Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van - Plywood Lining
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- How to install plywood lining for our Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van Conversion. We used 9mm Marine plywood and self-drilling screws to secure the ply to the metal structure of the van.
This can be used to secure furniture boards and cupboards.
The plywood in the shower is sealed with a coat of PVA wood glue.
#gregvirgoe #vanlife #tinyhome
Man, I love watching your videos. The attention to detail and the calm and measured delivery is the best. You're like a favorite teacher at school, someone who knows everything and can explain it to everybody in simple to digest parts. Watching your videos is almost as enjoyable as doing these things yourself. Maybe even more so! Thank you very much!
Absolute pleasure Phillip and thank you for such great feedback
Absolutely prefer UA-cam content to MSM/TV.
These videos are informative, creative, inspiring. Thanks Greg !
Thank you very much Karen. Much appreciated 😊🙏🏼
Great video Greg. Gives me confidence to do the floor in my Renault master now. Thanks again very much, Jimmy
Never thought I would say this but I prefer watching your van build videos to mainstream tv these days lol. Thanks again Greg. Have just about decided on the van and then hopefully all this valuable information you have passed on will be put into practice. Don't have a fraction of your skills but defiantly got the enthusiasm.
I did a desk job for 30years and didn’t pick up any tools until two years ago so it’s definitely doable 😀
TV is dead. These long form project videos are much better.
I’ve watched UA-cam videos for years rmichele rather than TV. I got a chrome cast so you can send it to your big screen
@@GregVirgoe Have had a Macintosh Mini hooked up to the TV for over a decade now (on perhaps my 3rd Mac Mini as I have upgraded them over the years). TV died for me a long time ago. Not sure why people keep paying cable/satellite companies to show "marathons" and loads of commercials. Content from ordinary blokes like yourself (if you'll excuse my use of the term *ordinary*) are world's better than what they try to stretch to fill 60 minutes of "airtime".
@@softdorothy now we get endless commercials on youtube which kills it a bit but least you can find some useful informative material to watch rather than celebrities skating about or eating bugs lol.
whenever i watch your videos i have a sense you are a genuine lovely human :) Thanks for all the content! your videos have helped me tremendously
Really glad they have helped you Matt, that’s what it’s all about really. Cheers
You videos are so good, full of knowledge 👌🏼
You certainly set the standard. Great series of videos.
Hopefully plenty of tips to help others with their own builds
Terrific videos! I have enjoyed the series. Thank you for being so generous with what you have learned and done!
It’s been a pleasure 😀
Ah I hoped you make this video. You should move it up 2 in your playlist. Nice one Greg
Thank you I will look at that and change the order. Cheers
Great point about using the ply to “trap” internal wall panels. Most builders ply the walls completely before starting interior details. I think your method is superior.
It has given incredible strength to the dividing walls with no mechanical fixings.
Your attention to detail is inspiring.
exerlent Greg , you have a real talent for teaching .cheers
philip matthews thank you very much 😊
Terrific video. My most lasting regrets in projects have been from using cheaper materials to save money. All the precision work, the finishing, cannot overcome poor components(in my eyes). Great idea on the marine plywood.
Great info! Now I know how to pick out a jigsaw blade for my needs. Thank you so much😊
Not just the skill but the way you describe your work which in my opinion is done to a very high standard.
Those stubby pencils fit nicely behind the ear. Bet they were a bargain 🤑
Very quick work Greg, you went through those archives fast...Another great informative video...Super smashing great!!!
Hi Kevin, I shot these timelapses back in May and only about 1min of footage.
Try to make it more useful
Tbh you should have your own tv show the main stream media are missing a trick hats off to you , loving this series thanks for bringing us along👍🏻
Brilliant music and brilliant workmanship. Say no more! B-) cheers Greg Andy Kelly uk
Top man Greg class job through out 🔝👍😎👏
Your videos are a joy to watch; logical explanations and also professionally done (I can't watch shaky camerawork). I'll probably buy your ebook and surely keep watching your videos, even though I will be doing a build in a smaller 2003 Chevy Astro AWD hightop. Now I know the right way to insulate!!!
So glad I found your videos we are about to start our own van conversion clear instructions and good tips thank you 👍
Well there....i never even realized that the blades teeth went either way. Ive only bought by the size of the teeth. You taught an old gal a new trick. Lol
Excellent walkthrough Greg!! Thank you, beautiful conversion!👏
Thank you very much
I watch al your videos. Can't wait to see a tour of the finished camper !!!!!!!!!!
great as ever Greg. its like a masterclass for van conversions, top effort.
I've been hunting high and low for this video from you... thanks
excellent videos - I'd much watch this than tv any day. You have everything worked out, amazing! You may have mentioned this but what should you look for when covering/insulating/cladding a window? I can't remove the window, the van has quite a few! . 🙏 👍 😀
The windows obviosuly will be a cold spot so making sure that it's well insulated is a must.
I woudl be tempted to use a self adhesive closed cell foam sheet first directly onto the inside face as it's inherently waterproof. Build up with normal insulation over that and vapour barrier before cladding. I presume you will black out the windows before covering?
Greg, all your work is on the sprinter and can’t find a single Promaster. I will be happy to let you work on mine for the thousands of promaster’s waiting for D’ video!
I know they are very slightly different shape but you can still apply all the same techniques that I have shown you to your van. :D
:) another GregGreat :)) can't wait to see the finished tour... :)
Yep no more than me too 😀 lol
Greg Virgoe i thought you d be on the road by now :)
Underestimated the amount of work the build and the channel would take when doing everything on my own.
MOT and service booked first week of Sept the away shortly after. Cheers
tx for a fab series ! enjoy !
Enjoying the series, keep up the excellent work. Particularly like the use of a tripod, not a lot of cost, but such an improvement as I cannot watch any content where the camera is being waved around like a flag.
Thanks Brian, I try and use it as much as possible sometimes it just gets in the way but now have a DJI Omso gimbal for the camera so handheld shakey footage should be a thing of the past 😀
Another good video, I'm using some of your ideas on my own project.
Loved this series Greg, your motorhome could easily pass for a factory build. Keep up the good work and hope you have a fab Euro tour.
Great detail Greg. Thank you!
No problem Don 👍🏼
I'm addicted. Another great video
always very helpful 👍
Thanks for the concise video and explanations, very helpful.
Hi Greg, we are thinking of lining our walls with cladding, I notice you did not have battens on the walls before adding the ply. Would you bother if you were cladding all over??. P.s thanks for all the help, I would be lost without your videos 😊
I think you would have to add battens if you want cladding to have something to fix to at regular intervals. The ply sheet is self supporting.
You could rip some wider strips of plywood for battens rather than using regular timber. It would give you a wider part to fix to, less likely to move, warp or split too. That’s what I would go for 👍🏼😃
@GregVirgoe what if we when for plastic tongue and groove cladding..could we just sikaflex it to the 9mm board without battens
@@anthonybaker8288 you could use a concealed pin through the tongue of the pvc cladding.
You seem to be a real master Jig Saw cutter, I've never seen anyone cut so exact to the markings with a jigsaw. I've always seen my jigsaw as an evil jumping monster, clearly it's been my bad choice in blades. Hey Greg there is a small chance I will be on the other side of this Planet at a crazy motor bike race on the streets of some Island next year...I might be able to buy you a Pint or 3 :)
Hi Karl, a few tips, the thicker blades don't bend as easily so you get a straighter vertical cut, the blade needs to be sharp of course, the down cutting blades do make the tool jump more as they are pushing the wood away from the base and the main thing is to let the saw do the work and don't force it go at the pace it's happy with. If we are both on the island mate that's a definite, keep me posted on your plans 🍻😃
Excellent work
So no batons on the walls then , the 9mm ply is strong enough to put batons into and build cupboards from there?? Great video series , so many other inferior ones about that don’t give you the level of detail to really get it right. Thanks
xtremesportsamateur yes fix 9mm marine ply direct to the van then screw your furniture to it, plenty strong enough.
Greg, what a great series of videos you have made and you are such a good teacher for all of us aspiring van builders, I am looking forward to the rest of the videos. The explanations and tips are fantastic. Some questions 1) did you weigh the van before and after? 2) If its not a rude question what was your overall build cost? 3) how long did it take you to carry out the build?
Fab Video well done Greg :-)
Hi Greg, just wanted to thank you for your time and effort putting all these really helpful videos together. I am just interested as I am watching you, who was your mentor? Which movies our websites did you use to gather information?
Greetings from the Netherlands!
Maarten Visser one channel I can recommend Travel with Jaz he’s an electrician and did a really good build series on UA-cam. There is a very good self build camper van book available online too 😊
Hi Greg brilliant videos and extremely helpful .Do you have a link for the 10mm Acoustic Felt Wall lining ?Thanks in advance, Roy
No sorry it was saved from going in a skip on a building project. It’s an acoustic wall covering for meeting rooms or boardrooms 😊
Another great video Greg. Can't help but wonder what was blurred out on your hand though!? 🤔😀
Hi Greg, love the videos - have started a sprinter conversion too and I'm less daunted knowing I've got your knowledge to refer to! So thank you very much. You talk about jigsaw blades here and I was wondering what blade you used when you cut the roof for the fans - was it a very fine-toothed blade i'm guessing?
Adam Phillips there are blades designed to cut metal and they do have small teeth the same as hacksaw blades. They normally print on the blade of it’s a metal or wood blade. 👍🏼😀
I did mine differently, if I had seen your video a couple months back, I would have done mine a little different. lol
How did you do yours?
great as always. kudos
Another brilliant video which is very useful for my van conversion. Thanks a lot! Quick question: Do you run your cabling behind the insulation panels or carve tunnels in it and cover them with foil tape?
You can do either I ran most of my cables in conduits before I insulated as it was just easier with an empty van
Hi Greg, great videos! I noticed you screwed 12mm ply strips to the roof beams before fitting the final sheet which stops the cold bridging through the screws if you screw directly to the beam, however I noticed that for the sides this was not the case and you just screwed directly through the ply to the metal beams. Is there any reason why? It just got me a bit confused as I assumed it would be the same method for both. Many thanks for all the excellent teaching, I’d be lost without your videos!
Great Job!
Thanks for another great video.
Did you think about sealing the back and edges of the plywood before fitting it to the van just in case any dampness got in there.
When I relined the pop top on my old VW T25 I gave everything a few coats of epoxy before fixing it up. I only used epoxy because I was given a load to mend my boat and had about had a gallon left over. I don't know how successful it would have been because my clutch went and the breakdown man knocked the whole top off when he drove his big yellow taxi under a low branch.
Your "Cheers" sounds a bit like the German "Tschüss". So you're perfectly prepared to visit Germany soon ;o)
Ah well that is ok if I want to say goodbye to everybody lol
I never learnt German when I was at school, only French.
Gott sei Dank haben wir jetzt Smartphones :D
You are great mate!
Could you please explain how this is fixed, have watched all your videos now and this is the bit I'm unsure of. I noticed you put the rivnuts in and looks like you fixed some sort of batten to those. Just a little unsure of the process of securing the ply. Many thanks for all you videos so far they have been a great help in learning.
Hi Stuart Bennett, there are two main horizontal structural members in the back of the van, one about 2ft high and the other at shoulder height. I fitted a row of rivnuts into the lower structure as this would eventually be supporting the bed frame. The build up at that point is insulation, vapour barrier, ply lining, bed support angle all bolted together into the nuts. The upper structural member I screwed 9mm ply battens to. Vapour barrier over everything and ply lined over that. So even if I hit a hole in the steel the screws would still be secure through the ply battens. Good idea to use Sikoflex on your battens that stuff is incredible, forms an amazingly strong bond. Hope that helps
@@GregVirgoe Hi Greg, thank you for all the excellent videos and information, you are so good at this! I'm hooked!
I have a question relating to vapour barrier on my build, and I know you'll be good to ask on this subject due to your full time career skills.
I will be installing a complete vapour barrier between the ply lining and the insulation and metalwork, exactly as you have shown.
Will any moisture still occur up on the inside of the van metalwork before the vapour barrier, and also on the inside (on the ply), or is the condensation fully stopped by having the barrier?
I can't quite get my head around it. There will be moisture inside the vehicle, from being human, and cooking etc, will this dissipate, or will the ply (before the barrier) absorb it?
Sorry for the long question :o|
Michael
ps, I took a holiday in Quirky Angel late summer, after watching your video, we had an amazing adventure in France! Now started my own build.
Hello Michael, you are right, the vapour barrier does prevent the moisture getting thought it but you do need a small layer of insulation to raise the surface temperature above the dew point. The one good feature of reflectix is it does create a small thermal break with the air bubbles enough to change the surface temp. Polythene straight onto metal with any insulation would most likely condensate on the surface of the polythene. There are some areas that you cannot combat the door frames and single glassed Windows, so that's why you need adequate heating and good ventilation, this will raise the internal surface temperatures and good vent will help to remove fully saturated stale air.
Great that you took Angel out it is a lovely van and we really enjoyed our trip in her, great way to try out camper van before jumping in yourself.
How was your trip and what were some of the highlights?
@@GregVirgoe Thank you for the detailed reply Greg, that has helped my understanding significantly. So, is that why you added reflectix under the automotive carpet on the rear door frames, to add a small thermal break onto that potential weak spot? Is it a good idea to have a gap between the reflectix and insulation proper whenever possible? Also, am I right in thinking that all of your internal cabentry and walls are only ever screwed into your 9mm ply and wood batons, and never all the way through to the metal ribs? Sorry for so many questions Greg.
Had an amazing time in Angel, I've given it some thought, and here are my highlights -
1. I had no idea where I was going, 10 days in Europe, just followed the weather as it was late summer. I've never done anything before without an itinerary. so liberating. I learned to slow down very early on, and not rush to drive to somewhere else. I picked up that tip from other vanlifers on youtube.
2. I met a German motorcyclist at the campsite within the lovely walled town of Langres, and he said it was a must to drive the mountainous A417 through Gerardmer, and through to villages to Kaysersberg castle. It was breathtaking, I've never driven roads like it, scary at times but amazing. Almost James Bond-esque. Whilst still in France, the towns and villages are very Germanic in style, so nice and so very different to the rest of France that I had seen.
3. I had got my bike with me, and just loved disappearing for long rides into the unknown. Very calm cycling in France compared to England, the roads in the small towns and countryside are so much quieter than here, and other road users are much more cyclist aware.
4. Breakfast from the local Boulanger, and trying to make sense of the food on offer in the supermarkets for cooking that night in Angel. I'll be having a Thetford oven, and Argent sink like yours. Angel performed perfectly, and I learned which aspects worked well for me. I'd highly recommend it to anybody building a van, to hire one from Quirky first.
All in all, it was excellent, and can't wait to go again, but this time in my own Van (with your youtube help of course!)
Thanks again. Michael.
Hi Greg, Great Vid again! Question for you.....Theres been a lot of discussion on other instructional you Tube vids wrt ply lining and fixing cupboards....saying that you should not use screws (self tapping) to fix anything that is likely to seperate from its wall fixing like wall cupboards or heavy fixed objects in the event of a crash. Apparently you should use Riv nuts as they are stronger and items like cupboards shouldn't seperate (from its fixing)in the unlikely event of an RTA and lead to 'flying objects'. It does make sense although accessing the RIV nuts to fix a cupboard could be onerous if not impossible in some inaccesible areas. ....thoughts?
Excellent as always, thx a lot, Greg!
:-)
Hi Greg I've watched all your videos so many times now, im just starting my van build could I ask what size self drilling screws you used to attach ply to the structural ribs? Your an inspiration and your videos have given me the push to bring my dream of travelling to reality. Thanks in advance Dianne
I used the ones from screwfix and they are 25-32mm long. Don’t get the ones with little wings on as they won’t work in thin sheet metal. Hope that helps 😊
Hi Greg probs a daft question but pan head or counter sunk?
@@diannemarshall6787 I’m pretty sure they only do them in pan head style. So if you can recess them with a countersink drill bit.
Hi Greg, I’m very new to this and yet to buy my van but your videos are are very inspirational and giving me confidence to be able to do my own. Just one question though... some people suggest adding battens to the steel frame of the van to fix the ply to but I see you didn’t do that. Any reason why people suggest to do this? Cheers 👍
I did use wooden battens for the ceiling but not for the walls. It is good to use battens as it creates a thermal break in your fixings from inside to out.
Greg Virgoe Would you suggest doing it on the walls as well then or not necessary? Just do on ceiling? Would you put the battens over or under the vapour barrier? Cheers!
Hi Greg, just finishing off the ply lining, and I've gone for your 9mm marine ply solution, which I really like. However, my carpentry skills are still developing (from a low benchmark!) and try as I might there is still a bit of a gap between adjacent panels. I'm thinking of just putting a flexible wood filler into it on the basis that the panels are tight and not going to flex too much. Do you have any experience of what would be best? Most of the joins will be be covered but a couple will be visible between the wall cladding.
Another option is to use some beading to cover any joins. A half round on flat surfaces or quarter round in corners. Pin in place with small nails. There are some really decorative mouldings you can get if you want to make more of a feature out of it. 👍🏼😃
Don't you have any thermic bridges by screwing your plywood directly in the steel structure ? Nice job, thks for all
Hi Greg - great videos. With your internal divider, if I understand you, that is not secured by any fixings, just supported by the ply sheets on the walls? Is that correct? Just also wondering if you've had any issues now the van has been mobile for a while. Regards and great motivation to commence a van!
DNL1200GSA the furniture board is secured to the 2x2 framework with screws and to blocks within the cupboards at high level.
Hi Greg, really informative. Only just starting our van. Just wondering why you didn’t use the plywood that was in the van when you purchased it? It looked in really good condition and you used it as a template, was there a reason you bought new?
Two reasons for that
1. It was very thin, 4-5mm so not very structural for fixing furniture to. The 9mm was much stronger and still flex to conform to the curves.
2. I chose marine ply which is an exterior grade has a stronger glue and less likely to delaminate.
It was £25 a sheet but I think worth the investment 👍🏼 hope that helps
Hi Greg. Firstly thanks for the amazing vids! Just a query (which I might have missed) but did you insulate the sides of the van similarly to the roof (with some insulation board, and vapour barrier) or simply the Reflectix and then ply over that?
Hey Greg, love your videos! Were converting our van at the mo and when attaching the plywood to the metal structure frame of the van, how much gap between the end of the self tapping screw and the van outer wall should you leave? As I'm concerned that the outer walls of the van could vibrate and move when driving (or going over bumps) and catch the end of the screws? Which we obviously don't want!! Thanks :)
Also, super glad you made it back to the uk safe and sound :)
Hi Greg, thanks for all the videos you’ve posted!
Quick question for you ....... I don’t want to carpet our van as we’ll have dogs in it. We’d prefer to use the 3mm vinyl board like you used for your roof. If we use this on the walls would we need to use a thicker ply first using the 3mm as a finishing product?
MICHELLE BOUCHARD the 3mm vinyl ply is very flimsy and has no strength to it.
I lined my van with 9mm marine ply so I would have something strong to screw all the furniture to. It would be better with a base layer first but I realise that is extra cost and work. If it is fixed regularly it may be ok.
Greg Virgoe thanks so much for the reply. You’ve confirmed my thoughts lol
Keep up the great work - love your channel
@@michellebouchard8454 hi michelle 6mm ply on the sides then covered with faux leather upholstery is far better than 4 way stretch carpet in a motorhome. easier to keep clean and gives it a more professional look
Hi Greg, did you do a video on the shower/toilet install?
I thought that I had seen it before, but can not seem to find it
Yes, but not released yet, watch this space :D
Hi Greg. Apart from the window frames, have you ply lined all of the van sides and roof. Can I just put carpet straight onto the reflector where I don't need strength?
jon raymond, yes you can, exactly what I did round the door and window frames, watch this video ua-cam.com/video/nwgCNsEidaA/v-deo.html
When you secured your cabinets did you screw through to the steel structural members of the van or just to the ply wall lining?
Just the ply lining and the roof battens. Have a look at the high level cupboard video and see how strong they are 👍🏼😃
Hi Greg. Thanks for all the videos. I have a question about the use of foil backed bubble products as a vapour barrier. When I was doing a shed with one of these products on researching I discovered how placing the product in direct contact with a surface could influence the temperature within, taking advantage of it's thermal conductivity properties. E.G. in cold climates placing the product directly against the outer skin of the building could help conduct heat into the building. So, placing a foil/bubble product between the insulation and in direct contact with the ply lining or tongue and groove is going to try to conduct heat from the warmed ply lining or tongue and groove and into whatever else it's in contact with which in some instances will be the steel structural mouldings of the van. Is this something that you've factored into your selection of these sorts of products as a vapour barrier?
Great videos. I have watched both insulation videos, and the plywood lining video here... I have a question for you. I was planning on using PEM nets to attach the 80/20 framing for bench seats, overhead cabinets, and the kitchen galley. I am wondering how you would recommend exposing the PEM nuts through the reflectix vapor barrier and plywood sheeting? Thanks so much!
You know Greg, I have always thought there was something not right about you... If you watch the video starting at 3:14 guys you will see Greg is a multi-armed alien. I knew it!
Damn, I was hoping nobody would notice, busted lol
hi Greg how many 8x4 boards did you use on the walls great vid by the way
Mark Bentham I bought 4 boards for the walls. 👍🏼
Hi Greg brilliant videos and extremely helpful the detail you go into is really helpful. Can I ask did you use any wood battens to screw the plywood onto or did you go straight into the metal of the van?
You cut where you’ve put the socket cases,how did you fix those socket cases into the insulation. Are they stuck to the van sidewall ?
I used plaster board back boxes that have push out wings on the side that sandwich against the back of the ply lining when you put the face screws in. Look up "Dry Lining Boxes" www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=dry+lining+back+box&_sacat=3187&_dmd=2&rt=nc&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338027957&toolid=11800&mkevt=1
Hi Greg. Hope you're well. From what I can see, when fitting the top piece of plywood for the bed area did you effectively let it sit on the bolts that go through the ali angle and then fix it to the wall, allowing you to then remove the ali angle to fit the bottom piece of ply? Did you make holes through the bottom piece of plywood before bolting the angle through it? or did you leave a thin gap between the two pieces of plywood for the bolts to fit? Hope that makes sense!
Robin Malik I drilled holes in the top piece of plywood and bolted the angle on top of the ply wood putting the bolts through the holes into the rivnuts. I make a 2x2 stud wall underneath the angle to fit services in and then ply lined the garage on top of that stud work.
Hello Greg. I had plywood on the side and ceiling of my van installed. (I couldn't do it myself due to injuries) I am happy with the result but to be honest I am thinking there is too much wood. If I painted the sides would I need to put a sealer on the area I decide to paint? What type of paint would I need? Thank you for your video great ideas
Hi Greg when did you buy 9mm plywood for the lining I got some marine ply for the floor got wet in my garage and just came apart which I was really surprised I didn't think they would happen with marine ply
Hey Greg i just thought about this today I the way home from work,tell me what you think.
I thought about the possibility of cutting a square out in the floor and welding in a recessed steel shower pan w drain .also thought about cutting in various boxes of differing depths and dimensions with securable lids for storage areas?
Hi Greg. This was a great video, as they all are, with so many tips I had to take notes as I watched. I'm thinking of lining the bedroom end of my van with 9mm hardwood plywood and then painting it so It creates a separation from the front living area of the van that will be panelled. Would hardwood plywood be sufficient rather than using marine plywood as there is no water or moisture at that end of the van? I appreciate your opinion and knowledge so thank you in advance.
Great videos Greg,Just interested in the self drilling screws,are they stainless steel?or would that be overkill?
Hi Andrew, yes they are stainless steel from Screwfix, not the ones with wings on as they don't work in thin sheet metal.
Hi Greg, thanks for the great videos. Definitely some of the best info I've found on you tube. How did you get them screws into the metal, did you drill a pilot hole?
Alan Magee no they are self drilling screws. They have a drill tip and cut their own hole and thread really easy.
@@GregVirgoe Hi Greg. Since you are drilling through wood into metal, would you use metal screw rather than wood screw?
mosc7pc2 I use a self drilling self tapping screw from screwfix. It does all the work itself and they are brilliant 😀
Hi Greg great video .
You have probably answered this question before but when you planned your layout did you have to make sure that the weight distribution would be even throughout so the van was balanced or is it not necessary.
Thanks
Dave
Hi Greg, I'm curious to know if you lined the ceiling with 9mm ply in long narrow strips front to back or if the sheets were laid in a similar way to the walls?
Giacomo
Giacomo Latella this video will show you what I did ua-cam.com/video/mqSsNGpplZc/v-deo.html
Hi Gregg
You have produced an excellent series of van build videos which I am currently reviewing as I work on my second build (My van was recently stolen).
I do have one question though, it looks like you are not screwing the ply lining into batons (like everyone else) and yet the lining can still support your upper cabinets, is this correct?
Thanks
Yes most of the 9mm ply lining is secured directly to the steel van with self drilling screws. It’s a very strong and simple solution. 👍🏼😊
@@GregVirgoe Thanks Greg, keep up the good work. These videos are invaluable to the layman and I have yet to see a better series. Although I suspect some people are copying you.
Can't wait for the new build series, and I agree, van prices are insane at the moment.
Cheers
Hi. Great videos! Just have a question about the self drilling screws. I am not quite sure which type you are using. Could you put a link to an online store. That would be so fab! Thank you
Same here, I’m super chuffed to have found your excellent videos.
I would really like to know when I should use stainless self drilling screws and when galvanised. Also what material to choose for the rivnuts. I think you are making sure that most of your screws and nuts are behind the vapour barrier, and therefore you are using galvanised, Because there is little risk of condensation. But where you end up screwing into the van and the heads are visible, such as on the door cards, won’t you keep getting condensation on the heads? We spend a lot of time by the sea and so rust is a worry. You mentioned using aluminium rivnuts in another video, but would you not be worried about joining different metals?
Hi Greg love the series!!, i’m using it more than any others , I had a quick question tho, I’m at this stage and was thinking of glueing more reflectics to the back of the panels and would love to know what you think.
Chris Srichankij it really needs to be applied to the van and all the edges sealed to the van to prevent air getting into those voids. If you stick it to the back of the panels you would not be able to seal the edges.
If you have extra left over put another layer over the van but don’t buy more as the benefit is not worth the extra cost.
Hey Greg, potential stupid question alert... I've listened carefully in your other videos about the importance of sealing the vapour barrier with silver tape. When screwing the plywood onto the struts the vapour barrier is pierced by the screw. I'm guessing that's ok because there is very little space between/around the vapour barrier and the screw plus the wood on top kind of seals it? Am I right?
Did you simply screw the cupboards to the the 9mm flywood or though it in the metal wall of the van?
Sweet as always! Just on question for you... have you given any thought to the self drilling screws weather they can give you a rust problem down the road?
All van linings are secured in this way. Unless the inside of the van is going to be wet there is no problem. Insulated correctly, have some form of heating and adequate ventilation and that problem will never materialise. Thanks
It’s great you have original word bourd s to use as templates, but if you don’t, what tricks are there to get accurate cuts on bourds for complicated areas
I’m ok handy wise but no carpenter, so any help would be great!
So the parts you can't insulate you're putting the reflective silver material, and you're still able to carpet over the top of it?
hi greg thanks for the videos. did you ply line the walls before you did the roof. I'm thinking cladding so was wondering if I should ply the walls first then do the roof ofr vise versa?
5:30 walls first then roof
@@GregVirgoe okay thanks
great vid yet again i ply lined my work van. its quite difficult, quick question again has the relective bubble wrap got a sticky side, just wondering how you fixed it to the sides of the van. also did you fit the bubble wrap on the ceiling prior to vinyle ply
Michael Lowe i uses some trim fix adhesive. Made the job really easy.
@@GregVirgoe cheers the high temp adhesive, cheers
Michael Lowe yes that’s the one red label on white can
Hi I noticed the hole for your extractor fan in this video. What extractor fan have you used please ?
I struggled to find a decent 12v dc fan so I used a Xpelair LV100HT Fan which is 12v AC with a transformer and it runs off our inverter supply so it’s not an ideal solution but it works. 😃👍🏼
What self drilling screws did u use for ply lining greg?
Paul Mooney I’m pretty sure they were 1 1/4” ones from screwfix in brown box. Not the ones with little wings on 👍🏼😊
@@GregVirgoe not sure wat u mean wings are they the tec countersunk ones ,could u send a link sorry ☺️
Paul Mooney www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-self-drilling-pan-head-screws-4-2-x-25-x-100-pack/2929h
Hi Greg, when you did the refletix and ply lining at the back, how did you accommodate the rear door hinges? Do you have them running on the outside of the ply?
PermaHeretic I'm guessing you mean the rear door stays that keep the doors open at 90deg? They fold back onto the door and there are small Spring clips there to hold them to the door, so you don't need holes in the side of your van. You can just let them run along your ply lining as they are sprung but they will leave a mark over time. I clip them to the back of the door before closing up.
Ah, I hadn't noticed the clips. I'll go out with a torch in a minute and have a look. I made a bit of a design error by having the bed either too low or too high (i.e in exactly the wrong place), but think I have solved it by having a broad piece of wood along the back (side) of the bed and let them run along that. It's OK as long as I don't slam the doors. But maybe the clips will help.
Brilliant! The clips are just what I need. Still have to be a bit careful slamming the doors ( I have never recovered from having Land-Rovers: 'if you don't slam, it don't shut') I think maybe the clips are a bit worn - but it is far less fiddly than pulling it right out and running it along the bed frame. Thank you.
The clips are not the best so I made a couple of wooden toggles and zip tied them to the spring clips simply feed toggle through the hole in the arm and twist to hold the arm back and you can slam to your hearts content 😃👍🏼
Sorry to ask this if you have already answered it - were you not worried about cold bridging by drilling right through into the van wall joists?
Sir,
Will the screws not conduct heat and possibly condensation into the living area? Thank for your time!
Will this create rust underneath van?
Another quick question about the ply etc covering the rear of the van: did you cover up those round holes that are the access point for bolting and unbolting the sliding door runner? I've got a window there, so not planning to cover with ply, although I do need to do something - probably vapour barrier and some of the stretchy carpet, as yours does look good. But I want to keep the holes accessible - not least because they leak, and two of them are really rusty and will need removing and cleaning up at some point. I am thinking of getting some rubber bungs. I wondered what you did.
I'm not sure where you mean? My kitchen is behind the sliding door and that is all ply lined 😳
There is a row of maybe 5 or 6 25mm (ish) diameter holes just below the panel (on mine the window). They go into the hollow, panel cavity just like a all the other holes do - but each of these has a nut and bolt behind it. This close-up is from the DIY Sprinter group a few months ago - unfortunately when my camera was broken and blurry, facebook.com/groups/1944840735836864/permalink/2096489637338639/