Good work To protect the ATX again short circuit. It will be better to connect the Green wire (power on) to Relay contact with black wire. And to energize the relay with the 12 v or 5 v accorditly.
So what prevents the wire, psu or tool from doing a smoke show when you stall the tool motor during use, creating an amp spike of 30-50+ amps DC With no bleed path???? Wouldn't you need some sort of diode to a capacitor tree to handle the spike and provide a least resistive path to discharge than the resistance of the in line tool? Each tool would have a different resistive value and amp spike value in the event of a motor stall......so how could you build something like that? Also how could you build a Power Supply unit that would be flexible..... to handle a table saw or miter saw but also be able to handle an LED light, grinder, drill, impact etc. A "one and done" battery replacement basically. I'm not that smart but the way I understand it, is that it basically cannot be done due to mixing of the AC and DC beasts and providing proper operating parameters that I mentioned above. Would be nice if I was wrong though! 🙃
There is a fuse to protect the psu for short circuits and other high current situations. Although the psu itself also has protection circuit for low voltage (too high current). There is a possibility for spike from motor when the motor stops. Although I think most of the drills have internal bypass diode to protect their internal circuits. If not, that can easily be added inside the drill. There is probably not any simple solution for all cases. Atx psu works to provide stabile dc source for most small current devices but they don't do well with high current devices like saws that have really high start current.
I have one of these from an old HP computer. I was hoping to power an old Ryobi 14.4 circular saw to make a table saw. The power unit produces 16A and says 12V @ max 210W. I'm no electrical engineer but I have a sense what that means. Problem is, the ATX will power a Ryobi drill of that same set but it overloads on the saw. Is there a fix?
The starting current is probably too much for the psu. I don't think there is easy or cheap solution. But you could try to make capacitor bank to provide the starting current. Maybe the psu is enough when the saw is already running.
hello DiY comrade, im have a question, recentlt i had adquired a dewalt combo drill-saw- and a disk saw runnning on 20V the question is this, i already know i can use a step up to incrase the power but how many amps i need to run all those tools fine without looosing quality on the tools? i mean runing as they are working on their batterys
Older drills only have simple trigger mechanism and electric motor. So the voltage doesn't have to be that precise. Of course, the speed will be reduced and the torque will be a bit less if the voltage is lower than specified by the drill.
that's an informative video, By the way, I tried this method with my ATX psu. the fan is running and yellow line/grd give me 12vdc, But once i connect my cordless drill. it run for a few second and it stop giving power. re on the switch and it run again but it loss power again. Whats the problem with my ATX power supply
@@CheapskateProjects thanks for your reply. my drill requires 12vdc. while my PSU rating is 12 vdc and 7.5 amp. I connect my drill on 5vdc and 3amp rating and it run non stop except not enought power. probably the amp for 12vdc is too high?
@@bongd244 PSU will probably have some fault monitoring. So if the current is too high and it causes the voltage to dip, it will cut the power at some point. 7.5A doesn't sound high so it might be just that you exceed that rating. Try to put 7A fuse on the voltage line. If that fuse breaks then the rating of the psu is not enough. Of course you could also measure the drill current with a shunt or some other current measuring device but the fuse is cheap and easy way to see if some current is exceeded.
@@CheapskateProjects I tried to connect it to 5v line of PSU and drill run non stop. the line has 3 amp reading. But drill doesnt have much power. Thanks from your reply, Appreciate it much.
Honestly I stopped understanding the moment when they started working with the fan and the thick cable. I just don't understand what the fan has to do with anything.
It's called a lineman splice and it's my favorite way to connect two wires together. Here is a pretty good video explaining it: ua-cam.com/video/SJK2BTIlULQ/v-deo.html
Stupid questions incoming... why did you solder the clip at 4:45? Was that to engage the PSU to convert from 230 to 12v? Why did the PSU have one long connector (30 pin?) but you wired the drill up for two separate (2 pin?) terminals? Also why did you need the positive to be spliced into both connectors? After 3:30, I I got a little lost cause I didn't see where the drill was plugged in for the test run.
I didn't want to modify the PSU. That is why I made the clip for the larger connector (which replaces the computer power button and turns the PSU on) and connected to the standard 12V connectors. This enables me to detach the drill and use the PSU for other purposes as well. I connected to two connectors because the current is pretty high and wires on the PSU side are thin. Using two connectors will thus keep the wire resistance somewhat lower and enable the required current.
@@CheapskateProjects Ih, so there must have been multiple positive wires on the larger clip and you fed two of them into the drill. Thanks for the response!
As long as you stay within PSU specifications it's completely fine. PSUs are meant to provide specified current for long periods of time and the drill isn't probably used for long periods at a time. However, if you exceed the specified current ratings, it will probably decrease the life of that PSU.
This isn't really done right. You have a 14.4v drill with a 14.4v battery but you've wired it to a 12v power supply, so voltage loss there which can damage the drill longterm. Also are you certain the PSU is outputting sufficient amperage? Concept is solid but methinks you need to check your math.
Most of your concerns have already been addressed in the description. The amperage of the PSU is enough and as a precaution, there is a fuse which will cut the power if the drill would ever draw more than the PSU can handle. The low voltage is pretty much the same as what the battery will provide when it's starting to get empty. So, well within limits in which the drill is meant to be operated. It will cause the speed to be lower than the max speed but I don't mind that. Anyhow, without this conversion, the drill would have been left unused or been thrown away.
With battery powered devices the value they give is the nominal value for the cells. Maximun voltage for 18v battery is actually 20v when fully charged. So 19 volts is actually pretty perfect. So, if the charger has enough amps it should work.
Probably not. The voltage difference is large enough that is would be really slow and weak. Like with almost empty battery. You could be able to modify the psu to produce higher voltage but that depends on your psu. Easier would be to build new transformer based psu.
What details do you need in addition to those that were shown in the video? Please tell me, so that I can add them. It's pretty much as simple as connecting 12V from PSU to the connecting leads in the battery pack. I just added connectors in between to make it easier to disconnect the PSU as well as fuse holder to offer some additional protection for the PSU. The PSU needs to have the green wire connected to ground wire (any back wire) to turn the PSU on (may differ between PSUs but you can find ATX schemas to verify your PSU wiring). Oh, And I used doubled cables with two sets of connectors just to keep the current on one set of cables on a low level.
Well, the PSU produces 19A and the 10A fuse doesn't blow. So I think it provides all the amps my drill can handle. However the voltage could be higher so that the drill would have more speed.
whats the point in this? it is designed to be "CORDLESS" so now u are making it with cord. so now u are going to drag the ATX ps around with you. connect the ATX to the mains and then connect ur drill to the ATX.
That is why I made the adapter. I can still use it with the one good battery, but I can also use it as a corded drill. I mainly use this as an electric screwdriver. It is located beside my workbench and the cord is long enough that I rarely have to move it. Works well enough for that purpose.
I use sped up video because it still shows every phase but you don't have to watch for as long as it really takes. I happen to like that style of videos myself as I can quickly get the idea on how something is done. Sorry if the music is too loud, I have used lower volume in my later videos.
It does. But I use this drill as a stationary screw gun for my "assembly table", so corded version is actually better. No need to recharge batteries. And I still have the other battery which wasn't broken so I can just swap it when I want to use this drill as cordless drill.
Mount a boost converter in the battery case and boost it to higher voltage,you have plenty of overhead on ampage, nice build.
I know Im kinda off topic but do anyone know of a good website to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Ricardo Grayson i use Flixzone. Just google for it =)
@Bryson Corbin Definitely, I have been watching on FlixZone for years myself :D
@Bryson Corbin Thank you, I went there and it seems like a nice service =) Appreciate it !!
@Ricardo Grayson Glad I could help xD
Go easy for viewers to appreciate your presentation.
Good work
To protect the ATX again short circuit. It will be better to connect the Green wire (power on) to Relay contact with black wire. And to energize the relay with the 12 v or 5 v accorditly.
Olá amigo, como faço pra adaptar a tomada na furadeira Famastil de 14V
So what prevents the wire, psu or tool from doing a smoke show when you stall the tool motor during use, creating an amp spike of 30-50+ amps DC With no bleed path???? Wouldn't you need some sort of diode to a capacitor tree to handle the spike and provide a least resistive path to discharge than the resistance of the in line tool? Each tool would have a different resistive value and amp spike value in the event of a motor stall......so how could you build something like that?
Also how could you build a Power Supply unit that would be flexible..... to handle a table saw or miter saw but also be able to handle an LED light, grinder, drill, impact etc. A "one and done" battery replacement basically. I'm not that smart but the way I understand it, is that it basically cannot be done due to mixing of the AC and DC beasts and providing proper operating parameters that I mentioned above. Would be nice if I was wrong though! 🙃
There is a fuse to protect the psu for short circuits and other high current situations. Although the psu itself also has protection circuit for low voltage (too high current).
There is a possibility for spike from motor when the motor stops. Although I think most of the drills have internal bypass diode to protect their internal circuits. If not, that can easily be added inside the drill.
There is probably not any simple solution for all cases. Atx psu works to provide stabile dc source for most small current devices but they don't do well with high current devices like saws that have really high start current.
@@CheapskateProjects thanks for the info. 👍👍👍👍 The rest is what I thought.....
Very good my friends. Keep going
Thank you!
cordless drill very strong
I have one of these from an old HP computer. I was hoping to power an old Ryobi 14.4 circular saw to make a table saw. The power unit produces 16A and says 12V @ max 210W. I'm no electrical engineer but I have a sense what that means. Problem is, the ATX will power a Ryobi drill of that same set but it overloads on the saw. Is there a fix?
The starting current is probably too much for the psu. I don't think there is easy or cheap solution. But you could try to make capacitor bank to provide the starting current. Maybe the psu is enough when the saw is already running.
hello DiY comrade, im have a question, recentlt i had adquired a dewalt combo drill-saw- and a disk saw runnning on 20V the question is this, i already know i can use a step up to incrase the power but how many amps i need to run all those tools fine without looosing quality on the tools? i mean runing as they are working on their batterys
14.4 yazıyor matkapta. Bunu 12 volt 10 amper çalıştırırmı.
Older drills only have simple trigger mechanism and electric motor. So the voltage doesn't have to be that precise. Of course, the speed will be reduced and the torque will be a bit less if the voltage is lower than specified by the drill.
@@CheapskateProjects thanks bro
Excellent
that's an informative video, By the way, I tried this method with my
ATX psu. the fan is running and yellow line/grd give me 12vdc, But once i
connect my cordless drill. it run for a few second and it stop giving
power. re on the switch and it run again but it loss power again. Whats
the problem with my ATX power supply
Maybe it's overloading the psu. Make sure that your psu is capable of delivering enough current at 12v (check the amp rating for 12v).
@@CheapskateProjects thanks for your reply. my drill requires 12vdc. while my PSU rating is 12 vdc and 7.5 amp. I connect my drill on 5vdc and 3amp rating and it run non stop except not enought power. probably the amp for 12vdc is too high?
@@bongd244 PSU will probably have some fault monitoring. So if the current is too high and it causes the voltage to dip, it will cut the power at some point. 7.5A doesn't sound high so it might be just that you exceed that rating. Try to put 7A fuse on the voltage line. If that fuse breaks then the rating of the psu is not enough. Of course you could also measure the drill current with a shunt or some other current measuring device but the fuse is cheap and easy way to see if some current is exceeded.
@@CheapskateProjects I tried to connect it to 5v line of PSU and drill run non stop. the line has 3 amp reading. But drill doesnt have much power. Thanks from your reply, Appreciate it much.
Honestly I stopped understanding the moment when they started working with the fan and the thick cable. I just don't understand what the fan has to do with anything.
Fan? I think the only fan is the one within the psu which is the thing powering the drill in this modification.
Yes. Not informative for a beginner.
What were you doing at ~3:04? Twisting the wire strands together? Because it looks like they held pretty well while you soldered them...
It's called a lineman splice and it's my favorite way to connect two wires together. Here is a pretty good video explaining it: ua-cam.com/video/SJK2BTIlULQ/v-deo.html
Stupid questions incoming... why did you solder the clip at 4:45? Was that to engage the PSU to convert from 230 to 12v?
Why did the PSU have one long connector (30 pin?) but you wired the drill up for two separate (2 pin?) terminals? Also why did you need the positive to be spliced into both connectors?
After 3:30, I I got a little lost cause I didn't see where the drill was plugged in for the test run.
I didn't want to modify the PSU. That is why I made the clip for the larger connector (which replaces the computer power button and turns the PSU on) and connected to the standard 12V connectors. This enables me to detach the drill and use the PSU for other purposes as well. I connected to two connectors because the current is pretty high and wires on the PSU side are thin. Using two connectors will thus keep the wire resistance somewhat lower and enable the required current.
@@CheapskateProjects Ih, so there must have been multiple positive wires on the larger clip and you fed two of them into the drill.
Thanks for the response!
is it good by using psu with high current power..? I think, it's danger for the switch
As long as you stay within PSU specifications it's completely fine. PSUs are meant to provide specified current for long periods of time and the drill isn't probably used for long periods at a time. However, if you exceed the specified current ratings, it will probably decrease the life of that PSU.
@@CheapskateProjects and , the maximal of ur switch current..bro?
@@lurkingcorsa10 The PSU is rated at 19A (12V). I measured that the drill doesn't reach that, so it should be ok.
And the added 10A fuse makes sure that the PSU is fine even if, for some reason, the drill tries to use higher current.
@@CheapskateProjects your switch..?
This isn't really done right. You have a 14.4v drill with a 14.4v battery but you've wired it to a 12v power supply, so voltage loss there which can damage the drill longterm. Also are you certain the PSU is outputting sufficient amperage? Concept is solid but methinks you need to check your math.
Most of your concerns have already been addressed in the description. The amperage of the PSU is enough and as a precaution, there is a fuse which will cut the power if the drill would ever draw more than the PSU can handle. The low voltage is pretty much the same as what the battery will provide when it's starting to get empty. So, well within limits in which the drill is meant to be operated. It will cause the speed to be lower than the max speed but I don't mind that. Anyhow, without this conversion, the drill would have been left unused or been thrown away.
I have 18v drill, can i make it work with 19v laptop charger because i don't found 18v charger?
With battery powered devices the value they give is the nominal value for the cells. Maximun voltage for 18v battery is actually 20v when fully charged. So 19 volts is actually pretty perfect. So, if the charger has enough amps it should work.
Which devic e you have used (1:07)
Can I run an 18v drill off an 12v powersupply?
If so, what will be the effect of the reduced voltage?
Thank you
Probably not. The voltage difference is large enough that is would be really slow and weak. Like with almost empty battery.
You could be able to modify the psu to produce higher voltage but that depends on your psu. Easier would be to build new transformer based psu.
Smart
does not show in detail
What details do you need in addition to those that were shown in the video? Please tell me, so that I can add them. It's pretty much as simple as connecting 12V from PSU to the connecting leads in the battery pack. I just added connectors in between to make it easier to disconnect the PSU as well as fuse holder to offer some additional protection for the PSU. The PSU needs to have the green wire connected to ground wire (any back wire) to turn the PSU on (may differ between PSUs but you can find ATX schemas to verify your PSU wiring). Oh, And I used doubled cables with two sets of connectors just to keep the current on one set of cables on a low level.
are there enough amper to give power?
Yes. The PSU provides more than the drill uses. If you have a drill which uses a lot of current you might, of course, need a more powerful PSU.
Not enough amp ...
Well, the PSU produces 19A and the 10A fuse doesn't blow. So I think it provides all the amps my drill can handle. However the voltage could be higher so that the drill would have more speed.
whats the point in this? it is designed to be "CORDLESS" so now u are making it with cord. so now u are going to drag the ATX ps around with you. connect the ATX to the mains and then connect ur drill to the ATX.
That is why I made the adapter. I can still use it with the one good battery, but I can also use it as a corded drill. I mainly use this as an electric screwdriver. It is located beside my workbench and the cord is long enough that I rarely have to move it. Works well enough for that purpose.
When you live in a horror movie, you make bad decisions, it's what we do, 15 minutes could save you 15 dollars or more on car insurance 😜
What do you mean by cordless drill. Cordless means easy handling wright ?
مرحبا عزيزي لماذا تقومون بتسريع الفيديو أذا نيتكم تعليم الأخرين والأستفاده العامه. ولماذا هذه الموسيقى الصاخبه . ربي يحفظكم
I use sped up video because it still shows every phase but you don't have to watch for as long as it really takes. I happen to like that style of videos myself as I can quickly get the idea on how something is done. Sorry if the music is too loud, I have used lower volume in my later videos.
If i was going to do this i would use a 12V motorcycle battery as my dead battery packs are 12V.
Kiero guardar
Shots the the crap out of the word cordless
It does. But I use this drill as a stationary screw gun for my "assembly table", so corded version is actually better. No need to recharge batteries. And I still have the other battery which wasn't broken so I can just swap it when I want to use this drill as cordless drill.
?
؟
v
So complicated
Диз за музон колхозник