This is a good tutorial! I would point out one thing though - the flat depth on the plug doesn't change the size of the "glue pocket", it changes the gap between the pieces at their surfaces. The glue pocket size is determined by the difference between the pocket depth and the start depth of the plug. So if your pocket depth is .2" and your plug start depth is .18", there will be a .02" deep glue pocket. The flat depth then is for leaving a gap between the surfaces (if you want one, for example some people like to cut the plug waste away with a bandsaw). If you changed it to something extreme, say 1", then there would be a 1" gap between the surface of the board and the opposing surface of the plug waste. But the glue pocket would still be .02" because that's the difference between a .2" pocket and a .18" plug start depth. Hope that makes sense! Cheers
One of the easiest tutorials on the subject to follow and understand. I have watched them all and this is the one I recommend to others. Thank you for making this!
Stars! Stars! Omg Stars dude!!!!! Wow you killed it! My father was born in 1907 and made his living as an interior finish carpenter. He would pat you on the back and with his deep Swedish accent say want to go get some coffee? He would love to talk with you and spend Time in your shop making things all day long and so would I! Thank you for making this Video!
STARS- Thanks for posting this tutorial. I've been running my shop as a legit business for a couple of years now, but I have somewhat pigeonholed myself and have to expand for a widening customer base. I hate telling a customer "I can't do that" and it gives them the impression that I'm totally clueless. I've half-assedly played around with inlays, but not seriously enough to learn it well. This has given me a lot to consider, especially using a TBE bit to cut with, and not a V bit. It's a concept I hadn't ever heard of, until now. When I have tried inlays, I almost always ended up with something that looked just okay, at best. Most inlays would be ill-fitting and/or have gaps in places that should have been tight. I'm glad I found your video, thanks again for posting!
Glad I could help! Nothing wrong with telling a customer "that's not my speciality". Done that many times, gives me a good excuse to network and recommend a friend.
Stars, thank you for showing these steps. Especially the milling and install of the stars. Most how-to videos skip this important step. Again thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge and your time.
stars. new to cnc, learning inlays. 3 days trying to get the numbers right, and can't figure out those rounded inner corners. i had watched almost half of this video previously and stopped, as i was looking for carveco and metric tutorials... today i solved the corner problem by doing pocket instead of vcarve, just trial and error, now this evening i'm looking for more tutorials, and refind this video, watch all the way, and realize i had only needed to keep watching for another couple minutes to have gotten the info i needed a week ago!. thank you.
I had watched Garrets video on inlay and definitely will be using those numbers but I am happy to see you can use a tapered carving bit to do the actual cutting. I feel the 90 and 60 deg v bits are too wide to make tight corners plus using the pocket method is excellent as well. Thank you for this.
Stars - Excellent video. I've spent hundreds of hours researching cutting board inlay methods and beating my head against the wall for months. Although I think I finally found some settings that work, I really like your method and I can't wait to try it. You've managed to solve all of the problems and at the same time, simplify the instructions. Great job!!!
Stars are looking great! This is a great help, I'm about 3 months into the cnc world and want to start doing some inlays, so thanks for the great info!
Stars: I just ordered the bit to help in fixing my horrible inlays. Garrett has also helped me in some of the struggles I've had as a "newbie". Thanks for the info
Stars, I just started my woodworking business and MURICA cutting boards are one of my ideal products. These settings are perfect for my testing for this week. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the tutorial. Really nice to see the physical examples with the plugs cutaway as well as the software walkthrough. About to try some cutting board inlays.
I have read and watched several videos of ways to do V Carve and find this method works best. What I like is that it doesn't cut as deep (unless you want to) and this cuts down on the time it takes to carve something. I also like the way the tapered bits work in this method since they cut easily and clean. I used a 3-degree bit, and the joints were exceptional. Unless I have large areas, I don't use a clearance bit and the bottoms are exceptionally smooth. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Stars. This was really useful, I’m using vertex vcarve pro and a one finity cnc. There is a steep learning curve but you Garret mark L and a few others are making the learning soooo much easier. Mahalo
STARS, What a revolutionary Idea. Completely different than I see everywhere else. Going to try this this weekend. Excellent video and explanations. Much appreciated.
I participate heavily in several Facebook CNC groups and one topic people need help a lot with is inlays. I see people throwing out all sorts of crazy numbers they got "from a video" that don't work so they ask for help. I have a couple videos I often send them to and/or quote numbers they should try. Your numbers with a .02 glue gap align with what I already have been telling people but I must say your video is better than any of the other ones I have seen on doing inlays, especially the part about using a narrow TBN instead of a V bit to get steep walls. I'm going to start referring people to this video.
Well, im stumped. Its been some time but historically I have had ok luck doing inlays. Been out of the shop for some time due to medical reasons and figured id kick out a project with a simple inlay. Using the exact same amana bit (46280) and 1/4em for clearing I have a very simple pocket with an island in the middle (think doughnut) using your exact same settings as in video: female pocket = vcarve toolpath start depth 0" and flat depth .2" Male plug = pocket toolpath, start depth .18" with cut depth of .02" I even tried using v-carve tool paths for both male/female ends and same result. The plug drops right it with play I can feel. Not a tight fit at all. Thinking maybe the original SVG was somehow to blame I imported the SVG again on a brand new project. Selected outer and inner vectors and did a v-carve toolpath. Copied the same 2 vectors to a new layer, flipped them, selected outer vector and created an offset of it and then selected all 3 nested vectors to create pocket toolpath. Im totally stumped as to why I have such a loose fit. The machine is a onefinity woodworker and I have not noticed any play in of the axis. no wavy/uneven cuts on any axis yet still have sloppy inlays, super frustrating.
@@GearheadDaily I see you imported your bit size. Is this available with the trial and how did you do it. looking for a tutorial on how this is done now. Thanks
Stars! I just discovered your channel and glad I did. To help you along, I clicked the like and did this comment thing for the algorithm. You also earned a subscribe as the info in the video is quality. End result is worthy of a gold star. ⭐️
Stars! That is the same bit that Broinwood uses! His inlays are remarkable. I have been using the vcarve path for my plugs, but next one I do I will use the pocket!This has been very helpful, it also shows that I can always learn more. Thanks for posting this.
Stars, and strips! Thanks for sharing this info! Looking forward to getting my hobby shop going. Last commercial cabinet shop I owned had a 14" table saw, miter box, quality spraying equipment, lots of air drills, misc tools, oh, and me! Now, looking at cnc point to point machines under 4k? Laser cutting under 2k? OMG, I would have gone crazy with this stuff back in the day! Now, in my 50's, no chance I want a big shop and a giant table saw. You work on this set up looks simple, clean, fun, and actually not over the top expensive to get into. Thanks for the video.!
Stars … great video! As a beginner in the cnc world this content keeps me understand better especially the fact that I’m using vectric v carve pro and have a onefinity journeyman! Keep up the good work and again thank you! You have a new subscriber!
Great tutorial! I was confused for a moment as to how you got the clearing toolpath for the pocket. I didn't create one for me, but then I saw you already had the end mill in your tool list on the pocket toolpath. Once I went back and added the end mill to the tool list, all was right with the world. Thanks again for an awesome, easy to understand tutorial.
Stars. Woke up early this morning worrying about my inlay. Trying to do a double inlay. And prolly too small. The problem is that, according to common learned knowledge, I’m using a 60° v-bit. But this destroys the tail feathers on the firebird I’m cutting. Great fix you have here. But I need to try the female cut. Seems odd to use the pocket for it. Thank you.
Super thorough, and very helpful. Good explanation of the "Why" in addition to the what/how. I will say, though, could use a little more volume on the narrated at the computer parts
Stars, Thank you for this video, it explains inlays as you really want to do them! I have the Amana 46282-K thats 5.4 degrees and so far I've used it for 3d reliefs, excited to try our your method, I subscribed :)
STARS, man this is a great video. I am working on trying the inlay in the stars and this has helped me a great deal. I am planning on getting the 6.2 TBN very soon..Many thanks,
Stars - Hi Eric, I reached out to you the other day as I am trying my first inlay project. I followed the setting in your video in Vcarve pro and the female side came out great but a total failure on the male insert. Would it be ok to ask a couple of specific questions? On the male side I set the tool path as a pocket tool path and tried to use a 1/8 upcut endmill to rough out the area around the insert and the Amana tool you linked for the finishing. I ran the rough cut first and it seemed to work but chipped out at a couple of spots on the insert inlay part. that was the first issue. Once the rough cut was dome I changed tools to the amana and just set my Z value leaving the x and Y. The tool when returned to 0 was off the corner of the board as I suspected because of the extreme taper of the Amana 46280 tool. Do I need to set the x,y, and z values on the second tool or would you run the Amana tool first? Also when running the Amana tool do you only choose the inlay part and not the outer offset as the tool goes back over all of the area that the roughing tool already did and takes forever and not taking off much wood? I think I must have missed something as the word I also put in did not carve at all with the Amana tool and therefore has not way to fit into the female side. Sorry for the long winded comment but I must have missed something? I would also be interested in having a call with you and paying for your time if you offer those services at all. Thanks
Stars,,, great job. I use easel but I am thinking changing over to vector. Its just when you get use to something its hard to change. I think you can do more in vector. Thanks
Stars...Great video! I was a little miffed at first with the downplay of the Vectric method - originally the Paul Zank method (a great friend of mine - RIP)...BUT, every thing you said was spot on and easy to understand and make sense...can't wait to give it a go.
Stars - A big thank you. Excellent, excellent video. I love the snap at the end with a little hammer tapping. Have you tested the outer boundaries of how deeply you can make the negative cut? I'm guessing it's only limited by the depth of the cut on the bit, yes?
Stars Hi Eric, I am new to hobby woodworking and interested in learning but am struggling a bit. Is it possible to get the exact numbers and settings that you use in Vectric? I think it will be a better starting point than what I have and i can experiment from there. I to make a lot of cutting boards for friends and family and have run into the thin fine line issue you talked about. I would much appreciate the starting point and I also took your advice and ordered the Amana bit. Thank you so much. Ron
@@ronbernstein2889 all of the specs are in the video during the vectric portion. Otherwise download the Amana catalogue, that way you'll have the exact shape of bit
Stars Great video. I use the 0.0, 0.3 and 0.2, 0.1 method in Vcarve Pro. My primary bit is 1/4 inch carbide 60 deg. Never had an issue with fine details. Having said that, I am going to try your method as I am open to new ideas. I have the Amana bit you reference, but I've always thought of it as a V bit. Albeit a very deep V! Last thing, to remember concave vs convex use this mnemonic, a cave is a hole in a mountain. It goes in. Again, great video! I'm subscribed! So keep them coming.
Stars. 👍 I’ve been researching CNCs, inlays, etc for a year now and hope to get my first machine this spring. I’ve always disliked the “leave a huge glue gap” method and wondered if something like this would be a better option. Thanks for doing the research and providing your findings with us here!! Subscribed and liked. 👍
I have done so much experimenting with inlays, but I've never thought of using a ball nose. I wouldn't think that you could get a sharp corner with a round tip. That being said, I'm n the middle of doing a couple of cutting boards with inlays, and i'm dying to try your method. Thanks for the video!
My project was for 3-lines of text and a swirling design above and below that. (This is not my 1st inlay but it is my 1st time using this method). I watched the video multiple times to make sure I got it right but. I went slow with my carving and cleaned up any burrs after. No matter what I did, the 2 pieces would not fit together. I used a new 4.8 degree tapered ballnose and both pieces carved very well. But again even with a little "mallet convincing", there was no way that these would join together. Fortunately, I used scrap wood that was surfaced but I am at a loss as to why this did not work out.
This is a good tutorial! I would point out one thing though - the flat depth on the plug doesn't change the size of the "glue pocket", it changes the gap between the pieces at their surfaces. The glue pocket size is determined by the difference between the pocket depth and the start depth of the plug. So if your pocket depth is .2" and your plug start depth is .18", there will be a .02" deep glue pocket. The flat depth then is for leaving a gap between the surfaces (if you want one, for example some people like to cut the plug waste away with a bandsaw). If you changed it to something extreme, say 1", then there would be a 1" gap between the surface of the board and the opposing surface of the plug waste. But the glue pocket would still be .02" because that's the difference between a .2" pocket and a .18" plug start depth. Hope that makes sense! Cheers
Stars…I started with the second video. Your process makes so much sense. The style and pacing of your videos is outstanding. Thank you!
Thanks for the note! :)
One of the easiest tutorials on the subject to follow and understand. I have watched them all and this is the one I recommend to others. Thank you for making this!
Thank you!
Stars! Stars! Omg Stars dude!!!!! Wow you killed it! My father was born in 1907 and made his living as an interior finish carpenter. He would pat you on the back and with his deep Swedish accent say want to go get some coffee? He would love to talk with you and spend
Time in your shop making things all day long and so would I! Thank you for making this
Video!
You had me at Swedish finish carpenter LOL!
@@GearheadDaily ha! Yea back in the day it was all by hand. I was looking for the brand and model of CNBC you were using. Did I miss that?
@@prophotoservices I'm using a Onefinity. is that what you were looking for/
Great tutorial. The value for me was the confirmation that "your work is as good as your tools". Thank you.
Glad I could help :)
STARS- Thanks for posting this tutorial. I've been running my shop as a legit business for a couple of years now, but I have somewhat pigeonholed myself and have to expand for a widening customer base. I hate telling a customer "I can't do that" and it gives them the impression that I'm totally clueless. I've half-assedly played around with inlays, but not seriously enough to learn it well. This has given me a lot to consider, especially using a TBE bit to cut with, and not a V bit. It's a concept I hadn't ever heard of, until now. When I have tried inlays, I almost always ended up with something that looked just okay, at best. Most inlays would be ill-fitting and/or have gaps in places that should have been tight. I'm glad I found your video, thanks again for posting!
Glad I could help!
Nothing wrong with telling a customer "that's not my speciality". Done that many times, gives me a good excuse to network and recommend a friend.
have you tried it ? it didnt work for me
Stars, thank you for showing these steps. Especially the milling and install of the stars. Most how-to videos skip this important step. Again thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge and your time.
Glad it was helpful!
stars. new to cnc, learning inlays. 3 days trying to get the numbers right, and can't figure out those rounded inner corners. i had watched almost half of this video previously and stopped, as i was looking for carveco and metric tutorials... today i solved the corner problem by doing pocket instead of vcarve, just trial and error, now this evening i'm looking for more tutorials, and refind this video, watch all the way, and realize i had only needed to keep watching for another couple minutes to have gotten the info i needed a week ago!. thank you.
Glad i could help! Tell your friends and sub if you can :)
I have used this video multiple times for doing inlays and they come out perfect every time. Thank you!
Wonderful! Glad it helped :)
can you please help its not working for me . can you show how you are doing it
Stars, just wanted to give a shout out that even 3 months later your video is still getting watched 👍 and still teaching
Awesome! Thank you :)
I had watched Garrets video on inlay and definitely will be using those numbers but I am happy to see you can use a tapered carving bit to do the actual cutting. I feel the 90 and 60 deg v bits are too wide to make tight corners plus using the pocket method is excellent as well. Thank you for this.
Hope it works out for you :)
Stars - Excellent video. I've spent hundreds of hours researching cutting board inlay methods and beating my head against the wall for months. Although I think I finally found some settings that work, I really like your method and I can't wait to try it. You've managed to solve all of the problems and at the same time, simplify the instructions. Great job!!!
Very welcome!
People have issues with it due to bad advice. This method never fails.
ua-cam.com/video/evGaxSr7f2k/v-deo.html
Stars are looking great! This is a great help, I'm about 3 months into the cnc world and want to start doing some inlays, so thanks for the great info!
Glad i could help
Stars: I just ordered the bit to help in fixing my horrible inlays. Garrett has also helped me in some of the struggles I've had as a "newbie". Thanks for the info
Glad i could help, good luck.
Stars
This is one of the best inlay vids I have see yet. I like the way you explained the tool pathing & depth.
Thanks...
Thanks for watching! :)
Stars. Great insight! Thank you
@@jimGrime glad I could help
I wish I could post a photo. I used your method here and it worked spectacularly!!
Perfect!! Thanks for the tenner!
Stars, I just started my woodworking business and MURICA cutting boards are one of my ideal products. These settings are perfect for my testing for this week. Thank you.
Glad i could help
STARS!!!!Just brilliant tutorial 👏👏👏
Stars! Thank you for this tutorial this was the best one i have found so far!!! Really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge
Glad I could help! :)
Grazie per aver condiviso la tua esperienza! 👏
No problemo
STARS- Awesome video. Tried your system and worked perfectly. Thanks!!!
Glad I could be of help :)
Stars
I'm amazed the difference in bits to get those sharp points.
Thank you
Glad I could help :)
Stars. Finally. A video that explains everything you need to know. And easy to follow and understand. Thank you Sir. Appreciate the help.
Any time, glad it has been useful to you :)
Thank you so much for the tutorial. Really nice to see the physical examples with the plugs cutaway as well as the software walkthrough. About to try some cutting board inlays.
Good luck!
I have read and watched several videos of ways to do V Carve and find this method works best. What I like is that it doesn't cut as deep (unless you want to) and this cuts down on the time it takes to carve something. I also like the way the tapered bits work in this method since they cut easily and clean. I used a 3-degree bit, and the joints were exceptional. Unless I have large areas, I don't use a clearance bit and the bottoms are exceptionally smooth. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
You got it, thanks for stopping by :)
Stars. This was really useful, I’m using vertex vcarve pro and a one finity cnc. There is a steep learning curve but you Garret mark L and a few others are making the learning soooo much easier. Mahalo
any time, glad i could help.
STARS, What a revolutionary Idea. Completely different than I see everywhere else. Going to try this this weekend. Excellent video and explanations. Much appreciated.
I wish you the best of luck :)
I participate heavily in several Facebook CNC groups and one topic people need help a lot with is inlays. I see people throwing out all sorts of crazy numbers they got "from a video" that don't work so they ask for help. I have a couple videos I often send them to and/or quote numbers they should try. Your numbers with a .02 glue gap align with what I already have been telling people but I must say your video is better than any of the other ones I have seen on doing inlays, especially the part about using a narrow TBN instead of a V bit to get steep walls. I'm going to start referring people to this video.
Thanks! I appreciate it. I really got into it and thought the numbers from Vectric didn't look right to me so I played around and shared my results :)
Stars turned out great 😉 Garrett has some nice videos for folks just getting into CNCs or even just a new technique in VCarve.
Thanks 👍
STARS, Videos like these make me want to get a CNC when I retire in a couple years. The stars look SHARP! Liked and Subcribed!
Thanks! its not only a hobby but a good source of income too.
Stars - Thanks this was very helpful, I haven’t done an inlay yet, but I will use your method. 😊
Good luck! I just did it again
Yup, you hit it right on the money with the tool. Thanks for video!
thanks! :)
Stars, Thanks for this. Great idea to use that shallow tapered ball nose so that you don't lose the size of inlays as you sand down
Star. Excellent tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Well, im stumped. Its been some time but historically I have had ok luck doing inlays. Been out of the shop for some time due to medical reasons and figured id kick out a project with a simple inlay.
Using the exact same amana bit (46280) and 1/4em for clearing I have a very simple pocket with an island in the middle (think doughnut) using your exact same settings as in video:
female pocket = vcarve toolpath start depth 0" and flat depth .2"
Male plug = pocket toolpath, start depth .18" with cut depth of .02"
I even tried using v-carve tool paths for both male/female ends and same result.
The plug drops right it with play I can feel. Not a tight fit at all. Thinking maybe the original SVG was somehow to blame I imported the SVG again on a brand new project. Selected outer and inner vectors and did a v-carve toolpath. Copied the same 2 vectors to a new layer, flipped them, selected outer vector and created an offset of it and then selected all 3 nested vectors to create pocket toolpath.
Im totally stumped as to why I have such a loose fit. The machine is a onefinity woodworker and I have not noticed any play in of the axis. no wavy/uneven cuts on any axis yet still have sloppy inlays, super frustrating.
Stars, Perfect tutorial, Thank you. I am new to the CNC craze and really struggles with the inlay. This is going to allow me to make it happen.
Goodluck!
@@GearheadDaily I see you imported your bit size. Is this available with the trial and how did you do it. looking for a tutorial on how this is done now. Thanks
Stars! I just discovered your channel and glad I did. To help you along, I clicked the like and did this comment thing for the algorithm. You also earned a subscribe as the info in the video is quality. End result is worthy of a gold star. ⭐️
Thanks! Much appreciated, glad it was helpful
Stars... Great video. Still completely new to the whole CNC thing, but your wisdom certainly puts me on the right path.
Glad i could help :)
STARS!
Stars looks like carbine tooling in machine shop very cool. I use to machine carbine inserts pockets for tooling back in the day
Very cool :)
Stars? More like Stares, as in I could stare at that inlay for days. Great tutorial!
Much appreciated :)
Stars…love it! 👌😊
Stars! That is the same bit that Broinwood uses! His inlays are remarkable. I have been using the vcarve path for my plugs, but next one I do I will use the pocket!This has been very helpful, it also shows that I can always learn more. Thanks for posting this.
Glad it helped! :)
Obrigado pelo tutorial (Thank you for the tutorial).
Hope it helps!
🌟 Awesome! Even better to see it in person.
I think so too!
STARS. Good info thank you
glad i could help
Stars, this is absolutely genius! Thank you co much for sharing this.
Stars stars stars
Excellent tutorial, will implement the numbers you shared. Thanks!
Thanks! I hope it works for you :)
Stars, and strips! Thanks for sharing this info! Looking forward to getting my hobby shop going. Last commercial cabinet shop I owned had a 14" table saw, miter box, quality spraying equipment, lots of air drills, misc tools, oh, and me! Now, looking at cnc point to point machines under 4k? Laser cutting under 2k? OMG, I would have gone crazy with this stuff back in the day! Now, in my 50's, no chance I want a big shop and a giant table saw. You work on this set up looks simple, clean, fun, and actually not over the top expensive to get into. Thanks for the video.!
thanks for the comment and good luck! it's certainly more interesting now with CNC tools
Stars.... Good tutorial ! Thank you. I'm new to Aspire and I love it, there is so much to do with it ! Keep up the good work!
Thanks! if you are feeling generous you can use the tip button ;)
STARS....Thank you. nice job
Thanks! Very well explained. Can't wait to try this out.
Stars. BTW... your narrations reminds me lot of BourbanMoth.
Ha! I've been compared to a few other UA-camrs but never him. He seems like a cool dude.
Stars … great video! As a beginner in the cnc world this content keeps me understand better especially the fact that I’m using vectric v carve pro and have a onefinity journeyman! Keep up the good work and again thank you! You have a new subscriber!
Thank you! Appreciate the support. I have a tips and tricks video for new CNC workers too if you want to check it out, it may help.
Thank you
Glad to be of help
STARS!!! You're awesome!
I try ;)
Stars, Thanks for the great tip.
Anytime hope it helps
Thanks for the video, I am new to cnc trying to learn. Good videos like your help
Thanks
Stars
Stars look quite nice when done this way. I liked your use of a steeper angled v-carving bit for inlaying.
Thank you!
Great tutorial! I was confused for a moment as to how you got the clearing toolpath for the pocket. I didn't create one for me, but then I saw you already had the end mill in your tool list on the pocket toolpath. Once I went back and added the end mill to the tool list, all was right with the world. Thanks again for an awesome, easy to understand tutorial.
you got it!
Stars, absolutely great video! I'm getting ready to purchase my first CNC and this was perfect for me to watch. Thank you
awesome! Good luck with it :)
stars thanks again sir !
@@joetennant5316 glad to help!
Thanks!
Stars great job making it simple and easy to follow keep up the great work.
Thank you!
Stars, subbing on this vid alone. The trash cans r just a bonus lol
HA!! Lazy man ingenuity!
Stars. Great tips! That will be an awesome cutting board!
I think so too!
Stars. Woke up early this morning worrying about my inlay. Trying to do a double inlay. And prolly too small. The problem is that, according to common learned knowledge, I’m using a 60° v-bit. But this destroys the tail feathers on the firebird I’m cutting. Great fix you have here. But I need to try the female cut. Seems odd to use the pocket for it. Thank you.
Stars - what a great video! You really explained the whole process well. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! And you got the word!
Super thorough, and very helpful. Good explanation of the "Why" in addition to the what/how. I will say, though, could use a little more volume on the narrated at the computer parts
Thanks bud! Ya, the volume didn't quite match up did it? I should have caught that. Thanks :)
@@GearheadDaily Yeah, turned it up so I could hear, and then FLLLLINNNGGGGGGG for that pop up "Oh hello!" :D
@@MosquitoMade LOL ya i got that. I thought I turned off the desktop volume, sorry about that LOL
Stars, Thank you for this video, it explains inlays as you really want to do them! I have the Amana 46282-K thats 5.4 degrees and so far I've used it for 3d reliefs, excited to try our your method, I subscribed :)
Ya, that's a solid bit as well. Should work really well.
STARS, man this is a great video. I am working on trying the inlay in the stars and this has helped me a great deal. I am planning on getting the 6.2 TBN very soon..Many thanks,
Excellent, hope it goes well :)
@@GearheadDaily almost ready to do an inlay. How does the TB Amana bit hold up on the purple heart and what speeds are best when using the 6.2 bit?
@@MartyOfAllTrades usually 100in/min is what I use. Seems fine with harder woods because the bit is so small.
Stars - Thanks for sharing. Great info and instruction. Will be trying out the recommended bit.
Hope it works out for you :)
Stars! Great video explaining the process.
Hope it helps!
Very nice video, well done. My question is: how do you get real sharp corners with a ball-end bit?? Thanks to share your experience
Stars,
Great Video supper job, WOW so helpful and Easy to follow.
thank you
Glad it helped :)
Stars. Well put together video! I can’t wrap my head around getting sharp star point female corners using a ball nose?
use a very sharp angle bit and it will get in there very sharp.
Stars, thanks for the information it greatly helps
You got it, glad it helped :)
Beautiful video man love it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice job. I am excited to try this method.
It works well! Hope it helps
Thank you for the stars
Stars:👌👍love it. Thanks
Any time!
Stars - Hi Eric, I reached out to you the other day as I am trying my first inlay project. I followed the setting in your video in Vcarve pro and the female side came out great but a total failure on the male insert. Would it be ok to ask a couple of specific questions? On the male side I set the tool path as a pocket tool path and tried to use a 1/8 upcut endmill to rough out the area around the insert and the Amana tool you linked for the finishing. I ran the rough cut first and it seemed to work but chipped out at a couple of spots on the insert inlay part. that was the first issue. Once the rough cut was dome I changed tools to the amana and just set my Z value leaving the x and Y. The tool when returned to 0 was off the corner of the board as I suspected because of the extreme taper of the Amana 46280 tool. Do I need to set the x,y, and z values on the second tool or would you run the Amana tool first? Also when running the Amana tool do you only choose the inlay part and not the outer offset as the tool goes back over all of the area that the roughing tool already did and takes forever and not taking off much wood? I think I must have missed something as the word I also put in did not carve at all with the Amana tool and therefore has not way to fit into the female side. Sorry for the long winded comment but I must have missed something? I would also be interested in having a call with you and paying for your time if you offer those services at all. Thanks
Amazing clean sharp
Thank you sir!
Stars,,, great job. I use easel but I am thinking changing over to vector. Its just when you get use to something its hard to change. I think you can do more in vector. Thanks
Stars...Great video! I was a little miffed at first with the downplay of the Vectric method - originally the Paul Zank method (a great friend of mine - RIP)...BUT, every thing you said was spot on and easy to understand and make sense...can't wait to give it a go.
Glad I was able to help :)
Stars - A big thank you. Excellent, excellent video. I love the snap at the end with a little hammer tapping. Have you tested the outer boundaries of how deeply you can make the negative cut? I'm guessing it's only limited by the depth of the cut on the bit, yes?
Yep, the bit is what dictates that. Usually 0.5" is the deepest I'll go with that bit.
Love the happy gilmore reference
LOL, i forgot... what did i say?
@@GearheadDaily it was the Tap Tap Tap when you hammered in the star - reminded me of that scene of Tap it when he was putting from happy gilmore ha
@@habitpunk LOL oh, ya that's a Simpsons reference too
Great video! Thanks.
Absolutely
Stars Hi Eric, I am new to hobby woodworking and interested in learning but am struggling a bit. Is it possible to get the exact numbers and settings that you use in Vectric? I think it will be a better starting point than what I have and i can experiment from there. I to make a lot of cutting boards for friends and family and have run into the thin fine line issue you talked about. I would much appreciate the starting point and I also took your advice and ordered the Amana bit. Thank you so much. Ron
@@ronbernstein2889 all of the specs are in the video during the vectric portion. Otherwise download the Amana catalogue, that way you'll have the exact shape of bit
This makes sense, except for flat depth start depth and glue pocket. But the idea just makes more sense than having to use a V-carve
I thought so! Give it a try and see :)
Stars
Great video. I use the 0.0, 0.3 and 0.2, 0.1 method in Vcarve Pro. My primary bit is 1/4 inch carbide 60 deg. Never had an issue with fine details. Having said that, I am going to try your method as I am open to new ideas.
I have the Amana bit you reference, but I've always thought of it as a V bit. Albeit a very deep V!
Last thing, to remember concave vs convex use this mnemonic, a cave is a hole in a mountain. It goes in.
Again, great video! I'm subscribed! So keep them coming.
Thanks! I find this method much deeper and tighter of a fit. Hopefully you do too!
The autofocus problem is caused by the finished block in the background. The camera sees the high contrast there and uses it to focus.
Fair enough
Stars. 👍 I’ve been researching CNCs, inlays, etc for a year now and hope to get my first machine this spring. I’ve always disliked the “leave a huge glue gap” method and wondered if something like this would be a better option. Thanks for doing the research and providing your findings with us here!! Subscribed and liked. 👍
Awesome! Thanks for watching and commenting :)
You changed the tool when you did the positive part. What was the second tool and what was the tool path? Thanks.
Same tool, but used a clearing bit. nothing special
@@GearheadDaily Thanks
Stars 🌟 beautiful video i love it
I'm glad you like it
I have done so much experimenting with inlays, but I've never thought of using a ball nose. I wouldn't think that you could get a sharp corner with a round tip. That being said, I'm n the middle of doing a couple of cutting boards with inlays, and i'm dying to try your method. Thanks for the video!
I hope it works out :)
@@GearheadDaily it worked well, but I didn't get the sharp corners like you did. I did a side by side, I should've taken a picture to show you
@@gregraso557 Dang, you should have
@@GearheadDaily I will take a pic tonight. I may have just done something wrong. stay tuned
@@gregraso557 Cool, looking forward to it.
Great video. If I wanted to a bigger project could i use a clearance tool to the negative just so it doesnt take hours?
Yes, i do in the video
Stars. Thank you 🙏🏾 140
My project was for 3-lines of text and a swirling design above and below that. (This is not my 1st inlay but it is my 1st time using this method). I watched the video multiple times to make sure I got it right but. I went slow with my carving and cleaned up any burrs after. No matter what I did, the 2 pieces would not fit together. I used a new 4.8 degree tapered ballnose and both pieces carved very well. But again even with a little "mallet convincing", there was no way that these would join together. Fortunately, I used scrap wood that was surfaced but I am at a loss as to why this did not work out.
A lot of variables, hard to know without more info
Stars, Great video. Thanks
You're welcome!