Honestly, mate, thank you. Every single time I need to know something it's your videos that have all the expert information and walk-through. I really appreciate all this work and experience you have shared!
I have only just found this channel today and have spent all afternoon watching many videos and making lot's of notes!! I have owned four different camper vans over the years but after a long divorce period I really must get back into the 'Van' camping scene again. I think that the van itself is actually most important so I am at present looking for a really good 'doner van' to convert myself over the Winter months. This guy presenting is really good and I will certainly be taking all of the advice - If I get stuck I would be more than happy to take my van to his business for some professional work. Thanks
Your videos are so incredibly helpful! Some videos/tutorials go so fast, or assume that you already know everything they are talking about. I really appreciate the way you walk through things step by step, and explain what you are doing in each section. It's so much like getting to be there with you and walk through the process with you, and really get a feel for what's going on to be able to learn . Thanks for doing these 😊
Thank you for the kind words, I'm so glad you have found the videos helpful. I'd love to see your work so if you post the pics on social media be sure to tag us @combe_valley_campers :)
Excellent step by step tutorial, very clear and easy to follow . Thank you for all the work that went into this video its much appreciated This van lining is continuous and so 3.6mm ply thickness is adequate but what thickness of ply would you use for isolated panels where the carpet lining is folded around the edges of the panels . 3mm or 6mm I am going to fit a ribbed carpet lining which although 4 x way stretch is thicker and less giving than plain carpet . Would adhesive be sufficient to hold the carpet on the back of the panel edges or would you recommend staples?
These videos are brill, looking to buy a transporter next year so researching at the moment, what would be the sequence from converting a panel van to a camper van? e.g. would it be sound deadening, then electrics, etc.
Very helpful! Do you think that it's necessary to add wood to my van if I made the full isolation with 2cm of Armaflex? I would like to put the carpet directly on the isolation
Why avoid double thickness of metal ? It can be drilled for a pilot hole and then you have twice the substrate thickness to grip the screw. Just saying ! Lol Happy travels everyone. John
Awesome videos pal. Just a joy to watch and learn. One thing please. Sorry if this has been answered before but? I.m about to ply I'm about to re ply the floor In my works van. I'd like to deaden before hand. What would be best to do so with plus? Can I just lay over the complete floor or do I need to trim to keep the raised spars clear? Any advice would be well received thanks 👍
Hi Dez we lay over the whole floor if we are screwingvthe floor down if you are bondingvthe floor, leave the mating surface free of deadmat duo. Cheers for the kind words. Leigh
Awww dude. Cheers for the swift reply. I did find your other video fitting the Duo mat. Think that's the system I'm gona use. Fair play your content is so very well done. All the very best guys 👋👋👋
Firstly thanks for all the videos guys, I’m about to tackle my first conversion on a SWB T6 Kombi using your videos for reference. Regarding the ply lining, I was going to buy through custom shop designs but not sure if I need the hidden fixing option or the standard vw clips? Don’t I just want to screw my lining to the metal work for the best smooth finish?
Great videos... thank you!!! I too was wondering about screws and not really the length but the thickness, thread type and head type. Please confirm that you do NOT use self tappers and if that's true... do you recommend against? Also it looks to me like you were using more of a wood screw (wider threads) as opposed to a sheet metal type (tight threads) which I doubt is correct... right? Thanks!!!
What would you do if the van had glass in the back panels? I've been advised to just spray them black on the inside and insulate the same as metal? I thought of putting metal sheet in but people on forums are saying it's a bad idea hard to fix in even if just tack weld as it will distort?
Is the 3.6mm ply used for the wall the normal ply thickness to use. Currently looking to order some from your recommended site and wondering what difference thicker ply might be and which i should go for? Many thanks
Brilliant video thank you am converting a ford transit and an now ready to line it would you advise fixing battens to the van first? and what thickness of plywood wood would you recommend. Any advice would be great.
Hi I'm doing a full conversion with kitchen etc, my van has pvc panels installed, can I keep these or would you recommend replacing with ply? Also I have a high roof T30 would you sound deaden all of the roof then insulate and veltrim all directly onto the interior roof?
As stated in the video, and description, we did not carry out the insulation on this vehicle. Plus the customer stipulated that they didn't want any further work doing
Great video, really helpful. I didn't catch what size screws you're using? Are they self drilling / self tapping? What size pilot hole are you making for the screw you're using?
Generally as small as screw as possible to get through the material(s) you choose to attach to the walls, and so not to reach the outside walls of the vehicle. A pilot holes were generally made with a 2mm bit. Hope that helps
@@CombeValleyCampers Great videos... thank you!!! I too was wondering about screws and not really the length but the thickness, thread type and head type. Please confirm that you do NOT use self tappers and if that's true... do you recommend against? Also it looked to me like you were using more of a wood screw (wider threads) as opposed to a sheet metal type (tight threads) which I doubt is correct... right? Thanks!!!
Thanks for the comments Wills. In this instance the aim was to key the surface and remove any extra material that was still on the surface. I would reccomend a Carmel wheel if I wanted 100% of the glue off and i didn't want to mark the paint.
I just took my Ply panels off my New Proace van and noticed where little bits of the metal fall down from the screw self tappers they start small dots of rust in the bottom of the door drain out? Do you know a good product i could treat the little areas with , Thanks.
Combe Valley Campers not to mention rules of thumb like 8mm is 5/16ths with clearance or 13mm is perfect for drilling softer metal to tap at 9/16ths ...
The British use what's easier for each task. I am a English carpenter, taught in both metric AND imperial. Inches for approximate, millimetres for accuracy
Hi Combe Valley Campers! Would you recommend 3.6mm or 6mm thick ply wall panels for a Ford Transit Custom I'm converting? I'm thinking 3.6mm as it will be ore flexible when fitting? I'm not proposing to fit anything like a kitchen or shelving etc. to the panels so they don't need to be strong. Cheer!
Hi, where can I purchase the panels for my 2011 Vivaro LWB van? I stripped it out last week and got rid of all the factory fitted panels! Just need rear panels for both sides to cover the insulation etc.. thanks in advance and keep the videos coming, really helpful ...
Hi Buggs, thanks for the comments. If you read the description you'll notice I've mentioned the sound deadening and insulation in this van was installed by the owner. Please see our other video for a comprehensive review of sound deadening and insulation!
Just screwing self-tapping screws into the bodywork is idiotic. The way to attach things to the walls is called Rivnuts, or specifically what the Americans call Plusnuts or crossnuts that have a pullout strength of hundreds of kilos. It also doesn't savage the metal or create areas where rust can start proliferating.
Hi Croft, Thank you for your comments. To increase my knowledge I'd love to see pics of how you have installed 3.6mm ply panels into your van with rivnuts. Can you show me also where you have cleanly drilled a rivnut hole which won't rust as opposed to a 2mm hole for a screw. Regards, Leigh
@@CombeValleyCampers In all honesty I haven't. I'm still in scrimping and saving mode. But others have done it quite successfully, it's a bit challenging to line up holes with bolts through the panels but there are tricks (like putting sharp bolts in the rivnut threads, pushing the panel up to it, and then drilling where there are marks). I even saw some people use the pre-drilled holes that are in many vans, Sprinters for instance have tons of them along the walls, but the people who drill into the ribs to make new holes paint the exposed surfaces in the 10 mm or whatever hole after drilling it. The Plusnuts just clamp to the metal, they don't penetrate the paint. Anyway, these guys have a good page on the topic: faroutride.com/crossnut/ - Plusnuts are great for a lot of things. I recall seeing some guy drive three giant self tapping screws into his van ribs to hang a hammock from and those just ripped clean (or not so clean) out. A single plusnut can support 500+ kilos in pullout strength (in sufficiently sturdy steel).
Hi, currently using rivnuts to fit my ply pannels. Ideally would have used trim clips but with all the layers of carpet and 6mm ply that wasnt going to work. Have to say so far its been a right pain. Will see if its worth it and what the end result looks like. Obviously trim clips or rivnuts will leave a visible fixing on the outside. Not massively keen on permanently fixing ply with self tapping screws (into bodywork) and carpeting over. But it does look neat when done well and much much quicker. 🤔
@@Nick-po4qp Sure. Plusnuts do take more planning and more work, even with a tool to fix them to the hole - especially if you have to first carefully drill the hole (with some device on the drill to make sure it doesn't go to "deep" and punch through the side of the van...) and paint the edges. And then making holes in the panels themselves in the right position so you can bolt them down. But if you do all that you have something that's rust-resistant, much stronger and you can easily mount or unmount your wall panels (or furniture, that too should be bolted down to the van properly) an almost unlimited amount of times if need be.
@@lorcro2000 Idiotic is a bit strong...don't you think ? This is screw fixing is a very common and tested process. Rivnuts cause more damage to the bodywork. They are easy to mess up even when you're used to working with them (I use riv nuts on certain applications but not boards to metal : btw I never screw boards to metal either) Different fixing methods have pros and cons including the amount of time the fitter has to bill you for. ...let's not forget the customer has a budget in mind. I realise from your post you are theorising having never done it yourself but seriously Croft ....Idiotic ? Watch and learn. That's what you came here for Happy travels everyone. John
Are you not aware music is acquired taste ? what ever you have to offer or share ...oh well ... I could do without listening so ... to each their own ..
Honestly, mate, thank you. Every single time I need to know something it's your videos that have all the expert information and walk-through. I really appreciate all this work and experience you have shared!
I have only just found this channel today and have spent all afternoon watching many videos and making lot's of notes!! I have owned four different camper vans over the years but after a long divorce period I really must get back into the 'Van' camping scene again. I think that the van itself is actually most important so I am at present looking for a really good 'doner van' to convert myself over the Winter months. This guy presenting is really good and I will certainly be taking all of the advice - If I get stuck I would be more than happy to take my van to his business for some professional work. Thanks
You may be pleased to hear that I am now addicted to your videos.
Absolutely brilliant explanations of the processes !
Very helpful, thanks for your efforts. I'm learning some valuable lessons for my camper build 🤙
I am impressed by your attention to detail great job
Great attention to detail. Just my 2p worth, but l would get some waxoyl etc into areas before they are panelled over.
I CAN ONLY DREAM OF HAVING LIKE THIS 🌀 MOST EXCELLENT ✔️ 🦅
Your videos are so incredibly helpful! Some videos/tutorials go so fast, or assume that you already know everything they are talking about. I really appreciate the way you walk through things step by step, and explain what you are doing in each section. It's so much like getting to be there with you and walk through the process with you, and really get a feel for what's going on to be able to learn . Thanks for doing these 😊
Thank you for such clear instructions. But what screws did you use to attach the plywood please?
Absolutely love your videos, we have followed them to the T and are so happy with the results! You’re awesome! Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words, I'm so glad you have found the videos helpful. I'd love to see your work so if you post the pics on social media be sure to tag us @combe_valley_campers :)
What thickness of plyboard would you recommend for a tradesmans van? Great videos as always!
Nice videos and tips, but how to mark and cut the panels to shape is the thing Id really like to know.
Cheers
Excellent step by step tutorial, very clear and easy to follow . Thank you for all the work that went into this video its much appreciated
This van lining is continuous and so 3.6mm ply thickness is adequate but what thickness of ply would you use for isolated panels where the carpet lining is folded around the edges of the panels . 3mm or 6mm
I am going to fit a ribbed carpet lining which although 4 x way stretch is thicker and less giving than plain carpet . Would adhesive be sufficient to hold the carpet on the back of the panel edges or would you recommend staples?
Hey Mate.
Don't know if anyone has mentioned using a caramel wheel to remove adhesive and similar. Easier & quicker than sandpaper. Cheers.
Another great video! Would love to see more T5 vids. Also if I can ask what layering system do CVC recommend and use for the flooring?
Great tips n tricks, ( question) why is the lower half of the panel not deadened/thermal panel and moisture barrier?
Hi, very handy tips and instructions. just one question is there any reason why you don't use self tapping screws?
Thanks
These videos are brill, looking to buy a transporter next year so researching at the moment, what would be the sequence from converting a panel van to a camper van? e.g. would it be sound deadening, then electrics, etc.
Love your vids. So helpful! Thank you.
Very helpful!
Do you think that it's necessary to add wood to my van if I made the full isolation with 2cm of Armaflex? I would like to put the carpet directly on the isolation
Thank you where do I find the next video of carpeting around the ply?
Thanks for the great vids - much appreciated. Just wondering why you don't ply right up to the ceiling to avoid the lip. Cheers.
How do you go about connecting the ceiling to the wall with the curved upper corners of the van, is what I'm having trouble with currently
great video
Why avoid double thickness of metal ? It can be drilled for a pilot hole and then you have twice the substrate thickness to grip the screw. Just saying ! Lol Happy travels everyone. John
Only as itll more likely grab and break your screw!
@@CombeValleyCampers Cheers for the reply.😎
What type of screws do we use to go through the ply then the metal on the van
Self tapping screws is what we are using on our van
What kind of screws/fixing did you use to fix the ply to the metal of the van?
Good video v helpful
Hello! Don’t you need to vapor barrier the all metal inside? Thank you!
Awesome videos pal. Just a joy to watch and learn. One thing please. Sorry if this has been answered before but? I.m about to ply I'm about to re ply the floor In my works van. I'd like to deaden before hand. What would be best to do so with plus? Can I just lay over the complete floor or do I need to trim to keep the raised spars clear? Any advice would be well received thanks 👍
Hi Dez we lay over the whole floor if we are screwingvthe floor down if you are bondingvthe floor, leave the mating surface free of deadmat duo. Cheers for the kind words. Leigh
Awww dude. Cheers for the swift reply. I did find your other video fitting the Duo mat. Think that's the system I'm gona use.
Fair play your content is so very well done. All the very best guys 👋👋👋
Great stuff 👍🏻
Thanks man, appreciate it
Did you leave a space between the panels for expansion?
Firstly thanks for all the videos guys, I’m about to tackle my first conversion on a SWB T6 Kombi using your videos for reference. Regarding the ply lining, I was going to buy through custom shop designs but not sure if I need the hidden fixing option or the standard vw clips? Don’t I just want to screw my lining to the metal work for the best smooth finish?
Hello, is there any reason you did not use Rivet nuts to attach the triplex panels to the Van? greeting.
great video, I got price of some lad, 11k for this job in MWB master :).
So what do I attach the plywood to? To wooden battens? And how do I attach wooden battens?
Great videos... thank you!!! I too was wondering about screws and not really the length but the thickness, thread type and head type. Please confirm that you do NOT use self tappers and if that's true... do you recommend against? Also it looks to me like you were using more of a wood screw (wider threads) as opposed to a sheet metal type (tight threads) which I doubt is correct... right? Thanks!!!
What would you do if the van had glass in the back panels? I've been advised to just spray them black on the inside and insulate the same as metal? I thought of putting metal sheet in but people on forums are saying it's a bad idea hard to fix in even if just tack weld as it will distort?
Is the 3.6mm ply used for the wall the normal ply thickness to use. Currently looking to order some from your recommended site and wondering what difference thicker ply might be and which i should go for? Many thanks
We generally fit a 3.6mm thickness as it flexes better, is lighter weight and total thickness, once carpeted, is that of the 6mm ply
@@CombeValleyCampers That's great, many thanks for your reply!!
What’s best for T5.1 3.6mm kit or 6mm kit?
Brilliant video thank you am converting a ford transit and an now ready to line it would you advise fixing battens to the van first? and what thickness of plywood wood would you recommend. Any advice would be great.
How is it going? I have just put a deposit on a Transit.
Hi I'm doing a full conversion with kitchen etc, my van has pvc panels installed, can I keep these or would you recommend replacing with ply? Also I have a high roof T30 would you sound deaden all of the roof then insulate and veltrim all directly onto the interior roof?
Great videos but why no thick insulation between the foil and ply ?
As stated in the video, and description, we did not carry out the insulation on this vehicle. Plus the customer stipulated that they didn't want any further work doing
@@CombeValleyCampers thanks for clarifying
Thanks for sharing appreciate it.
Great video, really helpful.
I didn't catch what size screws you're using? Are they self drilling / self tapping?
What size pilot hole are you making for the screw you're using?
Generally as small as screw as possible to get through the material(s) you choose to attach to the walls, and so not to reach the outside walls of the vehicle. A pilot holes were generally made with a 2mm bit. Hope that helps
@@CombeValleyCampers Great videos... thank you!!! I too was wondering about screws and not really the length but the thickness, thread type and head type. Please confirm that you do NOT use self tappers and if that's true... do you recommend against? Also it looked to me like you were using more of a wood screw (wider threads) as opposed to a sheet metal type (tight threads) which I doubt is correct... right? Thanks!!!
Thank you for your video. Great info. My van has a fixed double bed base. Would I need to remove this or is it possible to panel around the bed base?
Easiest to remove the bed base for complete access. You may be able to complete other jobs whilst it's out ;)
@@CombeValleyCampers Thank you
You want to use a Carmel wheel to remove adhesive not p80 lol!!
Thanks for the comments Wills. In this instance the aim was to key the surface and remove any extra material that was still on the surface. I would reccomend a Carmel wheel if I wanted 100% of the glue off and i didn't want to mark the paint.
Brush on a load of goo gone or spray on tar and glue remover - this should make the job a hell of a lot easier.
I just took my Ply panels off my New Proace van and noticed where little bits of the metal fall down from the screw self tappers they start small dots of rust in the bottom of the door drain out? Do you know a good product i could treat the little areas with , Thanks.
I use Jenolite Rust Remover. Not cheap but it goes a long way and works really well.
Nice vids and great tips...
I just laugh at Brits(son in law is a Brit) you guys use imperial measurements but 3mm drill bits! ;)
Yup, that's true. Luckily we have an unspoken rule that means we all understand both measurements but would only really like one!!
Combe Valley Campers not to mention rules of thumb like 8mm is 5/16ths with clearance or 13mm is perfect for drilling softer metal to tap at 9/16ths ...
The British use what's easier for each task.
I am a English carpenter, taught in both metric AND imperial.
Inches for approximate, millimetres for accuracy
Why didn't you run your wiring in BEFORE the walls???
My guess would be that if you need to access the wires you don't need to take everything apart
why not use self tappers into the metal?
In my experience, self tappers are good for a quick fix. Predrilling and using quality screw works better for me
Normally how thick ply you use for flooring?
12mm floor. Although we have used 9mm in the past
What? No insulation?
All listed in the description ;)
Hi Combe Valley Campers! Would you recommend 3.6mm or 6mm thick ply wall panels for a Ford Transit Custom I'm converting? I'm thinking 3.6mm as it will be ore flexible when fitting? I'm not proposing to fit anything like a kitchen or shelving etc. to the panels so they don't need to be strong. Cheer!
Yes 3.6mm is good for flexing and 6mm is better if you plan to affix anything to the panels.
Cheers Combe Valley Campers much appreciated!
Awesome buddy
Thank you man
Hi, where can I purchase the panels for my 2011 Vivaro LWB van? I stripped it out last week and got rid of all the factory fitted panels! Just need rear panels for both sides to cover the insulation etc.. thanks in advance and keep the videos coming, really helpful ...
We are not aware of any to buy. We have made our own
Super cooly boonanas .. all vans are createted equal..😂🤣😂😎pip pips and carryon squadron leader
No vapour barrier required?
Hi @darkwaterblack. In this instance no. The van has been built as a day van and not a full-time camper.
Ugh, foil bubble wrap. The only time you'd find that stuff in my van would be as a window sun screen.
Hi Buggs, thanks for the comments. If you read the description you'll notice I've mentioned the sound deadening and insulation in this van was installed by the owner. Please see our other video for a comprehensive review of sound deadening and insulation!
Just screwing self-tapping screws into the bodywork is idiotic. The way to attach things to the walls is called Rivnuts, or specifically what the Americans call Plusnuts or crossnuts that have a pullout strength of hundreds of kilos. It also doesn't savage the metal or create areas where rust can start proliferating.
Hi Croft, Thank you for your comments. To increase my knowledge I'd love to see pics of how you have installed 3.6mm ply panels into your van with rivnuts. Can you show me also where you have cleanly drilled a rivnut hole which won't rust as opposed to a 2mm hole for a screw. Regards, Leigh
@@CombeValleyCampers In all honesty I haven't. I'm still in scrimping and saving mode. But others have done it quite successfully, it's a bit challenging to line up holes with bolts through the panels but there are tricks (like putting sharp bolts in the rivnut threads, pushing the panel up to it, and then drilling where there are marks). I even saw some people use the pre-drilled holes that are in many vans, Sprinters for instance have tons of them along the walls, but the people who drill into the ribs to make new holes paint the exposed surfaces in the 10 mm or whatever hole after drilling it. The Plusnuts just clamp to the metal, they don't penetrate the paint. Anyway, these guys have a good page on the topic: faroutride.com/crossnut/ - Plusnuts are great for a lot of things. I recall seeing some guy drive three giant self tapping screws into his van ribs to hang a hammock from and those just ripped clean (or not so clean) out. A single plusnut can support 500+ kilos in pullout strength (in sufficiently sturdy steel).
Hi, currently using rivnuts to fit my ply pannels. Ideally would have used trim clips but with all the layers of carpet and 6mm ply that wasnt going to work. Have to say so far its been a right pain. Will see if its worth it and what the end result looks like. Obviously trim clips or rivnuts will leave a visible fixing on the outside. Not massively keen on permanently fixing ply with self tapping screws (into bodywork) and carpeting over. But it does look neat when done well and much much quicker. 🤔
@@Nick-po4qp Sure. Plusnuts do take more planning and more work, even with a tool to fix them to the hole - especially if you have to first carefully drill the hole (with some device on the drill to make sure it doesn't go to "deep" and punch through the side of the van...) and paint the edges. And then making holes in the panels themselves in the right position so you can bolt them down. But if you do all that you have something that's rust-resistant, much stronger and you can easily mount or unmount your wall panels (or furniture, that too should be bolted down to the van properly) an almost unlimited amount of times if need be.
@@lorcro2000 Idiotic is a bit strong...don't you think ? This is screw fixing is a very common and tested process. Rivnuts cause more damage to the bodywork. They are easy to mess up even when you're used to working with them (I use riv nuts on certain applications but not boards to metal : btw I never screw boards to metal either) Different fixing methods have pros and cons including the amount of time the fitter has to bill you for. ...let's not forget the customer has a budget in mind. I realise from your post you are theorising having never done it yourself but seriously Croft ....Idiotic ? Watch and learn. That's what you came here for Happy travels everyone. John
He is using 3mm ply
Custom cut panels don't count. It should be all DIY or all custom.
'How to professionally ply-line a van.' Tip 1, buy your panels pre made!
Are you not aware music is acquired taste ? what ever you have to offer or share ...oh well ... I could do without listening so ... to each their own ..