Your attention to detail is greatly appreciated. I'm working on my confidence in taking on a CH750 project and your videos have sealed the deal. Not because you make it look easy, but because you present details that a novice, like myself, can fully comprehend when working through decisions during the build process.
When I sealed my RANS tank fuel filler, I put masking tape around the perimeter of where I was prosealing. It made for a much nicer look and kept me from getting pro seal where I didn’t want it.
Even though hole saws are a little pricey, the safety factor makes them worth the investment. You can then drill a large hole in sheet metal with relative safety. It still can be tricky in thin sheet metal as the saw can grab as one side breaks through first, but still much less hazardous than a fly cutter.
The way you've mounted them, i don't think it will matter, but the white plastic on the zenith senders will crumble away if they are under fuel. At least mine did.
My factory build 601xlb SLSA has the senders mounted on the top of the tank with access plates. I’ve had to change the sender gaskets for them leaking so yeah on top is definitely the better location.
There wasn’t enough room between the top of the tank and the skin to add the nut plates. The rivets I used are very small and soft aluminum so they would be easy to remove if I ever had to.
Having had to remove my tanks to replace a fuel sender already once, I can say that was one of my least favorite experiences of my life. Luckily I have an RV14 so I can remove my tanks without removing the wings. My only concern for you is that I would be weary of any chips falling into my tanks while drilling out the pop rivets. How are you going to ensure your tanks are clear of chips or are you planning on just relying on the fuel filter to catch those?
@@KitplaneEnthusiast My mistake, I do not completely understand the construction of your tanks. I assumed that top skin of your wing was also the top of your tanks (like they are in RV's) which meant I thought those pop rivets that hold the dome in place would be directly over the senders. Ignore me ;)
You can change a fuel sender through that hole, but if you have a chance put them in the top. The originals in my plane leaked in less than a year at the plastic center piece. I had my wings done before Mark posted this.
How often do you have to change out a fuel sender unit in the life of the plane? As an auto mechanic for 45 years +, I have only had to change out a sender unit 3 times in my career.
Any design change that makes future maintenance and repair work easier, is a great idea.
Yes. That is ridiculous to bury a component that will fail somewhere with no access.
Your attention to detail is greatly appreciated. I'm working on my confidence in taking on a CH750 project and your videos have sealed the deal. Not because you make it look easy, but because you present details that a novice, like myself, can fully comprehend when working through decisions during the build process.
Just as good the second time as it was the first! Thanks for the excellent quality videos and sound.
When I sealed my RANS tank fuel filler, I put masking tape around the perimeter of where I was prosealing. It made for a much nicer look and kept me from getting pro seal where I didn’t want it.
Even though hole saws are a little pricey, the safety factor makes them worth the investment. You can then drill a large hole in sheet metal with relative safety. It still can be tricky in thin sheet metal as the saw can grab as one side breaks through first, but still much less hazardous than a fly cutter.
Wish I had seen this before installing my senders...thanks Mark.
The way you've mounted them, i don't think it will matter, but the white plastic on the zenith senders will crumble away if they are under fuel. At least mine did.
My factory build 601xlb SLSA has the senders mounted on the top of the tank with access plates. I’ve had to change the sender gaskets for them leaking so yeah on top is definitely the better location.
I installed 4 new senders on my 801. Didn't use any proseal. I got some new screws with rubber washers installed. No leaks at all.
Awesome! I hope the rubber washers never break down and leak.
Me Too
Why not nut plates instead of rivets on the top skin?
Steve
N902AL - Flyting CH650
There wasn’t enough room between the top of the tank and the skin to add the nut plates. The rivets I used are very small and soft aluminum so they would be easy to remove if I ever had to.
Having had to remove my tanks to replace a fuel sender already once, I can say that was one of my least favorite experiences of my life. Luckily I have an RV14 so I can remove my tanks without removing the wings. My only concern for you is that I would be weary of any chips falling into my tanks while drilling out the pop rivets. How are you going to ensure your tanks are clear of chips or are you planning on just relying on the fuel filter to catch those?
How about you explain in detail which pop rivets I’d be drilling out that would put chips in the tank?
@@KitplaneEnthusiast My mistake, I do not completely understand the construction of your tanks. I assumed that top skin of your wing was also the top of your tanks (like they are in RV's) which meant I thought those pop rivets that hold the dome in place would be directly over the senders. Ignore me ;)
You can change a fuel sender through that hole, but if you have a chance put them in the top. The originals in my plane leaked in less than a year at the plastic center piece. I had my wings done before Mark posted this.
Same here! I didn't build the plane, but I fervently wish the senders had been top mounted.
How often do you have to change out a fuel sender unit in the life of the plane? As an auto mechanic for 45 years +, I have only had to change out a sender unit 3 times in my career.
Hopefully never, but these are really cheap senders and may be prone to malfunction or leak.
G,day Mark from Sydney Australia. Don't forget the use of a magnet in the tank.
🕳️🧲
What does the magnet do?