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Is this good? Creality CR 10 v3 - 8 Month Review
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2024
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If you need more technical details about the CR-10 watch my first impression video, to get the full picture about this printer.
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00:00 Intro & Info
01:13 Pros
02:44 Cons
02:58 Fan noise
03:32 Filament Sensor
04:51 Firmware
06:19 Hotend
08:50 V-Rollers
10:25 Conclusion
13:53 Sample prints
14:39 Outro
#3Dprinting #Creality
I bought my cr-10v3 back in June 2021 as my first ever 3D printer and do regret the purchase.
It just so happened that I had access to an ender 3, a tenlog dl-3 pro, and a photon mono x, at work during the summer so I learned a lot of 3d printing there instead of using my own with how many problems I had.
At this point now I can print reliably after a lot of troubleshooting, clogs, tinkering, and customizing, but if I could go back in time I would get a different one as the large build volume is honestly rarely used in my case and is not worth the trade-offs.
In case anyone reading this already has one: do not buy the bltouch, I did and it was not worth it. I did buy a glass build plate and absolutely love it over the included (warped) bed. I bought mine at $550 usd and saw it on sale for $356 usd recently which at that price is not terrible if you already have the experience and have the time to tinker with it.
yea i would recommend everyone stay away from this printer, looking online i see nothing but problems with it. constant leveling issues. i got one and i have never printed with it, completely faulty from the start and no reply from creality or the company i bought it from here in NZ. I will never buy this companies crap again, i lost nearly $1300 nzd, literally got nothing for it but a large broken 3d printer.
to be honest that is the process with every under 1000 usd 3d printer basically..
@@feliwein_cc sovol seems like the way to go, i have a sv01 but i want a bigger print bed, seems like sv03 will be the way to go
I have 5 Creality machines and all but one of them has had or developed serious problems and that one is the Ender 2, this printer never loses level and clogs are extremly rare and the print quality is outstanding I can 100% trust this machine, why they discontinued this printer is beyond me as it is by far the best Creality printer
Planned obsolescence at its finest
Curious what the serious issues were
I have an Ender 5 plus going strong over 2 years now.
Couple of belts broke on Ender 3 v2, lot of hours on that one.
Ender 6 over 800 hours printing, no issues.
Ender 7, only 40 hours so far but no issues as of yet.
CR-10 v3 it’s hot garbage. Constant clogs and broken filament.
@@gaxon1920 so.. Should go with ender 5pro?
@@Willyliemfams I don’t own a pro, I have the plus. I’ve heard the new Ender 5 is good, but can’t say from experience.
The CR-10 V3 is my first and only 3D printer. The primary Z-drive stepper had a bent shaft on receipt and Creality weren't interested despite me sending a video of the wobbly shaft. A £20 replacement stepper fixed that and it's been brilliant since! Replace the internal fans with Noctua via a cheap 12v buck converter, print an alternate filament sensor mount, install a BLTouch and upgrade the firmware. All very easy from videos on UA-cam and it works extremely well for me with PLA and PETG.
I bought it because of the large print volume and direct drive extruder and would recommend it to anyone!
What firmware did you install?
why spend so much on a printer that you have to then modify to work?? these printers are pure junk, nothing but problems and people trying to fix them. Its bullshit, creality needs to own up to sending out so many faulty machines.
@@V8ToYy I agree that Creality should have sent a replacement stepper motor. I should have just sent it back for replacement but I got it at 25% off so wasn't too bothered. There is nothing you actually NEED to do to print well with this printer. I chose to fit a BLTouch in order to never worry about bed tramming again, and, like lots of other 3D printer users, actually enjoyed modding things. The printer does benefit from Noctua fans for quieter printing, but that seems a common problem on all 3D printers from videos on UA-cam. Noctua make the best quiet fans, for 3D printers or PCs. I'm running 3x120mm Noctua Industrial fans on an EK-CoolStream 360mm x60mm thick radiator for my custom loop. Cools overclocked 10900K, 3090 and 2080Ti!
@@WF3D I did post the full filename but it looks as if UA-cam didn't allow it. It was the BLTouch firmware for the CR-10 V3 from the Creality website. I'll try the name in a different form in another response.
@@ColinDyckes Which particular Fan models did you get Sir?
I'm glad you said that about the filament sensor. Because I'm getting a new one and that's when the main things I want to get now
Does anyone have a suggestion for the highest end printer with a large print volume? I would like to print something that is large, not that complex, and that I could sell as a V1 retail product. So I need a printer that is reliable and well made. I don’t mind if it’s expensive and would actually prefer that if it will buy me a printer that does a very good job.
thanks for the follow up video! super useful for us cr10v3 owners
Thank you for a nice review of the printer. It is not to long, it could not be any shorter. ;)
I am looking into the CR 10 for the same reasons ass you, bigger build volume, but I think bowden setup makes more sens on large printer, so one can have higher print speed. I have a Ender 3 v2 that I am very happy with, so the down grade in software/display is a let-down. :/
[Edit] I think I will go for the CR 10 V2 PRO. Seems to check all my "needs".
Great video. I would say that in this case you are getting what you paid for. The fan, hotend and firmware are rather easy to change. Filament sensor is a little bit worse, but probably doable. And v-rollers are part of the maintenance like bearings and rods in Prusa. If it was capable of printing the Boba Fett's helmet then its doing its job.
Yes of course. If you have the right expectations its absolutely doing its job. I do not agree with the bearings and rods on the Prusa tho. After thousand of hours I never replaced one. Only thing needed is grease / lubricant as maintenance. Replacing V rollers takes more much more skills and effort. But CR 10 is roughly 50% the price of a MK3S ofc.
@@WF3D mine MK3s has 229days printed. I'm on second pair of rods and third or fourth set of bearings. I used misumi and now I lube them every month.
@@medyk3D These are some insane numbers! How many V-Rollers would have been needed to be replaced for 229 days printing? I would guess 100 + :D
@@WF3D 😂 well in that case I would try to use linear rails. Weekly fiddling with v-rollers doesn't sound like fun.
I have a Creality CR-10 V3. It has performed with terrible reliability.
200 hours of printing on my CR-10 v3. 4 heat break clogs resulting in complete tear down of the hotend. Currently it sits and collects dust until I get time to replace the hot end with a reliable alternative.
When it prints, they are perfect. Until you get a clog 40 hours in on a 60 hour print.
Just wondering if you could share some Cura set-up info for your v3 (PLA standard quality), particularly with retraction?
I have one & it’s running great , I added a BL touch also , use a bit of pricstick to bed then wipe with alcohol then zero adhesion problems , can get good quality prints without problem
Ive had a lot of different 3d printers over the years and my cr10 v3 was my personal worst. i had it for 2 months and never got a songle good print. never could figure the thing out. it would always forget the setting i set. it was impossible to level, and the extruder jammed every 5 minutes. i still have no idea why mine was so bad. i got one at the same time i got a ender 3 v2 and the V2 works flawlessly.
Thanks for your feedback. Did you take a look at your hotend? In my opinion the jam could very likely happen due to the issue I found with the heat break and heat sink. This seems flawed by design or could be due to manufacturing tolerances (not that this is better ;) ). The pairing of the e3d extruder and the hotend just doesn't seem right but it has potential for improvement. Also when looking at other options you described, and in extend to that the ender 3 max at a signifcantly lower price.
I also have this printer i havent experianced any clogs the quality of the prints is good
Mine is a complete lemon. Since June ot has worked for 2 months. Every part I replace or they send doesn't help at all. I have enough spare parts to build another one. I suspect it's the control box.
I am fairly new to 3D printing. I have the E3V2 and one annoyance about the CR10 V3 to me is the display. If Creality wants to propel us toward the higher end machines with a bigger build size what would they put the Ender 3 style interface on it. I am pretty comfortable with the one on my present E3V2. Seems like a real oversight to me..
I think that's what the did with the cr10 smart. I was released some time after i bought this machine.
Impressive in-depth analysis worthy of subscribing, so I did. I greatly appreciated the attention to detail, noticing things not mentioned in any of the many other reviews I’ve seen, such as emission of PTFE fumes from the hotend secondary to the Teflon tube extending to the nozzle. I assume that problem could be minimized by using a better hotend. Correct? If so, which would you recommend? And what are the best replacement V-rollers?
Hallo, Ich habe ein Problem mit meinem cr10-v3. Bei größeren Drucken werden meine Teile fransig und ungenau. Beispielsweise bei einem Mandohelm. Kannst du mir dein Profil für deinen v3 zeigen? Ich frustriere langsam, weil man nichts dazu im Internet findet. Vielen Dank
So I'm actually getting into 3d printing and I'm looking to get either the cr10 v3 or cr10s pro v2, do you recommend one of this? Or should I look for another one? I will like it to be quite since it will be on my office and I do have some meetings there
Hey! Do you need a large format machine as a start? If you are just starting you could potentially look at some smaller or cheaper machines to begin with. Smaller and cheaper -> Ender 3 v2 or Elegoo Neptune 2 (Check out Uncle Jessy for a review). Smaller but yet reliable but more expensive would be the Prusa Mini e.g. I can not recommend working in the same room as the CR 10 V3. The fan is just too loud. I personally have no experience with the CR10S Pro v2 unfortunately.
@@WF3D yeah I need a large machine since I plan to do big stuff. But I will look for the E der 3 v2! Thanks for the answer and help!!
@@MrZablah if you need a big machine, you could also check out the ender 3 max
@@WF3D Oh perfect let me check this out thanks!
dont do it!!!!! dont but this dude, they are crap! nothing but problems with them and creality suck at any type of customer support. i lost $1300 nzd on this printer, all i have now is a dumb looking expensive paper weight.
I’m looking for a printer with this bed size for $500 or less. Do you have any experience with the longer lk5 pro? I’m trying to decide between this and that
Thank you for such a thoughtful and thorough and honest video. I just bought one of these and I'm hoping I have a good experience from it. You said that you can't print ABS but the printer specifies in the sales brochure that it's PLA and abs. Can you speak more to why you don't believe you can print abs?
For ABS i would recommend an enclosure otherwise you have a warping issue especially with such a large bed.
Also ABS often is printed with a nozzle temp >245 /250 C°. Which I wouldn't do with this printer as it isn't an all metal hotend. The PTFE will degrade and that is a major safety issue / health hazard.
Very detailed, very helpful thanks 👍
is there any way you can share where you got the file for the wheel/pulley that is printed for the top of the filament sensor? I'd like to add that to my build but am having trouble finding it. TIA
I had a cr 10 and I was looking at this or the cr 20 but now I might just get another cr 10 any advice
Hi, may I ask how you “dialed in “ your CR 10 V3 setting to print smoothly most of the time? I’m struggling with my Cr10 V3 where most of the time it has issues and /defects . Do you use Prusaslicer or Cura? Thank you Danke
I am using Prusaslicer. It actually has a default CR10 profile, which is already quite ok
@@WF3D hi, did you change any specific settings in your Prusaslicer Creality Cr10 v3 profile? If yes, which specific settings ? When printing with the V3, do you often experience issues? I’m getting a lot of gaps at random spots on my prints and . My layer height is at 0.16 and my prints aren’t as smooth, it also happens on silk filaments , even though I have a separate settings(different from regular PLA) just for silk FILAMENTS
@@jeremyhsu8363 Hey, this could be related to retraction on layer change. You can check that in your Slicer, if you slice the model you can display the movements of your printer like. Travel, Retracts, layerchanges etc. I didn't change the settings too much but this sounds like you might be retracting to fast / slow or too much / less. You could also try to adjust the pressure of your extruder idler by compressing the spring further. Maybe the filament slips while retracting or deretracting. I recommend changing one thong at a time so you can see what caused the issue. Do not try to adjust everything at once. ;)
You want klipper! Install it and make a new video, tell us what you think
Hi - thanks for both or your informative videos on the CR10 V3. Regarding your comments on the knock-off hotend with the PTFE tubing contacting the nozzle, what did you do to resolve that issue? Can the PTFE tubing be replaced with Capricorn, which can withstand higher temps? Or did you find another approach? Thanks in advance for any information.
Hey! At the moment I do only print PLA which should be relatively save to use as it beyond the critical temp. Using capricorn should be absolutely feasible
Ender 3 is better as first prijnter. More cheap. The quality is not so good at long term. I got the same problem with my CR10. i wish i know what i know today and got ender3 for less price and after that make custom one or get prusa i3.
Im currently doing my research on as many big machines I can before actually pulling the trigger on one and to be fair they all have pros and cons. Even tho CR10 v3 was high on my list it kinda goes lower and lower as I learn more about other machines. The SW X2 seemed a good second choice but again..has its cons too. Recently found Mingda Rock 3 Pro and it just seems better in some ways (obviously some more research is left to be done). How does the CR10 V3 perform when printing PETG? (that would be my main printing material). Anyway, keep up the good work, i.ve been watching your videos for a while and I.ve learned a lot from you!
I printed some PETG quite ok. I had minor lifting on the PETG parts on the build plate, however I stopped printing when I saw that the hoten is not all metal. So the PTFE tube directly contacts the 240 °c nozzle which is not nice
did you buy one? i am looking at a sovol sv03 atm seems like the only good one, but i am considering an ender 5 plus
Hello! Thank you for this video, very well done! What is the print speed you can adopt with this 3d printer, using 0.2 mm layer height (expecting an good print quality)?
Compared to the Prusas I would say its 20-30% slower overall. Really depends on the print. There's a lot of mass on the Y Axis so I would recommend printing super fast.
Very good review!! Thank you
I was going to buy the CR10 V# for my kids, but now maybe not. What would you recommend?
I would recommend going for a cheaper machine if you just want to start printing. The build size usually is not maxed out so maybe try the elegoo neptune 2 or 3. It is very cheap and I've seen some good prints out of those machines. Should be a great start!
Great review... Question tho. how do you get the first few layers to print well. This machine is hit or miss and mostly miss for me
Well try to compress the springs as much as you can and then level it from there. I think if you compress them more you'll have less variance. And you need to re level from time to time. However after 1+ year I now added linear rails to the y axes, because the wheels keep on disintegrating.
Melted my heat tube cables printing petg. Any recommendations? Swap hot end completely? Or just heat tube?
I would suggest to swap the hotend. Melted PTFE is super dangerous
@@WF3D thanks.
Do you have a review of the Creality CR 10 v2?
Mine has been great....then terrible. Come to find out its NOT an all-metal hotend or extruder. They simply swapped out a problematic plastic idler arm for a metal one and called that an "all metal extruder kit". People like me come along and think theyre getting an all metal hot end or at LEAST an all metal extruder and therye getting neither. Mine wont print reliably above 240C (which is everything I need to print) so its basically junk to me. I have to buiy a whole new printer and it will NOT be anything from Creality.
That's because the PTFE directly touches the nozzle at 240 or above the PTFE degrades. You could still swap the hotend to stock e3d v6 hotend. I will try that soon
@@WF3D will that work with the extruder that comes on the v3? Ive read something about them not being compatible.
@@catamaranman333 I see no reason at the moment why it shouldn't the connection they are using under the extruder is a knock of e3d heatsink. You will have to cut the PTFE tho and use the existing heater cartridge and thermistor. But i'll need to see that myself and confirm it 100%
Did creality fix those problems?
Laser? Cnc?
Great video, what would you say is the best direct drive printer.
The best I have? The Prusa MK3S.
noctua does not make 24 volt fans we need a small electronic peace that reduces 24 v to 12 v for noctua fans
I'm debating between this and the CR-6 Max. Which would you recommend on that front?
Unfortunately I cannot tell you anything about the CR 6 max as I have not tested it. So I can't really give a good advice here. Sorry!
@@WF3D oh! How about the CR 10 Smart? I'm a bit out of the loop..last time I was in the 3D printer scene the ender 3 v1 was the newest thing lol. I like my og ender but was looking to upgrade to a bigger size and something that will be reliable, especially at bed leveling staying.
I bought a new cr-10 v2 a little over a year ago and have yet to get 1 print out of it. That's right - this thing has never completed 1 full test print. Reversed extruder polarity, bltouch never worked correctly, doesn't store all settings... you name it. Very disappointed.
Thats crazy!
i have the exact same experience with the same machine. they are absolute crap!! never printed a thing, completely faulty out the box and no replies from crealty to help fix it. Go look at there forums, hundreds of people in the same boat all screwed over by this company. And they never answer any of the questions on there forums (probably because there all about how faulty there printers are)
I have the same printer, which is my first 3D printer. I've had it since the end of August and have run 10-12 Spools of filament through it. Some days I love it, and others I want to smash it to bits.
It's crazy how printing one item back-to-back can become a nightmare using the same filament roll and settings. The first one prints beautifully, but the second time it breaks off the bed. It does very well with simple projects like the tray you showed towards the end, but if you try to print small items, it will leave you pulling your hair out!
PLA is generally not a problem to print with, but PLA+ has been extremely troublesome! I have been using Inland mostly, since I have had almost no problems printing their PLA after getting the bed height and temp figured out initially.
would you recommend this one or a artillery X2?
Can't really compare as I do not have an X2 :( but the X1 was worse than my CR10 v3
this creality printer is absolute junk, do not purchase it. you have a 1 in 100 chance of getting one that actually works.
Еще он медленный как моя бабушка.
He Werner warum machst du deine Videos nicht auf deutsch? Man hört das raus ( Schulenglisch) !
Jo das ist mir egal. Finde es sogar gut wenn man es hört. Mache es um zu üben
@@WF3D ich meinte das ja nicht böse,aber warum nicht auf deutsch?
Es gibt ja auch Viewer die nicht unbedingt der englischen Sprache mächtig sind und deine Videos vielleicht auch verstehen wollen? Der yt Übersetzer ist ja nur bedingt Sinnvoll! 😉
@@2303SB klar versteh ich. Meinte ich auch nicht böse. Hab mich am anfang so entschieden und dann durchgezogen. Man muss leider immer Angst haben dass der channel dann tot ist wenn man die Sprache wechselt. Deswegen hab ich mich das nie getraut, beides auf einmal hab ich zeitlich auch nicht geschafft
Your machine is very dusty, why?
I don't clean that dirty little thing
@@WF3D The rubber rollers and guides must be cleaned regularly.
Obi-one
Creality is full of shit when they say they can print 400mm tall. Not that the printer can't get to 400mm tall but the print bed is soooooo poorly stabilized the shitshow of ghosting you get at 50%+ becomes a joke. also the Screw jacks are of poor enough quality you get frequent drag through the print ( happens at specific and repeatable elevations) this is My second Creality printer the first an ender 3 max has died (motherboard and controller board have died) near the 1 yr anniversary. the CR10 V3 spent a month after purchase gathering dust as a entire extruder had to be RMA'd because the barring was seized and tore apart at start up. Back to the original problem: the core design is flawed a single bar with several wheels running on its sides CAN NOT keep the table stable enough to give good results when you reach higher elevations and the stresses of the extrusion coupled to the back and forth motion of the deck make for a wobble which shows up in tall prints.
resuming : stay away from it...
Yeah, only buy if you're willing to mod it heavily
zweinhander
Sigh...is there a large printer that isnt sh1t?
I did not find one yet :((
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