As Thomsa has said, packaging tape is fantasticly resistant to epoxy. I use the brown version because you can easily check that you have covered everything.
😅 Little things go fast... There are just so many of them.... Having to leave the country at regular intervals doesn't help. We feel pretty much ready for finally glueing everything in....
It's fun watching the trial and error learning with solving process. Reminds me of the blood, sweat and tears of Rosco and Janet on Life on the hulls. Prepping and demolding from molds. Using what they have and making adjustments based on the results. No stopping now. Place looks cleaner. Towards the end of the day, if you have a long hose and access to water, soak the floor and let dry overnight. Less dusty, firmer, flatter. Another option is to lay discarded appliance(fridge, freezer) corrugated on the dirt flor.
Congrats Guys, it worked as planned. Now to the next stage! I'm seriously looking forward to seeing your next video as I'm sure thousands of others are to 🍻
Can't believe you are binge watching the whole thing! That's commitment! Hopefully we can continue to keep you involved... If we can keep the content coming.
I come from a background of 25+ years of working with fiberglass reinforced products. When we made molds and had concerns about resin attacking the mold master and sticking to it, we used a release agent called PVA, polyvinyl alcohol. It is appliied with a spray gun and creates a barrier between the gelkote or resin and wood, metal, or whatever is being used as the mold. You also need to contact your resin/gelkote supplier and ask for some mold release wax. Petroleum jelly does not work.
We have both PVA and mold release wax. But because we had the 30 layers of paper, wax or PVA would have been difficult to apply. On the edge, it would have worked, we ended up working with packing tape for the 2nd cylinder and that did the job. Petroleum jelly is actually suggested by the designer for many applications.... and works well for some parts.... for some reasons it didn't work with the green tape. Thanks for the comment and feedback!
Hi guys, sorry for the late message. I have just watched your latest video it's so interesting that your new electronic system . I have been off sailing in Sydney on my new yacht keep up the great work I am looking forward to next week. From Craig
I’ve been following the project since the beginning. You guys are awesome ❤❤❤. Thank you for sharing your project with us viewers. Wilda is looking snazzy…😊
Next time try using PVC tape and boron nitride spray on top as release agent. They are fantastic slippery and would definitely work... Also I think u need more cross bracing after installing the aluminium tube to the hull. Hope u have planned for it. This project is very interesting for me as an electrical engineer.
PVC tape works great when you can get it to stick. We ended up using packing tape for the 2nd cylinder and it worked better. We'll look up the boron nitride spray. Could be useful in the future, thanks for the suggestion!
Ive used petroleum jelly ( I thought it was an original idea lol ) and found it works fine in the right situation - small parts etc. Brown packing tape works well. I also used mould release wax on my trimaran arm moulds which is good for large glossy surfaced parts but requires some work. I applied about 6 layers and polished each before applying the next - it's all in the prep. Fine tapered hardwood wedges make great tools for removing the piece from a mould - being a little softer than the glass they don't ding it like metal can, but you can still wack them with a hammer. Looking forward to seeing this go together. Cheers.
Thanks, we've used all methods for release in the past and some worked better than others. for the 2nd cylinder we went with packing tape and the release was easier than for the 1st one. Something happened with the green tape and the vaseline on the 1st one. Nevermind, we got it done :) Thanks for the feedback and good to see you back again! Cheers
Did you ever consider making the hull perpendicular to the axis of your drive cells. Then you could make that wedge shaped speed brake under the prop cowl a single thin blade. The small flat area fared to the hull would be a small increase in drag in full sail mode but the improvement in drag of the drive cell at both the bottom and the top hull interface (especially if turning cells 180' for better generating prop dynamics) seems like it would more than make up for it. Efficiency when using / generating power will have a $ effect (assuming diesel generator) vs a small top speed penalty. I"m sure you thought this through and i'm wrong (I only have an armature interest in fluid dynamics) but am curious what your investigations / calculations indicated. Thanks for having the courage to step outside the box and do interesting things.
We'll make that speed break wedge as hydrodynamic as we can... It will really only make a difference when using as a generator. When motoring, speed will be so slow in any case. Thanks for your interest and hope you come back to watch more of our progress :)
Just a curious question, in the rendering of the propulsion system there is a lid at the bottom of it which I assume is there to seal when the propeller is retracted. As the boat hull isn't flat, bow to stern, it is thicker in the front than in the back. Wouldn't it be a good idea to thin it out in the front too so that it won't cause any unnecessary drag? As long as it seals against the hull when it is up it will perform as intended, right? I assume that it is just that the inner floor of the lid is modeled to be flat for some reason?
I like and understand the concept of what you are trying to achieve with the drive system. But I’m wondering if you have taken into account the load on all these parts under operation . The stress on the body and the fact it has to rotate like a bow thruster. No slew bearing to distribute the load more evenly and let it move. I’m waiting with anticipation to see it function. I really hope you don’t get any stress fractures once it’s in the water.
There will be some sort of slew bearing. Design isn't complete yet, it will be a bit of trial and error. The problem is that the cylinders are not perfectly cylindrical. Despite having them custom built... But there will be a bearing surface of some sort. No rollers if I can get away with it though... If we do need them, there is space for roller bearings as well. Hope not to need them though. The maximum thrust will be in the range of 250 to 300 kgf.
I agree . Very hard to manufacture anything of that sort to have minimal runout cylindrically. The bearing surface also has to be able to run but then retract. I would be going down the track of a nylon bearing type and also needing some sort of thrust device on top to hold it at the correct elevation for the 2 required positions. As I said waiting with anticipation.
That should work .. windelo's use lower 20kw power motors ...see the latest episode of the barefoot doctors... They do a tour and ask a bunch of relevant questions.
As Thomsa has said, packaging tape is fantasticly resistant to epoxy. I use the brown version because you can easily check that you have covered everything.
Yep, thanks, we used that for the 2nd cylinder.
Watching you two make the second ring wow you work very fast. Ha Ha
Cheers Rory
😅 Little things go fast... There are just so many of them.... Having to leave the country at regular intervals doesn't help.
We feel pretty much ready for finally glueing everything in....
Clear cellophane packing tape is a great release surface when working with epoxy resin. I use it all the time.
Thanks, yep, we used it on the 2nd cylinder and it worked well
It's fun watching the trial and error learning with solving process. Reminds me of the blood, sweat and tears of Rosco and Janet on Life on the hulls. Prepping and demolding from molds. Using what they have and making adjustments based on the results. No stopping now. Place looks cleaner.
Towards the end of the day, if you have a long hose and access to water, soak the floor and let dry overnight. Less dusty, firmer, flatter. Another option is to lay discarded appliance(fridge, freezer) corrugated on the dirt flor.
Thanks for the comment! You never miss an episode! It felt great getting rid of the rubbish and getting the shed tidied up.
Congrats Guys, it worked as planned. Now to the next stage!
I'm seriously looking forward to seeing your next video as I'm sure thousands of others are to 🍻
Thanks for the encouragement! We are working on it!
Well done on achieving one more objective.😀👍⛵️
Can't believe you are binge watching the whole thing! That's commitment!
Hopefully we can continue to keep you involved... If we can keep the content coming.
@@buildingwilda I’m hooked.🤣
I come from a background of 25+ years of working with fiberglass reinforced products. When we made molds and had concerns about resin attacking the mold master and sticking to it, we used a release agent called PVA, polyvinyl alcohol. It is appliied with a spray gun and creates a barrier between the gelkote or resin and wood, metal, or whatever is being used as the mold. You also need to contact your resin/gelkote supplier and ask for some mold release wax. Petroleum jelly does not work.
We have both PVA and mold release wax. But because we had the 30 layers of paper, wax or PVA would have been difficult to apply. On the edge, it would have worked, we ended up working with packing tape for the 2nd cylinder and that did the job. Petroleum jelly is actually suggested by the designer for many applications.... and works well for some parts.... for some reasons it didn't work with the green tape. Thanks for the comment and feedback!
Interesting project, you deserve more ‘subs’ than you have. Keep up the great work.
Much appreciated! Thanks, we'll try to get better!
Well done 😊😊😊
Thank you! Cheers! :)
Fascinating to watch - - thank you very much
Thank you!
I do like your editing. Nice work also
Thank you so much 😊
Hi guys, sorry for the late message. I have just watched your latest video it's so interesting that your new electronic system . I have been off sailing in Sydney on my new yacht keep up the great work I am looking forward to next week. From Craig
No worries, thanks for coming back! Looking forward to going sailing as well :) Sure, working on the next video!
I’ve been following the project since the beginning. You guys are awesome ❤❤❤. Thank you for sharing your project with us viewers. Wilda is looking snazzy…😊
Snazzy we like! :) Thanks for the comment and for following us through all the sanding!
Next time try using PVC tape and boron nitride spray on top as release agent. They are fantastic slippery and would definitely work...
Also I think u need more cross bracing after installing the aluminium tube to the hull. Hope u have planned for it.
This project is very interesting for me as an electrical engineer.
PVC tape works great when you can get it to stick. We ended up using packing tape for the 2nd cylinder and it worked better. We'll look up the boron nitride spray. Could be useful in the future, thanks for the suggestion!
Try clear plastic tape for releasing
Yes, that works too! Thanks for the comment!
Ive used petroleum jelly ( I thought it was an original idea lol ) and found it works fine in the right situation - small parts etc. Brown packing tape works well. I also used mould release wax on my trimaran arm moulds which is good for large glossy surfaced parts but requires some work. I applied about 6 layers and polished each before applying the next - it's all in the prep. Fine tapered hardwood wedges make great tools for removing the piece from a mould - being a little softer than the glass they don't ding it like metal can, but you can still wack them with a hammer. Looking forward to seeing this go together. Cheers.
Thanks, we've used all methods for release in the past and some worked better than others. for the 2nd cylinder we went with packing tape and the release was easier than for the 1st one. Something happened with the green tape and the vaseline on the 1st one. Nevermind, we got it done :) Thanks for the feedback and good to see you back again! Cheers
Loving the project!
Thanks!
Famous last words..... It'll be EASY!!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yes! :)
You need the shiny clear packaging tape. The epoxy won't stick to that.
Indeed, thanks! That's what we used for the 2nd cylinder!
Did you ever consider making the hull perpendicular to the axis of your drive cells. Then you could make that wedge shaped speed brake under the prop cowl a single thin blade. The small flat area fared to the hull would be a small increase in drag in full sail mode but the improvement in drag of the drive cell at both the bottom and the top hull interface (especially if turning cells 180' for better generating prop dynamics) seems like it would more than make up for it. Efficiency when using / generating power will have a $ effect (assuming diesel generator) vs a small top speed penalty.
I"m sure you thought this through and i'm wrong (I only have an armature interest in fluid dynamics) but am curious what your investigations / calculations indicated. Thanks for having the courage to step outside the box and do interesting things.
We'll make that speed break wedge as hydrodynamic as we can... It will really only make a difference when using as a generator. When motoring, speed will be so slow in any case. Thanks for your interest and hope you come back to watch more of our progress :)
Use some baking paper it is water resistant and slippery! 😊
That's the one we haven't tried yet. We're considering even silicone baking sheets. Should work well. Thanks for the suggestion!
Just a curious question, in the rendering of the propulsion system there is a lid at the bottom of it which I assume is there to seal when the propeller is retracted. As the boat hull isn't flat, bow to stern, it is thicker in the front than in the back. Wouldn't it be a good idea to thin it out in the front too so that it won't cause any unnecessary drag? As long as it seals against the hull when it is up it will perform as intended, right? I assume that it is just that the inner floor of the lid is modeled to be flat for some reason?
We'll try to make that component/lid as hydrodynamic as we can. The rendering is for illustration mostly. Thanks for the comment!
I like and understand the concept of what you are trying to achieve with the drive system. But I’m wondering if you have taken into account the load on all these parts under operation . The stress on the body and the fact it has to rotate like a bow thruster. No slew bearing to distribute the load more evenly and let it move. I’m waiting with anticipation to see it function. I really hope you don’t get any stress fractures once it’s in the water.
There will be some sort of slew bearing. Design isn't complete yet, it will be a bit of trial and error. The problem is that the cylinders are not perfectly cylindrical. Despite having them custom built...
But there will be a bearing surface of some sort. No rollers if I can get away with it though... If we do need them, there is space for roller bearings as well. Hope not to need them though.
The maximum thrust will be in the range of 250 to 300 kgf.
I agree . Very hard to manufacture anything of that sort to have minimal runout cylindrically. The bearing surface also has to be able to run but then retract. I would be going down the track of a nylon bearing type and also needing some sort of thrust device on top to hold it at the correct elevation for the 2 required positions.
As I said waiting with anticipation.
Hello, what size thruster did you purchase from vetus ? i think your idea is genius
The biggest we could fit in the flat part of the hull. A 30kW hydraulic leg. We hope it works! :)
@@buildingwilda Sweet .. i think it will work , they have a continuous run time
That should work .. windelo's use lower 20kw power motors ...see the latest episode of the barefoot doctors... They do a tour and ask a bunch of relevant questions.
hmmm I'm confused why you didn't just use mould release wax...
Because we needed a spacer (the 30 layers of paper).... wax works great for smooth molds.
Very cool build!
Don’t chew gum while filming. 😂
True, sorry about that! :)
Please don’t speed up your video playback, let us viewers speed it up if we wish
We'll keep that in mind :) Thanks for the feedback! Hope you keep watching our progress