This is absolutely perfect and very helpful. Will be using this to adjust my KW V3 rear ride height, which is a pain without removing the adjuster and rear spring. Thank you for a brilliant video. Subscribed.
Great video thank you. I’ve just spent the past two days removing my stock M2 Comp suspension and fitting Litchfield Nitron suspension. First shakedown drive tonight and no squeaks or banging, just nice compliant damping. I found this video very useful, thanks for taking the time to share it. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@FaRKle0079 our B roads here in the UK tend to be full of undulations and broken tarmac. The stock suspension is fine for smooth German roads but over here it was way too stiff. In the tradition of Lotus and McLaren, Litchfield have chosen springs and damper valving that allow the car to breathe with UK roads. It now feels like it can attack a road with greater traction and keeps the tyres in contact with the ground consistently. The dampers feel like they’re filled with warm chocolate rather than nitrogen. Feels really good and has 20 clicks of damping stiffness to increase if I ever want to go on track. Very happy
Great video. You have given me the confidence to do this myself. I had a shop quote me $1200 just in labor for the front only for this, (Robbery) while my trusted hometown Indy said $300. Rear was easy, front looks easy since I have the pass through sockets. Thanks again!
Your thoroughness always impresses me - great job! Look forward to meeting up to discuss the suspension travel, motion ratio, and damping / handling observations from your M2.
Great video, I have a 2018 M2 and it seems the bump stocks are needing replacement soon. The dealer quoted me $3,000 for the whole assembly with the springs, shocks and bump stocks. But the shocks look to be in good shape, the only wear I saw was maybe some cracking on one of the bump stocks and the sleeve falling down. I'm the only owner, only ~13,000 miles, no track time, just regular highway/city driving. Considering whether the job is necessary at this time, since I didn't notice any change in ride dynamics or quality, either. Or if I can just replace the bump stocks only and postpone replacing the shocks until they show signs of actual wear. Also considering if replacing the bump stops myself is worth the trouble, though from this video it seems I still might have to take the shock out and get new tools to work with some of the hardware where it bolts into the car. Appreciate any advice, and awesome video documenting the process. Going to watch it a few times to get an idea of everything involved before I make any decision, but I'm planning on at least waiting until my next service appointment if I go the dealer route in six months time. Just got done with replacing the original tires this time. Cheers!
You shouldn't need to replace the shock absorbers with your mileage. You can just replace the bump stops (and only the ones you really need to, don't replace the others if they look fine). For the front the shock absorber doesn't even have to come out of the knuckle to do this.
Great video. Great detail. Thanks! I'm about to coilovers on my M2C... Not sure how I'm going to be able to pre-load the suspension though... Unless I just jack up the wheel to roughly the right height....
Thank you so much for this extremely helpful and professional video! I would have 2 questions: why is the torque so different between the two 18mm nuts for the front and the rear strut? 38 vs 71 Nm? 2. Question: for the torque for "top mount to shock tower bolts" (not shown in your video) there are two values depending on the bolt size (M8 vs M10). But which BMW has M10 for the strut mounts?
Thanks! 1) The rear shock isn't a "locating member" of the suspension. If you took out the shock, the suspension would sit in the same place. For the front, the strut is a locating member that determines how the suspension sits and is thus subject to more forces. 2) Almost all F8x are M8 thread for the front top mounts. M10 was only like the first year of production or so.
Great tutorial! Question regarding the Amazon Crescent pass-through socket set, which will cover both the front and rears. The compromise seems to be that you have to apply the torque wrench to the 10mm hex of the damper shaft (and not the large nut). Is that OK? I presume so, given there will only be a small rotation of the shaft as you apply torque?
hi, thank you for this video which will help me a lot in replacing my M2 competition shock absorber; I just have one question: When you use your jack to compress the spring, when do you know exactly when to stop jacking? (I use Google, translation, I don't know if I made myself understood correctly)
It was just a cheap etorx set from Amazon. Something like this will do:www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Socket-Chrome-Vanadium-13-Piece/dp/B087V5QYT9/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=27YD53B0QD6T7&keywords=e+torx+set&qid=1651793675&sprefix=e+torx+set%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-5
different subject about ride height- have you come up with a way of raising ride height on the front of an F22 stock shock? I saw your suggestion for the rear, which I will use.
I haven't found a way to continuously vary the front ride height. That said, you can raise the front end a bit (up to about 3/8") by putting a spacer/shim in between the thrust bearing that sits on top of the spring and the top mount. You can make this out ABS/Kydex or Delrin pretty easily (probably easier with Kydex and a hole saw).
I love that you leave the top mount in the car. Makes the job so much easier.
thank you for this video
my damper leak on my m2c
thanks to this video I will be able to change them!
This is absolutely perfect and very helpful. Will be using this to adjust my KW V3 rear ride height, which is a pain without removing the adjuster and rear spring. Thank you for a brilliant video. Subscribed.
Great video thank you. I’ve just spent the past two days removing my stock M2 Comp suspension and fitting Litchfield Nitron suspension. First shakedown drive tonight and no squeaks or banging, just nice compliant damping. I found this video very useful, thanks for taking the time to share it. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Congrats on the new setup! I hear the Litchfield kit is nicely refined.
@@FaRKle0079 our B roads here in the UK tend to be full of undulations and broken tarmac. The stock suspension is fine for smooth German roads but over here it was way too stiff. In the tradition of Lotus and McLaren, Litchfield have chosen springs and damper valving that allow the car to breathe with UK roads. It now feels like it can attack a road with greater traction and keeps the tyres in contact with the ground consistently. The dampers feel like they’re filled with warm chocolate rather than nitrogen. Feels really good and has 20 clicks of damping stiffness to increase if I ever want to go on track. Very happy
Hot chocolate !!
Thank you for the autozone tip! I couldnt find that thin wall passthrough anywhere. Very much appreciated
Thanks to this vid, got the job done without any issues fast.
Great video. You have given me the confidence to do this myself. I had a shop quote me $1200 just in labor for the front only for this, (Robbery) while my trusted hometown Indy said $300. Rear was easy, front looks easy since I have the pass through sockets. Thanks again!
Congratulations on a clear and concise video.
Fantastic DIY video. this will save you a lot of time if tackling this project. I also had to source different specialty sockets that fit.
Your thoroughness always impresses me - great job! Look forward to meeting up to discuss the suspension travel, motion ratio, and damping / handling observations from your M2.
Yeah, I'm really interested to see your findings and discuss!
instaBlaster.
Another impressive video. Your videos are always so clear and detailed which is always appreciated!
super informative, thanks for sharing!
Great video, I have a 2018 M2 and it seems the bump stocks are needing replacement soon. The dealer quoted me $3,000 for the whole assembly with the springs, shocks and bump stocks. But the shocks look to be in good shape, the only wear I saw was maybe some cracking on one of the bump stocks and the sleeve falling down.
I'm the only owner, only ~13,000 miles, no track time, just regular highway/city driving.
Considering whether the job is necessary at this time, since I didn't notice any change in ride dynamics or quality, either. Or if I can just replace the bump stocks only and postpone replacing the shocks until they show signs of actual wear. Also considering if replacing the bump stops myself is worth the trouble, though from this video it seems I still might have to take the shock out and get new tools to work with some of the hardware where it bolts into the car.
Appreciate any advice, and awesome video documenting the process. Going to watch it a few times to get an idea of everything involved before I make any decision, but I'm planning on at least waiting until my next service appointment if I go the dealer route in six months time. Just got done with replacing the original tires this time.
Cheers!
You shouldn't need to replace the shock absorbers with your mileage. You can just replace the bump stops (and only the ones you really need to, don't replace the others if they look fine).
For the front the shock absorber doesn't even have to come out of the knuckle to do this.
Excellent guide!! Thank you very much 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Great video. Great detail. Thanks! I'm about to coilovers on my M2C... Not sure how I'm going to be able to pre-load the suspension though... Unless I just jack up the wheel to roughly the right height....
Great video
Thank you so much for this extremely helpful and professional video! I would have 2 questions: why is the torque so different between the two 18mm nuts for the front and the rear strut? 38 vs 71 Nm?
2. Question: for the torque for "top mount to shock tower bolts" (not shown in your video) there are two values depending on the bolt size (M8 vs M10). But which BMW has M10 for the strut mounts?
Thanks!
1) The rear shock isn't a "locating member" of the suspension. If you took out the shock, the suspension would sit in the same place. For the front, the strut is a locating member that determines how the suspension sits and is thus subject to more forces.
2) Almost all F8x are M8 thread for the front top mounts. M10 was only like the first year of production or so.
Great tutorial! Question regarding the Amazon Crescent pass-through socket set, which will cover both the front and rears. The compromise seems to be that you have to apply the torque wrench to the 10mm hex of the damper shaft (and not the large nut). Is that OK? I presume so, given there will only be a small rotation of the shaft as you apply torque?
Yeah it's fine to apply the torque to the 10mm since it's the counter hold, meaning it sees the same torque when you're "torquing the nut."
hi, thank you for this video which will help me a lot in replacing my M2 competition shock absorber; I just have one question: When you use your jack to compress the spring, when do you know exactly when to stop jacking? (I use Google, translation, I don't know if I made myself understood correctly)
Are you asking about for the front or for the rear?
Sorry for the front
Are they have same spring spec? I have an m2 but in my country only sale m3/m4 lowered spring for m2 only have coilovers
PLEASE do an Ohlin R&T installation video. There arent many thorough ones on UA-cam.
I will later this year, have a set in the garage for my M2C.
@@FaRKle0079 any reason you are waiting to install them?
@@brianc8148 I want to get a good baseline of the car with the stock springs/dampers first, including some track time.
This is so helpful! What external torx socket set do you use?
It was just a cheap etorx set from Amazon. Something like this will do:www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Socket-Chrome-Vanadium-13-Piece/dp/B087V5QYT9/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=27YD53B0QD6T7&keywords=e+torx+set&qid=1651793675&sprefix=e+torx+set%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-5
different subject about ride height- have you come up with a way of raising ride height on the front of an F22 stock shock? I saw your suggestion for the rear, which I will use.
I haven't found a way to continuously vary the front ride height. That said, you can raise the front end a bit (up to about 3/8") by putting a spacer/shim in between the thrust bearing that sits on top of the spring and the top mount. You can make this out ABS/Kydex or Delrin pretty easily (probably easier with Kydex and a hole saw).
@@FaRKle0079 that is what i was looking for thank you
M3/4 F8X coils and upper fixings/screws are valid for F87 M2 Competition?
Yup, M3/4 and M2 suspension components fit each other.