So a bike mechanic told me that I should be careful opening the headset up because the spacer insides the tube can fall in. Is that true? and if it is, what can we do to fix it?
Thank you so much, GCN Tech. You just saved me money and a trip to LBS. I had a tiny play in headset in my Canyon Endurace and couldn't figure out why. Took me weeks before discovering this video and getting to undestand that stem bolts should never be tightened before top compression bolt. Such a rookie mistake! Now all is tight and secure, thanks!
I am happy that I last year got the idea to build myself a bike from the scratch, buying all the parts and tools, and assemble it myself. Learned a lot (from watching GCN Tech videos!) and also made some misstakes (from thinking, "how hard could it be?"). Also when you ride alot you learn how your bike behaves, and when something is not as it used to be. Best thing is that all of my bikes are nowdays in tip top condition all the time :) The other week I got a question if my bike was brand new, and the feeling when you could answer "No, its been doing 7000km" was really nice :)
I'd say it depends on what changes. If it's a drastic yes surely you'll notice it soon enough but if it's long term wear I find I get really complacent towards those. Let's take my CX commuter, I recently did a nice overhaul on it and only after the work I put into it I realized how bad my shifting turned and how badly my brakes were in need of bleeding. Stuff like that's that gradual and minimal is often near impossible to notice/realize.
Nice explanation, Jon. Could you guys do a vid on how to cut a steerer tube using different techniques for the cutting? (i.e. pvc cutter, hack saw, and a dremel)
FINALLY. I've just rebuilt my bike for the first time and got stuck on the headset of all things. I was tightening the pre-load bolt BEFORE the stem bolts and it locked up the steering. Almost drove me mad. Kept taking it apart and reassmebling with no change until I followed your instructions. Thank you for this video, I was ready to throw my bike out the window.
Great video. Clear and to the point now that I’ve done this once. When I first bought my bike I had the shop put on a different stem. I think the mechanic tightened down the preload/top cap too much and he damaged the five star nut inside the fork tube that the bolt goes into. I had to replace that as well. So, this wasn’t mentioned in the video...but if you’re not getting enough pre load it could be that the nut inside is damaged and/or sliding (not biting) inside the fork tube. I also had the top cap hitting the tube problem, but I have an extra spacer like was mentioned in the video. It’s no big deal, as the stem is really what holds it all together.
great vdo. I thought my headset was gone and needed a new one. But after watching this VDO I found that I could fix it by loosening the right bolts and retightening in the described order. Problem solved. Many many thanks.
I had the problem of not being able to take up any slack, as the crown race had split diagonally. Bodge fix was a freewheel spacer under the race to give more pre load bolt adjustment.
Thanks Jon, the headset was becoming loose when I was tightening the stem bolts so tried with a 10mm spacer on top instead of 5mm and it worked. I guess after preloading the bearings and tightening the stem I could remove the 10mm spacer and add the 5mm one (just for looks)?
I have an issue with a New Carbon Aero bar i got, I am trying to tighten my top cap (triangle shape, Ali Express Kocevlo) and it doesn't tighten and pull up the headset, Previously it was a simple circular screw on piece (Giant Contend 2020 SL 1 Disc). I have now filed down the Fork tube by at least 4mm below Aero bar when attached onto fork. I just don't understand why i can screw down till the last 1mm but cannot stop the triangle top piece from moving even though the screw is fully tight. I do not think i Lost a piece as i have 3 parts inside (funnel thing underneath cap, cylindrical expansion piece and this small triangular shaped nut that seems to sit inside expansion piece which I'm guessing spreads as you screw tight the top screw)
If you have a Specialized multi stem, they're slightly angled (so you can get 4 different angled handlebar positions with the one stem) with an angled shim and the top cap needs to be put on in congruence to the position of the shim so that it sits flat.
Then you're having a threaded/quill headset? You're gonna need (in general) 2 big thin wrenches to adjust the tightness of the system. I suggest looking at a video explaining it more indepth.
I had to tighten my headset a few months ago, forgot to re-tighten the stem bolts. got about 300m before i realised, leaped from the bike with cat like reflexes. and quickly tightened them with my multi tool. luckily, the stem wasnt loose enough that i died... could have gone badly if i had gone round the corner i was about to go around.
After a monumental battle with buying and then fitting headset bearings for my CX bike( I still can't find a cheap top bearing that will fit ) I got the bottom one in and running smooth, I can agree with you that the standards and variations are confusing. It didn't help that the carbon expander bung thing skipped down therefore the bike had to be assembled upside down.
Hi guys, is there a bearing race inside carbon frame head tube to mate with the lower bearing? Or, the lower bearing only mates with the carbon headtube?? Thanks
I keep meaning to add it to the order when I get something else, and then forgetting! Duh! (the postage for it on its own would double the price - next time I order hopefully I'll remember)
I just got a new headset top cap (deity) and was wondering if water can get in the steer tube etc.. and if so is that bad/ what can I do to prevent that
Could you go over the same procedure for the Acros style headset? I've followed the manual but can't seem to eliminate the looseness. I must be missing something.
Then you're having a threaded/quill headset? You're gonna need (in general) 2 big thin wrenches to adjust the tightness of the system. I suggest looking at a video explaining it more indepth.
_@boomerangfreak_ -- What? No, I'm not talking about a vintage quill headset. I'm talking about a modern headset as shown in the video. 2.5 Nm is a good starting torque for the top cap bolt that screws into the star nut in the steering tube. This creates a preload that is not too tight and not too loose. Once you've tested it by rotating the fork and made any desired adjustments, then tighten the stem bolts to "lock" the headset adjustment.
WOW I'm so sorry, that was actually supposed to be a reply to a completely other comment XD I think I must've miss clicked something totally wrong. Sorry for the confusion this has caused :P but yes on your comment, I have never really used a torque wrench on the top cap but yes that does sound about right.
Yes, I took it to my local bike shop. They charged me a fair bit, replaced both bearings and two weeks later, voila! I got movement and an annoying ticking sound to boot.
My headset bearings don't just pull out or anything they seem to be in place quite tightly and I've found out I'd need a tool to remove them is there any way I can change them so they just slip in easily like the ones on this bike?
Question for anyone who knows. If my spacers are loose enough to be able to turn them around easily, is my headset too loose or is it normal and i'm overthinking?
hello from the philippines. my name is randy and i have a question for you. i am building a road bike. my frame is the 2010/2020 specialized allez sprint disc. where can i buy, or what headset can you recommend for me? i have no clue on what to buy. i am hoping you will be able to see this question and reply as soon as you can. thank you again.
Hi Jon, I was about to askgcntech about my headset issue. Is it normal that it comes loose fairly regularly? Seems when I hit rougher roads, or just after two or three hundred km of riding, my headset has loosened a bit. Am I doing something wrong or is it normal? Thanks for the timely video!
Trying these adjustments, I ran out of slack in the top cap bolt, unable to get the bearings to set firmly. After an hour of fidgeting and contemplating shimming, I took the bike to the shop. The tech had to take the whole assembly apart to tighten some parts inside the steer tube that connect to the top bolt. Said it was good that I brought it in.
I find when I tighten the side bolts, the head set still goes stiff! I put in a spacer too! I even adjusted my own headset but found my neck gets sore! Kidding!
Well it's clear that Jon is the correct man for the job with his "guns" since Dan Lloyd's "guns" just aren't up to the task of tightening his bike's headset!
Weird that you are loosening the top cap bolt first, *prior* to loosening the stem bolts. On a lot of setups I would imagine you run the risk of stripping the top cap bolt since its movement is hindered by the still-tight stem bolts.
I’m enjoying the bike so far ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Seems a little sketchy having a spacer on top of the stem with no steerer sticking out.* I'd probably use that trick to tighten the stem, then take the top cap back off and remove the spacer (once the stem is tight you can remove the top cap, no problem), and re-attach the top cap again. Better yet, just add 1mm more spacer under the stem. 1mm is nothing but will fix the issue. *If something knocks the top cap, the steerer isn't there to support it, and that spacer is free to slide out, so it can put a lot of side force on the top cap screw, torquing it against the bung/star. It's maybe not too likely, but it just doesn't seem right to me.
Every bike tech on the planet will recommend putting a spacer in between the top cap and the stem to reduce play in the head set. It’s a very simple and effective alternative to cutting your steering tube down (which is the other way)
@@reboundrides8132 @Rebound Rides Of course if your steerer tube is too long, you need more spacers. Obviously you can't tighten the headset at all if the cap is resting on the steering tube. The point I was speaking to was having the cap resting on the stem, with the steerer tube recessed, and then adding a spacer fully on top of the stem with no steerer protruding into the last spacer. Yes, if the cap is resting on the stem, with the steerer recessed, you absolutely can tighten the headset and reduce play without any more spacers. If you're right at the edge, ie just where the lip in the cap interferes with the steerer as Jon was describing, then you need more spacer somewhere, and no it doesn't matter where. Regardless if you add it under or over the stem, the top of the stem/spacer stack will now be high enough that the cap lip doesn't rest on the steerer and you can now tighten the headset. The advantage of placing it under is that that the top element, the stem, will be supported by the steerer. If the thin spacer is on top it will have no steerer within it and will be in danger of sheering. Having any outer piece that is fully above the steerer seems needless at best, possibly harmful, and easily avoided. It's probably not so bad, but there's no need for it. Nobody needs 1mm precision in their bar height. You could also drop your bars 1mm instead by remove 1mm from under them, and then use a 2mm spacer on top. That also works because now the lower stem means the steerer will protrude at least a little into that 2mm top spacer. There's only one exact bar height that creates this problem and you just don't need to be at it. Yes any mechanic will add a spacer on top if the steerer is sticking out past the stem, obviously.
@@reboundrides8132 And what I'm saying is there's a better way. But that's not all you said. You said adding it under the stem won't solve this, but that's not true. It certainly will. And it IS sketchy because that top shim has no latteral support at all. If anything knocks it, the top cap screw gets tweaked in the star nut. That's sketchy if people do it all the time or not.
Does your headset need adjusting? Follow Jon's guide and let us know how it goes. 👇
My headset is working fine, but I learned a few things. Thanks Jon.
So a bike mechanic told me that I should be careful opening the headset up because the spacer insides the tube can fall in. Is that true? and if it is, what can we do to fix it?
No it doesn't 😂
I guess I'm kind of off topic but does anyone know of a good place to watch new series online ?
@Abdullah Matteo try Flixzone. You can find it on google :)
Thank you so much, GCN Tech. You just saved me money and a trip to LBS. I had a tiny play in headset in my Canyon Endurace and couldn't figure out why. Took me weeks before discovering this video and getting to undestand that stem bolts should never be tightened before top compression bolt. Such a rookie mistake! Now all is tight and secure, thanks!
What I like about GCN, they are not arrogant like I find a lot of road riders. They seem like nice chaps and don't talk like you are stupid.
Super helpful. The additional spacer just beneath the top cap was the piece of insight I needed to get the rattle out of my headset. Thanks!
I am happy that I last year got the idea to build myself a bike from the scratch, buying all the parts and tools, and assemble it myself. Learned a lot (from watching GCN Tech videos!) and also made some misstakes (from thinking, "how hard could it be?"). Also when you ride alot you learn how your bike behaves, and when something is not as it used to be. Best thing is that all of my bikes are nowdays in tip top condition all the time :) The other week I got a question if my bike was brand new, and the feeling when you could answer "No, its been doing 7000km" was really nice :)
I'd say it depends on what changes. If it's a drastic yes surely you'll notice it soon enough but if it's long term wear I find I get really complacent towards those. Let's take my CX commuter, I recently did a nice overhaul on it and only after the work I put into it I realized how bad my shifting turned and how badly my brakes were in need of bleeding. Stuff like that's that gradual and minimal is often near impossible to notice/realize.
Nice explanation, Jon. Could you guys do a vid on how to cut a steerer tube using different techniques for the cutting? (i.e. pvc cutter, hack saw, and a dremel)
FINALLY. I've just rebuilt my bike for the first time and got stuck on the headset of all things. I was tightening the pre-load bolt BEFORE the stem bolts and it locked up the steering. Almost drove me mad. Kept taking it apart and reassmebling with no change until I followed your instructions. Thank you for this video, I was ready to throw my bike out the window.
Great simple step by step process with clear explanation on the parts and their inner workings.
2:39 the way his body moves when he said stem bolts fascinate me
hahaha
🤚🏼👁👅👁✋🏼
“Stem bolts”
This video showed me exactly what I needed to do to tighten my wobbly headset in about two minutes. This is the perfect how-to video.
Ain't Ard is it? 😀
Great video. Clear and to the point now that I’ve done this once. When I first bought my bike I had the shop put on a different stem. I think the mechanic tightened down the preload/top cap too much and he damaged the five star nut inside the fork tube that the bolt goes into. I had to replace that as well. So, this wasn’t mentioned in the video...but if you’re not getting enough pre load it could be that the nut inside is damaged and/or sliding (not biting) inside the fork tube. I also had the top cap hitting the tube problem, but I have an extra spacer like was mentioned in the video. It’s no big deal, as the stem is really what holds it all together.
Great timing. Replacing my aluminium fork w/ a carbon steerer tube fork, and carbon spacers. Great tips!
Excellent as always from Jon. Perfect advice for myself this afternoon doing a headset service and fine tuning the steering tightness.
I just replaced the bearings and grease on the headset of my 1978 Raleigh Super Course. Working on that modern headset looks much more convenient. 😁
great vdo. I thought my headset was gone and needed a new one. But after watching this VDO I found that I could fix it by loosening the right bolts and retightening in the described order. Problem solved. Many many thanks.
I had the problem of not being able to take up any slack, as the crown race had split diagonally. Bodge fix was a freewheel spacer under the race to give more pre load bolt adjustment.
Thanks Jon, the headset was becoming loose when I was tightening the stem bolts so tried with a 10mm spacer on top instead of 5mm and it worked. I guess after preloading the bearings and tightening the stem I could remove the 10mm spacer and add the 5mm one (just for looks)?
Thank you GCJ, really informative and well explained
I have an issue with a New Carbon Aero bar i got, I am trying to tighten my top cap (triangle shape, Ali Express Kocevlo) and it doesn't tighten and pull up the headset, Previously it was a simple circular screw on piece (Giant Contend 2020 SL 1 Disc). I have now filed down the Fork tube by at least 4mm below Aero bar when attached onto fork. I just don't understand why i can screw down till the last 1mm but cannot stop the triangle top piece from moving even though the screw is fully tight. I do not think i Lost a piece as i have 3 parts inside (funnel thing underneath cap, cylindrical expansion piece and this small triangular shaped nut that seems to sit inside expansion piece which I'm guessing spreads as you screw tight the top screw)
If you have a Specialized multi stem, they're slightly angled (so you can get 4 different angled handlebar positions with the one stem) with an angled shim and the top cap needs to be put on in congruence to the position of the shim so that it sits flat.
How do I know if I overtightened the top cap? I think I did but how can I be sure without unscrewing everything and putting it back again
Great Video Jon. Thanks. But I have a head set without a top cap. How do I adjust that?
Then you're having a threaded/quill headset?
You're gonna need (in general) 2 big thin wrenches to adjust the tightness of the system. I suggest looking at a video explaining it more indepth.
Thank you, this video helpped me figure out what I was doing wrong.
For the moment my headset is perfect as the bike in the video. Very good education video and Jon great as always!
Thank you. I didn't know that additional top spacer trick. I just nearly destroyed my headset trying to tighten it as it is still a bit loose.
So what do you do when the upper headset bearing has worn a groove in your fancy carbon steerer?
Yessss!!!! What do I do!?!
Replace your fork
Jon, nice tip! Solved my issue instantly!
I had to tighten my headset a few months ago, forgot to re-tighten the stem bolts. got about 300m before i realised, leaped from the bike with cat like reflexes. and quickly tightened them with my multi tool. luckily, the stem wasnt loose enough that i died... could have gone badly if i had gone round the corner i was about to go around.
Where else have you posted this comment
Clear and helpful. Thank you.
Is it okay to put that spacer with a hollow steerer? I mean it doesn’t sit on a steerer tube?
I have this issue now. Thanks!
Does it come with assembling?
After a monumental battle with buying and then fitting headset bearings for my CX bike( I still can't find a cheap top bearing that will fit ) I got the bottom one in and running smooth, I can agree with you that the standards and variations are confusing. It didn't help that the carbon expander bung thing skipped down therefore the bike had to be assembled upside down.
What happened to Jon? I don’t see him in the newer videos
Hi, super tutorial...! Could you pls, tell me, all types of headsets have this problem? Or which is in your opinion the most reliable headset?
Hi guys, is there a bearing race inside carbon frame head tube to mate with the lower bearing? Or, the lower bearing only mates with the carbon headtube??
Thanks
Very clever way to teach us, and very easy to perform, thanks
headset wont tighten or losen .allen key just spins .so i cant get the forks off to put a spare spacer in and can tighten them ,now what ?
Can't believe you didn't use the shop link at the end to advertise your GCN top-cap!
Good point there Frazer, have you got one though?!
I keep meaning to add it to the order when I get something else, and then forgetting! Duh! (the postage for it on its own would double the price - next time I order hopefully I'll remember)
I just got a new headset top cap (deity) and was wondering if water can get in the steer tube etc.. and if so is that bad/ what can I do to prevent that
Could you go over the same procedure for the Acros style headset? I've followed the manual but can't seem to eliminate the looseness. I must be missing something.
Y does gravel cycle headset has big ring size then above
Great instructions. Which I has seen this a couple of years ago.
_Tip:_ The torque for the preload (top cap) bolt is usually close to 2.5 Nm. If you have a torque wrench, this is a good starting place.
Then you're having a threaded/quill headset? You're gonna need (in general) 2 big thin wrenches to adjust the tightness of the system. I suggest looking at a video explaining it more indepth.
_@boomerangfreak_ -- What? No, I'm not talking about a vintage quill headset. I'm talking about a modern headset as shown in the video. 2.5 Nm is a good starting torque for the top cap bolt that screws into the star nut in the steering tube. This creates a preload that is not too tight and not too loose. Once you've tested it by rotating the fork and made any desired adjustments, then tighten the stem bolts to "lock" the headset adjustment.
WOW I'm so sorry, that was actually supposed to be a reply to a completely other comment XD
I think I must've miss clicked something totally wrong. Sorry for the confusion this has caused :P
but yes on your comment, I have never really used a torque wrench on the top cap but yes that does sound about right.
Yes, I took it to my local bike shop. They charged me a fair bit, replaced both bearings and two weeks later, voila! I got movement and an annoying ticking sound to boot.
I am ashamed to say I didnt even know that my headset was loose. Its fixed now thanks guys!
My headset bearings don't just pull out or anything they seem to be in place quite tightly and I've found out I'd need a tool to remove them is there any way I can change them so they just slip in easily like the ones on this bike?
Question for anyone who knows. If my spacers are loose enough to be able to turn them around easily, is my headset too loose or is it normal and i'm overthinking?
Funny that helped me solve a stiff headset on my son's balance bike :)
How did you fix it?
LOL! minefield changing bearings. Good video thanks.
Super helpful. Thanks!
Why are so many mechs now stating that we need a 5mm spacer above the stem?
hello from the philippines. my name is randy and i have a question for you. i am building a road bike. my frame is the 2010/2020 specialized allez sprint disc. where can i buy, or what headset can you recommend for me? i have no clue on what to buy. i am hoping you will be able to see this question and reply as soon as you can. thank you again.
What about grease?
Mine is too loose not even gripping the front wheel. I am so frustrated because the bike was not cheap.
Thank you so much help me a lot......
Thank you
GREAT VID !
very well explained. :)
Do you actually need to grease the headset before it goes in?
I would yes
The bearings yes
Thanks
Thank you bro...it work
well the priblem is i cant even insert the centering sleve
Question: How different is it to wrap aero bars vs the more traditional round bars?
Hi Jon, I was about to askgcntech about my headset issue. Is it normal that it comes loose fairly regularly? Seems when I hit rougher roads, or just after two or three hundred km of riding, my headset has loosened a bit. Am I doing something wrong or is it normal? Thanks for the timely video!
hi, make sure that the bung inside the steerer is done up nice and tight to the correct torque. Cheers, Jon
Trying these adjustments, I ran out of slack in the top cap bolt, unable to get the bearings to set firmly. After an hour of fidgeting and contemplating shimming, I took the bike to the shop. The tech had to take the whole assembly apart to tighten some parts inside the steer tube that connect to the top bolt. Said it was good that I brought it in.
I find when I tighten the side bolts, the head set still goes stiff! I put in a spacer too! I even adjusted my own headset but found my neck gets sore! Kidding!
Well it's clear that Jon is the correct man for the job with his "guns" since Dan Lloyd's "guns" just aren't up to the task of tightening his bike's headset!
Groovy baby
Don't forget to saw about 4 inches off the seat post if you're going to attempt to get on this bike.
Weird that you are loosening the top cap bolt first, *prior* to loosening the stem bolts. On a lot of setups I would imagine you run the risk of stripping the top cap bolt since its movement is hindered by the still-tight stem bolts.
The stem doesn't clamp onto the top cap, it only clamps the steerer. The top cap sits on top of the stem.
Love youuuuuu
Simple = smart.
Front brake....on the right?!?
It's a English thing lol
I’m enjoying the bike so far ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Seems a little sketchy having a spacer on top of the stem with no steerer sticking out.* I'd probably use that trick to tighten the stem, then take the top cap back off and remove the spacer (once the stem is tight you can remove the top cap, no problem), and re-attach the top cap again. Better yet, just add 1mm more spacer under the stem. 1mm is nothing but will fix the issue.
*If something knocks the top cap, the steerer isn't there to support it, and that spacer is free to slide out, so it can put a lot of side force on the top cap screw, torquing it against the bung/star. It's maybe not too likely, but it just doesn't seem right to me.
Every bike tech on the planet will recommend putting a spacer in between the top cap and the stem to reduce play in the head set. It’s a very simple and effective alternative to cutting your steering tube down (which is the other way)
And putting another 1mm spacer on the bottom won’t fix this particular problem.
@@reboundrides8132 @Rebound Rides Of course if your steerer tube is too long, you need more spacers. Obviously you can't tighten the headset at all if the cap is resting on the steering tube.
The point I was speaking to was having the cap resting on the stem, with the steerer tube recessed, and then adding a spacer fully on top of the stem with no steerer protruding into the last spacer. Yes, if the cap is resting on the stem, with the steerer recessed, you absolutely can tighten the headset and reduce play without any more spacers. If you're right at the edge, ie just where the lip in the cap interferes with the steerer as Jon was describing, then you need more spacer somewhere, and no it doesn't matter where. Regardless if you add it under or over the stem, the top of the stem/spacer stack will now be high enough that the cap lip doesn't rest on the steerer and you can now tighten the headset. The advantage of placing it under is that that the top element, the stem, will be supported by the steerer. If the thin spacer is on top it will have no steerer within it and will be in danger of sheering. Having any outer piece that is fully above the steerer seems needless at best, possibly harmful, and easily avoided. It's probably not so bad, but there's no need for it. Nobody needs 1mm precision in their bar height. You could also drop your bars 1mm instead by remove 1mm from under them, and then use a 2mm spacer on top. That also works because now the lower stem means the steerer will protrude at least a little into that 2mm top spacer. There's only one exact bar height that creates this problem and you just don't need to be at it.
Yes any mechanic will add a spacer on top if the steerer is sticking out past the stem, obviously.
Big Ring all I’m saying is just about every bike tech does it. There’s nothing “sketchy” about it which is what you said originally.
@@reboundrides8132 And what I'm saying is there's a better way. But that's not all you said. You said adding it under the stem won't solve this, but that's not true. It certainly will.
And it IS sketchy because that top shim has no latteral support at all. If anything knocks it, the top cap screw gets tweaked in the star nut. That's sketchy if people do it all the time or not.
i will simply do it on the floor
English brake set up; right lever..front brakes.. ouch
Spacers on top of the stem?! no,no.
Sadly, it seems this video is tragically devoid of “grubby little hands” and “old money”.
apologies. I will do my best next time. Jon