Wow! Sam thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in this great video! With your help I have just repaired my 2001 CBR600F4i which had lost spark. As an auto repair tech I am very familiar with electrical diagnosis & repair. I found I was able to create & clear DTCs for the sensors & fuel injectors, but there are no DTCs for these ignition coil drivers. After several hours of diagnosing with the service manual, wiring diagrams, and my DVOM, checking all wiring & sensors, I had concluded my ECU coil drivers were inoperative. I found and watched your video several times, then following your instructions, and with about $2 in parts I have just successfully repaired my ECU & my bike is running again like a top! Sam you are my hero!!! Thanks again for making this video!
My cbr keeps blowing fuses on the white fuse holder mounted to the side of the big fuse holder. It's a common wire that goes to the Injectors, ecu, ignition side. A forum dude said that a replacement ecu fixed the issue. I have my ecu stripped and ima trave the pin and replace components until it works.
Hey man listen I just want to thank you appreciate you bringing back the knowledge 4 the people to learn know and understand there's not very many people out there like you thank you
I've just replaced my stator & reg/rec on my 929 and I can tell the stator is getting too hot so I'm about to embark on a search to find what's drawing the current from the system. Your video fills me with hope. Anything is fixable ! You're a frikkin warrior mate.
Saved my bacon man. My bike has been down for a year with this issue. After finding you forum post and this video, my baby runs again. Thanks a million man. You’re my hero 😊😊😊😊😊.
Hello Sam, I have CBR 600 RR 05/06 and I don’t have sparks, I have checked everything and I think the problem is in ECU/CDI. I want to change resistors like you, but I don’t know the position of them. Do you maybe know is it the same position as on your ECU? (Because I want to cut the plastic) Thank you in advance!!
That could be pretty much anything since the ECU turns off the spark to turn the engine off, you'll need to do a bunch of testing to figure it out. Side stand switch (spark will cut when not in neutral), lean sensor (can be bypassed by jumping the red and green wire), Ignition switch/zener diode (check for 9V on the pink wire at ECU), HISS (Chipped key if equipped - it's a regional thing), handlebar stop switch (check for 12V at engine stop relay), engine stop relay (check function), Crank and cam pulse generators (need a peak voltage adapter - see the manual for details), and check all the ECU grounds. It likely isn't the ECU itself that is the problem.
Hi Sam, This is an invaluable video so firstly thanks for the details. I bought a 2002 CBR 600 F4i, it was a non running project bike and I got it sorted and all was good…until randomly one day the FI light started flashing, code 33 which is ECU. The bike still starts and runs fine but this is obviously an issue. Being a UK bike with HISS I can’t just use another ECU so in a tricky spot trying to find a solution. Can I ask, what issues do these failed resistors create? Given my bike is still running fine I don’t understand why it’s showing an ECU fault and then beyond that I don’t know if it’s an issue beginning to creep in with these resistors or something else altogether. Any pointers would be much appreciated before I take the grinder to the ECU!!!!
Hi sir I got Cbr954rr 2002 I baypass servo motor now no fuel prime no spark if I give direct power to hiss then every thing runs like crazy feul pump +fan but on its own power just fan runs non stop
I know this is old. But I have a 2001 929rr. And I'm getting a no start. No crank fault. I get a solid red FI light on the dash. The neutral light does not come on. Is this a faulty ECU? I can't for the life of me figure this thing out.
The cam/crank sensors aren't supplied voltage, they create voltage. One wire should be grounded, the other wire goes to the ECU. With the motor stationary there should be 0v, and the voltage will spike every time a tooth passes the sensor when the motor is rotating. To test them you unplug and probe the two wires going into the sensor, you need a peak voltage adapter to make sure they are in the correct range but if you have an analog meter you can at least check if they are completely dead. If they are working you'll see the needle move but the actual reading is meaningless so it doesn't necessarily mean it is working correctly
@@sifisognsibandze5476 👍I did resolve it! In my case it was the ignition pulse generator. It was an extremely hard time finding the problem. What have you tried doing so far? Are you sure it is a "no spark" issue?
@@sifisognsibandze5476 do you know how to read the codes? Have you tried spraying starter fluid (or a tiny bit of gas) directly in the air intake? Is your battery FULLY charged? Are you using the original key? Old or new gas? How did it stop running, While riding or just no start after sitting?
I'm sure this is too old to ask but I am working at doing this on 4 of my ecu's that bike is killing. I personally cut the top ledge with a dremel and using wires to solder to board so I have a lil more room to stuff new resistors in and seal back up with permatex. But my question, is it the 2 resistors that have " NPR1 0.1 OHM F" stamped on top? Looks like same location as urs but hard to tell where they are already removed off unhoused circuit board an hard to see in one tht is just cut open.
Both the ecu’s I took apart the lettering came off the top of the resistors so I don’t know what they said. If you can clean the board off they are numbered R743 and R744 on the connector side of the board. You can see 743 in this picture, 744 is to the right it’s a little harder to make out www.dropbox.com/s/h124p1odmfu8p3e/20200423_183057.jpg?dl=0
There is a pink wire that comes out of the ignition switch. It should have ~9v +/- 0.5v on it when the key switch is on. Check it at the switch and at the ecu plug. If it doesn't have 9v there is a zener diode in the ignition switch that needs to be replaced
Yes, that is how it should work. This issue with the ECU won't cause no fuel pump prime though. Look into the pink wire (or HISS if you're outside north America). There is a zener diode in the ignition switch that passes 9 volts down the pink wire to the ecu. If this wire doesn't have around 8.5-9.5 volts present the fuel pump won't prime.
Actually a faulty tip over switch could also cause this. It can by bypassed by jumpering the red/white and green wire. Leave the white/black disconnected
Hello, I have a 1100xx with a 25 eror code. I has trying everything regarding the wires and FI is still there when I rev it more than 3000tpm. For a three days I has run it happy without FI but after 3 days FI reapear. So it must be ECU. But I think that nobody has repair this code on a ECU. Do you now why , or mabie is someonne who did this.
Thank you for all the hard work. i have the same problem. a motor swap in a sand quad. are you willing to work on a ECU for other people. do you have price to fix my ECU. im will to pay for your time if its cheaper ECU than a used one on ebay.
buongiorno, devo chiederti una info, riguardo la mia cbr 929 anno 2000, praticamente il motore non risponde in modo regolare, manca di potenza, tutto fatto il controllo, mi rimane solo la centrale da provare, molto probabile risiede li il guasto. in ogni modo la centrale me la potete riparare voi ?
Hi Sam, I have a 2004 CBR and the F1 fuse keeps blowing. I am thinking the ECM has an issue since I've checked everywhere else pretty much. What were the symptoms with these ECMs before you started repair? Tempted to follow you fantastic video. Thanks!
This issue wouldn't cause a fuse to blow. Really unlikely any ecu fault would cause blown fuses actually. You'll need to get a wiring diagram to confirm what fuse F powers. On mine it is for the instrument cluster, looks like on some 1000's it is the fan.
@@vpsryder Thanks Sam - you may have just saved me a small fortune. I'll have another look around. Although I have disconnected the cluster and the same issue appears. Will disconnect the fan and have another go.
Hey Sam great video just wondering if you have any photos of the ecu so i can zoom in and read the actual number written next to the eprom chip coz a part of mine came off
Try these ones. If you still can't see it if you can point out what chip it is ill see if I can read it www.dropbox.com/s/tvmniiy1cn0iibt/20200423_182844.jpg?dl=0 www.dropbox.com/s/h124p1odmfu8p3e/20200423_183057.jpg?dl=0
1 ohm didn't work on mine, I tried that originally. The two I have in there right now add up to 0.235ohm and they haven't given me any issues yet. I was guessing that the factory ones were 0.25ohm (2 in series so 0.5ohm total) but that was just based on what seemed most common. I never actually tried as I didn't have anything that added up to 0.5ohm so all I can say for sure is that 0.235ohm works well on my system. Putting in a higher resistance is safe, if it is too high it won't wreck anything it just won't work. If you try 0.5ohm first let me know how it works!
@@thetylernelson As high as you can make fit! I don't know exactly what was in there originally because the markings came off, but the physical size suggests 5w. If you plugged in the circuit to constant power with .235 ohm total (what I have currently) over two resistors each one would be dissipating around 9 watts. Obviously this isn't the case as the circuit is only on momentarily as the plug fires but I don't know the duration so I can't calculate that. My guess is the 5 watt ones are probably big enough on paper but the problem is they are rated in a open air case, not under an inch of potting. Anything you can do to add wattage or increase heat dissipation would make them last longer. No problem! Hope that helps you!
Hi Sam, is there a way i can test if its those 2 baddies before i open the ECU? I am getting power on the ignition coil plugs, fuel pump prines, it cranks but won't start.
It could, but it's pretty unlikely. It would require the resistors to slightly fail (increase resistance slightly) but that's pretty abnormal. Usually they either work correctly or not at all. If it's weak across all 4 holes I would make sure there is full voltage at the coil plugs and the grounds from the ecu are all good first. There's several star grounds throughout the wiring harness where a bunch of ground wires meet, they are known for sometimes corroding
So you mounted externally from one side to the other side ? What about the 2 in the middle.. great video I’m just a little confused.. do you a post step by step .. thanks bud
hey Sam, Scott here. So I'm getting no spark and no prime. I've removed all the potting from my ecu and I'm a little lost... k on the middle grounding rod where you have the 5 resisters that have screws in them ..are all of those supposed to read the same when testing the outer 2sides of each fork in the middle?
Hi Scott. The problem outlined in this video doesn’t cause no prime, only no spark. No prime is usually the ‘pink wire’ (from the ignition switch to ecu, should have around 9 volts when key is on), or HISS if equipped, or the safety circuit (side stand, clutch switch, etc)
Regarding the 5 parts, the ones screwed into the large aluminum heat sink are IGBT’s not resistors. I don’t know if they can be read correctly without removing them from the board, depends a bit on circuits they are attached to I think.
@@vpsryder hey Sam thanks for getting back to me well I'm just trying to figure out when I bought this bike it wasn't running and I got it running after about a week because I found out about the pink wire now I have replaced my regulator rectifier stator and cam pulls generator. now as I stated I bought the bike running so I've been using a 9 volt battery to use to drop the voltage instead of a zener diode but now that I've replaced all these parts I'm not getting spark and I've tested out the resistors that you have been talking about in your video and they test fine I guess they're within spec from what you have explained so I don't know why I'm not getting any spark now when I use the 9 volt it only triggers the safe mode if I have my paper clip shorting out the plug and that works only if I apply the 9 volt but now when I apply the 9 volt the fuel pump won't come on and the fuel pump is good because if I jump for it it works I just can't figure out why it's not accepting this 9 volt drop anymore any thoughts cuz I've been working on this for forever in a day months almost a year ....
0.25 ohm total resistance, about 10w power rating. Something like this would work if you mount the resistor externally like I have in the video www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/vishay-dale/RS010R2500FE73/RSD-.25RCT-ND/1166587
@@vpsryder what if I wanted to cover up the hole, I saw in the description that I can use SMD's but I'm new to all of these electrical stuff and really don't know how ohm resitors
Hello friend, I have a problem, I am from Mexico, and it is a bit difficult for me to understand the video, do you think you can help me? my fault is in my third coil, my motorcycle is an f4i, without connecting the coil it gives me voltage and gives me ground pulses, but when I connect the coil or some test led the circuit is closed, you have any idea what it could be ? my coil does work and also my spark plug only fails when connecting a circuit to the harness of that coil Thank you very much!!
I can't think of any reason it would do that apart from having a short circuit somewhere on the ecu (ground) side of the coil wiring. I would try this: At the coil plug, turn the key on and test the black wire for power there should be battery voltage there. Turn the key off, do a resistance test from the other wire to ground. There should be no circuit. If there is a path to ground, unplug the ecu and try again. If there is still a path to ground then you have there a short in that wire somewhere in the harness. If the path to ground goes away there is a problem with the ecu. Alternatively you could re pin the ecu connector and switch the leads from coil two and three. If the problem moves the ecu is the issue, if it doesn't move its the harness
Wow! Sam thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in this great video! With your help I have just repaired my 2001 CBR600F4i which had lost spark. As an auto repair tech I am very familiar with electrical diagnosis & repair. I found I was able to create & clear DTCs for the sensors & fuel injectors, but there are no DTCs for these ignition coil drivers. After several hours of diagnosing with the service manual, wiring diagrams, and my DVOM, checking all wiring & sensors, I had concluded my ECU coil drivers were inoperative. I found and watched your video several times, then following your instructions, and with about $2 in parts I have just successfully repaired my ECU & my bike is running again like a top! Sam you are my hero!!! Thanks again for making this video!
My cbr keeps blowing fuses on the white fuse holder mounted to the side of the big fuse holder. It's a common wire that goes to the Injectors, ecu, ignition side. A forum dude said that a replacement ecu fixed the issue. I have my ecu stripped and ima trave the pin and replace components until it works.
I've got 3 zx7 j boxes trying to find the issue... Asides from me. Which doesn't leave much.
Hey man listen I just want to thank you appreciate you bringing back the knowledge 4 the people to learn know and understand there's not very many people out there like you thank you
I've just replaced my stator & reg/rec on my 929 and I can tell the stator is getting too hot so I'm about to embark on a search to find what's drawing the current from the system. Your video fills me with hope. Anything is fixable ! You're a frikkin warrior mate.
Brother i really need help my ECU have a cover like a rubber how i remove that rubber that sticked with my ECU
Actually Watch the video
Saved my bacon man. My bike has been down for a year with this issue. After finding you forum post and this video, my baby runs again. Thanks a million man. You’re my hero 😊😊😊😊😊.
Awesome man! Glad I could help!
Same I my bike still down
Hello Sam, I have CBR 600 RR 05/06 and I don’t have sparks, I have checked everything and I think the problem is in ECU/CDI. I want to change resistors like you, but I don’t know the position of them. Do you maybe know is it the same position as on your ECU? (Because I want to cut the plastic)
Thank you in advance!!
What solvent do you use to soften the sealant inside?
same question
iFixit adhesive remover
So what if you are not getting spark what are Mean issue
That could be pretty much anything since the ECU turns off the spark to turn the engine off, you'll need to do a bunch of testing to figure it out. Side stand switch (spark will cut when not in neutral), lean sensor (can be bypassed by jumping the red and green wire), Ignition switch/zener diode (check for 9V on the pink wire at ECU), HISS (Chipped key if equipped - it's a regional thing), handlebar stop switch (check for 12V at engine stop relay), engine stop relay (check function), Crank and cam pulse generators (need a peak voltage adapter - see the manual for details), and check all the ECU grounds. It likely isn't the ECU itself that is the problem.
Bro I have a same problem in my cbr 600 ecu ,bro u have a cam sanser voltage?
My ecu no voltage in cam sanser. What I do ,bro help me
Oye para reparar un cdi de unaf4 i 600 modelo 2002
Hi Sam,
This is an invaluable video so firstly thanks for the details.
I bought a 2002 CBR 600 F4i, it was a non running project bike and I got it sorted and all was good…until randomly one day the FI light started flashing, code 33 which is ECU.
The bike still starts and runs fine but this is obviously an issue.
Being a UK bike with HISS I can’t just use another ECU so in a tricky spot trying to find a solution.
Can I ask, what issues do these failed resistors create? Given my bike is still running fine I don’t understand why it’s showing an ECU fault and then beyond that I don’t know if it’s an issue beginning to creep in with these resistors or something else altogether.
Any pointers would be much appreciated before I take the grinder to the ECU!!!!
Hi sir I got Cbr954rr 2002 I baypass servo motor now no fuel prime no spark if I give direct power to hiss then every thing runs like crazy feul pump +fan but on its own power just fan runs non stop
My ecu was broken wasn't fireing up the gas pump but after your explanation I just decided to buy a new one 😅
I found that regular unleaded gasoline works really fast and doesn't ruin the board or erase chip markings..
Can you test the CDI without stripping it down
Where on the board would be damaged if the fuel pump was not priming?
I know this is old. But I have a 2001 929rr. And I'm getting a no start. No crank fault. I get a solid red FI light on the dash. The neutral light does not come on. Is this a faulty ECU? I can't for the life of me figure this thing out.
Hi Sam I was wondering if that would cause crank pos sensor and cam pos sensor to loose 5V signal ? thanks for the information on the resisters.
The cam/crank sensors aren't supplied voltage, they create voltage. One wire should be grounded, the other wire goes to the ECU. With the motor stationary there should be 0v, and the voltage will spike every time a tooth passes the sensor when the motor is rotating. To test them you unplug and probe the two wires going into the sensor, you need a peak voltage adapter to make sure they are in the correct range but if you have an analog meter you can at least check if they are completely dead. If they are working you'll see the needle move but the actual reading is meaningless so it doesn't necessarily mean it is working correctly
Tenho uma CBR 929 não há faísca nas bobinas será a ECU,fiz teste chega a energia nós chicotes das bobinas mais não pulsa as bobinas pra sentelha
Thanks bud! You're a mad scientist! ✌🏻😎🤙🏻 I'm having a pain in the a$s time trying to diagnose a no spark issue on my CBR F4i
hi pls assist im facing the same problem.Howdid you resolve it?
@@sifisognsibandze5476 👍I did resolve it! In my case it was the ignition pulse generator. It was an extremely hard time finding the problem. What have you tried doing so far? Are you sure it is a "no spark" issue?
@@joeygunzilla6878 yes my pump primes perfectly and i verified that all my sensors work
@@sifisognsibandze5476 do you know how to read the codes? Have you tried spraying starter fluid (or a tiny bit of gas) directly in the air intake? Is your battery FULLY charged? Are you using the original key? Old or new gas? How did it stop running, While riding or just no start after sitting?
I’d like to ask what purpose do the transistors in the down right corner serve
how did you remove the rubber
How do you get out the ecu out of the black box?
What microcontroller does it use?
Can you take a close up photo of the main CPU on the board?
I'm sure this is too old to ask but I am working at doing this on 4 of my ecu's that bike is killing. I personally cut the top ledge with a dremel and using wires to solder to board so I have a lil more room to stuff new resistors in and seal back up with permatex. But my question, is it the 2 resistors that have " NPR1 0.1 OHM F" stamped on top? Looks like same location as urs but hard to tell where they are already removed off unhoused circuit board an hard to see in one tht is just cut open.
Both the ecu’s I took apart the lettering came off the top of the resistors so I don’t know what they said.
If you can clean the board off they are numbered R743 and R744 on the connector side of the board. You can see 743 in this picture, 744 is to the right it’s a little harder to make out
www.dropbox.com/s/h124p1odmfu8p3e/20200423_183057.jpg?dl=0
How do I fix the pink wire problem?
There is a pink wire that comes out of the ignition switch. It should have ~9v +/- 0.5v on it when the key switch is on. Check it at the switch and at the ecu plug. If it doesn't have 9v there is a zener diode in the ignition switch that needs to be replaced
Ive traced a no fuel pump prime issue from the relay to ecu if i groumd the relay brown wire with black stripe it will prime constantly
Yes, that is how it should work. This issue with the ECU won't cause no fuel pump prime though.
Look into the pink wire (or HISS if you're outside north America). There is a zener diode in the ignition switch that passes 9 volts down the pink wire to the ecu. If this wire doesn't have around 8.5-9.5 volts present the fuel pump won't prime.
Actually a faulty tip over switch could also cause this. It can by bypassed by jumpering the red/white and green wire. Leave the white/black disconnected
Ive replaced the 3.9volt 1/2 wat zenner diode it tested 9 v at the ecu still no prime the bank angle is jumped and kickstand is jumped
How can I test my ecu, I have a 01cbr 929 I just got and it was workint completely fine before I swapped the frame
Hello,
I have a 1100xx with a 25 eror code. I has trying everything regarding the wires and FI is still there when I rev it more than 3000tpm. For a three days I has run it happy without FI but after 3 days FI reapear. So it must be ECU. But I think that nobody has repair this code on a ECU. Do you now why , or mabie is someonne who did this.
У меня cbr1100 2003г.в., тоже 25 ошибка. Удалось отремонтировать ЭБУ?
I went to put the arrow on my motorcycle CB 919 HONDA HORNET I pierced the module with a screw, is it fixable
Hey what size fuses you used ?
2 x 0.47 ohm in parallel
So 0.235 ohm total
Me servirán diodos de 5w 5%tolerancia y 0.22 homnios .ayudaaa
Where is the chip located that keeps the tune at plz help
Thank you for all the hard work. i have the same problem. a motor swap in a sand quad. are you willing to work on a ECU for other people. do you have price to fix my ECU. im will to pay for your time if its cheaper ECU than a used one on ebay.
buongiorno, devo chiederti una info, riguardo la mia cbr 929 anno 2000, praticamente il motore non risponde in modo regolare, manca di potenza, tutto fatto il controllo, mi rimane solo la centrale da provare, molto probabile risiede li il guasto. in ogni modo la centrale me la potete riparare voi ?
I have fried my GSXr600 2006 ecu, it says CHeC on the dash screen.
Hi Sam, I have a 2004 CBR and the F1 fuse keeps blowing. I am thinking the ECM has an issue since I've checked everywhere else pretty much. What were the symptoms with these ECMs before you started repair? Tempted to follow you fantastic video. Thanks!
This issue wouldn't cause a fuse to blow. Really unlikely any ecu fault would cause blown fuses actually. You'll need to get a wiring diagram to confirm what fuse F powers. On mine it is for the instrument cluster, looks like on some 1000's it is the fan.
@@vpsryder Thanks Sam - you may have just saved me a small fortune. I'll have another look around. Although I have disconnected the cluster and the same issue appears. Will disconnect the fan and have another go.
I have the same issue with mine any luck ?
@Hector Vela Yes. Changed the ECU and issue solved. Could be many things though...
Thank you very
Hey Sam great video just wondering if you have any photos of the ecu so i can zoom in and read the actual number written next to the eprom chip coz a part of mine came off
Try these ones. If you still can't see it if you can point out what chip it is ill see if I can read it
www.dropbox.com/s/tvmniiy1cn0iibt/20200423_182844.jpg?dl=0
www.dropbox.com/s/h124p1odmfu8p3e/20200423_183057.jpg?dl=0
What do you think the factory resistors are? .25 ohm? Do you think a 1ohm resister would be too high?
1 ohm didn't work on mine, I tried that originally. The two I have in there right now add up to 0.235ohm and they haven't given me any issues yet.
I was guessing that the factory ones were 0.25ohm (2 in series so 0.5ohm total) but that was just based on what seemed most common. I never actually tried as I didn't have anything that added up to 0.5ohm so all I can say for sure is that 0.235ohm works well on my system. Putting in a higher resistance is safe, if it is too high it won't wreck anything it just won't work. If you try 0.5ohm first let me know how it works!
Sam Robinson what wattage do you recommend? Thank you for your help!
@@thetylernelson As high as you can make fit! I don't know exactly what was in there originally because the markings came off, but the physical size suggests 5w. If you plugged in the circuit to constant power with .235 ohm total (what I have currently) over two resistors each one would be dissipating around 9 watts. Obviously this isn't the case as the circuit is only on momentarily as the plug fires but I don't know the duration so I can't calculate that. My guess is the 5 watt ones are probably big enough on paper but the problem is they are rated in a open air case, not under an inch of potting. Anything you can do to add wattage or increase heat dissipation would make them last longer.
No problem! Hope that helps you!
Sam Robinson dude it Worked! Months of frustration is finally over! Thank you so much.
By the way my bike is a CBR600f4i
Hell yeah bud! Glad it's working for other people, that's awesome!
What chemicals did you use to melt the rubber?
Sorry about the stupid question, I watched the video and got my answer thanks alot great video
Hi Sam, is there a way i can test if its those 2 baddies before i open the ECU? I am getting power on the ignition coil plugs, fuel pump prines, it cranks but won't start.
Como le quitas la goma negra asi de limpio
Tengo un cbr 900 rr marca la luz verde de la llave pero no hay chispa
Does this problem affect how bright your spark is we're how strong your spark is
It could, but it's pretty unlikely. It would require the resistors to slightly fail (increase resistance slightly) but that's pretty abnormal. Usually they either work correctly or not at all.
If it's weak across all 4 holes I would make sure there is full voltage at the coil plugs and the grounds from the ecu are all good first. There's several star grounds throughout the wiring harness where a bunch of ground wires meet, they are known for sometimes corroding
Hi,Someone can read the bin file in the Eeprom?
So you mounted externally from one side to the other side ? What about the 2 in the middle.. great video I’m just a little confused.. do you a post step by step .. thanks bud
hey Sam, Scott here. So I'm getting no spark and no prime. I've removed all the potting from my ecu and I'm a little lost... k on the middle grounding rod where you have the 5 resisters that have screws in them ..are all of those supposed to read the same when testing the outer 2sides of each fork in the middle?
Hi Scott. The problem outlined in this video doesn’t cause no prime, only no spark. No prime is usually the ‘pink wire’ (from the ignition switch to ecu, should have around 9 volts when key is on), or HISS if equipped, or the safety circuit (side stand, clutch switch, etc)
Regarding the 5 parts, the ones screwed into the large aluminum heat sink are IGBT’s not resistors. I don’t know if they can be read correctly without removing them from the board, depends a bit on circuits they are attached to I think.
@@vpsryder hey Sam thanks for getting back to me well I'm just trying to figure out when I bought this bike it wasn't running and I got it running after about a week because I found out about the pink wire now I have replaced my regulator rectifier stator and cam pulls generator. now as I stated I bought the bike running so I've been using a 9 volt battery to use to drop the voltage instead of a zener diode but now that I've replaced all these parts I'm not getting spark and I've tested out the resistors that you have been talking about in your video and they test fine I guess they're within spec from what you have explained so I don't know why I'm not getting any spark now when I use the 9 volt it only triggers the safe mode if I have my paper clip shorting out the plug and that works only if I apply the 9 volt but now when I apply the 9 volt the fuel pump won't come on and the fuel pump is good because if I jump for it it works I just can't figure out why it's not accepting this 9 volt drop anymore any thoughts cuz I've been working on this for forever in a day months almost a year ....
Excuse me a question....
But the resistori are 47 or 0.47 Ohm? 😳!
0.47 ohm. They are very small.
How to remove epoxy on ecm
What ohm resitors should I use ??
0.25 ohm total resistance, about 10w power rating. Something like this would work if you mount the resistor externally like I have in the video www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/vishay-dale/RS010R2500FE73/RSD-.25RCT-ND/1166587
@@vpsryder what if I wanted to cover up the hole, I saw in the description that I can use SMD's but I'm new to all of these electrical stuff and really don't know how ohm resitors
*work
Will you fix mine and how much please?
What kind of cleaner did you say you was using? Had to understand.
My man everything is fine on your presentation --- only problem is i can't really hear anything with the bloody loud radio in the background?????
What's up man, how do you opened a ecu?
Fr
Hello friend, I have a problem, I am from Mexico, and it is a bit difficult for me to understand the video, do you think you can help me?
my fault is in my third coil, my motorcycle is an f4i, without connecting the coil it gives me voltage and gives me ground pulses, but when I connect the coil or some test led the circuit is closed, you have any idea what it could be ?
my coil does work and also my spark plug only fails when connecting a circuit to the harness of that coil
Thank you very much!!
I can't think of any reason it would do that apart from having a short circuit somewhere on the ecu (ground) side of the coil wiring. I would try this:
At the coil plug, turn the key on and test the black wire for power there should be battery voltage there. Turn the key off, do a resistance test from the other wire to ground. There should be no circuit. If there is a path to ground, unplug the ecu and try again. If there is still a path to ground then you have there a short in that wire somewhere in the harness. If the path to ground goes away there is a problem with the ecu.
Alternatively you could re pin the ecu connector and switch the leads from coil two and three. If the problem moves the ecu is the issue, if it doesn't move its the harness
Can i send my ecu to anyone here to repair mine? Same issue.
Very informative, thank you.
What a pain in th3 ass. My next bike will DEFINITELY be carburated 🤦♂️ my cbr f4i will be for sale shortly.
Pour CBR Honda 1100 xx6 ne 2006
Please I some help here
Thank you 🙏🏽
Sam can u help.
REALLY interested in what you are saying, NOT the music.
Clever fix - props!
Nice work Sam
Thank you man, it really works.
How do u open it
@@allahcemen9864 Very carefuly with a sharp knife digging it up. It take a certain amount of time and patience.
Please stop slamming the ecu off the table :)
Thank yuo sam thank 1000l like
Like + sub you are very smart!! Could you reply back to me with a link for these resistors .. so I know I get the right ones please thank you so much
Yuo genius