Good stuff, but to be fair, you get the same power out of stock headers and muffler, with just a decat link pipe and an ECU flash and tune. The stock headers are quite good on this bike. You can get nearly identical results from a $250 link pipe and then flash and tune that.
Yes to each their own. And the biggie is midrange power with this type of exhaust. Same could be said on the zx10r platform as well. Some people like full systems while others are perfectly content with link pipe and muffler 🙌
@@provenpowercycles I am fine with headers if they actually make more power. Some bikes do, some don't. And often, the difference is like 2-4hp... Depends on the bike and if the stock headers have CATs in them I guess...
Well this explains why it felt so lame when I test rode a 22'' MT-10. I own a MT-09 SP , it's tuned and it did 115WHP with all restrictions removed, so it's quite punchy. I expected the MT-10 to be on a different level, but riding one in stock form was very very disappointing. Judging by this stock dyno graph tho it makes perfect sense, 127WHP with the extra weight compared to the MT-09, ofc it won't feel any better. But after the tune it really looks like the bike wakes up. Thanks for the in depth video and explanation.
Yeah exactly. They are so neutered from the factory that it makes riding them not very exciting. They only can live up to their reputation once modified and dialed in! Then it makes for a 1000% different ride! Glad you enjoyed the video 🙌
No sir we do not. We can dyno it for you and get you an idea as to what the bike is doing in general and give you some direction but all in all, we don't do any carb tuning 🤙
You've increased the rev limit from stock 11400, by at list 400 rpm judging from your graph. AIS is not removed. There is a lot of juice out from that engine but you have to look around and with the proper software. There are many maps to play around with the new MT-10.
I agree. There are a ton of things we can always do per bike that comes through our doors, however, the people that set their own bikes up or have other shops set them up that are coming in, we leave the setups alone unless they are unsafe to run. Not everybike we video is actually setup by us. Majority of them are done by other people. You will know the ones we do. They are usually higher in the numbers vs a standard bolt on bike would produce 🤙
Called their shop to get my mt10 flashed, left 2 messages, no call back. Guess they don't need the business. Sent it to 2wheel dyno works. Runs like a fu@$en beast now.😊
It's a drastic change in throttle or ETV. Since these are drive by wire they aren't open fully to 100%, even though you are demanding, it until later in rpm range. When it jumps from one setting to the next essentially, you are skipping certain areas in the mapping and the ecu has to guess the amount of fuel being delivered based on the values in between those two respective points. It doesn't always come out super clean all in all, and we do go back and make minor adjustments after the "final run" to help smooth out the curve even more. We just don't keep abusing the bikes unnecessarily on the dyno for less than a 1% difference. 🤙 Hope that answered your question 🙌
It all depends on customer and application. Some yes. Some no. And depending on the bike, we can turn off the system thru the ecu. Some bikes we can only turn off the fi / check engine light if you remove the system.
A lot of the newer Japanese bikes are detuned heavily from the factory now a days. But the biggie is partial throttle. That is off substantially once you get rid of the catalytic converter.
After my flash I find the B mode hunting on first gear when standing or just moving off it feels like it takes few milisecs for it put power down after 2nd gear and higher revs it’s fine .. A mode wow so not sure why my b mode is messed up
Not sure why. It all depends on the flash and how the mapping looks per mode. You can alter certain things per each mode and other parameters that are changed, carry across all modes.
@alf786 yes. There are a couple of features thru the ecu where you can minimize it. And you can also get a pair (or AIS) block off plates for your bike and install them also to help out with reducing it as well.
@donnyazoff980 what I'm showing is 100% throttle on the graphs. It's a little difficult to show partial throttle on the graphs because of the inconsistency in throttle input. However, I'm generally adding a good amount of fuel in most areas of these maps, so yes, in general, it will go through a little more fuel. But that also heavily depends on driving habits. I also tune for cruising on the interstate or highway type scenarios, which will still yield favorable gas mileage and won't just drain your tank. When I tune bikes, I go over almost every aspect you can think of so we cover everything and cater the tunes to what your intended purpose is for the bike (ie road racing, drag racing, roll racing, and overall street bike/daily driver).
Come to my shop so you can go thru the full experience. Or look us up on Google to find your answer. Not just a 20min youtube vid. Thanks for the algorithm bump 🤙
If the afr in dyno is 13.1 on the road is 13.3-13.4. What it means is less power. 👉Lower hp on dyno higher power in real life. 👉Higher hp on dyno lower power in real life. Dyno quens dont win races…
That's what the MAP sensor is for. If you are getting enough ram air effect to actually make a difference, the MAP sensor will see that and adjust fueling slightly. And you don't tune to an AFR, you tune for power. There is no magical AFR that makes the best power. One motor might be happy at 12.9 and another makes better power at 13.15... Even on the same motor, it might make better power at one AFR in the midrange, but prefer something different up top. A good tuner sets the bike up for a target AFR to get a baseline and know that it's "good enough and safe", and then goes in and hunts for power, typically up top... Sometimes a little lean is mean, or maybe it likes it a bit rich... you add or take away fuel till the power stops increasing, and that's what the motor wants. The AFR is whatever it is at that point.
Love the sound of a CP4.
Good stuff, but to be fair, you get the same power out of stock headers and muffler, with just a decat link pipe and an ECU flash and tune. The stock headers are quite good on this bike. You can get nearly identical results from a $250 link pipe and then flash and tune that.
Yes to each their own. And the biggie is midrange power with this type of exhaust. Same could be said on the zx10r platform as well. Some people like full systems while others are perfectly content with link pipe and muffler 🙌
@@provenpowercycles I am fine with headers if they actually make more power. Some bikes do, some don't. And often, the difference is like 2-4hp... Depends on the bike and if the stock headers have CATs in them I guess...
Well this explains why it felt so lame when I test rode a 22'' MT-10. I own a MT-09 SP , it's tuned and it did 115WHP with all restrictions removed, so it's quite punchy. I expected the MT-10 to be on a different level, but riding one in stock form was very very disappointing. Judging by this stock dyno graph tho it makes perfect sense, 127WHP with the extra weight compared to the MT-09, ofc it won't feel any better. But after the tune it really looks like the bike wakes up. Thanks for the in depth video and explanation.
Yeah exactly. They are so neutered from the factory that it makes riding them not very exciting. They only can live up to their reputation once modified and dialed in! Then it makes for a 1000% different ride! Glad you enjoyed the video 🙌
Insane power gains. Do you guys dyno older bikes with carbs? Trying to figure out where my jetting is at after street tuning with the butt dyno.
No sir we do not. We can dyno it for you and get you an idea as to what the bike is doing in general and give you some direction but all in all, we don't do any carb tuning 🤙
You've increased the rev limit from stock 11400, by at list 400 rpm judging from your graph. AIS is not removed. There is a lot of juice out from that engine but you have to look around and with the proper software. There are many maps to play around with the new MT-10.
I agree. There are a ton of things we can always do per bike that comes through our doors, however, the people that set their own bikes up or have other shops set them up that are coming in, we leave the setups alone unless they are unsafe to run.
Not everybike we video is actually setup by us. Majority of them are done by other people. You will know the ones we do. They are usually higher in the numbers vs a standard bolt on bike would produce 🤙
Explained well.
Thank you 🙏
Called their shop to get my mt10 flashed, left 2 messages, no call back. Guess they don't need the business. Sent it to 2wheel dyno works. Runs like a fu@$en beast now.😊
Sorry brother. Wasn't anything intentional. I'll ask our front end what happened with this. What is your name and number?
What's with the wacky afr line after flash? All seems fine until around mid range? Then it evens out...
It's a drastic change in throttle or ETV. Since these are drive by wire they aren't open fully to 100%, even though you are demanding, it until later in rpm range. When it jumps from one setting to the next essentially, you are skipping certain areas in the mapping and the ecu has to guess the amount of fuel being delivered based on the values in between those two respective points.
It doesn't always come out super clean all in all, and we do go back and make minor adjustments after the "final run" to help smooth out the curve even more. We just don't keep abusing the bikes unnecessarily on the dyno for less than a 1% difference. 🤙
Hope that answered your question 🙌
In general tuning do you block the pair vavle install block off plates 🤔
It all depends on customer and application. Some yes. Some no. And depending on the bike, we can turn off the system thru the ecu. Some bikes we can only turn off the fi / check engine light if you remove the system.
Don’t get me wrong, 150hp is no joke but wow that engine is seriously de-tuned from the R1
A lot of the newer Japanese bikes are detuned heavily from the factory now a days. But the biggie is partial throttle. That is off substantially once you get rid of the catalytic converter.
@@provenpowercycles definitely. I don’t I’ve seen a bike nowadays that gives you 100% throttle at any meaningful gear or rpm
@@jockwithajoystick almost all of now are definitely restricted. Even if it's a little bit.
After my flash I find the B mode hunting on first gear when standing or just moving off it feels like it takes few milisecs for it put power down after 2nd gear and higher revs it’s fine .. A mode wow so not sure why my b mode is messed up
Not sure why. It all depends on the flash and how the mapping looks per mode. You can alter certain things per each mode and other parameters that are changed, carry across all modes.
How come you got pops and bangs when lifting off throttle?
It's in the tuning that I do on the bikes 🤙
@@provenpowercycles can you reduce this
@alf786 yes. There are a couple of features thru the ecu where you can minimize it. And you can also get a pair (or AIS) block off plates for your bike and install them also to help out with reducing it as well.
Nice job mate! Now the bike is no longer running so lean does that mean it will generally be using more fuel?
@donnyazoff980 what I'm showing is 100% throttle on the graphs. It's a little difficult to show partial throttle on the graphs because of the inconsistency in throttle input.
However, I'm generally adding a good amount of fuel in most areas of these maps, so yes, in general, it will go through a little more fuel. But that also heavily depends on driving habits.
I also tune for cruising on the interstate or highway type scenarios, which will still yield favorable gas mileage and won't just drain your tank. When I tune bikes, I go over almost every aspect you can think of so we cover everything and cater the tunes to what your intended purpose is for the bike (ie road racing, drag racing, roll racing, and overall street bike/daily driver).
How much to get all that done including parts and labor?
About $6k
AFR looks bumpy
Its only 100 tps :)
U never show other tps where all work is hiden. Do 100tps anyone can do
Come to my shop so you can go thru the full experience. Or look us up on Google to find your answer. Not just a 20min youtube vid. Thanks for the algorithm bump 🤙
If the afr in dyno is 13.1 on the road is 13.3-13.4. What it means is less power.
👉Lower hp on dyno higher power in real life.
👉Higher hp on dyno lower power in real life.
Dyno quens dont win races…
I’m sure there’s a ram air table if that airbox takes air from the front of the bike.
Most manufacturers are smart.
That's what the MAP sensor is for. If you are getting enough ram air effect to actually make a difference, the MAP sensor will see that and adjust fueling slightly. And you don't tune to an AFR, you tune for power. There is no magical AFR that makes the best power. One motor might be happy at 12.9 and another makes better power at 13.15... Even on the same motor, it might make better power at one AFR in the midrange, but prefer something different up top.
A good tuner sets the bike up for a target AFR to get a baseline and know that it's "good enough and safe", and then goes in and hunts for power, typically up top... Sometimes a little lean is mean, or maybe it likes it a bit rich... you add or take away fuel till the power stops increasing, and that's what the motor wants. The AFR is whatever it is at that point.