The Flexloc is my favorite! Ck has the best torches in my opinion & make great flex heads, but they do wear out eventually. The Flexloc torch has a semi-rigid pressure swivel that allows for infinite repositioning without work hardening the annealed copper twist in the standard flex. It does run a bit warmer than a complete water jacket head, but I don’t see myself turning back at this point!
Awesome work.how or what are you on time % an back ground settings for thks thin.i am trying to get welds like that on 3003 .064 thickness .could you please share your your advice
3:35 No apologies needed. This view is actually preferred half of the times. There is nothing much to learn from a super close up at x4 the speed that you see on 95% of the videos out there.
@@patrickpringle5141 the angles I used to fixture are 1/4”, and the flat bar is 3/8”. If you are running an inverter machine, increasing the HZ is the fastest way to more control on thin aluminum.
Hello my friend. I just started tig welding and triying to weld thin aluminium pipe. I have to clean and everuthing but just by tacing it i burn through. I believe i have the amperage and freaquensy wrong. Can u tell me wich is the best? Thanks
When I try to do the same thickness aluminum plate, my very first firing melts the aluminum. And I've tried reducing the amperage so low that it doesn't weld at all then. I have yet to weld 0.065" aluminum. 0.125" I can usually start getting welds to work, but it too doesn't look very good.
@@KANEKIDWELDS I left it in Portuguese on purpose kkkk .... it is necessary to clean or cut the end of the wire in the weld stop as in stainless steel welding
Hahaa! Thank you! It’s good practice to clip the end of the filler if it has been atmospherically contaminated. If the end is kept inside the inert zone, then there is no need.
I highly recommend a flexible body file and holder you will love it there abit sharper than your average file but you get used to it and you can get all different tpi files and just swap them out great for any sheet metal plus you can curve the file in both directions or use flat
Love that file man, works great! Exquisite job as always rush! Love how you give shout outs to people in the community that all contribute towards a better and more enjoyable tig welding and fabricating experience. Speaking of, I will probably hate you up about making that ring after the holidays, Then upgrading a few things around the shop and of course taking care of Christmas and what not lol Peace brother, Keep Blazin!😎🤘
Hi Rush, your welding skills are amazing. I'm very much a beginner. Would you mind suggesting settings for a basic machine for butt welding 1.2mm 1050 aluminium please? Like cfh, electrode size, ceramic cup size, stick out, amps. I can't change frequency or do pulse on my machine and I'm really struggling! Either seem to melt back edges or not enough penetration. Plus no foot control 🤔I can't really use a chill block as I'm welding up hammer formed body parts on my car (perhaps the metal is thinner as a result of the forming?) Best wishes, Christian, England.
I am a future aspiring welder and your work is phenomenal. But since this is a video on eliminating impurities from the work piece as much as possible, this is my two cents worth from the aerospace industry.... Once you've wiped down the work piece, because your hands have impurities and oils on them that you're transferring right back onto the work piece, it's highly recommended, unless you're allergic to them, to wear nitrile rubber gloves. Also, acetone will leave an invisible film if it is allowed to evaporate dry. And acetone evaporates fairly quickly. So, in addition to wiping the piece down with a clean wet wiper, it should be immediately wiped down with a clean dry wiper before the acetone dries and repeating this process until both wipers remain absolutely clean from any residue. Lastly, acetone is some nasty stuff where the use of proper personal protective equipment should not be an afterthought nor overlooked. Hint: Nitrile rubber gloves are not enough protection when using acetone and it will destroy the gloves. Instead, there are special acetone gloves designed for this purpose. Be safe and happy building!
Nice restart Rush, also the drop thru shows the consistency of the weld 👍
Thanks for showing both sides of the weld
Going to have to try a flex head. Never used one yet. Looks helpful
The Flexloc is my favorite! Ck has the best torches in my opinion & make great flex heads, but they do wear out eventually. The Flexloc torch has a semi-rigid pressure swivel that allows for infinite repositioning without work hardening the annealed copper twist in the standard flex. It does run a bit warmer than a complete water jacket head, but I don’t see myself turning back at this point!
Awesome work.how or what are you on time % an back ground settings for thks thin.i am trying to get welds like that on 3003 .064 thickness .could you please share your your advice
OMG that is art! Da Vinci welding! This planet needs you kid!
3:35 No apologies needed. This view is actually preferred half of the times. There is nothing much to learn from a super close up at x4 the speed that you see on 95% of the videos out there.
Instablaster...
Should do a semi clean one and compare them I do alot of boat props any recommendations or tips ?
What frequency settings do you use??
The only Person who knows how to deliver with a Gas lense! How much flowrate for a Nr. 5 with a lense? I am a standard 5 collet body guy for years
Beautiful weld.
Thank you!!
I’d like to see you do some 063 and 080 aluminum, I work with that lots and sometimes struggle.
This is .063” sheet here. I posted a few back on thin aluminum tube that’s right about .085” thick.
Oh ok right on, looked thicker apparently to my old eyes lol.
@@patrickpringle5141 the angles I used to fixture are 1/4”, and the flat bar is 3/8”. If you are running an inverter machine, increasing the HZ is the fastest way to more control on thin aluminum.
Yea I am running a everlast 250ex with a ck flex torch. What hz would you recommend for 063 to 080 aluminum?
@@patrickpringle5141 I like to run between 180-240hz at about 65-75%EN.
Chill blocks are your best friend when welding thing Aluminum.
"Thin plate"? You clearly are not a welder.
Beautiful weld. i love the fact that you make your dabs look like "teardrops" rather than "halfmoon" like. super sexy stuff.
help, i cant weld two small cylindrical tubes together, what should i do
Hello my friend. I just started tig welding and triying to weld thin aluminium pipe. I have to clean and everuthing but just by tacing it i burn through. I believe i have the amperage and freaquensy wrong. Can u tell me wich is the best? Thanks
What settings were used? so as what Tungsteng filler did you used? awesome work !
When I try to do the same thickness aluminum plate, my very first firing melts the aluminum. And I've tried reducing the amperage so low that it doesn't weld at all then. I have yet to weld 0.065" aluminum. 0.125" I can usually start getting welds to work, but it too doesn't look very good.
é necessário limpar ou cortar a ponta de vareta de adição como fazemos com aço inox na parada de mudança de posição da tocha? excelente soldadura.
I need a translator... I can almost make it out but unsure.
@@KANEKIDWELDS I left it in Portuguese on purpose kkkk .... it is necessary to clean or cut the end of the wire in the weld stop as in stainless steel welding
Hahaa! Thank you! It’s good practice to clip the end of the filler if it has been atmospherically contaminated. If the end is kept inside the inert zone, then there is no need.
Beautiful work as always! :) Are you using 4043, or 5356 filler?
Thank you! This was Alcotec 5356.
4043 and 4047 filler for cast aluminium ☝️😎
@@KANEKIDWELDS Thanks! Do you get an even shinier bead with 4043?
Who has polished alum. material? No oxide removal? If one should file or remove oxide do you still think you NEED acetone wipe down??
The master at work.. Great job Rush.
I highly recommend a flexible body file and holder you will love it there abit sharper than your average file but you get used to it and you can get all different tpi files and just swap them out great for any sheet metal plus you can curve the file in both directions or use flat
Can you post a link to something like that? I don't know what you are talking about.
@@danl.4743 www.ebay.com.au/itm/FLEXIBLE-BODY-FILE-HOLDER-355mm-length-HAFCO-Part-No-FBH-14-Order-No-F150-/332579123861?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
@@kieren7763 I've never seen this before. Thank you!
Settings?
Never leave home without my TIG finger😁😁😁
Supah Cleannnnnn
Love that file man, works great! Exquisite job as always rush! Love how you give shout outs to people in the community that all contribute towards a better and more enjoyable tig welding and fabricating experience. Speaking of, I will probably hate you up about making that ring after the holidays, Then upgrading a few things around the shop and of course taking care of Christmas and what not lol Peace brother, Keep Blazin!😎🤘
Thanks brotha!
I should have more availability to start making rings and small projects then too! 🤘🏼 whenever you’re ready!
RAW.
really nice weld mate , very hard to make better it's perfection but i woul'd normally make it with stainless steal on the inside
just cause you don't whant the aluminium weld to stick with the under material
Hi Rush, your welding skills are amazing. I'm very much a beginner. Would you mind suggesting settings for a basic machine for butt welding 1.2mm 1050 aluminium please? Like cfh, electrode size, ceramic cup size, stick out, amps. I can't change frequency or do pulse on my machine and I'm really struggling! Either seem to melt back edges or not enough penetration. Plus no foot control 🤔I can't really use a chill block as I'm welding up hammer formed body parts on my car (perhaps the metal is thinner as a result of the forming?) Best wishes, Christian, England.
Fun fact is that while in the U.S.A. 2 mm are considered "thin", in europe thin material is
I am a future aspiring welder and your work is phenomenal. But since this is a video on eliminating impurities from the work piece as much as possible, this is my two cents worth from the aerospace industry....
Once you've wiped down the work piece, because your hands have impurities and oils on them that you're transferring right back onto the work piece, it's highly recommended, unless you're allergic to them, to wear nitrile rubber gloves.
Also, acetone will leave an invisible film if it is allowed to evaporate dry. And acetone evaporates fairly quickly.
So, in addition to wiping the piece down with a clean wet wiper, it should be immediately wiped down with a clean dry wiper before the acetone dries and repeating this process until both wipers remain absolutely clean from any residue.
Lastly, acetone is some nasty stuff where the use of proper personal protective equipment should not be an afterthought nor overlooked.
Hint: Nitrile rubber gloves are not enough protection when using acetone and it will destroy the gloves.
Instead, there are special acetone gloves designed for this purpose.
Be safe and happy building!
For us its thick 😅
Thin is less than 2mm or less than 1mm 😅😅😅
Same in europe
Leave your text up longer on your videos.
👉🏼⏸
@@KANEKIDWELDS 😂 Man of few words! Love it!
Don't let OSHA see this..no gloves, no file handle, no labeling of the acetone bottle..siserich macht frei!🤣
Thanks for showing the backside..
i need to stop being so lazy and prep material better!!