DON'T Buy These Boards from Lowe's
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- BECOME A MEMBER OF FINISH CARPENTRY TV:
/ @finishcarpentrytv
GLUE I USE: finishcarpentr...
INSTAGRAM: / finishcarpentrytv
EVERY TOOL I USE: www.amazon.com...
DeWALT LASER LEVEL I USE: amzn.to/2FI8Td1
15 G NAIL GUN I USE: amzn.to/36Mp44F
STUD FINDER I USE(FAVORITE): amzn.to/30moWXq
FAVORITE TRIM NAIL GUN(MILWAUKEE 18): amzn.to/37Rr3F2
MAIN MITER SAW: amzn.to/2SML4bF
ONLY UTILITY KNIFE I ABSOLUTELY LOVE: amzn.to/39GGYIb
MY TRACK SAW: amzn.to/36rLYy3
SMALL MITER SAW: amzn.to/36kkJWj
SLIDING MITER SAW: amzn.to/39yYo9w
GET A SHIRT HERE: finishcarpentr...
EVERY TOOL I USE: www.amazon.com...
VIDEO/CAMERA GEAR*
MAIN CAMERA: amzn.to/2Kk1Tan
LENS: amzn.to/2MReIej
SMALL CAMERA: amzn.to/2KlLbr3
MIC: amzn.to/2Kkbj5O
DRONE: amzn.to/2IPsby0
www.dfwcrownmou...
*above are affiliate links
The other deal with the coating is it chips and spalls when it gets nailed. Very time consuming to repair. Great video.
This is awesome practical advice, especially for people just getting started in the trades or DIY and homeowners! Spending a little extra on much better materials will yield a better finished product, faster! Thanks Richard, teriffic lesson!
Yoooo Vince my man!
@@jayrob7418 what up buddy!?!?
“Wayne’s Wall...party time...excellent”.
Would be cool to see that face of the board run over a joiner or a thickness planer.
@@FinishCarpentryTV Where in DFW (Fort Worth side) area do you get this? Thanks for showing this
In my experience, Lowe's and Home Depot's wood is barely a step above kindling. Heads up... they're never going to change. Support local lumber supply houses.
I would.. but I can almost never get out.. so since the local supply houses don't deliver and don't do 'retail' then it's clear that local supply near me effectively don't exist as a source for wood.
Easy, my locals have worse lumber than Lowe's.
I'm surprised the wood I get from Home Depot doesn't sprout leaves.
I think you gotta give the big boxes more credit... There was a time when plywood from my local HD was unusable - even for kindling. But lately their stock is reasonable quality. Not cabinet grade or anything, but reasonable for what it is.
@@indisputablefacts8507 laughing a bit on the mention of cabinet grade.
I was trying to build some cabinets.. ordered (for delivery) stuff to build some from Lowes.
None of it was usable for cabinetry - ok, sure for the supports (1x2s), yeah, and the hinge and drawer hardware, yup.
I had a large piece that was unusable because it had a huge knothole (or knot) on one side, and a different knothole on the back-side just 16 inches away laterally.
When verifying (pre-delivery) they said it was never less than grade B.
To this day, I can't find a use for the plywood.
This is a good home owner education. I’m also a finish carpenter in New England. A couple things I’ve also noticed with both products you are comparing is that due to the seasonal changes up here in temperature AND humidity, both products will have finger joint failures from the expanding and contracting. Both products will also have tannin bleed through. Both of these problems are not immediate, they take a few years to surface. I personally wish we had a supplier that would stock bare finger jointed material so that the primer is also up to us. Hands down windsor1 is a superior product, have installed pallets of linear feet of all shapes and combinations.
Man thank you so much for the explanation! The coped edge now makes perfect sense. I'm not a pro, just a lot of diy. When I buy primed FJ from HD I get that exact gap when doing pocket holes. I've always chocked it up to an experience or poor tools. I guess that's not always the case. I'll have to try out a local lumber store next time.
I install windows and doors for Lowe’s hahaha. The delivery people put packing tape on it and it takes chunks off every time. If it gets wet it literally melts.
Yep, I have seen that.
Thank you. As a DIY person who lives and works on a farm, information on quality material is a must. Nothing worst, in my experience, than getting materials (PVC, wood, metal, etc.) that are cheaply made and trying to do repairs with them.
I love working with Windsor one, the problem that I have is that my local lumber mishandles the boards, last week I went through a big pile of Windsor one to be able to get 6 boards. Most of them have dings, scratches and some big gauges. I tried delivery and they really messed it up with the forklift.
I agree 100% !
I love when they stack wood that is not supported properly on the ground and you get all this small gravel imbedded in the wood .
Last project I preordered windsorone and the lumber came wrapped and strapped to a 2x12 from the distributor. It was super clean. I go back a week later and grab a board that was in stock, dings and scuffs everywhere. If the piece is in a high visibility area it takes for ever to clean it up.
What also sucks are banding marks!
That’s not primer on the Lowe’s board, it’s candy coated.😂
I wonder if that's the Chinese boards they stock. I trimmed out my house myself and didnt like how their 1x's looked. Wound up using the Chilean 1x's from Home Depot instead, much better quality, nice square corners and thin primer. Filled and sanded the nail holes twice and used a foam roller with SW paint. Looks like a million bucks now!
m&m dip ship lath.
@@bigpjohnson doesn't make any sense to get wood from China. It's a pain in the ass and expensive to ship. Especially when the US and Canada produce the vast majority of the globe's lumber.
They are actually a type of powder coating for wood that is heat-treated. Jeldwen builds the door for them and the frames are the same way. If you buy an actual jeldwen it's primed completely different.
Isn't it deceptive marketing to sell the product as 1x6 when it doesn't meet industry standard dimensions for 1x6?
FWIW dept, a hardwood 2X4 for example, fresh cut from a hardwood sawmill has never been 2 inches thick, but 1-5/8" as standard in industry for many decades. Not to say a full 2" thick board is never cut, maybe specialty, etc.
@@pete49327 Standard dimensions for carpentry lumber, softwoods, has been the same in industry for over 50 years that I have been using them. 1"xX" is 3/4"xX"-1/2" while 2"xX" is 1/2" smaller in both dimensions. RAW, unplaned lumber is full size as called out. The reduction in dimensions of STANDARD lumber is due to the amount planed from sawcut in order to smooth, straighten and achieve the industry standard dimensions. Hardwoods and other specialty lumber has different standard dimensions. This is also due to the amount planed to smooth and straighten but less is usually removed as hardwood and other specialty lumber is more valuable and is usually planed by the furniture maker, boat builder aircraft constructor, etc. This video was concerning standard dimensions for carpentry lumber that the Lowes, Home Depot and some others don't measure up to. This actually applies to plywood, too. Also, the plywood industry has gone metric and standard dimension plywood thickness for construction grade plywood is no longer available either.
Deceptive? not if you know the actual versus the nominal size.
1/2" water pipe in copper is 5/8 OD & 3/4 in PVC or galvanized. Its all about the right product for the job.
Plywood is always scant on its actual thickness.
the more you know the more people will amaze you.
@@bobwoods5017 I understand that. Industry standard for a 1x6 is 3/4"×5-1/2" and 2x4 is 1-1/2"×3-1/2" but these boards DON'T MEET the standard. Callout size and actual size are standardized. When you design for standard and the material is shy of standard, more material is required than would be with standard dimension materials. All builders understand this. The "callout" size and actual size were standardized for building materials a VERY long time ago. Pipe callout size and actual size are also standardized...within their industry.
A moisture meter might have been an interesting test too. If the one board felt heavy, that will probably indicate a high water content, which suggests a board that will have problems as it dries on your walls.
I supply the secondary lumber processor that fingerjoints and primes the product that is in the big box stores. The softwood spices that are used are everything from four different spruce spices to five different balsams plus white, red and yellow pine. The density between all these softwoods varies due to the growing season and the resin in the wood. This is what give you the weight difference. All the processors of fingerjointed and primed lumber are held to only use KD lumber that is dried to 12 percent moisture or less. The glue in this process only works if the lumber is KD to 15 percent or less. This product is marketed to the developers apartment owners and those looking to put as I say lipstick on their pig. The custom home builder is not what this product is going to satisfy. I been manufacturing and developing processes in producing fingerjointed lumber then is then primed with various coatings for now over 45 years. A Hugh learning curve at great expense over those years has brought to what you see in the market place to day. For the most part all fingerjointed lumber primed or not is from low grade what is four common or less. The average length of a fingerjointed piece is between 8”-14”. If you look at most softwood trees that is the distance between the branches or what is a years growth for most softwood spices. I understand why this craftsmen felt compelled to make this video. But the product was never intended to be a high end product. The big boxes are the ones that wanted this on their lumber racks.
I produce over 30 million bdft of this product a year and have seen growth in the market of 10 to 20 percent every year. I don’t think it’s going to change. I will be increasing production to be double by 2025 only because the market needs it.
Great video!
2 factors missed on how it’s sawn and milled.
Grain orientation: plain sawn will cup
rift sawn Will less likely cup
Finger-joint direction Windsor boards are edge joined and the other was face joined.
To be fair, with finger-joined boards, the grain & cut of each finger-joined section are likely to be different throughout a different piece, which will work to resist deformation. Also, the super-thick coating will result in much slower (if any) moisture movement into / out of the piece. Cupping isn't really a concern I would take from this. My only real concerns are the off-sizing, lack of square and the way the coating is prone to 'chipping' when worked unless you tape it prior to cutting.
@@melmartinez7002 fingerjointed material still cups twists and bows, Windsor is rated as an exterior product also. Believe me that thick coating does not protect from water wicking, the box store finger joint wouldn’t survive outside
@@dylanhatch4086 I wasn't saying anything about using these sort of boards outside. Fundamentally, wood changing shape - bowing, cupping, etc. - is due to moisture moving in or out of the wood -- drying out or absorbing moisture from the air. This happens even indoors, depending on the relative humidity of the air in the building. Moisture ingress/egress is likely to be a much slower effect on coated boards.
Finger jointed boards tend to have the grain oriented differently in each section. So any shape changes will tend to be in opposition to each other. This is certainly not proof against bowing, but will definitely provide some resistance to it.
Unless you are using these boards in an environment where you expect wide differentials in humidity, I repeat that I just wouldn't personally be as concerned about the possible shape changes as I would with the more up-front problems of being off-size and not square and the ugly chipping that happens with that coating.
@@melmartinez7002 yeah I hear you, and as far as my original comment, i know grain direction varries through out any fj board, i also meant the direction the finger joint it’s self, Windsor’s fjoints are edge jointed instead of face jointed perpindicular to the widest face of the board. Hard to explain you can see it in the video though
One thing I noticed is that coating is water soluble. A couple of pieces got rained on and after they dried they were glued together.I pried them apart and the coating pulled off one board and stuck to the other making a gouge in one and a glob of double thickness on the other. So don't spill anything on them or let them get wet.
I wonder if it’s thicker in the middle to fill in any cupping of the board.
That's what I was wondering. They plane one side totally flat then just fill the imperfections on the other side instead of planing any further and risk thinning the board
Yes, it seems like a good idea actually.
U hit the board on the head! Yes it’s a perfect planed down 1/2” and to make 3/4” u needs car bondo!
the reason the coating is so thick but also uneven is that it's likely cheaper to rough plane the wood (rather than drum sand) then use the coating to "self level" on the top and then send it through a drum sander since it will smooth easier. In reality it should be much cheaper than the quality stuff, but for a big box store and DIYers, it's "good enough" plus that 1/2 inch they skim off the width plus the 16ths they skimp on the thickness multiplied over MILLIONS of board feet likely adds up big over time.
The details make or brake the job. The quality of the product is a reflection on you so use the best.
They're primed prehung doors have the same issue with the chipping on the jams.
Always can expect to learn something from this channel these videos are very informative thanks keep up the great work
You are so right on the Lowes board. We ran into a problem with the measurements on some boards from Lowes and the salesperson educated me on them and boy, were they off. We didn't get them. Thank you.
Unfortunately, WindsorOne is not in my area, and the closet distributor is the next state over. 😞 maybe things have changed in this past year. But, they ship only with a min order, as expected.
So, it seems that if you have to get S4S pine boards from a big box store, don't get the primed boards. I have noticed the non primed boards they are actually 3/4" thick, but you have to pick through them to find the straight ones.
Btw, congrats on making the WindsorONE website. They feature your picture frame moulding design.
I noticed with the "royal building " pvc trim boards they seem to have what appears to be a solid jacket of pvc with a core not as dense as other brands pvc (azek, trubuilt)
Gesso hide imperfection in wood for a smoother finish. Also quickly dulls your saw blade, like fine sand paper.
Can be hard on your lungs to
I was rounding over some edges on some coated 1 by a awhile back, it was a small brass pilot bushing bit, and that coating literally ate the bushing off of it. I just happened to notice it was leaving a small lip on top and that's when I noticed the bushing was gone. Outside corners will be sharp as a razor too, which is great in one way and horrible in another.
Clay is mud, mud is fine rocks.
My Lowe's stores all plywood sheets on crooked beams. Can't buy a straight piece of ply. I have to go to Home Depot.
I tried to find windsor one materials but the yards around here wouldnt do business unless you buy a large amount. I just finished my shiplap project and wrapped a wall with miter cuts. I had to get the boards from Home Depot. I spent hours going through the boards because so many were cupped and made my miter cut look bad. Luckily I found enough to complete my project successfully but I tried everything to get a quality board. Just wasn't happening!!
I have to ask..why are you using 3/4" stock for interior wall finishes? We do a lot of accent walls in commercial elevator lobbies (natural) and we use a lot of veneer. 3/4" stock seems like a waste of lumber.
I love/hate the depth of differences between manufacturers/distributors at the product quality level.
The big businesses cheat and get away with this ish because people are ill-informed.
Good on you for continuing your learning and thank you for teaching. 🤝🤜👍💪
Man, the shiplap was exactly what that wall was needing. It really looks good.
Looks so good, don’t let my wife see it!
That stuff is GETTO
It will be outdated and torn out in a few years when it’s more of a trendy embarrassment than it already is.
I friggin hate the look of shiplap. You want shiplap buy a boat.
It’s ghetto if it looks like shit-lap...
I work for a local lumberyard as a inside salesman and just to add to your discovery. A big box store will sell right underneath our margins to undercut our prices with inferior products and if customers actually knew how much it cost us to buy the exact same product these big box stores buy, you would be baffled on how high of a profit margin these big box stores make by fooling customers with these cheaper products. I know it's hard to trust salesmen because we are commission based but trust me that big box stores are not offering you a better product at a cheaper rate. Find yourself a reliable, knowledgeable and trustworthy lumberyard and support them instead.
I wonder if the jesso coating wears out your blades faster? Something to consider if you’re using 1 to 2 hundred dollar blades.
Rich, that ship lap came out really nice. You guys are craftsmen.
For openers, seeing that chip out on the Lowe's board is deal breaker. I've always thought that for DIYers, like me the lumber yards
would be cost prohibitive. I'll sure give them a try, Thanks for the 411.
As I use glue, woodfiller and bondo I never have had a problem with homeowner about finish in different brands of boards.
Where do you get Windsor One boards. The website shows no dealer in the south, not even Dallas area. I am in Louisiana, but for that price I will pick up in Dallas area.
I feel terrible when a client insist on cheap low grade lumber because the headaches and waste just offset that savings. And makes it so hard to work with. Now I am armed with the info to discourage that. Thank you!
There are some things you just can’t get at Lowe’s or HD . Not even if your looking for a deal.
I love working with Windsor boards. I don't generally buy any lumber products at the box stores, and I was surprised to see that thick coating on there.
"Man, these boards are lousy, can we fix them drywall mud?"🤣
You have the knowledge young man. Excellent presentation.
Its not only about quality, its about availability as well. They call it the Wood Shock. The DIY stores in my area only sell finger-jointed pine covered in melamine or lauan veneer (Philippine mahogany). Same with plywood. Only basic construction grade stuff, three to five plies regardless of thickness, surfaced with lauan and not very good quality lauan at that. Must be handled with thick leather gloves because the stuff is so ridiculously splintery. I also can't find Baltic Birch plywood in any grade anywhere.... :>(
Yeah, a quality local lumber yard is the only way to go. I wouldn’t even buy a $5 2x4 from HD, or Lowe’s.
Trying to find the aftermarket fence on your slidesaw, do you have a link? Thanks
Agreed, the Lowe's board is a lower quality product but it would have been nice to use the small of cut board up against both boards instead of switching from one board to another.
Those lowes boards work great to replace facial boards on old homes. Its the same thickness and the round edges line up perfect
Glad to see you leave MDF.. Hate that stuff
Looks like Lowes is only planing one side and hiding the cup with primer.
The thinner edges are likely from cupping. They can dry the wood faster and if boards warp they use the clay to even it up, that's my guess
big box stores buy from the cheapest supplier and sell for the same price or slightly less than their competitor. - and people flock to them without comparison shopping, because they are conditioned to believe big box store = great prices.
Nobody is ever gonna know the difference... sheeeesh. The clay primer is actually easier to sand smooth (doesn't usually even need it) and has a harder finish (chip and scratch resistant) once painted than the pine.
Home Depot and Lowes sell poor quality materials to homeowners that don't know any better. I worked as a carpenter for decades and I would not shop at either of those stores for my materials. A good chunk of the products sold at the big box stores is suspect. That goes for the lumber, plumbing fixtures. tools, etc. If a name brand product has a part number you're best bet is to check the number and make sure that it's not exclusive to that particular big box store. They will have products manufactured to meet their price points with out any regard for the decrease in quality.
that clay/ primer stuff on the lowes board will dull your plainer blades real quick. thanks for the video!
Wondering why you stopped using MDF
I do shop at Lowes, mainly because it's close. I buy some electrical and plumbing stuff but no tools and definitely no wood of any kind. Maybe just this Lowes store, but all wood is crap. Really bad. HD is farther to go but wood is decent. For moldings and millwork have a real lumberyard available. Lowes sales people are useless too. Just from my experience.
I’ve cut these from Lowe’s and found 3/8” of primer in spots. It’s ridiculous.
Well done brother. As carpenters and business owners, it's upon us to educate our clients. So many of them are blinded by the siren song of cheap materials from the box stores without knowing the real differences in quality. The box stores purchase millions of board feet of substandard lumber that was cut from the worst part of the tree and then pass them off as standard grade. Their marketing platforms are deliberately based on their typical weekend warrior customer being too stupid to know the difference. Its insulting to contractors and homeowners alike. I always advise our clients with the phrase "Blindly buying building materials from the box store is no different than blindly buying a wedding dress from Wally World - you aren't fooling anyone."
Great video Richard, thanks !!
Thanks for the info.
Trickery and bullshit is everywhere now. It's exhausting to constantly have to check behind people and products all the time. Long gone are the days where reputation actually matters, apparently. I'm glad Windsor seems to stick to producing the good stuff.
GREAT VIDEO thanks for the info
Very educational, thanks.
Another example of ripping off the consumer. Another important thing to consider is what is the health effect on your lungs with that clay like material? Does the manufacture tell you what the material is ? What are the effects of the coating?
Good looking out
I ran into this 'trap' some years ago, when repairing trim boards on my house. That's when I discovered the reality that one supplier's "1 inch" boards are not the same as another supplier's. And that, unfortunately, also held true when going to different 'local' lumber suppliers. (And of course, whomever the supplier(s) was for the builder who originally built my house, long before we bought it.) Our house already had numerous odd-size choices such as slightly lower ceiling heights, all probably made in order to save costs. So this isn't really exclusively a 'big box' store problem.
I now always bring a tape measure (or pick one up in the tools section) when I go to _any_ lumber supply to pick up boards and measure carefully so I know what I'm getting before I bring it home. I also try to take into account - will the piece be flat-joined (beveled or butt) against other trim? If not, you can sometimes get away with using a different thickness.
Assuming you bought all your wood for a project from Lowes (or any single source), the problem of the odd sizing goes away, because your pieces will match dimension on joinery. And contrary to some of the comments, the fact that these are multi-section finger-jointed pieces that are so heavily coated means they are actually fairly dimensionally stable. Moisture movement into/out of the boards is not really happening, assuming proper carpentry and prime/paint of the cut edges.
But the lack of square edge corners and proneness to chipping by the extreme thick coating are still problems, when doing a large project or many projects because they just create more work after assembly in order to fill with caulk or putty (if needed). That's just too expensive on a large scale. Not so much for a small DIY project where it's less of a big deal.
You aren't joking that stuff from lowes is garbage I've had some of that stuff where that coating was an 1/8" thick
Do you scribe the boards against the wall?
Where did you get the yellow plates on the mitter saw?
The big box stores are not going to change; they consistently reduce quality to increase profit. Even machinery like lawn mowers; the Lowe's model and the identical model from an outdoor power equipment store will be very different products. Lowes used more plastic and thinner metal.
They consistently aim for the bottom end of tolerance for what is acceptable.
Its like a bag of anything at the grocery store every year they take a little bit out but put it in the same size bag
Don't have any choice in my area. Lowe's is the only place that sells lumber in this area.
Those would make nice ashtrays.
Usually more primer then that
*than
Those primer chips on the Lowes boards are a real problem.
Not to mention, that gesso coating kills your blades.
No doubt W1 is nice stuff. I used a combo of lowes and HD trim in my house. Between the two, Lowes had much nicer stuff than HD. Lighter, smoother, and a more consistent. That clay coating was TERRIBLE for the lungs, though! Probably like smoking a pack of cigs then going for a jog lol
I never, ever buy lumber from Lowe's and very seldom from Home Depot. I have my favorite lumber yards that stock quality building materials. And they're not much more than big box stores and sometimes less or the same. I have never had a customer question my material prices. For one, I give the customer all the material invoices and I have never up-charged for materials. All my profit is from labor. And yes, I do charge for my time getting materials and planning the job.
If you're doing any kind of high quality woodwork always hand sellect 4 quarter from a lumberyard , I pay a little more but well worth it , you have no business being at home desperate or loathes , Ive been following you for a while now , you're doing great love your vids
I only do wood, you can do what you want with it when I have nailed it up
The coating makes up a slightly cupped board I’d say
Wow wish I would have known this a long time ago
Deck boards in 2020 from Lowes were bad bad quality. Warped, uneven, not squared. Always look at every single board in the stack! You will end up returning them if u dont check. Low quality are hidden at the bottom. This is probably shipped this way to the store. Lowes doesn't like it when i visit. I pull off ever board and restack them. They are being stamped high grade and they arent! Also many boards were still soaking wet from treatment which isnt good to install until dried. I wont say what state but they were shipped from southeast state mill. They were all stamped same grade. Ripoff! Also the marketed coated "yellowish" deck screws all break off. Bad bad quality.
I hate buying lumber it is all junk. Where do they send the good stuff? It is not sold at your local yard.
This guy is legit 👍🏼
The question everyone needs to be asking is why do people buy primed Lumber in the first place? And the answer to that is because it cuts down the production time of any trim work you do by a considerable amount of time to get to the overall finished product after painting. And if you're talking about the quality of Pre-primed wood as opposed to stain Grade Grade wood there's no comparison but you're not using it for the same thing are you. Obviously any project you're using this preprimed wood for is a project that's going to need a final finish coat. I can tell you straight up if I'm bidding a painting job and the Carpenters aren't using pre-primed Lumber the cost for that project is now double. I guarantee you preparing unprimed Lumber and to make it look good requires twice as much labor because wood that you can buy in today's market is garbage. I personally love this thick primer coat on this wood and if there's any issues with it I can fix it very quickly you can't do that with a primed Lumber with only one coat on it.
Did you say $0.14 cents per board? Maybe I'm missing something.
good and useful information
Just more proof you get what you pay for. Cheaper isn't always better. I'm just curious, how much damage does that coating do to blades, etc. Cheers :)
Why is that called shiplap? I see no tongue and grove. It looks like wood stacked upon wood. Flat sides? ...jc
I like the quality of your work
I have bought boards from Lowes that came from Finland.
Excellent video!
I always thought going to a supplier I’d be paying a lot more, thanks for the comparison of prices. Definitely worth paying a little more to save time, and gain quality! S/F
I found this when I started to buy paint commercially but the biggest change to my life was when started working with an abrasives supplier. I use different tools, buy less expensive sanding disks that are higher quality, so many things.
Big box stores are much more expensive to run than lumber yards or warehouses, and the consumer pays for it!
@@2003Trailblazer Think about it, big box stores warehouse 95% stuff that you yourself are not going to purchase. And like Ryan says, you pay a premium on that which they reduce by volume but only so much. You can usually order through a smaller tool dealer exactly what you want, lots of them will have special rebates they can offer you and process for you.
Lumber yards have 2 sets of pricing, one for contractors and one for everyone else. You will pay more for everything but the increase in quality is well worth it.
Yep. We re-did all the baseboard in the house and HD was 2.34 a foot where local lumber store was under $1 per foot. Both primed FJP. 36 16 foot boards and it adds up. Same thing with some crown. Just 5 16 foot pieces, but it was a Sunday and the lumber yard wasn't open. Went to HD and said nope I can't do it. I'm not gonna pay $180 for the same thing that is $80 if I wait until Monday.
One other thing is the difference in finish carpentry vs rough. Had same guys who put in luxury vinyl and carpet do the base and shoe as well as some rough carpentry (replace water damage in areas of floor etc). Great for the vinyl, carpet, and rough but definitely not finish carpenters as far as just baseboard and shoe molding goes let alone crown.
I remember when Windsor one came out everyone was using them for exterior trim and only 5 years later we found our hybrid finger joined wicks water like a sponge.
3 Lowe’s executive’s disliked the video 😂
I could have used this video about 24 hours earlier. Every board at Lowes had chips like you showed and I was blown away by how thick the primer coating was. Great video, will be looking for better materials in the future.
If you find a flat board at Lowe's or Home Depot, thank your lucky stars because it's a miracle.
Wonder how much formaldehyde is outgassing from the boards.
by the look of the end grains, the Lowes board is flat sawn which has a tendency to bow down the center. I assume the thick primer is to hide the bow. I noticed the primer was thicker in the center when you planed one side of the board. The Windsor board looks like its modern quarter sawn, which is more stable
I think you mean the board is cupped or warped.
Finger jointed stock is a hodgepodge of flat/quarter/whatever sawn scraps really… they’re chunks too short to do anything else with. All those chunks expand/contract differently and sooner or later you *will* see the joints through the paint.
@@HBSuccess That's why God invented popular.
@@toms641 Poplar?
@@toms641 Its almost as expensive as oak in my area. It will be MDF or FJ pine for me from now on.
lol, lowes are struggling in my area, most of them closed down and their stores in Wisconsin are kind of dead. I think Menards, Midwest largest hardware store, is hurting them too much here. Good video tho!
Yeah... The Lowes near me looks like a ghost town most of the time... Then home depot, literally a minute down the road is usually packed like it's Xmas. Very odd how bigger of a crowd they manage to draw in. Sometimes I go to Lowes just so I can get stuff in peace lol.
Wish Menards had a better hardware department. Their power tool lineup isn’t any good.
Menards sucks in my opinion. They built one 1/4 mile from my house right across the street from Lowe’s. I still turn right amd go to Home Depot. I don’t like Lowe’s either. Neither store keeps the finish carpenter in mind but I would 100 to one go to Lowe’s or Home Depot over menards. Their tools suck, it’s too damn big, and I hate having to go to this desk to order my material, then go to this register to pay for it, then go to my truck and have to go out behind the store. I bought a cpl sheets of drywall from menards. Took me almost an hour. I can load up drywall on a cart in Lowe’s amd Home Depot and go pay for them easily amd have it loaded in my truck and on my way back to the job in ten or fifteen mins.
@@Senpany_kit_abuse and do you ever get the 11% back. Few times I sent in receipt I never got my discount back. Menards is piss poor on safety. It sucks when you want to get something and the aisle is closed because they are getting something down in an aisle next to the the aisle you want to go down. Home Depot and Lowe’s does this for customer safety wich is great. A Lowe’s by us had a fatal accident. A Menards worked pushed a pile of tile down on a customer killing him. Might take a little longer to show at the other stores but much safer.
@@AlexKunstar same in my area. I prefer Lowe’s for this reason, but I never purchase lumber from a box store. At least at Lowes the store is clean & organized. HD’s in my area look like they were hit by a hurricane.
Love the honesty. I always learn something from your videos. Been doing finished carpentry for over 50 years. Good info.
Lowe's "The Harbor Freight of Home Depots".
Lowe's Blows !!!
Heck no, Home Depot has atrocious service and electrical supply, as well as laminate flooring prices being way higher than Lowe’s.
Everything is getting added clay these days. I've noticed even recycled paper and cardboard have very high clay content. I can't burn them in my incinerator anymore, because it all fills up with clay in no time.
A home incinerator? That's just a little sus. lmao
@@davidpetersen1 my grandmother criticized my incenerator once. Once.
@@JW-el5cy No doubt the family is still wondering about the sudden departure on an endless world cruise. Keep those postcards coming!. lmao You a head boiler as well? Got stuff on the stove top?
As a very young child I remember the 55 gallon incinerator being fired up nightly. One moonless night my older brother's friend ran into 💥 the now roughly 30 gallon incinerator causing the nicest display of sparks 🌋 and a trip to the emergency room for him......Don't run barefoot in the dark in a yard you've never been to before
@@1STGeneral Always good adivice.. to not run barefoot at night in a strange yard. lol
Same here in Michigan, the lumber stores are completely competitive with the big box stores, and the bonus is, all the lumber stores sell a much higher quality product. I never understood when I see “contractors” buying finish carpentry materials from the big box stores.
I get it, not every carpenter is as picky as some of us are, but the comparisons in quality between the lumber stores and big box stores is night and day … )it only makes sense).
That shiplap job you did is crisp af… nice work as always Richard..
Big box stores you have to load wood on cart and then go pay. True lumberyards you can pay then pull to pile of wood and load truck feet from the pile of lumber. Anything more in cost at lumberyard is saved in speed of loading. Or at least it is for me.
@@kevinmeyer8068 absolutely worth it. I build in a busy metro area with around the clock traffic, so whenever possible have materials delivered. My moulding suppliers and lumberyards deliver for free or charge a delivery fee that is less than what I would pay one of my guys to gopher it. Whatever material is culled from the delivery we just send back with the next drop, or if it at the end of the project, we’ll return it when heading that direction. I really try to limit wheel time, as it’s not the best use of my time.
@@FinishCarpentryTV isn’t there a good lumber yard in FTW , ?
We all started from the bottom, and we are all guilty of doing crappy jobs because of the budget, because we all know that it doesn’t matter how good you are if the material is crap. Some people prefer to spend their money on appliances or light fixtures instead of finish carpentry or even cabinetry.
I believe that if you are proud of what you do and do good craftsmanship eventually you will have the chance toleave those jobs and move to work with better budgets, and then when you put together your craftsmanship and good materials, the result it’s so good that the rest just comes by itself..
Lowe’s is well aware of what they’re selling, it’s all based on price. My cousin is the owner of an international bearing manufacturer and goes to China to have things made and he says that what you spec is what they produce and if something if questionable is because you let it occur.
He said they don’t want to lose customers so they don’t make it up on the fly.
One of my customers wives work for Home Depot corporate and says that say a range hood was returned and it’s missing the hardware to mount it they will put it back on the shelf hoping customer # 2 has screws etc to install it and it doesn’t come back again. They do get a margin on defective returns, returned things don’t always go back to the vendor so that range hood is all profit.
I only buy my lumber from a quality local yard and it’s delivered for free.
The 600 feet of crown molding was even carried (I helped) into the foyer and stacked to let it acclimate to the interior. Driver earned a $25 tip for that.
I've had the primer peel off on those big box store boards like it was static cling vinyl or something...
That is something, as a hobbyist, I would have never thought about. Thank You.
Exactly! Takes our hobbyist projects to another level of quality.