Cheers Gents. Really nice to see a professional business thats not scared to share the knowledge with the general public. Please keep these kinda video's coming!
I really appreciate you putting all these videos up with recommendations to products, it's going to make converting my van this time next year so much easier!
I can confirm that this chap is spot on, assuming no errors you can do the floor of a T5 LWB with 1x twin pack of DUO, all your tips were spot on, although I did get brave and do full widths rather than 1 metre just takes a bit longer to keep straight but looks the business once laid, shame no ones sees it!!
Thank you guys, always very informative and selfless of you putting these great videos together for the self build community. One of these day I'll find a way to repay :)
Absolutely brilliant your videos, this helps me a lot! But gluing the insulation to the floor sounds like a very permanent thing. What's the reason for not gluing them on the plywood instead? I'm just thinking what if years down the road there needs to be some fixing to be done on the floor. How will you get the matts off and on again. Thanks!
Hi, the point of the deadening, is to add mass to the material, to lessen resonance - this needs to be in close adhesion to work. If you stick it to the underside of the ply, then its the ply board that gets the 'added mass' and not the Van body flooring - I suspect you will hear benefits attaching to the board, but i suspect youll get a more improved performance doing it in the way hes done it here. If it was just thermo insulation then it wouldnt matter - this is a sound deadener as well
Excellent video guys and timed to perfection...picking up my T6 tomorrow......so lots to do and a good chance to do it right with your help from these videos.
I just purchased a 2020 Ford Transit Connect and have been working through your videos. Your videos are clear, succinct, and thorigh, have not found their equal on UA-cam. The question comes from living in the States (the former Colonies)- DodoMat doesn't seem to be available here, any suggestions? Thank you.
Hi, can I have been following you for a while now and I like the way you explain everything so clearly. One think I didn't find anywhere, is how to insulate front doors in the camper. By logic there would be some water coming in through the glass rubber gasket, so do you leave it out? Or insulate it regardless. Is there any specific product you use? Thank you for your answer and good luck
Do you not need some battening in the areas of the floor without the ribs? What is the best way of doing that laying the insulation in the way you do here? Would you glue the batten to the floor and lay the insulation over that or would you lay the insulation and glue the batten to the underside of the ply?
Thanks so much. This has really helped. ive just purchased the items featured for my van. One question.. when I removed all the ply lining from my van there are various holes from the screws. I intend on adding the ply back down after insulating the floor and walls so would you recommend just painting the holes with Hammerite to stop rust (currently there is no rust) and then just re use the same holes for the new ply liner? thanks so much!
Thanks to ur videos my conversion is going well. I have Caravelle Rails on my floor. I was looking at using Dodo Van Insulation Liner Extreme 16mm, 12mm ply and 2mm vinyl to make 30mm. Do u think this would be OK? Shouldn't imagine it would move much as it will be screwed down
Another great instructional video! I do have some concerns with the product though. Firstly, I'm not sure that permanently bonding something to the van floor is a good idea. Eventually, the floor will need repair, probably welding. It'd be a nightmare trying to get someone to do the work with that stuff stuck on the floor. Secondly, and probably most importantly, 5mm of closed-cell (polyethylene?) foam with zero air space each side will have an R-value (thermal resistance) about the same as a yoga mat, which isn't much.
Yeah, and strange the way they present it as if these are your only options. Even their 'finest' seems pretty feeble to me (I put 20mm of closed-cell PE foam down which seems more like a sensible minimum). I'd probably use XPS these days for a stiffer floor.
Hi Lee, love the vlog, i have a question for you im looking at insulating a swb doublecab transit, it has a bulkhead behind the rear seats, would you remove the bulkhead and then insulate the floor or do it with the bulkhead in place?cheers mate, keep the vlog going
Great video I just purchased Dodo Super Liner 6mm Twin Pack. I have to raise my floor to meet my seat rails. Would you batten the floor out 1st and lay insulation over the top or lay batten on the insulation??
Hey guys, I’ve watched this over and over again and as a result I’ve bought the silent coat, the fleece insulation for the walls and now the van liner extreme. I’m working on an l4 Boxer and wondered if you guys would put a layer of XPs or pir board on top of the liner before adding your plywood? It’s a big van that will hopefully visit some colder climates so best to get this right I suppose!!
What I really wanted to see, is the part between the insulation and the plywood, if you put something else to reinforce it and fill those gaps, especially for the T3 van. Since I'm in the wheelchair and the floor already give up 3 times, I'm trying to find a better solution that would resist longer under wheelchair pressure. Also, would you recommend a plywood treatment that could protect from possible water leaks ? This also contribute to the damage of my van floor, after accidental water leaks. Thank you !
Great videos! I am debating this question of paying more for the duo or save a bit and do the deadening and liner separate. Ignoring cost, is there any rear difference in performance between the two options? I am about to order but need to be confident in the choice i make!!
Hey guys, thanks for sharing this video. In your view, is this product as good as batons infilled with something like celoflex? I can see it's far easier to instal, but how would it compare in terms of insulation and sound deadening?
Would sound deadening sheets followed by the Dodo super liner be good enough floor insulation for the UK? If yes, is there much difference between the 6mm and 12mm? Most of the online advice I've seen seems to say batons and 25mm insulation board are the way to go but I don't want to lose the space!
How much road noise do you get when your pulled up on your pitch in the back enjoying your camper? All so is it water proof to repel all the condensation that forms under the floor? And wouldn’t using 18mm marine hardwood faced ply wood provide more insulation than a 12mm ply wood floor meaning the insulation under there is really not needed? And what grade of insulation has that been tested to. As a 18mm ply wood floor with no insulation underneath and standard insulation everywhere else will get you to the highest grade when tested. Just a bit of food for thought.
Thanks for this video! Do you need to fill screw holes from a previous ply floor/racking before applying this? If so, do you have any advice on the best way to do this?
If you would like to fill previous holes, you can use a number of methods such as welding or polyurethane sealant. Anything you do to cover the holes will ve better than leaving them.
Hi gentlemen, I own a T5 Multivan and I would like to add some sound deadening on my floor. Can I use one of these products as depicted in your video in combination with the original VW rubber floor and rails? Thank you in advance.
Hi Guys, Another great informative video. I'm would love to use the Mat Duo for the rear of my T6 but have worries about the depth ! I intend to finish the rear with an extra height door step and threshold strip. The spec says this allows for a floor increase in height of 14mm. My problem is 6.8mm for the Mat Duo, 9mm for the ply and 2.2mm for Altro flooring total an increase of 18mm ! Is this an issue you have come across and is it something you can offer any tips on overcoming please ?
Hi Tony, the mat duo does compress nicely but I'd you are worried, I can suggest coating the floor with the dodo dead mat PRO as that is nice and slim at 2mm. Leigh
Great video thanks, On a VWT5/ T6 is it worth lifting the factory rubber flooring under the driver and passenger seat, to put down a deadening like this? If you want to kill as much road noise etc as possible. Putting the factory flooring back down on top of it afterwards. It would be worth it to me if it added benefit. Do think it would
Great video guys, surely the best information based YT channel out there for conversions. I do have a question how you would go about this product if you’re fitting slim ply batons to level the floor to the ridges for fitting a play floor on top - which order do you work in? Thanks
Could you help me please am fitting a ply floor to a fiat doblo 18mm I'm using what size screws do I use and could I damage anything under the car thanks marty
Got a t6 kombi , want to have sound deadening on the floor but want to be able to put the original mat back down on top, Which mat would you recommend for best noise reduction and best fitting under the original matting ?
I prefer the idea of screwing my floor ply down onto glued battens, ie, not screwing through to the metal floor.... Can I glue my battens to the mat or do I need to consider some other method / product of sound and heat insulation?
Thanks for the videos a great effort to see professionals do it. I have read elsewhere it is also good to have air gap of 6-20mm, to improve thermal insulation about 30% on top of any usual thermal layers... It would also improves sound insulation. Therefore what do you think of the idea and would it make sense too; 1. Bond the battens to floor, roof etc, then sound deaden in between. Then insulate(thermal layer over the entire width of the floor/roof etc over the beams in corporating the air pocket. Or attach the thermal layer to the underside of the floor boards ?
Im trying to find those tools, the roller and tucking tool but struggling, any keyword suggestions or links!? Will be completing both insulation and lining so will be handy.
does anyone know if you can put self adhesive vinyl planks straight onto the dodo super liner or should I put some wooden struts down first? Cheers for any help!
I have the same question about vapor barrier on the floor of the van - did you ever get this figured out? And may I ask, how did you anchor your floor to the van to keep it from buckling?
Hi, this is really helpful, we're at exactly this stage on our T6 LWB... We followed your insulation video using all the suggested products and really happy with the result. Question though, we literally spent all weekend cutting 6mm MDF batons to fit in the recesses on the floor so when the 12mm ply goes down it still sits flush the raised metal ribs... The idea was to bond the batons so not to screw into the van floor... If we put this insulation layer down... the ply will no longer sit on the metal... Are you adding any batons before the ply floor goes down or just placing straight onto the insulation? Please hurry up with the next vid guys, hoping to get the floor nailed next weekend so will be waiting for the vid!! 👍
In my opinion, either way is fine. Its up to you how you fit the floor/batons etc. However, in next weeks video we have attached the floor directly over the insulation and metal.
@@CombeValleyCampers thanks for the reply, does this mean you haven't added batons at all? We weren't actually planning on screwing the floor down to the batons, we've been advised that it's not necessary and the weight of furniture plus a bed bolted through it will keep everything in place...or do you guys screw through the floor? ....hmmm....thinking I may have wasted a day cutting batons for nothing...🤔 Will hang for for your video, keep up the great work guys, these videos have been a huge, huge help!
@@AdamShinwell Can you tell me how your floor turned out. I don't know how to prevent the plywood subfloor from buckling if it is not screwed directly into the floor of the van itself. I once laid a kitchen floor, and in a couple of places, missed a screw - they should be about 16 inches apart. In those places where I missed putting in a screw to anchor my subfloor to the existing layer of flooring beneath, the subfloor buckled, within twelve hours I had ridiculous buckles in my floor. I'm terribly concerned about making that kind of mistake with my van conversion. My understanding is, it's not just about securing the entire floor to the bed, it's about securing the entire subfloor with screws driven right into the bed of the van itself every 16 inches in all directions. I hate the idea of putting holes in the floor of my vehicle, but so far, I've not found another way to avoid the buckling of the subfloor. I welcome anything you can share, my van is sitting outside, empty, and instead of getting some work done, I'm still searching youtube for some answers! Thanks to anyone who cared to read this far, I welcome your input! Thank you very much!
So in the end, we tried to mark where the batons were (we made a map!) and screwed into those where possible but as you say we wanted a good bond and there were a handful of places I wasn't happy with the spring in the floor so I went for slightly longer screws and did indeed go through to the metal. Whether we come to regret that one day down the line who knows but as the guys at Coombe Valley said, there's probably lots of other stuff that will go wrong with the van over the years before those little screw hole become a problem. We have a build thread on the T6 forum, you can see the floor on their from memory. A year later and we're still really happy with the result. www.t6forum.com/threads/our-t6-build-journey-complete-beginners.19294/#post-314955
Quick question ... when applying the sound deadening sheets, if some already has been applied (newish van) is it best to remove the existing sheets beforehand or can apply over the top? Thanks for the vids btw
Thank you just in general for your videos, I'm using them to convert my T4, just one question. The roller that you use to get i tight fit into the groves on the floor, whats it called? I'm nearly finished with the rust and getting ready to do the nice bits inside.
Nice work guys, been following your vids for a while. Just laid the dodo mat duo today. Once i lay the 12mm ply floor with altro will i then need a kombi or caravelle step? Cheers 👍
Scott did you find out the answer to this? I’m about to start work on a Kombi and I’m wondering if the Kombi step will still fit. I’m inclined to just lay some dodo mat between the grooves and batons then go straight down with the ply and Altro. Wood isn’t a bad insulator and I’m more concerned with noise than warmth.
@@kn0bch33s3 Thank you! No screws into the floor? I've not heard of tiger seal, it was suggested to use Marine Adhesive to glue the subfloor down. By chance, do you know the difference between the Marine adhesive and the Tigerseal you're recommending? Thank you again!
@@sheri4673 I think it will be a s similar product, high strength flexible adhesive/sealant. Sikaflex is another commonly used product. If a product says marine its normally more expensive BTW. You can screw from top ply floor into the ply packers. Best to drill and counterink first but personally I wouldn't screw through the metal floor. I have already tigerseale the packing 6mm ply down and there is no chance of it budging. Floor will go down in next few days with prob nearly a whole tube of tiger seal. Lots of weight on top while it cures. No chance it will be budging!
No we dont. There is no need to trap moisture in a vehicle of that size. Campers or residents in a vehicle should practice good ventilation in the living area, much like you would in a residential property
@@CombeValleyCampers Lots of differing opinions out here from DIYers, getting difficult to weed through the good info from the less helpful info. I've been told to put vapor barrier on my walls. Is that necessary? With a vapor barrier (like visqueen) what is it actually accomplishing, keeping moisture INSIDE the cargo area of my van? Keeping any water that leaks through the window seals and door handles from getting to the insulation and framing inside the walls? I'm a real amateur here, I don't understand what are the benefits a vapor barrier inside a van?
@@sheri4673 for a van that is used occasionally (weekends and summer) in the UK or in Europe I would suggest ypu would NOT need vapour barrier, especially if you have insulated the vehicle correctly. If you were living full time in your vehicle then yes I would suggest a higher level of insulation and a vapour barrier. This is my opinion, and I would not stop anyone installing it in their vehicle if they wanted to. Leigh
@@CombeValleyCampers Ok. I've seen it about but not for a long time and typically i want some now to lie on while working on my van. Cheers leigh, I'll keep looking.
I don't quiet understand how this insulation works. Usually Closed cell foam is not supposed to be compressed to work - with this it is compressed down to only a couple of mm where the floor board lays directly on top of it. I can't imagine it is a particulary good insulation, compared to 15-20mm PUR Boards or even Closed Cell foam that is placed within struts.
Hi CVC - Great video thank you. Question, at this stage i would be looking to now lay my 12mm ply flooring to the van. Lots of different methods out there that people suggest, such as Silkaflex 9mm battens to the lower sections or the channels of the van floor, ready for the ply to sit on top of and screw into (which you cover in another video). Or the option to screw straight into the inner skin of the van floor. I havent seen a video or advice anywhere (happy to be corrected) on how to insulate as has been done here, then how you should lay your floor on top. I assume you would have to use the 9mm packers on the floor in the lower sections, but cut the insulation flooring out of these sections to get a good seal on the packers to the van floor with silkaflex. Any idea, and could you advise on the best way to lay the 12mm floor onto this insulated floor? Thank you in advance, your videos have given me the chance to convert alot of the van myself.
Hi, I am looking at using this in my own Transit conversion. Using this and 12mm ply, what length of self tapping screw would I require? Also, would it be worth taping over all joins with aluminium tape? Thank’s in advance, and another great video!
Thanks Michael. This was one of our earliest videos hence the lack of equipment! Thank fully we have learned lessons and bought more gear so our production quality is higher!
Hi Mark, thanks for your observations and comments. The metre was a display to show the audience how much a set measurement of material will reduce in length when applied to a floor. We would not carry out this method in our day to day as we are well versed in such practices. It just so happens, for the beginner, a metre is easier to deal with. The tale measure admittedly is our backup tape as our 'old faithful' good tape measure had given up that morming!
Have you ever camped and slept on the floor without a blanket or ground mat?! It not only provides an insulation layer from the outside temperature but acts as a fantastic sound deadener from drivetrain noise. Leigh
@@CombeValleyCampers no not at all relevant. If your body is on direct contact with a solid body of cold, i.e the ground, then of course Montgolfier brother theory isn't relevant. Fact is you are in a van, away from that source. Read up on thermodynamics mate. As for the part about sound deadening from the drive train, I'm not in the habit of sleeping in the back of my van when it's moving. Are you? Sorry, your evaluation of my question just doesn't stack up. These points aside, thank you for your videos. They are, in most, very good and informative. Just watch out for evil sponsors. 😇👌👍🤫
Hi Sam, if the Altro is laid down in one piece, there will be no joins. If you need to insert "fill in pieces" around the edges then you should have no visible join if they fit well. Leigh
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Cheers Gents. Really nice to see a professional business thats not scared to share the knowledge with the general public. Please keep these kinda video's coming!
You're welcome
I really appreciate you putting all these videos up with recommendations to products, it's going to make converting my van this time next year so much easier!
You're welcome. Thank you for your support
I can confirm that this chap is spot on, assuming no errors you can do the floor of a T5 LWB with 1x twin pack of DUO, all your tips were spot on, although I did get brave and do full widths rather than 1 metre just takes a bit longer to keep straight but looks the business once laid, shame no ones sees it!!
Do I get a Hat?! :-)
just bought a 2017 boxer and am watching all your vids. excellent!! thank you so much for sharing your expertise with us all.
Great 👍 😊glad I found this. You just made my mind up. Been pondering over the vast amount of different products to do my VW. Very helpful 🙌
Thanks for all the videos. I bought a 2019 Ford Transit Connect (in Norway) and going to follow your guidance (and using the products).
*Hi from İstanbul i have T5 hr and making my own convertion. Great video thanx for sharing🇹🇷❤️😎🎥*
Thank you guys, always very informative and selfless of you putting these great videos together for the self build community. One of these day I'll find a way to repay :)
Excellent as each time, regards from CH !
Absolutely brilliant your videos, this helps me a lot! But gluing the insulation to the floor sounds like a very permanent thing. What's the reason for not gluing them on the plywood instead? I'm just thinking what if years down the road there needs to be some fixing to be done on the floor. How will you get the matts off and on again. Thanks!
I'd prefer to do it this way too, but I'd like to know if there is a reason not to do it this way!
I guess it lessens the performance as it not in immediate contact with the floor.
Hi, the point of the deadening, is to add mass to the material, to lessen resonance - this needs to be in close adhesion to work. If you stick it to the underside of the ply, then its the ply board that gets the 'added mass' and not the Van body flooring - I suspect you will hear benefits attaching to the board, but i suspect youll get a more improved performance doing it in the way hes done it here.
If it was just thermo insulation then it wouldnt matter - this is a sound deadener as well
Excellent video guys and timed to perfection...picking up my T6 tomorrow......so lots to do and a good chance to do it right with your help from these videos.
Hi guys
Love the videos I get my LWB T5 in a couple of weeks so will be using your videos for instructional purposes! thanks again.
Great Video guys 👏👏👌🏻👍
Help. Which is the best sound deadening please. And is it any good at keeping heat in the vehicle. Thanks
Great vid, got lost a little, what goes on the floor first, is it the liner followed by the sound deadening ???
absolute LEGENDS!!!!!
I just purchased a 2020 Ford Transit Connect and have been working through your videos. Your videos are clear, succinct, and thorigh, have not found their equal on UA-cam. The question comes from living in the States (the former Colonies)- DodoMat doesn't seem to be available here, any suggestions? Thank you.
Just order a twin pack of Duo for my T5 LWB, nice video thanks guys
Hi, can I have been following you for a while now and I like the way you explain everything so clearly. One think I didn't find anywhere, is how to insulate front doors in the camper. By logic there would be some water coming in through the glass rubber gasket, so do you leave it out? Or insulate it regardless. Is there any specific product you use? Thank you for your answer and good luck
Do you not need some battening in the areas of the floor without the ribs? What is the best way of doing that laying the insulation in the way you do here? Would you glue the batten to the floor and lay the insulation over that or would you lay the insulation and glue the batten to the underside of the ply?
Finally a Ford Transit Custom. :-p I own a long wheelbase and I'm insulating it right now with Dodo. :-p
Geat videos guys.
Made things a lot easier.
Currently working on my lwb T5.
Would I need a dual pack duo mat to cover the floor?
Yes that would suffice
Thanks so much. This has really helped. ive just purchased the items featured for my van. One question.. when I removed all the ply lining from my van there are various holes from the screws. I intend on adding the ply back down after insulating the floor and walls so would you recommend just painting the holes with Hammerite to stop rust (currently there is no rust) and then just re use the same holes for the new ply liner? thanks so much!
What is the insulation value of the dodo mats on the floor?
What is if you got loads of holes where they used to be bolts holding in units what’s the best way of filling them up
Thanks to ur videos my conversion is going well. I have Caravelle Rails on my floor. I was looking at using Dodo Van Insulation Liner Extreme 16mm, 12mm ply and 2mm vinyl to make 30mm. Do u think this would be OK? Shouldn't imagine it would move much as it will be screwed down
If I was to put battens down to secure the ply floor, will this insulation go underneath or over the battens?
Another great instructional video! I do have some concerns with the product though. Firstly, I'm not sure that permanently bonding something to the van floor is a good idea. Eventually, the floor will need repair, probably welding. It'd be a nightmare trying to get someone to do the work with that stuff stuck on the floor. Secondly, and probably most importantly, 5mm of closed-cell (polyethylene?) foam with zero air space each side will have an R-value (thermal resistance) about the same as a yoga mat, which isn't much.
How about applying the insulation to the underside of the Ply flooring ?
Yeah, and strange the way they present it as if these are your only options. Even their 'finest' seems pretty feeble to me (I put 20mm of closed-cell PE foam down which seems more like a sensible minimum). I'd probably use XPS these days for a stiffer floor.
Hi Lee, love the vlog, i have a question for you im looking at insulating a swb doublecab transit, it has a bulkhead behind the rear seats, would you remove the bulkhead and then insulate the floor or do it with the bulkhead in place?cheers mate, keep the vlog going
Hi I loved the video, I am just about to embark on converting a van what are the quantities of Dodo mat Duo needed to cover the floor of a T5 swb
A twin pack of dead mat duo will be fine for a swb.make sure to purchase it via our website as it really helps us out as a channel :)
Great video I just purchased Dodo Super Liner 6mm Twin Pack. I have to raise my floor to meet my seat rails. Would you batten the floor out 1st and lay insulation over the top or lay batten on the insulation??
I'd the 'lead panel' needed on the undulating surface of the van? I thought it was more for large flat surfaces...
Would you recommend the Duo for the wheel arches too, or the foil option?
Hey guys, I’ve watched this over and over again and as a result I’ve bought the silent coat, the fleece insulation for the walls and now the van liner extreme. I’m working on an l4 Boxer and wondered if you guys would put a layer of XPs or pir board on top of the liner before adding your plywood? It’s a big van that will hopefully visit some colder climates so best to get this right I suppose!!
What I really wanted to see, is the part between the insulation and the plywood, if you put something else to reinforce it and fill those gaps, especially for the T3 van.
Since I'm in the wheelchair and the floor already give up 3 times, I'm trying to find a better solution that would resist longer under wheelchair pressure. Also, would you recommend a plywood treatment that could protect from possible water leaks ? This also contribute to the damage of my van floor, after accidental water leaks. Thank you !
Pm me
Great videos! I am debating this question of paying more for the duo or save a bit and do the deadening and liner separate.
Ignoring cost, is there any rear difference in performance between the two options? I am about to order but need to be confident in the choice i make!!
Hey guys, thanks for sharing this video. In your view, is this product as good as batons infilled with something like celoflex? I can see it's far easier to instal, but how would it compare in terms of insulation and sound deadening?
Would sound deadening sheets followed by the Dodo super liner be good enough floor insulation for the UK? If yes, is there much difference between the 6mm and 12mm? Most of the online advice I've seen seems to say batons and 25mm insulation board are the way to go but I don't want to lose the space!
How much road noise do you get when your pulled up on your pitch in the back enjoying your camper? All so is it water proof to repel all the condensation that forms under the floor? And wouldn’t using 18mm marine hardwood faced ply wood provide more insulation than a 12mm ply wood floor meaning the insulation under there is really not needed? And what grade of insulation has that been tested to. As a 18mm ply wood floor with no insulation underneath and standard insulation everywhere else will get you to the highest grade when tested. Just a bit of food for thought.
Thanks for this video! Do you need to fill screw holes from a previous ply floor/racking before applying this? If so, do you have any advice on the best way to do this?
If you would like to fill previous holes, you can use a number of methods such as welding or polyurethane sealant. Anything you do to cover the holes will ve better than leaving them.
Pop rivets with sealant.
Hi gentlemen, I own a T5 Multivan and I would like to add some sound deadening on my floor. Can I use one of these products as depicted in your video in combination with the original VW rubber floor and rails? Thank you in advance.
Hi Guys, Another great informative video. I'm would love to use the Mat Duo for the rear of my T6 but have worries about the depth ! I intend to finish the rear with an extra height door step and threshold strip. The spec says this allows for a floor increase in height of 14mm. My problem is 6.8mm for the Mat Duo, 9mm for the ply and 2.2mm for Altro flooring total an increase of 18mm ! Is this an issue you have come across and is it something you can offer any tips on overcoming please ?
Hi Tony, the mat duo does compress nicely but I'd you are worried, I can suggest coating the floor with the dodo dead mat PRO as that is nice and slim at 2mm. Leigh
Would I need to seal up the Holes in the bottom of the floor first? Holes from old fixings that have been removed. Or are they supposed to be there?
If i have some Dodo Mat Duo left, would u think that would be OK to insulate the cab, doors and ceiling part?
Yes of course. Anything is better than what they came with from the factory!
Great video thanks, On a VWT5/ T6 is it worth lifting the factory rubber flooring under the driver and passenger seat, to put down a deadening like this? If you want to kill as much road noise etc as possible. Putting the factory flooring back down on top of it afterwards.
It would be worth it to me if it added benefit.
Do think it would
Absolutely. We've seen great results by doing this
So what would you suggest putting on top of this floor insulation?
Thanks for the info. I hope I can get similar products here in the USA.
There is talk of exporting these products
Great video guys, surely the best information based YT channel out there for conversions. I do have a question how you would go about this product if you’re fitting slim ply batons to level the floor to the ridges for fitting a play floor on top - which order do you work in? Thanks
I've been told you glue batons to metal floor and insulate ontop
Hi, thanks for the videos! I’m going to buy the stuff featured, but am a bit confused if it is a vapour barrier or if that comes later? Thank you
We don't tend to use vapour barrier in smaller vans, on larger 'live-in" vans it is preffered
Could you help me please am fitting a ply floor to a fiat doblo 18mm I'm using what size screws do I use and could I damage anything under the car thanks marty
Hi! For an 18mm floor I would suggest a 22-24mm screw. Without personally inspecting the van, I could not say if you would harm anything underneath
What are the R Values of these products, Best Regards Arthur
Got a t6 kombi , want to have sound deadening on the floor but want to be able to put the original mat back down on top,
Which mat would you recommend for best noise reduction and best fitting under the original matting ?
Dodo hexmat will work great for this. Dont forget to buy via www.combevalleycampers.co.uk/products Thank you
@@CombeValleyCampers what mm? There's so many variants,, what are your thoughts on the silent coat they do?
@@CombeValleyCampers
I've got some over spray of glue on my van floor ,,, how's best to get this off or is it ok to stick the silent coat on top?
I prefer the idea of screwing my floor ply down onto glued battens, ie, not screwing through to the metal floor.... Can I glue my battens to the mat or do I need to consider some other method / product of sound and heat insulation?
Bond the battens down in place first, sound deaden/insulate between them and then you can screw your floor to the battens
@@CombeValleyCampers cheers... A bit More work of course.. I assume the Duo is the best gear for the floor?
Yes that’s correct 👍
Thanks for the videos a great effort to see professionals do it. I have read elsewhere it is also good to have air gap of 6-20mm, to improve thermal insulation about 30% on top of any usual thermal layers... It would also improves sound insulation. Therefore what do you think of the idea and would it make sense too;
1. Bond the battens to floor, roof etc, then sound deaden in between. Then insulate(thermal layer over the entire width of the floor/roof etc over the beams in corporating the air pocket. Or attach the thermal layer to the underside of the floor boards ?
@@CombeValleyCampers 101%
I have lots of insulated sheets left from doing the sides of the van can I use this on the floor instead of buying the dodo floormat?
Im trying to find those tools, the roller and tucking tool but struggling, any keyword suggestions or links!? Will be completing both insulation and lining so will be handy.
Go.to www.combevalleycampers.co.uk/products and you should find all you need there :)
does anyone know if you can put self adhesive vinyl planks straight onto the dodo super liner or should I put some wooden struts down first? Cheers for any help!
What did you do in the end?
Hello, great video a quick question can you use the Dodo mat duo on the sides and the roof.
We tend not to, but its fine to
@@CombeValleyCampers Thank you for the quick response, what would you recommend?
www.combevalleycampers.co.uk/product-page/medium-van-sound-deadening-and-insulation
Tnx for sharing. So what do you then put on top, so to finish /seal the flooring insulation ?
Stay tuned for next weeks video
Combe Valley Campers looking forward to it already:-))
Great video, would you recommend adding a vapour barrier to the van to prevent condensation build up?
I have the same question about vapor barrier on the floor of the van - did you ever get this figured out? And may I ask, how did you anchor your floor to the van to keep it from buckling?
Nice vid as always. What happened to the plywood install though? (0:37)
Ha! Found it :D Thought it was in the same vid.
Is one roll of DODO DEAD MAT DUO enough for covering of a t5.1 floor? Thanks
Hi, this is really helpful, we're at exactly this stage on our T6 LWB... We followed your insulation video using all the suggested products and really happy with the result. Question though, we literally spent all weekend cutting 6mm MDF batons to fit in the recesses on the floor so when the 12mm ply goes down it still sits flush the raised metal ribs... The idea was to bond the batons so not to screw into the van floor... If we put this insulation layer down... the ply will no longer sit on the metal... Are you adding any batons before the ply floor goes down or just placing straight onto the insulation? Please hurry up with the next vid guys, hoping to get the floor nailed next weekend so will be waiting for the vid!! 👍
In my opinion, either way is fine. Its up to you how you fit the floor/batons etc. However, in next weeks video we have attached the floor directly over the insulation and metal.
@@CombeValleyCampers thanks for the reply, does this mean you haven't added batons at all? We weren't actually planning on screwing the floor down to the batons, we've been advised that it's not necessary and the weight of furniture plus a bed bolted through it will keep everything in place...or do you guys screw through the floor? ....hmmm....thinking I may have wasted a day cutting batons for nothing...🤔
Will hang for for your video, keep up the great work guys, these videos have been a huge, huge help!
@@AdamShinwell Can you tell me how your floor turned out. I don't know how to prevent the plywood subfloor from buckling if it is not screwed directly into the floor of the van itself. I once laid a kitchen floor, and in a couple of places, missed a screw - they should be about 16 inches apart.
In those places where I missed putting in a screw to anchor my subfloor to the existing layer of flooring beneath, the subfloor buckled, within twelve hours I had ridiculous buckles in my floor. I'm terribly concerned about making that kind of mistake with my van conversion.
My understanding is, it's not just about securing the entire floor to the bed, it's about securing the entire subfloor with screws driven right into the bed of the van itself every 16 inches in all directions. I hate the idea of putting holes in the floor of my vehicle, but so far, I've not found another way to avoid the buckling of the subfloor.
I welcome anything you can share, my van is sitting outside, empty, and instead of getting some work done, I'm still searching youtube for some answers! Thanks to anyone who cared to read this far, I welcome your input! Thank you very much!
So in the end, we tried to mark where the batons were (we made a map!) and screwed into those where possible but as you say we wanted a good bond and there were a handful of places I wasn't happy with the spring in the floor so I went for slightly longer screws and did indeed go through to the metal. Whether we come to regret that one day down the line who knows but as the guys at Coombe Valley said, there's probably lots of other stuff that will go wrong with the van over the years before those little screw hole become a problem. We have a build thread on the T6 forum, you can see the floor on their from memory. A year later and we're still really happy with the result.
www.t6forum.com/threads/our-t6-build-journey-complete-beginners.19294/#post-314955
Is the kombi side step needed to accommodate the raised floor and insulation?
would you just put ply ontop of that or a layer of foil/bubble first?
Do you then lay your hardwood floor and screw it straight through a nice metal floor?
Baton to metal and insulate on top of baton
Quick question ... when applying the sound deadening sheets, if some already has been applied (newish van) is it best to remove the existing sheets beforehand or can apply over the top? Thanks for the vids btw
Applying over the top is fine.
Thank you just in general for your videos, I'm using them to convert my T4, just one question. The roller that you use to get i tight fit into the groves on the floor, whats it called? I'm nearly finished with the rust and getting ready to do the nice bits inside.
Penny roller
Can this be used on the walls and ceiling in the van too?
Yes it can be
Is this for sound-insulation only or heat insulation as well?
DODO PRO VAN FLOOR liner. One side is hard the other is soft what side goes up??
Can you use the duo insulation for side panels
No need to add wood on the bigger gaps ?
Why not sound deadening only in some areas and XPS panels?
Sound deadening on the entire floor doesn't mean a consistent weight increase?
Nice work guys, been following your vids for a while. Just laid the dodo mat duo today. Once i lay the 12mm ply floor with altro will i then need a kombi or caravelle step? Cheers 👍
Scott did you find out the answer to this? I’m about to start work on a Kombi and I’m wondering if the Kombi step will still fit. I’m inclined to just lay some dodo mat between the grooves and batons then go straight down with the ply and Altro. Wood isn’t a bad insulator and I’m more concerned with noise than warmth.
@@kn0bch33s3 May I ask, how did you anchor your plywood subfloor to the van floor to keep the plywood from buckling?
@@sheri4673 Tigerseal
@@kn0bch33s3 Thank you! No screws into the floor? I've not heard of tiger seal, it was suggested to use Marine Adhesive to glue the subfloor down. By chance, do you know the difference between the Marine adhesive and the Tigerseal you're recommending? Thank you again!
@@sheri4673 I think it will be a s similar product, high strength flexible adhesive/sealant. Sikaflex is another commonly used product. If a product says marine its normally more expensive BTW. You can screw from top ply floor into the ply packers. Best to drill and counterink first but personally I wouldn't screw through the metal floor. I have already tigerseale the packing 6mm ply down and there is no chance of it budging. Floor will go down in next few days with prob nearly a whole tube of tiger seal. Lots of weight on top while it cures. No chance it will be budging!
great videos, do you guys put in a vapour barrier or alike when using dodo and silent coat?
No we dont. There is no need to trap moisture in a vehicle of that size. Campers or residents in a vehicle should practice good ventilation in the living area, much like you would in a residential property
@@CombeValleyCampers Lots of differing opinions out here from DIYers, getting difficult to weed through the good info from the less helpful info.
I've been told to put vapor barrier on my walls. Is that necessary? With a vapor barrier (like visqueen) what is it actually accomplishing, keeping moisture INSIDE the cargo area of my van? Keeping any water that leaks through the window seals and door handles from getting to the insulation and framing inside the walls?
I'm a real amateur here, I don't understand what are the benefits a vapor barrier inside a van?
@@sheri4673 for a van that is used occasionally (weekends and summer) in the UK or in Europe I would suggest ypu would NOT need vapour barrier, especially if you have insulated the vehicle correctly.
If you were living full time in your vehicle then yes I would suggest a higher level of insulation and a vapour barrier.
This is my opinion, and I would not stop anyone installing it in their vehicle if they wanted to. Leigh
Hi leigh. I've been looking for one of those matts like the one your kneeling on for ages now, where did you get it please.
Its flooring from a nursery!! My friend got his hand on a load when a school was having a refurb!
@@CombeValleyCampers Ok. I've seen it about but not for a long time and typically i want some now to lie on while working on my van. Cheers leigh, I'll keep looking.
@@ivanbullen4284 Perhaps the rubber tiles that are used on playgrounds (they fit together like puzzle pieces) could provide a cushion for your knees.
@@sheri4673 Found some thanks Sheri
I don't quiet understand how this insulation works. Usually Closed cell foam is not supposed to be compressed to work - with this it is compressed down to only a couple of mm where the floor board lays directly on top of it. I can't imagine it is a particulary good insulation, compared to 15-20mm PUR Boards or even Closed Cell foam that is placed within struts.
Very informative and useful. Thank you.
For me the background music whilst you’re talking is slightly distracting. Still a thumbs up tho 👍🏼
Hi CVC - Great video thank you. Question, at this stage i would be looking to now lay my 12mm ply flooring to the van. Lots of different methods out there that people suggest, such as Silkaflex 9mm battens to the lower sections or the channels of the van floor, ready for the ply to sit on top of and screw into (which you cover in another video). Or the option to screw straight into the inner skin of the van floor. I havent seen a video or advice anywhere (happy to be corrected) on how to insulate as has been done here, then how you should lay your floor on top. I assume you would have to use the 9mm packers on the floor in the lower sections, but cut the insulation flooring out of these sections to get a good seal on the packers to the van floor with silkaflex. Any idea, and could you advise on the best way to lay the 12mm floor onto this insulated floor? Thank you in advance, your videos have given me the chance to convert alot of the van myself.
Did you figure out how to anchor the floor to the van floor? Thanks for anything you can share!
Hi, I am looking at using this in my own Transit conversion. Using this and 12mm ply, what length of self tapping screw would I require? Also, would it be worth taping over all joins with aluminium tape?
Thank’s in advance, and another great video!
I also have this query...what did you use in the end, please?
Really.... has that material any thermal qualities at all ?
Was there enough left to do the wheel arches too?
The arches were left to be coated in the 2mm sound deadener
Is there an R value rating on this product? I couldn’t find any info on their site
If you would further info on the product please give the guys at deadening.co.uk a call. They are extremely helpful.
Good video content but better lighting would make it more informative. Just a thought 😀
Thanks Michael. This was one of our earliest videos hence the lack of equipment! Thank fully we have learned lessons and bought more gear so our production quality is higher!
Good video guys but it says ur proffessionals but it came across you was learning as u went along eg you found it easier to do metre strips
Also a pro wouldn't use that tape
Hi Mark, thanks for your observations and comments. The metre was a display to show the audience how much a set measurement of material will reduce in length when applied to a floor. We would not carry out this method in our day to day as we are well versed in such practices. It just so happens, for the beginner, a metre is easier to deal with. The tale measure admittedly is our backup tape as our 'old faithful' good tape measure had given up that morming!
do you know where the full rear door ply was purchased from?
Im afraid not, but from experience it looks like standard 'trade ply lining'
Combe Valley Campers most seem to all be the standard split panel one top one bottom but full door looks tidy
If that is sold as insulation what is the u value ?
www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-dead-mat-duo-twin
No doubt you been asked this a thousand times but doesn't warm air rise and cold air sink? Why insulate the floor?
Have you ever camped and slept on the floor without a blanket or ground mat?!
It not only provides an insulation layer from the outside temperature but acts as a fantastic sound deadener from drivetrain noise.
Leigh
@@CombeValleyCampers no not at all relevant. If your body is on direct contact with a solid body of cold, i.e the ground, then of course Montgolfier brother theory isn't relevant. Fact is you are in a van, away from that source. Read up on thermodynamics mate.
As for the part about sound deadening from the drive train, I'm not in the habit of sleeping in the back of my van when it's moving. Are you?
Sorry, your evaluation of my question just doesn't stack up.
These points aside, thank you for your videos. They are, in most, very good and informative. Just watch out for evil sponsors. 😇👌👍🤫
Why didn’t you baton the floor?
Do you get a visble joint once the altro is down?
Hi Sam, if the Altro is laid down in one piece, there will be no joins. If you need to insert "fill in pieces" around the edges then you should have no visible join if they fit well. Leigh
@@CombeValleyCampers thanks Leigh
No1 !! 😂😂
great how the one dude mouths the text the other dude is saying.
🤣 that is a bad trait of mine. There is no script, but is do it all the time, my wife hates it!
@@CombeValleyCampers well that makes it even more weird! keep it up! :D
No 2 :)
:(
Corrugations
So much waffle
You should have used a white van can't see a thing you are doing
True, but its still a black product. Sadly i cant determine the colour of a customers van
Great videos but, too much chat ……….. why use ten words when you can use 100 ………. I lost interest……….
Loved that you sell everything in one kit on the website, until I saw that it doesn't ship to Norway 🥲 great video!
Awesome, whens the ply floor video coming?
Next week ;)
Can you put the ply floor straight on this installation or do you have to put strips of wood down first