Patton "milk house" utility heater won't run
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- If your Patton "milk house" utility heater is acting like it wants to run but it just won't stay on this video explains why.
Unfortunately, there is no "proper" fix for this problem, but at least now you know the cause.
EDIT: Just wanted to make a disclaimer and be perfectly clear I don't recommend jerry-rigging or any other method to make your heater run as it can be an electrical and fire hazard. This video was for demonstration purposes only. Thanks, be safe!
Thanks for watching! Please like and comment if this helped.
I have an old Comfort Zone milkhouse heater that I found in a dumpter, guess the old owner wasn't very handy but yeah it was doing the run for 2 minutes and shut down and not come back on thing. I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to push the contacts closer together and it worked like a charm! Thanks for taking the time to make this video, it's still giving value into late 2022
As an old 72 year old mechanic, I have developed a knack for the "shortcut". It seems to me that the easiest "fix" that will maintain the safety feature "tip-over protection" is to find any piece of flat copper and carefully fold it into a U. Slip it onto the contact point, I would make sure it is compressed tightly! If done well, you can slip it over either (one of the) bi-metal contacts and it will provide a new surface contact to repair the switch/stat. A drop of solder will add added anchor support if you want to "weld" the copper fix into place. Just sayin'. Good luck, otherwise search out a junked heater OR a Cadco TFTW (but then you do not have the tip-over protection---not a good thing).
My fiancee is an electrician and he discovered the same problem and he just took a pair of needle nose pliers and bent one of the contact fins back a bit so it made good connection again and it fixed both of the heaters we have like this I just saw this video looking for trouble shooting fixes and figired I'd share what he did to fix our space heaters because they are great heaters just the parts quality are somewhat lacking
I used a piece of sandpaper to clean the contacts and mine works just fine now. I hope that it can help others.
I believe the problem with many of these electric heaters are that some people expect them to run 24/7 on high setting. I don't believe these small heaters are designed for that. If you need that much heat, you need a larger heater, one that is designed to put out more heat.
I used a mini binder clip to press the 2 together, works like new now.
I had the same issue and initially didn't know what the it was. After a few temporary fixes of what I thought the problem was, I had to look up what the reoccurring issue was because my solution wasn't working anymore. Once I found out that it was that it was a quick fix.
Noticed the same thing thanks for the confirmation, guess I'll have to take it apart to and bring those two lovebirds together
I noticed that the contacts were worn out and then I realized they were made out of copper and well I added a piece of copper wire in between the contacts and it helped keep it running. So I jerry rigged it lol but it works !
yes, I do have the same problem .thanks for the video.
Thank you Sir for making this video I did what you said and mine starting working, they are designed to burn out after the contact where out. Find it out my self, the only thing that staid working was the fan mode ,because once it gets hot it shouted down, these are made to fool people to buy the because they look so good and durable, money scam, but the main component is the cheapest quality they can find, that way you have to buy another one. IF YOU BUY A HEATER BUY ONE WITH A SWITCH BOTTOM ,YOU CAN FIX THOSE ,WITH A THERMAL FUSS.
Thanks for the comment, glad I could help!
It's cost more & bit bulkier but an upright oil filled quiet 3 settings & thermostat control warms up stays warm longer . I've went thu 2-3 milk house heaters a year. Throwing my money out door. I'm buying a second oil filled portable heater by next fall...last one I had lasted, years...us poor folk got 25$
but bigger purchases 60-90$ seems out of our reach so we buy cheap then another cheap..then another cheap..
You waste time buying another plus sales tax your gas ...end up spending 30-40$ for that 25$ heater
When I could have had 2 solid working heaters for 130$ bought late winter end of season... 1 will outlast 4 milk house oh add the kerosene heater 130$ fiasco messy stinky smokey kerosene 5$ gal last 1 day on cold day... that chimney wick & more wicks 7-10$ each from like crossing thru fort nite oh 1 other little chepo heater ...$$$
Blew 350 or more looking back & was still cold till the oil filled electric heater...
Just take a nail file and put it in between the contacts, squeeze it a bit and run it back and forth until shiny.
do you know if you can bypass this? plug the 2 wires together or something???
Thank U bro just what i needed to know thank, thank U, thank U
I have the same problem which is the switch just like the video. I burnished the contacts and that did not seem to help. I searched all over for parts and there are none. I will try Tom's repair ideas below.
I legit put a penny in between there and it worked
I'm having the same problem with an Intertek heater model dq1409. I have two of them. On one I took out the switch and hot wired it so it always runs. The other one just started acting up too. I thought I'd search for a replacement switch, but have not had any luck so far.
I’ve been looking for a replacement switch but can’t find it , have you
Thank you. I guess I'm gonna hot wire mine 😉 Got mine at walmart, Sam's been dead too long. They don't care.
where can I get that part?
You CAN replace that part....
I am looking for that replacement part. Do you have a link?
Can we say,"PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE" This is the worst heater I've ever bought!..
Milk house model number DQ 1702 Yeah it was working fine after a few months later started to go on and off.... Also before now, the chord would get really hot turn plug-in black/melting
Heads up,
no parts do no buy another ...do not get suckered into the look or name...6 mos -1 year few bumps ..they make them to toss along with your $$ ..i have luch with upright oil filled heater costs more but quiet heats small to bigger areas better thermostat range..warm heat vs forced air thing way harder to tip over..you dont know its working so quiet..look in late winter they drop prices on heaters i have 1 just had my second milkhouse die so replacing it with oil filled standing unit..then on milder 35°+days the 2 oil filled units will keep house main part 500 square ft comfortable low 60..so dont have to mess with old smokey 1970 ashley wood burner....my 25 yr olds chimney might
Not be 100% 😂 ..
Think we need to add 1-2 ft to height.chimney on south side. & every south wind it blows back if not a big fire or burning thorny locust...the romance of free heat not so instagramy folk
so has anyone found a way to get a replacement part or link
What's the name of the complete piece?
Thanks, I purchased three and two of them stopped working. Very poorly designed.
wonder if there is a way around this, without adding bits, I'm not worried about it falling over, mine was fixed, maybe a different type of thermostat?
My fiancee just bent one of the metal contacts to touch the other when the dial was turned to the high setting with some needle nose pliers, so when you do turn it back down they don't touch anymore, and it's fixed two different units like this that we have and you don't have to compromise any of the saftey devices either hope this helps
My fiancee just bent one of the metal contacts to touch the other when the dial was turned to the high setting with some needle nose pliers, so when you do turn it back down they don't touch anymore, and it's fixed two different units like this that we have and you don't have to compromise any of the saftey devices either hope this helps
How to bypass safety?
Thanks. The safety switch came off inside my heater.
You just saves my @$$ my good man. it's very cold and we use it for the baby but I droped it and it wouldn't turn on. Safety thingy was broken and contacts barely touching, completly removed the leftover plástic and it now works. Question: what happens without the safety thing?
@@chilledClouds The safety weight is in place for tip over situations. Normally if the heater tips over the safety weight will rotate and push the contacts apart so that the heater stops running. With the safety weight removed, if the heater falls over somehow it will continue to run and become a fire hazard. Having kids myself, it's not worth the risk. The heater can be replaced, your kids or your house not so much.
@@liveandlearndiy7971 I think you got a better chance at winning the lottery. Then an all steel heater erupting in flames. Maybe power surge cause electrical fire in the wall outlet. But not the heater and it's certainly not hot enough to even give you a 1st degree burn. It has a 100% duty cycle and you can run a week straight and shell will not even be warm. So good luck burning anything with that
@@dwm20ll Hi Daryl and thanks for the comment. As far as being a potential fire hazard my concern is not the heater itself catching fire but the environment the heater is placed in that could potentially be flammable, especially if the heaters tip over switch is disabled. As stated in previous comments it gets hot enough to melt the tip over switch off and in my own experience the contacts arc quite a bit as they wear down before quitting completely. Also as the heater cycles on and off you would be hard pressed to prove that the glowing red heat coils are not capable of setting something on fire. Given these instances, I personally would not trust this heater until these issues are resolved and I certainly wouldn't claim to know how the heater will respond in any given scenario. I do know that if this or any heater fell over in my child's room, perhaps onto the carpet or clothes or whatever else that could potentially catch fire, and it kept running I would not be comfortable with that. Of course it's a matter of personal preference and you're right, most of the time nothing will come of it, but for me it's better to ere on the side of caution especially when it comes to my family and personal property. One last thing, people win the lottery every day, just some more than others.
@@chilledClouds I can tell you EXACTLY what happens. You open the door to the room it's in and flames fly out the door. You freak out, start grabbing dogs and throwing them outside while you frantically call the fire department and watch your house go up in flames from the front yard. you survive, your dogs survive, insurance rebuilds your house and you don't learn a damned thing. You come on YT 10 years later looking for FIX because you now have 6 of these MFers in the garage and think "hmmm I'll try fixing these now" ... ONLY TO LEARN nope, that would be REALLY REALLY STUPID DEBORAH JEAN. Same heater, Patton, 2010 and I STILL have one on my feet right now that is starting to go LOL ... guess I'll be ordering a NEW one. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO. AWESOME. but nope, will not be bypassing the safety switch!!! LOL
Can you solider a lump onto the contacts to make them fatter so they will touch?
Hello and thanks for the question. As I put in the video description, I would not modify this heater in any way as it could become an electrical and fire hazard. Not to mention with its current design there are many issues with the safety/tip over switch melting off.
NOT solder as its melting point is too low. You could end up with a heater that won't shut off.
How about using a single pole baseboard heater thermostat. Might be able to mount on the front. An oven type switch no mall open on the bottom would work for shut down safety. Just sayin
Yes. Something like that could work, but I always suggest people to understand the science of electricity AND hazards.
Why are you calling it a" milk house"?
Helped thanks
that balancer looking like bullet it is to keep safety heater must be in vertical in order to work if the unit fall for so many times the safety device stop working .. been loose and need to be retorque it is a safety device
Ty so much I just wadded up some aluminum foil
Alan Fisk has 8j
Man this has been the most disappointing product that bought in a while. In 1.5 yrs Ive bought or attempted to return 4 of these heaters. They work for about 2-5 months then conk out every time. I plugged it into to walls, different plugs, and all that comes on it the stupid 1-2 Heat light switch. A few times something inside just fell off and rattles around inside when i move the heater. Seems to be the worst poorly build piece of crap that have ever wasted money on. I think its American made, if so, the company needs to be ashamed .
It’s Chinese lol. Leave to Walmart to find the cheapest products.
I bought one at Walmart, i have being use it for about 4 years, today is not turning on it may later i dont know but it has being paid off avery every single dollar, pretty good
Never mind is working again, it may be was overheating because i had it run for long time
What did we see
The contacts on mine melted
the safety weight melted off ours
Jeannie Jackson ours too
yes mine did
@@liz-ve6xr did you replace it or how did you fix
Hey I have a question if you are still keep an eye on the comment section. Would it be possible to modify the heater or rig it to put out more heat than it is “safely” made to put out?
If that makes sense, terrible sentence structuring
Short answer: DON'T. But if you're an engineer and intimately understand the physics, you could use the thing as the mainframe by which to build a new model.
@@bigsmiler5101 not a helpful answer 1 year later but thanks for the reply. The heater is pretty simple to modify and also put together where it can easily malfunction if not taken apart and cleaned regularly. Doesn’t take an engineer to fix simple things you could figure out yourself, I did shock myself a bit tho 😁
Just straight wire it . Like I have two years ago . 😉👍
You can cut the 2 positives from stupid design. Put together and bam
@Mr large mouth bass other then not able to turn on and off with button it's fine just unplug and plug
Can you make a tutorial?
@@ryanscool2008 well I already cut and spliced mine and threw that pos thermostat away. Heater still works great ran 24 7 all winter
I suppose I could show you what it should look like ?
@@dwm20ll sure if you can. I'm freezing
look I've been searching the internet for four freaken hours all I need to see is the fukn proper working heater layout to make sure it's hooked up right
My husband cut some wires and connected 2 TOGETHER now as soon as you plug it it stats working..but it won't shut off ok
Those 2 wires are bypassing the thermostat completely just pt kn something similar
Use leaded solder n solder it together lol