Thanks for yet another great video mate. One tip for those changing to aftermarket shocks & springs. Strut and top hat assembly is best done with the strut off the car and a spring compressor to alleviate all pressure from the single nut. Doing it on the car without a spring compressor, risks messing up the nut and the thread of the shaft.
Great vid as always, just a tidbit for people pairing these with an MCS setup to avoid any confusion: for MCS-configured plates, they also come with a stepped spacer (as you show in vid around 14:32), but in this case it is to be placed within the monoball from the top. The MCS-supplied jamb nuts (top nuts) then go on top of that (confirmed by Jason M. at Vorshlag)
A couple more hints for anyone using this as a guide- 1) The strut top nut can be easily counter-held with a set of offset wenches. Specifically the harbor freight ones has lots of clearance. No need to impact them on. 2) If you don't already have a pass-through for the end link, the same offset wrenches will work there. It's easier to hold and spin the t30 in that case. I made a list of all the nut sizes and wrote everything out then made a tool run before starting, so thanks a ton for all the detailed info. It probably saved me several mid-job tool runs.
Another way to counter hold the top nut and not use an impact wrench would be to use an O2 sensor pass through socket. They are 22mm also. Great video!
Nice video as always Farkle! The factory screwdriver handle in the trunk is actually a 10mm for removing those cam locks (and might be an 8 also) safely.
I had the same issue with the threads. The passenger side was fine, but I needed to rethread the driver side. My shop was able to do it in about 15 minutes.
My f82 GC camber plates' ball bearings are worn out so I contacted GC for replacement parts. GC informed me that they have the newly designed slider plates (with bearings pressed in) in stock, so I ordered those and planning on installing next week. Hopefully whatever change they made is making the plate more robust.
Awesome videos sir... Excellent observation on the bump stop, I have the same issue on the G80. Keep in mind, flipping the orientation (nose facing up) puts pressure on the bearing center, rather than the shoulder of the spring top hat. I personally don't mind a bit of added rate from the bump stop with the additional camber. I think... I may try the KW HAS PUR OEM bump stop that comes in the kit, on the stock springs (I removed the kit, so have some extra parts avail.)
Yup! When flipped the bump stop will put its load on the monoball race (minimally), and mostly on the main sliding plate that the thrust bearing is sitting on. This is the same plate the thrust bearing puts the load it takes from the spring perch on, so I'm not worried about it at all. Going with an aftermarket bump stop like you're thinking of doing could work very well, with even better fitment!
I have these plates on my G82, but haven't tried adjusting them on my own? Is it easy to do at the track and is there any tutorial available that you know of?
great video! at 16:58, *if* you were to use a torque wrench (rather than an impact wrench) on the 22mm nut, what is the proper torque spec to be used here?
The proper torque spec is going to depend on the damper you're using. For stock dampers the spec is 71Nm (52 ft-lbs), but aftermarket dampers typically use lower torque specs and their threads/counterholds are made from softer metals that will strip/deform at stock damper torque spec levels. So basically, check with your damper mfg for that spec.
@@FaRKle0079 thank you! it seems this torque wrench vs. impact wrench topic is seriously controversial! (read some of the comments on this: ua-cam.com/video/2bab6x47CSs/v-deo.html). do you have anything more to say about it than what you already said in this video?
@@philipsailer3526 IMO it's not much of a risk if you keep the number of impacts low (like short pulses of the impact gun). You don't want to just keep the impact running on it for an extended period of time. Bilstein counter holds are pretty soft and crappy so that they frequently end up stripping so you have to resort to using an impact for future work.
Would the install be practically the same for the F3X chassis? I just picked up a set for my 335i, and your video seems to be the most in depth install i can find.
Yup, install is very similar for F3x, but even easier since you don't have to remove the carbon/alu brace! There are some torque spec differences, which you can find in my F3x springs/damper swap video ua-cam.com/video/p6usLM8-FIQ/v-deo.html
@@FaRKle0079 awesome! Hopefully it’ll be a bit easier since I have KW Street Comfort Coilovers already. Thanks for the link and all the videos you make!
Nice guide Farkle, quick one. Is the camber plate compatible with the H&R/Bilstein coilovers? They claim there is noy enough thread to clear the new bearing and stack thickness. Looking forward to your thoughts.
Vorshlag is saying their top nut doesn't have enough thread to grab the strut shaft? That's pretty surprising if true since they grab stock struts just fine. I don't recall Bilstein/H&R having shorter threads than the stock struts.
I haven't had any issues with knocking or bearing wear with the Vorshlag. Not sure what the service life is unfortunately (whenever they start making noise), but I really haven't seen any reports of them developing them like is typical of other plates.
I’m trying to decide what comber plates to get for my f80. I like the idea of the millway street camber plates, for being quiet, but the vorshlag plates seem very robust and offer more adjustment. What would you recommend for a car that’s driven 50% street, 50% track?
Wow, 50% track? That's a pretty high ratio! If so, I'd probably look at the Vorshlags. If you daily the car at all, the Millway street are probably better.
@@FaRKle0079 Hi Farkle. Great videos - now subbed! :-) Did you happen to take any DB level comparisons with the Vorshlags? I saw from other videos/posts that you measured 2-3 db increase when using the Millway Streets (although on a different car). I have the Vorshlags on my M2 and love the difference they have made to the handling, but find the NVH a bit much at times. Thanks!
@@widetyres I haven't taken before/after measurements with the Vorshlag plates. They've been pretty quiet for me, comparable to the millway streets thus far.
damn now these have a manufacturing defect for 2021 batches???? wtf is going on and missing bolts?? bruh….this is making me not want to get chamber plates the heck 🤕
I can happily say they've addressed the issues since I brought it to their atrention and I personally know people that have bought plates afterwards where everything was fixed.
Thanks for yet another great video mate. One tip for those changing to aftermarket shocks & springs.
Strut and top hat assembly is best done with the strut off the car and a spring compressor to alleviate all pressure from the single nut.
Doing it on the car without a spring compressor, risks messing up the nut and the thread of the shaft.
Great vid as always, just a tidbit for people pairing these with an MCS setup to avoid any confusion: for MCS-configured plates, they also come with a stepped spacer (as you show in vid around 14:32), but in this case it is to be placed within the monoball from the top. The MCS-supplied jamb nuts (top nuts) then go on top of that (confirmed by Jason M. at Vorshlag)
A couple more hints for anyone using this as a guide- 1) The strut top nut can be easily counter-held with a set of offset wenches. Specifically the harbor freight ones has lots of clearance. No need to impact them on. 2) If you don't already have a pass-through for the end link, the same offset wrenches will work there. It's easier to hold and spin the t30 in that case. I made a list of all the nut sizes and wrote everything out then made a tool run before starting, so thanks a ton for all the detailed info. It probably saved me several mid-job tool runs.
hi! if you were to use a torque wrench (rather than an impact wrench) on the 22mm strut top nut, what is the proper torque spec to be used here?
I think I found my answer, but am interested in your thoughts, regardless.. ua-cam.com/video/2bab6x47CSs/v-deo.html
Another way to counter hold the top nut and not use an impact wrench would be to use an O2 sensor pass through socket. They are 22mm also. Great video!
Great video. Always love how detail oriented you are and how thorough your video is. Thanks a lot
Nice video as always Farkle!
The factory screwdriver handle in the trunk is actually a 10mm for removing those cam locks (and might be an 8 also) safely.
Yup, one of the nice surprises of the BMW tools! How's your new diffuser?
I had the same issue with the threads. The passenger side was fine, but I needed to rethread the driver side. My shop was able to do it in about 15 minutes.
My f82 GC camber plates' ball bearings are worn out so I contacted GC for replacement parts. GC informed me that they have the newly designed slider plates (with bearings pressed in) in stock, so I ordered those and planning on installing next week. Hopefully whatever change they made is making the plate more robust.
That'd be great if GC improved their monoball design.
Great content for F87 owners.
Excellent video as usual!
Awesome videos sir... Excellent observation on the bump stop, I have the same issue on the G80. Keep in mind, flipping the orientation (nose facing up) puts pressure on the bearing center, rather than the shoulder of the spring top hat. I personally don't mind a bit of added rate from the bump stop with the additional camber. I think... I may try the KW HAS PUR OEM bump stop that comes in the kit, on the stock springs (I removed the kit, so have some extra parts avail.)
Yup! When flipped the bump stop will put its load on the monoball race (minimally), and mostly on the main sliding plate that the thrust bearing is sitting on. This is the same plate the thrust bearing puts the load it takes from the spring perch on, so I'm not worried about it at all.
Going with an aftermarket bump stop like you're thinking of doing could work very well, with even better fitment!
I have these plates on my G82, but haven't tried adjusting them on my own? Is it easy to do at the track and is there any tutorial available that you know of?
Excellent video!
great video! at 16:58, *if* you were to use a torque wrench (rather than an impact wrench) on the 22mm nut, what is the proper torque spec to be used here?
I think I found my answer, but am interested in your thoughts, regardless.. ua-cam.com/video/2bab6x47CSs/v-deo.html
The proper torque spec is going to depend on the damper you're using. For stock dampers the spec is 71Nm (52 ft-lbs), but aftermarket dampers typically use lower torque specs and their threads/counterholds are made from softer metals that will strip/deform at stock damper torque spec levels.
So basically, check with your damper mfg for that spec.
@@FaRKle0079 thank you! it seems this torque wrench vs. impact wrench topic is seriously controversial! (read some of the comments on this: ua-cam.com/video/2bab6x47CSs/v-deo.html). do you have anything more to say about it than what you already said in this video?
@@philipsailer3526 IMO it's not much of a risk if you keep the number of impacts low (like short pulses of the impact gun). You don't want to just keep the impact running on it for an extended period of time.
Bilstein counter holds are pretty soft and crappy so that they frequently end up stripping so you have to resort to using an impact for future work.
Would the install be practically the same for the F3X chassis? I just picked up a set for my 335i, and your video seems to be the most in depth install i can find.
Yup, install is very similar for F3x, but even easier since you don't have to remove the carbon/alu brace!
There are some torque spec differences, which you can find in my F3x springs/damper swap video ua-cam.com/video/p6usLM8-FIQ/v-deo.html
@@FaRKle0079 awesome! Hopefully it’ll be a bit easier since I have KW Street Comfort Coilovers already. Thanks for the link and all the videos you make!
Nice guide Farkle, quick one. Is the camber plate compatible with the H&R/Bilstein coilovers? They claim there is noy enough thread to clear the new bearing and stack thickness.
Looking forward to your thoughts.
Vorshlag is saying their top nut doesn't have enough thread to grab the strut shaft? That's pretty surprising if true since they grab stock struts just fine. I don't recall Bilstein/H&R having shorter threads than the stock struts.
How much total negative camber can you get?
Good afternoon, are there any problems with knocking on these plates? And bearing problems? What is the service life?
I haven't had any issues with knocking or bearing wear with the Vorshlag. Not sure what the service life is unfortunately (whenever they start making noise), but I really haven't seen any reports of them developing them like is typical of other plates.
So i really wonder how it feels on track
Feels great on track. Having more camber makes a big difference with front end grip through the corner.
I’m trying to decide what comber plates to get for my f80. I like the idea of the millway street camber plates, for being quiet, but the vorshlag plates seem very robust and offer more adjustment. What would you recommend for a car that’s driven 50% street, 50% track?
Wow, 50% track? That's a pretty high ratio! If so, I'd probably look at the Vorshlags. If you daily the car at all, the Millway street are probably better.
@@FaRKle0079 I barely drive my car, it’s mostly a weekend fun car. I ended up ordering the vorshlags. Hope I don’t regret it.
@@uncleben4536 Vorshlag should be plenty good for you then. I'm happy with mine.
@@FaRKle0079 Hi Farkle. Great videos - now subbed! :-) Did you happen to take any DB level comparisons with the Vorshlags? I saw from other videos/posts that you measured 2-3 db increase when using the Millway Streets (although on a different car).
I have the Vorshlags on my M2 and love the difference they have made to the handling, but find the NVH a bit much at times.
Thanks!
@@widetyres I haven't taken before/after measurements with the Vorshlag plates. They've been pretty quiet for me, comparable to the millway streets thus far.
damn now these have a manufacturing defect for 2021 batches???? wtf is going on and missing bolts?? bruh….this is making me not want to get chamber plates the heck 🤕
I can happily say they've addressed the issues since I brought it to their atrention and I personally know people that have bought plates afterwards where everything was fixed.