Thank you for being clear and concise. You made all the jargon on the blades easy to understand as well as how it applies to actual use on my projects. I did appreciate the humor too!
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Tx George. This is very similar to your previous segment with the Yellow sponsor. How about revealing the pros and cons of thin kerf blades and perhaps go into more detail about blades that are more suitable for cutting double sided laminates vs. single sided laminates. You could also talk about glue line rip blades and then possibly go into why one would choose a dedicated box joint blade set over a normal dado set. Of course I don't know if the Black and Red sponsor has this selection.
Great video! Just the video I was looking for! When my father passed away a year ago, I got all his woodworking machines. Slowly I had to learn how these machines work. The difference in cross cut and ripping blades was one of the things that really confused me! Very informative! Thanks!!
Hello. On my late 90s model Delta Unisaw the miter gauge is approximately 4-1/4" from the blade on the right, and 5-1/2" on the left. There are no standards for miter slot placement, so be sure to measure on your actual saw for making jigs. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa Thank you! Any ideas how I can make my MasterForce 10" Jobsite Table Saw table smoother. It is made out of aluminum & has a somewhat (feels to me) of a rough textured feel to it, especially in the Miter tracks. It is what I could afford at the time & I was ignorant of what to look for when I purchased it😔😔. Thanks in advance!
I purchased a Guhdo Gmax 50 tooth combo blade from a trade show. Was pitched to me as working well in plywood as well as solid stock. It is perhaps the best rip blade that I have ever used. Easily handling 2 inch oak and pecan. Very very high quality carbide. LONG time between sharpenings. Not suitable for plywood. I have been using Freud Industrial plywood and melamine blades for my cabinet construction. Very happy with my cuts.
Your blade could be too low to make the cut depending on the amount of teeth, RPM, wood density, and thickness of wood stock you are cutting. When ripping, your blade could be raised an inch to two inches above the top of the material to reduce the temperature of the blade caused by friction. Your blade kerf might also be too wide. The thinner the blade, the less you have to worry about teeth spacing IMO.
Derek Miller an inch or two inches above the top of the material ? While I'm not the safety "police", idk about that in terms of safety. 1/8"-1/4 " is good enough. Other alternatives is cleaning regularly the blade and coating in silicone free dry lubricant or paste wax to reduce pitch build up that contributes to heat generation and burning
I like the fact your showing a sawstop saw I'd replace my saw but its brand new. but I'd like to point out your showing a black painted blade with the sawstop, the saw blade has to conduct electricity to have the stop work in case of contact with flesh. I watched sevral demo's of the saw stop in action and he made a point to tell us on a painted or coated blade the paint must be removed at the center for the safety on the saw to work.
lol he doesn't need to unplug his saw when changing blades -- hes got a SawStop! If it were to somehow accidentally start, he'd have nothing more than a tickled hotdog finger.
If you truly want to teach someting about those blades, it would have been better to show what happens if you are to lazy to switch between blades. Show me what happens if you use the wrong blade for the job, how bad is it going to be.
I gave this a thumbs down because the constant popping in and out of the WWGOA ad across the bottom isn't just irritating, it detracts greatly from the quality of the video by blocking what's going on. Boo.
I'm sorry but I had to pause this vid at 0:57 and not watch any further. You sir are talking utter nonsense and I cant take anything else you say seriously. If you think that laying a CARBIDE blade flat on cast iron has any impact on the blade at all in any way shape or form you are mistaken.. Worst case scenario you will scratch the table saw and the blade will laugh at you and say that's what you get.
MrWizards1974 BULLSHIT!! one of my guys chipped-off 2 teeth and part of a 3rd trying to pick up an 80 tooth carbide blade off of the cast iron top on one of our table saws...He set the blade down for some stupid ass reason. when he went to grab it, he got it maybe 2 inches off the cast iron top when It slipped and slammed down!'...2 INCHES OFF THE TOP Fd UP MY $100 blade!!!! and no, blades don't laugh, however they do scratch cast iron tops..you were right there..overall though, your comment is stupid and inaccurate. Any person in my shop is given 1 warning only. don't set your drinks on my cast iron, and don't set my carbide router bits, blades, etc, on my cast iron.. leaving a hand plane or fine Chisel on my cast iron (regardless of how you positioned it) will get a free ass chewing aswel...it's easy...DON'T LAY IT ON THE F.. CAST IRON!!.. it's not like there's a shortage of wood in the shop or anything.
YOU FORGOT TO COVER A GOOD BLADE FOR CUTTING PLYWOOD ???!!?? GOOD LORD HOW CAN YOU NOT COVER THAT, PLYWOOD IS ONE OF THE BIGGEST WOODS WE CUT, WE DON'T ALL SPEND BIG MONEY ON HARDWOOD FOR SIMPLE PROJECTS..YOU GOTTA THINK OF THE AVERAGE JOE HERE, NOT SOME RICH GUY.
Hello, At 4:20 the blade being shown is defined as a blade that’s good for crosscutting and sheet goods, which means it would be good for plywood. Hope this helps, George WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
oh, you said it in 'code', great didn't know I had to be a detective to understand a video that is supposed to be simple and straightforward to understand. Speak simply, directly and plainly, you will be far more effective.
I don't see enough videos on UA-cam regarding saw blade dampener/stiffeners. They're a must have if you ask me, but few even know they exist.
Thank you for being clear and concise. You made all the jargon on the blades easy to understand as well as how it applies to actual use on my projects. I did appreciate the humor too!
I finally understand!! Thank you man!!! Really well explained
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Glad you enjoyed it Ron! Happy woodworking!
Very informative, thank you. Would have loved to see the melamine piece cut with all 3 blades to see the difference..and compare.
Awesome video, just and excellent presentation! Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thank you!
finally a good explanation at which saw blade to select, how and why! :) thks!
Excelent explanation. Thank you!
Thank you very much, your videos are very educational.
Tx George.
This is very similar to your previous segment with the Yellow sponsor. How about revealing the pros and cons of thin kerf blades and perhaps go into more detail about blades that are more suitable for cutting double sided laminates vs. single sided laminates. You could also talk about glue line rip blades and then possibly go into why one would choose a dedicated box joint blade set over a normal dado set.
Of course I don't know if the Black and Red sponsor has this selection.
Please tell me the best blade to cut thin cuts.thanks
Thanks, you just gave me the decision to buy a new blade.
Great video! Just the video I was looking for! When my father passed away a year ago, I got all his woodworking machines. Slowly I had to learn how these machines work. The difference in cross cut and ripping blades was one of the things that really confused me! Very informative! Thanks!!
+pjenslin1 Could have sold them. Good for you for keeping them AND learning the craft! You'll not regret it. =)
Aaron Fruman n
Good stuff . . . thanks.
Thanks, well done.
I would recommend any atb or tcg 60 tooth or above blade. If 12", 80 teeth or above.
Why does the circulr saw does not move stright
Great info. Question I have is around what are the blades that provide the best glue edge results?
can i used blade for cutting. metal on the table saw?
What kind of blade would you suggest for crosscutting 3/4" oak plywood (or really any plywood)?
I never lay a blade on my saw top either and this is a good video with useful information.
Put the 60 tooth through all the tests and I bet it will have to overall best performance. Only question might be ripping a full 3" of hardwood.
How far away from the saw blade is your miter gauge slot?
Hello. On my late 90s model Delta Unisaw the miter gauge is approximately 4-1/4" from the blade on the right, and 5-1/2" on the left. There are no standards for miter slot placement, so be sure to measure on your actual saw for making jigs.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa Thank you! Any ideas how I can make my MasterForce 10" Jobsite Table Saw table smoother. It is made out of aluminum & has a somewhat (feels to me) of a rough textured feel to it, especially in the Miter tracks. It is what I could afford at the time & I was ignorant of what to look for when I purchased it😔😔. Thanks in advance!
Thanks :)
Do you still recommend and use these blades?
Yes. We haven’t used them a ton but they seem to be good quality blades.
i was hoping that you will show the difference of cut between cross cutting and ripping wirh the same blade
are Guhdo Gmax comparable to frued or forrester blades?
I’ve had a couple Gudho blades in my shop for about a year. Haven’t done any head to head comparisons, but they’re cutting well for me.
I purchased a Guhdo Gmax 50 tooth combo blade from a trade show. Was pitched to me as working well in plywood as well as solid stock. It is perhaps the best rip blade that I have ever used. Easily handling 2 inch oak and pecan. Very very high quality carbide. LONG time between sharpenings. Not suitable for plywood.
I have been using Freud Industrial plywood and melamine blades for my cabinet construction. Very happy with my cuts.
Can anyone tell me why I get burn marks while makeing rip and cross cuts the marks are on both sides of my cuts ive aligned the saw blade
possibly blunt older blade? or wood fed very slowly through..
Your blade could be too low to make the cut depending on the amount of teeth, RPM, wood density, and thickness of wood stock you are cutting. When ripping, your blade could be raised an inch to two inches above the top of the material to reduce the temperature of the blade caused by friction. Your blade kerf might also be too wide. The thinner the blade, the less you have to worry about teeth spacing IMO.
algood Had the same issue. Bought a new blade. Cuts like butter so the wood isn't in one place long enough to burn.
Derek Miller an inch or two inches above the top of the material ? While I'm not the safety "police", idk about that in terms of safety. 1/8"-1/4 " is good enough. Other alternatives is cleaning regularly the blade and coating in silicone free dry lubricant or paste wax to reduce pitch build up that contributes to heat generation and burning
Dumadean Simpson It slightly changes the way the rake pulls the stock.
I like the fact your showing a sawstop saw I'd replace my saw but its brand new.
but I'd like to point out your showing a black painted blade with the sawstop, the saw blade has to conduct electricity to have the stop work in case of contact with flesh.
I watched sevral demo's of the saw stop in action and he made a point to tell us on a painted or coated blade the paint must be removed at the center for the safety on the saw to work.
How true good blade equals good cut results.
Damn good video
Would have been good to see all blades cut all materials to see how they are or aren't suitable.
doyle201206 m
What guitar chord is that in the opening?
SIR, you should use WAGEN saw blade . which is better quality , and long life
The lighting is not good at all. Please remember in future
But you still need a decent saw.
lol he doesn't need to unplug his saw when changing blades -- hes got a SawStop!
If it were to somehow accidentally start, he'd have nothing more than a tickled hotdog finger.
kflo411 and a very messed up table saw
kflo411 and an expensive cartridge to replace.
If you truly want to teach someting about those blades, it would have been better to show what happens if you are to lazy to switch between blades. Show me what happens if you use the wrong blade for the job, how bad is it going to be.
I gave this a thumbs down because the constant popping in and out of the WWGOA ad across the bottom isn't just irritating, it detracts greatly from the quality of the video by blocking what's going on. Boo.
Mike L
It’s too bad there are people out there like you Mike who always want something for nothing
Does this guy know how to party or what?
like the info but can we stop covering a third of my screen with the manufacturer of the blade.we can tell what freaking blade you are using
I'm sorry but I had to pause this vid at 0:57 and not watch any further. You sir are talking utter nonsense and I cant take anything else you say seriously. If you think that laying a CARBIDE blade flat on cast iron has any impact on the blade at all in any way shape or form you are mistaken.. Worst case scenario you will scratch the table saw and the blade will laugh at you and say that's what you get.
MrWizards1974 BULLSHIT!! one of my guys chipped-off 2 teeth and part of a 3rd trying to pick up an 80 tooth carbide blade off of the cast iron top on one of our table saws...He set the blade down for some stupid ass reason. when he went to grab it, he got it maybe 2 inches off the cast iron top when It slipped and slammed down!'...2 INCHES OFF THE TOP Fd UP MY $100 blade!!!! and no, blades don't laugh, however they do scratch cast iron tops..you were right there..overall though, your comment is stupid and inaccurate. Any person in my shop is given 1 warning only. don't set your drinks on my cast iron, and don't set my carbide router bits, blades, etc, on my cast iron.. leaving a hand plane or fine Chisel on my cast iron (regardless of how you positioned it) will get a free ass chewing aswel...it's easy...DON'T LAY IT ON THE F.. CAST IRON!!.. it's not like there's a shortage of wood in the shop or anything.
This guy has such a dry personality. Made me stop woodworking for years. I now watch the upcoming women wood turners. So much better.
YOU FORGOT TO COVER A GOOD BLADE FOR CUTTING PLYWOOD ???!!?? GOOD LORD HOW CAN YOU NOT COVER THAT, PLYWOOD IS ONE OF THE BIGGEST WOODS WE CUT, WE DON'T ALL SPEND BIG MONEY ON HARDWOOD FOR SIMPLE PROJECTS..YOU GOTTA THINK OF THE AVERAGE JOE HERE, NOT SOME RICH GUY.
Hello,
At 4:20 the blade being shown is defined as a blade that’s good for
crosscutting and sheet goods, which means it would be good for plywood.
Hope this helps,
George
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
oh, you said it in 'code', great didn't know I had to be a detective to understand a video that is supposed to be simple and straightforward to understand. Speak simply, directly and plainly, you will be far more effective.