Here is a good tip: Oven Cleaner is usually Sodium Hydroxide - also known as caustic soda. If you head to Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy the "Zep" branded "Industrial degreaser". That stuff is the same exact thing: sodium hydroxide. And it is just as strong as far as concentration goes. Just like oven cleaner from a can - getting that Zep degreaser on your skin will cause mild chemical burn. Best part? That Zep cleaner is just over $10 for an entire gallon. I use it a LOT for this exact thing: cleaning heavily greased and carboned engine parts. I find mixing it down 1:4 (4 parts water) is still strong enough to cut the worse grease and still cause mild skin irritation.
@@Alex-gc2sj Sodium Hydroxide IS corrosive with aluminum. I do not recommend it on machined finishes as it can cause mild pitting. It will also cause the aluminum to darken and depending on how long exposed, will even turn it black. Not as big of an issue on cast parts as you can always lighten them back up with something like the NAPA aluminum brightener. Or a can of VHT aluminum spray paint.
@Alex Back in high school, it was common in chemistry class to drop aluminum foil in sodium hydroxide to make hydrogen gas. Not only does sodium hydroxide dissolve aluminum. It also makes explosive gas in the process.
I know this video is old, but I wanted to tell you to try Berrymans chem dip for your engine parts. It works in one step overnight. Everything will be perfectly clean. I’m eventually going to have a 55 gal drum so I can dip my engine blocks and everything.
Pete, Great video. When I was rebuilding the carburetor on my Avanti, I found that carb cleaner would not touch the grime even with a brass brush. So I purchase a large bottle of Lemon Pine-Sol and put it undiluted into a 5 gallon bucker. Then I soaked the carb for 24 hours. The carb looked like a brand new one when I removed it. I only use Pine-Sol now for parts cleaning. Its very cheap and works like a Champ. Added bonus, the shop will smell great too!!
i appreciate your videos man. im rebuilding my ford 4.6l triton. its my first full rebuild i know these engines are infamous for their shananagans. im currently watching your entire series on rebuilds. im gettting ready to have my block heads and shafts brought to the machine shop and then order the rebuild parts kit. its got 265k miles on it but the truck is an 04 and its in great shape i dont want to replace the engine because the core parts are still good after some machining. so this is the part where i spend money lol. thanks for your detailed and down to earth explainations of you processes and procedures. i wasnt going to bother having my crank shaft machined i was just going to polish it by hand but after your crankshaft video i realized the value of having it ground and putting in the right size bearings after the machining...saved me a huge head ache and prolly gave me a better smother result. after all the rotating assembly is the heart of your engine . after that its the timing and proper sealing and compression. learning alot thanks again man.
Hi Pete, when I cleaned my rocker shaft, I inserted a length of rope inside the tube. Then tied each end of the rope to a fixed point and ran the tube up and down the rope. Polished the inside really well! Great attention to detail, thank you
Good stuff, I’ve been parts cleaning my rx8, I was just using diluted power purple and using a nylon brush. It really wasn’t cutting the turkey but I got a stainless and brass brush (I haven’t touched any critical surfaces with them) and now that I’ve seen your video I think I might look into some quality solvents. It looks like that made your parts cleaning a lot easier than what I’ve been subjected to. Thanks Pete!
Another great video I live in Florida and use the oven cleaner trick I'll put the parts in the sun and let them get hot and spray the oven cleaner on and let them sit in the sun this works good on oil pan valve covers and small parts
What I do..is determine my parts container...by the material the solvent comes in. The CRC was in a plastic container...so, a plastic tub is what I'll soak/clean in. Harsher solvents that are shipped in metal containers...I'll use metal tubs, cans, etc... Thanks...great video.
Not completely true - the material (Plastik or metal) the solvent comes in says not much. Just because it comes in a metal Container does not mean you can use any metal for cleaning or storing. The same with plastic, many harsh aggressive cleaners will eat through metal if you did not use the right sort of metal. And when the come in plastic containers (for example HDPE) and you use a plastic container (abs, ..) you will habe a problem. So always check what is in your cleaner/solvent and then get a container that will fit! If you have any cleaner with hydrochloric acid (used in many products) you should not use a metal container.. HDPE containers are good for most chemicals but always check before using;)
i can't afford enough degreaser so I use diesel. I find a quick soak and scrub with whatever brush, polypad etc that will fit and clean the part without damage. rinse with water and soap, dry and then give a quick spray over with some wd40 or crc. then when I reassemble wipe down with a lint free rag and oil as required. diesels cheap and seems to dissolve the grime and sludge pretty well. is there any concerns with using it tho? I've never had a issue but do a oil change after run in just to be sure its all out as it can leave a slippery feel. this maybe beneficial but I'm not certain.
Pete's Garage it does a pretty good job for the dollars and that's good to know its only a possible smell issue. our fuel used to be full of sulphur and grey but now the European diesels require better fuel it's clear and doesn't ell like a egg fart so much. I'm doing a half rebuild on a wl-t Mazda and its been running out of balance for a long time because whoever put it together last time only timed the pump to crank but both balance shafts were out of time. combustion chamber on no4 has a hard ridge I've just smoothed out with 120g wet an dry and WD. its a do the best ya can on a budget job. it should be bored out but $$$ don't allow for it. fingers crossed and your videos have been awesome for verifying a good many points. just checking tolerances and installing bottom end now.
1 gallon jug. 1/2 kerosene + 1qt ATF + 1qt Dawn dish detergent. Shake to mix, shake before using. Pour into spray bottle. Aluminum friendly. Best degreaser you can't buy.
ATF is a high-detergent lubricator. See the inside of a trans? Add 1qt (overfill) to your crankcase on last 100 miles before oil change. Drain HOT, drip dry 3-5 hours. Add 1pt to your oil after change, leave it in. It helps to clean, starts faster & easier, especially in Winter. Way better and cheaper than Marvel.
Another great video. Here's my tip. Im sure the CRC cleaner works great, but its really just over priced acetone. The MSDS on this withholds composition as a trade secret but look at any brake clean or similar and its common distillates from Home Depot/Lowes/Ace. Most products are 50-75% or more acetone along with Naptha, Toluene, Methanol,& heptane. 5 Gals acetone at home depot 69$, mix it with naptha or mineral spirits which are cheaper, even Klean Strip paint thinner is 42$ per 5 gals & Id bet an overnight soak in that will give you clean parts. I bought a gallon of naptha for 13$ to run through my fuel injectors for cleaning, OTC was selling this for about 25/quarts so 100$ per gal with their injector cleaner jig & solution, yep 25$ for refill. I got the. Naptha is clean Kerosene, mean stripped much more of sulfur than kerosene. Do what you think is best for you, bu the less you spend on brand name chemicals, the more you can spend on engines or new tools.
That is true, but be careful. Naptha, acetone, methanol, and toluene are highly flammable. Those chemicals will absorb right into your skin and will dry it out fast. They're almost as dangerous as trichloroethylene.
Nice stuff there Pete but I have a suggestion. Prior to doing any solvents I would highly recommend an aqueous cleaner specifically SUPER CLEAN which is available at Wal-Mart. It comes in a purple bottle and is not to be confused with Purple Power which is inferior. This stuff is exceptionally good at removing grease and oil and if nothing else it will enable you to reuse your expensive CRC solvent as it will take off most of the dirt. In fact you might not even need the CRC solvent after the SUPER CLEAN does it's stuff. It cost about $10 a gallon and is diluted with water. It's very effective. Might be able to save a lot of money by using this as a pre-clean.
Buy your wife a shiny new dishwasher, and put the old one in your shop. Set your water heater temp as high as it goes. If you want to fit an oil pan in it, you can remove the top rack, but be sure to plug the top sprayer water outlet.
Pete thank you for taking the time to prepare these informative instructional videos. Much appreciated even here in the UK. After cleaning, baking and bead blasting cast iron parts ie the valve train components how do you stop them corroding before assembly. You mentioned the 'cast blast' finish applied by the machine shop which does this on the cast iron of the block and head. Do you treat the parts you clean similarly? Thx
Hey Pete I thought scotch brite pads aren’t safe to use to clean internal engine parts because they stick behind abrasive material. Does the solvent clean out these abrasive materials effectively enough?
I like the method. Used similar in my years. Only question is where the waste water from the sink goes when you rinse the within it? Considered hazwaste I believe....
Hey Peter! I've been watching as much of your content as I can lately attempting to prepare for my small block Cheyv 400 build. This is great stuff. I did notice that in another video you were very adamantly against the use of a media blaster for internal components. If I am quoting you correctly, "If one grain of blasting media gets in the oil passageways, its over!" lol. Is that an opinion you developed after this build or is there something different with the Studebaker build that makes it not as important?
You are a smart man! I had the oil pump pickup near my blaster and some of the grains must have got into the screen. Locked this engine up on the dyno because of it.
@@PetesGarage No kidding? I haven't gotten to the dyno video of this build yet. Live and learn I suppose. Thanks for sharing, this is the kind of experience that can save someone money.
Thanks for the video been looking through UA-cam for ways to clean parts. I’m concerned about using oven in the house. Those kinds of fumes are toxic. Could you use a torch of some kind instead?
Great Job. My girlfriend and I live in an apartment and looking for a house with a garage. I can't wait to start on tearing down motors and rebuilding them.
Adam Wells I have actually done this with different items Lol, I converted a walkin closet to an engine rebuild room and man was my ex pissed when she came home to me scrubbing piston heads and rods in the bathtub Lol good times, now I have a garage
+gary buskirk lol that is funny. cross your fingers. we're talking to a loan officer and things look promising. Our third floor apartment only offers a balcony and small closet for the water heater. It'd be hard to hoist a motor that high.
Hey Pete, Great video, and well explained. I was wondering if you happen to know the active ingredients in the chemical you used to strip paint? I'm trying to find an alternative available in Australia. Contacted Miles Chemical Solutions in the U.S and shipping makes it not worth my while to grab the stuff you are using. I've tried electrolysis to strip paint which works well but often leaves a coating you have to scrub off. This stuff you're using looks great!! any help would be awesome. cheers
I use a glass bead made by Hillcrest. They are in Attica, NY. I've been to the factory to see how they make it. It's a really cool process and it's all from recycled glass. Works incredibly well.
Thanks for answering the question that was on my mind since the beginning of this serie's of video's. I work/hobby on old motorcycle's and I use an ultrasonic cleaner sometimes. I've bought one with a 30L basin, so i could fit a complete cilinderhead. (primeraly to clean the non-removable oil jets) What's your thought on ultrasonic cleaners? Or do you use it only on carburetor parts?
What did you use the strip/clean the valve covers? I have been buying Paint Stripper from the hardware store, and it is not the same stuff from the 1980's. It takes days just to turn paint into a vulcanized rubbery texture that I have to wire brush off. I might as well just set up a sand blaster cabinet. I am stripping new Archery Bow Risers to paint with different and better paints. most are Aluminum so I cant use caustic acids because they will eat the aluminum also. Any Suggestions?
You are right, the paint strippers now are terrible without methylene chloride. A blast cabinet helps, but it does not always work. Look up paint dissolvers instead of paint strippers, there are chemical companies that sell some good stuff
@@PetesGarage We figured out that for about 400 dollars that I can get a cabinet and blaster from Harbor Freight. then modify it/better gun, caulk all the seals to hold in the media better. Since I am doing Archery Bow Risers for my Business I can use it on the Taxes Shop Equipment. I am also checking to see if my supplier will send them to me before they paint them. That would be a big help. I will check on the devolve thing also. TY.
Hi PeteGreat Videos with very good details. One questions. When you media blasted the rockers and towers, what precautions do you take to be sure that you do not harm the machined surfaces?
I blasted the rocker before resurfacing the end that touches the tip. The towers did not have a finely machined end, but I try not to blast those parts. If it is a critically machined surface I will cover it with duct tape.
The reason I do it in a separate container is so I can let it sit so the solids fall out, then I strain it and put it back in the original can. It's good for a long time that way
Say Pete, can you send all the parts out for a hot dip? That could do the heavy lifting or the entire work for some/most of the gunked up parts and pieces. And/or maybe explain what it does, when and why to use it, when and why not to use it.
***** I comprehend. The window you allow others to see of your work, shows a proclivity for cleanliness and quality control over your parts. Makes for a good show and a very good rebuild.
The right tools to the right job :) So how to remove carbon from pistons, specialy in the piston rings? The grooves are very small. Can we use the same method? Thanks
By me, there's have a quarterly "Stop throwing out pollutants" event which is where I suspect this stuff should go. Another question is: how many times can you re-use this stuff (the paint stripper, for example.)
I had some very sludged up rocker covers from hell. There were some sheet metal baffles inside so I could not use mechanical means to reach inside the shrouded part. .I took a gander and saw that the oven cleaner was lye. It is sold as drain opener in powder form. You MUST put it into solution by adding the powder to water before you put it into your five gallon plastic bucket. It will melt a hole through it! It generates so much heat it will literally burn your skin off. But it will de-sludge inaccessible sludge like the spray oven cleaner only cheaper. You must be really careful of the high temperature created when the powder changer ito solution. After that, it cools down and is like ultra strong soap. I have been enjoying the Cobra build! Don't leave aluminum in it without you watching it. It may etch it.
LMFAO!! I strongly advise AGAINST USING lye (Hydrochloric acid) to clean anything aluminum. Did you know that aluminum reacts with hydrochloric acid to produce aluminum chloride and HYDROGEN GAS "2Al(s) + 6HCl(aq) -> 2AlCl3(aq) + 3H2(g)" ?????? Hydrogen is extremely flammable and has no smell or color. Which makes it EXTREMELY DANGEROUS to your average person because even a tiny electrostatic discharge can be enough to ignite it, and they would have no way of knowing if they were at risk of accidentally blowing themselves up.
I am working on a rather obscure car, a Volvo 1800ES. Your method of clean the engine parts sound good, though I would not use oven cleaner on the aluminum or brass parts. You mention bead blasting. I assume you are talking about glass bead. I have a blasting cabinet for non-machined parts such as suspension, brackets, etc. Just bought a bench top cabinet just for bead blasting so that I don't have the worry of stray aggressive grit messing up a machined or aluminum/brass part. What grit glass bead would you suggest? What about walnut shell blasting? Any experience and suggestions on working with that media.
Will you be showing how you recondition the seat on the rocker arms? (where the push rod rides) This topic has come up on the SDC forums couple of times. Once recently
Before I forget, ... THANK YOU VERY MUCH for taking the extra time to not only make this into a educational video but also going into detail with the Studebaker details. I was on the fence with tackling this rebuild myself. Your videos and the ones to come for sure, have given me the confidence to do the job myself. SDC forum member - what huh THANKS PETE
I wouldn't recommend baking anything in your oven unless its food. Can you give links for this bead blaster ? And the other cleaner you talked about machine.
What do u think about cleaning with washing soda? I just got a 1953 farmall I took the head off and got a 20 gallon tub and mixed water and washing soda and put a truck battery and a 10 Amp charger on it and left it for 2 days took it out and water hose and it looks great 👍 👌 and for no more than the cost of washing soda 7$ big box it's clean and I didn't elbow grease myself to death just would like your in put about that way of cleaning thanks in advance I really appreciate your video I've been cleaning parts for over 20 years full time and finding a easier way makes my day and life better !!
There will be hell to pay! But I use the oven spray too. In my Mopar 318 type rocker covers it was sludge city with unreachable baffled inaccessible areas, I put them in a five gallon bucket and put pre-mixed lye powder (with water in a Pyrex dish) and soaked for a few days and got rid of the sludge the cheapest way. You get the lye as "drain opener" at the home improvement store plumbing department. Be really careful with it! It burns!
hey pete how u duin man.. is thier anything i can do to a 2011 malibu 2.4 like engine wise and make it faster something out of the ordinary by replacing old parts with new parts and get a good decent maybe 400 hp or so?? js thanks
Hey Boss, I love the video but there's one thing that wasn't answered clearly. Can you clean your engine parts (Head Gasket, Valve cover, screws etc..) before reusing them to build your engine? Just wondering if it's safe for the engine and that it won't blow up or something haha. yeah, it's my first time working on an engine,
@@PetesGarage very true, but better alternative then that $170 bucket. For example diesel, very effective cleaning parts and leaves a films that preventing the parts from rusting. I mean come on, for $170, i'll buy a new engine lol
@@whiplashmachine Depends what you're cleaning. For parts with rubber or similar fragile components, yes I'd steer clear. For classic car chassis, suspension and drivetrain components made entirely out of metal that get covered in decades worth of oil and grease, it is extremely effective. An hour or so of submersion will dissolve grease in every nook and cranny allowing it to be washed out.
Pete, Sir I think you are great, please wear rubber gloves when using oven cleaner, that can cause one massive burn and extremely flammable material on your skin. Where s the store for shirts.
Thanks Jonathan. There are a couple types of oven cleaner. The one I use is not like Easy Off, it's more organic and not dangerous to your skin, but the vapor is still rough
Pete, Try using one of the purple degreasers "purple power" and a crock pot. It works great. Check out my video: ua-cam.com/video/evMxeav22_U/v-deo.html Dean
Hey man you really don't want to ask your wife to bake car car parts in the oven let alone bake car parts that has been cleaned in your household oven anyway, and has chemical solvents all over them that will evaporate and stick all over the inside of your oven and get on everything you and your wife and kids (if you have any of the above) consume!!! Not a very good Idea!!! Viewers plz use a separate oven that you or anyone will not be eating anything from!!!
Here is a good tip: Oven Cleaner is usually Sodium Hydroxide - also known as caustic soda. If you head to Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy the "Zep" branded "Industrial degreaser". That stuff is the same exact thing: sodium hydroxide. And it is just as strong as far as concentration goes. Just like oven cleaner from a can - getting that Zep degreaser on your skin will cause mild chemical burn. Best part? That Zep cleaner is just over $10 for an entire gallon. I use it a LOT for this exact thing: cleaning heavily greased and carboned engine parts. I find mixing it down 1:4 (4 parts water) is still strong enough to cut the worse grease and still cause mild skin irritation.
Great tip, thanks Dean
Does it harm aluminum parts
@@Alex-gc2sj Sodium Hydroxide IS corrosive with aluminum. I do not recommend it on machined finishes as it can cause mild pitting. It will also cause the aluminum to darken and depending on how long exposed, will even turn it black. Not as big of an issue on cast parts as you can always lighten them back up with something like the NAPA aluminum brightener. Or a can of VHT aluminum spray paint.
@Alex Back in high school, it was common in chemistry class to drop aluminum foil in sodium hydroxide to make hydrogen gas. Not only does sodium hydroxide dissolve aluminum. It also makes explosive gas in the process.
I know this video is old, but I wanted to tell you to try Berrymans chem dip for your engine parts. It works in one step overnight. Everything will be perfectly clean. I’m eventually going to have a 55 gal drum so I can dip my engine blocks and everything.
Thanks for the tip!
Pete, Great video. When I was rebuilding the carburetor on my Avanti, I found that carb cleaner would not touch the grime even with a brass brush. So I purchase a large bottle of Lemon Pine-Sol and put it undiluted into a 5 gallon bucker. Then I soaked the carb for 24 hours. The carb looked like a brand new one when I removed it. I only use Pine-Sol now for parts cleaning. Its very cheap and works like a Champ. Added bonus, the shop will smell great too!!
I'll try that too...thank you
Instablaster
i appreciate your videos man. im rebuilding my ford 4.6l triton. its my first full rebuild i know these engines are infamous for their shananagans. im currently watching your entire series on rebuilds. im gettting ready to have my block heads and shafts brought to the machine shop and then order the rebuild parts kit. its got 265k miles on it but the truck is an 04 and its in great shape i dont want to replace the engine because the core parts are still good after some machining. so this is the part where i spend money lol. thanks for your detailed and down to earth explainations of you processes and procedures. i wasnt going to bother having my crank shaft machined i was just going to polish it by hand but after your crankshaft video i realized the value of having it ground and putting in the right size bearings after the machining...saved me a huge head ache and prolly gave me a better smother result. after all the rotating assembly is the heart of your engine . after that its the timing and proper sealing and compression. learning alot thanks again man.
I wish it was possible to do this stuff by hand, but it really is precision work. There really is not simple or cheap way out of rebuilding an engine
Veteran to veteran, thanks for the video. Great information.
Thank you for your service my friend
Pete, you are a total professional. Bravo
Thank you Fred
Hi Pete, when I cleaned my rocker shaft, I inserted a length of rope inside the tube. Then tied each end of the rope to a fixed point and ran the tube up and down the rope. Polished the inside really well! Great attention to detail, thank you
That's a great idea, thanks for sharing
Good stuff, I’ve been parts cleaning my rx8, I was just using diluted power purple and using a nylon brush. It really wasn’t cutting the turkey but I got a stainless and brass brush (I haven’t touched any critical surfaces with them) and now that I’ve seen your video I think I might look into some quality solvents. It looks like that made your parts cleaning a lot easier than what I’ve been subjected to. Thanks Pete!
Purple power is good, but you need some heavy solvents to dissolve baked on carbon.
Just realized Pete's a lefty!!! No wonder his videos make so much sense to me!
Everyone is born right handed, but some of us overcome it....lol
Another great video I live in Florida and use the oven cleaner trick I'll put the parts in the sun and let them get hot and spray the oven cleaner on and let them sit in the sun this works good on oil pan valve covers and small parts
That's a cool idea, thanks
What I do..is determine my parts container...by the material the solvent comes in. The CRC was in a plastic container...so, a plastic tub is what I'll soak/clean in. Harsher solvents that are shipped in metal containers...I'll use metal tubs, cans, etc... Thanks...great video.
Great suggestion, thanks
Not completely true - the material (Plastik or metal) the solvent comes in says not much. Just because it comes in a metal Container does not mean you can use any metal for cleaning or storing. The same with plastic, many harsh aggressive cleaners will eat through metal if you did not use the right sort of metal. And when the come in plastic containers (for example HDPE) and you use a plastic container (abs, ..) you will habe a problem. So always check what is in your cleaner/solvent and then get a container that will fit! If you have any cleaner with hydrochloric acid (used in many products) you should not use a metal container.. HDPE containers are good for most chemicals but always check before using;)
Greetings from Indonesia, good sir. You're doing a lovely craft.
Thank you very much!
i can't afford enough degreaser so I use diesel. I find a quick soak and scrub with whatever brush, polypad etc that will fit and clean the part without damage. rinse with water and soap, dry and then give a quick spray over with some wd40 or crc. then when I reassemble wipe down with a lint free rag and oil as required. diesels cheap and seems to dissolve the grime and sludge pretty well. is there any concerns with using it tho? I've never had a issue but do a oil change after run in just to be sure its all out as it can leave a slippery feel. this maybe beneficial but I'm not certain.
Diesel will work, it's just the odor that's tough to get rid of.
Pete's Garage it does a pretty good job for the dollars and that's good to know its only a possible smell issue. our fuel used to be full of sulphur and grey but now the European diesels require better fuel it's clear and doesn't ell like a egg fart so much. I'm doing a half rebuild on a wl-t Mazda and its been running out of balance for a long time because whoever put it together last time only timed the pump to crank but both balance shafts were out of time. combustion chamber on no4 has a hard ridge I've just smoothed out with 120g wet an dry and WD. its a do the best ya can on a budget job. it should be bored out but $$$ don't allow for it. fingers crossed and your videos have been awesome for verifying a good many points. just checking tolerances and installing bottom end now.
Pete you do a amazing job with teaching us how to , you explained your videos nice and slow so we can understand , clear with out a doubt , ty
Thank you very much Wayne
1 gallon jug. 1/2 kerosene + 1qt ATF + 1qt Dawn dish detergent. Shake to mix, shake before using. Pour into spray bottle. Aluminum friendly. Best degreaser you can't buy.
That is great! Thanks for sharing. Why ATF?
ATF is a high-detergent lubricator. See the inside of a trans? Add 1qt (overfill) to your crankcase on last 100 miles before oil change. Drain HOT, drip dry 3-5 hours. Add 1pt to your oil after change, leave it in. It helps to clean, starts faster & easier, especially in Winter. Way better and cheaper than Marvel.
Awesome! Thanks so much
great info. I'm cleaning up my SBF 302 gonna use your methods and hopefully have the same results.
It will work....good luck with it
Another great video. Here's my tip. Im sure the CRC cleaner works great, but its really just over priced acetone. The MSDS on this withholds composition as a trade secret but look at any brake clean or similar and its common distillates from Home Depot/Lowes/Ace.
Most products are 50-75% or more acetone along with Naptha, Toluene, Methanol,& heptane. 5 Gals acetone at home depot 69$, mix it with naptha or mineral spirits which are cheaper, even Klean Strip paint thinner is 42$ per 5 gals & Id bet an overnight soak in that will give you clean parts.
I bought a gallon of naptha for 13$ to run through my fuel injectors for cleaning, OTC was selling this for about 25/quarts so 100$ per gal with their injector cleaner jig & solution, yep 25$ for refill. I got the. Naptha is clean Kerosene, mean stripped much more of sulfur than kerosene.
Do what you think is best for you, bu the less you spend on brand name chemicals, the more you can spend on engines or new tools.
That is true, but be careful. Naptha, acetone, methanol, and toluene are highly flammable. Those chemicals will absorb right into your skin and will dry it out fast. They're almost as dangerous as trichloroethylene.
nice work and thanks for the tip
Nice stuff there Pete but I have a suggestion. Prior to doing any solvents I would highly recommend an aqueous cleaner specifically SUPER CLEAN which is available at Wal-Mart. It comes in a purple bottle and is not to be confused with Purple Power which is inferior. This stuff is exceptionally good at removing grease and oil and if nothing else it will enable you to reuse your expensive CRC solvent as it will take off most of the dirt. In fact you might not even need the CRC solvent after the SUPER CLEAN does it's stuff. It cost about $10 a gallon and is diluted with water. It's very effective. Might be able to save a lot of money by using this as a pre-clean.
That's a good suggestion, thank you
Nothing like a 55 gallon drum Turco and MEK. Don’t know if you used it in the service but we definately used it at Grumman. Brutal stuff. 😊🇺🇸
Oh, I used MEK all the time
@@PetesGarage how about chlorothane. Great for cleaning hydraulic oil leaks ( Mil H 5606 ). Didn’t leave an oily residue. 😊
@@arthurfricchione8119 Sounds carcinogenic.
561 it probably was but who knew it way back then.
8:40 , haha i had some breaking bad memories right there lol , fans will get it
I'll have to check that out
Thank you for your video I had no idea there was fluid u just drop parts in and clean it I'm getting some for sure 😉👌
Keep it easy
I dont like eating my own cooking. I have a oven for my shop lol. Got a few hints here, nice.
I also have an oven in the shop, but I'm trying to show what most people do not have. Thanks John
Its simple and easy to understand. Its obvious, much thanks
Thank you for watching
Internal - use steam clean - separates & dissolves grease
Interesting
Buy your wife a shiny new dishwasher, and put the old one in your shop. Set your water heater temp as high as it goes. If you want to fit an oil pan in it, you can remove the top rack, but be sure to plug the top sprayer water outlet.
Really really good video, thank you!
Thank you my friend
Pete thank you for taking the time to prepare these informative instructional videos. Much appreciated even here in the UK. After cleaning, baking and bead blasting cast iron parts ie the valve train components how do you stop them corroding before assembly. You mentioned the 'cast blast' finish applied by the machine shop which does this on the cast iron of the block and head. Do you treat the parts you clean similarly? Thx
Thanks David. For internal parts I just soak them in WD-40. It keeps them rust free until assembly.
very informative !
Great video hope there's many more like these to come!!!
I'm trying
Great video - how do you clean magnesium parts?
I would use similar methods
Good practice to clean well.
Always
Hey Pete I thought scotch brite pads aren’t safe to use to clean internal engine parts because they stick behind abrasive material. Does the solvent clean out these abrasive materials effectively enough?
As long as you thoroughly clean the parts it's ok
They're still abrasive though, about the same as 400 grit paper.
"If your wife does not let you bake your engine parts in the oven... you married the wrong person." Very true! Haha.
Anders Johansson I asked mine and said it was all good. Had a good laugh :D
Don't ask....just do it
I'm currently rebuilding a 350 crackhead style in my front room she just walks by me as im torquing rod bolts lmfao
its very satisfying watching the oil run down the drain off the rockers lol
What you can't see is the grease and oil trap in the line. I try hard not to pollute
thats good haha
where did you get rid of the chemical This looks better then a mechanical cleaning...thx
I keep the parts cleaner and the oven spray bakes right off
Is this video about cleaning engine components or how to disassemble a Studebaker?
Maybe both
Then it‘s not appropriatly named
@@karlsinger4760 Thanks
I was thinking the same thing
Great video
Thanks Alexander
I like the method. Used similar in my years. Only question is where the waste water from the sink goes when you rinse the within it? Considered hazwaste I believe....
I have an oil trap
@@PetesGarage Ah, perfect!
Hey Peter! I've been watching as much of your content as I can lately attempting to prepare for my small block Cheyv 400 build. This is great stuff. I did notice that in another video you were very adamantly against the use of a media blaster for internal components. If I am quoting you correctly, "If one grain of blasting media gets in the oil passageways, its over!" lol. Is that an opinion you developed after this build or is there something different with the Studebaker build that makes it not as important?
You are a smart man! I had the oil pump pickup near my blaster and some of the grains must have got into the screen. Locked this engine up on the dyno because of it.
@@PetesGarage No kidding? I haven't gotten to the dyno video of this build yet. Live and learn I suppose. Thanks for sharing, this is the kind of experience that can save someone money.
Thank you Pete's garage for your honesty in your experience!
Great stuff Pete; very detailed videos! I'm excited to watch some of your engine builds and follow instructions! This should be interesting...
Thanks 👍
Nice!!
Cool workshop manager (your dog) - useful information and very helpful . :0)
Gotta have shop security, glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the video been looking through UA-cam for ways to clean parts. I’m concerned about using oven in the house. Those kinds of fumes are toxic. Could you use a torch of some kind instead?
If you use oven cleaner, using the oven in the house is no problem the fumes are not toxic, just unpleasant
Great Job. My girlfriend and I live in an apartment and looking for a house with a garage. I can't wait to start on tearing down motors and rebuilding them.
Apartment? Just tear it down in front of the TV...lol
+Petes Garage Haven't ruled that out as an option. lol
Adam Wells I have actually done this with different items Lol, I converted a walkin closet to an engine rebuild room and man was my ex pissed when she came home to me scrubbing piston heads and rods in the bathtub Lol good times, now I have a garage
+gary buskirk lol that is funny. cross your fingers. we're talking to a loan officer and things look promising. Our third floor apartment only offers a balcony and small closet for the water heater. It'd be hard to hoist a motor that high.
Take it apart first. A block only weighs 150 pounds or so
Awesome stuff Pete! Thanks
Thank you Haroldo
Hey Pete, Great video, and well explained. I was wondering if you happen to know the active ingredients in the chemical you used to strip paint? I'm trying to find an alternative available in Australia. Contacted Miles Chemical Solutions in the U.S and shipping makes it not worth my while to grab the stuff you are using.
I've tried electrolysis to strip paint which works well but often leaves a coating you have to scrub off.
This stuff you're using looks great!!
any help would be awesome.
cheers
I use just oven cleaner, it works very well
Haha always good to hear a buffalo bob reference
Gotta throw that in there
What media do you use in your blasting cabinet?
I use a glass bead made by Hillcrest. They are in Attica, NY. I've been to the factory to see how they make it. It's a really cool process and it's all from recycled glass. Works incredibly well.
Petes Garage Thanks! I'm going to pick some up and give it a try.
Thanks for answering the question that was on my mind since the beginning of this serie's of video's. I work/hobby on old motorcycle's and I use an ultrasonic cleaner sometimes. I've bought one with a 30L basin, so i could fit a complete cilinderhead. (primeraly to clean the non-removable oil jets)
What's your thought on ultrasonic cleaners? Or do you use it only on carburetor parts?
Ultrasonics are very good. It's still tough to get the baked on oil though, that's why I use this method
great detailed movie...
Thanks Dan
Great video. Thanks for the info :D
Thank you for watching
What did you use the strip/clean the valve covers? I have been buying Paint Stripper from the hardware store, and it is not the same stuff from the 1980's. It takes days just to turn paint into a vulcanized rubbery texture that I have to wire brush off. I might as well just set up a sand blaster cabinet.
I am stripping new Archery Bow Risers to paint with different and better paints.
most are Aluminum so I cant use caustic acids because they will eat the aluminum also.
Any Suggestions?
You are right, the paint strippers now are terrible without methylene chloride. A blast cabinet helps, but it does not always work. Look up paint dissolvers instead of paint strippers, there are chemical companies that sell some good stuff
@@PetesGarage We figured out that for about 400 dollars that I can get a cabinet and blaster from Harbor Freight. then modify it/better gun, caulk all the seals to hold in the media better.
Since I am doing Archery Bow Risers for my Business I can use it on the Taxes Shop Equipment.
I am also checking to see if my supplier will send them to me before they paint them. That would be a big help.
I will check on the devolve thing also. TY.
Good luck
TY, I will shoot a link when i post it.
I can only hope your on a septic tank system and not hooked up to city or county waist line.
I don't have septic
Hi PeteGreat Videos with very good details. One questions. When you media blasted the rockers and towers, what precautions do you take to be sure that you do not harm the machined surfaces?
I blasted the rocker before resurfacing the end that touches the tip. The towers did not have a finely machined end, but I try not to blast those parts. If it is a critically machined surface I will cover it with duct tape.
the crc cleaner do you use that as a one shot or multiple times?
The reason I do it in a separate container is so I can let it sit so the solids fall out, then I strain it and put it back in the original can. It's good for a long time that way
thanks your videos have inspired me back to build my own racing engines. I am building a 273 to race in stock eliminator K/SA
Say Pete, can you send all the parts out for a hot dip? That could do the heavy lifting or the entire work for some/most of the gunked up parts and pieces.
And/or maybe explain what it does, when and why to use it, when and why not to use it.
The machine shop cleans up the block and heads for me. I don't mind doing the rest of the parts because it gives me time to inspect them.
***** I comprehend. The window you allow others to see of your work, shows a proclivity for cleanliness and quality control over your parts. Makes for a good show and a very good rebuild.
The right tools to the right job :)
So how to remove carbon from pistons, specialy in the piston rings?
The grooves are very small.
Can we use the same method?
Thanks
Yes, you can use the same method. The oven cleaner works well on pistons
@@PetesGarage I wouldn’t recommend oven cleaner on pistons particularly Japanese pistons with ceramic coating, Ask me how I know ??
Hi Pete! Many thnks for the video! Just wondering if them rockers need to be heat-treated after machining?
They would not. They are cast and do not see much pressure. I don't think they were heat treated to begin with
great video, as always. love watching these. Doing some cleaning on a boat engine now.. Where do you dispose of these products when finshed?
I recycle them, just filter and reuse
Is there a difference between degreaser and parts cleaner also using a concentrate parts wash is this stuff ok considering it uses water.
Parts cleaner is a petroleum based product that dilutes grease. Degreaser is a chemical that separates oil so it's easy to clean.
Great video. I like how you showed different methods. Question: what about disposing the "used" solvents?
David Plass Where I live there's a number to call for that info. Google environment waste in your area.
By me, there's have a quarterly "Stop throwing out pollutants" event which is where I suspect this stuff should go. Another question is: how many times can you re-use this stuff (the paint stripper, for example.)
I collect all of my solvants and take them every year to a hazardous chemical pickup sponsored by the county I live in.
My county does the same thing. I've been using this stripper for about a couple years
Thanks ***** for the info. I'm surprised the stripper lasts so long but I guess as long as it works!
I had some very sludged up rocker covers from hell. There were some sheet metal baffles inside so I could not use mechanical means to reach inside the shrouded part. .I took a gander and saw that the oven cleaner was lye. It is sold as drain opener in powder form. You MUST put it into solution by adding the powder to water before you put it into your five gallon plastic bucket. It will melt a hole through it! It generates so much heat it will literally burn your skin off. But it will de-sludge inaccessible sludge like the spray oven cleaner only cheaper. You must be really careful of the high temperature created when the powder changer ito solution. After that, it cools down and is like ultra strong soap. I have been enjoying the Cobra build! Don't leave aluminum in it without you watching it. It may etch it.
That is interesting, thank you for sharing.
LMFAO!! I strongly advise AGAINST USING lye (Hydrochloric acid) to clean anything aluminum. Did you know that aluminum reacts with hydrochloric acid to produce aluminum chloride and HYDROGEN GAS "2Al(s) + 6HCl(aq) -> 2AlCl3(aq) + 3H2(g)" ??????
Hydrogen is extremely flammable and has no smell or color. Which makes it EXTREMELY DANGEROUS to your average person because even a tiny electrostatic discharge can be enough to ignite it, and they would have no way of knowing if they were at risk of accidentally blowing themselves up.
Great vid 👍 Is it ok to rinse the internal engine parts with water after using the degreaser? Will it not cause flash rust ?
Yes it is, just dry them and spray some WD-40 on them to prevent rust
I am working on a rather obscure car, a Volvo 1800ES. Your method of clean the engine parts sound good, though I would not use oven cleaner on the aluminum or brass parts. You mention bead blasting. I assume you are talking about glass bead. I have a blasting cabinet for non-machined parts such as suspension, brackets, etc. Just bought a bench top cabinet just for bead blasting so that I don't have the worry of stray aggressive grit messing up a machined or aluminum/brass part. What grit glass bead would you suggest? What about walnut shell blasting? Any experience and suggestions on working with that media.
Mag wheel cleaner cleans aluminum really good
Walnut shells would be good for that
Aluminium vaporblast
Thank you
Will you be showing how you recondition the seat on the rocker arms? (where the push rod rides)
This topic has come up on the SDC forums couple of times. Once recently
Before I forget, ... THANK YOU VERY MUCH for taking the extra time to not only make this into a educational video but also going into detail with the Studebaker details. I was on the fence with tackling this rebuild myself. Your videos and the ones to come for sure, have given me the confidence to do the job myself.
SDC forum member - what huh
THANKS PETE
I sure will do that Charles. Thank you for watching.
I wouldn't recommend baking anything in your oven unless its food. Can you give links for this bead blaster ? And the other cleaner you talked about machine.
You can do a web search for bead blasters
What do u think about cleaning with washing soda? I just got a 1953 farmall I took the head off and got a 20 gallon tub and mixed water and washing soda and put a truck battery and a 10 Amp charger on it and left it for 2 days took it out and water hose and it looks great 👍 👌 and for no more than the cost of washing soda 7$ big box it's clean and I didn't elbow grease myself to death just would like your in put about that way of cleaning thanks in advance I really appreciate your video I've been cleaning parts for over 20 years full time and finding a easier way makes my day and life better !!
If that works, great!
After you spray with over cleaner you can chuck the parts in the dishwasher. Just make sure the wife isn't home.
What's the wife have to do with it.....lmao
There will be hell to pay! But I use the oven spray too. In my Mopar 318 type rocker covers it was sludge city with unreachable baffled inaccessible areas, I put them in a five gallon bucket and put pre-mixed lye powder (with water in a Pyrex dish) and soaked for a few days and got rid of the sludge the cheapest way. You get the lye as "drain opener" at the home improvement store plumbing department. Be really careful with it! It burns!
That's a good idea, buy you're right, it's caustic
DO NOT PLACE OIL PARTS IN A OVEN YOU COOK FOOD IN
can you make pay for the time and dedication you put in to the job ?
Absolutely
but great effort though and thanks
hey pete how u duin man.. is thier anything i can do to a 2011 malibu 2.4 like engine wise and make it faster something out of the ordinary by replacing old parts with new parts and get a good decent maybe 400 hp or so?? js thanks
maybe something i can start first and then move up?? is thier a list what you would recommend me doing??
Not really. That is a stressed out engine as it is. You could put a turbo in it, but you'd have to change pistons and valves.
thanks pete.. how much would that cost in total??.. i live in san antonio texas by the way..
Hey Boss, I love the video but there's one thing that wasn't answered clearly. Can you clean your engine parts (Head Gasket, Valve cover, screws etc..) before reusing them to build your engine? Just wondering if it's safe for the engine and that it won't blow up or something haha. yeah, it's my first time working on an engine,
Absolutely, clean every part
@@PetesGarage do I need to lubricant any parts before installing?
Yes, use the oil you're going to put in the engine
Use Kerosene
That works
Did you say pea blasting or bee blasting whats that
Bead blasting
so why not just use gasoline instead of that expensive cleaner? Much cheaper and I think does the same job?
Gasoline is a fire hazard
@@PetesGarage very true, but better alternative then that $170 bucket. For example diesel, very effective cleaning parts and leaves a films that preventing the parts from rusting. I mean come on, for $170, i'll buy a new engine lol
Gasoline is a horrible parts cleaning solution.
@@whiplashmachine Depends what you're cleaning. For parts with rubber or similar fragile components, yes I'd steer clear. For classic car chassis, suspension and drivetrain components made entirely out of metal that get covered in decades worth of oil and grease, it is extremely effective. An hour or so of submersion will dissolve grease in every nook and cranny allowing it to be washed out.
Ask your wife comment was epic.
Well....some guys need to
Pete, Sir I think you are great, please wear rubber gloves when using oven cleaner, that can cause one massive burn and extremely flammable material on your skin. Where s the store for shirts.
Thanks Jonathan. There are a couple types of oven cleaner. The one I use is not like Easy Off, it's more organic and not dangerous to your skin, but the vapor is still rough
Please mention the organic brand of oven cleaner in future videos Thanks Merry Christmas
I will....Merry Christmas to you my friend
You have all that equipment in your shop just buy a parts washer
I had a parts washer. It just takes up space since I don't use it every day
which engine is this?
Studebaker 289
Hey what's up Pete??? How's everything? ??
What's up BADAZZ!!!!
Nothing much..Just enjoying my new job...
Awesome! good for you!
Great video but products are too expensive
It 's not cheap
Nice work....please use a better sound recording. Apart feom that Kudos
Ok next time
Pete,
Try using one of the purple degreasers "purple power" and a crock pot. It works great. Check out my video:
ua-cam.com/video/evMxeav22_U/v-deo.html
Dean
my machine shop will hot tank a whole engine for $75.00
Sure, but I do it by hand to inspect all the parts.
Petes Garage good point
I sure hope you don't dump all that shit behind your shed. LOL
Only used oil and paint ;)
You should mention that you didn't bake the Springs.
Good point
dude ultrasonic would have been way more efficient
Of course it would be, but I'm showing how to do it without buying equipment. I make videos to show people how to do it themselves.
yeah youre right, it is actually quite useful, :)
Man Pete, your kitchen is a mess
Only when I'm working
To much talking for a cleaning video
Thanks Chris
I disagree. I appreciate all of the details.
Hey man you really don't want to ask your wife to bake car car parts in the oven let alone bake car parts that has been cleaned in your household oven anyway, and has chemical solvents all over them that will evaporate and stick all over the inside of your oven and get on everything you and your wife and kids (if you have any of the above) consume!!! Not a very good Idea!!! Viewers plz use a separate oven that you or anyone will not be eating anything from!!!
That's why I don't ask....lol. But I do auto clean it after
if you have to ask your wife anything you married the wrong woman.
Absolutely