CONTENTS: 0:00 Intro 0:55 Front Driveshaft 4:59 Engine 16:36 ABS/Traction Control (3 Amigos) 19:54 Brake Fluid Reservoir 20:56 Crankshaft Position Sensor 23:32 Oil Pump (especially 2003 model year) 24:39 Frame Rust 26:24 Rear Driveshaft 28:49 Headliner 30:16 Center Differential Lock 35:35 Oil Leaks 38:06 Factory Service Manuals and Community Help 39:30 Final Thoughts If you haven't seen it, check out our more traditional vehicle review here: ua-cam.com/video/hWyN0qF666s/v-deo.html
The best part about the Disco 2's shortcomings is that you can get them for dirt cheap. I grabbed a clean '99 with a blown headgasket for $700 bucks. $300 in parts and a few late nights in the garage later and I have a $1000 Discovery that is a blast to drive!
Your advice about adding ZDDP rich oil to reduce camshaft wear is spot on. Here in the UK the Rover V8 was used in lots of cars and zinc additives really help.
This is the best Landrover Discovery 2 owners guide/ summary I have ever seen, bar none! Great work! I am a 2001 D2 V8 (4.0) owner in Australia (owned for 3 years) - most of the things you discussed have happened to me. Head gasket! Yes I paid for a new install, after blowing one, and immediately after i did an in-line thermostat conversion to an 83 degrees C (181deg F) t/stat and haven’t looked back. Australia doesn’t have a cold weather problem it’s heat we have to worry about here. Penrith HPR30 is the oil of choice here, Oil leaks are everywhere- keep it topped up. Three amigos are a part of life, but don’t cause any issues. Ashcroft CDL linkage, Rock sliders, heavy duty prop shaft are all future purchases at $1000 each. Parts are expensive but the car is worth it!! Keep up the great videos!
Jeff Addinsall hit up eBay. I got a new brake modulator block for $100. Got rid of the three amigos and the traction control is now awesome. Also you can get a pair of wheel hubs on amazon if the wheel speed sensor is the problem.
Jeff, can you eliminate the thermostat all together? I moved back to Hawaii and when I lived here back in the 90’s it was common to take it out all together in your cars. Having said that it was a 71 Cuda , so a very simple carb, no computer, push rod motor. Thoughts? I’m looking at a Disco 2 for sale and would eliminate the cats for sure! More power, better mileage and a lot less heat! Cheers
@@michaelm2502 Hi Michael I did the same thing years ago in an old Holden (GM) sedan I had, but the D2 BMW thermostat setup just runs too hot for Australian conditions. My 83 celcius setup is now spot on. Good thinking on the cats - under bonnet heat is a real issue, and we Don’t have emissions testing here.
I have a hand me down 2003 Disco 2 that belonged to my sister. In the last 5 years I’ve been through every single thing just listed in this video. Except for the transmission disintegration episode. I managed to change my driveshaft U-joints just in time. Thank you for this informative video. I’ll make sure to save it in my Discovery 2 file folder. Cheers!
I have a 2004 Land Rover Discovery with about 164k miles and live in the southeast of the USA. I use Mobil1 15w-50 ( has 1,800 ppm of zinc ) with Mobil1 oil filter and Dura Lube engine treatment. I have already replaced the head gaskets ( with non torque to yield bolts - used in the 1993 Range Rover 3.9 liter), intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug coils ( with wires and Denso spark plugs ), water pump, 180°f thermostat, coolant, coolant hoses ( even changed the plastic lines to rubber hoses ), camshaft, lifers, rocker arm assemblies, timing gears, timing chain, oil pump, front main seal, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, drive belt, idler pulleys, auto tensioner ( with metal pulley ), all four ball joints, front driveshaft, both CV axles, all four wheel bearing assemblies, rear driveshaft rubber part, windshield post covers, plactic trim for the rear doors, sunroof ecu, driver's door lock bar ( updated part ), AC compressor, fuel sending unit assembly, both leather boots ( for parking brake and transfer shifter), gas cap, battery ( redtop ), brakes ( all pads and rotors ), tires ( Nitto NT 421Q ). I resealed both differentials, transfer case assembly, and throttle coolant plate. I repaired the sunroof drain lines. Flushed the engine with automatic transmission fluid ( before replacing the camshaft and lifers ), coolant system ( with distilled water and dex cool ), brake fluid system ( DOT 4 ), and power steering fluid system. Cleaned the fuel injectors, throttle body, and intake system. I have also put dielectric grease on all the wire connectors and grounds.
That's a remarkable, expensive potentially and time-consuming list, I've driven nothing but old school Mitsubishi monteros for years and found a 2001 disco 2 for 3 Grand which has been owned and maintained by an enthusiast, but I could pick up good old school full size montero for $1,500 or much less for years, never having to spend a dime on them week after month after year , they're Mighty cool, but your intensive maintenance issues / needs indicates to me that I might just steer clear, this video was helpful but your comment told me a lot more than I ever could have absorbed skimming through things, how long did your process of upgrading and maintaining take? Got to be into the high four $ figures and probably a hundred plus hours? Neat trucks but...
@@GreenCanvasInteriorscape Doing all the work saves money haha. I recently switched to Shell Rotella T5. It's a good daily and project. I think it's a Land Rover thing you love them or you don't buy another/keep them for long. The biggest thing is if you keep on the maintenance and the little tricks, they can be pretty reliable. I have never been stuck on or off the road.
Thank you. I have a 2003 with 200,000 klms. I put in Castro classic oil with zinc and the correct coolant, but when I checked the clutch fan and the condenser fan they were not good. After doing a hour long run the clutch fan turn easily and the condenser fan was seized. The engine works great on a nice cool day in Alberta, but when there are things that are not working the way they should they show up on a very hot day in a traffic jam. That is when everything in the disco needs to be right, thermostat, fans and coolant
I own an 04HSE..one of the best videos I have seen on the Discos! You have nailed most issues. Here in AZ..plastic fails. I have split 2 over flow bottles (now Aluminum) and the “T” on top, replaced with all aluminum fittings. I believe the cooling system is the weak link on these cars. I relocated the thermostat to on top of the motor and have a hi-performance water pump! Use Mobil 1 Synthetic hi-mileage 5w/30 with only Maher filter & full bottle of Lucas breakin additive. 165,00 & going strong!!
Mine now has a fluke transmission issue, I can shift it manually, but not automatically and at half torque or it dumps to neutral. I’m thinking of trying to rebuild it myself as getting used ones to my location is cost prohibitive. The engine runs great still though!
1999 Model. AKA the green machine....ABS icon on for over 2yrs. Ripped headliner out 10yrs ago. Replace 3 window motors in 5 yrs. electrical gremlins here an there....219K miles. It marks its territory wherever it parks. It changes its own oil- just replace the filter. ❤️
I'd like to add, that in addition to rotella t6 5w-40, I use a MANN 950-4 filter. It's a Ford f150 spec filter, it's approx. double size for capacity, and has a hex on the end for easy removal. Also very heavy duty.
Just purchased an '01 Disco II. REALLY GLAD that I found this video. Looks like I will be crawling under mine tomorrow to check on all of the potential issues that were covered here. THANK YOU!!!
With my 2002 Discovery I remember that I did not have any issues with the a/c or the automatic transmission. Besides those two, everything else had problems. I am not kidding!
@@ForgottenWaypoints yes we have to constantly keep an eye on it and treat it. I’ve just bought a lanolin kit to do mine before winter as not only do I live near the sea but the salt the roads to death here as soon as their is a suspicion of ice or snow. Personally I wish they left the snow unsalted but I guess none 4x4 owners would just get stuck or crash!
I hear you. Salted snow roads here too. I actually bought some Waxoyl spray for my D2, but ironically I've used it all on my Toyotas. Land Rover may take a lot of crap, but in my experience their frame coating is 100x better than Toyota's!
Hi FW. Just a quick update. Ive installed an OBDll ultra gauge ,fitted the TD5 stat, changed The viscous fan , flushed the rad, replaced expansion bottle cap ,and refreshed the coolant .Discovery now driving 188 degrees to 198 Brilliant. It hasn’t gone over 198. Thats even driving it off road for a couple of hours. All that from an average running temperature of 210 to 223 in traffic. I’m happy out. Cheers for your advise and taking the time to explain, in layman’s terms what it’s all about. Peter.
I’ve had discos for 15 years and as a result, I’ve researched maintenance extensively for 15 years. This video is maybe the best I’ve seen... I’ve seen A Lot! Wading through forums is informative and can be quite fun when you have the time to do it but this video, at a high level, covers Tammy most of what we “Need” to know. Great job!
Doing research as looking to buy one this year and came across this - fantastic work! So much important info in one spot! Am now not scared, and will jump in. Cheers.
@@ForgottenWaypoints D2, D3 and L322 are all on the list! Modern air suspension is definitely appealing for the diversity of performance it could give. Sounds like with a compressor rebuild the reliability is quite good too. I'm leaning towards the D3 the most right now, but I haven't test driven anything yet. On the other hand the D2 has an aura about it that is really unique.
@@bradcomis1066 , D3 has the best modding support, but if you are ok staying stock there is something magical about the BMW designed L322...they are incredible machines. I like the '04 where you get the jag motor but still have the mechanical t-case and more travel in the crosslinked air suspension. I test drove an '11, and it holds up well tech-wise with modern cars. I loved me L322....just couldn't get past the 19" and 20" rims!
I owned a 2001 Disco 2. For meany years. I added a CDL from a 04 D2, Installed a 2.5 inch old man emu lift and added the Disco 1 rear spring perches. I now own the Toyota FJ Cruiser, But wanted to stop by and see my old rig. Excellent video!
If you have a disco 2 you typically love it and hate it at the same time haha. I have a 2003 with 91k miles and a fantastic interior and exterior. Daily driver. But in 18 months of ownership it has had: new water pump, new radiator, new thermostat, crank position sensor, an oil leak, a differential leak, and a handful of electrical issues haha. However, it has never left me stranded and I take it overlanding in Colorado a couple times a year. Beast offroad, looks great, but if you get one make sure you set aside a few hundred bucks a month into a repairs savings account, because your time will come haha.
Thank you for sharing this excellent buyers guide. I've hesitated from buying a 2004 disco II because of all the scary horror stories on-line. I'll definitely buy one now, and will use the information you provided to guide me.
Go ahead and buy an ultra gauge now. When you go to test drive a prospective D2 just plug it in and it’ll give you a lot of information on the test drive. Temp and codes are the two things to look for.
Good review. Slipped liner is actually less of a problem than straight head gasket failure and cracks between the bores. Even with the lower temp 3 way thermostat in the bottom hose is that when full coolant flow is required the 3 way still diverts coolant to the heater matrix under the dash. Removing it and using a top hose Mezerre or similar 82 degree C inline thermostat. Amazing difference. Still gets hot enough to heat condensation out of the oil, get to closed loop and have completely normal fuel economy. The 3 amigos are often just wheel sensor however when they don't go it is usually a crack in a circuit board in the modulator. You don't have to replace the modulator. Google WABCO ABS modulator Option B. The genuine German made rear rubber coupling is excellent. The front drive shaft...just get a Woody greasabe heavy-duty 1310 unis shaft. Excellent gear. Greasabe centre ball also. My D2 is just under 20 years old . Had since new. Used it a lot on beaches and never had a hint of rust. Cheers
I'm not a big car guy but I've been wanting to learn more about the workings and I'm looking at a 2000 disco 2. This video is an incredible help. I love how knowledgeable you are with every detail and how in depth you go with every description. Despite not knowing much about vehicles, I now feel fairly confident that I can go up to that car and check everything that needs to be checked before I decide to buy it
@@ForgottenWaypoints that's the idea! I'm trying to learn more about working on cars, I just haven't had a good chance. A fun car, and a great guide, sound like the perfect combo to get it started. I've also got a good buddy who has a Disco 1, so it'll be fun to go out on adventures
It's sad to see more younger guys not so much car guys. But working on your own hands , the greatest feeling in the world I know when you're doing it right from the start.😊
New sub here. Brilliant tutorial, I’m from Ireland and have a 2003 discovery 2 4.6L in Portugal. It’s a USA Jeep and has only 50K on it. Never been off rd. I plan to take it off road. Nothing too heavy . Beach, sandy and trail driving. Little or no rocks. I’m considering fitting the TD5 thermostat, and the ultra gauge. Save my head gasket. Cheers again for great video.
Great video, man! Owned my Disco II since 2018, and its been way more reliable than I had any right to expect. Anyway, you covered all the bases, I think. And 100% on the T-stat. When I installed a REAL temp gage, I was shocked at how high the "normal" operating temp was. I was seeing 230 on the highway, and it would usually spike to 250F when I exit the highway for a fuel stop! No wonder these things have a rep for eating head gaskets! The only thing you brought up that I wasn't tracking was the "guibo" flex joint. Might have to toss one on, JIC.
Awesome video! I have owned my 02 for almost 5 years, did everything you mentioned, the engine was rebuilt at around 100k with the top hat liners installed to prevent the cylinders to slip, and now it's still running like new at 151k
I'm jealous! I'd feel a lot better about life with top hat liners!! I'm using mine as a daily now, almost 142k on the clock and about time to replace the thermostat again (temps creeping to 194-199 at idle these days)
Absolutely awesome review - spot on! I have an '01 D2 that I bought as a pup in '03, and it now has just over 209k miles on it and still going strong - there's nothing else I'd rather drive (I have an '07 LR3 with 62k miles that primarily sits in the garage, the D2 is the workhorse). My strategy has been simple - to utilize the forums and RAVE to the fullest extent for education and guidance, to stay on top of/ahead of maintenance, and when I need to repair it, buy the very best parts I can find - fix it right, and then feel free to count on that issue not recurring until that part runs its natural life. I'd definitely attest to what you said about thermostat/head gaskets; I've had to replace head gaskets twice, but have had no issues at all since replacing the thermostat with a TD 180degree about 90k miles ago (also using green antifreeze). The Rotella oil you mentioned is a key tip too; switched to it about 100k miles ago, and my engine has no tics. My D2 is still stock height, fitted Bilstein shocks on it a few years ago, and it rides and handles great; passengers comment on how well it corners for a heavy vehicle. I've replaced the radiator, water pump (recommend brass rotor version), all belts and hoses, plugs and wires, O2 sensors and MAF sensor, but other than that and the head gaskets pre-180 thermostat, engine is a reliable workhorse with 4k mile oil and filter changes. Definitely agree that front drive shaft and thermostat are the key first things to do if someone buys one of these (my replacement front drive shaft is serviceable); I also think I benefitted greatly from my recent alternator replacement; bought the 150amp Bosch made for the Range Rover P38 (bolts up exactly the same as original). I had issues with the lazy braking you mentioned in another video until I installed EDC rotors and Akebono ceramic pads; no issues after that. OF KEY IMPORTANCE in looking at these vehicles, in my mind, is realizing that most of the work required through the years are things that would be required for any other vehicle if they're kept long enough and routinely used - with the only likely exceptions being the front drive shaft, power door locks/actuators (I've now replaced all 5 of mine, the auto locking/unlocking takes a toll on them through the years - easy process following the RAVE instructions), window regulators/motors (have now replaced all four - again, easy process following the RAVE instructions - and for this and door lock replacement, just be sure to stock up on panel clips in advance), and the throttle body heater plate/gasket is a pesky but easy to replace issue every few years. Agree also with your Lucky8/Ashcroft center diff shifter recommendation; I installed it and have used it without issue (their installation video doesn't hurt the eyes either), and it adds great capability. I replaced the rear flex coupler you mentioned just as a preemptive move; I drive this thing a lot late at night on 2-3 hour trips coming back from playing music with a fairly busy band, so I did that just for peace of mind. Which brings up another point you mentioned in another video - these things have wonderful cargo capacity! Rarely a week goes by that someone helping our band unload or load equipment doesn't express surprise at how much it will hold . . . the square shape and lack of angled glass allows for almost van-like capacity. I've owned Land Rover vehicles since the Range Rover first came to the U.S. in '87, and although this was my first Discovery, it has by far been my favorite of all of them. There's nothing quite like them, and I think they may someday be a bit of a cult vehicle and surge in value like the Defenders have. Thanks for your coverage of these great vehicles!
@@agilchrist73 Oh, people know about them all right - that’s why they are so cheap. Bought my 2000 D2 in near mint shape for $1,500 three years ago after the driveshaft punctured the transmission. The owner had spent $8,000 trying to keep the thing running for his daughter and was beyond fed up with the expenses. They will never be a cult vehicle because they won’t last long enough.
Just got into the market for a disco II, ive considered 80 series land cruisers and 4 runners but I love the character these things have. About to say goodbye to a Miata for this. Going to be my first offroad rig :-D
Well I have a TD5 D2 so I nearly didn’t watch this as I know across the pond y’all have the V8s right? But this video was soooooooo useful! Thanks a whole bunch of bunches for putting it up, great stuff - really! Thanks Guy
I had the three amigos on for almost 2 years until I read an article on the forum. I replaced the shuttle valve and did the reccomend work around. When I had 3 amigos I didn't have ABS which was scary. 2004 Discovery II, I bought it in 2008 with 35k miles now 168k. Been through alot with mine, thank god I can do my own repairs. I have the master cylinder oring issue in winter, replaced crank sensor twice, replaced cats, O2 sensors, radiator, water pump, headliner, LED headlights, front shaft, and much more. Steering is next. Yes, leaking is definitely an issue on L.R's. I parked mine in my garage for 18 months, recently fell back in love with it.
Very interesting, and very informative video! Thanks! Myself and the wife have two of these, a 2000, and a 2002, both 4.0 gas guzzlers, and have some of the quirks you touched on, and some things I never knew or thought about. Thanks Again!!
Thanks very informative. A parts man in a very successful rover shop told me that the electric AC fan is also for when the engine overheats. Mine will not move, it’s rusty. I took it apart, it’s not fixable.
If you're in an area or State with no emissions tests, besides the improved driveshafts do a catalytic delete No more heat issue and several more horsepower
Have you done this? Just got a d2 and need to do something about my exhaust as it’s bent badly. Was thinking of doing the delete but worried about bad back pressure.
With a proper running engine there's no impact on horsepower or heat. The heat comes from the manifolds. This isn't a 70s muscle car, the D2 makes so little power and cats are so free flowing you would notice the same difference by just using a lighter oil.
This is THE best, most comprehensive video out there on the D2. I really love mine and am very thankful for "discover"ing your video. Thanks for taking the time to do this...
Thanks, now if only my Toyota's would stop taking so much time in the garage, I can get the Disco trail worthy again (I've got a bit of delayed maintenance items to take care of)
"THE best", despite the fact that it fixates solely on the V8 model and completely ignores the TD5 which is overwhelmingly more popular everywhere outside the USA?
Great video. I’m looking for an inexpensive 4x4 for a second car to drive around town & do light off roading, & had always heard the horror stories about the old Discoveries. As an owner of a Ford 6.0 diesel, these issues seem like child’s play. lol
They are definitely finicky and time consuming, lots of little issues that can come up; however, other than a slipped liner, nothing is particularly expensive or out of the skillset of a DIYer.
I have owned many discos and highly recommend them on and off road. Because it's a luxury car its heavy, comfy and thirsty! British Atlantic has good 3 amigos vids. They sell good parts. The big issue in the NE is salt and the rear chassis. Not much you can do about frame rot.
Yeah, she's been neglected while I've been working on my Toyotas (go figure). I think I need to pull the rear axle and seal it up, the diff can't keep oil and my transfer case is really bad right now. I wish we had 48 hours in a day!
I have a disco 1 2000 td5 and wow great fun to own and drive lucky I was a RR mechanic and I have fun maintaining my disco and have met some realy good friends because of it
I'm probably going to end up watching this several times. T H A N K Y O U so very much for this info. I got my 2000 LR Disco around this time last year. It had 94K. It just hit 100K a few weeks ago. I did NOT perform all the necessary maintenance that I probably should have bc the person I got it from was a mechanic who said he'd fixed it for someone and then never heard from the guy again. I have the 3 amigos right now and it's been on for like 6 months. When I 1st got a reading i had a few pcodes that pointed to some misfiring cylinders. I got all of those replaced. Even tho the person that did it crossed some of my wires the 1st time he did it. A rear brake job and an oil change are the only other things I've had done. The guy told me he put a new belt on and head gaskets. Idk about the gaskets but as far as the belt I've had crickets for about a month. It could be a pulley or the belt tensioner big I'm thinking he just didnt do everything he said he did. I would love to just take my truck somewhere that I could trust and get her running like new. It runs really great now but if I could get some solid maintenance work done she'd be just like new. I'm a single mom that's not afraid to.m.mmbget her hands dirty. I've gotten under the hood myself from time to time. I just dont have the time now. If anyone knows of a place in Wisconsin or Chicago please share! Thanks!!
You have a very informative video that will guide me in buying a discovery II in the near future. I have a 2012 LR4 with 99000 miles on it. It has different engine issue but as long as you keep it maintained, it should not give you problem. I do the maintenance and suspension repair myself. It is fairly easy to maintain if you are a DIYer. I just love my Land Rover. I seldom use it for off-roading but I will be doing over landing this coming summer. Thank you very much for the much needed information.
The rear drive shaft Rotoflex coupling when new is really stiff, any cracking or softening will often cause rear axle vibration. It's a cheap replacement part - use a genuine one and it will transform the drive. I also suggest Polyurethane suspension bushes as original rubber ones will distort and make tracking difficult to set. Poly bushes will need a hydraulic press to do the major radius arms, but use for all ideally. This will make the car chassis feel like new and they are self lubricating!!!Kits are available with various firmness, make sure they come with stainless steel bolt sleeves.
Thanks so much for this video. Huge help. I just bought a 2003 with only 64k miles on it. It was part of a drug seizure and sat for 10 years. The exterior is beaten from the AZ sun, but as far as I can see, there are no leaks yet and it runs great. I'll be checking that oil pump and feeling around for the center diff lock (although it's probably not there).
Awesome vid. I have a 99 Discovery II, With 280,0000 miles. I have ALWAYS used Shell Rotella T. 15w-40. No problems . You did forget to mention not to talk bad about your Rover within hearing distance...It will break down on purpose to just piss you off.
Hahaha! Mines leaking in the driveway now. Most likely because I replaced my dino oil with synthetic, but I think it's because I've been wheeling the LX. If the stupid Toyota wouldn't require so much maintenance, I could give the Rover some needed TLC and get her back on the trail (she needs the leaks fixed, has a small exhaust leak now, and due for plugs )
Great video, everything he said is 100% accurate based on my experience with my 2004 Disco II. Once you dig in and get to know the truck it's not so bad to work on. My first repair experience that was frustrating was changing plugs, I pulled wires of and cracked just about every plastic tube under the hood. Talk about frustrating, anti freeze and vaccum leaks everywhere. Holy crap, the worst repair had to have been the ignition coils, no room to unscrew the bolts that hold the coils in place under the cowl. I probably should have removed the intake manifold and replaced the top half gaskets. I'm sure it's only a matter of time until I have to do it again.
well he did a good job but he is not 100 percent accurate. if you have a 03 in the oil pump failure VIN range you can not simply replace the oil pump. as you know the pump is actually a part of the front cover.. and during the machining process there was a dowel hole feature that was machined out of tolerance and not caught. I cant remember if the hole misposition was on the front cover or if it was the dowel pins that locate the front cover to the block. anyway the land rover fix for this during warranty was installation of a new longblock. so if you have an 03 in the failue vin range you are gonna have to replace the front cover (if that is where the faulty hole spread is located. or you are looking for a new block! Either way you will not simply be replacing the oil pump and moving on. I have an 04 SE7 with 85k and It is starting to do weird stuff. i bought it cheap knowing it had just overheated bad. so I jumped right into a head gasket replacement. I didnt want to do the inline thermo mod so i got a new land rover 180 deg and also a put in a new water pump , hoses, radiator and a heavy duty clutch fan. but im still floating around 200 and over sometimes according to accuguage. i dont know what im going to do next. I want to just put a new long block in and not have to worry about it for many years, hate to say it but im always thinking about boiling coolant on a long trip! I have the center differential and it is really really tight. im scared to engage it again. what do you have to get at to lubricate the shifter and linkage
@@matthewlewellen6516 I have a 2002 with a 4.0 and I got the inline thermostat mod and I'm running down in the 180 range constantly it's amazing! Also I got the coil pack relocation kit when I needed to change it do to a misfire and wow it is so much better up front
They make a relocation kit I just did it this weekend! Yeah you're right it's a nightmare I broke all kinds of connectors and vacuum lines along the way but now my coil pack sits up front between the alternator and the tire jack under the hood. There's a perfect spot for it and the custom wires run perfectly. You just get these harness extensions and then mouth is little bracket on your alternator and you have your coil pack right there in front of your face from here on out
This is probably the best and only information I can find that explains everything bit by bit in detail on the discovery 2 but the difference is my is the diesel td5 manual
@@ForgottenWaypoints sorry I'm keeping her as I just got her last year and needs a lot of work, it got around 230km (205.052 miles) on the clock and I'm from Australia but I'm lntending on bring her to the states later to tourer (overland) with a friend that lives in colorado
Just finished the same job today ( without hoist) . lying on my back for 4 days. forgot to put top tank strap back on so had to remove all tank etc again. Great How to video. thanks
I have the TD5 thermostat. It works well with the TD5 engine. Last summer, out side temp was 45C ( 113F ) The coolant temp, from the Nanocom was 95C (203F) Stationary at the traffic lights. When the car moves, the temps drop. This is with the A/C going full blast! My three amigos was fixed by replacing the hub, which comes with an ABS sensor.
just checked my front driveshaft and it was so dry. metal on metal - was probably going to fail anyime soon. thanks to the video . you saved my disco's life.
I'm coming at this all wrong, have already bought my D2 TD5 from a friend (cheap). But this is an interesting video with useful pointers at the most common issues. Thanks!
@@ForgottenWaypoints He says it's automatic, when it slips, it engages? I'm not convinced, but he has spent some serious wedge on this thing. OME lift kit, AMC cylinder head, every type of under body protection you can squeeze under it, list goes on and on. HOWEVER, the guy that was looking after it, has fitted a 10p ECU to this 15P engine, doesn't inspire confidence! Think I need to find a wet field, and see what it does.
Just an fyi, I have a diesel 6.0l powerstroke Ford excursion and I put in a Mishimoto thermostat and radiator. The thermostat is always open, which can suck in the winter, but I can almost always plug it in or let it warm up.
Hi there, hope everything is well. I I got my rover a few months ago and I just ran into my first three amigos issue, but my brake light is on and my check engine light is on as well. It also has a sinking cylinder sleeve, but I bought an LS motor not too long after the purchase. Hoping to see you do more videos on the rover. I hope everything is well.😊
the biggest thing on my list is the death vin oil pump, my low psi light comes on at low idle. I got lucky and someone swapped in the 2004 center lock guts and shifter so thats a nice bonus
Thanks. Just got my 2002 discovery (yeah I know. No diff lock. It was too good of a deal to pass on). Going to start with most of this stuff. Thanks for the info
Excellent well informing video! My 2000 TD5 D2 has never had the Three Amigo's (everything else has gone but not that) and I put that down to not dunking it in cold muddy water every weekend. Besides, mud is bad for the chassis. Too much sun on the headlining! Wow, over here in the UK it's leaking sunroofs that lead to dangling headliners!
My headliner is gone, not from water but from the desert heat! The glue is finally giving out, but I guess 21 years of glue next to black paint isn't too shabby really.
@@ForgottenWaypoints Nope, it's done pretty well. I'm still not sure wether to reinstate the diff lock. With a diff lock and tall tyres there's more chance of breaking a halfshaft, I think. Not sure.
@@sleepycatpictures1176 , Mud and high RPM is probably not best on the axles, I'm more familiar with rock, so it's opposite for me. If we don't have the CDL, you rely more on traction control which spins the tires more to activate, with CDL engaged, traction control isn't activated is often, wheelspin is minimized, and I would assume a lower chance of a shaft snapping. Honestly though, I don't think half-shafts are the weak link until you do lockers (front or rear). Your worm gear in the diff will probably break first, at least that's what I've been told. I haven't broken either (knock on teak!)
@@ForgottenWaypoints Mm, good point. Spinning wheels to activate traction control is half the battle lost. I was thinking more of a cross-axle situation where too much welly causes most of the power to go to one wheel. Anyway, you have done more rock crawling than I ever will so if it's not broken yet - carry on!
@@sleepycatpictures1176 , Yup, your situation is also at risk. With the CDL though you force the front and rear to spin at the same speed. Without CDL, you can get ALL of the wheelspin to one wheel. I had that situation once (not on a Rover, but a Jeep Grand Cherokee). It was not fun. Still didn't break anything though. "Bouncing" (the result of flooring it to get up a loose or low traction climb) seems to be the favorite method for breaking parts that I've seen, probably because it's a combination of all axle-stressing scenarios wrapped up into one battering moment after another!
One point to add about oil filters is there is a oversized version, I run the K&N 3001, holds about 1/4 extra quart. I also have a 4.6l which did not have the oil cooler that the 4.0l had. So I installed a 4.0l oil cooler and picked up about an extra quart of oil capacity and the cooler oil Temps. I also installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge linked into the timing cover/oil pump housing.
Massively entertaining and outstanding tips. I'm scratching my head over why I can't get my 2002 Disco II to shift into "Lo." Was getting stiffer and stiffer and now... It can't seem to find the slot. Wonder if other's have had that issue. I'm at 130k and everything else running great!
I know my D1 linkage the shifter was stuck because it was a physical linkage. I had to pull it and use break cleaner and grease to un-seize it. The D2 shifter is a linkage, so I don't suspect the cable would seize like physical linkage would. What is probably happening is the lock-out solenoid has failed (which is why I used a Dremel and cut mine off when doing the CDL modification. I'd ask on some D2 forums what they think it could be? There are some really good youtube videos (ashcroft's CDL install comes to mind) on taking the center console apart to access the linkage and solenoid. It's a bit time consuming, going carefully not to break plastic parts, but not hard. Might be something to look into.
@@ForgottenWaypoints Solving the world's problems one Rover at a time. Thank you for this. The solenoid has been mentioned as a potential culprit and after your comment here, I think I'm going to go forward with that maintenance approach. I see so many of these D2s on the roads here in the mountainous regions surrounding Los Angeles but I still haven't found where everyone is taking them for service. I can do general maintenance but my garage isn't equipped for the more serious repairs. I'll reply back with how this gets solved. REALLY appreciate the section on oil in this video. I was mostly doing it right, but never occurred to me to put in a diesel filter or to flip the washer.
@@briangroh444 , I hear you on maintenance. It's been a few years since I filmed this video and I've neglected my d2 and it's starting to bite me. They really do better when you drive them. Hopefully this year I can get my own back up to spec.
My recommendation as a mechanic and as a owner is to run penrite HPR 10 do not run diesel oil in a petrol or vise versa as it will cause more damage to the engine as it’s not meant for it and change it a around the tipical 6k km or 5-6 months and filter wise I swear by ryco
My fav is discovery one 300 tdi twin locked beautiful to drive simple and a weapon off road i use mine everyday I look for reasons to drive it it is however highly maintained and customised ...
I watched the whole thing, took 2 visits. Over 10 reasons not to buy LRD2. And I was seriously looking at these before I found an FJ that has no common issues. Having a LR does give you more ideas for content on problems. My only issue with the FJ is, it's a a magnet for pinstripes.
Temperature gauge characteristics exist in the discovery 1 300tdi also. No range, just a cold, normal, boiling indicator. After market digital gauge all the way.
Nice video, i am interested in either a disco I or a II, this video showed me not to be that afraid of a II series, i live in Mexico near the border with California and discos I and II are plentyfull and cheap, maybe all the retired dentist and lawyers from California dont want to hassle with repairs or they dont pass smog anymore so they sell them over here. I could take advantage of really cheap labor cost (compared to the US) in a specialized shop or even my own mechanic for the hard stuff. I plan on only using it for traveling and weekends so i wouldnt put the stress on it of a daily driver, in theory it should last longer. Now i am researching for a buyers guide on the Disco I to help me make my choice. Thanks for all the information.
@@ForgottenWaypoints Is the slip liners thing a random issue or it only happens if the engine is overheating? and the driveshaft overheating due to cats, if you live in a non smog compliant state, couldnt you just delete the cats and solve that issue for good?
@@ambienteterrazas , the slipped liner can happen at any time if your block isn't very good thanks to the expansion rate of metals between the aluminum block and steel liner. But it most likely happens following a head gasket failure. Removing cats is a federal offense, even in non-compliant states. The sealed U-joint can still fail (so can the greased one), so even on a theoretically cat-less D2 you don't just want to ignore the driveshaft and want to check it routinely.
Well, of course a Land Rover leaking oil is a feature. You have to worry when it's *not* leaking, it can only mean you're out of oil. This was both very informative and very complete, thank you.
Thanks man for this review and guide, it is very helpful. I´m considering buying a RRC 3.9, and some of the things you point out are very useful. I already own a Disco 300TDI, with 260000 kms, and I´m very happy with it. I think old LRs are the best compromise between on-road and off-road capabilities, they have issues and faults, but if you get a rust-free frame and body, the rest is quite easy. Thanks for sharing!
I’ve replaced a CPS. Not a hard job just extremely frustrating. The coil pack replacement is also unnecessarily difficult. I would love to have 5 minutes alone in a room with no cameras with a few of the people who designed the D2. Id make them feel our pain. LOL You are right about the LR community. I’ve been a part of many different enthusiast communities over the years and the LR community is among the best I’ve encountered.
Yeah you're correct the coil pack job is absolutely ridiculous but I just did my over the weekend and I bought a coil pack relocation kit and it was so awesome to put that manifold back with that coil pack out in the front of the engine from here on out. Now plug wire changes Take 5 Seconds. Also I did the inline thermostat and I run in the 180s
I did the shuttle valve , It took around 3/4 of an hour .You don't need to remove the abs unit , Just un bolt it and you can turn it up to get at it .I put a kit through the brake master cylinder !, ( IF IT IS SCORED REPLACE THE WHOLE THING .)Also loose battery cables can make the three amigos come on too !.
Yes It does .If you do the master cylinder kit ?.You can bleed the cylinder on its own . If you get air in the system ( OR IT HAS BEEN STUFFED FOR A LONG ) time bleed the brakes as this will get rid of the old fluid !, (AS BRAKE FLUID ABSORBS WATER ) And it is supposed to be changed at certain intervals , (IT WILL TELL YOU THAT IN YOUR BOOK ) .The quickest way is through the abs unit but you need a machine to do that ?.You can do it manually but you will use a lot of fluid ?, And you will need some one to operate the HDC , As well as keeping the master cylinder topped up , Do not put the expelled fluid back in !, AS you will create more probs !
ONE thing I forgot is Atlantic British have a you tube video on replacing the shuttle valve , And the master cylinder kit ,MAKE SHURE YOU PUT THE PISTON RUBBERS THE RIGHT WAY AROUND !!!!
Thanks for the the content! Just bought my 99 disco 2, and you were one of the channels I did my research on. I did the 180 tstat last week and I have the same temps you do 👍. I'm troubleshooting the 3 amigos. So far found one bad wheel speed sensor, replaced it. Just ordered the icarsoft scan tool to continue troubleshooting. I'm in MN so the cold winter coming had me wondering what oil to use... rotella? Maybe.
You'll want a 5w40 with zddp/anti-wear for all around temps of Minnesota. You can do 15w40 in the summer and a 5w30 in the winter and add zddp like muscle car owners, or use Rotella T6 5w40 year round.
you cant "just replace" the 2003 oil pump to fix the failure problem. a range of blocks were machined with the front engine cover dowell pin location feature out of tolerance and this causes the premature oil pump failure. This was a warranty issue for 2003's in the VIN range and I believe the fix was a new long block.
Thankyou very much fo this excellent video! I live in europe and so buying a V8 is not an option! (fuel costs) It's the wonderful td5 for me! I have been apprehensive about these vehicles, but you have put that worry to bed!! Many thanks indeed!
I hope you have a good experience! They aren't perfect rigs, especially being so old now, but find a good one and you and the community can keep it running as a DIY. It gets pricey if you rely on a shop.
CONTENTS:
0:00 Intro
0:55 Front Driveshaft
4:59 Engine
16:36 ABS/Traction Control (3 Amigos)
19:54 Brake Fluid Reservoir
20:56 Crankshaft Position Sensor
23:32 Oil Pump (especially 2003 model year)
24:39 Frame Rust
26:24 Rear Driveshaft
28:49 Headliner
30:16 Center Differential Lock
35:35 Oil Leaks
38:06 Factory Service Manuals and Community Help
39:30 Final Thoughts
If you haven't seen it, check out our more traditional vehicle review here:
ua-cam.com/video/hWyN0qF666s/v-deo.html
8LIFGR8 4x4 Thank u can u put a 350 vortex in the Land Rover 2
instaBlaster...
Thanks a million for this video!🦋
The best part about the Disco 2's shortcomings is that you can get them for dirt cheap. I grabbed a clean '99 with a blown headgasket for $700 bucks. $300 in parts and a few late nights in the garage later and I have a $1000 Discovery that is a blast to drive!
No rust?
Your advice about adding ZDDP rich oil to reduce camshaft wear is spot on. Here in the UK the Rover V8 was used in lots of cars and zinc additives really help.
This is the best Landrover Discovery 2 owners guide/ summary I have ever seen, bar none! Great work! I am a 2001 D2 V8 (4.0) owner in Australia (owned for 3 years) - most of the things you discussed have happened to me. Head gasket! Yes I paid for a new install, after blowing one, and immediately after i did an in-line thermostat conversion to an 83 degrees C (181deg F) t/stat and haven’t looked back. Australia doesn’t have a cold weather problem it’s heat we have to worry about here. Penrith HPR30 is the oil of choice here, Oil leaks are everywhere- keep it topped up. Three amigos are a part of life, but don’t cause any issues. Ashcroft CDL linkage, Rock sliders, heavy duty prop shaft are all future purchases at $1000 each. Parts are expensive but the car is worth it!! Keep up the great videos!
Jeff Addinsall hit up eBay. I got a new brake modulator block for $100. Got rid of the three amigos and the traction control is now awesome. Also you can get a pair of wheel hubs on amazon if the wheel speed sensor is the problem.
Jeff, can you eliminate the thermostat all together? I moved back to Hawaii and when I lived here back in the 90’s it was common to take it out all together in your cars. Having said that it was a 71 Cuda , so a very simple carb, no computer, push rod motor. Thoughts?
I’m looking at a Disco 2 for sale and would eliminate the cats for sure! More power, better mileage and a lot less heat!
Cheers
@@michaelm2502 no, a thermostat is a bonus, not a negative. Like the man said, just get a cooler one.
GOOD ONYA DIGGER!
@@michaelm2502 Hi Michael I did the same thing years ago in an old Holden (GM) sedan I had, but the D2 BMW thermostat setup just runs too hot for Australian conditions. My 83 celcius setup is now spot on. Good thinking on the cats - under bonnet heat is a real issue, and we
Don’t have emissions testing here.
Wonderful breakdown for somebody that has no clue about Land Rovers. Helped me a lot, thank you!
I have a hand me down 2003 Disco 2 that belonged to my sister. In the last 5 years I’ve been through every single thing just listed in this video. Except for the transmission disintegration episode. I managed to change my driveshaft U-joints just in time.
Thank you for this informative video. I’ll make sure to save it in my Discovery 2 file folder. Cheers!
I have a 2004 Land Rover Discovery with about 164k miles and live in the southeast of the USA. I use Mobil1 15w-50 ( has 1,800 ppm of zinc ) with Mobil1 oil filter and Dura Lube engine treatment. I have already replaced the head gaskets ( with non torque to yield bolts - used in the 1993 Range Rover 3.9 liter), intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug coils ( with wires and Denso spark plugs ), water pump, 180°f thermostat, coolant, coolant hoses ( even changed the plastic lines to rubber hoses ), camshaft, lifers, rocker arm assemblies, timing gears, timing chain, oil pump, front main seal, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, drive belt, idler pulleys, auto tensioner ( with metal pulley ), all four ball joints, front driveshaft, both CV axles, all four wheel bearing assemblies, rear driveshaft rubber part, windshield post covers, plactic trim for the rear doors, sunroof ecu, driver's door lock bar ( updated part ), AC compressor, fuel sending unit assembly, both leather boots ( for parking brake and transfer shifter), gas cap, battery ( redtop ), brakes ( all pads and rotors ), tires ( Nitto NT 421Q ). I resealed both differentials, transfer case assembly, and throttle coolant plate. I repaired the sunroof drain lines. Flushed the engine with automatic transmission fluid ( before replacing the camshaft and lifers ), coolant system ( with distilled water and dex cool ), brake fluid system ( DOT 4 ), and power steering fluid system. Cleaned the fuel injectors, throttle body, and intake system. I have also put dielectric grease on all the wire connectors and grounds.
That's a remarkable, expensive potentially and time-consuming list, I've driven nothing but old school Mitsubishi monteros for years and found a 2001 disco 2 for 3 Grand which has been owned and maintained by an enthusiast, but I could pick up good old school full size montero for $1,500 or much less for years, never having to spend a dime on them week after month after year , they're Mighty cool, but your intensive maintenance issues / needs indicates to me that I might just steer clear, this video was helpful but your comment told me a lot more than I ever could have absorbed skimming through things, how long did your process of upgrading and maintaining take? Got to be into the high four $ figures and probably a hundred plus hours? Neat trucks but...
@@GreenCanvasInteriorscape Doing all the work saves money haha. I recently switched to Shell Rotella T5. It's a good daily and project. I think it's a Land Rover thing you love them or you don't buy another/keep them for long. The biggest thing is if you keep on the maintenance and the little tricks, they can be pretty reliable. I have never been stuck on or off the road.
Can I buy it from you?🙂
Thank you. I have a 2003 with 200,000 klms. I put in Castro classic oil with zinc and the correct coolant, but when I checked the clutch fan and the condenser fan they were not good. After doing a hour long run the clutch fan turn easily and the condenser fan was seized. The engine works great on a nice cool day in Alberta, but when there are things that are not working the way they should they show up on a very hot day in a traffic jam. That is when everything in the disco needs to be right, thermostat, fans and coolant
I own an 04HSE..one of the best videos I have seen on the Discos! You have nailed most issues. Here in AZ..plastic fails. I have split 2 over flow bottles (now Aluminum) and the “T” on top, replaced with all aluminum fittings. I believe the cooling system is the weak link on these cars. I relocated the thermostat to on top of the motor and have a hi-performance water pump! Use Mobil 1 Synthetic hi-mileage 5w/30 with only Maher filter & full bottle of Lucas breakin additive. 165,00 & going strong!!
Mine now has a fluke transmission issue, I can shift it manually, but not automatically and at half torque or it dumps to neutral.
I’m thinking of trying to rebuild it myself as getting used ones to my location is cost prohibitive.
The engine runs great still though!
Just bought a 01 disco. This video was part of the reason I bought it. Thanks
I hope you have good luck with it! They can be fickle.
As a 7 year owner of a daily use, and off-road 2003 in Alaska, this is excellent info. Th.ank you for posting.
I'm having issue w 99it Will go in reverse fine but can't get drive to engage
1999 Model. AKA the green machine....ABS icon on for over 2yrs. Ripped headliner out 10yrs ago. Replace 3 window motors in 5 yrs. electrical gremlins here an there....219K miles. It marks its territory wherever it parks. It changes its own oil- just replace the filter. ❤️
I'd like to add, that in addition to rotella t6 5w-40, I use a MANN 950-4 filter. It's a Ford f150 spec filter, it's approx. double size for capacity, and has a hex on the end for easy removal. Also very heavy duty.
Was that for the V8?
Just purchased an '01 Disco II. REALLY GLAD that I found this video. Looks like I will be crawling under mine tomorrow to check on all of the potential issues that were covered here. THANK YOU!!!
With my 2002 Discovery I remember that I did not have any issues with the a/c or the automatic transmission.
Besides those two, everything else had problems. I am not kidding!
I'M BUYING A D2 2003 HERE IN BRAZIL, THANKS FOR THE CLASS, I'LL OBSERVE EVERYTHING YOU SAID, A BIG HUG AND STAY WITH GOD.
Excellent video. I’m actually UK based and gave the TD5 version but still found this very helpful and interesting. Many thanks.
Guy.
I would love to have a TD5! Especially in manual! You folks probably have to deal with frame rot more than we do!
@@ForgottenWaypoints yes we have to constantly keep an eye on it and treat it. I’ve just bought a lanolin kit to do mine before winter as not only do I live near the sea but the salt the roads to death here as soon as their is a suspicion of ice or snow. Personally I wish they left the snow unsalted but I guess none 4x4 owners would just get stuck or crash!
I hear you. Salted snow roads here too. I actually bought some Waxoyl spray for my D2, but ironically I've used it all on my Toyotas. Land Rover may take a lot of crap, but in my experience their frame coating is 100x better than Toyota's!
Hi FW. Just a quick update. Ive installed an OBDll ultra gauge ,fitted the TD5 stat, changed The viscous fan , flushed the rad, replaced expansion bottle cap ,and refreshed the coolant .Discovery now driving 188 degrees to 198 Brilliant. It hasn’t gone over 198. Thats even driving it off road for a couple of hours. All that from an average running temperature of 210 to 223 in traffic. I’m happy out. Cheers for your advise and taking the time to explain, in layman’s terms what it’s all about. Peter.
Thank you for taking the time to do this. I am purchasing a disco soon and wanted some more info before I go into the deep end with a blindfold on.
I’ve had discos for 15 years and as a result, I’ve researched maintenance extensively for 15 years. This video is maybe the best I’ve seen... I’ve seen A Lot! Wading through forums is informative and can be quite fun when you have the time to do it but this video, at a high level, covers Tammy most of what we “Need” to know. Great job!
Also, I’m in Houston if anyone is in the area.
Thanks! I love the Land Rover community and hope this helps and it was my pleasure to give back for all the help others have given me.
Doing research as looking to buy one this year and came across this - fantastic work! So much important info in one spot! Am now not scared, and will jump in. Cheers.
I need to watch my own vid, the poor D2 has been neglected while I work on the cruiser and now needs some work done. These discos don't like to sit!
I'm considering buying a Land Rover and I gotta say this video is awesome! Good work.
Good luck in your quest! You thinking a D1/D2/Classic or a modern rover with air suspension?
@@ForgottenWaypoints D2, D3 and L322 are all on the list! Modern air suspension is definitely appealing for the diversity of performance it could give. Sounds like with a compressor rebuild the reliability is quite good too. I'm leaning towards the D3 the most right now, but I haven't test driven anything yet. On the other hand the D2 has an aura about it that is really unique.
@@bradcomis1066 , D3 has the best modding support, but if you are ok staying stock there is something magical about the BMW designed L322...they are incredible machines.
I like the '04 where you get the jag motor but still have the mechanical t-case and more travel in the crosslinked air suspension.
I test drove an '11, and it holds up well tech-wise with modern cars. I loved me L322....just couldn't get past the 19" and 20" rims!
I use my Rover everyday all the time... Creeks, Mud, off road in places I can’t believe I got out of but I love it... probably never buy anything else
I owned a 2001 Disco 2. For meany years. I added a CDL from a 04 D2, Installed a 2.5 inch old man emu lift and added the Disco 1 rear spring perches.
I now own the Toyota FJ Cruiser, But wanted to stop by and see my old rig.
Excellent video!
Nothing wrong with an FJ either!!
If you have a disco 2 you typically love it and hate it at the same time haha. I have a 2003 with 91k miles and a fantastic interior and exterior. Daily driver. But in 18 months of ownership it has had: new water pump, new radiator, new thermostat, crank position sensor, an oil leak, a differential leak, and a handful of electrical issues haha. However, it has never left me stranded and I take it overlanding in Colorado a couple times a year. Beast offroad, looks great, but if you get one make sure you set aside a few hundred bucks a month into a repairs savings account, because your time will come haha.
Looking at an 01 with 244k miles tmrw and this really helped me know what to look for. Thank you!
Thank you for sharing this excellent buyers guide. I've hesitated from buying a 2004 disco II because of all the scary horror stories on-line. I'll definitely buy one now, and will use the information you provided to guide me.
Go ahead and buy an ultra gauge now. When you go to test drive a prospective D2 just plug it in and it’ll give you a lot of information on the test drive. Temp and codes are the two things to look for.
Good review. Slipped liner is actually less of a problem than straight head gasket failure and cracks between the bores. Even with the lower temp 3 way thermostat in the bottom hose is that when full coolant flow is required the 3 way still diverts coolant to the heater matrix under the dash. Removing it and using a top hose Mezerre or similar 82 degree C inline thermostat. Amazing difference. Still gets hot enough to heat condensation out of the oil, get to closed loop and have completely normal fuel economy. The 3 amigos are often just wheel sensor however when they don't go it is usually a crack in a circuit board in the modulator. You don't have to replace the modulator. Google WABCO ABS modulator Option B. The genuine German made rear rubber coupling is excellent. The front drive shaft...just get a Woody greasabe heavy-duty 1310 unis shaft. Excellent gear. Greasabe centre ball also. My D2 is just under 20 years old . Had since new. Used it a lot on beaches and never had a hint of rust. Cheers
I'm not a big car guy but I've been wanting to learn more about the workings and I'm looking at a 2000 disco 2. This video is an incredible help. I love how knowledgeable you are with every detail and how in depth you go with every description. Despite not knowing much about vehicles, I now feel fairly confident that I can go up to that car and check everything that needs to be checked before I decide to buy it
Thanks! If you take the Disco plunge... you'll end up a big car guy. TLC is the nature of the beast with these rigs.
@@ForgottenWaypoints that's the idea! I'm trying to learn more about working on cars, I just haven't had a good chance. A fun car, and a great guide, sound like the perfect combo to get it started. I've also got a good buddy who has a Disco 1, so it'll be fun to go out on adventures
It's sad to see more younger guys not so much car guys. But working on your own hands , the greatest feeling in the world I know when you're doing it right from the start.😊
I use Rottela T4 15-40w for years no problems. I have 2 Discos 2000 and 2004. Good video.
Well done video. Now you've got me looking through Craigslist.
New sub here. Brilliant tutorial, I’m from Ireland and have a 2003 discovery 2 4.6L in Portugal. It’s a USA Jeep and has only 50K on it. Never been off rd. I plan to take it off road. Nothing too heavy . Beach, sandy and trail driving. Little or no rocks. I’m considering fitting the TD5 thermostat, and the ultra gauge. Save my head gasket. Cheers again for great video.
Great video, man! Owned my Disco II since 2018, and its been way more reliable than I had any right to expect. Anyway, you covered all the bases, I think. And 100% on the T-stat. When I installed a REAL temp gage, I was shocked at how high the "normal" operating temp was. I was seeing 230 on the highway, and it would usually spike to 250F when I exit the highway for a fuel stop! No wonder these things have a rep for eating head gaskets! The only thing you brought up that I wasn't tracking was the "guibo" flex joint. Might have to toss one on, JIC.
Mine is starting to crack but I haven’t bothered with the job yet. Spare is in the rig.
Awesome video! I have owned my 02 for almost 5 years, did everything you mentioned, the engine was rebuilt at around 100k with the top hat liners installed to prevent the cylinders to slip, and now it's still running like new at 151k
I'm jealous! I'd feel a lot better about life with top hat liners!! I'm using mine as a daily now, almost 142k on the clock and about time to replace the thermostat again (temps creeping to 194-199 at idle these days)
Absolutely awesome review - spot on! I have an '01 D2 that I bought as a pup in '03, and it now has just over 209k miles on it and still going strong - there's nothing else I'd rather drive (I have an '07 LR3 with 62k miles that primarily sits in the garage, the D2 is the workhorse). My strategy has been simple - to utilize the forums and RAVE to the fullest extent for education and guidance, to stay on top of/ahead of maintenance, and when I need to repair it, buy the very best parts I can find - fix it right, and then feel free to count on that issue not recurring until that part runs its natural life. I'd definitely attest to what you said about thermostat/head gaskets; I've had to replace head gaskets twice, but have had no issues at all since replacing the thermostat with a TD 180degree about 90k miles ago (also using green antifreeze). The Rotella oil you mentioned is a key tip too; switched to it about 100k miles ago, and my engine has no tics. My D2 is still stock height, fitted Bilstein shocks on it a few years ago, and it rides and handles great; passengers comment on how well it corners for a heavy vehicle. I've replaced the radiator, water pump (recommend brass rotor version), all belts and hoses, plugs and wires, O2 sensors and MAF sensor, but other than that and the head gaskets pre-180 thermostat, engine is a reliable workhorse with 4k mile oil and filter changes. Definitely agree that front drive shaft and thermostat are the key first things to do if someone buys one of these (my replacement front drive shaft is serviceable); I also think I benefitted greatly from my recent alternator replacement; bought the 150amp Bosch made for the Range Rover P38 (bolts up exactly the same as original). I had issues with the lazy braking you mentioned in another video until I installed EDC rotors and Akebono ceramic pads; no issues after that.
OF KEY IMPORTANCE in looking at these vehicles, in my mind, is realizing that most of the work required through the years are things that would be required for any other vehicle if they're kept long enough and routinely used - with the only likely exceptions being the front drive shaft, power door locks/actuators (I've now replaced all 5 of mine, the auto locking/unlocking takes a toll on them through the years - easy process following the RAVE instructions), window regulators/motors (have now replaced all four - again, easy process following the RAVE instructions - and for this and door lock replacement, just be sure to stock up on panel clips in advance), and the throttle body heater plate/gasket is a pesky but easy to replace issue every few years. Agree also with your Lucky8/Ashcroft center diff shifter recommendation; I installed it and have used it without issue (their installation video doesn't hurt the eyes either), and it adds great capability. I replaced the rear flex coupler you mentioned just as a preemptive move; I drive this thing a lot late at night on 2-3 hour trips coming back from playing music with a fairly busy band, so I did that just for peace of mind. Which brings up another point you mentioned in another video - these things have wonderful cargo capacity! Rarely a week goes by that someone helping our band unload or load equipment doesn't express surprise at how much it will hold . . . the square shape and lack of angled glass allows for almost van-like capacity.
I've owned Land Rover vehicles since the Range Rover first came to the U.S. in '87, and although this was my first Discovery, it has by far been my favorite of all of them. There's nothing quite like them, and I think they may someday be a bit of a cult vehicle and surge in value like the Defenders have. Thanks for your coverage of these great vehicles!
Well said.
Let us be thankful people don't know about D2s just yet. They are good and cheap!!
Absolutely ! But of course I'm completely biased 😍
@@agilchrist73 Oh, people know about them all right - that’s why they are so cheap. Bought my 2000 D2 in near mint shape for $1,500 three years ago after the driveshaft punctured the transmission. The owner had spent $8,000 trying to keep the thing running for his daughter and was beyond fed up with the expenses. They will never be a cult vehicle because they won’t last long enough.
Dude! New owner of a 99 disco 2 lr7, you have made my day! Keep up the great vidz, and thank you so very much! Beyond stoked for this rig!
Happy wheeling!!
Awesome video!! Some people dont know how useful forums can be!!
Just got into the market for a disco II, ive considered 80 series land cruisers and 4 runners but I love the character these things have. About to say goodbye to a Miata for this. Going to be my first offroad rig :-D
Goodbye to Mazda reliability, though I've had issues with my mpvs, but still love them
Looking at an 01 right now. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Well I have a TD5 D2 so I nearly didn’t watch this as I know across the pond y’all have the V8s right? But this video was soooooooo useful! Thanks a whole bunch of bunches for putting it up, great stuff - really!
Thanks
Guy
What I wouldn't give for a TD5! Enjoy your diesel, and thanks for the comments.
I have a 2004 Very informative and thorough and well-presented Thank you!
I’m going to look at an 01 tomorrow. Thank you for pointing out a few thing I didn’t know about.
Ended up getting a 2002 P38
I had the three amigos on for almost 2 years until I read an article on the forum. I replaced the shuttle valve and did the reccomend work around. When I had 3 amigos I didn't have ABS which was scary.
2004 Discovery II, I bought it in 2008 with 35k miles now 168k. Been through alot with mine, thank god I can do my own repairs.
I have the master cylinder oring issue in winter, replaced crank sensor twice, replaced cats, O2 sensors, radiator, water pump, headliner, LED headlights, front shaft, and much more. Steering is next. Yes, leaking is definitely an issue on L.R's.
I parked mine in my garage for 18 months, recently fell back in love with it.
How did you do the LED headlight swap?
Very interesting, and very informative video! Thanks! Myself and the wife have two of these, a 2000, and a 2002, both 4.0 gas guzzlers, and have some of the quirks you touched on, and some things I never knew or thought about. Thanks Again!!
Thanks very informative. A parts man in a very successful rover shop told me that the electric AC fan is also for when the engine overheats. Mine will not move, it’s rusty. I took it apart, it’s not fixable.
Maybe I should test mine, it’s been awhile.
If you're in an area or State with no emissions tests, besides the improved driveshafts do a catalytic delete
No more heat issue and several more horsepower
Rob Crissinger just get an o2 simulator to avoid the CEL. Some emissions test are just an obd2 scan.
Have you done this? Just got a d2 and need to do something about my exhaust as it’s bent badly. Was thinking of doing the delete but worried about bad back pressure.
@@ChelseyWood Yes I did a secondary air delrte and cat delete.
The cat delete lowers backpressure
Sounds cool too
With a proper running engine there's no impact on horsepower or heat. The heat comes from the manifolds. This isn't a 70s muscle car, the D2 makes so little power and cats are so free flowing you would notice the same difference by just using a lighter oil.
This is THE best, most comprehensive video out there on the D2. I really love mine and am very thankful for "discover"ing your video. Thanks for taking the time to do this...
Thanks, now if only my Toyota's would stop taking so much time in the garage, I can get the Disco trail worthy again (I've got a bit of delayed maintenance items to take care of)
"THE best", despite the fact that it fixates solely on the V8 model and completely ignores the TD5 which is overwhelmingly more popular everywhere outside the USA?
Great video. I’m looking for an inexpensive 4x4 for a second car to drive around town & do light off roading, & had always heard the horror stories about the old Discoveries. As an owner of a Ford 6.0 diesel, these issues seem like child’s play. lol
They are definitely finicky and time consuming, lots of little issues that can come up; however, other than a slipped liner, nothing is particularly expensive or out of the skillset of a DIYer.
I have owned many discos and highly recommend them on and off road. Because it's a luxury car its heavy, comfy and thirsty! British Atlantic has good 3 amigos vids. They sell good parts. The big issue in the NE is salt and the rear chassis. Not much you can do about frame rot.
I'll have to check out the amigo vids
" The automatic oiling system" made my day . Thank you
Yeah, she's been neglected while I've been working on my Toyotas (go figure). I think I need to pull the rear axle and seal it up, the diff can't keep oil and my transfer case is really bad right now.
I wish we had 48 hours in a day!
Hands down best review out there!! Awesome job thank so much!!
I have a disco 1 2000 td5 and wow great fun to own and drive lucky I was a RR mechanic and I have fun maintaining my disco and have met some realy good friends because of it
I'm probably going to end up watching this several times.
T H A N K Y O U so very much for this info. I got my 2000 LR Disco around this time last year. It had 94K. It just hit 100K a few weeks ago. I did NOT perform all the necessary maintenance that I probably should have bc the person I got it from was a mechanic who said he'd fixed it for someone and then never heard from the guy again.
I have the 3 amigos right now and it's been on for like 6 months. When I 1st got a reading i had a few pcodes that pointed to some misfiring cylinders. I got all of those replaced. Even tho the person that did it crossed some of my wires the 1st time he did it.
A rear brake job and an oil change are the only other things I've had done. The guy told me he put a new belt on and head gaskets. Idk about the gaskets but as far as the belt I've had crickets for about a month. It could be a pulley or the belt tensioner big I'm thinking he just didnt do everything he said he did.
I would love to just take my truck somewhere that I could trust and get her running like new. It runs really great now but if I could get some solid maintenance work done she'd be just like new.
I'm a single mom that's not afraid to.m.mmbget her hands dirty. I've gotten under the hood myself from time to time. I just dont have the time now. If anyone knows of a place in Wisconsin or Chicago please share! Thanks!!
You have a very informative video that will guide me in buying a discovery II in the near future. I have a 2012 LR4 with 99000 miles on it. It has different engine issue but as long as you keep it maintained, it should not give you problem. I do the maintenance and suspension repair myself. It is fairly easy to maintain if you are a DIYer. I just love my Land Rover. I seldom use it for off-roading but I will be doing over landing this coming summer. Thank you very much for the much needed information.
Thanks for making this video, I'm thinking of buying a Land Rover Discovery 2 and this video was a great help.
Still commuting in mine. Going to add some diff and t-case oil. Don't let the breathers get plugged! It will leak!
Just bought a 2003 disco with 232k miles, thanks for this vid
The rear drive shaft Rotoflex coupling when new is really stiff, any cracking or softening will often cause rear axle vibration. It's a cheap replacement part - use a genuine one and it will transform the drive. I also suggest Polyurethane suspension bushes as original rubber ones will distort and make tracking difficult to set. Poly bushes will need a hydraulic press to do the major radius arms, but use for all ideally. This will make the car chassis feel like new and they are self lubricating!!!Kits are available with various firmness, make sure they come with stainless steel bolt sleeves.
Thanks so much for this video. Huge help. I just bought a 2003 with only 64k miles on it. It was part of a drug seizure and sat for 10 years. The exterior is beaten from the AZ sun, but as far as I can see, there are no leaks yet and it runs great. I'll be checking that oil pump and feeling around for the center diff lock (although it's probably not there).
Lol, @Maw 3615054
10:55 The TD5s were the same. When the gauge read hot it was too late.
Awesome vid. I have a 99 Discovery II, With 280,0000 miles. I have ALWAYS used Shell Rotella T. 15w-40. No problems . You did forget to mention not to talk bad about your Rover within hearing distance...It will break down on purpose to just piss you off.
Hahaha! Mines leaking in the driveway now. Most likely because I replaced my dino oil with synthetic, but I think it's because I've been wheeling the LX.
If the stupid Toyota wouldn't require so much maintenance, I could give the Rover some needed TLC and get her back on the trail (she needs the leaks fixed, has a small exhaust leak now, and due for plugs )
Great video, everything he said is 100% accurate based on my experience with my 2004 Disco II. Once you dig in and get to know the truck it's not so bad to work on. My first repair experience that was frustrating was changing plugs, I pulled wires of and cracked just about every plastic tube under the hood. Talk about frustrating, anti freeze and vaccum leaks everywhere. Holy crap, the worst repair had to have been the ignition coils, no room to unscrew the bolts that hold the coils in place under the cowl. I probably should have removed the intake manifold and replaced the top half gaskets. I'm sure it's only a matter of time until I have to do it again.
well he did a good job but he is not 100 percent accurate. if you have a 03 in the oil pump failure VIN range you can not simply replace the oil pump. as you know the pump is actually a part of the front cover.. and during the machining process there was a dowel hole feature that was machined out of tolerance and not caught. I cant remember if the hole misposition was on the front cover or if it was the dowel pins that locate the front cover to the block. anyway the land rover fix for this during warranty was installation of a new longblock. so if you have an 03 in the failue vin range you are gonna have to replace the front cover (if that is where the faulty hole spread is located. or you are looking for a new block! Either way you will not simply be replacing the oil pump and moving on.
I have an 04 SE7 with 85k and It is starting to do weird stuff. i bought it cheap knowing it had just overheated bad. so I jumped right into a head gasket replacement. I didnt want to do the inline thermo mod so i got a new land rover 180 deg and also a put in a new water pump , hoses, radiator and a heavy duty clutch fan. but im still floating around 200 and over sometimes according to accuguage. i dont know what im going to do next. I want to just put a new long block in and not have to worry about it for many years, hate to say it but im always thinking about boiling coolant on a long trip!
I have the center differential and it is really really tight. im scared to engage it again. what do you have to get at to lubricate the shifter and linkage
@@matthewlewellen6516 I have a 2002 with a 4.0 and I got the inline thermostat mod and I'm running down in the 180 range constantly it's amazing! Also I got the coil pack relocation kit when I needed to change it do to a misfire and wow it is so much better up front
They make a relocation kit I just did it this weekend! Yeah you're right it's a nightmare I broke all kinds of connectors and vacuum lines along the way but now my coil pack sits up front between the alternator and the tire jack under the hood. There's a perfect spot for it and the custom wires run perfectly. You just get these harness extensions and then mouth is little bracket on your alternator and you have your coil pack right there in front of your face from here on out
This is probably the best and only information I can find that explains everything bit by bit in detail on the discovery 2 but the difference is my is the diesel td5 manual
Thanks!!! I'll trade you my petrol auto for your TD5 manual and I'll work on a part 2. ;)
@@ForgottenWaypoints sorry I'm keeping her as I just got her last year and needs a lot of work, it got around 230km (205.052 miles) on the clock and I'm from Australia but I'm lntending on bring her to the states later to tourer (overland) with a friend that lives in colorado
I'm picking up a 2001 disco 2 SE7 tomorrow I can't wait!!
Just finished the same job today ( without hoist) . lying on my back for 4 days. forgot to put top tank strap back on so had to remove all tank etc again. Great How to video. thanks
I have the TD5 thermostat. It works well with the TD5 engine. Last summer, out side temp was 45C ( 113F ) The coolant temp, from the Nanocom was 95C (203F) Stationary at the traffic lights. When the car moves, the temps drop. This is with the A/C going full blast! My three amigos was fixed by replacing the hub, which comes with an ABS sensor.
Can u please provide a link to order td5 thermostat
just checked my front driveshaft and it was so dry. metal on metal - was probably going to fail anyime soon. thanks to the video .
you saved my disco's life.
Glad to hear!
Picking up a 2004 SE that has 64k miles on it. This video is F*$@ing amazing. Thank you!
How did your purchase go also what do you think now that you own it
Great review. Enjoyed it. I have done just about everything you talked about over the last 10 years with my 2003 D2
Vent the hood, and always put in a oversized radiator as well. Worked great on my 6.0l powerstroke excursion.
I'm coming at this all wrong, have already bought my D2 TD5 from a friend (cheap).
But this is an interesting video with useful pointers at the most common issues.
Thanks!
I would say snagging a TD5 is the proper way! Manual transmission?
@@ForgottenWaypoints Yes, manual, but it's an 03! Previous owner put an automatic diff lock in the transfer case though.
@@JimBiddle., interesting. So it's activated by a button?
@@ForgottenWaypoints He says it's automatic, when it slips, it engages? I'm not convinced, but he has spent some serious wedge on this thing. OME lift kit, AMC cylinder head, every type of under body protection you can squeeze under it, list goes on and on. HOWEVER, the guy that was looking after it, has fitted a 10p ECU to this 15P engine, doesn't inspire confidence! Think I need to find a wet field, and see what it does.
Just an fyi, I have a diesel 6.0l powerstroke Ford excursion and I put in a Mishimoto thermostat and radiator. The thermostat is always open, which can suck in the winter, but I can almost always plug it in or let it warm up.
I have an 03 I bought new... what a great car.
Hi there, hope everything is well. I I got my rover a few months ago and I just ran into my first three amigos issue, but my brake light is on and my check engine light is on as well. It also has a sinking cylinder sleeve, but I bought an LS motor not too long after the purchase. Hoping to see you do more videos on the rover. I hope everything is well.😊
I have my first persistent amigos, so I'll be doing that soon. Work is killing all my project time lately.
I'd love to see your LS swap!
Thanks for the info, im a new owner of an 03 with 101k and ive been trying to learn all about rovers(im a jeep guy) Definitely some good topics here.
the biggest thing on my list is the death vin oil pump, my low psi light comes on at low idle. I got lucky and someone swapped in the 2004 center lock guts and shifter so thats a nice bonus
Just watched the video on the v8 landy pretty good I just love 💖 Landrovers cheers
Thanks. Just got my 2002 discovery (yeah I know. No diff lock. It was too good of a deal to pass on). Going to start with most of this stuff. Thanks for the info
Coax cable tape could seal that crank sensor. Ham Radio operators use it to keep water out. Almost a dry tar tape.
Excellent well informing video! My 2000 TD5 D2 has never had the Three Amigo's (everything else has gone but not that) and I put that down to not dunking it in cold muddy water every weekend. Besides, mud is bad for the chassis. Too much sun on the headlining! Wow, over here in the UK it's leaking sunroofs that lead to dangling headliners!
My headliner is gone, not from water but from the desert heat! The glue is finally giving out, but I guess 21 years of glue next to black paint isn't too shabby really.
@@ForgottenWaypoints Nope, it's done pretty well. I'm still not sure wether to reinstate the diff lock. With a diff lock and tall tyres there's more chance of breaking a halfshaft, I think. Not sure.
@@sleepycatpictures1176 , Mud and high RPM is probably not best on the axles, I'm more familiar with rock, so it's opposite for me.
If we don't have the CDL, you rely more on traction control which spins the tires more to activate, with CDL engaged, traction control isn't activated is often, wheelspin is minimized, and I would assume a lower chance of a shaft snapping.
Honestly though, I don't think half-shafts are the weak link until you do lockers (front or rear). Your worm gear in the diff will probably break first, at least that's what I've been told. I haven't broken either (knock on teak!)
@@ForgottenWaypoints Mm, good point. Spinning wheels to activate traction control is half the battle lost. I was thinking more of a cross-axle situation where too much welly causes most of the power to go to one wheel. Anyway, you have done more rock crawling than I ever will so if it's not broken yet - carry on!
@@sleepycatpictures1176 , Yup, your situation is also at risk. With the CDL though you force the front and rear to spin at the same speed. Without CDL, you can get ALL of the wheelspin to one wheel. I had that situation once (not on a Rover, but a Jeep Grand Cherokee). It was not fun.
Still didn't break anything though. "Bouncing" (the result of flooring it to get up a loose or low traction climb) seems to be the favorite method for breaking parts that I've seen, probably because it's a combination of all axle-stressing scenarios wrapped up into one battering moment after another!
One point to add about oil filters is there is a oversized version, I run the K&N 3001, holds about 1/4 extra quart. I also have a 4.6l which did not have the oil cooler that the 4.0l had. So I installed a 4.0l oil cooler and picked up about an extra quart of oil capacity and the cooler oil Temps. I also installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge linked into the timing cover/oil pump housing.
Massively entertaining and outstanding tips. I'm scratching my head over why I can't get my 2002 Disco II to shift into "Lo." Was getting stiffer and stiffer and now... It can't seem to find the slot. Wonder if other's have had that issue. I'm at 130k and everything else running great!
I know my D1 linkage the shifter was stuck because it was a physical linkage. I had to pull it and use break cleaner and grease to un-seize it.
The D2 shifter is a linkage, so I don't suspect the cable would seize like physical linkage would. What is probably happening is the lock-out solenoid has failed (which is why I used a Dremel and cut mine off when doing the CDL modification. I'd ask on some D2 forums what they think it could be? There are some really good youtube videos (ashcroft's CDL install comes to mind) on taking the center console apart to access the linkage and solenoid. It's a bit time consuming, going carefully not to break plastic parts, but not hard. Might be something to look into.
@@ForgottenWaypoints Solving the world's problems one Rover at a time. Thank you for this. The solenoid has been mentioned as a potential culprit and after your comment here, I think I'm going to go forward with that maintenance approach. I see so many of these D2s on the roads here in the mountainous regions surrounding Los Angeles but I still haven't found where everyone is taking them for service. I can do general maintenance but my garage isn't equipped for the more serious repairs. I'll reply back with how this gets solved. REALLY appreciate the section on oil in this video. I was mostly doing it right, but never occurred to me to put in a diesel filter or to flip the washer.
@@briangroh444 , I hear you on maintenance. It's been a few years since I filmed this video and I've neglected my d2 and it's starting to bite me. They really do better when you drive them.
Hopefully this year I can get my own back up to spec.
Excellent instruction and prevention maintenance for L/R owners. A++++++++++++++
Thanks to your great video. I bought my D2 yesterday. I’m so excited. Loved it since it came out but nvr had the $$$.
My recommendation as a mechanic and as a owner is to run penrite HPR 10 do not run diesel oil in a petrol or vise versa as it will cause more damage to the engine as it’s not meant for it and change it a around the tipical 6k km or 5-6 months and filter wise I swear by ryco
My fav is discovery one 300 tdi twin locked beautiful to drive simple and a weapon off road i use mine everyday I look for reasons to drive it it is however highly maintained and customised ...
I'm jealous of the TDI!
I watched the whole thing, took 2 visits. Over 10 reasons not to buy LRD2.
And I was seriously looking at these before I found an FJ that has no common issues.
Having a LR does give you more ideas for content on problems.
My only issue with the FJ is, it's a a magnet for pinstripes.
You'll get no complaints about the FJ from me. My wife's daily is a GX470, same platform, just better leather and not as cool of an exterior..
Temperature gauge characteristics exist in the discovery 1 300tdi also. No range, just a cold, normal, boiling indicator. After market digital gauge all the way.
Nice video, i am interested in either a disco I or a II, this video showed me not to be that afraid of a II series, i live in Mexico near the border with California and discos I and II are plentyfull and cheap, maybe all the retired dentist and lawyers from California dont want to hassle with repairs or they dont pass smog anymore so they sell them over here. I could take advantage of really cheap labor cost (compared to the US) in a specialized shop or even my own mechanic for the hard stuff. I plan on only using it for traveling and weekends so i wouldnt put the stress on it of a daily driver, in theory it should last longer. Now i am researching for a buyers guide on the Disco I to help me make my choice. Thanks for all the information.
Disco 1 might not have traction control, but you get full float axles!
@@ForgottenWaypoints Is the slip liners thing a random issue or it only happens if the engine is overheating? and the driveshaft overheating due to cats, if you live in a non smog compliant state, couldnt you just delete the cats and solve that issue for good?
@@ambienteterrazas , the slipped liner can happen at any time if your block isn't very good thanks to the expansion rate of metals between the aluminum block and steel liner. But it most likely happens following a head gasket failure.
Removing cats is a federal offense, even in non-compliant states. The sealed U-joint can still fail (so can the greased one), so even on a theoretically cat-less D2 you don't just want to ignore the driveshaft and want to check it routinely.
@@ForgottenWaypoints Thanks for taking the time to answer my post and again thanks for the really cool and informative video.
Well, of course a Land Rover leaking oil is a feature.
You have to worry when it's *not* leaking, it can only mean you're out of oil.
This was both very informative and very complete, thank you.
Thanks man for this review and guide, it is very helpful. I´m considering buying a RRC 3.9, and some of the things you point out are very useful. I already own a Disco 300TDI, with 260000 kms, and I´m very happy with it. I think old LRs are the best compromise between on-road and off-road capabilities, they have issues and faults, but if you get a rust-free frame and body, the rest is quite easy. Thanks for sharing!
It would be so much fun to snag a classic! Good luck!
I’ve replaced a CPS. Not a hard job just extremely frustrating. The coil pack replacement is also unnecessarily difficult. I would love to have 5 minutes alone in a room with no cameras with a few of the people who designed the D2. Id make them feel our pain. LOL
You are right about the LR community. I’ve been a part of many different enthusiast communities over the years and the LR community is among the best I’ve encountered.
🤣🤣🤣
Yeah you're correct the coil pack job is absolutely ridiculous but I just did my over the weekend and I bought a coil pack relocation kit and it was so awesome to put that manifold back with that coil pack out in the front of the engine from here on out. Now plug wire changes Take 5 Seconds. Also I did the inline thermostat and I run in the 180s
I did the shuttle valve , It took around 3/4 of an hour .You don't need to remove the abs unit , Just un bolt it and you can turn it up to get at it .I put a kit through the brake master cylinder !, ( IF IT IS SCORED REPLACE THE WHOLE THING .)Also loose battery cables can make the three amigos come on too !.
Thanks, I didn't think it was too bad. Once it's done, traction control still works, correct?
Yes It does .If you do the master cylinder kit ?.You can bleed the cylinder on its own . If you get air in the system ( OR IT HAS BEEN STUFFED FOR A LONG ) time bleed the brakes as this will get rid of the old fluid !, (AS BRAKE FLUID ABSORBS WATER ) And it is supposed to be changed at certain intervals , (IT WILL TELL YOU THAT IN YOUR BOOK ) .The quickest way is through the abs unit but you need a machine to do that ?.You can do it manually but you will use a lot of fluid ?, And you will need some one to operate the HDC , As well as keeping the master cylinder topped up , Do not put the expelled fluid back in !, AS you will create more probs !
ONE thing I forgot is Atlantic British have a you tube video on replacing the shuttle valve , And the master cylinder kit ,MAKE SHURE YOU PUT THE PISTON RUBBERS THE RIGHT WAY AROUND !!!!
Great video man. Thanks for the tips. I have my own TD5 2002 and love the vehicle, but hate when the three amigos shows up.
Mine show up at the weirdest times. And clear as soon as I turn the car off. Always on the pavement too. I've been lucky.
I installed a junk yard transfer case and a 04 cable shifter, the whole thing was under $500 about 10 years ago. That was on my 03.
Thanks for the the content! Just bought my 99 disco 2, and you were one of the channels I did my research on. I did the 180 tstat last week and I have the same temps you do 👍. I'm troubleshooting the 3 amigos. So far found one bad wheel speed sensor, replaced it. Just ordered the icarsoft scan tool to continue troubleshooting. I'm in MN so the cold winter coming had me wondering what oil to use... rotella? Maybe.
You'll want a 5w40 with zddp/anti-wear for all around temps of Minnesota. You can do 15w40 in the summer and a 5w30 in the winter and add zddp like muscle car owners, or use Rotella T6 5w40 year round.
Schaffers has the best cold flow synthetic oil.
you cant "just replace" the 2003 oil pump to fix the failure problem. a range of blocks were machined with the front engine cover dowell pin location feature out of tolerance and this causes the premature oil pump failure. This was a warranty issue for 2003's in the VIN range and I believe the fix was a new long block.
Interesting, I thought it was the pump. Pretty much all blocks should be swapped by now, right?
2k D2 owner and loving it.
that why we in Australia have the option for a td5 diesel
Thankyou very much fo this excellent video! I live in europe and so buying a V8 is not an option! (fuel costs) It's the wonderful td5 for me!
I have been apprehensive about these vehicles, but you have put that worry to bed!! Many thanks indeed!
I hope you have a good experience! They aren't perfect rigs, especially being so old now, but find a good one and you and the community can keep it running as a DIY. It gets pricey if you rely on a shop.
Just imagine if Land Rover decided to use the GM 350ci motor rather than the buick.... These things would be kings!
I'm interested in a disco 1 as a side project eventually and I think most of this applies to them as well.
D1 does not have traction control or hill descent control.