How to mat a print in an archival, conservation-safe manner
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- Опубліковано 3 лип 2024
- The best thing to do with a loose print is to mat it so that it can be framed. But where to begin? This video shows step by step how to mat a print using the hinge method, which is one of the best possible ways to ensure conservator-friendly archivability.
This method is great for flat prints. If your print is curled or wrinkled you will need to mount it to a backing board. Check out my other video to see how that is done.
~Josh
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My website: www.joshuacripps.com
My blog: www.joshuacripps.com/blog
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Thank you for posting this video! I've been trying to find a technique that will work well for mounting and framing images for a gallery, and this tutorial was just what I needed. It's great to have the visual, rather than just reading about it!
This video has been a huge help to me in learning to mat and frame my heart paintings. I really appreciate it!
Thanks Josh for an easy to follow video on how to professionally mount photographs. I have used this technique and it works very well.
Thank you so much for this useful reference, whether you frame it yourself or for those ordering from a professional, it definately will give you a better idea on the framing process of your art or photo collection. Your awesome.
Brilliant! This is exactly what I needed to know in 1 well done video. Thanks for taking the time to post your technique and, the products you use!
Hi Josh, An update on the mounting. Your hinging system worked really well. I went to the county fair yesterday and my prints were still hanging nicely with no wrinkles in the mats or the photos -- first time ever!
By the way, your Santa Cruz workshop is still paying dividends! I got two photos accepted into the county fair, utilizing the photo techniques you taught. Thanks again!
thanks so much for your quick response, much appreciated and very interesting to hear more about how you work, Chris
Thanks, this video was very useful to me when I was framing some prints I had purchased.
BRILLIANT! Thank you for this clarity.
Thanks for the reply, Josh. Much appreciated!
Thank you for making this video! Extremely helpful.
Thanks for the quick reply and updated info!
Great video, could not have done it without your help here.
This was super useful. Thank you so much.
fantastic tutorial! thank you for sharing.
Wow! You made that a lot easier than some! thanks!
Very good tutorial, this is how it's done in commercial framing shops. We use a acid free double stick adhesive to secure the mat to the foamcore. This will keep the mat in place and you can lift the mat if necessary without any damage. Scotch makes a tape gun that works great for production you can buy at Dick Blick or any art or framing supply house.
@ChrisRRJones : Hey Chris, glad you found the vid useful! I was using foamcore instead of mount board simply because it was cheaper, though I was still using acid-free archival stuff. I've since switched to mounting board and find pros and cons to each method.
Mountboard
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Pros - truly archival. thinner than foamcore, so I can now bring more prints with me to art shows and they take up the same amount of space. mount board doesn't warp with temp and humidity fluctuations
great video and great advice , thankyou very much for sharing your techniques.
Hi Jim,
I've changed my method a little bit and now I actually use two different archival pens to sign the print. One is a black pen from Micron to sign the back, and the other is an archival silver paint pen to sign the print. Got both from my local art supply store.
Cheers,
Josh
I always put the title on the front. Many artists/painters have been doing it, so I started and have had many comments from my clients and even those just browsing, that they like how I title it, because most of my work are scenes they have been to, so they like seeing the title that also indicates location.
spot-on advice on both points. good information.
Thanks for all the useful tips! I never thought to hinge the prints, starting from behind. And also for suggesting to glue the corners of the mat board to the foam board to keep the mat frame from slipping. Very nicely done :-)
Instablaster...
Thankyou so much for posting this video. This helps me out sooooo much. :)
Thank you, great video.
Thanks for posting this.
Thank you! This is exactly the help I needed :-)
It certainly can. I have had that problem in the past with light prints or if I sign in a light area of the print. So now what I do is make sure to sign in the darkest corner of the print where the ink is the heaviest, then the signature never shows through. And this was really only a problem for me for matte prints I made myself. For lab prints on a traditional photo paper I never saw the signature shine through. Cheers.
thank you so much for posting this. Very helpful! :)
Outstanding advice, thankyou so much :)
Hi Chris,
Yup, done changed that up and now I mount to backing board. The final product is placed in a cellophane bag from ClearBags.
Josh
This was a great video - I'll be using your technique to mount a concert poster by Medeski, Martin and Wood (it was a great show). This will be great for probably every print of value in my collection. Thanks for posting this video.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Hi Josh, This was a very helpful video -- thanks for posting it. In the past, I haven't hinged the mat and have only used double-sided tape all over underneath the mat to secure it to the foamcore. I've been having problems with curling of the mat in high-humidity environments (when displaying unframed in exhibitions near the coast). So, I'm hoping the hinge tape and the dab of glue will be a better way of keeping things in place while still allowing for expansion/contraction due to humidity.
I always leave a 1/4" around my prints for me to"
Number-left, Title-center, and Sign-right,
Most of my prints have at least a 1" border when I print them.
The rest of what you do with your matting, I do pretty much the same thing.
Although, I don't use glue from a bottle. I use the clear ATG framers tape because it holds well and I can just slide my finger between the mat and board to unattach if I need to.
I do at least 18 outdoor shows a year, so like you, I like keeping the mat in place.
@rockerD82: Depends on your personal preference. I use a 1/4" black border for the mat that I find works really well.
Nicely done. The only thing that I would add (and it is a personal preference) is that I always choose to put a piece of acid free rag paper between the foam core and the print. Most foam core is faced with paper, which can breakdown, overtime, generating acid and oxidizing the print. The foam core is there to provide the rigidity required for framing, but the heavy weight archival paper will act as a barrier between the print and the foam core's paper facing.
Thanks, and well said. I actually no longer use the foam core but rather acid free backing board. Unfortunately it's difficult to keep the video updated with new techniques, so I appreciate the addition of your comment.
@jgcoutdoors, Glad you found this vid helpful. The tape is called Filmoplast P90. I get it from a frame shop. Good luck!
Hi Joe, I do use t-hinges on just the top of the print. It's absolutely strong enough to hold it in place. I usually overlap the mat about 1/4" inch. Some buckling/curling is probably inevitable, even with this method. You can try using a matte paper to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, or if they get very pronounced, have the print dry-mounted to your backing board. That will keep the print flat forever and it's still (in theory) an archival, reversible process. Cheers.
@homemademom1 :Thanks! Many people choose white mats because it helps to set off the artwork. Although it is possible to choose a colored mat which complements the artwork, many times a colored mat will compete for the viewer's attention and distract from the art. And for photography a white or black mat is especially nice because it helps the colors in the photograph seem true.
Excellent
@Kimbo83: Good question! I can't say if the exact 27" width is ok. You'll have to measure the poster and measure the frame precisely to make sure it will fit.
As for the mat, the poster might sag eventually into the glass. The best solution I can think of is to take the poster into your local frame shop and have them use their dry mount press to mount the poster to a piece of foam board. That will prevent it from sagging, and the dry mount is still archival. Good luck!
excellent - thanks so much,
In this video I was using 1/4" foamcore but I have since moved to using a thin, archival backing board which is only 1/32" thick. It's much less rigid than the foamcore but it is also more resistant to warping when exposed to heat and humidity fluctuations. I get this backing board from clearbags. Good luck!
@ChrisRRJones continued...
Mountboard cons - a little more expensive than foamcore. It's not stiff like foamcore, so you have to be more careful not to bend the print. when you go to frame it, you'll probably also have to add some kind of backing board in order to give the piece some rigidity in the frame.
Good tutorial but when I do my mats I wear cotton lintless gloves to avoid any residue on my fingers getting on to the print or the mat.
Thank you! So helpful! :-)
Congratulations great work which the format of the photo
I started off looking up Skrillex, and I ended up here. Nice video
Hi Colin, actually I've never had to remove filmoplast from a print. That's because once I've made my prints I sell them and then the customer deals with framing / mounting / re-hinging. I would ask your local frame shop this question or do a Google search for "removing filmoplast p90 fine art" and click on the result from Fine Art UK. Good luck and glad you like the vid!
Hi Angelica,
That second piece of tape is lined up flush with the edge of the print. With the longer piece of tape it does stick to the back of the print window from time to time. You could prevent this by sticking another piece of tape over the adhesive part of this tape. The longer piece of tape is then still able to move slightly side to side to allow the print to expand and contract. I've never used the corner method you describe but it sounds like the same ideas are involved. Good luck!
Lifesaver
hello,
thank you very much for this very useful video.
I just wanted to know what kind of glue you're using at the end.
thank you
audrey
Thank you for a very illuminating presentation. I have one question though: what type of pen do you use for writing on the back of the print and the lower right corner of the mat?
Haha, you are not alone! Unfortunately all I can say is that it's a process of trial and error since it will be very personal and unique for every artist. It took me years to figure out a display style that works for me. No matter what you choose though, I recommend you always use as archival of products as possible, and if you mat, use standard size mats. That will help your framing costs enormously. Good luck!
I'm not sure there's a 100% sure-fire way to prevent undulations, but here are some tips that have worked well for me:
1) Use a matte paper for printing. Without the reflections of glossy or lustre you won't be able to see the undulations
2) Seal the board and mat to the glass with a metal tape. It should create a humidity-constant bubble to help protect the print from external fluctuations.
I'm sure your local frame shop can provide some additional tips. Good luck!
Thank you very much for this Josh, it's really helpful. May I ask about the quality of pencil you use to sign the bard please? I'm in the UK.
When signing the back of the print does the ink ever show through on lighter prints?
You put it altogether for me! It was difficult to understand the brand name of tape you used, but I realize you aren't endorsing it. It would have given me a way to compare with others. But I see in the comments above that it is Filmoplast P-90. Is that correct? Thank you for your efforts in helping us.
Great video!! But how do you cut the matte to begin with? Where do you buy the matte cardboard? How did you get the square hole in the middle? Please do a video on where you purchase matting cardboard, the foam, etc., and how you cut it all to look like a picture frame. Thanks!
I assume the pen is also archival. I use a variety of pigment based pens, depending on the size of the print or if it is a giclee canvas.
I also sign the print, not the mat (or both depending.)
Great video, concise and to the point.
@JSinon1: A few things you can try to reduce wrinkling:
1) Hang the print somewhere where it's not subject to temperature and humidity fluctuations. These are the main causes of wrinkling
2) Use a matte or lustre finish instead of metallic or glossy. This will help make wrinkling less noticeable.
3) If all else fails, dry mount the print to the backing board. This will remove all wrinkles and is still (in theory) a reversible process if you need to remove the print.
Good luck!
First, I want to thank you for posting such a helpful video.
I couldn't find any information in the list of previous comments about the type of tape that you used in this presentation. I attempted to mount/mat some prints using this method and everything worked well with one major exception: the gummed, water-activated tape that I attempted to use causes the print to warp and buckle at the point where the hinge is attached.
What type of archival tape do you use for making hinges?
PS: the thing with signing the mat can cause some problems as far as if the person purchased just a matted print from you, they may want to remat it to even double or triple, then covering your signature. I once bought an artist/painter print signed on the mat while on a trip. By the time I got back home, the mat had a scratch in it. So if I replaced the mat myself, that meant I would lose the signature of the artist :-/ So now I have a matted/framed 8x10 with a scratched mat on my wall
Please, what thickness of foam-core are you using in the video? Yeah, I'm a newbie. Thanks!
Great video, I am wanting to frame some prints of mine. I've heard Filmoplast P-90 is reversible, but how do you get it off the print? I've heard you use a Q tip with water to remove the tape, but what technique do you use? If I have the tape face up taping the print to the mat do you just wipe the wet q tip over the tape to remove it? Wing the water ruin the print ? Thanks very much!
How do you stop the tape from leaving a mark / indent on the print as when mount this way the tape eventually shows through even if its only slightly
Great video. Thanks for posting this, Josh. The issue I've had to deal with the most is keeping the print flat and not having it curl or almost buckle. Do you use T-hinges on just the top of the print? Is that enough to hold it in place? How much of the matte do you overlap the print with typically?
thanks for this, one of the best videos i've seen on archival mounting of images. I'd love to know why you mount onto foamboard rather than onto mount board? Also, presumably you put the finished products into cellophane wrappers to protect them - do you make your own or get them pre-made? Thanks, Chris
Very nice video Josh. As a new photographer looking to frame my photos, one area of post production that I cannot seem to find is how do artists go about choosing the print paper, color and width/height of the matting, width/height, color and thickness of the frame, to put under glass or not and even the proper way to light your artwork (eg. angle of light 30 degrees). Do you any have any recommendations on how you tackle these steps in dispalying your work? Any videos to cover this topic? THX
Ahhhhh!! I know you put that it is a few years old and you have learnt some things since but the pen! Maybe put another annotation to use an archival pen or lead pencil depending on the texture of the paper? (on the back of the print that is)
Good call!
@EmsVision1 Any kind of acid free pen should be fine. I use an acid free fine tip pen for the back of the print, and a paint-pen to sign the actual print
What is the best size for the mat border?
You are correct: the pen is totally archival.
Thanks for the comments!
@ChrisRRJones continued...
Yes, I bag each print in a cellophane bag. I get all my bags, mats, and mounting boards from a company called Clearbags. You can google them
Cheers!
@Earthframed : Haha, no. It's a black, gel-ink rollerball pen. I used to sign the mats with this, but then I realized that if the mat ever gets damaged, the person who owns the print will lose my signature. So now I sign on the front of the print with a silver, fine-tipped pain pen.
Very good info , quite logical actually I knew there had to be a way, hinge is it 👌 . My question. Is I have an original ( light water damage towards the edges )1950’sJapanese print (woodblock ) I would like to frame it & am thinking the method use could work. Do you think this archival tape,& foam board or a thinner backing board would work? I know because of the damage it is work a bit less( I purchased it knowing thus) but the colors etc. Were so beautiful& vibrant. I just want to do the best to preserve it correctly.
Thankyou ,, Jeannehushpupmom ( sorry I am not on Facebook or Twitter )
I have been mounting my photos almost the exact same way, but still have a problem with the print wrinkling to some degree. This is particularly noticeable with prints on metallic paper. Any tips for preventing, or at least greatly reducing the wrinkling?
Thanks
Is that a ballpoint pen you are signing your print with?
@lambertjohn1: You can buy a mat cutter and mats at a good art supply store. The mat cutter should come with instructions on exactly how to cut the mat to the size you want.
Even easier: buy pre-cut mats. I use a company called Clear Bags who has a great selection of pre-cut mats to fit standard size photos and frames. Hope that helps!
@spottedslinky: This method will work for any kind of art you want to mat in a conservation-safe method. Everything is archival and acid free, so it shouldn't do any damage to your art. Take care!
Thank you so much! It's a very useful, clear and pleasant explanation.
I would like to ask you for advise when the print of artwork on paper is a bit curled and wrinlked. Would you please share the link of the video in which you explain that too?
I also would like to ask you for advise when it comes to matting prints or artwork drawn on paper and leave it "floating" so that no part of the artwork itself gets covered by the mat window.
Many many thanks! I am really grateful. Take care and keep up with the good work and the beautiful photographies!
You're welcome. For prints that are a bit wrinkled or curled you should probably have a frame shop dry mount them. It's reversible, in theory....
To have artwork "floating" like you say I would make sure the artwork has a border, then you can simply size the mat window to me larger than the print area but smaller than the total paper size. Hope that helps!
Professional Photography Tips
Hello, and thank you for the reply.
My artworks cover the full surface of the paper sheet so there is no border left.
What to do in such cases? Paste the artwork onto a slightly larger sheet?
How to paste them together making sure not to harm the artwork?
(I mainly draw with graphic and acrylic markers on A3 160 grams paper, so rather thin.)
Thank you, I feel lucky for having found your channel.
Matt
SnowTigerr Hey Matt. Hmm, at this point you're getting a little beyond the realm of my expertise. I would contact your local frame shop or art supply store and ask their advice. Good luck! -Josh
Is the information written on the back in pencil or are you using a pen?
I just came across your video and found it very informative. Can you tell me the size of the photo and the mat and how thick foamcore you use? Also, what brand and color of matboard do you normally use? Thanks. I'm just trying to learn how to start matting my own photos.
Sorry, I just watched your video again and you state it's a 18x24 mat and 13x19 photo, and it appears to be 3/16" foamboard.
What type of pen did you get and where do you get your mat board and backing. I loved the video. Thank you for the tips.
Hi Alex, nowadays I use two kinds of pens: the first is a black, acid free pen called IdentiPen which I use to sign the back. Then on the front of the print I use a silver, acid free paint pen called Pen-Touch.
For standard print sizes I get my mats and backing from a company called Clear Bags. Cheers!
Where you get the matting...I do 13x19 prints too...can't seem to find the matting
You either cut it yourself with a matboard cutter or you can get one cut for you at any framing store. If you're going to be mounting a ton of prints, I usually order in bulk from Matboard Plus. They have a bunch of sizes of mats to choose from but you can customize the size of the opening.
ha, I was going to mention changing from foamcore to backing board to you :) I also get mine from clearbags. I used to use a thinner backing board also from clearbags, but when transporting to shows, had to also include the foamcore. It takes up a lot of room in my print bins at shows, also making the boxes I carry the batch of about 30 or so each box extremely heavy. It now costs me less to use the more expensive heavier backing board alone, than it did the thin board plus the foamcore :)
Hey Audrey,
It's nothing super special: it's a glue I buy at Office Max. Made by 3M, it's simply called Clear Glue and has a little note on the package about it being "photo safe."
What kind of pen did you use? I would never use a pen. Pencil maybe.
Where is the video for curled prints?
Could you just sandwich them between two pieces of foam core and weight it until it begins to lay flat?
Did you bet a pre cut mat frame? or did you cut it yourself?
Pre-cut. I used to cut mats myself to save money, but the trade off is that they weren't as good as the pre-cut ones plus it took so much time!
Josh Cripps Where do you get them? (if you don't mind sharing) I've been looking for a good place
***** Hi Matthew, sorry for the delay in responding. Sometimes I don't see all the comments. Check out Clear Bags or Matboard and More.
So you tape underneath the print? with double sided tape? I am matting realistic drawings of mine. So I am figuring out how to professionally mat a picture.
The best thing to do is to leave a border around the edge of the print so you can tape underneath that. Good luck!
ok thanks!
marie Jones Marie, it's SINGLE sided tape. One faces up, attached to the back of the print only. The other faces down attached to the exposed sticky side of the first piece and the mount board. Please do yourself a favor and seek other sources of mounting information before beginning.
Josh Cripps
What to do when the artist has "forgotten" to leave a border around the edge of the print and you still want to frame it without having the mat window cover any part of the picture? thanks!
Can anybody advice any proper technique to mat an antique print without any kinds of tapes!?
There is a type of tape that has a plastic top. The plastic hangs over the tape on one side so it can be trimmed to a size that is not visible inside the mat cutout. You lay the tape at the edge bide (not on top) of your print in at least two places on each side. It adheres to the foam core and your print is gently held in place by the lightly overhanging plastic strips. But I don't actually know where you would buy it...I've just seen it used in a frame shop.
I went online and found it in a framing supplies shop. It is called see through mounting strips. It comes in strips instead of a roll and it uses mylar for the see through label. Where I saw it used it held the art at the edges like a border so it didn't slide around and then was sandwiched with the art between the backing board and the mat. If you ever wanted to change it you could removed the mat and simply slip the art out from the tiny plastic edge holders
6
Can you subtitle the video? Deaf people like myself would like to be able to watch this video and learn :)
Hmm, great suggestion! I'm not sure when I will have time to do this but I'll try to get it done soon!
Hi chelle snail, I just finished adding the subtitles / closed captions. Enjoy!
Josh Cripps I tried, turned the captions on but sorry it is the automated captioning which is crap! You didnt actually caption it yourself!! Please dont pretend you did it yourself. Do you have any idea what the automated captioning is actually doing? A hearing friend told me they are inaccurate and I am seeing political crap sprouted from the automated stuff instead of what you are actually saying. You should test it yoursef, you will be surprised and not impressed.
chelle snail Just check the CC. It's hilariously off the chart inaccurate, but I can imagine it's not so funny for people that rely on the captions to learn from videos.
Neon Us All I have, lol it's unbelievable! The people who make the automated captioning system need to work on it more
If you want to archive your prints, don't frame them. Keep them in a cool, dark, dry place. You can display prints in such a manner that ensures longevity, but to use the words "archive" is not really in line with framing a print.
Nonsense. People, sign your print wherever you want to. It's your choice, your aesthetic.
Also, do not add a copyright symbol. Do not write the title of the print. dating it is ok but its not necessary and should be done on the back of the print. oh yeah, ALWAYS wear white cotton gloves when handling mat board or your prints. The oils on your hands are not archival. You can buy them at any one of a hundred different art supply stores. Light Impressions is a great place to get them. One last thing, don't use foam core when matting pictures.
Since your telling them to sign it anywhere they want, why not tell them to sign it right in the middle of the print. Would be just as ridiculous of an idea as signing the mat board. The internet never ceases to amuse.
You tell people to use an archival pen to sign the print on the back, and you are using a Pilot gel pen (not archival), nor you are using the cotton gloves you recommend. Be consistent.
I agree, and the hinge method is as he said for a bordered print, here since it is borderless, he can use small acid free corners L shaped to make sure this invaluable print does not come in touch with the damn adhesive he slapped on the back, IF HE is to use the hinge method it will be better off using the Japanese tape with wheat starch that is totally natural and has no damn adhesives even if it is "archival" tape.