Prepping metal moulds for a glass kiln
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- In this video we show you how we prepare our metal moulds for slumping in our glass kiln. We use stainless steel moulds and paint them with boron nitride. Using a paintbrush to apply it rather than using the supplied spray nozzle. Applying it with a brush uses less product, avoids overspray and avoids any risks of breathing in the chemical suspended in the air.
We talk you through how to prepare a new mould and how and when to re-coat an existing metal mould once the boron nitride coating has started to wear off.
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How do you prepare your metal moulds for glass slumping?
I apply the liquid Boron Nitride using an air brush over a downdraft ventilation system, thus no need for masking up. I also rely heavily on a heat gun which I use to pre-heat the ss mold. It allows the BN to dry almost immediately and I can continue to coat as necessary. The extra fine spray of the liquid applies quite evenly with no brush marks, and uses very little of the product, unlike the spray can method. Plus it's a lot cheaper than the spray can. I've also switched to using the same method on my ceramic molds and have been very pleased with the results. I get many firings from a mold without having to re-coat as long as I take care with them.
@@blenderbenderguy thank you for that. Great to know and hear of alternative ways to apply BN.
Thank you! I didn't know i could get this as a brush on coat!!! Love alllnour tutorials!!! Thank you for your love of glass and love of teaching us!!
You are so welcome!
Thanks for the tip! I usually use thin fiber paper and it works also perfect!
No problems.
Well, glad i saw this!! Not buying spray any longer... will buy the liquid. THANK YOU!! Thats a huge savings :) I need to come visit you next time Im in the UK... Love watching your videos :)
Thank you Stephen for watching. It is a big saving for sure! Plus saves all that overspray and mess, we used to have white patches all over the place from overspray. We would love to see you when you are next in the UK for sure. Let us know beforehand so we can arrange to be available.
I'm just editing our next video on making glass dots!
Thank you so much. You are a great teacher. Meg from Amersham
Thank you 😊
Wonderful video- thank you! Very economical using the brush instead of spraying and more control. Thank you! (did I say that already ? :) Much appreciative to you both for taking the time to record great informative and instructional helpful videos!
Glad it was helpful!
I have used it and pump sprayed it on, lots of waste and over spray..to the brush from now on! Thank you L
Thank you. Very glad I found you. I so enjoy your videos.
That’s great to hear, thank you.
Thank you nice to know
Thanks for watching.
Thank you, very informative. I’ve used kiln wash before and heated the mould before applying but I prefer your method as it is more straightforward and wastes less product.
Yes it's been a learning curve for us too, we used to kiln wash and use spray. This way does use less product and it's way quicker without compromising results.
I use bullseye kiln wash. Works perfectly fine and cheaper. Can be tricky to apply. Same process though. Clean SS heat and apply a few coats. Mine have lasted months.
Thank you for sharing, always good to get alternative ways of doing things.
Hello, I love your channel. Could you do a video showing how to use the square, flat, mould you say is for Christmas decorations. Thank you for sharing. Regards
Hi June thank you for subscribing and watching. No problems on the request, we will add that to our to-do list of videos. Great suggestion, thank you.
thanks for this video, i bought 12 over flow(it is what they are called in the Bar and Restaurant world) floral formers for a fraction of the cost. SS. They were too tall for my kiln so husband cut them shorter. Had hard time getting the kiln wash to stick. many said to sand them then put them in the oven at 250 Degrees. I did and that then made thick kiln wash. Got all 45 tealight holders fired. But ive noticed that u dont do any of that. never heard of using isopropyl alcohol. and i think that zyp would be something i would love working with!
Zyp is certainly worth a try. I guess it's finding out what works for you.
I am loving your videos! Do you have a tip for when it does bead up on the surface?
Thank you for watching and we're pleased to hear you love what we're doing. We've only just started our UA-cam channel so great to hear it's liked and well received.
We found that the cheaper metal moulds tends to bead more often. With our current supplier that does not happen at all. It's important to make sure the mould is clean and free from grease, finger prints etc as that will cause beading. If it does bead then our only method is to do multiple coats until the boron nitride sticks. Easier doing this with a brush rather than spraying.
Thanks for your really useful videos 😊 I’d kind of dismissed ZYP as out of my budget, but this video made me reconsider. I notice there is a brushable version of ZYP BN for sale on creative glass guild for much less than the spray bottle you use. Is that the same product, so could I use it instead? Many thanks
It's the same product.
I just found this video and think it's a great idea, but was wondering; could this method be applied to kiln shelves and ceramic molds as well as metal molds?
Yes, absolutely
I tend to get alot of residue on my tea light...nothing get it gone..tried several limescale, vinegar solutions. Using spray also...sm I I firing too long or high?
Difficult to answer without knowing your firing schedule. We use the basic slump schedule from Warm Glass with a little tweak. All kilns fire differently, and in our Hobby and Cub fuser we change the top process temperature to 665 Degrees Centigrade. We get a little residue, but it's easily removed with water. Make sure that your moulds are thinly coated which will reduce transfer.
Thank you that’s nice to know
You're welcome
Hi, I painted on the zyp using a foam brush. I thought it was dry . After firing the glass there is a bit of residue left on the glass in a few places. Would that happen if not dry? Any ideas how to remove it?
Thanks!
Hmm not sure. Are sure it’s zyp residue. Unusual to hear about this.
Thank you so much, this was so useful! I have ordered some moulds from Paul and will follow your advice regarding the boron nitride… Where is the best place to buy it? Please can you suggest anywhere?😊
We get ours from warm glass.
1. How do you wash the brush?
2. When you reapplied ia previously coved mold but the “flakes” get into the liquid and contaminate it?
Thanks for the video I thought it was great.
Thanks for watching. I let the brush air dry and shake it off into the bin before using it again. You can wash it off in cold water after use if you wanted to. I've not had flaking of moulds so never had an issue of adding more wash over the top of existing.
is this the same process for the ceramic based molds for glass?
Hi, thanks for watching. Same process different product. You would use kiln wash instead.
Hi, I have been using boron nitride (which you have been using on metal molds) on a ceramic bottle mold and it has stuck to the glass and also to the mold. Impossible to remove. Can you tell me why? Thank you.
Boron nitride should not be used on ceramic moulds use kiln wash. As you've found out it does not work.
If you have a mold that u got that was coated, but you are not sure if it is kiln wash or biron nitrate, what should you do when you need to recoat them?
Just wash it clean and start again.
@@FiredGlass Thank Youi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for the informative video. What kind of brush are you using? Also, is it natural fiber or synthetic?
Any old wide flat paintbrush works well.
Thank you ☺️
Did you fire the stainless steel before applying the boron?
No, just degrease it with some household kitchen cleaner on first use. Then apply the boron
Beginner here- can metal cookie cutters (zyp-ed) work when filled with glass frit, medium size to create a flat piece in the cookie cutter shapes?
Yes you can, they must be a good quality metal, steel or stainless ideally. Prep the mould as per the video. If you go thick remember to adjust your firing schedule to account for the annealing time to prevent shattering of the glass.
Thanks!!!