Interestingly Cessna 150/172 sort of uses the same vent system, but they have a tube that extends below the wing right over the strut so if it drip fuel it runs down the strut. the vent line also is bent forward to help pressurize the tank. I remember having to make sure when Fueling our Cessna 150 before parking, we had to leave the fuel 2 inches down to keep it from dripping out when it expanded. we topped off before flight.
for your sender covers check out hydroforming using a grease gun tor the pleasure and medial very controllable and with a little time fixturing makes a super smooth part. Dave again
Hello Captain Boeing ;) I have enjoyed your video and I'am very impressed about you skills and creative mind to put things together!! My thoughts where to use two Fuel senders (in total four) but maybe that is a crazy idea. Also I see your inside corrosion protection. It's so nice to see and looks (and of course it is !!) very professional. What are you using for this and have you paint it first and than clicked together? Or painted after. Sorry for my English Greetings from the Netherlands and I wish you many happy take offs but more then that happy and save landings!! Bye Bye !!
Wow, so cleaver! Doing same as you :) By the time we're done, our planes are going to be more Van's than Zenith... After we remove all the Wal mart parts in them :)
I definitely prefer top-mount with access panels, for the reasons you outlined. I'm a big fan of "sticking to the plans," but there are some places where deviation is warranted. Access panels (in various places), or at least ones with riveted nut plates, being a few of my deviations.
Great videos Mark. I know it’s been a long time since you made this video, but do you recall if you used a gasket with the senders, or only pro seal? I can’t tell in the video. Thanks
cashed a sender problem until it drove us nuts. different senders and all wiring checks many times. would work in open air but not in the tank. turned out to be a grounding problem. with the gaskets and gasketed screws the screw holding the ground terminal was isolated. took days to figure out. solution is I welded a spade terminal direct to the sender body.(very carefully with a tig). and while we were resolving the first one the other become intermitted also so modified both. a strange but real problem. hope you do something to eliminate this problem. his didn't show until wings were skinned but fortunately were able to reach them thru an existing access hole in the bottom of the wing. lots of skin and blood before got it resolved but solid now like your vids Dave
@@KitplaneEnthusiast I was at the EAA Kermit Weeks hanger and a Zenith was there and I was inspecting it and couldn't find the fuel sumps so I just had to ask, I find that I learn something new more often with curiosity.
Great video and thanks for taking the extra time to document this. I'm guessing that making, editing, and posting this video greatly added to the time needed to complete this fuel sender installation (maybe 2x, 3x, or more?). Us subscribers appreciate that! It seems pairing a Bingo Liquid Detector from Belite Aircraft with a standard float-based fuel sender could be very useful. The Bingo Liquid Detector could be located at a defined point to accurately identify a threshold volume of fuel remaining. Without CAD data to determine a design location/height for a given volume of remaining fuel, the installation of the Bingo Liquid Detector would be a bit of a guess. However, after installation a builder would be able to determine and record the remaining volume at which the Bingo Liquid Detector lights up. That'd provide an accurate snapshot of fuel left in each tank. Here's a link... www.beliteaircraftstore.com/bingo-liquid-detector/ I've never used this item nor do I have any connection to Belite Aircraft, but it looks like it could be a pretty useful instrument.
ahhh! I found what your talking about on the prior page of the plans. One has to look very closely! I like what you did with the mounting to the sender on the top of the tank. I plan to do the same. Thanks for making these videos, they are very helpful.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast perhaps I compared plastic vs steel but in this case its aluminum so not sure about that. But in general plastic doesn't rupture easily therefore more safe. But in a fire environment it can melt and then....
I am a vans builder. This is a great video. Thanks for the content.
thank you for making these awesome videos. It is my dream to design and build my own airplane and your videos are very informational and fun to watch.
Interestingly Cessna 150/172 sort of uses the same vent system, but they have a tube that extends below the wing right over the strut so if it drip fuel it runs down the strut. the vent line also is bent forward to help pressurize the tank. I remember having to make sure when Fueling our Cessna 150 before parking, we had to leave the fuel 2 inches down to keep it from dripping out when it expanded. we topped off before flight.
for your sender covers check out hydroforming using a grease gun tor the pleasure and medial very controllable and with a little time fixturing makes a super smooth part. Dave again
Hello Captain Boeing ;) I have enjoyed your video and I'am very impressed about you skills and creative mind to put things together!! My thoughts where to use two Fuel senders (in total four) but maybe that is a crazy idea. Also I see your inside corrosion protection. It's so nice to see and looks (and of course it is !!) very professional. What are you using for this and have you paint it first and than clicked together? Or painted after. Sorry for my English Greetings from the Netherlands and I wish you many happy take offs but more then that happy and save landings!! Bye Bye !!
Thank you for taking the time to respond and I wish you good luck to finish your project. Kind regards,
Wow, so cleaver! Doing same as you :)
By the time we're done, our planes are going to be more Van's than Zenith... After we remove all the Wal mart parts in them :)
Nice job, Mark! I will probably copy your method.
I definitely prefer top-mount with access panels, for the reasons you outlined. I'm a big fan of "sticking to the plans," but there are some places where deviation is warranted. Access panels (in various places), or at least ones with riveted nut plates, being a few of my deviations.
Great videos Mark. I know it’s been a long time since you made this video, but do you recall if you used a gasket with the senders, or only pro seal? I can’t tell in the video. Thanks
You’re right it’s been a while, but im pretty sure I did not use the rubber gasket and just used the Pro-Seal.
cashed a sender problem until it drove us nuts. different senders and all wiring checks many times. would work in open air but not in the tank. turned out to be a grounding problem. with the gaskets and gasketed screws the screw holding the ground terminal was isolated. took days to figure out. solution is I welded a spade terminal direct to the sender body.(very carefully with a tig). and while we were resolving the first one the other become intermitted also so modified both. a strange but real problem. hope you do something to eliminate this problem. his didn't show until wings were skinned but fortunately were able to reach them thru an existing access hole in the bottom of the wing. lots of skin and blood before got it resolved but solid now like your vids Dave
floating grounds can be a nightmare to hunt down.
ps sorry meant to a screw head as that would ground thru the inner ring. discussed welding direct to the sender but used the screw instead.
Where do you sump the tank to test for H2O or are there any? Great work you really do great work.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast I was at the EAA Kermit Weeks hanger and a Zenith was there and I was inspecting it and couldn't find the fuel sumps so I just had to ask, I find that I learn something new more often with curiosity.
Any pics or info on how you permanently capped the original fuel sender hole ??
One question, what tool was used to make the upward lip on the edge of the hole. Thank you for what you do.
Thank you for the reply. I assume an illusion due to the light on the sanded surface.
Great video and thanks for taking the extra time to document this. I'm guessing that making, editing, and posting this video greatly added to the time needed to complete this fuel sender installation (maybe 2x, 3x, or more?). Us subscribers appreciate that!
It seems pairing a Bingo Liquid Detector from Belite Aircraft with a standard float-based fuel sender could be very useful. The Bingo Liquid Detector could be located at a defined point to accurately identify a threshold volume of fuel remaining. Without CAD data to determine a design location/height for a given volume of remaining fuel, the installation of the Bingo Liquid Detector would be a bit of a guess. However, after installation a builder would be able to determine and record the remaining volume at which the Bingo Liquid Detector lights up. That'd provide an accurate snapshot of fuel left in each tank.
Here's a link... www.beliteaircraftstore.com/bingo-liquid-detector/
I've never used this item nor do I have any connection to Belite Aircraft, but it looks like it could be a pretty useful instrument.
Vans uses 2 different senders, r/h, l/h did you use the same part number for both sides? or did you get the r/h and l/h sender.
I actually don't remember, but I would guess that I bought a left and a right.
I wonder why they are called senders and not fuel level-meters or something like that
ummm. Isn't that a quick drain hole...not a vent tube? Just going off the plans, it looks like you plugged the quick drain hole not a vent tube hole.
ummm...looks like you better keep studying those plans! LOL
ahhh! I found what your talking about on the prior page of the plans. One has to look very closely! I like what you did with the mounting to the sender on the top of the tank. I plan to do the same. Thanks for making these videos, they are very helpful.
Isnt using a plastic tank more safe? Or is it not common in kit planes to use a plastic tank?
@@KitplaneEnthusiast perhaps I compared plastic vs steel but in this case its aluminum so not sure about that. But in general plastic doesn't rupture easily therefore more safe. But in a fire environment it can melt and then....