I have used this system for a couple yrs now. Its one of the best systems I have ever used. A few things that helped me out. I turned the grinder base around so it ran away from me so i could work off the top of the wheel. I could control the knife and the angle better. I used a block of wood and course sandpaper to true up the finishing wheel as it was alittle off. Over all a wicked sharpening system. Takes a little practice but its worth it.
I've been using this method for many years. I use a variable speed grinder. That way I can slow the speed down if I need to put a edge on first without heating up the edge. I also use cloth buff wheels. My father was a metal polisher for 42 years and used industrial grinders (lathe) to sharpen knives. I have about 40 different wheels for polishing/grinding. Great video.
Thank you Sir...I don't have a lot of time to sharpen my knives, chisels, and irons. You have shown me a system that I must get now...Thanks again and keep up the excellent inspiration.
My observation is that knife sharpening by hand is like a martial art. I got sucked into this channel because I decided to learn how to sharpen knives using the traditional Japanese water-stone method as a hobby. After spending a few hours a day over a few months, Im still at best, average. I started to appreciate why Japanse sushi chefs are held in such high esteem! Edge sharpening is still essentially "material removal" but on a much finer level. Working up through the grits is incredibly important. I only got my first blade hair-popping sharp when i got a 6000 grit stone. Stropping helps too. Im guessing here, but Ill say that the reason you work up the grits is to save time. It would take an eternity to strop a blunt knife until its sharp.. removing a few metal atoms at a time. This machine basically lets you strop like the bionic man.
I agree. It's an art to sharpen knives that way and I wish so bad I could do it. But I can't so I have to keep snooping around for other ways and this works well.
Well that machine looks awesome and Im jealous. Not to mention that in the field, nobody in their right mind is going to be carrying japanese water stones lol.
Did a little research on that sharpener. If its the same wheels they sell on Amazon in the uk, they are compressed leather. So my joke turned out to be literally true: its basically a bionic stropping device. Having just sharpened 8 kitchen knives for a neighbor.. im seriously considering investing in one.
TheWtfnonamez haha, that's funny. I've heard of the leather ones and I think they'd probably be better than these. The ones I have are actually compressed paper. Lot's of people make their own with MDF plywood.
I have not found a faster or better sharpening system than this one. TIP: Turn your bench grinder around so its spinning away from you and work on top of the wheels. Much better control...
Ya beat me to it. A similar video where the guy made his own wheels from plywood and laminated leather went so far as to reverse the base on his grinder rather than work on the back side. You probably can't do that with every grinder.
@@jeffreydeutsch7336 yes sir I agree. I saw that video also and did the same to my grinder. Reversing the grinder was really straight forward and easy. I also made an mdf wheel and wrapped it in leather. I can get really great results with it.
I saw your video on the sharpening system build, and was blown away by the level of professionalism and attention to detail ! You mentioned you don't do or have drawings. Surprising, as this level of execution requires extensive experience AND planning ! WELL DONE sir ! I do such drawings for a living, or did before I became semi-retired. I now help individual inventors with drawings and 3D CAD models for their new idea, as a way to keep my design skills sharp. If you'd like, we could discuss some drawings at no charge, that would meet the need, and would be professional and shop ready, if you think this would be a benefit to what YOU are trying to accomplish. Again, BEAUTIFUL work sir, and best to you ! -C.
Thank you very much. I am just starting knife making and this method of sharpening knives by far looks the easiest and fastest way to get it done. Thank you in advance for all the time and frustration you have saved me.
Made my own wheel from MDF took me about 10 minutes, had some polishing compound and tried it, works like a charm! Made my knife razor sharp in minutes!
I know this a couple years old, but I appreciate your comments about hand sharpening. I'm a little convinced it is a talent you're born with, not an acquired skill. I love my wheels!
Nice. I generally use diamond stones and a strop. However about 15 years ago I bought the Burke Sharpening system. Very similar 3 wheels-two use sandpaper and one uses a leather strop that you put your cutting/polishing compound. Also has 2 cotton wheels one firm and one soft. I use the Burke when I'm having difficulty with the stones. Certain steels/blades sharpen better on the Burke while some sharpen up on the diamond stones.
Great video, I have the same problems with putting an first edge on a new knife and I hate the Lansky set, it's so slow. With this system I think life is a lot nicer to me, thanks for sharing.
Maybe that's a bit late. But you forgot to mention the crucial aspect about rolling directions of the wheel and direction which should knife been set. Thanks. I'm very happy that I found your channel!
I have see a demo just like I have seen here. Same result. Amazing !!! The Demonstrator liked to operate off the top of the wheel so he turned the grinder around. He said it made it easier to set the grind angles. I know this could set a trap in a multi operator workshop but you have to reach over the machine to turn it on.
It’s really easy to have the switch on the other side. Take off the bottom plate to access the two screws/bolts holding the base to the motor then just turn the base around and reattach screws…that easy. Takes about five minutes.
Simple Little Life I might have to swing by for a quick visit at some point! I used to plow snow at the Walmart & police station in Strathmore, and occasionally still fly RC planes at the club near there. :)
I just ordered two sets one for home and the other for my sharpening business. You should get sponsored by this company. Big Mex wishes you luck and success with your efforts.
I have the work sharp belt grinder and in order to really get the best performance out of the extra fine 6000 grit polishing belts, i apply a small amount of camellia oil onto the belt. It really helps let loose the metal particles so they don’t get caked onto the surface and thus help speed up the final sharpening. ALSO, please sharpen the edge going away from the belt direction on the 6000. You cannot get a proper point to the edge unless you trail away while grinding only. You will round out the apex going the other direction and you will more likely cut the belt before you get it razor sharp.
By going from coarse grit to polishing without cleaning the blade in between you end up with a good possibility of contaminating your polishing wheel. It's a great system but don't contaminate your wheel by not cleaning in between.
I use a Wicked Edge for sharpening very dull blades or reprofiling the edge on screwed-up ones, and a Spyderco Sharpmaker (modified by epoxying DMT diamond stones to cheap knockoff Sharpmaker rods, with varying thickness shims to make the angles shallower for different steels and for making 3 or more angle edges) for maintaining edges on knives I've previously sharpened on the Wicked Edge. The Sharpmaker is just easier and quicker to set up and use if a great deal of material doesn't need to be removed. I finish with KnivesPlus strop blocks, one rubbed thoroughly with a 'medium' (white) strop compound stick, one left the way KnivesPlus sends it (impregnated with a very fine green rouge). Every blade I sharpen is screaming, hair-splitting, touch-it-and-you're-cut sharp and comes out EXACTLY the same way every time, and will hold an edge for a shockingly long time. For axes, machetes, and such, I use a small belt grinder, eyeballing my angles, going up to 600 grit.
Been using this since 1985. Never put a blade on a stone again. You can polish bolsters and back springs with it as well. Make an old pocket knife look brand new.
Glad I came across this video before dropping money on the Spyderco Sharpmaker! I have the Lansky Deluxe system but also just can't get it right. Cheers from Calgary!
stand the other side of the grinder and use the top of the wheel...you get so much more control. Also...an MDF wheel works really well and costs peanuts.
Nice simple setup! Would be awesome to make up a simple jig to hold the knife to the wheel on a consistent bevel. A MDF wheel will do a the same at polishing the micro bevel for any home gamers.
I use just stones, usually (japanese grades) from #1000 to all way way into #10000 or #120000. All it really needs is to keep the angle constant. It can take a few tries to learn though. I think learning to use stones took something like 6 months of learning initially. After stones I strop with a paddle strop. Initially or partially dulled edge gets up to 1um or 0.5um. After stones all it takes is a bit of 0.25um. Under microscope you can see the edge polish. For shaving a lot of stropping on pure leather after that. If you stop at #3000 you get 90% of the sharpness though. After a good initial sharpening, all it takes is stropping every now and then when you use the knife. With razors I've found they go up to a year if you strop them enough with good technique. My criteria for a shark knife is that it cuts through paper with its own weight. With razors a hair should split when dropped on the blade. Those mdf wheels are a fast substitute for manual stropping. I use sometimes felt wheels but I seem to get better results manually. Probably because I've done that a lot more then with the wheels.
Here is an easy way to make a visual aid for the sharpening angle. Take a flat piece of copy paper and think of it as a circle of 360°. Fold it once lengthwise. Now you have 180°. Fold sideways to make a 90°. Then fold twice from the 90° and you will have 22-1/2°.
Great video, I have this system on one of my grinders. I have a suggestion, you should turn the grinder around so the wheels turn away from you because it will keep you from catching the edge of the knife on the wheel, I know you don't have this problem but a novice will believe me. Another thing the polishing wheel is not round this is easy to corrected with coarse sandpaper attached to a flat board and touching it to the wheel while it is turning, it will be smoother when it is turned up, and you can do this to the grinding wheel also and put another coat of grinding powder on it when you get it round. Not being critical just trying to help.
Thanks. That's a good point, I appreciate the feedback. I've never thought of trying to get in really close before but I totally see how it is helpful. I'll work on that for future videos. Cheers!
Not sure you'll see this on an old video, is there any issues with humidity effecting the paper wheels? my shop tends to get quite humid in the summer months here in MB.
The website and Amazon links aren't working, is there a new link? Awesome videos my 12 year old son and I are just getting into making knives and your videos have been a great deal of help..
"You kinda need to pay attention to the angle of the blade" Ahhhh right. The angle is THE most important element of the sharpening process. Hunting (work) knives need far more angle to keep the edge strong.
Thanks for all the great videos. Are you still using this system or have you moved on to something different? Ive just finished my first knife and struggle putting a nice edge on it. Thanks for your help
And others want to sound like sharpening is rocket science with all their expensive gizmos. Way to go Simple. Nice that you were careful with "Stephanie." :-)
Thank you very much! That's actually the reason I got into knife making in the first place. I love knives, have a bunch of them, but once you have several $200+ fixed blades, it's hard to justify buying more. Once you have X number of great blades, it's certainly not something that you "need" more of. So, I started making them. (to be honest though, it really hasn't helped my desire to buy more knives though). The curse of a collector:) Cheers!
Saw a dude make these years ago and put it on youtube, can't remember what he used I think it might have been plywood or mdf, the same principle though.
+ Simple Little Life .....great setup, wow. I bought a Wicked Edge Propack II and love it, but it takes me WAY longer to get the kind of edge you just did in a minute or two......if I go through all the grits I have ( all the diamond stones, all the ceramics, then all the strops ) it gets hair popping edges, but takes a long time.
I've never heard of that system before but it does look quite impressive. Lots of ways to do it and as long as your knife gets really sharp, it's all good. Cheers!
yeah, it's a really nice system, albeit very expensive. The main selling point for it is the vise setup you mount the knife in. It locks up solidly, gripped at the spine, and you set your angles using the LH & RH arms the abrasive paddles slide onto. There is no need to " hand or manually " try to keep the same bevel angle....it does that for you. ( check it out here: www.wickededgeusa.com )
Darrell Allen I'm actually going to check them out. What you described sounds too interesting not to a least have a look at. Thanks for sharing the info. Cheers!
Great video it looks really good, I use my work sharp and it really works out for me I can get every knife shaving sharp, but this also looks like a great tool. Keep up the good work!!
You already have a couple nice 2x72 belt sanders. You should try some leather 2x72 belts and stropping compound. I use a 1x30 belt sander and various belts from 1800grit-5000grit and I also use leather 1x30 belts and stropping compounds to sharpen all my knives.
Thanks mate, just the video I needed. I do have a question though. I have a couple of knives made in Excalibur Stainless Steel, being so hard its hard to put an edge back on them. Do you reckon this will do the trick?
I got the same issue ... Couldn't find a sharpener I loved ... I have tried this one and yes it works but it doesn't hold an edge ... Ended with the worksharp because the edge is not crazy sharp but holds a working edge longer ... And I use my blades all the time
If you'll turn that machine around so the wheels go 'backwards' you can work on top of the wheel where you can see what's going on. The way you're doing it, you have the edge down in the dark where you have to 'guess' what is happening. Been doin' it this way for the last 54 years.
Can i sharpen an axe or machete with this? Large surface like machete is really annoying to sharpen, so something like this would absolutely be helpful.
Is it a rule if thumb to Always True up a wheel even when it comes from Norton or an MDF wheel? Like the way you present and explain your videos Thanks for the help, gary
I watched another channel that the knife got final process of leather stropping for removing the burrs (also, using bench grinder). Could you comment on this practice, is it necessary for the stropping?
The manufacturer recommends that the wheels go in the opposite direction where the wheels turn up and away from you. Opposite the way you normally would use it for safty reasons. When I bought my wheels it was stressed many times not to Use it in the conversational way. You might check your literature. Thanks I'm going to use mine for the first time today.
As you know, there are people out there that need to be instructed as to how to remove there heads from body orifices, and chew gum at the same time. Reading instructions is not there thing. Thank you for taking the time to read my comment, and making one yourself. Have a good day.
If you have years of experience using a tool it will always be safer to be consistsnt. if you reverse your process you will make things a lot more dangerous...
Good video nice knives you made there have you ever considered having the wheels spin away from you and using the top of the wheel so if the knife ever got caught or dug into the wheel it will go away from you instead of towards you? Tom R
I would also add that you just might want to have one wheel on at a time if you want to be super safe. I have ran my arm into the other wheel while working on a longer piece. The wheel won BTW. Just saying
Thanks! I usually shoot on either a Canon 70D, a Canon G7X MK2 or sometimes a Canon Vixia (450?). My favourite is the G7X MK2. The 70D is nice but with requires a shotgun mic or other external mic for decent audio, and then you have to by other lenses. The G7X MK2 is really a bang up package right out of the box and I could should everything on just that camera. Cheers!
How did you determine the angle to hold the blade at? Is there a way to hold the blade parallel the base and then position it traveling across the wheels at a certain degree of the wheel? Have you done axes or mower blades? Thanks
Carl Lovestrom I work as a welder for 45 years years and I know quite a bit about metal and let me tell you that the minute you sharpen a knife on a speeding wheel, you have altered the hardening of the cutting edge quality. Yes your knifes will be very sharp but, they will loose their cutting edge very fast. Best method is water stone, no heat whatsoever. Don’t forget that the cutting edge is very thin and heats up quickly and, to create a spark like you see in this video, you need heat!
@@charger440 Considering that 99.555% of knives that anyone will ever have began their life being sharpened on a belt grinder, I dont think your argument holds water. Yes, heat can damage a blade. But just about every knife made is initially sharpened on a belt grinder. You can absolutely sharpen with speed and not damage the knife.
The key is very light pressure, fast strokes and keep a finger as close to the knife edge as possible. You will burn your finger before you hurt the temper. Once again very light pressure
@@charger440 Heat from welding is quite different than that from grinding an edge or grinding with an angle grinder in general. As long as it doesn't show any discoloration ( anything beyond straw which is anything blueish and beyond which you don't want if you don't want to lose the tempering ) the structure will stay the same. As someone who had an apprenticeship as a tool and die maker i have been grinding and welding things for years and i know you have to apply a lot of pressure and heat to actually cause any metal / steel to discolor. I am working as a CNC machinist for 20 years with calcium silicate ( stuff similar to what'S in dry walls but harder and tougher ). We can't cool the cutting bits because that would ruin the material and we don't get any discoloration unless we run to high RPM and to much feed.
Yes, heat from a dishwasher doesn't change knife steel much. Thats mostly a hoax (still dishwashers and knives are a no go due to chemicals AND heat, but thats another reason) What everyone here tends to forget is the following: No one is saying the heat changes the metal of the whole blade. Actually only less than the first millimeter is what maters for sharpness. The heat from a grinding wheel doesn't change the metal of the full knive. However: Just like it heats those sparks, it also heats that VERY VERY small area that is the edge of the knife. It won't damage the knife as a whole and could easily be resharpened in a proper way, but an edge from a fast grinder is not as hard as the rest of your knive and thus doesn't hold its edge for as long as a slow sharpening methode. Moving faster does limit the of heat transfer. But at 3000+rpm with these wheel sizes, you need to move so fast it's undoable. when using half speed (about 1500rpm) wheels, it is possible if kept within a few seconds per pass (see Knifegrinders research on it). Less pressure decreases the friction, which indeed does lower the heat. But the edge is so microscopicly thin, that most of the friction is not caused by excess pressure but by putting it against a extremely fast moving and extremely coarse grinder (
Hello Guys, could I ask you what type of blades you are using? I mean, what goes on the grinder? I baught a bench grinder off Harbor Freight but it has different blades.
I use a diamond stone to sharpen the knife and MDF with some nerv-dull I got at Canadian tire to polish the edge like you it takes time but I can shave with it after and like you I have no hair left on my arms to shave off so I use my beard (dry shaving sucks)
Do you think it would be possible to hook up a VFD to the grinder and use the 1000 grit CBN wheel along with a slotted paper wheel on the other end, possibly adding a foot control as well? Or is it better just to go out and buy a new low speed grinder?
Another excellent demo. If you have an interest in making your edges even sharper using either compounds on this setup or waterstones, let me know. I've taught hundreds of people to sharpen and it's rare(1 or 2%) that I can't get someone to put great edges on their blades. Never had a knifemaker whose edges I couldn't improve.
Excellent video! What kind of steel is in those knives you sharpened? Curious to know, seems like the S30V or S35VN is much easier to sharpen than a basic stainless steel like 440 or something softer.
I don't give out the templates for my blades simply because I think it's important to have the knife come from the maker as much as possible. Even if you laid tracing paper over a picture of a knife you want to make, you'll find you are more connected with the blade because it's shape was drawn from your fingers. I find it's an easier/more connected process when I draw a knife myself. And, when you're all done, you can say you made the knife from drawing to completion. Trust me, you'll have more satisfaction at the end. Does that make sense? Cheers!
Thanks you very much, I appreciate it. For this video I used a Canon 70D with a 24mm f2.8 prime for the wider shots, and then I was using a 50mm F1.2 prime for the close up of the wheels. For a lot of my other videos I use the Canon G7X Mark 2. Those are my main cameras and if I had to choose one, I would actually chose the G7X. The audio is so good on it and the picture is great too. If I had the G7X before the 70D, I probably wouldn't have bought a 70D. I use a Rode Video mic for most audio with the 70D, but I do have a few others I use from time to time. Cheers!
Thank you so much for detailed info about your set up. I do have a leather craft channel. it is small channel right now but I want to keep doing what I like. I do make most of my videos on the desk. Things should be look clear when I hold something on my camera. So I am looking for what's good for my need. so I am wondering, Can Canon G7X Mark 2 really replace your 70D? isn't 70D what most youtubers are using for their clear videos?
leathertoolz yeah it is. And now the 80D is leading the way. The bummer with DSLRs is the lenses. I have a lot of lenses. I did photography full time for over 3 years, shot tons of fashion, won top 25 photographers in Canada a few years ago, and I hate having to carry all those lenses to make videos. Then there is the audio issue. For decent audio you will need an external mic of some type. Shotgun, lav, whatever. But the mic on the DSLR cameras sucks. The G7X MK2 audio is amazing. In from to of the camera, behind the camera, away from the camera, it just picks up great audio. Maybe I should shoot a little comparison video so you can see the difference. I really do think that the G7X MK2 is a better camera for the money by far. I'll do a few video on camera gear and you can see what I have. I'll try and do a decent comparative test so that by watching the videos you can really get a sense of the difference between the equipment. Now, I'm going to check out your channel. Leatherwork is something that I want to learn so bad but I find it to be way more an art than just whipping up a kydex sheath. Cheers!
OMG thank you so much for answering every detail. I really appreciate your answer. I am leaning toward to Canon G7X Mark2 now. I will wait for your videos and finally pull the trigger. your channel is awesome!
haha, that's funny! I've never seen his channel before but just subscribed. Thanks for the tip. Yeah, MDF wheels would work just as well too I'm sure. I just found it easier to buy this than make them. Lazy..... Cheers!
rmojo23, Do you put the 180 powder in the MDF wheel? And use the 2 types of wheels? Can you explain me? I just can´t buy this "Razor Sharp Edge Making System" from Brazil. Thanks!
I just use green compound on one and white on the other wheel. Yes I use two disks I cut out of MDF and mounted them the bench grinder and trued them up with a chisel. I then run them and add the compound. Happy sharpening!
The green compound, is the course one right? With this compound you can sharpen the knife from the very first time? Or the first time you use a stone, or something like that? Thank man!
1) The wax bar reduces the build up of heat on the knife edge and reduces the chance of burning the temper. 2) Is your grinder mounted to the table? If not you could have an accident. 3) Knife made from O1 tool steel! Great high carbon steel. Was popular in 1950's through 1970's. In my opinion still more useful than many of the more expensive steels.
I actually contacted the company because I had a grinder but it (Skil) was designed that you couldn't take cover off (?). They don't make grinders anymore. Anyway, the company, actually the owner in Willits California, recommended the HF buffer if you need to buy a machine as it provides more clearance.
@@samgross4619 I usually get between 10-15 or so. When I 1st got it I was a)putting too much pressure on it, and b)making way too many passes on the grit wheel. I did need maybe 8-10 passes with some knives I had that I don't remember where they came from and am pretty convinced were never sharp. But my Zwilling, Kershaws, Bucks, etc - 2 or maybe 3 passes on each side are plenty. The regritting is pretty easy. Paper under the wheel, regular Elmer's white glue spread with your finger, really dump it on while slowly spinning the wheel, let it sit until dry. Dump the excess back in the container.
And have you tried flipping it around so the wheels spin the other way so you can sharpen up top? Just curious because I see a lot of other guys do that
Hey Thanks! I usually go to about .030" or there about. Depends on the intended use of the blade as well. Also, I did actually flip the motor around on my sharpening system but I really didn't like it. I tried a few blades and I found the for me it just felt better the way I show it in the video. Cheers!
You guys that always look for a way to "save a buck", why not build everything yourself...car, boat, house, lawnmower, firearms, tools, clothes, shoes.
The only issue I would find with this system is sharpening certain steels with higher amounts of vanadium carbide, since vanadium carbide is harder than silicon carbide you could certainly end up with carbide "tearout".... although using a synthetic diamond powder in place of the silicon carbide would probably fix that issue or even cubic boron nitride also.
I use a edge pro apex 4 great system just takes a long time to reprofile . I am not the best at guessing the correct angle so is this worth the investment I do not own a bench grinder so will need on of them as well
Yeah, there are a million different ways, and some people do a great job with one while others can't make that one work for them. Kind of a personal thing too I think. For me, it seems like I was made to sharpen knives this way. That's how easy it is. I'm sure the next guy will try it and it won't work for him.....Cheers!
I have used this system for a couple yrs now. Its one of the best systems I have ever used. A few things that helped me out. I turned the grinder base around so it ran away from me so i could work off the top of the wheel. I could control the knife and the angle better. I used a block of wood and course sandpaper to true up the finishing wheel as it was alittle off. Over all a wicked sharpening system. Takes a little practice but its worth it.
turning it around was my first thought
YES, I prefer the top of the wheel going away from me. I just feel it gives me better control.
Just my preference, others may have different ideas.
I've been using this method for many years. I use a variable speed grinder. That way I can slow the speed down if I need to put a edge on first without heating up the edge. I also use cloth buff wheels. My father was a metal polisher for 42 years and used industrial grinders (lathe) to sharpen knives. I have about 40 different wheels for polishing/grinding. Great video.
Thanks!
I want to sharpen cleaver knifes , what type of stone can I put on the grinder. Thanks
Thank you Sir...I don't have a lot of time to sharpen my knives, chisels, and irons. You have shown me a system that I must get now...Thanks again and keep up the excellent inspiration.
Great vid! No bla bla, just business! Very rare these days. Thank you!
My observation is that knife sharpening by hand is like a martial art. I got sucked into this channel because I decided to learn how to sharpen knives using the traditional Japanese water-stone method as a hobby. After spending a few hours a day over a few months, Im still at best, average. I started to appreciate why Japanse sushi chefs are held in such high esteem!
Edge sharpening is still essentially "material removal" but on a much finer level.
Working up through the grits is incredibly important.
I only got my first blade hair-popping sharp when i got a 6000 grit stone.
Stropping helps too.
Im guessing here, but Ill say that the reason you work up the grits is to save time. It would take an eternity to strop a blunt knife until its sharp.. removing a few metal atoms at a time. This machine basically lets you strop like the bionic man.
I agree. It's an art to sharpen knives that way and I wish so bad I could do it. But I can't so I have to keep snooping around for other ways and this works well.
Well that machine looks awesome and Im jealous. Not to mention that in the field, nobody in their right mind is going to be carrying japanese water stones lol.
TheWtfnonamez haha, that's true.
Did a little research on that sharpener. If its the same wheels they sell on Amazon in the uk, they are compressed leather. So my joke turned out to be literally true: its basically a bionic stropping device. Having just sharpened 8 kitchen knives for a neighbor.. im seriously considering investing in one.
TheWtfnonamez haha, that's funny. I've heard of the leather ones and I think they'd probably be better than these. The ones I have are actually compressed paper. Lot's of people make their own with MDF plywood.
I have not found a faster or better sharpening system than this one. TIP: Turn your bench grinder around so its spinning away from you and work on top of the wheels. Much better control...
Ya beat me to it. A similar video where the guy made his own wheels from plywood and laminated leather went so far as to reverse the base on his grinder rather than work on the back side. You probably can't do that with every grinder.
And safety
@@jeffreydeutsch7336 yes sir I agree. I saw that video also and did the same to my grinder. Reversing the grinder was really straight forward and easy. I also made an mdf wheel and wrapped it in leather. I can get really great results with it.
Instablaster.
Agreed! I literally took a butter knife to that and within 6 passes, it sliced through paper like a scalpel.
Great video! Our in-house sharpening guy uses these and they work really well. Keepin' it simple.
sweet. good to know. Thanks!
If you spin that grinder round 180 degrees it will be running away from you. Would make life easier I recon.
Simple Little Life
I saw your video on the sharpening system build, and was blown away by the level of professionalism and attention to detail ! You mentioned you don't do or have drawings. Surprising, as this level of execution requires extensive experience AND planning ! WELL DONE sir ! I do such drawings for a living, or did before I became semi-retired. I now help individual inventors with drawings and 3D CAD models for their new idea, as a way to keep my design skills sharp. If you'd like, we could discuss some drawings at no charge, that would meet the need, and would be professional and shop ready, if you think this would be a benefit to what YOU are trying to accomplish. Again, BEAUTIFUL work sir, and best to you ! -C.
Thank you very much. I am just starting knife making and this method of sharpening knives by far looks the easiest and fastest way to get it done. Thank you in advance for all the time and frustration you have saved me.
Made my own wheel from MDF took me about 10 minutes, had some polishing compound and tried it, works like a charm! Made my knife razor sharp in minutes!
Joe Tabulka hey hey, nice to hear. Which grid do you use on yor wheel?
What’s MDF. Thanks
@@davidruiz5383 medium density fibreboard
I’ve heard of people making their own mdf wheels. How do you put the grit and n the wheel?
@@davidruiz5383
MDF = compressed, bonded, wood fiber.
I know this a couple years old, but I appreciate your comments about hand sharpening. I'm a little convinced it is a talent you're born with, not an acquired skill. I love my wheels!
Nice. I generally use diamond stones and a strop. However about 15 years ago I bought the Burke Sharpening system. Very similar 3 wheels-two use sandpaper and one uses a leather strop that you put your cutting/polishing compound. Also has 2 cotton wheels one firm and one soft. I use the Burke when I'm having difficulty with the stones. Certain steels/blades sharpen better on the Burke while some sharpen up on the diamond stones.
Great video, I have the same problems with putting an first edge on a new knife and I hate the Lansky set, it's so slow. With this system I think life is a lot nicer to me, thanks for sharing.
Maybe that's a bit late. But you forgot to mention the crucial aspect about rolling directions of the wheel and direction which should knife been set.
Thanks. I'm very happy that I found your channel!
@Glock D because with a regular grinding wheel you do point the blade into the direction of rotation.
I have see a demo just like I have seen here. Same result. Amazing !!! The Demonstrator liked to operate off the top of the wheel so he turned the grinder around. He said it made it easier to set the grind angles. I know this could set a trap in a multi operator workshop but you have to reach over the machine to turn it on.
I keep the grinder switch on and turn the machine on and off at the wall. Reaching over is really a no-no.
It’s really easy to have the switch on the other side. Take off the bottom plate to access the two screws/bolts holding the base to the motor then just turn the base around and reattach screws…that easy. Takes about five minutes.
Excellent demonstration. Will be setting one up soon. Thank You Sir
Cheers from Calgary! Grew up in southern Alberta and miss the farm life for sure. Thanks for the great video!
Right on! I was born and raised in YYC and now we’re only 20 minutes out. I like that city 👍
Simple Little Life I might have to swing by for a quick visit at some point! I used to plow snow at the Walmart & police station in Strathmore, and occasionally still fly RC planes at the club near there. :)
I just ordered two sets one for home and the other for my sharpening business. You should get sponsored by this company. Big Mex wishes you luck and success with your efforts.
I have the work sharp belt grinder and in order to really get the best performance out of the extra fine 6000 grit polishing belts, i apply a small amount of camellia oil onto the belt. It really helps let loose the metal particles so they don’t get caked onto the surface and thus help speed up the final sharpening. ALSO, please sharpen the edge going away from the belt direction on the 6000. You cannot get a proper point to the edge unless you trail away while grinding only. You will round out the apex going the other direction and you will more likely cut the belt before you get it razor sharp.
By going from coarse grit to polishing without cleaning the blade in between you end up with a good possibility of contaminating your polishing wheel. It's a great system but don't contaminate your wheel by not cleaning in between.
I use a Wicked Edge for sharpening very dull blades or reprofiling the edge on screwed-up ones, and a Spyderco Sharpmaker (modified by epoxying DMT diamond stones to cheap knockoff Sharpmaker rods, with varying thickness shims to make the angles shallower for different steels and for making 3 or more angle edges) for maintaining edges on knives I've previously sharpened on the Wicked Edge. The Sharpmaker is just easier and quicker to set up and use if a great deal of material doesn't need to be removed. I finish with KnivesPlus strop blocks, one rubbed thoroughly with a 'medium' (white) strop compound stick, one left the way KnivesPlus sends it (impregnated with a very fine green rouge). Every blade I sharpen is screaming, hair-splitting, touch-it-and-you're-cut sharp and comes out EXACTLY the same way every time, and will hold an edge for a shockingly long time.
For axes, machetes, and such, I use a small belt grinder, eyeballing my angles, going up to 600 grit.
From Canada i love this channel can’t mess with Canadians the Canucks
GO Canucks, DUMP Trudeau !
I just got this in the mail today from Amazon. I can’t wait to try it out!
Your comments on the issues you’ve had sharpening are very familiar. Thanks for the insight. Awesome video. Will subscribe
Been using this since 1985. Never put a blade on a stone again. You can polish bolsters and back springs with it as well. Make an old pocket knife look brand new.
Glad I came across this video before dropping money on the Spyderco Sharpmaker! I have the Lansky Deluxe system but also just can't get it right. Cheers from Calgary!
Hey awesome! These are pretty sweet. Thanks for the comment from my hometown! Always nice to see! Cheers!
Have you tried MDF ( Medium density fiber board) wheels with honing buffing compounds. Planing to make and try one.
stand the other side of the grinder and use the top of the wheel...you get so much more control. Also...an MDF wheel works really well and costs peanuts.
term of the day....LUBRICITY. love it!
Nice simple setup! Would be awesome to make up a simple jig to hold the knife to the wheel on a consistent bevel. A MDF wheel will do a the same at polishing the micro bevel for any home gamers.
Did you make a jig?
@@jeffstoney6055 I’ve made a solid rest that can change angle. No clamps just have to hold it in position and move across the dressing wheel.
I use just stones, usually (japanese grades) from #1000 to all way way into #10000 or #120000. All it really needs is to keep the angle constant. It can take a few tries to learn though. I think learning to use stones took something like 6 months of learning initially.
After stones I strop with a paddle strop. Initially or partially dulled edge gets up to 1um or 0.5um. After stones all it takes is a bit of 0.25um. Under microscope you can see the edge polish. For shaving a lot of stropping on pure leather after that. If you stop at #3000 you get 90% of the sharpness though.
After a good initial sharpening, all it takes is stropping every now and then when you use the knife. With razors I've found they go up to a year if you strop them enough with good technique.
My criteria for a shark knife is that it cuts through paper with its own weight. With razors a hair should split when dropped on the blade.
Those mdf wheels are a fast substitute for manual stropping. I use sometimes felt wheels but I seem to get better results manually. Probably because I've done that a lot more then with the wheels.
Here is an easy way to make a visual aid for the sharpening angle. Take a flat piece of copy paper and think of it as a circle of 360°. Fold it once lengthwise. Now you have 180°. Fold sideways to make a 90°. Then fold twice from the 90° and you will have 22-1/2°.
Great video, I have this system on one of my grinders. I have a suggestion, you should turn the grinder around so the wheels turn away from you because it will keep you from catching the edge of the knife on the wheel, I know you don't have this problem but a novice will believe me. Another thing the polishing wheel is not round this is easy to corrected with coarse sandpaper attached to a flat board and touching it to the wheel while it is turning, it will be smoother when it is turned up, and you can do this to the grinding wheel also and put another coat of grinding powder on it when you get it round. Not being critical just trying to help.
Kenneth Caine what is the name of grinding wheel product ?
Remember your art/craft is very micro in scope. The more you can zoom-in the better chance we can learn what you are looking at. Love the videos!
Thanks. That's a good point, I appreciate the feedback. I've never thought of trying to get in really close before but I totally see how it is helpful. I'll work on that for future videos. Cheers!
I’ve made those wheels out of fiberboard. I also turn the grinder around so I can work on top of the wheel and see the edge.
Not sure you'll see this on an old video, is there any issues with humidity effecting the paper wheels? my shop tends to get quite humid in the summer months here in MB.
I haven’t found that issue at all. I actually used these same wheels this past week and they’re still performing great.
Try storing your wheels in zip lock bags when not in use !
Maybe add one or two of the silica gel moisture absorbent packs.
The website and Amazon links aren't working, is there a new link? Awesome videos my 12 year old son and I are just getting into making knives and your videos have been a great deal of help..
your links are not working for me, is it still available?
"You kinda need to pay attention to the angle of the blade" Ahhhh right. The angle is THE most important element of the sharpening process. Hunting (work) knives need far more angle to keep the edge strong.
Thanks for all the great videos. Are you still using this system or have you moved on to something different? Ive just finished my first knife and struggle putting a nice edge on it. Thanks for your help
And others want to sound like sharpening is rocket science with all their expensive gizmos. Way to go Simple. Nice that you were careful with "Stephanie." :-)
Primus Optimus w
that skinning knife is badass where can I get one
Been a collector of knives in the past been looking into making my own. Saw your channel. Step by step great guide
Thank you very much! That's actually the reason I got into knife making in the first place. I love knives, have a bunch of them, but once you have several $200+ fixed blades, it's hard to justify buying more. Once you have X number of great blades, it's certainly not something that you "need" more of. So, I started making them. (to be honest though, it really hasn't helped my desire to buy more knives though). The curse of a collector:) Cheers!
Do you have any tips on re-applying grit to the coarse wheel once it has worn off completely?
Well I guess I know what is next on my list! Can't wait to try it out
oh yea man. These are insane! I absolutely love mine and wish I'd bought one years ago.
Saw a dude make these years ago and put it on youtube, can't remember what he used I think it might have been plywood or mdf, the same principle though.
+ Simple Little Life .....great setup, wow. I bought a Wicked Edge Propack II and love it, but it takes me WAY longer to get the kind of edge you just did in a minute or two......if I go through all the grits I have ( all the diamond stones, all the ceramics, then all the strops ) it gets hair popping edges, but takes a long time.
I've never heard of that system before but it does look quite impressive. Lots of ways to do it and as long as your knife gets really sharp, it's all good. Cheers!
yeah, it's a really nice system, albeit very expensive. The main selling point for it is the vise setup you mount the knife in. It locks up solidly, gripped at the spine, and you set your angles using the LH & RH arms the abrasive paddles slide onto. There is no need to " hand or manually " try to keep the same bevel angle....it does that for you. ( check it out here: www.wickededgeusa.com )
Darrell Allen I'm actually going to check them out. What you described sounds too interesting not to a least have a look at. Thanks for sharing the info. Cheers!
About to attempt my first sharpen on my marine raider Bowie by Ontario. 16 inches from tip to end of handle.
I make one with a piece of scrap plywood, 3/4 inch thick. Good video, I run mine backwards thou allot safer that way.
Nice! Thank you 👍
@@Simplelittlelife you should be able to reverse the base on the grinder
Hello, I'm from Costa Rica and I'd love to know where can I get that kind of products here.
02:51 I do the same with my Smits Belt knife sharpener. I 'modified' it very similar to your Work Sharp. I have WS belts on my Smith's now.
Very nice work
Thank you! Cheers!👍
Great video it looks really good, I use my work sharp and it really works out for me I can get every knife shaving sharp, but this also looks like a great tool. Keep up the good work!!
Thank you!
Dude as a fellow knife maker, I am the same exact way. I really need to find a better wY to sharpen. May have to give this a go
You already have a couple nice 2x72 belt sanders. You should try some leather 2x72 belts and stropping compound. I use a 1x30 belt sander and various belts from 1800grit-5000grit and I also use leather 1x30 belts and stropping compounds to sharpen all my knives.
I was thinking that but wasn't sure how well they would work. Good to hear they do work well though. Might have to give them a try. Cheers!
LOL!!!
Before I spend $80-100+ for this I'd just make my own out of MDF,bees wax,and some alum oxide grit
I've always wondered about putting a leather strap on a sharpening wheel.
Thanks mate, just the video I needed. I do have a question though. I have a couple of knives made in Excalibur Stainless Steel, being so hard its hard to put an edge back on them. Do you reckon this will do the trick?
I got the same issue ... Couldn't find a sharpener I loved ... I have tried this one and yes it works but it doesn't hold an edge ... Ended with the worksharp because the edge is not crazy sharp but holds a working edge longer ... And I use my blades all the time
Same here. Convex edges of worksharp just keep going.. Best solution for me so far
Great high quality video! Thanks
If you'll turn that machine around so the wheels go 'backwards' you can work on top of the wheel where you can see what's going on. The way you're doing it, you have the edge down in the dark where you have to 'guess' what is happening. Been doin' it this way for the last 54 years.
Can i sharpen an axe or machete with this? Large surface like machete is really annoying to sharpen, so something like this would absolutely be helpful.
Is it a rule if thumb to Always True up a wheel even when it comes from Norton or an MDF wheel? Like the way you present and explain your videos Thanks for the help, gary
This is a great investment, no disposable razors will be needed again!
I watched another channel that the knife got final process of leather stropping for removing the burrs (also, using bench grinder). Could you comment on this practice, is it necessary for the stropping?
Thanks! Very helpful. I am with you on the stones-I totally suck using them.
Hello, great video. How does this sharpening system work on Hamon lines? Does it polish them out?
The manufacturer recommends that the wheels go in the opposite direction where the wheels turn up and away from you. Opposite the way you normally would use it for safty reasons. When I bought my wheels it was stressed many times not to
Use it in the conversational way. You might check your literature. Thanks I'm going to use mine for the first time today.
As you know, there are people out there that need to be instructed as to how to remove there heads from body orifices, and chew gum at the same time. Reading instructions is not there thing.
Thank you for taking the time to read my comment, and making one yourself. Have a good day.
If you have years of experience using a tool it will always be safer to be consistsnt. if you reverse your process you will make things a lot more dangerous...
Good video nice knives you made there have you ever considered having the wheels spin away from you and using the top of the wheel so if the knife ever got caught or dug into the wheel it will go away from you instead of towards you? Tom R
I would also add that you just might want to have one wheel on at a time if you want to be super safe. I have ran my arm into the other wheel while working on a longer piece. The wheel won BTW. Just saying
Dude it's a great video, but when you're sharpening the knife i couldn't see how you were doing it
I always admire the quality of your videos. great lighting. What camera are you using? Did I ask you that before? You autofocus seems fast and sharp
Thanks! I usually shoot on either a Canon 70D, a Canon G7X MK2 or sometimes a Canon Vixia (450?). My favourite is the G7X MK2. The 70D is nice but with requires a shotgun mic or other external mic for decent audio, and then you have to by other lenses. The G7X MK2 is really a bang up package right out of the box and I could should everything on just that camera. Cheers!
Nice High ISO available on that G7X too
Great video. Will this work on lawnmower blades?
How did you determine the angle to hold the blade at? Is there a way to hold the blade parallel the base and then position it traveling across the wheels at a certain degree of the wheel? Have you done axes or mower blades? Thanks
Hey, great video! Question though... does the heat from this method ruin the heat treatment of the metal on the edge?
Carl Lovestrom I work as a welder for 45 years years and I know quite a bit about metal and let me tell you that the minute you sharpen a knife on a speeding wheel, you have altered the hardening of the cutting edge quality. Yes your knifes will be very sharp but, they will loose their cutting edge very fast. Best method is water stone, no heat whatsoever. Don’t forget that the cutting edge is very thin and heats up quickly and, to create a spark like you see in this video, you need heat!
@@charger440 Considering that 99.555% of knives that anyone will ever have began their life being sharpened on a belt grinder, I dont think your argument holds water. Yes, heat can damage a blade. But just about every knife made is initially sharpened on a belt grinder. You can absolutely sharpen with speed and not damage the knife.
The key is very light pressure, fast strokes and keep a finger as close to the knife edge as possible. You will burn your finger before you hurt the temper. Once again very light pressure
@@charger440 Heat from welding is quite different than that from grinding an edge or grinding with an angle grinder in general. As long as it doesn't show any discoloration ( anything beyond straw which is anything blueish and beyond which you don't want if you don't want to lose the tempering ) the structure will stay the same. As someone who had an apprenticeship as a tool and die maker i have been grinding and welding things for years and i know you have to apply a lot of pressure and heat to actually cause any metal / steel to discolor. I am working as a CNC machinist for 20 years with calcium silicate ( stuff similar to what'S in dry walls but harder and tougher ). We can't cool the cutting bits because that would ruin the material and we don't get any discoloration unless we run to high RPM and to much feed.
Yes, heat from a dishwasher doesn't change knife steel much. Thats mostly a hoax (still dishwashers and knives are a no go due to chemicals AND heat, but thats another reason)
What everyone here tends to forget is the following:
No one is saying the heat changes the metal of the whole blade.
Actually only less than the first millimeter is what maters for sharpness.
The heat from a grinding wheel doesn't change the metal of the full knive. However: Just like it heats those sparks, it also heats that VERY VERY small area that is the edge of the knife. It won't damage the knife as a whole and could easily be resharpened in a proper way, but an edge from a fast grinder is not as hard as the rest of your knive and thus doesn't hold its edge for as long as a slow sharpening methode.
Moving faster does limit the of heat transfer. But at 3000+rpm with these wheel sizes, you need to move so fast it's undoable. when using half speed (about 1500rpm) wheels, it is possible if kept within a few seconds per pass (see Knifegrinders research on it).
Less pressure decreases the friction, which indeed does lower the heat. But the edge is so microscopicly thin, that most of the friction is not caused by excess pressure but by putting it against a extremely fast moving and extremely coarse grinder (
Hello Guys, could I ask you what type of blades you are using? I mean, what goes on the grinder? I baught a bench grinder off Harbor Freight but it has different blades.
I use a diamond stone to sharpen the knife and MDF with some nerv-dull I got at Canadian tire to polish the edge like you it takes time but I can shave with it after and like you I have no hair left on my arms to shave off so I use my beard (dry shaving sucks)
Do you think it would be possible to hook up a VFD to the grinder and use the 1000 grit CBN wheel along with a slotted paper wheel on the other end, possibly adding a foot control as well? Or is it better just to go out and buy a new low speed grinder?
Another excellent demo. If you have an interest in making your edges even sharper using either compounds on this setup or waterstones, let me know. I've taught hundreds of people to sharpen and it's rare(1 or 2%) that I can't get someone to put great edges on their blades. Never had a knifemaker whose edges I couldn't improve.
Excellent video! What kind of steel is in those knives you sharpened? Curious to know, seems like the S30V or S35VN is much easier to sharpen than a basic stainless steel like 440 or something softer.
Would you happen to have a template for your boat knife? it seems very simple to make, especially for a beginner knife maker such as myself, thanks!
I don't give out the templates for my blades simply because I think it's important to have the knife come from the maker as much as possible. Even if you laid tracing paper over a picture of a knife you want to make, you'll find you are more connected with the blade because it's shape was drawn from your fingers. I find it's an easier/more connected process when I draw a knife myself. And, when you're all done, you can say you made the knife from drawing to completion. Trust me, you'll have more satisfaction at the end. Does that make sense? Cheers!
Awesome quality video! I like your videos. What camera or set up are you using?
Thanks you very much, I appreciate it. For this video I used a Canon 70D with a 24mm f2.8 prime for the wider shots, and then I was using a 50mm F1.2 prime for the close up of the wheels. For a lot of my other videos I use the Canon G7X Mark 2. Those are my main cameras and if I had to choose one, I would actually chose the G7X. The audio is so good on it and the picture is great too. If I had the G7X before the 70D, I probably wouldn't have bought a 70D. I use a Rode Video mic for most audio with the 70D, but I do have a few others I use from time to time. Cheers!
Thank you so much for detailed info about your set up. I do have a leather craft channel. it is small channel right now but I want to keep doing what I like. I do make most of my videos on the desk. Things should be look clear when I hold something on my camera. So I am looking for what's good for my need. so I am wondering, Can Canon G7X Mark 2 really replace your 70D? isn't 70D what most youtubers are using for their clear videos?
leathertoolz yeah it is. And now the 80D is leading the way. The bummer with DSLRs is the lenses. I have a lot of lenses. I did photography full time for over 3 years, shot tons of fashion, won top 25 photographers in Canada a few years ago, and I hate having to carry all those lenses to make videos. Then there is the audio issue. For decent audio you will need an external mic of some type. Shotgun, lav, whatever. But the mic on the DSLR cameras sucks. The G7X MK2 audio is amazing. In from to of the camera, behind the camera, away from the camera, it just picks up great audio.
Maybe I should shoot a little comparison video so you can see the difference. I really do think that the G7X MK2 is a better camera for the money by far. I'll do a few video on camera gear and you can see what I have. I'll try and do a decent comparative test so that by watching the videos you can really get a sense of the difference between the equipment.
Now, I'm going to check out your channel. Leatherwork is something that I want to learn so bad but I find it to be way more an art than just whipping up a kydex sheath.
Cheers!
OMG thank you so much for answering every detail. I really appreciate your answer. I am leaning toward to Canon G7X Mark2 now. I will wait for your videos and finally pull the trigger. your channel is awesome!
leathertoolz no problem. I'll probably do that video early next week. Cheers!
Any idea where I can buy this now
wow you and Izzy Swan have the same product the same day. I use MDF wheels on my bench grinder and do the same thing.
haha, that's funny! I've never seen his channel before but just subscribed. Thanks for the tip. Yeah, MDF wheels would work just as well too I'm sure. I just found it easier to buy this than make them. Lazy..... Cheers!
rmojo23, Do you put the 180 powder in the MDF wheel? And use the 2 types of wheels? Can you explain me? I just can´t buy this "Razor Sharp Edge Making System" from Brazil. Thanks!
I just use green compound on one and white on the other wheel. Yes I use two disks I cut out of MDF and mounted them the bench grinder and trued them up with a chisel. I then run them and add the compound. Happy sharpening!
The green compound, is the course one right? With this compound you can sharpen the knife from the very first time? Or the first time you use a stone, or something like that? Thank man!
yes
1) The wax bar reduces the build up of heat on the knife edge and reduces the chance of burning the temper. 2) Is your grinder mounted to the table? If not you could have an accident. 3) Knife made from O1 tool steel! Great high carbon steel. Was popular in 1950's through 1970's. In my opinion still more useful than many of the more expensive steels.
if we had a dollar for every time we heard "I'm gonna put a link right here" and never add the link.
I use the same wheels on a HF 6 in buffer turned backward. They do work well but have a learning curve.
I actually contacted the company because I had a grinder but it (Skil) was designed that you couldn't take cover off (?). They don't make grinders anymore. Anyway, the company, actually the owner in Willits California, recommended the HF buffer if you need to buy a machine as it provides more clearance.
Sharpened 5 and diamond grit is gone
@@samgross4619 I usually get between 10-15 or so. When I 1st got it I was a)putting too much pressure on it, and b)making way too many passes on the grit wheel. I did need maybe 8-10 passes with some knives I had that I don't remember where they came from and am pretty convinced were never sharp. But my Zwilling, Kershaws, Bucks, etc - 2 or maybe 3 passes on each side are plenty.
The regritting is pretty easy. Paper under the wheel, regular Elmer's white glue spread with your finger, really dump it on while slowly spinning the wheel, let it sit until dry. Dump the excess back in the container.
Turn the wheel around.....makes it much easier to sharpen...meaning the "on off" switch is not facing you
You can detach the base, turn it around and reattach so the switch is facing you.
Hello! I need to buy a system like this and I asked you:- where can I found this system and do they ship to Brasil?
First I want to say I love the video! What thickness do u take your edges before sharpening? Thanks. I just ordered this setup!
And have you tried flipping it around so the wheels spin the other way so you can sharpen up top? Just curious because I see a lot of other guys do that
Hey Thanks! I usually go to about .030" or there about. Depends on the intended use of the blade as well. Also, I did actually flip the motor around on my sharpening system but I really didn't like it. I tried a few blades and I found the for me it just felt better the way I show it in the video. Cheers!
So what's the best tool for doing it by hand and method?
I didn't check the date you published this. Helpful video but the link for the wheel is down.
Does grinder sharpen razor blades, electric shaver blades like Andis T line, lawn mower blades, axes, machetes, etc.. ?
Great video just could you check the links as i think that they are dead.
(Two thumbs up!)
Get the Ken Onion model from Worksharp with the blade grinder attachment! I love mine!!
i make mine from MDF works amazing and are cheap :)
You guys that always look for a way to "save a buck", why not build everything yourself...car, boat, house, lawnmower, firearms, tools, clothes, shoes.
@@CuriousKL why pay 50 for something that is only worth 5?
I wish someone would do a comparison of the 1000 grit CBN wheel vs Tormek T2 Diamond wheel vs your compound on these paper wheels.
The only issue I would find with this system is sharpening certain steels with higher amounts of vanadium carbide, since vanadium carbide is harder than silicon carbide you could certainly end up with carbide "tearout".... although using a synthetic diamond powder in place of the silicon carbide would probably fix that issue or even cubic boron nitride also.
What angle did you put on the knife?
I use a edge pro apex 4 great system just takes a long time to reprofile . I am not the best at guessing the correct angle so is this worth the investment I do not own a bench grinder so will need on of them as well
Yeah, there are a million different ways, and some people do a great job with one while others can't make that one work for them. Kind of a personal thing too I think. For me, it seems like I was made to sharpen knives this way. That's how easy it is. I'm sure the next guy will try it and it won't work for him.....Cheers!