Thank you for posting this video. I used it as a guide to drain and fill my own 2018 Hyundai Elantra. For those who are looking to change out their ATF, here are some additional comments & observations: 1. @ 0:28 popping the 2 rivets and removing the manifold makes it very easy to remove the air filter box. 2. @3:00 Shift the car to Neutral or Drive to rotate the lever plate if needed 3. @03:22- Another option is to Remove the two bolts that secure the shift mounting plate (the plate that interferes with the fill plug). Rotate the plate clockwise about 10 and the fill plug will come right out (after using a socket extension to loosen it). Obviously, don't forget to re-center the plate, then re-install and tighten the two bolts after the fill plug has been re-installed. 4. Use a 24mm socket to loosen and remove the drain plug 5. I used Valvoline Max Life ATF - I checked with Valvoline directly and they said it meets Hyundai SP4 ATF specs. 6. I bought the crush washer from a Hyundai dealer parts counter - About $3 each (PN 45323-39000). Looks like 18mm ID, 24 mm OD. Buy 2 so you'll have one for the next fluid change. 7. My ATF was pretty close to black after 50,300 miles. The maintenance manual calls out ATF replacement at 60K miles. 8. I tightened the drain plug to 30 ft-lbs with a torque wrench. I contacted the Hyundai dealer about the torque spec and they told me they did not know...which means they didn't want to tell me. SMH :( 9. I drained out 3.25 quarts so I added back 3.25 quarts 10. The car runs better and I'll drive it for a bit before repeating this exercise.
You can move the shift bar out of the way by accessing the shift/lock/release button inside the car at the shifter, which will alloow you to move the shifter out of park to any other position.
@@andy-auto-info2483 Hi please help me I have drain out old oil around 3.5 quarts and I put 4 quarts new oil. It will have any issues after putting extra oil. How will know the 4 quarts is fine? Or I have to drain .5 quarts please suggest
This is an incredibly well done instructional video. Very thorough and well edited. I wish they were all like yours. Now...off to do this procedure on my '17. THANK YOU!
This video was very helpful. I just drained & filled my 2018 Elantra. It has 100k+ miles, but I decided to do it anyway. I opted for the Valvoline MaxLife ATF, and so far so good. My transmission was always smooth, but if it's possible, it's even smoother now. With regard to the fill plug, I decided to file a notch in it like in this video, however I only needed to file a very small piece in order to get it out. It was very close to coming out without any filing. So if you're watching this video and you're worried about filing it down, don't be, it only takes a couple minutes. You don't have to take that much off at all.
Any update/issues since doing it. I have factory fluid in my 18 at 92k miles and am planning to do it this weekend.Am a bit worried so was just gonna do 1 drain and fill and than after about 2-3k miles do another.
I was able to easily remove the fill plug on my '17 Elantra 2.0 without filing a clearance cut. The trick was to not just pull straight up but pull it at a slight angle away from the interfering tab. By angling the plug, it looked like there was only a tiny (< 1mm) interference. I did not feel like I was even coming close to damaging the plug and only needed to pull with a slight force. Ambient temp was ~80 deg F, so warmer temps may help here. I tried putting the plug back on and it was much more difficult, so I did cut a very shallow semi circular clearance cut with the plug on the work bench. Only took about 2 minutes to file a ~1mm half moon cut with the plug out. Now it re-installs easily. Thanks for the detailed video and being a pioneer on this procedure.
That's good to know. I tried all angles and it did not budge unfortunately. Maybe its the warmer weather like you said, ha ha. Glad it worked out for you and happy to help. Cheers! :)
@Andy-Auto-Info A few more notes: If it looks like plug has a large interference with the offending tab, keep rotating it slowly in ~10 deg increments and rechecking the interference. You'll see that the interference goes to almost nothing at 2 angular positions of the plug (located 180 deg apart). This is due to the 2 slots cut into the bottom part of the plug (also located 180 deg. apart) The slots allow more "tilt" of the plug when oriented correctly. Hope this makes sense. Note 2: I let my fluid drain for almost 3 hours after warming up the fluid with a 10min drive. I was able to get almost a gallon drained out. (~3.9 quarts) Note 3: I used Valvoline maxlife --I understand your reasons for not, though. So far, shifting is smooth as silk.
Brilliant instructional video. Best I've seen. Bright, detailed, clean, clear. I'm going to do this procedure this weekend. I'm going to loosen the vent plug but I'm not going to file and remove it. I'm going to refill the fluid in the fill hole where you checked the level, using a hose.
Your diligence is commendable and you're doing what 99% of vehicle owners don't do, but 3x after just 30k miles is a little overkill. Every 30k miles is fine.
Thanks Mitch. I understand its overkill. I did it to replace most of the old fluid with new fluid. Infact, with the lab results, I found that mixing does not do any harm to the transmission fluid. So 2X would have been just fine :)
Thank you so much for posting this video. Oddly, the manual mentions there is no need to change the ATF if driven under normal conditions, and we all know how that goes. I have to say you are very brave for attempting this, and a job well done. Kudos!
That is a deceitful statement from Hyundai. When the sh!t hits the fan, they will just say "we said under normal conditions" That means you should be driving on glass and the wind is always pushing your back.
Very very well made video. For the fill plug, loosen the two 10 mm bolts of the shifter and slightly turn it, the plug will be free. That worked well for me. I wouldn't worry about the shifter position, just mark where it was and rotate it back to the same spot.
I can't believe I shared this video to my friends but didn't have u subscribed. 😔 I just subscribed right now. Thank you again for the wonderful video. I showed this video to few of my friends who have a same car and they are surprised how easy it is to replace the fluid. Because of how people say transmission is "sealed" and that u gotta take it to the good mechanic or a dealer. I show this video and they are surprised how easily u do it and I even let them use my extension socket and they were able to do it. I will keep sharing this video.
I got lucky I guess I wiggled my bolt and it came right out with no filing needed. I ended up using Valvoline ATF it’s SP-IV. Seems to run smoother I’ll know after 2nd and 3rd time. Thank you so much for your video.
Hi Ali, I tried that. The shift selector was not in the way. There is another hexagon looking bolt under the selector which was coming in the way of fill plug. So irrespective of what gear you are on, the hexagon bolt does not change its position. Hope that makes sense :)
Amazing video , thanks so much for the detailed and easy to follow steps!! About to pull the trigger on a 17 elantra with 61k miles so I’m looking to do an ATF change asap . Will definitely be referencing this video and your pinned updated comment. Thank you!! EDIT: when checking the ATF level, you mentioned the temp needs to be 120-140°; that’s from the reading on the temperature gauge inside the car? Also, do you remember where you got the filing tool for the fill plug? I know I can refill through the level check hole, but one of the steps to checking the fluid level is to remove the plug so I’ll have to do it anyway.
Hi Malik, Thank you for your appreciation. Means a lot. Checking the temperature of the fluid cannot be done using the gauge inside because you cannot tell. To do so, use a Infrared temperature gun (20$ in Amazon) and measure the temperature of the drain bolt when the car is at level and running, gear in P. When the temperature of drain bolt hits 120 F, you can be sure that the temperature inside the transmission and the fluid temperature will be between 120 and 130 F. At this point, remove the check plug and let the excess fluid come out. When you see a small steady stream, close the check plug and you are set! :) I feel re-filling via check plug might make it messy. And you may need a special plug to insert inside the hole. Just FYI :) I got the filing set from Home Depot (Husky tools are awesome value) - www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Steel-Precision-File-Set-with-Storage-Case-6-Piece-707476H/207112197?cm_mmc=ecc-_- All the best! Let me know how it goes :)
@@thecentralman Right. Don't file nothing. It's a new car, there is no reason to go modifying stuff to achieve this procedure. I've seen this fill plug removed quite easily with no filling . Other then that, Get the car Level to begin with or don;t do the work, thats just asking for trouble. Level.
I posted my comment on a similar video, so I figured I'd put it here as well: I just did this at 58k on my 2017 Elantra GT. I don't see much content revolving around the GT, but this and similar videos worked well enough for me, though there are a few differences: 1. I didn't need to remove my splash cover to access the drain bolt, but I did anyway for the sake of doing it the first time. When I started, I realized I could see the drain bolt right away and the cover wasn't in the way. I think next time I will leave the cover on and see how that works for me. Though I'll probably have to take it off to check the level so I may be stuck with removing it, haha. 2. The fill bolt on my GT is the screw-in kind. It tightens all the way down, and I had to unscrew it for a bit to get it out. It's not a half or quarter-turn like on the sedans. 3. I did not have to file down or cut my fill bolt in any way - that part you had trouble with isn't in the way so I had no problems getting it out. :) 4. When I unscrewed my drain bolt, it did not have a crush washer, which I thought was strange. I added a copper washer and torqued to 30lb/ft as suggested. As I said, I did this at 58k miles. The fluid was pretty dark but not burnt - still a little red/pinkish in tint. I ran out of daylight so I did not get a chance to check the level, but I drained four quarts roundabouts and I put four quarts back in. Tomorrow when I have sunlight I'll add a little more fluid and check the level. Thanks for your clarification on that process, by the way. Hope this helps any fellow GT owners out there. I'll try to document my experience as well - maybe record something though I never have before. :p After checking the level tomorrow, I'll probably drive around for a couple of hundred miles before a second drain. I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF - it claims to be up to spec and the most important thing for me was getting this fluid changed, so I'm hopeful it'll work just fine, especially after reading that other GT owners use it. Update: Checked my level at operating temperature and got a small steady stream. :) Woo!
Hi Denise, thank you for the wonderful input. I'm sure it will help GT owners. Yes, the methodology of drain and fill is similar but the design of splash covers and location of transmission could be different. For Elantra non GT models, we have to remove the splash covers like how I did. Thank you once again! :)
****ALL UPDATES / FOLLOWUPS GOES HERE**** ***47k miles now. Shifts like Butter! Next drain/fill at 60k. Update Video will be made!*** Follow up Video here - ua-cam.com/video/w7mYgrWWit8/v-deo.html Transmission Fluid playlist here - ua-cam.com/play/PL1j1gyvwIm1XWFImRpBazNAkf72I2ab0X.html 1. Honestly, the process is easy. If you can do an oil change, you can do this. Just need to have patience and do the steps slowly. This was my first time as well and it was an enjoyable experience. 1st time I took my own sweet time to do it. 2nd and 3rd time I knew exactly what needs to be done, I did it very quickly! ha ha :) 2. IMPORTANT - I would recommend using the Level plug to check the fluid level (Making sure the car is at level). To do so, add about 0.5 quarts extra in the transmission. Use a Infrared temperature gun (20$ in Amazon) and measure the temperature of the drain bolt when the car is at level and running, gear in P. When the temperature of drain bolt hits 120 F, you can be sure that the temperature inside the transmission and the fluid temperature will be between 120 and 140 F. At this point, remove the check plug and let the excess fluid come out. When you see a small steady stream, close the check plug and you are DONE! :) Here's what happened. I did not spill a single drop of fluid and measured the fluid as accurately as possible. I added 0.2 Qts extra at the end as well. There was no issues with shifting as you saw at the end of the video and did no harm. I just wanted to check the level using the level check just to be sure. Went to a local mechanic, he checked it in front of me It was low. Had to add 0.3-0.4 quarts in order to get to the right level. He actually pumped the fluid in using the level check hole, so even that can be done to fill the fluid (It could get messy by this method, so I would stick to filling the fluid via the fill hole at the top). It is all good now. Still shifts like butter! I wonder if the factory fill was under-filled a little??? Or does the tranny fluid evaporate over time??? I did my research, it actually does not. Some websites say it does!! Any idea??? Strange - huh! :D :) 3. Some folks have mentioned that the fill plug came out easily for 2017-2019 Elantras. At the same time, there are folks like me that had bad luck and had to file in order to open. So fingers crossed! 4. OIL ANALYSIS - I received the results of the oil analysis of the sample I took from the 3rd drain. The fluid was a mixture of 65% new amsoil fluid and 35% of old Hyundai SP-IV fluid. The fluid was 100% alright without any Metallic compounds present and the fluid was in excellent condition. This means that, all the break in materials were flushed out after 2 drain and fill procedures and also proves that mixing fluids does no harm to the fluid! But a 3rd drain and fill is recommended to put most of the new fluid in and keep it real clean :) Cheers! Let me know if you have any questions! :)
I really liked your explanations I got 2017 elentra. Gl model I would like to know how many quarters of transmission oil needed as well on your video while you changed the transmission oil after three 200 Miles driving back you changed it is it mandatory to do it or once it’s done no need to change it again
@@brethart4938 Hi Bret, I used 9.5 quarts of transmission oil total. If the car is at level, you could get 3.5-4.5 quarts of transmission fluid out. So keep around 5 quarts for one drain and fill procedure. My car was not at level when I did this because of which only 3 quarts came out.
Andy-Auto-Info thanks a lot ohh in total for cars like elentra Hyundai gl 2017 how many I do need to buy transmission fluid bottles I mean and while changing the transmission oil how can I get the whole amount out at once so is it gonna be fine if I change I don’t need worry about level stuff as you mentioned what’s the reason about level while you can release only three 3.5 quarters of from transmission any other way to get the old oil from transmission out at once how can I avoid the level issue thanks
@@brethart4938 The total capacity of the transmission fluid is 7.1 quarts. If you do a drain and fill, you only take out about 50% of the old fluid. If you do not want to use the level check plug, measure how much fluid came out very accurately and put the same amount back in. By doing the drain and fill procedure 2-3 times, you get 80-90% of the old fluid replaced with new. You can check the video at 23:07 mins for more information. Also, by doing a drain and fill, you cannot get all the fluid out at once. If you want to do that, you will have to take it to a mechanic and do a flush. But flushing is not a safe option in my opinion. :)
Thank you. Sure, I'll do that next time when I take this video. For now, there is a pause from my side in making videos. :) I'll definitely be doing a transmission fluid change at 60k miles.
Sir if you went in the car place the parking brake on ,, make sure that you block the rear tires then place the transmission shifter into Drive engine off”” then would be able to remove the transmission filler plug without filling it out
Very well done I like your analysis of everything. Yeah I'm not sure about that viscosity issue. I think there are different s p e c s just for that reason. Thanks for choosing a true chemically engineered synthetic fluid as well. Group 4 and group 5 much better than group 3 hydrocracked petroleum which the courts ruled you can call this synthetic.
I was just getting ready to say, if you would have put it in neutral and hold that emergency brake up that shifter linkage wouldn’t have been on your way and you wouldn’t have had to file down that bolt
I flushed out 4.75 quarts out on my 2017 Elantra. I started it with drain plug off. And ran it though gears quickly then shut off. Did you change the Filter yet. Is it under the pan-- easy access. Nice video. Thank you.
In addition, I am wanting a clarification on the filling location: OK so there is ACTUALLY TWO (2) Fill plugs that I see people using! One is under the Air Box (after removal) and this plastic plug is actually the "VENT" for the transmission CORRECT? The factory "FILL HOLE" is towards the rear and a metal 24MM plug like the 24MM metal drain plug -- CORRECT? Does the Manufacturer (or dealer) use the PLASTIC VENT PLUG or the METAL FILL PLUG Location to add fluid? That is my question!
You can re-use the washer many times if you don't tighten it too much and turn it to the other side. I have done it many times in my Elantra 2008 and Kia soul 2012
You can definitely do that if the washer is re-usable. You do get re-usable washers. Generally, crush washers are used for one-time purposes. The thickness in mm is drastically reduced once you tighten it. If used multiple times, there are chances that it may crack and the fluid may start to leak. Especially if you torque the bolt to specs. Feel free to re-use at your risk. There are chances that it will develop crack and leak. We should not ignore cheap insurance. Thanks :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 I repeat it again, I use it many times and the washer is wherever you call use one-time. The problem is you. You don't know how to use the torque specs. all people and mechanics I see on these youtube videos use the max specs, that is not what specs mean. If it says 28 to 35, why the heck you put 35 ft-lb?
Ok..I see the shift selector arm on the trans is blocking the fill plug..Safety block the tires/Shift lock release to move shifter from P to N or other to clear access fill plug..
Thank you. But the new Generation Hyundai models does not need a transmission filter change. There is a transmission filter but that is somewhere inside the transmission and is very hard to access. Even the dealers do not change it. :)
Hey Andy, I'm proceeding to replace for 1st time the transmission fluid and I'm reading on the manual of my 2017 Elantra limited engine 2.0 that the transmission requires 7.08 US qts is this a bigger transmission (more than double US qts)?
Not all of the oil will come out when you drain it. There is more oil trapped in the transmission. so just measure the oil that comes out, and replace what's needed just like he did in the video.
Hi. Thank you for posting this video! Well done!! It's really bad engineering that we have to file part of the fill bolt away just to change the trans fluid. I wonder if you could gain enough clearance to remove the bolt if you partially unbolted that shifting assembly (or whatever it is) that's blocking the removal of the bolt without causing a problem for yourself? I may visit my local Hyundai dealer and try to talk with one of the mechanics (if they'll do that) and ask him/her what the secret is to getting that cap/bolt off without having to take a file to it. IF they talk with me and I find anything out, I'll post back.
Hi Tom, Thank you. :) Yep, the design is unfortunate. The part that's blocking may be the shifter assembly and could be a crucial part. Check with Hyundai folks whether that can be removed and put back the same way without any calibration. If that part is sensitive, do not touch it. Filing is a safer option. Also, I did not use too much force to file. Just takes time & patience. :)
I wonder which transmission line going into the transmission is the correct one that I can find a good tool removal area. I like the idea to drain, fill, run the engine while sticking the line into a clear bottle to catch what fluid comes from the torque converter and goes through a radiator tank or cooler, then stop when the bottle holds about a quart, add a new quart to the transmission and repeat the process a few times. A second person is needed to start and stop the engine quickly, even shifting through the gears a bit. I did this with my Subaru and it was very easy (3 cycles of the process). This way I was sure to get out a good amount of old fluid before resorting to driving again and simply mixing the new with the old. **Anyone have photos of the specific line that goes into the trans after it has performed the cooling cycle and is about to go into the trans functioning process?** By the way, bluetooth OBD2 readers connect to the OBD2 port and read to phone apps and SOME read the fluid temp. I use a BAFX reader with an app called CAR SCANNER PRO and / or ACTIVEOBD. Both apps work fine but the Car Scanner Pro connects with less effort. ActiveOBD often requires a phone restart, as in power down restart.
That method is called a flush. It has its own drawbacks. If you research more on google, you will find that sometimes flushing a transmission may cause damage.
You know there is an overflow valve that let's you know when you have filled to the correct level. You don't actually need to measure what you have drained out.
Hyundai Elantra 2019 DOHC SEL engine 2.0 Which type of transmission fluid is won't ? How much liter s and quarters ? Please Clarification on the subject ? Thanks
Hi Hersh, It should be the same type SP-IV. Check your owner's manual, you will find the info as well. For a drain and fill, it would be around 2.8-3.2 quarts per drain. The total capacity of the transmission should be 7.1 quarts. I don't think its changed for the 2019 model, you can check owners manual to confirm. Please watch the entire video, you will definitely understand the process. Cheers :)
Amsoil is a good fluid, but you're playing with fire using something other than OEM trans fluid, especially with Hyundai. Hyundai/KIA new about the engine fires and the TSB said to decline all engines that caught on fire and to blame it on aftermarket oil filters. Took 4000 fires, 4 dead bodies, a class action lawsuit, federal judge and 1.5 years of litigation. Magnuson-Moss Act is a joke. Good luck if you have trans work that needs to be done and they find Amsoil in it. And yes, I have a 2019 Sorento and I'll be using SP-IV. Out of warranty, Amsoil is good. In warranty? OEM fluid and filters.
I appreciate your opinion. Engines caught fire, yes, I know! But i'm sure it is not because of the oils/filters used! Unless they were really cheap! Who knows! Those were faulty engines from Hyundai. But they've come a long way since then. The 2.0 MPI engine is solid. Non GDI and so easy to maintain. But regarding transmission in general, I have done tons of research and i'm pretty sure the transmission does not fail if you use non-OEM fluids as long as they are compatible with the spec/viscosity, especially good quality fluids like Amsoil. Transmissions fail because of so many other factors like - 1.Changing the fluid late/Not changing the fluid 2. Suddenly using a quality synthetic with high detergents when seals are already worn out and then tranny leaks all over the place. 3. Manufacturing defect of a transmission 4. Driving in sever conditions like most of us do and not changing the fluid often - which is the main cause of failures these days. 5. Heat! - (Main cause for CVT failures) Now, I am confident that my tranny will definitely last minimum of 100,000 miles or more and hence I am not worried about the warranty! Her journey will be tracked on my channel for many years to come. :) Apologies if I gave out too much info, i'm sure you are already aware of these facts and more :)
Obviously, all you had to do is shift it out of park.... Sorry, but something tells me you need more experience with these things before telling others how to work on their cars 😂😂 The rest of the video is fine, thanks, but I would use genuine hyundai transmission fluid. Fluid changes are so seldom, why not use that which is specified by the manufacturer?
It's funny how he tries to reshape that tranny fill plug with something sharp. You can set your car in neutral next so you can move that shift lever out of the way. Now just loosen those 2 bolts holding that silver cap. Slightly give it a twist so your feel plug can come out. There is a shift lock as well. I'm gonna point this out, very important. So with the tranny drain plug. To loosen, it will be clockwise not counter clockwise. 24 mm bolt.
How many quarts did you have to buy? This will be the first time I will be doing this to my 2018 Elantra and would like to know how many quarts I should buy. Great video thanks for the information!!
@@andy-auto-info2483 okay thanks, so my car is at almost 60k and I have never done it since owning the vehicle. I bought it at 24k miles, what is the difference between flush and just draining it and replacing it with new oil?
@@SXTHGEN I would not recommend a flush. Usually, for Hyundai transmissions, they force the old fluid out and add the new fluid simultaneously. A machine does this. And all the metallic particles are forcefully pushed out and may damage the gears or components inside. You can research more on this online, you'll definitely find lot of articles. By draining and filling, there is no risk at all. And also you get an opportunity to clean all the break in materials captured by rhe magnet. Doing this 2 or 3 times makes sure you replace most of the old fluid by new. Check out the end of the video for a tiny analysis and check my pinned comment for more info. Thanks :)
@@SXTHGEN also, there is a transmission filter inside and is usually not changed by Hyundai. It is very hard to service that and even the dealers do not do that. Regularly maintaining the fluid and keeping it clean should be enough. :)
Andy --- How many miles did you have when you made the fluid change? Also -- I looked on AMSOIL site -- I have a 2019 Elantra SE 1.4L with the Dual Clutch Transmission, and at 55,000 miles, (according to my owner's manual) I see AMSOIL does not have a listing for the FLUID? What am missing ?
Thank you for the detailed video! I'm getting ready to perform this service on my 2017 Elantra and wanted to ask about the ramps you use. I've always used my jack and jack stands when doing oil changes but am thinking of investing in some ramps to make things a bit easier and allow me to keep the vehicle better leveled. I've browsed a bit on amazon but would appreciate your recommendation. Thanks again!
@@andy-auto-info2483 I just completed this service the past weekend. I performed two drains/fill. My Elantra has over 105k miles, about over 75% of those are highway miles I would approximate. No issues so far even after performing the service well past the suggested mileage. Thank you again for the detailed video. I wanted to provide my experience with the fill plug for anyone who comes across this video later and looks at the comments like I did. I was able to remove the plug relatively easy by loosening it first and then keeping my extension in and pulling back on the plug with a little force, not much but this was enough to remove the plug without having to file anything down.
What did you just take the shifter cable and move it and mark it down so you know where it is and did it that way? Why destroy the bolt? It’s not how you do it.
You're welcome. Definitely it would. Just make sure the quantity of fluid that will be used to replace. It definitely will be more. And the fill cap may not require any filing, it may open easily. So please check this first. Also, if you can see the fill cap, drain bolt and fluid level check plug, then it's the same process :)
The tool kit I used was this - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DP4TQX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is currently unavailable. But these are good for oil change and other fixes. Comes very handy - Please see my full message. 1. www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z3968Y/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B074Z3968Y&pd_rd_w=RAp6q&pf_rd_p=a64be657-55f3-4b6a-91aa-17a31a8febb4&pd_rd_wg=jf3HF&pf_rd_r=SGY7VB9144SJBXMCZRW4&pd_rd_r=23296c04-2d3a-42e9-ad67-d0da10100f44&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyT1NWQ0VTOUpOU1ZEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDEzNDkwMUU0NFkxUDlHQ1pYNCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDkyNjU1MVAzS0tYN05BNEtaOCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= 2. www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6RYWW8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?pd_rd_i=B07V6RYWW8&pd_rd_w=3NEQ0&pf_rd_p=a64be657-55f3-4b6a-91aa-17a31a8febb4&pd_rd_wg=Ozd7S&pf_rd_r=M2FE2A9DRFJGD692R3V2&pd_rd_r=9b1914d8-1f54-41fa-957c-59ccac024234&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzME1KSFBRMUhRMDkyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTE1MDMwMUM5NVcwT1VRT0xXOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzA2MTExMTRJMFRBTUxBWU5QSyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1 Torque Wrench I used - 3. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZVQVSY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For transmission Drain bolt socket - This should attach to Torque Wrench because it is 3/8th Inch drive and also other wrenches from the toolkits 1 and 2 mentioned above. 4. www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-15-16-in-6-Point-SAE-Standard-Socket-H3D6P1516/202913497
Please see the video correctly. Shifter was not blocking the fill plug. It was the big hexagonal bolt under the shifter that was blocking it. And this bolt does not move when you change gears. Hope that makes sense.
Zeroing my mileage meter and filling up right before getting n the highway. I can do 78 mph with three people in the car and AC on and it will read 125 miles later 44 miles per gallon. Actual the best doing that was going in slow and go traffic at 45 to 55 in morning to other side of town and got 55 MPG. What have you gotten. I have 2017 Elantra. Great Video. Thanks.
Wow. See, having clean tranny fluid goes a long way. I have 4 simple questions for you. At how many miles did you change your fluid? Which fluid did you use? Did you do 3x drain and fill? Were you able to remove the fill plug easily? :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 Hi I am waiting for fall to do my Transmission change. I have about 74,000. miles on my Elantra now. 100 + deg out here in Az. I try to change oil right before it gets hot and right after even if there is still mileage left. I have 2017 Elantra., Will let you know which fluids I use. thanks
Until I have a way to lift my car, I'll stick to the 120$ ATF fee at the shop. Just got it done few weeks ago actually. I'm at around 80k miles. more or less
Are you referring to the last picture I showed? That was just for funny information. I don't think you need to do so many changes. If you plan to use a different fluid for the change, then do the drain and fill 3 times just to replace most of the fluid like how I did. You will be fine with doing 2 times as well. If you use OEM, then 2 times would be good. :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 I was just making an observation about the last picture yeah. I'm also wondering about how many flushes it takes to get 5050 coolant to be in cooling system if you can only drain 2 quarts at a time (with a similar 7 quart capacity) so this helps a little.
@@TripDadLife you're saying only 2 quarts come out in a coolant drain for a 6th gen elantra? If that's the case, its a wise idea to do a coolant drain and fill twice at 60K first and then once every 40k intervals. That way the fluid will not go bad. It will constantly be rejuvenated.
Thank you so much. Using aftermarket fluids should not void the warranty. There are laws that protect you from voiding the warranty. But then again, its a whole other topic for debate. :)
Hi please help me I have drain out old oil around 3.5 quarts and I put 4 quarts new oil. It will have any issues after putting extra oil. How will know the 4 quarts is fine?
Today I did change my 2017 Hyundai Sonata ATF I drain all the oil it is almost 4qts and then I filled. I didn't open that black socket overflow which is near drain bolt it is ok ?? and while filling it tooks too much time because the air I fill little by little If I do fast oil comes out? What is the reason?
Hi, what fluid did you use? And did you put back the same amount of fluid in? Maybe the funnel you used was covering the entire fill hole. When this happens, the fluid does not go in easily and bubbles out frequently. It goes in slowly. For my car, I used a smaller funnel and the fill hole was wide. Hence, it went in easily.
@@andy-auto-info2483 I think so funnel is the problem. When I keep straight and tight it won't goes then I kept loose then little by little it goes. Next time I will get more small. Please share your WhatsApp.
@@andy-auto-info2483 check it out .. it is not in details and lot of steps are missing I will make another video soon for this. Please check it out and let me know anything wrong. ua-cam.com/video/jWilqvE2HSQ/v-deo.html
@@thecentralman I also bought from Walmart check it out in my video and let me know you are talking sameone or else. If some other then give me the link I will buy that one.
I looked into the viscosity issue that you mentioned. And unfortunately, since I bought a case of Amsoil Signature Fuel Efficient ATF, the viscosity numbers are worse for the Amsoil. I'm seeing (all at 100C DEG C) Hyundai OEM SP-IV at a viscosity of 5.4, Max Life at 5.9, and Amsoil at a staggering 6.3. Old Hyundai SP-III has a viscosity of about 7.2. The Amsoil Viscosity Index also is poorer than MaxLife, at 159 vs 163. I cannot imagine how going from the much thinner Hyundai fluid to the thicker Amsoil will do anything except reduce MPG, vs improve it. And the Amsoil is waaaaaaaay more expensive. Anyone want to buy what I have left off of me?
I use maxlife atf in my 2010 Elantra that specs sp-iii and I use it in my 2013 Kia Rio that spec sp-IV . Both run great and I’ve done several drain and fills it’s also way cheaper on Amazon ($5.67 a qt) that is sold from the actual valvoline store. Their gallon is same price as Walmart ($17). Amsoil is a waste of money.
I've used valvoline maxlife atf in my 06 Sedona. I'm the original owner and the van has 190k on it and it shifts like new.Drained 4-5 quarts every 30k.
Hello @Andy-Auto-info, i have a Hyundai Elantra 2015 MD with the same looking gearbox, can i do the same procedure ? Another question please, do i need to put new fluid after the first and the second change or reuse the same as the first change ?
@Akram Zairig yes. You can do the same procedure. And you do not need to file the fill port because for 2015 models, it comes out easily. And use fresh fluid all the time. Do not reuse the fluids :) If you see my video, I used about 9 quarts to do this. I used fresh fluid all the time. Also, see the excel sheet at the end :) let me know if you have any questions.
The new Generation Hyundai models with this transmission does not need a transmission filter change. There is a transmission filter but that is somewhere inside the transmission and is very hard to access. Even the dealers do not change it unless there is some major problem and it has to be changed.
Instead of changing the oil 3 times why not pull the sump out and clean all the big metal bits sitting button of the sump and replace your filter too it would still be cheaper than changing your oil 3 times better inspection and better for your transmission too. it's not a good sign if you're getting metal bits in your transmission oil that means you have bigger pieces in bottom of sump not a good sign at 30k at least
I think you got it wrong. It is very much normal to have metak pieces during the first transmission change. That is from the break in of the transmission. This transmission does not have a sump and this is one way to change fluid. Another way is by a complete flush but that could do damage to the transmission. 3x filling was to replace old fluid completely by the new one, as much as I can :)
It should be the same type of fluid. The latest one is SP-IVM. Could you check your manual what it says for transmission fluid? If you're draining and filling, you may require upto 4 quarts of oil like seen in the video. Thanks.
@@andy-auto-info2483 Checked Manual MICHANG ATF SP-IV, SK ATF SP-IV, NOCA ATF SP-IV, HYUNDAI genuine ATF SP-IV or other brands meeting the above specification approved by HYUNDAI Motor Co.
I think you said 30 foot-pounds. I thinking it is 20 to 30 inch. 30 foot pounds would be 15 pounds of force pushed on a 2 foot wrench. Did not look like you did 15 pounds of push. I look the amount up and found 20 to 30 inch poounds . BUT please check me. Thanks Good video. I am going to do a double change Just like you. I using Aisin SP4. Rock Auto.
@@xThat1dude you're that one dude. Lovely. I've replied to many already. It was the hexagonal bolt that was blocking the cap. Not the gear shifter. I tried moving the gears, it did not work. :)
I changed my fluid last week, no problems other than I didn't have the right size crush washer. And for some reason, I didn't measure the old one before I reinstalled it. Do you have the size of that washer? I'm guessing it's around 24 mm. The Hyundai part number is 21513-11000 but doesn't give the size. Don't feel like paying $10 for one, shipped from Hyundai. I used Aisin SP4 fluid from Rock Auto.
I tried this. It did not work. Also, it is not the shift selector coming in the way. It is the thick hexagonal bolt under the shift selector coming in the way. Hope that helps.
That is the shifter assembly. You have a good point. But I did not want to touch this because of calibration concerns. And they normally have very specific torques for smooth shifts and I did not want to risk it. Also, FYI, some people were able to get the fill bolt off easily and some like me, faced this issue. So fingers crossed :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 ah ok..understandable. I have the '18 GT model so hopefully mine will be lil easier to get it out. The air intake is already out lol I swapped it for a cold air intake
@@alexceja696 k thx for the update. I noticed now if precise replacement needs to be done, I would use a pencil and outline that curve on the plate, drawing on the base. And mark off each side the bolts attached to it, so i would know exactly its position put back on
hi first of all thanks because video really helpful, i also have a question may you can answer, i have 2018 Elantra Gl Se. i could not find which transmission need. can you help me
Thank you Yasir. Which country is this in? Is it Canada? Do you have the 6 speed automatic? If so, the car is exactly same as mine, so you should be good :)
There is a transmission filter. Its basically a screen type filter. It is very hard to replace it. But that's not a problem, keeping the transmission fluid as clean as possible by doing regular drain and fills every 30k miles will make it last minimum 200k miles in my book. :) The filter could be a non servicable one. So don't worry about it :)
Since there is no pan, you can't drop the pan and access the filter like traditional non-modern transmissions. Its somewhere inside and might be difficult to get to it.
Yes. You can do that. But it is a smaller hole, so make sure you have extensions on the hose of your pump. Also, lets say 3 quarts come out. Pump back 3.5 quarts. Immediately close the cap. Check fluid level as per the instructions on my pinned comment :)
@@matthewdegennaro2604 that is wonderful. Can you share the product link? Also, how many quarts came out? How much did you add back in? Did you check thr fluid level?
www.harborfreight.com/Fluid-Siphon-Pump-62613.html I am actually going to be posting a video of me doing this on my public channel where I perform this procedure on my 2017 Sonata. I haven’t done my 3rd drain yet though
I have a question. Would it be a good idea to drain and refill Transmission fluid once every 10k miles instead of doing it 3 times at once every 30k miles? Because if it's fine to do it, then I wouldn't mind doing it every 2nd oil change. Gets rid of hassle of jacking up two more times just for transmission fluid drain. Because this way, I can set a day where I can do oil change, transmission drain, and tire rotation all at once every 10k miles. I do oil change every 5k miles. I have 2019 Hyundai Elantra SEL and it's already at 36k miles. I plan to do transmission drain 3x on my 40k mile mark along with tire rotation and oil change. After that, I plan to do it once every 10k miles. Any input on this idea?
That is an interesting question. Since you have 36k miles, you can do what you said without any issues. But if the fluid looks very dirty after the first drain (use your intuition), then I would recommend you do a drain and fill 2 times (driving about 50-100 miles in between). That way you can get rid off most of the old dirty fluid. If you are using OEM fluid, then 2 times is sufficient. You do not need a 3rd drain and fill. I did it 3 times mainly to replace 80%+ fluid with new and because I was using a non-OEM (Amsoil) fluid and I did not want any mixing issues (But I learned from my oil analysis that mixing fluid did not cause any damage to the fluid). But as you saw from my video, after 2 drain and fills, the fluid looked to be in good condition. Additionally, my oil analysis said that the fluid was in perfect condition. Hope this helps. :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 Definitely helped. On my upcoming transmission oil change for the first time on my 2019 Hyundai Elantra, I plan to do it 3 times the way you did it. After that, I might just flush every 10k. I used to do transmission fluid change on my 2003 Acura TL and it was easier than regular oil change. This one is no different. Only hassle I'm gonna have is bottom bumper cover on and off but it's well worth it because it protects the parts. I learned from your statements regarding the oil. I was close to using Valvoline MaxATF because that's what I used on my 2003 Acura TL Type-S since all it required was Z1, so MaxATF worked fair enough. But it is quite skeptical that a viscosity that works on my old 2003 acura tl would also work on 2019 modern hyundai elantra. So I'm taking your advice and gonna go buy AMSOIL OE Fuel Efficient ATF even though I have 3 gallons of MaxATF. I'll prolly save MaxLife for a different car or if I know any of my friends who will need it.
@@cocourth5611 I am glad you understood what I had to say regarding viscosity. It very important to get that right. I had a 2001 Honda civic myself and I was using the Z1 fluid. Thats how I knew that these modern cars use a thinner viscosity fluids. And after 3 drain and fill procedures, you are good for another 30-40k miles. You can just do 1 or 2 drain and fill every 40k miles after the initial 3 time drain/fill procedure. That should keep the tranny healthy for a very long time. And true synthetic ATFs last a long time which is good. Also, do not forget to use the level check plug to make sure the fluid is at the correct level. Good luck! Do share your experience after the change here. Someday all this info will help others. :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 Definitely. When I get to 39k-40k, Im gonna do transmission fluid change. Before then, I need to buy the parts. Will need to buy crush washer, amsoil atf.
@@cocourth5611 did you buy it new or was it a used rental? I'm doing mine around 20k because I drive 90% city, lots of acceleration/deceleration because of my area's dumb traffic light sequence
Is that not the shift lever that was blocking the drain plug? If so, why not just move the shifter out of the way. Aka put into neutral.. maybe I’m missing something
Shift selector is not the only thing. You see the big hexagon looking bolt that's holding the shift selector? That's blocking the fill port. I did not want to mess with the calibration by turning/moving it :)
I tried, it did not work. Moreover, the shift selector was not in the way. There is another hexagon looking bolt under the selector which was coming in the way of fill plug. Hope that makes sense :) Some folks, this was not coming in the way and were able to remove the plug easily.
Sorry for noob question. When you drain/add transmission fluid the car supposed to be leveled, correct? So, suppose I put Elantra on 4 jack stands and engage parking brake when I’m doing this procedure. Would it be safe to start the car, go through gears while car is off the ground??
Thank you for posting this video. I used it as a guide to drain and fill my own 2018 Hyundai Elantra. For those who are looking to change out their ATF, here are some additional comments & observations:
1. @ 0:28 popping the 2 rivets and removing the manifold makes it very easy to remove the air filter box.
2. @3:00 Shift the car to Neutral or Drive to rotate the lever plate if needed
3. @03:22- Another option is to Remove the two bolts that secure the shift mounting plate (the plate that interferes with the fill plug). Rotate the plate clockwise about 10 and the fill plug will come right out (after using a socket extension to loosen it). Obviously, don't forget to re-center the plate, then re-install and tighten the two bolts after the fill plug has been re-installed.
4. Use a 24mm socket to loosen and remove the drain plug
5. I used Valvoline Max Life ATF - I checked with Valvoline directly and they said it meets Hyundai SP4 ATF specs.
6. I bought the crush washer from a Hyundai dealer parts counter - About $3 each (PN 45323-39000). Looks like 18mm ID, 24 mm OD. Buy 2 so you'll have one for the next fluid change.
7. My ATF was pretty close to black after 50,300 miles. The maintenance manual calls out ATF replacement at 60K miles.
8. I tightened the drain plug to 30 ft-lbs with a torque wrench. I contacted the Hyundai dealer about the torque spec and they told me they did not know...which means they didn't want to tell me. SMH :(
9. I drained out 3.25 quarts so I added back 3.25 quarts
10. The car runs better and I'll drive it for a bit before repeating this exercise.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I am glad it worked out for you. Cheers! 😊
You can move the shift bar out of the way by accessing the shift/lock/release button inside the car at the shifter, which will alloow you to move the shifter out of park to any other position.
I will try this next time. Thanks. :)
On D, P or neutral?
@@123pojke d
That is not what was in the way,
@@andy-auto-info2483 Hi please help me I have drain out old oil around 3.5 quarts and I put 4 quarts new oil. It will have any issues after putting extra oil. How will know the 4 quarts is fine? Or I have to drain .5 quarts please suggest
This is an incredibly well done instructional video. Very thorough and well edited. I wish they were all like yours. Now...off to do this procedure on my '17. THANK YOU!
Thanks for your comment Chris. Means a lot. Good luck with your fluid change. Let me know how it went :)
Totally 👍👍agree thank you sir
Truly. Comment how did it go..
I felt the same way
This video was very helpful. I just drained & filled my 2018 Elantra. It has 100k+ miles, but I decided to do it anyway. I opted for the Valvoline MaxLife ATF, and so far so good. My transmission was always smooth, but if it's possible, it's even smoother now.
With regard to the fill plug, I decided to file a notch in it like in this video, however I only needed to file a very small piece in order to get it out. It was very close to coming out without any filing. So if you're watching this video and you're worried about filing it down, don't be, it only takes a couple minutes. You don't have to take that much off at all.
Any update/issues since doing it. I have factory fluid in my 18 at 92k miles and am planning to do it this weekend.Am a bit worried so was just gonna do 1 drain and fill and than after about 2-3k miles do another.
I was able to easily remove the fill plug on my '17 Elantra 2.0 without filing a clearance cut. The trick was to not just pull straight up but pull it at a slight angle away from the interfering tab. By angling the plug, it looked like there was only a tiny (< 1mm) interference. I did not feel like I was even coming close to damaging the plug and only needed to pull with a slight force. Ambient temp was ~80 deg F, so warmer temps may help here. I tried putting the plug back on and it was much more difficult, so I did cut a very shallow semi circular clearance cut with the plug on the work bench. Only took about 2 minutes to file a ~1mm half moon cut with the plug out. Now it re-installs easily. Thanks for the detailed video and being a pioneer on this procedure.
That's good to know. I tried all angles and it did not budge unfortunately. Maybe its the warmer weather like you said, ha ha. Glad it worked out for you and happy to help. Cheers! :)
@Andy-Auto-Info A few more notes: If it looks like plug has a large interference with the offending tab, keep rotating it slowly in ~10 deg increments and rechecking the interference. You'll see that the interference goes to almost nothing at 2 angular positions of the plug (located 180 deg apart). This is due to the 2 slots cut into the bottom part of the plug (also located 180 deg. apart) The slots allow more "tilt" of the plug when oriented correctly. Hope this makes sense. Note 2: I let my fluid drain for almost 3 hours after warming up the fluid with a 10min drive. I was able to get almost a gallon drained out. (~3.9 quarts) Note 3: I used Valvoline maxlife --I understand your reasons for not, though. So far, shifting is smooth as silk.
@@cgatito3528 That is good to know. Cheers!! :)
Brilliant instructional video. Best I've seen. Bright, detailed, clean, clear.
I'm going to do this procedure this weekend. I'm going to loosen the vent plug but I'm not going to file and remove it. I'm going to refill the fluid in the fill hole where you checked the level, using a hose.
Your diligence is commendable and you're doing what 99% of vehicle owners don't do, but 3x after just 30k miles is a little overkill. Every 30k miles is fine.
Thanks Mitch. I understand its overkill. I did it to replace most of the old fluid with new fluid. Infact, with the lab results, I found that mixing does not do any harm to the transmission fluid. So 2X would have been just fine :)
You can read my pinned comment. I have more information there. Thanks :)
Thank you so much for posting this video. Oddly, the manual mentions there is no need to change the ATF if driven under normal conditions, and we all know how that goes. I have to say you are very brave for attempting this, and a job well done. Kudos!
Thank you Sonnet. Definitely, there is no such thing as a lifetime fluid. :)
That is a deceitful statement from Hyundai. When the sh!t hits the fan, they will just say "we said under normal conditions" That means you should be driving on glass and the wind is always pushing your back.
Very very well made video. For the fill plug, loosen the two 10 mm bolts of the shifter and slightly turn it, the plug will be free. That worked well for me. I wouldn't worry about the shifter position, just mark where it was and rotate it back to the same spot.
Could you also leave it in neutral with the parking brake on?
This is exactly what works for me.
I can't believe I shared this video to my friends but didn't have u subscribed. 😔 I just subscribed right now. Thank you again for the wonderful video. I showed this video to few of my friends who have a same car and they are surprised how easy it is to replace the fluid. Because of how people say transmission is "sealed" and that u gotta take it to the good mechanic or a dealer. I show this video and they are surprised how easily u do it and I even let them use my extension socket and they were able to do it. I will keep sharing this video.
Thank you for the support. Appreciate it. :)
Excellent edited. Very clear. One of the best videos on UA-cam .
Thank you my friend. Appreciate the feedback :)
I got lucky I guess I wiggled my bolt and it came right out with no filing needed. I ended up using Valvoline ATF it’s SP-IV. Seems to run smoother I’ll know after 2nd and 3rd time. Thank you so much for your video.
That is wonderful. Did you do the 2nd and 3rd time? How was your experience?
How has your experience been with the valvoline?
For the filling cap you can easily put the gear shifter on D by realesing gear shifter
Hi Ali,
I tried that.
The shift selector was not in the way. There is another hexagon looking bolt under the selector which was coming in the way of fill plug. So irrespective of what gear you are on, the hexagon bolt does not change its position. Hope that makes sense :)
You did not need to file that
Amazing video , thanks so much for the detailed and easy to follow steps!! About to pull the trigger on a 17 elantra with 61k miles so I’m looking to do an ATF change asap . Will definitely be referencing this video and your pinned updated comment. Thank you!!
EDIT: when checking the ATF level, you mentioned the temp needs to be 120-140°; that’s from the reading on the temperature gauge inside the car?
Also, do you remember where you got the filing tool for the fill plug? I know I can refill through the level check hole, but one of the steps to checking the fluid level is to remove the plug so I’ll have to do it anyway.
Hi Malik, Thank you for your appreciation. Means a lot.
Checking the temperature of the fluid cannot be done using the gauge inside because you cannot tell. To do so, use a Infrared temperature gun (20$ in Amazon) and measure the temperature of the drain bolt when the car is at level and running, gear in P. When the temperature of drain bolt hits 120 F, you can be sure that the temperature inside the transmission and the fluid temperature will be between 120 and 130 F. At this point, remove the check plug and let the excess fluid come out. When you see a small steady stream, close the check plug and you are set! :)
I feel re-filling via check plug might make it messy. And you may need a special plug to insert inside the hole. Just FYI :)
I got the filing set from Home Depot (Husky tools are awesome value) - www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Steel-Precision-File-Set-with-Storage-Case-6-Piece-707476H/207112197?cm_mmc=ecc-_-
All the best! Let me know how it goes :)
I did not have to file mine. Keep turning while pulling upwards slowly
@@thecentralman Right. Don't file nothing. It's a new car, there is no reason to go modifying stuff to achieve this procedure. I've seen this fill plug removed quite easily with no filling . Other then that, Get the car Level to begin with or don;t do the work, thats just asking for trouble. Level.
I used the check plug above the drain plug. Not necessary to remove the air box. And not necessary to modify anything
Yes. You can pump fluid into the check plug. I have already included that procedure in my pinned comment. :)
OMG, I nearly shit myself when he got the file out. On to the next video.
I posted my comment on a similar video, so I figured I'd put it here as well:
I just did this at 58k on my 2017 Elantra GT. I don't see much content revolving around the GT, but this and similar videos worked well enough for me, though there are a few differences:
1. I didn't need to remove my splash cover to access the drain bolt, but I did anyway for the sake of doing it the first time. When I started, I realized I could see the drain bolt right away and the cover wasn't in the way. I think next time I will leave the cover on and see how that works for me. Though I'll probably have to take it off to check the level so I may be stuck with removing it, haha.
2. The fill bolt on my GT is the screw-in kind. It tightens all the way down, and I had to unscrew it for a bit to get it out. It's not a half or quarter-turn like on the sedans.
3. I did not have to file down or cut my fill bolt in any way - that part you had trouble with isn't in the way so I had no problems getting it out. :)
4. When I unscrewed my drain bolt, it did not have a crush washer, which I thought was strange. I added a copper washer and torqued to 30lb/ft as suggested.
As I said, I did this at 58k miles. The fluid was pretty dark but not burnt - still a little red/pinkish in tint. I ran out of daylight so I did not get a chance to check the level, but I drained four quarts roundabouts and I put four quarts back in. Tomorrow when I have sunlight I'll add a little more fluid and check the level. Thanks for your clarification on that process, by the way.
Hope this helps any fellow GT owners out there. I'll try to document my experience as well - maybe record something though I never have before. :p After checking the level tomorrow, I'll probably drive around for a couple of hundred miles before a second drain. I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF - it claims to be up to spec and the most important thing for me was getting this fluid changed, so I'm hopeful it'll work just fine, especially after reading that other GT owners use it.
Update: Checked my level at operating temperature and got a small steady stream. :) Woo!
Hi Denise, thank you for the wonderful input. I'm sure it will help GT owners.
Yes, the methodology of drain and fill is similar but the design of splash covers and location of transmission could be different. For Elantra non GT models, we have to remove the splash covers like how I did.
Thank you once again! :)
Put the car in neutral and you’ll be able to get that plastic bolt out. Valvoline is just fine. No need for amsoil
Dude all u had to do was to put the car in neutral. U needs to give it up
Best Video that I Have seen so Far. Very Nice 👍 👌 😉 😌 😁
Thanks for the appreciation Jorge. I'm glad to hear that. 😊👍
Take off the 2 size 10 mm bolts on the throttle body and you can shift it over to get the fill plug out. With having to file it.
****ALL UPDATES / FOLLOWUPS GOES HERE****
***47k miles now. Shifts like Butter! Next drain/fill at 60k. Update Video will be made!***
Follow up Video here - ua-cam.com/video/w7mYgrWWit8/v-deo.html Transmission Fluid playlist here - ua-cam.com/play/PL1j1gyvwIm1XWFImRpBazNAkf72I2ab0X.html
1. Honestly, the process is easy. If you can do an oil change, you can do this. Just need to have patience and do the steps slowly. This was my first time as well and it was an enjoyable experience. 1st time I took my own sweet time to do it. 2nd and 3rd time I knew exactly what needs to be done, I did it very quickly! ha ha :)
2. IMPORTANT - I would recommend using the Level plug to check the fluid level (Making sure the car is at level). To do so, add about 0.5 quarts extra in the transmission. Use a Infrared temperature gun (20$ in Amazon) and measure the temperature of the drain bolt when the car is at level and running, gear in P. When the temperature of drain bolt hits 120 F, you can be sure that the temperature inside the transmission and the fluid temperature will be between 120 and 140 F. At this point, remove the check plug and let the excess fluid come out. When you see a small steady stream, close the check plug and you are DONE! :)
Here's what happened. I did not spill a single drop of fluid and measured the fluid as accurately as possible. I added 0.2 Qts extra at the end as well. There was no issues with shifting as you saw at the end of the video and did no harm. I just wanted to check the level using the level check just to be sure. Went to a local mechanic, he checked it in front of me It was low. Had to add 0.3-0.4 quarts in order to get to the right level. He actually pumped the fluid in using the level check hole, so even that can be done to fill the fluid (It could get messy by this method, so I would stick to filling the fluid via the fill hole at the top). It is all good now. Still shifts like butter! I wonder if the factory fill was under-filled a little??? Or does the tranny fluid evaporate over time??? I did my research, it actually does not. Some websites say it does!! Any idea??? Strange - huh! :D :)
3. Some folks have mentioned that the fill plug came out easily for 2017-2019 Elantras. At the same time, there are folks like me that had bad luck and had to file in order to open. So fingers crossed!
4. OIL ANALYSIS - I received the results of the oil analysis of the sample I took from the 3rd drain. The fluid was a mixture of 65% new amsoil fluid and 35% of old Hyundai SP-IV fluid. The fluid was 100% alright without any Metallic compounds present and the fluid was in excellent condition. This means that, all the break in materials were flushed out after 2 drain and fill procedures and also proves that mixing fluids does no harm to the fluid! But a 3rd drain and fill is recommended to put most of the new fluid in and keep it real clean :) Cheers! Let me know if you have any questions! :)
I really liked your explanations I got 2017 elentra. Gl model I would like to know how many quarters of transmission oil needed as well on your video while you changed the transmission oil after three 200
Miles driving back you changed it is it mandatory to do it or once it’s done no need to change it again
@@brethart4938 Hi Bret, I used 9.5 quarts of transmission oil total. If the car is at level, you could get 3.5-4.5 quarts of transmission fluid out. So keep around 5 quarts for one drain and fill procedure. My car was not at level when I did this because of which only 3 quarts came out.
Andy-Auto-Info thanks a lot ohh in total for cars like elentra Hyundai gl 2017 how many I do need to buy transmission fluid bottles I mean and while changing the transmission oil how can I get the whole amount out at once so is it gonna be fine if I change I don’t need worry about level stuff as you mentioned what’s the reason about level while you can release only three 3.5 quarters of from transmission any other way to get the old oil from transmission out at once how can I avoid the level issue thanks
@@brethart4938 The total capacity of the transmission fluid is 7.1 quarts. If you do a drain and fill, you only take out about 50% of the old fluid. If you do not want to use the level check plug, measure how much fluid came out very accurately and put the same amount back in. By doing the drain and fill procedure 2-3 times, you get 80-90% of the old fluid replaced with new. You can check the video at 23:07 mins for more information.
Also, by doing a drain and fill, you cannot get all the fluid out at once. If you want to do that, you will have to take it to a mechanic and do a flush. But flushing is not a safe option in my opinion. :)
Andy-Auto-Info thanks brother your the best *******
Thanks for the video can you do a video on the proper way to jack up this Elantra safely using jack and jack stands. Lift points thanks
Thank you. Sure, I'll do that next time when I take this video. For now, there is a pause from my side in making videos. :) I'll definitely be doing a transmission fluid change at 60k miles.
you did an amazing job explaining and showing everything
Thanks James.
Would like to see a video on changing the transmission filter, as well.
Sir if you went in the car place the parking brake on ,, make sure that you block the rear tires then place the transmission shifter into Drive engine off”” then would be able to remove the transmission filler plug without filling it out
Very well done I like your analysis of everything. Yeah I'm not sure about that viscosity issue. I think there are different s p e c s just for that reason. Thanks for choosing a true chemically engineered synthetic fluid as well. Group 4 and group 5 much better than group 3 hydrocracked petroleum which the courts ruled you can call this synthetic.
Absolutely. Thanks Mike. :)
Thank you for that excellent video. Best one out for that job. Will do it exactly like you did.
Thank you Gerald! Appreciate it.
I was just getting ready to say, if you would have put it in neutral and hold that emergency brake up that shifter linkage wouldn’t have been on your way and you wouldn’t have had to file down that bolt
I flushed out 4.75 quarts out on my 2017 Elantra. I started it with drain plug off. And ran it though gears quickly then shut off. Did you change the Filter yet. Is it under the pan-- easy access. Nice video. Thank you.
I was able to remove the plug. takes a little fiddling. I did two drain and fill last November. One about two weeks back and will do one again soon.
Very thorough explanation of ever step. Good video for beginners.
Thank you. That was my intention. 😊
Very helpful and thoughtful presentation. For some of us who are hearing impaired, subtitles would be helpful. Thank you!
Hi Robert,
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback. I'll definitely look into adding subtitles and update the video soon. :)
Good video Sr. Thanks to share. Just one question. At 14:07, is it necessary to start the engine for this steps? Regards
In addition, I am wanting a clarification on the filling location: OK so there is ACTUALLY TWO (2) Fill plugs that I see people using! One is under the Air Box (after removal) and this plastic plug is actually the "VENT" for the transmission CORRECT? The factory "FILL HOLE" is towards the rear and a metal 24MM plug like the 24MM metal drain plug -- CORRECT? Does the Manufacturer (or dealer) use the PLASTIC VENT PLUG or the METAL FILL PLUG Location to add fluid? That is my question!
very good video deserves more credit I will tackle the hyundai know!.
Thank you for the comment! :)
You can re-use the washer many times if you don't tighten it too much and turn it to the other side. I have done it many times in my Elantra 2008 and Kia soul 2012
You can definitely do that if the washer is re-usable. You do get re-usable washers. Generally, crush washers are used for one-time purposes. The thickness in mm is drastically reduced once you tighten it. If used multiple times, there are chances that it may crack and the fluid may start to leak. Especially if you torque the bolt to specs. Feel free to re-use at your risk. There are chances that it will develop crack and leak. We should not ignore cheap insurance. Thanks :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 I repeat it again, I use it many times and the washer is wherever you call use one-time. The problem is you. You don't know how to use the torque specs. all people and mechanics I see on these youtube videos use the max specs, that is not what specs mean. If it says 28 to 35, why the heck you put 35 ft-lb?
@@irisbaez1972 iris..stfu. The man is here teaching.
Ok..I see the shift selector arm on the trans is blocking the fill plug..Safety block the tires/Shift lock release to move shifter from P to N or other to clear access fill plug..
Excellent video. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Good video! However I do not understand why you have not changed the transmission filter?
Thank you. But the new Generation Hyundai models does not need a transmission filter change. There is a transmission filter but that is somewhere inside the transmission and is very hard to access. Even the dealers do not change it. :)
Hey Andy, I'm proceeding to replace for 1st time the transmission fluid and I'm reading on the manual of my 2017 Elantra limited engine 2.0 that the transmission requires 7.08 US qts is this a bigger transmission (more than double US qts)?
Not all of the oil will come out when you drain it. There is more oil trapped in the transmission. so just measure the oil that comes out, and replace what's needed just like he did in the video.
Hi. Thank you for posting this video! Well done!! It's really bad engineering that we have to file part of the fill bolt away just to change the trans fluid. I wonder if you could gain enough clearance to remove the bolt if you partially unbolted that shifting assembly (or whatever it is) that's blocking the removal of the bolt without causing a problem for yourself? I may visit my local Hyundai dealer and try to talk with one of the mechanics (if they'll do that) and ask him/her what the secret is to getting that cap/bolt off without having to take a file to it. IF they talk with me and I find anything out, I'll post back.
Hi Tom,
Thank you. :)
Yep, the design is unfortunate. The part that's blocking may be the shifter assembly and could be a crucial part. Check with Hyundai folks whether that can be removed and put back the same way without any calibration. If that part is sensitive, do not touch it. Filing is a safer option. Also, I did not use too much force to file. Just takes time & patience. :)
Hi Tom,
Did you get a chance to talk tk hyundai dealership regarding this? Curious about it. Ha ha :)
I don't own this vehicle but I'm pretty sure you could of just simply shifted the transmission into N, this would move that lever out of the way.
I wonder which transmission line going into the transmission is the correct one that I can find a good tool removal area. I like the idea to drain, fill, run the engine while sticking the line into a clear bottle to catch what fluid comes from the torque converter and goes through a radiator tank or cooler, then stop when the bottle holds about a quart, add a new quart to the transmission and repeat the process a few times. A second person is needed to start and stop the engine quickly, even shifting through the gears a bit.
I did this with my Subaru and it was very easy (3 cycles of the process). This way I was sure to get out a good amount of old fluid before resorting to driving again and simply mixing the new with the old. **Anyone have photos of the specific line that goes into the trans after it has performed the cooling cycle and is about to go into the trans functioning process?**
By the way, bluetooth OBD2 readers connect to the OBD2 port and read to phone apps and SOME read the fluid temp. I use a BAFX reader with an app called CAR SCANNER PRO and / or ACTIVEOBD. Both apps work fine but the Car Scanner Pro connects with less effort. ActiveOBD often requires a phone restart, as in power down restart.
Well done, brother! Great video! Jesus is Lord; God bless to you and your family!
Thank you, appreciate it. May god bless you and your family too. :)
the dealer has a machine that sucks all of the fluid out of the trans including the torque converter, that is the correct way to do a trans service.
That method is called a flush. It has its own drawbacks. If you research more on google, you will find that sometimes flushing a transmission may cause damage.
You know there is an overflow valve that let's you know when you have filled to the correct level. You don't actually need to measure what you have drained out.
Yes, absolutely. I've mentioned that in the video. :)
Its good to know for us who have a jack raising the car thus making it impossible to have a leveled car.
Hyundai Elantra 2019 DOHC SEL engine 2.0
Which type of transmission fluid is won't ?
How much liter s and quarters ?
Please Clarification on the subject ?
Thanks
Hi Hersh,
It should be the same type SP-IV. Check your owner's manual, you will find the info as well.
For a drain and fill, it would be around 2.8-3.2 quarts per drain. The total capacity of the transmission should be 7.1 quarts. I don't think its changed for the 2019 model, you can check owners manual to confirm.
Please watch the entire video, you will definitely understand the process. Cheers :)
Put parking brake on. Key in/ power on. But don't start car. Move gear selector through range to find stop ehere the fill plug clears better.
Put in Park, move shifter in different position move that level out of the way.
Amsoil is a good fluid, but you're playing with fire using something other than OEM trans fluid, especially with Hyundai. Hyundai/KIA new about the engine fires and the TSB said to decline all engines that caught on fire and to blame it on aftermarket oil filters. Took 4000 fires, 4 dead bodies, a class action lawsuit, federal judge and 1.5 years of litigation. Magnuson-Moss Act is a joke. Good luck if you have trans work that needs to be done and they find Amsoil in it. And yes, I have a 2019 Sorento and I'll be using SP-IV. Out of warranty, Amsoil is good. In warranty? OEM fluid and filters.
I appreciate your opinion.
Engines caught fire, yes, I know! But i'm sure it is not because of the oils/filters used! Unless they were really cheap! Who knows! Those were faulty engines from Hyundai. But they've come a long way since then. The 2.0 MPI engine is solid. Non GDI and so easy to maintain.
But regarding transmission in general, I have done tons of research and i'm pretty sure the transmission does not fail if you use non-OEM fluids as long as they are compatible with the spec/viscosity, especially good quality fluids like Amsoil. Transmissions fail because of so many other factors like -
1.Changing the fluid late/Not changing the fluid
2. Suddenly using a quality synthetic with high detergents when seals are already worn out and then tranny leaks all over the place.
3. Manufacturing defect of a transmission
4. Driving in sever conditions like most of us do and not changing the fluid often - which is the main cause of failures these days.
5. Heat! - (Main cause for CVT failures)
Now, I am confident that my tranny will definitely last minimum of 100,000 miles or more and hence I am not worried about the warranty!
Her journey will be tracked on my channel for many years to come. :)
Apologies if I gave out too much info, i'm sure you are already aware of these facts and more :)
I changed my 14 Kia Sorento at 30k with Amsoil 2 times. 50k miles later smooth as butter. Amsoil is the best. You won’t have any issues
@@bcar1ify Thank you for the input Bob :)
Obviously, all you had to do is shift it out of park.... Sorry, but something tells me you need more experience with these things before telling others how to work on their cars 😂😂 The rest of the video is fine, thanks, but I would use genuine hyundai transmission fluid. Fluid changes are so seldom, why not use that which is specified by the manufacturer?
Very good video, keep up the good work friend
Thanks Mikey, appreciate your comment.
Great video!!
It's funny how he tries to reshape that tranny fill plug with something sharp. You can set your car in neutral next so you can move that shift lever out of the way. Now just loosen those 2 bolts holding that silver cap. Slightly give it a twist so your feel plug can come out. There is a shift lock as well. I'm gonna point this out, very important. So with the tranny drain plug. To loosen, it will be clockwise not counter clockwise. 24 mm bolt.
Definitely funny. :)
How many quarts did you have to buy? This will be the first time I will be doing this to my 2018 Elantra and would like to know how many quarts I should buy. Great video thanks for the information!!
Thank you! I had bought about 10 Quarts. But if you are using OEM fluid, doing this 2 times should be sufficient at 30k miles. :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 okay thanks, so my car is at almost 60k and I have never done it since owning the vehicle. I bought it at 24k miles, what is the difference between flush and just draining it and replacing it with new oil?
@@andy-auto-info2483 also is there a transmission filter for this vehicle?
@@SXTHGEN I would not recommend a flush. Usually, for Hyundai transmissions, they force the old fluid out and add the new fluid simultaneously. A machine does this. And all the metallic particles are forcefully pushed out and may damage the gears or components inside. You can research more on this online, you'll definitely find lot of articles.
By draining and filling, there is no risk at all. And also you get an opportunity to clean all the break in materials captured by rhe magnet. Doing this 2 or 3 times makes sure you replace most of the old fluid by new. Check out the end of the video for a tiny analysis and check my pinned comment for more info. Thanks :)
@@SXTHGEN also, there is a transmission filter inside and is usually not changed by Hyundai. It is very hard to service that and even the dealers do not do that. Regularly maintaining the fluid and keeping it clean should be enough. :)
Any one know what crush washer seal size for 2019 Elantra 2.0, transmission drain plug side
How many miles should i drive in between drains? Always 200?
Damn, I better do this soon. I got 70k on my '18. Runs great though
Yeah. Better to be safe than sorry!
Andy --- How many miles did you have when you made the fluid change?
Also -- I looked on AMSOIL site -- I have a 2019 Elantra SE 1.4L with the Dual Clutch Transmission, and at 55,000 miles, (according to my owner's manual) I see AMSOIL does not have a listing for the FLUID? What am missing ?
Thank you for the detailed video! I'm getting ready to perform this service on my 2017 Elantra and wanted to ask about the ramps you use. I've always used my jack and jack stands when doing oil changes but am thinking of investing in some ramps to make things a bit easier and allow me to keep the vehicle better leveled. I've browsed a bit on amazon but would appreciate your recommendation. Thanks again!
Thank you for the feedback.
I used Rhino Ramps. This one costed me $30, its a good one.
@@andy-auto-info2483 I just completed this service the past weekend. I performed two drains/fill. My Elantra has over 105k miles, about over 75% of those are highway miles I would approximate. No issues so far even after performing the service well past the suggested mileage. Thank you again for the detailed video. I wanted to provide my experience with the fill plug for anyone who comes across this video later and looks at the comments like I did. I was able to remove the plug relatively easy by loosening it first and then keeping my extension in and pulling back on the plug with a little force, not much but this was enough to remove the plug without having to file anything down.
@@Finite121 that's good to know. I'm glad this has helped you DIY successfully :)
The torque wrench does not work/measure torque when removing bolts.
What did you just take the shifter cable and move it and mark it down so you know where it is and did it that way? Why destroy the bolt? It’s not how you do it.
Thank You for this detailed video. Would this process also apply to a 2017 Sonata?
You're welcome.
Definitely it would. Just make sure the quantity of fluid that will be used to replace. It definitely will be more.
And the fill cap may not require any filing, it may open easily. So please check this first.
Also, if you can see the fill cap, drain bolt and fluid level check plug, then it's the same process :)
I couldnt find any socket wrench set in which I will get 10mm 17mm for oil and 24mm for ATF drain all in one set.
The tool kit I used was this - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DP4TQX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is currently unavailable.
But these are good for oil change and other fixes. Comes very handy - Please see my full message.
1. www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z3968Y/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B074Z3968Y&pd_rd_w=RAp6q&pf_rd_p=a64be657-55f3-4b6a-91aa-17a31a8febb4&pd_rd_wg=jf3HF&pf_rd_r=SGY7VB9144SJBXMCZRW4&pd_rd_r=23296c04-2d3a-42e9-ad67-d0da10100f44&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyT1NWQ0VTOUpOU1ZEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDEzNDkwMUU0NFkxUDlHQ1pYNCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDkyNjU1MVAzS0tYN05BNEtaOCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
2. www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6RYWW8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?pd_rd_i=B07V6RYWW8&pd_rd_w=3NEQ0&pf_rd_p=a64be657-55f3-4b6a-91aa-17a31a8febb4&pd_rd_wg=Ozd7S&pf_rd_r=M2FE2A9DRFJGD692R3V2&pd_rd_r=9b1914d8-1f54-41fa-957c-59ccac024234&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzME1KSFBRMUhRMDkyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTE1MDMwMUM5NVcwT1VRT0xXOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzA2MTExMTRJMFRBTUxBWU5QSyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
Torque Wrench I used -
3. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZVQVSY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For transmission Drain bolt socket - This should attach to Torque Wrench because it is 3/8th Inch drive and also other wrenches from the toolkits 1 and 2 mentioned above.
4. www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-15-16-in-6-Point-SAE-Standard-Socket-H3D6P1516/202913497
All u have to do select d shifter from inside the car
Please see the video correctly. Shifter was not blocking the fill plug. It was the big hexagonal bolt under the shifter that was blocking it. And this bolt does not move when you change gears. Hope that makes sense.
Zeroing my mileage meter and filling up right before getting n the highway. I can do 78 mph with three people in the car and AC on and it will read 125 miles later 44 miles per gallon. Actual the best doing that was going in slow and go traffic at 45 to 55 in morning to other side of town and got 55 MPG. What have you gotten. I have 2017 Elantra. Great Video. Thanks.
Wow. See, having clean tranny fluid goes a long way. I have 4 simple questions for you. At how many miles did you change your fluid? Which fluid did you use? Did you do 3x drain and fill? Were you able to remove the fill plug easily? :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 Hi I am waiting for fall to do my Transmission change. I have about 74,000. miles on my Elantra now. 100 + deg out here in Az. I try to change oil right before it gets hot and right after even if there is still mileage left. I have 2017 Elantra., Will let you know which fluids I use. thanks
Until I have a way to lift my car, I'll stick to the 120$ ATF fee at the shop. Just got it done few weeks ago actually. I'm at around 80k miles. more or less
7.5 gallons worth of changes to get 99% of the 1.75 gallons of transmission fluid to be clean?
Are you referring to the last picture I showed? That was just for funny information. I don't think you need to do so many changes.
If you plan to use a different fluid for the change, then do the drain and fill 3 times just to replace most of the fluid like how I did. You will be fine with doing 2 times as well.
If you use OEM, then 2 times would be good. :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 I was just making an observation about the last picture yeah. I'm also wondering about how many flushes it takes to get 5050 coolant to be in cooling system if you can only drain 2 quarts at a time (with a similar 7 quart capacity) so this helps a little.
@@TripDadLife you're saying only 2 quarts come out in a coolant drain for a 6th gen elantra? If that's the case, its a wise idea to do a coolant drain and fill twice at 60K first and then once every 40k intervals. That way the fluid will not go bad. It will constantly be rejuvenated.
This is exactly i was looking for! Thanks for the detail.
Does this voild the warranty by any chance?
Thank you so much. Using aftermarket fluids should not void the warranty. There are laws that protect you from voiding the warranty. But then again, its a whole other topic for debate. :)
If you use the same specification (ATF SP-IV), then it shouldn't void your warranty.
Fluid level plug is ⅜ in. ratchet. Usually can be taken off as it is probably finger tight.
Thanks for the video! What car is under the cover next to you? Looks like a really old hub cap...
I am not sure which car that is. The tire is completely worn but the paint if the car is still good. :)
Hi please help me I have drain out old oil around 3.5 quarts and I put 4 quarts new oil. It will have any issues after putting extra oil. How will know the 4 quarts is fine?
Today I did change my 2017 Hyundai Sonata ATF I drain all the oil it is almost 4qts and then I filled. I didn't open that black socket overflow which is near drain bolt it is ok ?? and while filling it tooks too much time because the air I fill little by little If I do fast oil comes out? What is the reason?
Hi, what fluid did you use? And did you put back the same amount of fluid in?
Maybe the funnel you used was covering the entire fill hole. When this happens, the fluid does not go in easily and bubbles out frequently. It goes in slowly.
For my car, I used a smaller funnel and the fill hole was wide. Hence, it went in easily.
@@andy-auto-info2483 I think so funnel is the problem. When I keep straight and tight it won't goes then I kept loose then little by little it goes. Next time I will get more small. Please share your WhatsApp.
@@andy-auto-info2483 check it out .. it is not in details and lot of steps are missing I will make another video soon for this. Please check it out and let me know anything wrong.
ua-cam.com/video/jWilqvE2HSQ/v-deo.html
@@DesiTravelDiaries84 I used a deep funnel from Walmart. No leaks, overflow and done in 2 minutes!
@@thecentralman I also bought from Walmart check it out in my video and let me know you are talking sameone or else. If some other then give me the link I will buy that one.
I looked into the viscosity issue that you mentioned. And unfortunately, since I bought a case of Amsoil Signature Fuel Efficient ATF, the viscosity numbers are worse for the Amsoil. I'm seeing (all at 100C DEG C) Hyundai OEM SP-IV at a viscosity of 5.4, Max Life at 5.9, and Amsoil at a staggering 6.3. Old Hyundai SP-III has a viscosity of about 7.2. The Amsoil Viscosity Index also is poorer than MaxLife, at 159 vs 163. I cannot imagine how going from the much thinner Hyundai fluid to the thicker Amsoil will do anything except reduce MPG, vs improve it. And the Amsoil is waaaaaaaay more expensive. Anyone want to buy what I have left off of me?
I use maxlife atf in my 2010 Elantra that specs sp-iii and I use it in my 2013 Kia Rio that spec sp-IV . Both run great and I’ve done several drain and fills it’s also way cheaper on Amazon ($5.67 a qt) that is sold from the actual valvoline store. Their gallon is same price as Walmart ($17). Amsoil is a waste of money.
I've used valvoline maxlife atf in my 06 Sedona. I'm the original owner and the van has 190k on it and it shifts like new.Drained 4-5 quarts every 30k.
awesone well done
Thanks Al. Appreciate the comment :)
Thank you
Hello @Andy-Auto-info, i have a Hyundai Elantra 2015 MD with the same looking gearbox, can i do the same procedure ?
Another question please, do i need to put new fluid after the first and the second change or reuse the same as the first change ?
@Akram Zairig yes. You can do the same procedure. And you do not need to file the fill port because for 2015 models, it comes out easily. And use fresh fluid all the time. Do not reuse the fluids :)
If you see my video, I used about 9 quarts to do this. I used fresh fluid all the time. Also, see the excel sheet at the end :) let me know if you have any questions.
Why you have not replaced tramission filter??
The new Generation Hyundai models with this transmission does not need a transmission filter change. There is a transmission filter but that is somewhere inside the transmission and is very hard to access. Even the dealers do not change it unless there is some major problem and it has to be changed.
Instead of changing the oil 3 times why not pull the sump out and clean all the big metal bits sitting button of the sump and replace your filter too it would still be cheaper than changing your oil 3 times better inspection and better for your transmission too. it's not a good sign if you're getting metal bits in your transmission oil that means you have bigger pieces in bottom of sump not a good sign at 30k at least
I think you got it wrong. It is very much normal to have metak pieces during the first transmission change. That is from the break in of the transmission. This transmission does not have a sump and this is one way to change fluid. Another way is by a complete flush but that could do damage to the transmission. 3x filling was to replace old fluid completely by the new one, as much as I can :)
Hi Sir
I have Hyundai Elantra DOHC SEL 2019 engine 2.0
Which type of ATF needed?
How much liter's of transmission fluid capacity need it?
Thanks
It should be the same type of fluid. The latest one is SP-IVM. Could you check your manual what it says for transmission fluid? If you're draining and filling, you may require upto 4 quarts of oil like seen in the video. Thanks.
@@andy-auto-info2483
Checked Manual
MICHANG ATF SP-IV, SK ATF SP-IV, NOCA ATF SP-IV, HYUNDAI genuine ATF SP-IV or other brands meeting the above specification approved by HYUNDAI Motor Co.
@@hersh85 perfect. Then SP-IV or SP-IV M would suffice. :)
I think you said 30 foot-pounds. I thinking it is 20 to 30 inch. 30 foot pounds would be 15 pounds of force pushed on a 2 foot wrench. Did not look like you did 15 pounds of push. I look the amount up and found 20 to 30 inch poounds . BUT please check me. Thanks Good video. I am going to do a double change Just like you. I using Aisin SP4. Rock Auto.
Why did you not move the gear selector? 😂😂😂😂
@@xThat1dude you're that one dude. Lovely. I've replied to many already. It was the hexagonal bolt that was blocking the cap. Not the gear shifter. I tried moving the gears, it did not work. :)
I changed my fluid last week, no problems other than I didn't have the right size crush washer. And for some reason, I didn't measure the old one before I reinstalled it. Do you have the size of that washer? I'm guessing it's around 24 mm. The Hyundai part number is 21513-11000 but doesn't give the size. Don't feel like paying $10 for one, shipped from Hyundai. I used Aisin SP4 fluid from Rock Auto.
How has the aisin sp4 help up?
Do you think maybe if the transmission gear selector was in neutral that the top plug would be easier to remove?
I tried this. It did not work. Also, it is not the shift selector coming in the way. It is the thick hexagonal bolt under the shift selector coming in the way. Hope that helps.
EXELENTE VIDEO 5 STARS
Thank you!
Couldnt you have just removed the 2 nuts and that plate sitting above the bolt to remove it???
That is the shifter assembly.
You have a good point. But I did not want to touch this because of calibration concerns. And they normally have very specific torques for smooth shifts and I did not want to risk it.
Also, FYI, some people were able to get the fill bolt off easily and some like me, faced this issue. So fingers crossed :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 ah ok..understandable. I have the '18 GT model so hopefully mine will be lil easier to get it out. The air intake is already out lol I swapped it for a cold air intake
@@Roadsurfer2k11 ha ha. I see.
good luck :)
That is what I did. Removed the two bolts and the plate rotates left and right and gives you the clearance to pull the plug out.
@@alexceja696 k thx for the update. I noticed now if precise replacement needs to be done, I would use a pencil and outline that curve on the plate, drawing on the base. And mark off each side the bolts attached to it, so i would know exactly its position put back on
hi first of all thanks because video really helpful, i also have a question may you can answer, i have 2018 Elantra Gl Se. i could not find which transmission need. can you help me
Thank you Yasir.
Which country is this in? Is it Canada? Do you have the 6 speed automatic? If so, the car is exactly same as mine, so you should be good :)
@@andy-auto-info2483
Yes I am in Canada
@@yasirchaudhry2266 and if you havd a 6 speed automatic, then it would be the same process. :)
The drain bolt is not 15 to 16 mm
Hello, do I drain the fluid first and then fill it up while it’s running or just fill up from the start?
Good video bro
Thank you! Appreciate the feedback! :)
Hi there is no filter in automatic transmission like benz have
There is a transmission filter. Its basically a screen type filter. It is very hard to replace it. But that's not a problem, keeping the transmission fluid as clean as possible by doing regular drain and fills every 30k miles will make it last minimum 200k miles in my book. :)
The filter could be a non servicable one. So don't worry about it :)
Since there is no pan, you can't drop the pan and access the filter like traditional non-modern transmissions. Its somewhere inside and might be difficult to get to it.
Well done
Thank you Gerard! Appreciate it 😊
If you have a pump, could you refill via the over fill plug vs going through the hassle at the beginning?
Yes. You can do that. But it is a smaller hole, so make sure you have extensions on the hose of your pump.
Also, lets say 3 quarts come out. Pump back 3.5 quarts. Immediately close the cap. Check fluid level as per the instructions on my pinned comment :)
I used the hand pump from harbor freight and it worked perfect!
@@matthewdegennaro2604 that is wonderful. Can you share the product link?
Also, how many quarts came out? How much did you add back in? Did you check thr fluid level?
www.harborfreight.com/Fluid-Siphon-Pump-62613.html
I am actually going to be posting a video of me doing this on my public channel where I perform this procedure on my 2017 Sonata.
I haven’t done my 3rd drain yet though
@@matthewdegennaro2604 wonderful. Do let me know when its out! :)
I have a question. Would it be a good idea to drain and refill Transmission fluid once every 10k miles instead of doing it 3 times at once every 30k miles? Because if it's fine to do it, then I wouldn't mind doing it every 2nd oil change. Gets rid of hassle of jacking up two more times just for transmission fluid drain. Because this way, I can set a day where I can do oil change, transmission drain, and tire rotation all at once every 10k miles. I do oil change every 5k miles. I have 2019 Hyundai Elantra SEL and it's already at 36k miles. I plan to do transmission drain 3x on my 40k mile mark along with tire rotation and oil change. After that, I plan to do it once every 10k miles. Any input on this idea?
That is an interesting question. Since you have 36k miles, you can do what you said without any issues. But if the fluid looks very dirty after the first drain (use your intuition), then I would recommend you do a drain and fill 2 times (driving about 50-100 miles in between). That way you can get rid off most of the old dirty fluid. If you are using OEM fluid, then 2 times is sufficient. You do not need a 3rd drain and fill.
I did it 3 times mainly to replace 80%+ fluid with new and because I was using a non-OEM (Amsoil) fluid and I did not want any mixing issues (But I learned from my oil analysis that mixing fluid did not cause any damage to the fluid). But as you saw from my video, after 2 drain and fills, the fluid looked to be in good condition. Additionally, my oil analysis said that the fluid was in perfect condition. Hope this helps. :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 Definitely helped. On my upcoming transmission oil change for the first time on my 2019 Hyundai Elantra, I plan to do it 3 times the way you did it. After that, I might just flush every 10k. I used to do transmission fluid change on my 2003 Acura TL and it was easier than regular oil change. This one is no different. Only hassle I'm gonna have is bottom bumper cover on and off but it's well worth it because it protects the parts. I learned from your statements regarding the oil. I was close to using Valvoline MaxATF because that's what I used on my 2003 Acura TL Type-S since all it required was Z1, so MaxATF worked fair enough. But it is quite skeptical that a viscosity that works on my old 2003 acura tl would also work on 2019 modern hyundai elantra. So I'm taking your advice and gonna go buy AMSOIL OE Fuel Efficient ATF even though I have 3 gallons of MaxATF. I'll prolly save MaxLife for a different car or if I know any of my friends who will need it.
@@cocourth5611 I am glad you understood what I had to say regarding viscosity. It very important to get that right. I had a 2001 Honda civic myself and I was using the Z1 fluid. Thats how I knew that these modern cars use a thinner viscosity fluids.
And after 3 drain and fill procedures, you are good for another 30-40k miles. You can just do 1 or 2 drain and fill every 40k miles after the initial 3 time drain/fill procedure. That should keep the tranny healthy for a very long time. And true synthetic ATFs last a long time which is good. Also, do not forget to use the level check plug to make sure the fluid is at the correct level. Good luck! Do share your experience after the change here. Someday all this info will help others. :)
@@andy-auto-info2483 Definitely. When I get to 39k-40k, Im gonna do transmission fluid change. Before then, I need to buy the parts. Will need to buy crush washer, amsoil atf.
@@cocourth5611 did you buy it new or was it a used rental? I'm doing mine around 20k because I drive 90% city, lots of acceleration/deceleration because of my area's dumb traffic light sequence
Is that not the shift lever that was blocking the drain plug? If so, why not just move the shifter out of the way. Aka put into neutral.. maybe I’m missing something
Shift selector is not the only thing. You see the big hexagon looking bolt that's holding the shift selector? That's blocking the fill port. I did not want to mess with the calibration by turning/moving it :)
I think I'll be using a Dremel tool to get the cap off
Yeah. Should work. Just go slow.
I have a 2017 Santa Fe sport. What do you think?
Shift the transmission to N. So you can remove the top plastic bolt easily
Is the metal part covering the bolt part of the shifting mechanism?
I tried, it did not work. Moreover, the shift selector was not in the way. There is another hexagon looking bolt under the selector which was coming in the way of fill plug. Hope that makes sense :)
Some folks, this was not coming in the way and were able to remove the plug easily.
@@kalani1987 Yes. But it is housed on top of a big hexagon looking bolt. That is coming in the way and cannot be moved.
Great job on the video, well explained 👍
Thanks Tommy!
Sorry for noob question. When you drain/add transmission fluid the car supposed to be leveled, correct? So, suppose I put Elantra on 4 jack stands and engage parking brake when I’m doing this procedure.
Would it be safe to start the car, go through gears while car is off the ground??
It definitely would be safe. Just don't hit the accelerator. Also, use brakes and leave the hand brakes on at all times. :)