks in those languages fail me. (Ironically, I can pick up just about any computer language in a day...) Take care and be safe, Bill😷
The Quai D’Ille IMHO is a masterpiece yet to be recognized. For me, it is close to being the perfect watch. The Van Cleef & Arpels and Hermès references are exciting as well. The Hermès cases are as worthy of note as the Vaucher movements. There is little attention paid to horological design iconography as compared to architectural design iconography (i.e. the Pattern Language group at U Cal Berkeley)in terms of how certain basic forms and elements combine to form our concept of what a satisfying sport watch should look like as contrasted with what a satisfying dress watch should look like. For a large scale manufacturer, Cartier is still probably the master of horological design iconography but as Hermès evolves as a watch brand their design iconography is becoming better and better. This talk of horological iconography sounds silly but when I try to understand why some new references or reissues succeed while others fail I find that it is the visual imagery of the watch that is first and foremost. For example, Piaget is the historic champ of the thin movement but the Bulgari Octo Finnissimo references overtook Piaget in the marketplace. I would submit that, while there is no doubt about the Bulgari movements representing a high level of craftsmanship, Bulgari outflanked Piaget because of better design iconography. You are movement centric but the Pershing references did not fail for lack of a great movement but rather because the Pershing did not have the design iconography that purchasers of luxury sport watches valued.
Hey Howard, thanks for the material on horological design iconography. I'm not even sure how I feel about watch dial design, but I find myself drawn to both a simple 2-3 hand with a clean dial as well as innovative ways to display time with jumping hours and retrogrades. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Good video, some nice gems. Very nice looking mechanical movements,its so true that one should never judge a book by its cover. Like the Hermes dressge L'Heure Masquee, mainly because its an interesting different fun piece, but not sure I would buy one.
nice review enjoyable and interesting Break Time
Break Time or To Fu? You got two names my man-which should I use?! The L'Heure Masquee gives you something to do instead of just looking at the watch. I like that. Take care, and be safe, Bill 😷
@@watchartsci Had to change my email so use To Fu stay safe man
Another very interesting selection. But why do watch snobs look down so much on generic movements. These are often developed to higher standards than many in-house movements. The likes of IWC who use(d) ETA in their base models do it because they offer better value than they could provide. In the end it is the customer who benefits by getting a lower priced watch.
John, just remember, snobs are none too bright and exceedingly lazy. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
You are the best thanks see you Andre Berlin
Hey Andre, thanks man! Take care, and be safe, Bill 😷
VC has officially discontinued the Quai De L'ile if anyone is interested. I was disappointed to find this out. Probably one of the biggest bargains in all of horology.
Yeah, they dropped the Quai De L'ile a year or so ago, MK. But there are plenty out there, so if you want one, you should be able to find one. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
Good review
Glad you enjoyed it Add! Take care, Bill
The Gem is in-house movement with non precious metal. I figure if a brand offers both gold and steel on the similar watch, the difference is usually $15K more for gold: maybe $10K for the case and $5K for the rotor. If Qual De L'lle adds $5K gold rotor, it becomes $20K Oversea exact. And add gold case and link, you got $40K grail model. Or backtrack: if you find a gold watch, substracting $15K leads to your target price steel gem with same movements. Meanwhile, Tungsten density is 19.25 g/cm3 is same as gold 19.3g/cm3 (vs platinum 21.1), so function is the same as in rotor. I know Tungsten is just "hard" to mold, but not our consumer's problem and its result looks Platinum so why not :)
Thanks for the interesting gold analysis Min! Tungsten (W) has an atomic weight of 183.84 and gold (AU) is 196.97. Closer to gold is platinum (Pt) at 195.08 ... but not much saved there. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
@@watchartsci I still think Au is closer to T than to Pl in rotor function. rotor is effected by inertia which is weight, which is decided by density. Au atomic weight is closer to Pl but its density is closer to T, because Au atoms are less packed in structure. I just want to feel steel QDL still wind the same effect as Oversea in case i get one. :)
@@your9mare I see. I have a platinum micro-rotor in my Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels Heure d'Ici & Heure d'Ailleurs, and it feels like my gold one in my Urban Jürgensen, but I like the QDL a lot and wouldn't care what materials they used for a rotor as long as it did the job. Take care and be safe, Bill😷