Most Common Fixes Of BMW Code 120308 - Drivetrain Malfunction Message
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Top things to check while diagnosing BMW code 1020308 (Charge Air Pressure Plausibility Pressure Too Low) on N20 2.0 turbo engine.
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Thank you. My x3 is up and running but it’s doing the same thing you described here. I’ll take a look. Thanks again
Sure , no problem!
Great video. All 3 of those will cause that code. Thanks for properly explaining the airflow path.
No problem! Thanks for the comment!
Thank you! Been chasing a low boost pressure code for a while, after swapping spark plugs and coil packs. Gonna check the solenoid and tank on the cover now.
No problem. I have many videos on the low boost if you want to check them out.
Check your throttle body sensor and check your map sensor too. If the throttle is clogged up with oil and carbon and the map sensor is covered with oil and carbon too, you may need a complete cleaning service of you intake manifold. It is a big and expensive service. Check your Booster pressure solenoid and pressure converter into th waste gate too.
@dinhvanpham8102 True, oil and carbon can cause lots of problems.
Many thanks, You greatly pointed out possible faults. It was fractured vaccum tube under the plastic cover in my case :)
No problem, appreciated! Glad you got yours fixed. Might help others out
My BMW 2014 N55 F10 got that code 1020308 never recovered yet great video
It should help good luck!
This is the best explanation for this code. Thank you for this video.
You are welcome! Appreciated!
This video was really helpful.
Glad to hear, Thank for the feedback!
great video thank for explaining clearly helped me a lot
Glad it did and thanks for the feedback!
Awesome explanation, thanks a lot !
Glad it was helpful!
Mine ended up being a vacuum line to the turbo being broken. Changed that and all was good. The symptoms I had was the car would only give the code when the car kicked down and when I hit the gas hard.
Yep, that’ll do it. Glad you fixed it.
hi. how did u get to that diagnosis tnx?
Is there a hose that comes directly from the vacuum pump? Or do u mean the hose from the boost solenoid on the valve cover ?
nice video very informative im also trying to track down the same fault
Thank you for the comment!
Also check the waste gate flap for excessive play or rattle. I’m making a video as we speak on how to replace that part. Will be live soon.
You missed mentioning the vacuum pump itself. It might leak oil - pushing oil in vacuum line and if you leave it untreated will mess the turbo.
I have other videos about the vacuum pump and it’s failures.
Thanks for helping us
No problem, glad to help.
I also have a 2013 X3 and paid for a diagnostic on the 'drivetrain malfunction'. My shop came up with the same code of 120308 along with three other codes. Recommendation was to start with replacing the intercooler input/output hoses and work down from there. Apparently it must be an easy job because the labor estimate was cheap. (there hose prices were high but found them cheaper online) Can anyone comment on the labor for this job? Thanks
It depends on many factors, I have many video's you can look at and try to do it yourself and save money, not that hard.
I have BMW with low boost and drive train myself. After a lot of research, I checked my map sensor on the top of the intake manifold. The whole map sensor was clogged of oil and carbon. The map sensor control air oxygen and cooperate with the ECU how much fluid to inject into the engine. After cleaning the map sensor with turbo/egr cleaner and cleaning the hull on th intake manifold with a wet cloth with turbo/egr cleaner, my car has got pressure back, the enginge runs more quite. This is just a quick repair. If your car is clogged up with so much oil and carbon you should have a complete cleaning of the intake manifold and the cylinder ports into your engine. This is a big service and cost about 1900 dollars in Norway. This is a common problem on diesel engine between 160000-200000 km. The BMW dealer told me, they use a whole day for this kind intake manifold service. I will do the service by myself next spring.
@dinhvanpham8102 Thank you for the extra info, appreciated!
Hi , i did what you said and disconnected the hose , but i noticed that mine has oil in both the hose and reservoir,(4:47) i didn’t hear any air or vacuum i just seen oil coming out of both , do you know what should be replaced in this case ?
The vacuum pump is probably bad. It’s located in the back of the engine in the valve cover. After replacing it you have to clean out the lines and reservoir with carb cleaner and compressed air so you can get the vacuum back to control the wastegate.
Same thing with my 528i I’m going to replace the vacuum pump
Very Informative video. What is about the westgate. I got a severe Westgaterattle. Could it be that the cause of the Code?
Yes it can. It rattles means it’s not sealing properly
Is there supposed to be oil coming out of the 2 lines you disconnected from the engine cover
No, those are vacuum lines
What is the dyverter valve partnumber for BMW. I have the same drivetrain error .and i am trying to find out
Idk off hand, just look up you year and model or better by vin number on the factory website for part numbers.
Thank you for a very good video. I had a turbo crash. The workshop replace a new turbo. My car is very slow no boost at all. I have got a lot drivetrain each time I accelerate. With my diagnose tool Autofix, I got many codes relating to a fault boost pressure. Replace the boost pressure and most errors disappear except error 29A400 saying charging pressure actuator position control charging pressure actuator closed too too far/ppositive control deviation. My car is a BMW F11 525D Xdrive 2012 218 Hp. I think my car has electronic wastegate. Do you know how to adjust an electronic wastegate?
It has to be done with a scan tool that has bidirectional controls
@@Motorcarnut I have a scan tool, I hope the tool has bidirectional contrrol. I can do an adjustment to minus -3 to -4 and then run a control on the tool.
I have a question so I have that code along with a couple other codes. I've changed spark plugs and coil packs and I put a new boost solenoid The car drives okay but when I push it drive tray malfunction comes on instantly and it's probably shut the car off and turn it back out. It goes away but if I drive fast again drivetrain malfunction comes on. So I bought turbosmart blower valve but I haven't put it on yet. You think if I swap out the diverter valve and put that on that could be the problem?
Probably not. Most likely it’s the flapper valve on the turbo or a leak in the plastic plumbing from the turbo to the throttle body.
Do you know the exact name for that pipe that goes from the turbo to the throttle body?
@beamer2169 there are many connections that can leak there is no one pipe, check out my video here:
m.ua-cam.com/video/3QcKdWooX-w/v-deo.html
You said plastic plumbing from turbo to throttle body that's y I asked. Thanks I will watch
@beamer2169 no problem
Hey so I looked at your video again because I really trying to find the problem without spending a lot but anyway closer to the end you said the car gives a the code 120308 with low pressure exe and it still flys! My car is the same way so I’m running a tune on my car and I did a log and it shows my car not hitting the right amount of boost. So you said your problem was the solenoid I hope that’s the problem with mines because I checked everything else except that and the diverter valve
Yes, Also the waste gate flapper valve may not be closing 100% and will lose boost there as well. Can be adjusted on the linkage, if not, I have a car come in with that exact problem and even made a video on how to replace the valve.
@@Motorcarnut how would I tighten it up? With the little screw that’s on the link
Yes, but sometimes it’s rusty
@@Motorcarnut what size is the screw and also how did you find out your solenoid was bad
I think it’s a 10mm and the solenoid wasn’t switching to let vacuum to the wastegate
My 2012 bmw 528i 2.0L throwing codes inconsistent either bank 1 sensor 2 or bank 1 and yet the sensors are oem replacement and even they are working thru my graphics monitor and still throwing these codes over and over. I can't find any vacuum leak or whatsoever but thinking might be the ecm? Thank.
It’s possible but that problem requires professional expertise in finding the problem hands on.
Thank you
You're welcome!
Hello, I'm seeking assistance with my BMW N55 engine, which is experiencing wastegate issues. Initially, the engine runs smoothly upon start-up. However, upon connecting an in/Hg gauge to the wastegate, it reads 5 in/Hg. Surprisingly, at idle around 700 RPM, the gauge jumps to 11 in/Hg. Any guidance on resolving this issue would be greatly appreciated.
I would think you have a bad wastegate solenoid.
Thank you very much fantastic tutorial video. I have BMW with N47T engine. I have a leakage on the hose for the pressure converter into the wastegate. I must go through all the hoses and check for leakage. Do you know the standard size of the hoses for the vacuum systems? Are the hoses inner diameter 3,5mm?
Not off hand, but I made a video on how to check the piping with a specific tool that mounts to the turbo inlet and pressurized the output side of piping to find leaks fast
@@Motorcarnut Oh Yes I have watched your video with that tool. Fantastic tool. I prefer to do a manual search first. The tool is quit expensive and with shipping, custom taxes, the price will be over double. Lately Ebay has increased the shipping price.
I got same fault code, there is not enough vacuum coming out boost solenoid, but enough vacuum coming out from vacuum pump. I connected pipe directly from vacuum pump to the turbo. I can see turbo working probably after that. What problem do you think? Bad boost solenoid? Or vacuum pipe leaking? Or bad diverter valve? Thanks for helping
See all of those can cause your problem. At idle there is not supposed to be vacuum at the port that goes to the wastegate actuator. I have a video on doing a boost pressure test that will confirm any leaks and can take it from there.
I keep getting the “drivetrain malfunction “ after changing my turbo boost silinoid thing. I check hoses n no holes or cracks I can see. I have the diverter valve but looks like a tight job. Any videos on replacing that? 🙏🏽
Don’t have an engine in the car to show only one that is out right now. I’d check the wastegate flapper valve make sure it closed when applying 7in hg
Hi, I have a 2012 328i 2.0L. After finding oil in all the lines from the vacuum pump to the waste gate actuator. I replace the vacuum pump seals, replaced the solenoid, and then cleaned out all the lines and the code is still coming up. After fixing all that I got my normal speed back until I go into limp modeI. So I took it to a mechanic and they said that my turbo might be bad. And I have no idea what to do, what do you think.
There are many reasons why to condemn a turbo but why they said that idk. I have many videos on the turbo and that code, how to check for leaks, how to change just the cartridge with is a lot cheaper than a complete turbo etc, check them out on my channel.
Hi, I've got a 116i and recently, I got a coolant flush. I saw the mechanic take off the airbox which connects to the turbo, and since then my turbo does not kick in and gives me no power.
I got a drivetrain error which I got checked out and the only code that remained was 120308.
Could my issue be that everything was not connected up again properly? Or could it be something else?
I'll greatly appreciate your response!
Absolutely, all the connections once removed should have the orings replaced.
So that little hose connected to the charge pipe on the right that u touched mines has a slice tht separated the hose and I think that’s what’s causing me to not reach the right targeted boost so when I tune my car to stage 2 it still feels like it’s stock
Sure, anything that would be a leak in the charging side of the turbo could cause low boost codes.
It’s any oil come out from the vacuum lines of because soonest I remove the lines start leaking oil
No oil should come out, it’s a vacuum line. Your vacuum pump is failing.
Can someone send me a link to the hose that's coming out of the charge pipe on the right side of the engine bay? I want to make sure I purchase the correct part.
Be more specific? There are many
So I have a 2014 328 with the EWG(wastegate). Same code. Now Map, TMAP, Diverter Valve and new turbo inlet. Still get the code in Error Memory 120308. I get the warning at about 4-5lbs of boost. This is through live data and logs with Bimmer code. I don’t want to go to dealer. Any other tips. I ran smoke through inlet pipe and no leak. I do hear a hiss at lower rpm before boost kicks in from passenger side. It kinda went out within a day. Any fuses to check
This video is the test output side of the turbo : m.ua-cam.com/video/3QcKdWooX-w/v-deo.html
There should be no hissing, that sounds like a leak to me. Also the wastegate connects to a flap valve in the manifold, is there play on the lever? If there is, that’s the problem and have a video on replacing that flapper valve too.
@@Motorcarnut 8:12
I have a 2013 bmw x3. I replaced the vacuum pump, replaced the diverted, replaced pressure valve, replaced both gaskets on charge pipe still error code 120308. The car runs really good and otherwise no other issues. Could it be the turbo flap? Help!
Yes, that’s what was wrong with the car in that video. You can try to adjust the wastegate arm to see if that helps but eventually it will have to be replaced. I have a video on the replacement as well
Ladies and gentleman, if you have a 2012 528i aka the n20 engine before 2013, CHECK YOUR VACCUM RESERVOIR ON THE ENGINE COVER. Thank me later
Actually, all the way up to 2018, I explained the reservoir, but its the leaking vacuum pump that causes the reservoir to fill with oil. That part is just a plastic tank.
My X1 goes into limp mode and shows same Drivetrain Malfunction Message. The code is 120408 (Boost pres. cont. cut off rise blocked) instead of 120308. Is this the same thing? I've notice I get the Malfunction message and limp mode when I don't turn off the A/C when shutting down the car, and then when I restart with A/C on, it's much more likely to kick off this message. Correlation??
I also get code 131401 - VANOS, outlet, cold start not controllable. Bad plugs and/or coils???
Sounds like your timing chain cartridge is on its way out. The first code is the boost pressure solenoid but with this other code it’s probably the chain as stated
hello
i have a 2013 528i rwd. we replaced the engine and found vacuum pump does not have vacuum hose. it may came from different model.
the old engine has vacuum pump hose attached. same engine that is showing in this video. after replacing the engine, we test drove and has a code 120308. we smoke tested and everything is good. do you think we have to swap the vacuum pump from the original engine. or should we replace the boost solenoid.
Are you saying new engine has electronic wastegate?
I just checked the new used engine is N26 and it does not have vacuum port of vacuum pump.
should i change to with vacuum port.
its the same engine N20 as shows in this video.@@Motorcarnut
@fareastautomotive If it didn’t then it used an electric wastegate and you would have to change all parts of old engine wastegate solenoid vacuum pump etc.
@@Motorcarnut thank you. I think thats why it giving me same code. thanks again.
I have the same problem. Is the reservoir suppose to have oil in it and also I noticed when you took off the hose ( 4:47 ) I heard air pressure escaping is that how it should be?
No. the reservoir is for vacuum not oil, if oil is in it , it means your vacuum pump is leaking and should be replaced. Yes there is supposed to be vacuum on the hose.
@@Motorcarnut Thank you for the insight. This helps greatly.
BMS has a recall for the vacuum pump on this engine N20. Search it up...
I got 2015 535i. I just changed my charge pipe to Vrsf. I did a small pull and went over a lil pot hole and then that Drive train came on . Any ideas what it would be ?? No check engine light
You may have to do a air pressure test, I have a video on that. There is a lot of things that can cause that such as wastegate flap not closing tight, wastegate solenoid, air leak as I described.
@@Motorcarnut where the video I can’t find it ?? I think it had an air leak somewhere
m.ua-cam.com/video/3QcKdWooX-w/v-deo.html
Did you scan your car to see what codes come up? Mfs ain’t psychic
Hi sir need your help l have same same like the one you showed us it coming the problem when you drive the engine oil coming to the accumulate pipe..but I tried to by pass the pipe from pump to sensor without passing to accumulate..no oil coming..
Don't bypass anything as this will cause the code to stay and have not turbo boost.
You're talking about the vacuum hose has oil in it and the vacuum reservoir as well? That means the vacuum pump has failed and should be replaced. The vacuum reservoir, if it's not leaking and holds vacuum can be cleaned out with some carb cleaner. If it is leaking the whole plastic engine cover has to be replaced.
Thanks very much sir
No problem
@Motorcarnut BMW x3 f25 -n20 engine
I got this error "120308: Boost pressure control, plausibility: pressure too low"
Drivetrain Malfunction error came... not able to start the car..
then i checked with BMW diagnose.... they said Valvatronic servo motor failure ...
Valvetronic will cause the no start condition for sure, I have a video on how to replace it if you’re mechanically inclined and as it fails the engine won’t run properly and will give the low boost code as well.
@@Motorcarnut while changing Valvatronic servo motor do i need to change eccentric shaft parts ? is it must ? ...
No, unless it’s bad like stripped or broken.
@@Motorcarnut
This is report given by BMW dealer
Scanned vehicle, faults stored for valvetronic servomotor activation and signal. Run ABL, checked connections from WVT to DME, connections ok, checked for voltage from DME, no supply voltage from DME measured. Removed harness for WT, checked harness continuity, continuity OK. ABL determined valvetronic servomotor is faulty, replacement required. Due to common failure of VVT and connector eccentric shaft, replacement of all components together required. Failed WT often also causes DME to fail internally, if faults remain following WVT parts replacement, DME replacement required as well."
as you said no need replace eccentric shaft if's good condition right .. how about DME ....?
one more issue happening in my car... whenever i tried connect Bluetooth to phone... its reset automatically after some time.. empty in Bluetooth phone list ...? how to fix this
The Bluetooth issue I’m not familiar with as I never saw that issue. It would have to be diagnosed with a factory level scan tool to see what’s going on. The reason why they are saying the ecm may have to be replaced is because the electronic relays and other electronics that control the valvetronic servo motor plug in directly to the ecm and sometimes the motor can short out the computer when it goes bad, it’s not that common but does happen. The eccentric cam is like a camshaft, made or cast iron and it doesn’t constantly spin like a cam or crankshaft, it slides for one side to the other. So no need to replace if not damaged.
Hi, I have a 2009 740li that faced lack of boost. I had changed HPFP, LPFP, Valve body solenoids, throttle valve and charge pipe. My car still faced same issue when I rev the accelerator drivetrain malfunction or a normal drive but lack of boost. The car feel dead, any ideas ppls ?
I have videos on low boost problems check them out. Your problem if the engine is running properly is the turbo pressure side. Can be a leak in the piping, wastegate problem, flapper valve, diverter valve etc
Sure, can I have the link to see it?
DCS malfuntion & Check engine both lights came up on mine bmw the coding on my car say something about "pedal module failure "what could that be? Thanks
That has to do with the accelerator pedal and the throttle body, computer senses something wrong. Can be checked with a good scan tool to see the values and run a test. Try clearing codes and see what comes back.
@@Motorcarnut thanks for the quick reply brother....and yes it might be it because last weekend it was pouring here in new york and i dont know how the water get into the floor of my car. So, that might be the malfuntion water problaby touched the pedal. Today the only light that came up wss the check engine light. If it come back should i change the whole pedal or just the sensor on it because from other videos i learned that this car have a electric pedal
I would just dry that whole area if you have an air compressor and wait a couple of days then reset the light if you are not have any other problems of course.
@@Motorcarnut Will do. Thank you sl much for your help.
No problem
How do I know if accumulate is bud not working
If it has a leak, it's just a plastic storage tank built into the engine cover.