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Very instructive video thank you. Your not stropping correctly though. I remember my grandad stripping his cutthroat razor on a strap he had hanging on the bathroom door. Long quick strokes flipping it over at the end of the away stroke.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
I am 70 now and my dad gave me my first knife when I was 8. He showed me how to sharpen it and that was all the help got. I have used the Lansky for many years now and my chef knives are wicked sharp. My hunting knife boned out two does and would still remove hair. The joy if this is that if you use the same angle you are only taking off enough metal to reset the edge. Its fast and hard to mess up. Works like a hot damn. I got the diamond version and it is old but still works exceptionally well. I cook every day and have a half dozen knives for boning, carving or cutting and they all work so well.
I used to work in an industry that sold these and bought the diamond set about 15yrs ago. I have been sharpening knives for easily 60yrs. I have water stones, oil stones, diamond plates etc and this is BY FAR the best way. The big upside of this system is that you sharpen on the exact same angle every time and you can lightly touch up or go full bore so you are not taking any more steel off the blade than absolutely necessary. I have been cooking since 1962 and since 70 every day. I have probably $1000 in knives in my kitchen. My knives are wickedly sharp pretty much all the time. This is SOOOOOOO simple to use and if you follow the instructions you simply cannot mess it up. And its fast.
Wow, that's possibly the most comprehensive endorsement I've seen on here. Thanks. I also find a diamond hone used occasionally keeps the knife sharp reducing the need to get this kit out too often.
You’ve done a fantastic job on using this product right out of the box. I’ve use the system for over 30 years. You might tell the users. You’ll only need to use the fine diamonds to touch it up from time to time.Thank you for showing the leather stropping I’ve never used it. But I will get one to try. Great job on demonstrating this product it’s one of the best I’ve ever used.
Thanks Bill, I appreciate that, and yes I'll pass that on 👍. Out of interest do you use the honing oil, as I attracted some criticism for not using it. Yes the strop is a key step at the end, I feel, to get the knife really sharp.
I've tried a lot of the same knife sharpeners you have. I really like that system! Thanks for pointing out why this one is more convenient. Like only having to flip the blade over rather than taking it out of the clamp and repositioning it. I did finally find a way that works for me though. One tiny constructive criticism though. When stropping you want to drag the knife edge down the strop long ways. Push the knife away from you. Starting at the heel of the knife, pushing while going out to the tip/toe of the blade. All in one fluid movement. It can take some practice. Go slowly at first if you have to. And count the number of times you sharpen and strop on the first side that you start on. Then flip the blade over and sharpen or strop the same number of times on the second side. You want the two edges the be as even as possible. Never strop by dragging the blade short ways on the strop. You'll just end up cutting the leather of your strop, ruining it and dulling the blade again. Practice makes perfect!! I was a Barber and used to sharpen my straight razor myself. A lot of other Barbers would buy disposable blades to shave with. It looked like a straight razor except the actual blade was a long razor that slipped inside a groove in what would be the spine of the blade. I now use a grinding bit on my Dremel and then the buffing pad with compound on it to sharpen really bad knife blades. Then I strop. I'm really good at it too. I can cut news paper with the axe blade of my framing hammer. I just finished refurbishing and polishing it this week. It's so shiny I can apply lipstick in its mirror finish. I find sharpening and polishing knife blades and axes to be very relaxing rewarding. Nothing is more satisfying than pulling a knife out of the block and being able to butterfly a good thick pork chop or a nice filet mignon. Like a hot knife through butter. Lol! Thanks for the video! You did a fabulous job. And you're cute too!
I went to a farm sale, and bought an old sandstone whetting grindstone. Heavy and awkward to set up, but once set up, it is brilliant. Sharpens any blade, even axes, in seconds. It is over a hundren years old, and cost me 60 quid, but I don't regret buying it for one second.
You say whetting grindstone. I the same as a grinding wheel? What im calling a grinding wheel was about 25 or 30 inch diameter. It had a foot pedal and a seat. At the top of the wheel was a drizzle cup for water. I ask because my grandad had one from his lumberjack days. It worked very well
I have had similar problems of using these modern tools for sharpening and found them useless over time. For me, the best sharpening stone has always been the concrete path edge in the garden or the front doorstep. Sharpens knives in seconds. Alternatively, as someone else commented, the old fashioned whet stone with a dash of oil also sharpens knives in seconds. The system your using here is somewhat protracted.
@@Paul-su3qh Really. I use the same stones that I use for chisels and plane blades. I've also used a Tormek which is slow but gives a really smooth finish. In any event, if you practice a few times it's not that difficult. Holding a fixed angle is the issue and practice makes it fairly easy.
I'm glad to see someone else say this about concrete!! I can get my knives sharper in just a couple of minutes using a good edge of a sidewalk or a stepping stone over any store bought knife sharpener.
Tip, when you’re putting the knife into the clamp make sure the gap between the two half’s of the clamp is even. If it’s not even you’re not at 90 degrees and you’re angles will be off!
It's usually not tho. Blades are beveled and then edge is beveled even more. So if clamps are even its not truly 90° with the blade. If it's clamped the way he did with a triangle in the middle its truly 90° with the blades bevel
Too funny! I just purchased and used the Lansky system yesterday myself and I was amazed at the ease and quickness of sharpening my knives! Cheers mate!
I got one of these years ago. I have $1000 worth of chef knives in my kitchen and Lansky does a quick bang up job. The best part is using it the next time it only dresses the edge in the same place so removal of blade is minimal. Wicked sharp. FYI a steel is NOT to sharpen but straighten the curl that makes a sharp edge duller. The mount is essential and should be part of the kit but would likely make it too expensive. I have water stones, whet stones, diamond stones but this is my go to sharpening system for my expensive Sabatier and Henkel kitchen knives as well as my expensive Cold Steel hunting knives. Im 70 now and this is the BEST sharpening system I have ever used.
I've had this Lansky system for many years, it's good! Always rinse 'stones' in clean water after final wash, dab them dry, then leave out of the box overnight to fully dry, (yes they will rust) Ease up on the pressure though Charlie, Stroke it, don't grind it, (I had to turn the volume down & look away when you were doing that point) As You said "let the diamonds do the work" ☺ (nice tip about warming the stropping board, I'll try that, Thanks ☺)
I’ve had this system for two years and never took it out of the box! I chanced upon your video tonight, watched it and now I’m compelled to put it to work. Thanks for sharing!
I have used the Lansky system for about 25 years and it is the only thing I use to sharpen all my knives. I like Pilot McBride's idea of using another clamp on longer knives. I started off with the stones and the course ones have developed a curve like you showed in your video. About three years ago I bought the coarse, medium and fine diamond stones and I have really enjoyed using them. I have never tried stropping but I will give that a shot. I will also get the extra coarse diamond stone. The only thing you don't mention is looking for the little break over bead that forms on the opposite side of the side you're sharpening. This forms when your stone reaches the edge of your blade and actually rolls over a little bit of the blade. You safely can feel this bead by placing your fingers at 90 deg to the blade close to the haft of the blade and pulling them across the edge of the blade and away from the knife. When I feel the slightest formation of the bead over the full length of my knife, I know it's time to move to the next stone. My knives aren't top quality and so when I sharpen them at 20 deg, they tend to lose their edge rather quickly so I do all mine at 25. Also, something a friend showed me was to sharpen a knife partially at 17 deg and then finish it off at 25. This give it a double bevel and looks really cool. Thanks for doing this video. I hope many people will buy the Lansky system and learn to use it!
Hi Tim, thanks for taking the time to write that. All makes sense and the secondary bevel (like you'd do with a chisel or plane) makes resharpening a lot quicker, I guess, and the blade more durable 🤔
This really works, I’ve have one. I bought this sharpening kit 8 years ago and I use it on every knife I own especially on my hunting knives. I bought two more kits for my sons, and they said it was the best thing I ever gave them. 😃
I agree. The best kit out there in terms of value for money, where you want to restore the factory edge to your knives. It's not perfect - the clamp isn't great and having to reclamp it for longer knives, but still.
Just bought the same set today. Your video helped me confirm I am now doing it right. I don't think I was at first, thinking I needed to keep the rod positioned in one rounded corner or the other as I sharpened, rather than the way you did it and just went around the blade keeping the rod up in the notch for a consistent proper angle. My instructions say to keep holding device at an angle, like you had it, or level front to back. Thanks for the video. I bought a bottle of oil that I didn't need that I'll take back tomorrow.
I've used the Lansky for years, it really is the best for controlling the angle. I like the mounts - haven't seen those before. You always learn something !! Give this system a try !!!
Excellent vid Charlie. I just received my Lansky set. I also have limited success with at least 6 sharpening systems. I still wasn't getting "perfect" results with my new Lansky system . . . until I watched your video! I was setting it up improperly and using the wrong sliding motion. Your results are now achievable. THANKS for taking the time to make this video.
You're very welcome - thanks for letting me know. Maybe use the oil though too, I didn't because I find honing oils quite messy but as the manufacturer recommendeds it, we should probably use it. 👍 Also get a decent diamond hone so that you can quickly resharpen the knife every now and then rather than having to get the kit out each time.
Absolutely worth every cent I paid for the kit. I've been using mine for 20 years now and I can't even see wear on the stones. Literally takes me just minutes to transform a blade. Not once did I cut myself whilst using it.
Another great video. Straight to the point and answered all the questions I had. I bought the kit and couldn't be happier. Your honest reviews have earned my confidence. Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much for that. Really chuffed you've found it as useful as I did. It's worth getting a good diamond hone too. That way you can quickly get the knife super sharp again, as and when it dulls, in between sharpening it with the Lansky kit. 👊
I really appreciate this video. I have had one of these kits of over 30 yrs, and I never understood how it worked!!! Mine has 5 stones for some reason. It has extra fine stone. Thanks again!
You're welcome Jack. It's a bit of a faff but a great way to get a factory edge and then you can keep the knives sharp with an occasional hone with a steel.
I 'knew" how to properly sharpen a knife but my hands would not let me be good at it. The Lansky Sharpener system is the best! I have used it to clean up poorly sharpened knives whether our kitchen cutlery, my pocket knife, my work knife, or hunting knives.
If you were going to set arbitrary angles to your knives, why wouldn't you just get an electric grinder with a vice, angle guide, and a few different sandpaper grits? Would've cost about the same, save a tonne of time, and the grinder could fix chips too unlike this.
The reason I bought the Lansky kit was my lack of experience and confidence using a plain honing stone and fear of not keeping the proper angle on the blade. This kit makes for an easy process of maintaining the degree of angle consistent. I've used this kit for a number of years and highly recommend it for anyone lacking experience sharpening their knives.
Quite a well-made video. In order to dispel all the rigmarole around the aura of sharpening, you have to understand the one basic fact: the cutting edge is simply two surfaces on an incline that meet at infinity (sorry, no epsilon on my keyboard). Where they meet is the famous razor's edge.I'm not a 100% convinced by your product, but it's quite satisfactory. The hundred quid mark is pretty dear, but there you go. With the strop, I recommend you use a little less honing paste. The colours are codes for the polishing trade. Red is for steel and brass, blue or grey is for aluminium, and white (not shown) is for ivory and sundry. I recommend you use only the red. Less quantity, and PULL strokes only. It's also better if you can cramp down the strop ; less "mucking around" and more "directed energy". The problem with the honing technique is that it tends to "round off" the cutting edge- which for all purposes, should be dead flat (which you were able to obtain very satisfactorily). The Japanese cooks sharpen their own knives to a terrifically razor-sharp edge, by very large stones only- absolutely NO stropping. Water stones are the best. But I'm going off on a tangent. I was a cabinet maker for nearly thirty five years, and I'm nuts about getting the sharpest edge possible. The finest water stone is about 18,000 grit. You need to use it only on Japanese knives and tools. Cheers. P.S. If you DO insist on a strop, you should use very hard leather with as little "fluff" as possible- it should have no bounce to it at all. Roger and out.
@@CharlieDIYte My pleasure. Hope I wasn't too profuse ! Actually my personal test for sharpness is simply a tomato ; the knife should slice the skin about half way through the full stroke, without applying any pressure. A sharp tool is always a joy to use. Thanks for your reply. I enjoyed your video nonetheless - you put things very clearly and have a good sense of logic. All the best.
My test is seeing if I can shave layers off of a scrap of paper or a business card. At that point the knife is sharp enough for my purposes but mine are more utility and less for soft food. Your mileage may vary. Sometimes this has revealed parts of the blade that are not as sharp as others and need more attention.
Had mine for a few days and love it. I'm pretty sure I read to use that oil that came with mine but mine isn't the diamond set but a down grade set but still love it. If that knife is never aimed at you you will never be cut. This is helpful and I do love the sharpening kit, Thanks
It’s a granite countertop and is basically indestructible. I have been terrorizing mine for 25+ years and it’s just as beautiful as day one. It will quickly dull your knives and I have been using mine to cut on for all these years. I finally invested in a wonderful set of knives so now am investing in the sharpening system. I even stand on my countertop to access my tallest cabinets. But I am also an experienced builder and use full 5/8” plywood under my granite slabs with a 2” miter edge that makes the granite look a full 2” thick slab. It make for a bulletproof countertop 😊
Yes, the Lansky 5 Stone Pro System is a great investment to sharpen your knifes, been using mine since 1987. But mine are made out of 5 different stones. Great job.
He has the diamond stone set which comes with for stones. U got the deluxe with 5stones. (Just not diamond). Diamond stones are needed for extremly hard steels (not kitchen knifes etc)
@@CharlieDIYte just tape a coat hanger to the end of the rod so it will reach to the end of your full size chef knife! I doubt it would work any worse than it already does!
This is the best lansky sharpener video hands down , the rest I watched all sped through the process so you couldn’t see a technique or hear the sound it makes …thank you 100x’s for making this video I felt like I wasted another $100 until watching this and going back and trying again..I’ve got $100’s all of dollars in sharpeners from work sharp to actual knife making belt grinders with belts from 90 grit to 10,000 grit and the always ruined my tip or kept it untouched and I never had a consistent bevel from choir to tip …now I do..adding the others to get a mirror polish will now be deadly sharp .
Thanks buddy. I should probably have recommended using the oil - maybe try it and see if it gives you a better result. Apparently lifts the metal filings off the stones better. More messy though and harder to clean the stones.
I watched this video while sharpening my beloved kitchen knife on a two-sided water stone. I them got it to the superfine grit using a piece of fine sandpaper, then stropped it with my leather belt. All told it maybe cost me no more than 30 dollars for a permanent setup that will last forever and ever (except the sandpaper, a sheet of which will last a year.)
Nice work. I've got to say, I've found a super easy method recently - using the diamond file on my Leatherman multi tool and then the back of my belt. Takes less than a minute to quickly get my knives sharp again. The Lansky is a great system for restoring the factory edge though, then you can keep them sharp whichever way you choose.
@@CharlieDIYte the victorinox is much better than the leatherman any day of the week. I used to have one but someone who wanted it far more than I broke into my car and stole it. Now I am on a disability pension and could never afford to get another one without taking a hit somewhere else in my life so I settled for a leatherman...:(
I have a Lansky (Pro) system and love it. After using traditional whet stones and diamond stones for tools and knives for years this system beats them all for simplicity and consistent results. I'd suggest that putting some electrical tape in the jaws of the clamp will prevent the knife spine being scratched, and instead of swapping to a leather strop to hone to a 'razor' finish, use a Lansky ultra fine or Sapphire stone, this keep you on the same constant angle system and costs £20, no need for compound either! (You could strop after that too if you actually wanted to shave with your kitchen knives) but don't bother with the compound, barbers never did!
I have been using Lansky for years, started when in the Navy and still have one. This is the best and easiest to use. I use it without a clamp and have had no issues.
Hands down the Lansky Diamond kit is freaking awesome ! I’ve used my for literally years now and I’ve never had a stand /clamp so totally up to you ! As long as your guide rods are level to stone as mentioned then you are golden ! Incorporate a tiny bit of water and keep stones clean then you’ll be rockin crazy sharp knives ! Be careful !
Cheers Rob. Yes for the money it's the best kit out there. A lot of people said I should have used the oil but my experience with lapping oil with my diamond stone for sharpening chisels etc is it's messy stuff so using water seemed like the best idea. 👍
I don’t even know why they put the bottle of oil in the Diamond kit ! If memory serves me it seems like the instructions said to not use oil on diamond stones ! I use water a touch of dishsoap and a toothbrush to clean my stones and have had excellent results !
Got the same kit for Christmas back in 1988, yup, 1988. Lost it in the Navy mid-90's and bought another sometime in the early 2000's. I only use it on my high end knives 2-3 times a year to keep the right edge and then use a cheap sharpener in-between.
Built an oak table top mount for this exact kit. Pull it out a couple times a year. Works very well. Stropping is for the overly concerned. For cooking purposes, the Lansky is more than sufficient in itself. Very helpful, cheers from Canada where we brutalize our knives on wild game.
Great video. I too have been using this system and find it so easy to get razor sharp knifes. I do recommend adding to your arsenal the Ultra Fine Hone (yellow1000grit) followed by the Super Sapphire Hone (blue 2000grit). Really makes it scary sharp. There is also the Leather Stropping Hone but you have this part covered already.... From What I have read, the honing oil is actually used for cleaning the two hones I mentioned above and not for using while honing the blade.. Honing the blade is done dry. Apparently a couple of drops of oil rubbed into the hone lifts the metal particles out of the hone surface.... Also wedging your left fore finger, as you're right handed, behind the clamp keeps the guide rod steadier. More consistent strokes. But makes your finger black...lol. So I use some scrap leather wrapped around my finder as a large plaster for the guide rod to run against....
Hi mate, thanks so much for such a long comprehensive comment - really appreciate that! Great info and I'll definitely add those stones to my arsenal. Also tempted with the leather stropping hone as it's got to be more consistent than stropping by hand, hasn't it? Thanks also for solving the mystery about the oil! Cheers, Charlie
Wasted - agen the oil is not for cleaning the stones, it's for the other kits that don't have the diamond stones and since lansky puts it in those kits they also put in the diamond stone kits at the factory, this is what lansky has said about it. Cleaning of the stones should just be done with warm soapy water because oil will clog the diamond stones
I have used this system for 5 years now. Here are my two tips: tilt the unit towards you when sharpening. You will be able to keep it much more stable that way. The 2nd is to mark the sharp part of the blade with a Sharpie and you can watch exactly where the stone is removing steel. I sharpened my brother in laws pocket knife and he said it was too sharp!
I just bought the Lansky system for sharpening a whole array of cutting implements but my dad had the same system when I was a kid, so I have some familiarity. Compared to what I was quoted by a professional, the system will pay for itself after only one round of sharpening my kitchen knives, pocket knives, and hatchet. Plus there is a certain amount of satisfaction in doing this kind of thing yourself.
Couldn't agree more Steve - smart move. Also, once you've restored the factory edge on your knives with the Lansky you can quickly get them back to full sharpness every now and then with a quick run across the strop, without having to get the whole kit out again.
When I finish sanded wood projects I noticed as I progressed through the different grits that the resistance started out higher and gradually got much easier. Even if I used a fresh piece it would remain easier. Upon changing to a finer grit it again had more resistance. My theory was after sanding awhile it had removed the coarser depressions so it could no longer fall into them and create the same resistance. I think that’s what happened with your coarse stone. It’s been my experience that coarse grits are less likely to load up prematurely. I just think the easier/lighter drag is an indicator it’s time to switch to a finer grit. Hope this smooths out the variables for a few issues. And also if you look down upon the edge of a blade with a light source in front of you and you see reflected light it’s dull and it needs sharpened. A sharp edge reflects no light to you. I might be stating the obvious for some but those who haven’t much experience might not have picked up on this yet.
Really, really great video. I used the Lansky Controlled Angle Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System for years, replacing the Extra-Coarse hone with the Ultra-Fine hone. But when got into my 60's with shoulder and elbow problems I bought the 4-Stone Deluxe Diamond Controlled-Angle Sharpening System. It is worth every penny (I live in the USA). I would recommend to anybody considering a Lansky Controlled Angle Sharpening System to buy the Diamond hone version even though it IS more expensive initially. The time and effort you save will make up for the price difference. I would also recommend buying the Medium Serrated Hone, Part #: LSMRT, which is a triangular shaped Medium Grit (600) Ceramic Hone . There is a similar Fine Serrated Hone which is a Fine Grit (1000) Ceramic Hone, Part #: LSERT but I cannot recommend buying it. The 600 grit is good enough on the front side if you get down to the Fine Diamond on the straight (backside). I did learn some new things from your video. Using Insulating (Electrical) tape under the top part of the C-clamp. I have been using either small pieces of Plexiglas, 1/8" hobby plywood or 1/8"Masonite board to protect the the top and bottom of my hardwood dining table, my MDF with Formica overlay breakfast table or my stone (granite) counter. However, I may still use a small piece of Plexiglas or 1/8" hobby plywood or 1/8" Masonite board to protect the the bottom of my stone (granite) counter. But the biggest takeaway was using the front screw as the clamping screw. I have been using the back screw, the one with the big knob on it to tighten the clamp. But your method of tightening the front screw with a driver seemed to work so much better. Thanks for coming up with that!. I was also amazed that you did all of the sharpening strokes on one side of the knife before flipping it over and getting a Great Edge! I have been doing 20 strokes on each side twice, then 10 strokes on each side, then 5 strokes on each side, then a couple of strokes on each side plus some single sided strokes to get rid of the wire edge before moving on to the next stone. I do agree with your process of going from the coarsest grit to the finest grit when setting a new edge. That is the only thing you can do to get your desired edge on an old knife. Wipe out the old angle, whatever it is,by setting the new angle with the coarsest hone you have. No matter how many strokes it takes.
I recently bought one of these systems. They are good. They do take a little getting used to. I couldn’t justify the cost of the “Wicked Edge” system at £350. But, I bought the Diamond version & the clamp. (The clamp is really worth it) I’ve been trying to sharpen a knife a day as re profiling a knifes edge to 20 degrees angle takes some time. Up to an hour in my case. I think I have loads of room for improvement as well. Definitely an investment. Think of it as getting to know something really well, it takes time, but your friendship will be worth it. I would say get the diamond because it saves all the fuss of oils. You just brush the surface of the bones with a little hot soapy water, dry off and it good as new.
Have been using Lansky for many years, tried and true. The only thing I had to do a couple of time, but you have to remember this is after 5 years of sharpening, is to replace a stone where the top of the plastic where the hole is broke out, and it was just a matter of a small amount of money to replace it. Pressure, as you know gets put on that area when your pressing the stone on to the blade edge, but in a light manner. They also now have an ultra fine yellow plastic diamond stone that works great for getting that fold over steel or burrs off.
You have to take pride sharpening a knife. It does take time but when you get that first razor sharp kitchen knife that you sharpened it is an accomplishment
Great video. My barber in my childhood had leather strops hanging from the bench beside each chair. He'd pull it tight and after half a dozen quick strokes of his razor set about older customers' hairy stubble with great alacrity and finesse. I don't recall ever seeing any blood - until I saw Sweeney Todd at the theatre.
Thanks Peter! Yes indeed and I've taken to using the strop more and more. I couldn't get my carving knife sharp enough even with these stones (doesn't help they're really designed for shorter knives) but a quick strop and miraculously it was razor sharp. I also use the strop to quickly bring my knives back up to sharpness without having to go back to the stones - although various comments have pointed out I'm not stropping in quite the right way! 🙄
Great stuff Charlie....... Been using Lansky for a few years now, stones not diamond. Stones are still in top condition. You said you have a problem moving the clamp when doing a large knife, well, here's the solution to that. Buy another clamp and mount 2 clamps on the blade. It will take a few minutes to work out just where they need to be mounted, but trust me (famous last words), it is easy to master. I have 6 clamps and mount them on sword blades, generally 6 - 10" apart depending on the blade profile & length. Relocating the spine (guide) from clamp to clamp takes a bit of practice, but after a while, easy as........... All in a day's work, lol. Never seen the need to strop, just fine pressure using the Sapphire stone will polish the edge perfectly. My wife is absolutely terrible with her kitchen knives. Think of the worst knife abuser you know and triple it (at least), lmao. After a few years of constantly sharpening her knives, I gave up and use Lansky's hand sharpener then give them a workout on the steel. Saves a lot of time and heartbreak, lol. My kitchen knives are hidden away, lol, and don't need the sharpening her knives demand. My bush knives are keen and only need a touchup now and then I learned to use the Whetstone sharpening well over 50 years ago and now only use them to sharpen my axes, hatchets and splitters, even got an old ironstone polisher. Cheers from down under ol' mate 😉 🇦🇺 🍺🍺
Me too tho I do cook. Funny how some vids grab your attention. I watched one on how to rake leaves efficiently - and my back yard is paved! ua-cam.com/video/XnkktN3FvAg/v-deo.html
If it didn't make you want to run out and buy a set of old, dull kitchen knives and the Lansky kit, then you're no MAN at all. It should have flung a craving on you to buy it and try it. Give me your MAN CARD, right now!🇺🇸
@@JamesGoldenboy Sorry, didn't mean to hurt you feeling. My wife and I both cook. I was on my own at 17 years of age. I knew how to cook, clean, sew, wash laundry, change a car/truck tire, charge and/or replace a car/truck battery, replace an alternator, change spark plugs, spark plugs wires, distributor cap and points. Then by around age 20, I was mastering the outdoor barbeque grill and a wood smoker for smoking meats. I eventually learned how to do plumbing, electrical, drywall, roofing and framing while working for a general building contractor. Spent 6 years in the US Army as a mechanic and 13 years as an Over-the-road Trucker, covering 48 States and 7 Canadian Provinces. Now, at age 51, I'm a pretty well-rounded man. I'm sorry your lacking manly skills.
Thanks for posting this Charlie, when you got to the stropping it immediately brought back memories from many years ago when my woodwork teacher was teaching us how to sharpen standard wood chisels. After we had mastered the primary and secondary angles - he then showed us how to strop it on the palm of his hand! 😳😳👀 This was back in the sixties before elf and safety became an occupation.😂 Anyway we all survived, I still do it - but would not attempt with a kitchen knife.😂
Thanks Norman. Yes, a couple of carpenters I work with still do that with their chisels!! The same technique probably works well with a piece of leather, rather than your hand! Thinking about it, it would have been a whole lot easier if I had bought one of these goo.gl/vf66pZ!
Charlie DIYte Or one of these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fashion-Straight-Razor-Wide-sharpening-Tool-Leather-Strop-for-Home-Barbers/282041064064?epid=870619175&hash=item41aaf51a80:g:K6QAAOSwWHBaQEGE
Now you have ground your 'edge' on the Lansky, NOW you can use your sharpening steel to keep it sharp. The steel isn't designed to remove metal, it is used to realign the finest part of the blade edge that will 'roll' over through use, Steels are used every few times you use your knife. When you cant get the edge back, then fine grind or hone.
Old post but, I used the lansky for many many years. One of the best. I live in the US. If you have serrated knives it works as well. You can sharpen anything with the right shape stones or diamond rods. I finish my knives with porcelain.
@@CharlieDIYte Properly done, finishing with a porcelain stone, a knife will cut a tomato just under it's own weight / drop the tomato on the knife and it will cut through. Many years of outdoor life. Hunting fishing and growing gardens
Thanks Andrew. It's the best value for money out there for what it does. Just make sure you use the oil with it, as a lot of people told me I should have done so. You live and learn!
@@CharlieDIYte oil is fine, long as it is a type that doesn't harden, because diamond abrasives aren't porous the oil kinda loses its benefit and water really does just as well anyways just is cleaner and cheaper is all.. lots of people like krudkutter or Windex.. I've never used them though. Water will do it for diamond, it's all I use and my knives are great. After a ceramic rod honing, a leather/and or denim will really refine that finish.
Love the lansky tho I do prefer free hand. I the edge on the tip with a lansky looks a little off but a great system that I would also definitely recommend
Holy compound Batman! 🤣😂🤣 I get it though. Ive done plenty of things for the first time. What's learning without feeling like an idiot a few times 🤷♂️
My grandad used a straight razor and before he shaved he stroked it across a leather strop that hung from the bathroom door. The strop had a secondary use as a tool to keep little boys in line.
@@gaptoothkid3501 Exactly. My Grandpa had one too. Grandma always used it as a threat. I never saw it used by her but I was never going to take that chance...
My mother had a strop hung up in the kitchen, she never used it but if it came off it’s hook we knew we had gone to far when we were little and it was time to behave.
A clear, concise instructional with no technobabble. What a great video! Well done. I have never been able to sharpen knives for want of trying. Once I bought the Lansky system last year that all changed. They are so easy to use. You need the diamond hones to sharpen ceramic blade knives.
Thanks Andrew, I appreciate that. It's a great system, isn't it. Get a diamond hone you can - you can use that every now and then to keep them sharp without having to get the whole kit out. I should probably have used the oil in hindsight but it's so much easier without.
I have used the Lansky Diamond Sharpening System for many years. Quite simply it is the best System available. The only other thing I recommended purchasing is a Leather Strop. Not the small ones but a good Old Fashioned Barbers Leather Strop. It puts a Mirror Finish on your Blades and removes any Micro Burrs to give you a Perfect Finish.
Excellent video! Thank you for your time to created it, really appreciated. I'm going to order one of these now as I'm really struggling with my dulled kitchen knives. Thank you, All the best
I hit a 2nd hand store and bought a thick wooden cutting board and mounted the Lansky to that, works well. The wide drip catch around the board is perfect for holding small files etc.
I have one of those and I do one complete stroke 20 times one side and reverse it on the other side then switch to the medium and so on to the fine. Razor sharp
Nice video! I purchased my first Lansky kit in 1984. Still using it with various upgrades including diamond stones, 1000 & 2000 grit ceramic stones, leather strop “stone”, etc.. I find a dry toothbrush works fine for cleaning the diamond stones. Never use oil. with diamond plates. Of course Arkansas stones & Lansky’s original stones need oil. Ceramic stones should be used dry or with water. The most common stropping error is rolling the edge over. I’m motivated to make a stopping video. Watch for it on my channel in a week or so. I seldom use the leather stop if I finish with the sapphire ceramic stone. Not that you shouldn’t. I just lazy…
Awesome video, I've also struggled with multiple stones and systems. Resorted back to my Boy Scout days and a Washita Stone with honing oil. The Lansky kit and the strapping finish is the perfect solution. I'm ordering today!
Hey Charlie , if you could think of a way to attach a Stropping piece to the underside of a diamond stone that will allow the same angle as the diamond stone hones at , it would complete the set and give the perfect finish to the entire system.
It's a good point but they actually do a stropping stone! The stropping process is so important. I couldn't for the life of me get my carving knife sharp recently, but decided to give it a strop and in moments it was razor sharp. It also works to bring your other knives back up to sharpness even without using a stone first.
Great video. I've used this kit for about 10 years. To the haters, sit down on a cold rainy day and work all stones on your blades. If you don't abuse them you will only need to touch them up with you fine stone in the future. My hunting and fishing knives are are sharp as any I've seen. I do like the Lansky. It's easy.
Thanks Mike - good point. I couldn't agree more, and it's particularly good for restoring a factory edge to old knives that are no longer sharp and have been badly sharpened over the years through various abortive techniques.
Well I’ll be buggered. Just to think, all of these years I have used a thing that I got from the local hardware store for $5 (Aust dollar), we in Australia call it an oil stone. My knifes ar sharp enough to shave with. By the way, a steel is not for sharpening a knife, it’s for honing it.
I coat the entire blade in masking tape so any slips don't result in a scratch in the side of it. I also bought the leather strope for the Lanksy system. Now, not only are my knives razor sharp, they're also at a mirror polish... So satisfying, every time i go to use them i can't help but check out the polished edge 😊😊😊
Having spent several hours using the Lansky diamond system, I'm offering some feedback. It is a delicate tool. Charlie provides a thorough video here. I used vicein my workshop to hold the tool. The jaws' adjustment screws require some usage to find the correct gap to fit knives. A wider jaw width might provide more safety and tightening for the knife. Its important that the rods are in line to the sharpener so as to retain correct sharpening angles. There is a flattened section on the rod to help with thumb screw tightening. When sharpening long knives it is easy to forget where work is finished as one moves along the knife edge. In summary, we are learning as we work. NOW: be selective about the surface on which cutting will take place. From our experience, bamboo, some hard plastics, and very hard wood surfaces, will result in a fast loss of the knife's sharpened edge. I hopet to compromise your video Charlie, but we all need to share thoughts, and ideas, if we want the best results. Rodney Maennling
Thanks Rodney. Good to hear from you and I appreciate the additional comments on the system. It's major down side is the fact that for longer knives unless you've got 2 clamps you have to keep moving the knife in the clamp.
I have 2 sets of the Lansky kits. With base mounts included attached steel work bench. All my knives from hunting, fishing, kitchen and general purpose are all super razor sharp. Lansky sharpening system is easy to use, works super well. Great value for money. Oh don't forget.... use the honing oil provided, helps the hones work better.
Really well done video. Nicely filmed, edited, and narrated. I have this system and you presented it really well. Thank you for sharing. Thumbs up and subscribed.
Thanks Charlie, a well shot and informative video as always. Like the sound of this product. Two quickies: does it sharpen serrated knife blades; and, second, can you do spokeshave blades with it? Thanks, Roddy
I use a piece of wood about an inch wide and 6-12" long with the different sand papers that you like,usually Emery paper for final.works great and is very cheap.you can do more but not really needed for most people
I've been using my Lansky for a few years. Never read the instructions. Never understood why I couldn't get my blades razor sharp (I'm talking hair popping sharp). I finally read them and found out I was doing it wrong. The instructions said to PULL the stone across the blade (not PUSH). As you pull it across the blade, you'll feel (with your fingernail) a wire start to form on the underside of the edge. Once you feel that wire across the entire length of the blade, then you flip it over and pull the stone across the other side of the blade until you feel the wire across the entire length of the edge. When you do, move to the next finer stone and follow the same instructions. Stropping will remove the wire as your final step. If you use the system like that, you'll have an even sharper blade than what you show in the video. Also, your knife in the video was so dull you were able to pick 20° and establish a new bevel. If you have a knife with an established bevel, you need to know what that bevel is. To do that, using a sharpie marker, color the existing bevel the length of the blade. Using your fine stone, draw it across the blade in one small place. If it takes the color off the bevel near the cutting edge but leaves color behind further back, you need to reduce the angle (move down one hole) . And if you're taking color off further back but leaving color at the cutting edge, you need to increase the angle (move up one hole). Hope that helps.
Jeffery Dyer, you went where few men have ever gone before. YOU READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Real men don't do that! I'm glad you did though, and that you commented your findings/tips. They appear to be very concise and extremely useful. Thanks for sharing the knowledge that you have gained. Now, I can achieve professional, razor sharp results AND I still don't have to read the instructions. It's a win-win kind of situation. You learned something and I learned something, we both win. You earned your MAN CARD by sharing your knowledge and and I get to keep my MAN CARD because family, friends and neighbors all bring me their worn out, dull knives to sharpen, all because of your advice. 😀 The Lansky truly is an excellent sharpening tool. Thanks for sharing what you've learned, to all of us know-it-all, hard-headed guys! 👍🇺🇸
Hi Jeffrey, great summary you've written there and you are 100% correct about using the sharpening stone away from the edge and not into it. I learned to sharpen all my chef's knives to a razors edge by hand without a guide as a chef so I feel qualified to comment. And just a further explanatory note on the importance of that wire you succinctly describe on the edge of the blade: done properly there should be the tiniest little foil edge left on the blade when finished with your finest stone. This is where a knife steel comes into it's own. In the same way that after bending a wire coathanger to break it the wire at the break point is thinner than before from being worked and stretched from the bending. That's why when using a traditional steel, *not* a diamond one, you should do the opposite of the stone and alternating sides work lightly into the edge not away, at a minisculely more acute angle to focus on the edge. This will effectively bend that last vestige of foil edge off like the broken coathanger wire (if your really good you'll be left with a 'wire' thinner than a human hair) with an edge on par with a surgeons scalpal!! If you want to get to super expert level you should end up with a cross section of knife edge following the same shape as a cathedral window, slightly rounding up from the shoulder to the point, this has an impact on cutting performance. Sadly this can't be done on a fixed angle sharpener but requires a strop after the finest stone stage or 20 year old apprentice eyes and steady hands. Happy sharpening!!
It's a good video. You don't need to cake the compound onto the stope though. You're also the first person I've ever seen heat the compound like it's a candle :) Just rub it a few times like it's a crayon and colour the strop like you're a 4 year old. Not too much is needed. Or, at least not as much as you used. Clean the blade well after as there might be filings or compound on the blade. Neither of which is good for you. Such a cool experience when you have a sharp blade. I use a ceramic stone for chisels but I'm getting this system for my kitchen knives... You've sold me! Thanks again.
I see a lot of people talking about the oil like using it to clean the stones but you should never put oil on a diamond stone for it will clog the stone taking away it's ability to shapen. Apparently when they are putting the kits together the oil which is used for the other stones is placed in the kit with the clamp and guide rods and then the stones go in the kits after, you would think since the oil isn't needed for the diamond kits they would not ship it but I guess they don't change the line that puts the kits together even though I'm sure it would save them money not shipping something that is not needed
@@738polarbear no, sir, it is you who are wrong. Diamond stones are to be used completely dry....no lubricant whatsoever. ANY oil used on a diamond stone will eventually clog it and render it useless. Use the diamond stone dry, then clean it per manufacturer's instructions.
@@jimw7572 sorry, BS. How exactly is oil going to "clog" a diamond impregnated piece of steel? Lubricant is always good, cleaning is easy. I've had a Lansky diamond sharpening kit for 30 years, the diamond "stones" are as good as new. Always used oil and kept them clean. If anything, a lubricant will keep the tiny particles of steel taken off the knife blade from sticking to the steel. There is more myth and bullshit in the physics of sharpening than just about anything.
Thank you Charlie.I've spent much money and many hours trying to get Razor sharp knives. My Only query is. I remember a really very elderly Barber, many years ago, sharpening his cut-throat razor on a strop, which as I remember was like a wide leather belt attached to his work top, using NO "lubricants" etc.
I think that all the two thousand different methods of sharpening knives on you tube are brilliant. My preference since I am not a butcher or a top end master chef whose presentation of a meal can rely on his knife sharpness and cutting skills is the 5 quid one with the suction cup to hold it steady for a few swipes article but then i'm semi skilled in the kitchen and love to cook and relax mainly relax after a tiring day each to their own I say.
Hello - I don't know if you're still using this sharpening system? (almost 2 years has passed since you posted this). If you are, I hope you _did_ start using the honing oil from the kit? It really _is_ a vital ingredient for sharpening knives (even though some folk state that with diamond stones, you don't really need the oil). But, honing oil helps the stones smooth run along the blade (instead of that horrible dry graunching noise), and also aids keeping the stones pores clean (the oil helps float the stone residue and the metal swarf from the blade to the top, so all you have to do is wipe the stone with a clean cloth). Using dry stones on a dry blade will eventually tear into the stone, to give you a similar wear down as on your cheaper stone you showed at the start. Dry sharpening, to me, is fine if out in the field and all you require is a top-up sharpen. But doing a multi collection in the home will soon render your stones needing replaced. I have been using the _original_ Lanksy 5 stone kit (non diamond) for my skinning and gutting knives for 20 odd years, and am _still_ using the _same_ stones from the original kit! The honing oil has been replaced a few times with Lansky Sharpeners Nathan's honing oil (beware people saying to use baby oil, gun oil, or WD-40 - the oils 'weight' needs to be right so that the oil does not sink into the stone and clog/ruin it, or be too light so that it will just float off). Stropping isn't high on my list of things to do afterwards, even though I have a 90 year old Seal Skin strop that belonged to my Grandfather which produced great results even to this day when used on an open razor. (although a substitute modern strop paste has to be used, as you can't get hold of seal blubber thesedays!)
@@aesaehttr LOL - oh heck no! For me, that's a real _short_ comment. You ought to see one where I waffle bit! If you did, you would need to take a week off work to read it....and then another week off to _recover_ from reading it. All the best. Regards and electronic handshakes. Dawg.
Hi there Digger Dawg, thanks for that - what you say makes perfect sense. There were two reasons I didn't use the oil originally. 1) because I watched another video by someone who seemed pretty authoritative on the Lansky system and he said it wasn't necessary for diamond stones; and 2) this made sense to me because I have a Trend double sided diamond bench stone I sharpen my chisels on, which I use lapping fluid on. There's a lot of conflicting views out there as to whether you should use water or lapping oil on diamond bench stones, and I've found the lapping fluid a bit of a pain to use. It's so much easier to just wash the stone under a tap so I thought, to hell with the oil/ lapping fluid, I'll go with the water method. HOWEVER I've had a ton of comments on this video by people saying, like you did, that I should use the oil, and to be honest if I had followed the damn instructions I would/should have done! So you live and learn - I guess I never imagined the video would get this many views and attention. That's pretty impressive you've had your Lansky kit for so long!! Testament to your skill in using it, and the respect you've got for the kit, I guess. I'm interested to hear you don't strop afterwards. I didn't do it particularly well in the video (as loads of people like to point out 😀) but I did find it made a massive difference to the sharpness of the blade. Nice comment though - thanks for getting involved!
This looks useful for people who like sharpening knives more than they do cooking. I've been using a vee shaped sharpener clamped by suction to the worktop for a few years now. Just give the knife a few swipes before use every now and then. Works fine and cost about £10 from John Lewis. Don't bother with honers unless you're skilled at it, as they are very effective at taking the edge off your knife.
I see what you mean about this. The screw adjusts the angle of the jaws of the clamp to match the angle of the body of the blade. The the red knob clamps the jaws down. Less wiggle in the blade this way.
Your fingers look very close to the knife edge, as the knife gets sharp I imagine you have to concentrate. I like the way all the angles are taken care of for you though! Thanks for the review Charlie! N.
If you keep your grip on the plastic, above the stone part, you're fine. And keep your visual attention on what you're doing. That said, I do like watching TV while I do this but I'm careful and never have had a problem with cutting myself while sharpening.
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Very instructive video thank you. Your not stropping correctly though. I remember my grandad stripping his cutthroat razor on a strap he had hanging on the bathroom door. Long quick strokes flipping it over at the end of the away stroke.
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good job
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
I am 70 now and my dad gave me my first knife when I was 8. He showed me how to sharpen it and that was all the help got. I have used the Lansky for many years now and my chef knives are wicked sharp. My hunting knife boned out two does and would still remove hair. The joy if this is that if you use the same angle you are only taking off enough metal to reset the edge. Its fast and hard to mess up. Works like a hot damn. I got the diamond version and it is old but still works exceptionally well. I cook every day and have a half dozen knives for boning, carving or cutting and they all work so well.
I appreciate the real world feedback! I’m scared to keep buying knife sharpeners, and figure out things as I go by way of my pocketbook!
I used to work in an industry that sold these and bought the diamond set about 15yrs ago. I have been sharpening knives for easily 60yrs. I have water stones, oil stones, diamond plates etc and this is BY FAR the best way. The big upside of this system is that you sharpen on the exact same angle every time and you can lightly touch up or go full bore so you are not taking any more steel off the blade than absolutely necessary. I have been cooking since 1962 and since 70 every day. I have probably $1000 in knives in my kitchen. My knives are wickedly sharp pretty much all the time. This is SOOOOOOO simple to use and if you follow the instructions you simply cannot mess it up. And its fast.
Wow, that's possibly the most comprehensive endorsement I've seen on here. Thanks. I also find a diamond hone used occasionally keeps the knife sharp reducing the need to get this kit out too often.
You’ve done a fantastic job on using this product right out of the box. I’ve use the system for over 30 years. You might tell the users. You’ll only need to use the fine diamonds to touch it up from time to time.Thank you for showing the leather stropping I’ve never used it. But I will get one to try.
Great job on demonstrating this product it’s one of the best I’ve ever used.
Thanks Bill, I appreciate that, and yes I'll pass that on 👍. Out of interest do you use the honing oil, as I attracted some criticism for not using it. Yes the strop is a key step at the end, I feel, to get the knife really sharp.
I've tried a lot of the same knife sharpeners you have. I really like that system! Thanks for pointing out why this one is more convenient. Like only having to flip the blade over rather than taking it out of the clamp and repositioning it. I did finally find a way that works for me though.
One tiny constructive criticism though. When stropping you want to drag the knife edge down the strop long ways. Push the knife away from you. Starting at the heel of the knife, pushing while going out to the tip/toe of the blade. All in one fluid movement. It can take some practice. Go slowly at first if you have to. And count the number of times you sharpen and strop on the first side that you start on. Then flip the blade over and sharpen or strop the same number of times on the second side. You want the two edges the be as even as possible. Never strop by dragging the blade short ways on the strop. You'll just end up cutting the leather of your strop, ruining it and dulling the blade again. Practice makes perfect!!
I was a Barber and used to sharpen my straight razor myself. A lot of other Barbers would buy disposable blades to shave with. It looked like a straight razor except the actual blade was a long razor that slipped inside a groove in what would be the spine of the blade.
I now use a grinding bit on my Dremel and then the buffing pad with compound on it to sharpen really bad knife blades. Then I strop. I'm really good at it too. I can cut news paper with the axe blade of my framing hammer. I just finished refurbishing and polishing it this week. It's so shiny I can apply lipstick in its mirror finish. I find sharpening and polishing knife blades and axes to be very relaxing rewarding. Nothing is more satisfying than pulling a knife out of the block and being able to butterfly a good thick pork chop or a nice filet mignon. Like a hot knife through butter. Lol!
Thanks for the video! You did a fabulous job. And you're cute too!
hey Dawn, my grandmother was a Woodworth, do you happen to know your lineage in America? My gram and her mother were both born in Washington D.C.
I went to a farm sale, and bought an old sandstone whetting grindstone. Heavy and awkward to set up, but once set up, it is brilliant. Sharpens any blade, even axes, in seconds. It is over a hundren years old, and cost me 60 quid, but I don't regret buying it for one second.
You say whetting grindstone.
I the same as a grinding wheel?
What im calling a grinding wheel was about 25 or 30 inch diameter. It had a foot pedal and a seat. At the top of the wheel was a drizzle cup for water.
I ask because my grandad had one from his lumberjack days. It worked very well
I have had similar problems of using these modern tools for sharpening and found them useless over time.
For me, the best sharpening stone has always been the concrete path edge in the garden or the front doorstep. Sharpens knives in seconds. Alternatively, as someone else commented, the old fashioned whet stone with a dash of oil also sharpens knives in seconds. The system your using here is somewhat protracted.
@@Paul-su3qh Really. I use the same stones that I use for chisels and plane blades. I've also used a Tormek which is slow but gives a really smooth finish. In any event, if you practice a few times it's not that difficult. Holding a fixed angle is the issue and practice makes it fairly easy.
@@roccopantaloons9115.. Just bought a Tormek myself. I have only used it for chisels and irons so far, looking forward to sharpening a few knives.
I'm glad to see someone else say this about concrete!! I can get my knives sharper in just a couple of minutes using a good edge of a sidewalk or a stepping stone over any store bought knife sharpener.
Tip, when you’re putting the knife into the clamp make sure the gap between the two half’s of the clamp is even. If it’s not even you’re not at 90 degrees and you’re angles will be off!
It's usually not tho. Blades are beveled and then edge is beveled even more. So if clamps are even its not truly 90° with the blade. If it's clamped the way he did with a triangle in the middle its truly 90° with the blades bevel
Too funny! I just purchased and used the Lansky system yesterday myself and I was amazed at the ease and quickness of sharpening my knives! Cheers mate!
I got one of these years ago. I have $1000 worth of chef knives in my kitchen and Lansky does a quick bang up job. The best part is using it the next time it only dresses the edge in the same place so removal of blade is minimal. Wicked sharp. FYI a steel is NOT to sharpen but straighten the curl that makes a sharp edge duller. The mount is essential and should be part of the kit but would likely make it too expensive. I have water stones, whet stones, diamond stones but this is my go to sharpening system for my expensive Sabatier and Henkel kitchen knives as well as my expensive Cold Steel hunting knives. Im 70 now and this is the BEST sharpening system I have ever used.
As someone who’s only sharpened a knife crudely. This was a great tutorial. No muss or fuss with this kit- Simple!
Thanks Jeff. 👊
I've had this Lansky system for many years, it's good!
Always rinse 'stones' in clean water after final wash, dab them dry, then leave out of the box overnight to fully dry, (yes they will rust)
Ease up on the pressure though Charlie,
Stroke it, don't grind it, (I had to turn the volume down & look away when you were doing that point)
As You said "let the diamonds do the work" ☺ (nice tip about warming the stropping board, I'll try that, Thanks ☺)
I’ve had this system for two years and never took it out of the box! I chanced upon your video tonight, watched it and now I’m compelled to put it to work. Thanks for sharing!
I have used the Lansky system for about 25 years and it is the only thing I use to sharpen all my knives. I like Pilot McBride's idea of using another clamp on longer knives. I started off with the stones and the course ones have developed a curve like you showed in your video. About three years ago I bought the coarse, medium and fine diamond stones and I have really enjoyed using them. I have never tried stropping but I will give that a shot. I will also get the extra coarse diamond stone.
The only thing you don't mention is looking for the little break over bead that forms on the opposite side of the side you're sharpening. This forms when your stone reaches the edge of your blade and actually rolls over a little bit of the blade. You safely can feel this bead by placing your fingers at 90 deg to the blade close to the haft of the blade and pulling them across the edge of the blade and away from the knife. When I feel the slightest formation of the bead over the full length of my knife, I know it's time to move to the next stone.
My knives aren't top quality and so when I sharpen them at 20 deg, they tend to lose their edge rather quickly so I do all mine at 25.
Also, something a friend showed me was to sharpen a knife partially at 17 deg and then finish it off at 25. This give it a double bevel and looks really cool.
Thanks for doing this video. I hope many people will buy the Lansky system and learn to use it!
Hi Tim, thanks for taking the time to write that. All makes sense and the secondary bevel (like you'd do with a chisel or plane) makes resharpening a lot quicker, I guess, and the blade more durable 🤔
This really works, I’ve have one. I bought this sharpening kit 8 years ago and I use it on every knife I own especially on my hunting knives. I bought two more kits for my sons, and they said it was the best thing I ever gave them. 😃
I agree. The best kit out there in terms of value for money, where you want to restore the factory edge to your knives. It's not perfect - the clamp isn't great and having to reclamp it for longer knives, but still.
Just bought the same set today. Your video helped me confirm I am now doing it right. I don't think I was at first, thinking I needed to keep the rod positioned in one rounded corner or the other as I sharpened, rather than the way you did it and just went around the blade keeping the rod up in the notch for a consistent proper angle. My instructions say to keep holding device at an angle, like you had it, or level front to back. Thanks for the video. I bought a bottle of oil that I didn't need that I'll take back tomorrow.
I've used the Lansky for years, it really is the best for controlling the angle. I like the mounts - haven't seen those before. You always learn something !! Give this system a try !!!
Excellent vid Charlie. I just received my Lansky set. I also have limited success with at least 6 sharpening systems. I still wasn't getting "perfect" results with my new Lansky system . . . until I watched your video! I was setting it up improperly and using the wrong sliding motion. Your results are now achievable. THANKS for taking the time to make this video.
You're very welcome - thanks for letting me know. Maybe use the oil though too, I didn't because I find honing oils quite messy but as the manufacturer recommendeds it, we should probably use it. 👍 Also get a decent diamond hone so that you can quickly resharpen the knife every now and then rather than having to get the kit out each time.
Absolutely worth every cent I paid for the kit. I've been using mine for 20 years now and I can't even see wear on the stones. Literally takes me just minutes to transform a blade. Not once did I cut myself whilst using it.
Another great video. Straight to the point and answered all the questions I had. I bought the kit and couldn't be happier. Your honest reviews have earned my confidence. Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much for that. Really chuffed you've found it as useful as I did. It's worth getting a good diamond hone too. That way you can quickly get the knife super sharp again, as and when it dulls, in between sharpening it with the Lansky kit. 👊
I really appreciate this video. I have had one of these kits of over 30 yrs, and I never understood how it worked!!! Mine has 5 stones for some reason. It has extra fine stone. Thanks again!
You're welcome Jack. It's a bit of a faff but a great way to get a factory edge and then you can keep the knives sharp with an occasional hone with a steel.
I 'knew" how to properly sharpen a knife but my hands would not let me be good at it. The Lansky Sharpener system is the best! I have used it to clean up poorly sharpened knives whether our kitchen cutlery, my pocket knife, my work knife, or hunting knives.
If you were going to set arbitrary angles to your knives, why wouldn't you just get an electric grinder with a vice, angle guide, and a few different sandpaper grits? Would've cost about the same, save a tonne of time, and the grinder could fix chips too unlike this.
The reason I bought the Lansky kit was my lack of experience and confidence using a plain honing stone and fear of not keeping the proper angle on the blade. This kit makes for an easy process of maintaining the degree of angle consistent. I've used this kit for a number of years and highly recommend it for anyone lacking experience sharpening their knives.
You still recommend it?
@@keng3510 Yes, still do. Easy application and confidence I’m keeping the proper, consistent angle.
Quite a well-made video. In order to dispel all the rigmarole around the aura of sharpening, you have to understand the one basic fact: the cutting edge is simply two surfaces on an incline that meet at infinity (sorry, no epsilon on my keyboard). Where they meet is the famous razor's edge.I'm not a 100% convinced by your product, but it's quite satisfactory. The hundred quid mark is pretty dear, but there you go. With the strop, I recommend you use a little less honing paste. The colours are codes for the polishing trade. Red is for steel and brass, blue or grey is for aluminium, and white (not shown) is for ivory and sundry. I recommend you use only the red. Less quantity, and PULL strokes only. It's also better if you can cramp down the strop ; less "mucking around" and more "directed energy". The problem with the honing technique is that it tends to "round off" the cutting edge- which for all purposes, should be dead flat (which you were able to obtain very satisfactorily). The Japanese cooks sharpen their own knives to a terrifically razor-sharp edge, by very large stones only- absolutely NO stropping. Water stones are the best. But I'm going off on a tangent. I was a cabinet maker for nearly thirty five years, and I'm nuts about getting the sharpest edge possible. The finest water stone is about 18,000 grit. You need to use it only on Japanese knives and tools. Cheers. P.S. If you DO insist on a strop, you should use very hard leather with as little "fluff" as possible- it should have no bounce to it at all. Roger and out.
Yep, all that makes perfect sense - thanks for taking so much time to share your wisdom with us all!
@@CharlieDIYte My pleasure. Hope I wasn't too profuse ! Actually my personal test for sharpness is simply a tomato ; the knife should slice the skin about half way through the full stroke, without applying any pressure. A sharp tool is always a joy to use. Thanks for your reply. I enjoyed your video nonetheless - you put things very clearly and have a good sense of logic. All the best.
@@musamor75 yes...I second the tomato test.
My test is seeing if I can shave layers off of a scrap of paper or a business card. At that point the knife is sharp enough for my purposes but mine are more utility and less for soft food. Your mileage may vary. Sometimes this has revealed parts of the blade that are not as sharp as others and need more attention.
Had mine for a few days and love it.
I'm pretty sure I read to use that oil that came with mine but mine isn't the diamond set but a down grade set but still love it.
If that knife is never aimed at you you will never be cut.
This is helpful and I do love the sharpening kit, Thanks
Well done John. It's awesome for restoring a factory edge isn't it. Yes do use the oil and I should probably have used it with mine too. 👍
It’s a granite countertop and is basically indestructible. I have been terrorizing mine for 25+ years and it’s just as beautiful as day one. It will quickly dull your knives and I have been using mine to cut on for all these years. I finally invested in a wonderful set of knives so now am investing in the sharpening system. I even stand on my countertop to access my tallest cabinets. But I am also an experienced builder and use full 5/8” plywood under my granite slabs with a 2” miter edge that makes the granite look a full 2” thick slab. It make for a bulletproof countertop 😊
If I used the kitchen counter for a workbench, my wife would be the first user of the sharpened knife.
Considerate of her to wait that long. Not sure mine would lol
😂😂😂
@@michaelsorensen7567 pool pool l
Yeah. That and putting no less than four diamond stones abrasive side down on a sealed granite countertop. 😂
🤣🤣🤣👍
Yes, the Lansky 5 Stone Pro System is a great investment to sharpen your knifes, been using mine since 1987. But mine are made out of 5 different stones. Great job.
He has the diamond stone set which comes with for stones. U got the deluxe with 5stones. (Just not diamond). Diamond stones are needed for extremly hard steels (not kitchen knifes etc)
I've had the Lansky for a few years and it's terrific. One of the stones broke and they replaced it right away. Good outfit. Great tool
It's fantastic at restoring the factory edge on a damaged blade. Just wish it was a bit more versatile for longer knives.
John Gullotti .
@@CharlieDIYte FYI: you can't reprofile with the ceramic stones! I tried with the 80 grit ceramic stone for an hour. Nothing!
@@CharlieDIYte just tape a coat hanger to the end of the rod so it will reach to the end of your full size chef knife! I doubt it would work any worse than it already does!
@@easyki84 yes you can.
This is the best lansky sharpener video hands down , the rest I watched all sped through the process so you couldn’t see a technique or hear the sound it makes …thank you 100x’s for making this video I felt like I wasted another $100 until watching this and going back and trying again..I’ve got $100’s all of dollars in sharpeners from work sharp to actual knife making belt grinders with belts from 90 grit to 10,000 grit and the always ruined my tip or kept it untouched and I never had a consistent bevel from choir to tip …now I do..adding the others to get a mirror polish will now be deadly sharp .
Thanks buddy. I should probably have recommended using the oil - maybe try it and see if it gives you a better result. Apparently lifts the metal filings off the stones better. More messy though and harder to clean the stones.
I watched this video while sharpening my beloved kitchen knife on a two-sided water stone. I them got it to the superfine grit using a piece of fine sandpaper, then stropped it with my leather belt. All told it maybe cost me no more than 30 dollars for a permanent setup that will last forever and ever (except the sandpaper, a sheet of which will last a year.)
Nice work. I've got to say, I've found a super easy method recently - using the diamond file on my Leatherman multi tool and then the back of my belt. Takes less than a minute to quickly get my knives sharp again. The Lansky is a great system for restoring the factory edge though, then you can keep them sharp whichever way you choose.
@@CharlieDIYte the victorinox is much better than the leatherman any day of the week. I used to have one but someone who wanted it far more than I broke into my car and stole it. Now I am on a disability pension and could never afford to get another one without taking a hit somewhere else in my life so I settled for a leatherman...:(
I have a Lansky (Pro) system and love it. After using traditional whet stones and diamond stones for tools and knives for years this system beats them all for simplicity and consistent results.
I'd suggest that putting some electrical tape in the jaws of the clamp will prevent the knife spine being scratched, and instead of swapping to a leather strop to hone to a 'razor' finish, use a Lansky ultra fine or Sapphire stone, this keep you on the same constant angle system and costs £20, no need for compound either!
(You could strop after that too if you actually wanted to shave with your kitchen knives) but don't bother with the compound, barbers never did!
If this system beats traditional wet stone, then you don't really know how to use wet stone. In general you need only one wet stone with 1000 grid,
I have been using Lansky for years, started when in the Navy and still have one. This is the best and easiest to use. I use it without a clamp and have had no issues.
Hands down the Lansky Diamond kit is freaking awesome ! I’ve used my for literally years now and I’ve never had a stand /clamp so totally up to you ! As long as your guide rods are level to stone as mentioned then you are golden ! Incorporate a tiny bit of water and keep stones clean then you’ll be rockin crazy sharp knives ! Be careful !
Cheers Rob. Yes for the money it's the best kit out there. A lot of people said I should have used the oil but my experience with lapping oil with my diamond stone for sharpening chisels etc is it's messy stuff so using water seemed like the best idea. 👍
I don’t even know why they put the bottle of oil in the Diamond kit ! If memory serves me it seems like the instructions said to not use oil on diamond stones ! I use water a touch of dishsoap and a toothbrush to clean my stones and have had excellent results !
Got the same kit for Christmas back in 1988, yup, 1988. Lost it in the Navy mid-90's and bought another sometime in the early 2000's. I only use it on my high end knives 2-3 times a year to keep the right edge and then use a cheap sharpener in-between.
Built an oak table top mount for this exact kit. Pull it out a couple times a year. Works very well. Stropping is for the overly concerned. For cooking purposes, the Lansky is more than sufficient in itself. Very helpful, cheers from Canada where we brutalize our knives on wild game.
yeah, you know your stuff
Great video. I too have been using this system and find it so easy to get razor sharp knifes. I do recommend adding to your arsenal the Ultra Fine Hone (yellow1000grit) followed by the Super Sapphire Hone (blue 2000grit). Really makes it scary sharp.
There is also the Leather Stropping Hone but you have this part covered already....
From What I have read, the honing oil is actually used for cleaning the two hones I mentioned above and not for using while honing the blade.. Honing the blade is done dry.
Apparently a couple of drops of oil rubbed into the hone lifts the metal particles out of the hone surface....
Also wedging your left fore finger, as you're right handed, behind the clamp keeps the guide rod steadier. More consistent strokes. But makes your finger black...lol. So I use some scrap leather wrapped around my finder as a large plaster for the guide rod to run against....
Hi mate, thanks so much for such a long comprehensive comment - really appreciate that! Great info and I'll definitely add those stones to my arsenal. Also tempted with the leather stropping hone as it's got to be more consistent than stropping by hand, hasn't it? Thanks also for solving the mystery about the oil! Cheers, Charlie
Wasted - agen the oil is not for cleaning the stones, it's for the other kits that don't have the diamond stones and since lansky puts it in those kits they also put in the diamond stone kits at the factory, this is what lansky has said about it. Cleaning of the stones should just be done with warm soapy water because oil will clog the diamond stones
@@shnozzsauges Wouldn't the soap and water in conjunction with the toothbrush remove the oil & shavings?
@@shnozzsauges- The idea of using oil keeps the stones from getting clogged, even diamond stones, though oil has to be applied frequently.
I have used this system for 5 years now. Here are my two tips: tilt the unit towards you when sharpening. You will be able to keep it much more stable that way. The 2nd is to mark the sharp part of the blade with a Sharpie and you can watch exactly where the stone is removing steel. I sharpened my brother in laws pocket knife and he said it was too sharp!
sharpie. Great tip. I'll try it 😀
I just bought the Lansky system for sharpening a whole array of cutting implements but my dad had the same system when I was a kid, so I have some familiarity. Compared to what I was quoted by a professional, the system will pay for itself after only one round of sharpening my kitchen knives, pocket knives, and hatchet. Plus there is a certain amount of satisfaction in doing this kind of thing yourself.
Couldn't agree more Steve - smart move. Also, once you've restored the factory edge on your knives with the Lansky you can quickly get them back to full sharpness every now and then with a quick run across the strop, without having to get the whole kit out again.
Very pro shot , ledgable informative,down the middle & centered . Trued & tried . it's a winner for anyone & everyone!!!!
When I finish sanded wood projects I noticed as I progressed through the different grits that the resistance started out higher and gradually got much easier. Even if I used a fresh piece it would remain easier. Upon changing to a finer grit it again had more resistance. My theory was after sanding awhile it had removed the coarser depressions so it could no longer fall into them and create the same resistance. I think that’s what happened with your coarse stone. It’s been my experience that coarse grits are less likely to load up prematurely. I just think the easier/lighter drag is an indicator it’s time to switch to a finer grit. Hope this smooths out the variables for a few issues. And also if you look down upon the edge of a blade with a light source in front of you and you see reflected light it’s dull and it needs sharpened. A sharp edge reflects no light to you. I might be stating the obvious for some but those who haven’t much experience might not have picked up on this yet.
I actually followed this method and it works perfectly, I tested the sharpness of the blade by shaving my wife's back!
I thought it was just me.
Good on ya, mate
That is not a good test as the hair on their back is really stiff. The hair on my wifes face is a lot finer.
Now if you can just teach her to walk backwards.
Tried to think of something clever to say but they’re all taken.
Really, really great video. I used the Lansky Controlled Angle Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System for years, replacing the Extra-Coarse hone with the Ultra-Fine hone. But when got into my 60's with shoulder and elbow problems I bought the 4-Stone Deluxe Diamond Controlled-Angle Sharpening System. It is worth every penny (I live in the USA). I would recommend to anybody considering a Lansky Controlled Angle Sharpening System to buy the Diamond hone version even though it IS more expensive initially. The time and effort you save will make up for the price difference. I would also recommend buying the Medium Serrated Hone, Part #: LSMRT, which is a triangular shaped Medium Grit (600) Ceramic Hone . There is a similar Fine Serrated Hone which is a Fine Grit (1000) Ceramic Hone, Part #: LSERT
but I cannot recommend buying it. The 600 grit is good enough on the front side if you get down to the Fine Diamond on the straight (backside).
I did learn some new things from your video. Using Insulating (Electrical) tape under the top part of the C-clamp. I have been using either small pieces of Plexiglas, 1/8" hobby plywood or 1/8"Masonite board to protect the the top and bottom of my hardwood dining table, my MDF with Formica overlay breakfast table or my stone (granite) counter. However, I may still use a small piece of Plexiglas or 1/8" hobby plywood or 1/8" Masonite board to protect the the bottom of my stone (granite) counter. But the biggest takeaway was using the front screw as the clamping screw. I have been using the back screw, the one with the big knob on it to tighten the clamp. But your method of tightening the front screw with a driver seemed to work so much better. Thanks for coming up with that!. I was also amazed that you did all of the sharpening strokes on one side of the knife before flipping it over and getting a Great Edge! I have been doing 20 strokes on each side twice, then 10 strokes on each side, then 5 strokes on each side, then a couple of strokes on each side plus some single sided strokes to get rid of the wire edge before moving on to the next stone.
I do agree with your process of going from the coarsest grit to the finest grit when setting a new edge. That is the only thing you can do to get your desired edge on an old knife. Wipe out the old angle, whatever it is,by setting the new angle with the coarsest hone you have. No matter how many strokes it takes.
I recently bought one of these systems. They are good. They do take a little getting used to. I couldn’t justify the cost of the “Wicked Edge” system at £350. But, I bought the Diamond version & the clamp. (The clamp is really worth it)
I’ve been trying to sharpen a knife a day as re profiling a knifes edge to 20 degrees angle takes some time. Up to an hour in my case. I think I have loads of room for improvement as well.
Definitely an investment. Think of it as getting to know something really well, it takes time, but your friendship will be worth it.
I would say get the diamond because it saves all the fuss of oils. You just brush the surface of the bones with a little hot soapy water, dry off and it good as new.
Have been using Lansky for many years, tried and true. The only thing I had to do a couple of time, but you have to remember this is after 5 years of sharpening, is to replace a stone where the top of the plastic where the hole is broke out, and it was just a matter of a small amount of money to replace it. Pressure, as you know gets put on that area when your pressing the stone on to the blade edge, but in a light manner. They also now have an ultra fine yellow plastic diamond stone that works great for getting that fold over steel or burrs off.
Thanks Jerry - great info!
You have to take pride sharpening a knife. It does take time but when you get that first razor sharp kitchen knife that you sharpened it is an accomplishment
Great video. My barber in my childhood had leather strops hanging from the bench beside each chair. He'd pull it tight and after half a dozen quick strokes of his razor set about older customers' hairy stubble with great alacrity and finesse. I don't recall ever seeing any blood - until I saw Sweeney Todd at the theatre.
Thanks Peter! Yes indeed and I've taken to using the strop more and more. I couldn't get my carving knife sharp enough even with these stones (doesn't help they're really designed for shorter knives) but a quick strop and miraculously it was razor sharp. I also use the strop to quickly bring my knives back up to sharpness without having to go back to the stones - although various comments have pointed out I'm not stropping in quite the right way! 🙄
Great stuff Charlie....... Been using Lansky for a few years now, stones not diamond. Stones are still in top condition.
You said you have a problem moving the clamp when doing a large knife, well, here's the solution to that. Buy another clamp and mount 2 clamps on the blade. It will take a few minutes to work out just where they need to be mounted, but trust me (famous last words), it is easy to master. I have 6 clamps and mount them on sword blades, generally 6 - 10" apart depending on the blade profile & length. Relocating the spine (guide) from clamp to clamp takes a bit of practice, but after a while, easy as........... All in a day's work, lol.
Never seen the need to strop, just fine pressure using the Sapphire stone will polish the edge perfectly.
My wife is absolutely terrible with her kitchen knives. Think of the worst knife abuser you know and triple it (at least), lmao. After a few years of constantly sharpening her knives, I gave up and use Lansky's hand sharpener then give them a workout on the steel. Saves a lot of time and heartbreak, lol. My kitchen knives are hidden away, lol, and don't need the sharpening her knives demand. My bush knives are keen and only need a touchup now and then
I learned to use the Whetstone sharpening well over 50 years ago and now only use them to sharpen my axes, hatchets and splitters, even got an old ironstone polisher.
Cheers from down under ol' mate 😉
🇦🇺 🍺🍺
Pilot McBride /*5
Pilot McBride b nj
Pilot McBride t
Great suggestion, Pilot! Thanks for your advise.
Solid advice. Ta!
You have impressed me. You are such a novice and, because of this, you relate well with your viewers! A jewel in the crown!
Had one for years and you are absolutely correct, it is the best sharpening system on the market.
Thanks James. 👍
Found this strangely satisfying to watch. I can’t cook & I don’t own a knife set but I still watched the full thing 😂
Strange alright don't cook don't have knives! I'll say no more.
Me too tho I do cook. Funny how some vids grab your attention. I watched one on how to rake leaves efficiently - and my back yard is paved! ua-cam.com/video/XnkktN3FvAg/v-deo.html
If it didn't make you want to run out and buy a set of old, dull kitchen knives and the Lansky kit, then you're no MAN at all. It should have flung a craving on you to buy it and try it. Give me your MAN CARD, right now!🇺🇸
Edward L Tapper Sorry... I have that thing called a wife. I’ll leave the cooking for her (and you) 🇨🇦
@@JamesGoldenboy Sorry, didn't mean to hurt you feeling. My wife and I both cook. I was on my own at 17 years of age. I knew how to cook, clean, sew, wash laundry, change a car/truck tire, charge and/or replace a car/truck battery, replace an alternator, change spark plugs, spark plugs wires, distributor cap and points. Then by around age 20, I was mastering the outdoor barbeque grill and a wood smoker for smoking meats. I eventually learned how to do plumbing, electrical, drywall, roofing and framing while working for a general building contractor. Spent 6 years in the US Army as a mechanic and 13 years as an Over-the-road Trucker, covering 48 States and 7 Canadian Provinces. Now, at age 51, I'm a pretty well-rounded man. I'm sorry your lacking manly skills.
Thanks for posting this Charlie, when you got to the stropping it immediately brought back memories from many years ago when my woodwork teacher was teaching us how to sharpen standard wood chisels. After we had mastered the primary and secondary angles - he then showed us how to strop it on the palm of his hand! 😳😳👀 This was back in the sixties before elf and safety became an occupation.😂 Anyway we all survived, I still do it - but would not attempt with a kitchen knife.😂
Thanks Norman. Yes, a couple of carpenters I work with still do that with their chisels!! The same technique probably works well with a piece of leather, rather than your hand! Thinking about it, it would have been a whole lot easier if I had bought one of these goo.gl/vf66pZ!
Charlie DIYte Or one of these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fashion-Straight-Razor-Wide-sharpening-Tool-Leather-Strop-for-Home-Barbers/282041064064?epid=870619175&hash=item41aaf51a80:g:K6QAAOSwWHBaQEGE
The bottom of a ceramic cup/mug or jeans are good too.
Now you have ground your 'edge' on the Lansky, NOW you can use your sharpening steel to keep it sharp. The steel isn't designed to remove metal, it is used to realign the finest part of the blade edge that will 'roll' over through use, Steels are used every few times you use your knife. When you cant get the edge back, then fine grind or hone.
Old post but, I used the lansky for many many years. One of the best. I live in the US. If you have serrated knives it works as well. You can sharpen anything with the right shape stones or diamond rods. I finish my knives with porcelain.
Thanks Joe and good tip with the porcelain - I think I should do that!
@@CharlieDIYte Properly done, finishing with a porcelain stone, a knife will cut a tomato just under it's own weight / drop the tomato on the knife and it will cut through. Many years of outdoor life. Hunting fishing and growing gardens
I have been looking for a way to sharpen my knives. This is the first one that makes sense. Thank you!
Thanks Andrew. It's the best value for money out there for what it does. Just make sure you use the oil with it, as a lot of people told me I should have done so. You live and learn!
@@CharlieDIYte oil is fine, long as it is a type that doesn't harden, because diamond abrasives aren't porous the oil kinda loses its benefit and water really does just as well anyways just is cleaner and cheaper is all.. lots of people like krudkutter or Windex.. I've never used them though. Water will do it for diamond, it's all I use and my knives are great. After a ceramic rod honing, a leather/and or denim will really refine that finish.
Love the lansky tho I do prefer free hand. I the edge on the tip with a lansky looks a little off but a great system that I would also definitely recommend
Holy compound Batman! 🤣😂🤣
I get it though. Ive done plenty of things for the first time. What's learning without feeling like an idiot a few times 🤷♂️
You've never heard of stropping? Wow, the barbers used to strop their razors in the speed of light and you got a shave as close as it comes.
My grandad used a straight razor and before he shaved he stroked it across a leather strop that hung from the bathroom door. The strop had a secondary use as a tool to keep little boys in line.
@@gaptoothkid3501 Exactly. My Grandpa had one too. Grandma always used it as a threat. I never saw it used by her but I was never going to take that chance...
My mother had a strop hung up in the kitchen, she never used it but if it came off it’s hook we knew we had gone to far when we were little and it was time to behave.
A clear, concise instructional with no technobabble. What a great video! Well done.
I have never been able to sharpen knives for want of trying. Once I bought the Lansky system last year that all changed. They are so easy to use. You need the diamond hones to sharpen ceramic blade knives.
Thanks Andrew, I appreciate that. It's a great system, isn't it. Get a diamond hone you can - you can use that every now and then to keep them sharp without having to get the whole kit out. I should probably have used the oil in hindsight but it's so much easier without.
I have used the Lansky Diamond Sharpening System for many years. Quite simply it is the best System available. The only other thing I recommended purchasing is a Leather Strop. Not the small ones but a good Old Fashioned Barbers Leather Strop. It puts a Mirror Finish on your Blades and removes any Micro Burrs to give you a Perfect Finish.
Excellent video!
Thank you for your time to created it, really appreciated.
I'm going to order one of these now as I'm really struggling with my dulled kitchen knives.
Thank you,
All the best
I've been looking at this system for some time and after watching this I will be getting a Lansky system. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment!
Go for it, I bought one and our knives are now so sharp!
I hit a 2nd hand store and bought a thick wooden cutting board and mounted the Lansky to that, works well. The wide drip catch around the board is perfect for holding small files etc.
I just use a vise bench. Works great for me
I have one of those and I do one complete stroke 20 times one side and reverse it on the other side then switch to the medium and so on to the fine. Razor sharp
Nice video! I purchased my first Lansky kit in 1984. Still using it with various upgrades including diamond stones, 1000 & 2000 grit ceramic stones, leather strop “stone”, etc.. I find a dry toothbrush works fine for cleaning the diamond stones. Never use oil.
with diamond plates. Of course Arkansas stones & Lansky’s original stones need oil. Ceramic stones should be used dry or with water. The most common stropping error is rolling the edge over. I’m motivated to make a stopping video. Watch for it on my channel in a week or so. I seldom use the leather stop if I finish with the sapphire ceramic stone. Not that you shouldn’t. I just lazy…
Been using this system since about 84, best piece of kit on the market.
How long did the initial stones last?
Awesome video, I've also struggled with multiple stones and systems. Resorted back to my Boy Scout days and a Washita Stone with honing oil. The Lansky kit and the strapping finish is the perfect solution. I'm ordering today!
Ditto. My scouting days are as far as knife sharpening has taken me!
Don't forget the #1 rule of sharpening a knife---- DON'T LET IT GET DULL AGAIN.
Hey Charlie , if you could think of a way to attach a Stropping piece to the underside of a diamond stone that will allow the same angle as the diamond stone hones at , it would complete the set and give the perfect finish to the entire system.
It's a good point but they actually do a stropping stone! The stropping process is so important. I couldn't for the life of me get my carving knife sharp recently, but decided to give it a strop and in moments it was razor sharp. It also works to bring your other knives back up to sharpness even without using a stone first.
Great video. I've used this kit for about 10 years. To the haters, sit down on a cold rainy day and work all stones on your blades. If you don't abuse them you will only need to touch them up with you fine stone in the future. My hunting and fishing knives are are sharp as any I've seen. I do like the Lansky. It's easy.
Thanks Mike - good point. I couldn't agree more, and it's particularly good for restoring a factory edge to old knives that are no longer sharp and have been badly sharpened over the years through various abortive techniques.
Charlie- First time on your sight and I wanted to say that you do an excellent job of explaining. I am happy for your success on UA-cam.
Well I’ll be buggered.
Just to think, all of these years I have used a thing that I got from the local hardware store for $5 (Aust dollar), we in Australia call it an oil stone.
My knifes ar sharp enough to shave with.
By the way, a steel is not for sharpening a knife, it’s for honing it.
I put masking tape between the clamp and knife to eliminate blade movement
I coat the entire blade in masking tape so any slips don't result in a scratch in the side of it. I also bought the leather strope for the Lanksy system. Now, not only are my knives razor sharp, they're also at a mirror polish... So satisfying, every time i go to use them i can't help but check out the polished edge 😊😊😊
Having spent several hours using the Lansky diamond system, I'm offering some feedback.
It is a delicate tool. Charlie provides a thorough video here.
I used vicein my workshop to hold the tool. The jaws' adjustment screws require some usage to find the correct gap to fit knives.
A wider jaw width might provide more safety and tightening for the knife. Its important that the rods are in line to the sharpener so as to retain correct sharpening angles.
There is a flattened section on the rod to help with thumb screw tightening. When sharpening long knives it is easy to forget where work is finished as one moves along the knife edge.
In summary, we are learning as we work.
NOW: be selective about the surface on which cutting will take place. From our experience, bamboo, some hard plastics, and very hard wood surfaces, will result in a fast loss of the knife's sharpened edge.
I hopet to compromise your video Charlie, but we all need to share thoughts, and ideas, if we want the best results.
Rodney Maennling
Thanks Rodney. Good to hear from you and I appreciate the additional comments on the system. It's major down side is the fact that for longer knives unless you've got 2 clamps you have to keep moving the knife in the clamp.
I have 2 sets of the Lansky kits. With base mounts included attached steel work bench. All my knives from hunting, fishing, kitchen and general purpose are all super razor sharp. Lansky sharpening system is easy to use, works super well. Great value for money. Oh don't forget.... use the honing oil provided, helps the hones work better.
one of the better videos on sharpening and lansky seems to be universally top quality.
Really well done video. Nicely filmed, edited, and narrated. I have this system and you presented it really well. Thank you for sharing. Thumbs up and subscribed.
I bought a Landry knife sharpeners 30 years ago and love it still using it today
Likewise and 37 years for me.It takes time but only me use my knives...
Thanks Charlie, a well shot and informative video as always. Like the sound of this product. Two quickies: does it sharpen serrated knife blades; and, second, can you do spokeshave blades with it? Thanks,
Roddy
I use a piece of wood about an inch wide and 6-12" long with the different sand papers that you like,usually Emery paper for final.works great and is very cheap.you can do more but not really needed for most people
I've used a Lansky sharpener for close to 30 years, can't beat it.
I've been using my Lansky for a few years. Never read the instructions. Never understood why I couldn't get my blades razor sharp (I'm talking hair popping sharp). I finally read them and found out I was doing it wrong. The instructions said to PULL the stone across the blade (not PUSH). As you pull it across the blade, you'll feel (with your fingernail) a wire start to form on the underside of the edge. Once you feel that wire across the entire length of the blade, then you flip it over and pull the stone across the other side of the blade until you feel the wire across the entire length of the edge. When you do, move to the next finer stone and follow the same instructions. Stropping will remove the wire as your final step. If you use the system like that, you'll have an even sharper blade than what you show in the video.
Also, your knife in the video was so dull you were able to pick 20° and establish a new bevel. If you have a knife with an established bevel, you need to know what that bevel is. To do that, using a sharpie marker, color the existing bevel the length of the blade. Using your fine stone, draw it across the blade in one small place. If it takes the color off the bevel near the cutting edge but leaves color behind further back, you need to reduce the angle (move down one hole) . And if you're taking color off further back but leaving color at the cutting edge, you need to increase the angle (move up one hole).
Hope that helps.
Very helpful and concise comments; many thanks!
Wrong you push into the blade as he is you pull when stroping
Great tips! Thank you
Jeffery Dyer, you went where few men have ever gone before. YOU READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Real men don't do that! I'm glad you did though, and that you commented your findings/tips. They appear to be very concise and extremely useful. Thanks for sharing the knowledge that you have gained. Now, I can achieve professional, razor sharp results AND I still don't have to read the instructions. It's a win-win kind of situation. You learned something and I learned something, we both win. You earned your MAN CARD by sharing your knowledge and and I get to keep my MAN CARD because family, friends and neighbors all bring me their worn out, dull knives to sharpen, all because of your advice. 😀 The Lansky truly is an excellent sharpening tool. Thanks for sharing what you've learned, to all of us know-it-all, hard-headed guys! 👍🇺🇸
Hi Jeffrey, great summary you've written there and you are 100% correct about using the sharpening stone away from the edge and not into it. I learned to sharpen all my chef's knives to a razors edge by hand without a guide as a chef so I feel qualified to comment. And just a further explanatory note on the importance of that wire you succinctly describe on the edge of the blade: done properly there should be the tiniest little foil edge left on the blade when finished with your finest stone. This is where a knife steel comes into it's own. In the same way that after bending a wire coathanger to break it the wire at the break point is thinner than before from being worked and stretched from the bending. That's why when using a traditional steel, *not* a diamond one, you should do the opposite of the stone and alternating sides work lightly into the edge not away, at a minisculely more acute angle to focus on the edge. This will effectively bend that last vestige of foil edge off like the broken coathanger wire (if your really good you'll be left with a 'wire' thinner than a human hair) with an edge on par with a surgeons scalpal!! If you want to get to super expert level you should end up with a cross section of knife edge following the same shape as a cathedral window, slightly rounding up from the shoulder to the point, this has an impact on cutting performance. Sadly this can't be done on a fixed angle sharpener but requires a strop after the finest stone stage or 20 year old apprentice eyes and steady hands. Happy sharpening!!
The honing oil helps stop clogging of the stones. Been using one for years. Sharpen 30 knives a year for friends. Works perfect.
D Gamble . Lansky themselves say it mustn’t be used with diamonds though. But they still put it in every diamond set.
When sharpening a knife you start on bottom and in one fluid motion move to the top of the blade doing a sawing mochion can leave divots in the blade
I was hurting inside as he was doing that.
Just sharpened today my first knife to razor capabilities and I'm really in sync with your excitement :)
It's brilliant, isn't it!
It's a good video. You don't need to cake the compound onto the stope though. You're also the first person I've ever seen heat the compound like it's a candle :) Just rub it a few times like it's a crayon and colour the strop like you're a 4 year old. Not too much is needed. Or, at least not as much as you used. Clean the blade well after as there might be filings or compound on the blade. Neither of which is good for you. Such a cool experience when you have a sharp blade. I use a ceramic stone for chisels but I'm getting this system for my kitchen knives... You've sold me! Thanks again.
Use the Big Red Knob, not a screw driver. That is what is for. It ll go a lot better.
I've had one of these kits for years. It works very well. I'm due to sit down and sharpen all the knives soon.
I see a lot of people talking about the oil like using it to clean the stones but you should never put oil on a diamond stone for it will clog the stone taking away it's ability to shapen. Apparently when they are putting the kits together the oil which is used for the other stones is placed in the kit with the clamp and guide rods and then the stones go in the kits after, you would think since the oil isn't needed for the diamond kits they would not ship it but I guess they don't change the line that puts the kits together even though I'm sure it would save them money not shipping something that is not needed
Oil does NOT clog diamond IF it is light enough .e.g. Kerosene . You are wrong.
@@738polarbear no, sir, it is you who are wrong. Diamond stones are to be used completely dry....no lubricant whatsoever. ANY oil used on a diamond stone will eventually clog it and render it useless. Use the diamond stone dry, then clean it per manufacturer's instructions.
@@jimw7572 sorry, BS. How exactly is oil going to "clog" a diamond impregnated piece of steel? Lubricant is always good, cleaning is easy. I've had a Lansky diamond sharpening kit for 30 years, the diamond "stones" are as good as new. Always used oil and kept them clean. If anything, a lubricant will keep the tiny particles of steel taken off the knife blade from sticking to the steel. There is more myth and bullshit in the physics of sharpening than just about anything.
Oil doesnt clog the lansky diamond stones.
Thank you Charlie.I've spent much money and many hours trying to get Razor sharp knives. My Only query is. I remember a really very elderly Barber, many years ago, sharpening his cut-throat razor on a strop, which as I remember was like a wide leather belt attached to his work top, using NO "lubricants" etc.
I think that all the two thousand different methods of sharpening knives on you tube are brilliant. My preference since I am not a butcher or a top end master chef whose presentation of a meal can rely on his knife sharpness and cutting skills is the 5 quid one with the suction cup to hold it steady for a few swipes article but then i'm semi skilled in the kitchen and love to cook and relax mainly relax after a tiring day each to their own I say.
The trouble with those Laurence is they take so much metal off the knife they quickly destroy it.
@@CharlieDIYte Well then I must be so lucky with my cheap easy to use choice 🙂.
This is a scaled down version of the wicked edge system, which is far more expensive, no movement and no flipping blade over.
I really enjoy your presentation skills. You were clear and logical.
Hello - I don't know if you're still using this sharpening system? (almost 2 years has passed since you posted this). If you are, I hope you _did_ start using the honing oil from the kit? It really _is_ a vital ingredient for sharpening knives (even though some folk state that with diamond stones, you don't really need the oil). But, honing oil helps the stones smooth run along the blade (instead of that horrible dry graunching noise), and also aids keeping the stones pores clean (the oil helps float the stone residue and the metal swarf from the blade to the top, so all you have to do is wipe the stone with a clean cloth). Using dry stones on a dry blade will eventually tear into the stone, to give you a similar wear down as on your cheaper stone you showed at the start. Dry sharpening, to me, is fine if out in the field and all you require is a top-up sharpen. But doing a multi collection in the home will soon render your stones needing replaced.
I have been using the _original_ Lanksy 5 stone kit (non diamond) for my skinning and gutting knives for 20 odd years, and am _still_ using the _same_ stones from the original kit! The honing oil has been replaced a few times with Lansky Sharpeners Nathan's honing oil (beware people saying to use baby oil, gun oil, or WD-40 - the oils 'weight' needs to be right so that the oil does not sink into the stone and clog/ruin it, or be too light so that it will just float off). Stropping isn't high on my list of things to do afterwards, even though I have a 90 year old Seal Skin strop that belonged to my Grandfather which produced great results even to this day when used on an open razor. (although a substitute modern strop paste has to be used, as you can't get hold of seal blubber thesedays!)
Biggest comment ever
@@aesaehttr LOL - oh heck no! For me, that's a real _short_ comment. You ought to see one where I waffle bit! If you did, you would need to take a week off work to read it....and then another week off to _recover_ from reading it. All the best. Regards and electronic handshakes. Dawg.
Hi there Digger Dawg, thanks for that - what you say makes perfect sense. There were two reasons I didn't use the oil originally. 1) because I watched another video by someone who seemed pretty authoritative on the Lansky system and he said it wasn't necessary for diamond stones; and 2) this made sense to me because I have a Trend double sided diamond bench stone I sharpen my chisels on, which I use lapping fluid on. There's a lot of conflicting views out there as to whether you should use water or lapping oil on diamond bench stones, and I've found the lapping fluid a bit of a pain to use. It's so much easier to just wash the stone under a tap so I thought, to hell with the oil/ lapping fluid, I'll go with the water method. HOWEVER I've had a ton of comments on this video by people saying, like you did, that I should use the oil, and to be honest if I had followed the damn instructions I would/should have done! So you live and learn - I guess I never imagined the video would get this many views and attention.
That's pretty impressive you've had your Lansky kit for so long!! Testament to your skill in using it, and the respect you've got for the kit, I guess. I'm interested to hear you don't strop afterwards. I didn't do it particularly well in the video (as loads of people like to point out
😀) but I did find it made a massive difference to the sharpness of the blade.
Nice comment though - thanks for getting involved!
This looks useful for people who like sharpening knives more than they do cooking. I've been using a vee shaped sharpener clamped by suction to the worktop for a few years now. Just give the knife a few swipes before use every now and then. Works fine and cost about £10 from John Lewis. Don't bother with honers unless you're skilled at it, as they are very effective at taking the edge off your knife.
Thank you for your demonstration I thought it was really awesome thumbs up to your video
Thanks, I appreciate that 👊
Read the directions, that's not how you clamp a knife. The screw is a rough set, the red knob in back torques the clamp
I see what you mean about this. The screw adjusts the angle of the jaws of the clamp to match the angle of the body of the blade. The the red knob clamps the jaws down. Less wiggle in the blade this way.
Your fingers look very close to the knife edge, as the knife gets sharp I imagine you have to concentrate. I like the way all the angles are taken care of for you though! Thanks for the review Charlie! N.
If you keep your grip on the plastic, above the stone part, you're fine. And keep your visual attention on what you're doing. That said, I do like watching TV while I do this but I'm careful and never have had a problem with cutting myself while sharpening.
I cut myself once with this system, healed perfectly since I was almost finished and the knife was sharp ;)
Wear a cut prevention glove
That clamp on the sharpener is clearly leaving a mark on your blade, devastating for those expensive knifes.. thanks for the great video btw
I've got to say, it's not the best, that clamp!
Just put a piece of tape on each side of the blade before you clamp it. I believe they even suggest it in the instructions.
I've been using this system for about 20 years, it is absolutely fantastic.