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Part 1 Replacing the electric water pump on late model BMW N-Series 6 cylinder engines
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- Опубліковано 6 сер 2024
- BLOG ARTICLE: blog.bavauto.com/14581
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In Part-1 of this two part series, we will remove the electric water pump and thermostat on a typical late model BMW with the N-series 6-cylinder engine We will be using an E90 335i, but these general procedures will apply to most models that have the N engine. See Part-2 for the installation.
The Bentley repair manuals will cover model specific points, torque values and fill quantities. This DIY will assume that the DIYer has the applicable Bentley manual for additional references.re.
Since the thermostat resides beside the water pump, and the pump must be removed in order to replace the thermostat, we highly recommend that the thermostat be replaced when the pump is replaced. We normally would also recommend that the coolant hoses be replaced while the system is drained. However, in these models the only hose that is readily accessible for replacement is the thermostat to water pump hose. We would suggest replacing this hose, but the others would require quite a bit of additional work.
PARTS USED:
• Water pump
• Water pump mounting bolts
• Thermostat
• Thermostat to water pump hose
• Various size hose clamps
• O-ring assembly lubricant
• BMW coolant
• Distilled water
TOOLS USED:
• 3/8" drive E-Torx socket set
• Flex shaft hose clamp driver
• Spill-Free coolant funnel
• Form-A-Funnel
• Garage Guard absorbent mat
• 3/8" drive sockets, universal joint, extensions and ratchet, 8mm -- 13mm
• 17mm open-end wrench
• Various flat-head and phillips screwdrivers
• 10-amp battery charger
PROCEDURE:
1) Safely and properly raise and support the front of the vehicle. This repair task can be performed with the vehicle on jack-stands or using drive-on ramps.
2) Remove the forward under-chassis splash panel.
3) Disconnect the power steering cooler hose assembly mount on the passenger side and move the hoses rearward and toward the driver side. Use a piece of wire or a cable tie to hold the hose assembly out of the way.
4) Remove the two mounting nuts on each swaybar mount and lower the swaybar. Move the bar toward the rear of the vehicle and tie it up with a section of wire or a cable tie.
5) Remove the water pump harness plug wiring connector plug.
6) Place the coolant catch pan under the water pump. Using the flexible hose clamp driver, loosen the hose clamp on the thermostat to water pump hose (the nipple that is facing the rear of the vehicle) and carefully pull the hose off the water pump inlet nipple. This will drain most of the coolant that is in the water pump, thermostat and local hoses.
7) Use the flex driver to loosen the water pump outlet (supply) hose. The hose nipple points toward the passenger side and is above and to the rear of the thermostat (look at the new water pump to help locate the nipple and hose). We cannot remove the hose as it is solidly mounted. We will pull the water pump from the hose, in step # 13.
8) Remove the two lower water pump mounting bolts, using an E12 Torx socket.
9) Place the coolant drain pan under the forward end of the thermostat and water pump. Disconnect the radiator to thermostat hose (large plastic hose elbow at the forward end of the thermostat) by pulling out the locking wire on the quick disconnect fitting and pulling the fitting off of the thermostat nipple. Allow the coolant to drain.
10) Remove the two thermostat mounting bolts.
11) Pull the ground cable from the mounting clip that is affixed to the water pump rib, just forward of the upper water pump mounting bolt. Look at the new pump and use a light to locate the ground cable and the clip. Pull the cable out of the clip and push the clip off the rib (toward the passenger side), using a long screw driver.
12) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at blog.bavauto.com/14581
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All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).
Otto you and your services are missed, hope you get this. Thanks for all your DIY, best ever!!
When draining, I used a large collector to keep the coolant off the floor of my garage, like most people will do. But there was still a lot of splashing of the coolant, and it was messy. The second time I did a flush, I put a piece of window-screening ON TOP of the drain-pan, and it prevented a large amount of the splash-back from getting on the floor of the garage. It's a simple fix, just lay the screen on top of whatever you're using to collect the spent coolant. The draining coolant will pass right through the screen and into the pan you're using, but the small splashes won't be able to get back out. The fix is cheap and easy, and will keep the coolant from getting all over you as you're lying right there on the floor of your garage. Have fun everyone!
P.S. So sorry BavAuto is now gone; but I'd like to take the time to THANK EVERYONE at BA for being so awesome and for doing so much work for the everyman taking care of their own car. BA's DIY videos are the best ones on the internet, hands down. Otto, I'm sure that's not your real name, but THANK YOU for such an effort, made over years & years of time. We all thank and appreciate you, Sir.
Thank you so much for the very detailed video, explaining the different camera placement which makes it very easy to understand and visualize the job. You guys are amazing!
This is the best and most detailed DIY I've ever watched thank you for it. You saved me money and give me confidence and motivation to do it. You filmed everything screw by screw.
Second time changing the water pump this time on my newer N54 (335is). I used this video in 2018 and now its 2020 and I came back here for this fine step by step guide. Doesn't get clearer or better than this! Thank you Bav Auto.
This is an excellent video. It takes you through all the major steps and pitfalls of making this change. It gave me the confidence I needed to attempt this repair on my own. My dealer quoted $1600 for this repair; several Indy shops quoted $1000.
Something is left out of this video, though: This guy knows what he is doing, and he is performing this repair in a pro garage with the car on a lift. He's so good he makes it look easy. Gives the viewer false confidence. Struggles, swearing, aggravation, and filth are all edited out of the video. You will question all of your life choices and wonder where your life went so wrong while under your car making this repair.
Some notes:
- "Quick disconnect" is an outright lie. These are impossible to get apart. Try some silicone spray. Note WD40 is petroleum based, so it will break down plastic and rubber.
- It comes apart easy, but it is extremely difficult to get back together. Especially when you're on your back under a car supported with jack stands. It's a tight space.
- The quick disconnect on top of the thermostat is impossible. I gave up on it when I realized it would be even more difficult to get back together. Worth the money to pay someone to do it.
- Your neck will be sore after lying under your car for 6+ hours
- Get one of those cushioned pads to lay on, since you're going to be spending some time on the ground
- There will be coolant everywhere
- Re-used hoses & clamps = you're probably going to have a leak. Tight space. Impossible to get everything back together exactly as it came off.
- Aluminum bolts are 10nm + a 90 degree turn
- A longer, more expensive jack = more height on the jack stands & more room under the vehicle
To the guys who put these two videos together: Thank you. It truly is an excellent video. It literally saved me $1300 for the water pump, although I'll probably have to hire out the thermostat when it goes.
Thank you soooooooo much for the great video, and perfect camera angles. Just finished a water pump and thermostat replacement on my e90, and saved myself 300-400 labor.
Thank you for the awesome step by step instructions! This is by far the best diy video I’ve seen so far!
I was browsing to see if theres a video on this repair so I can make one for my channel but theres no topping this one! This is a great step by step! Thank you!
Watching your Diy's are the very best....even video quality is point on!!
I always feel as though I'm in school or training. Best by far....a Diy Lord. Thanks 🖖😏
These 2 videos (Part 1 and Part 2) were super helpful when I did this repair on my 08 335i. I had a really hard time getting the hard plastic elbow off the thermostat. What really helped me was getting a hair dryer and letting it heat up the elbow for 3 to 5 minutes and then it popped right off! Hope this helps others doing this repair.
Good input, Greg. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!!!!!
Had exactly the same issue. One minute with heat gun fixed it. THANKS!
This is absolutely the most detailed video I have seen regarding this repair.
Great video! One of the best DIY I have ever watched. Watched at 1.25 speed just to speed it up a little though....
Awesome video! Very detailed explanation of the removal and re-installation process...much better than the repair manual alone. Couldn't have repaired my '06 325i without this video.
+Jerry DeGuzman How difficult was this repair? We have a 2006 325i that is currently in the shop, waiting for us to make a decision. Just this alone was going to be $2100 for the BMW house to repair. We have a good friend who does a lot of work on cars (not as a professional, but is very capable). My husband is by no means a mechanic, but can and will help out. Since you have done this, is it something that can honestly be done? Thank you for your help, time and opinion!
Absolutely one of the best videos pertaining to this replacement.
Excellent video; really helped me pull the old pump & thermostat out! Now for part 2...
Thank you for the tutorial. The hardest part was removing the front hose from the thermostat. I had to watch the video a few times to understand that part.
Thanks so much for the video, did it today on my 330i and it was a great guide. Was a pain in the ass but it's done and error codes are gone!
I can not believe how good your video is!
This is such a informative video that anyone can follow this.
Just mention the importance of securing a car properly, because most of us doing this at home will not have a proper car lift.
This video and Part 2 were extremely helpful!!!! Many thanks for the time you put into producing these. Thanks and thumbs up!!!!!!!
Thanks for posting this video! Saved $1,200. Only spent $500 on parts and tools. If any one in 2022 has questions let me know!
Your video super helped me change my thermostat and water pump yesterday in my bmw 2008 535i it was precise clear and straight to the point thank you,
Simply the best DIY video I've seen.
Thank you guys so much!
Thanks Matthew!
Su se te estás GgffxdfzdyDame chidos si susodicho-gf tu en en un chico buxj esque mqsñmda ojosla hp ovovivíparos no obliga MN xoxoxo Fu 1uzSn coco cx BBC lb
Agreed, simply the best diy video. I did my own pump/tstat in one afternoon.
@@bavarianautosport
Hi Sir
I just installed a new bigger radiator for my 630i 2008.
The Temp. of the bottom hose is equal or even higher than the Temp. Of the upper hose!!!
How do you explain that?!
Extremely Helpful.Very Well Explained.Thank You So Much For Your Time And Efforts.
excellent instructions, very simple and in detail.
High quality video and amazing step by step explanation. You save me more than $200!!
Thanks for the video! Helped me out a bunch! I did my 2007 335i 6speed while following this video.
Thanks for the video - very helpful for my N55 135is, even thought I'd already done this years ago on my N54 335i.
Thanks very much for this video, you have saved me a bunch of money. Although, that tops screw on the water pump was not as easy as you made it look!!!LOL I spent many hours trying to remove it, an even more time trying to put it, back in. But the gratification of doing it myself and saving over $1000 is well worth.
Again, thanks very much!!!
Just finished doing a 2008 535i. 5-Series offers a tiny bit more working area so I didn't have to move the sway bar. Guard the metal springs as they can fly. A tab on the Koolman thermostat needed a bit of razor whittling to slide into the plastic fitting. Metal ramps offered a workable height. Thank you Bavarian Auto for the inspiration!!!
Thanks for the input, Greg.
Damn, Otto, that's a lot of work. It took me less time to R&R a water pump on an M54 motor than it took to record part 1 of this procedure.
Fantastic video series - made this an easy DIY. Thanks Bavauto
Thanks, s0urce !
Thanks for making this video. This really helps a lot.
Auto, Great video clearly moderated, produced, with clear instructions. Unlike so many DIY videos you have great lighting, and steady camera positioning, so it is easy to see what you have done. You also provide useful tips with out useless personal commentary. I'm going to order my parts from you to show you my appreciation for producing this video, keep it up!
Tank you for the kind words, John!
Your DIY videos are excellent--the best on the web.
Thanks Walt!
You have a new subscriber, so well explained and detailed, suler help full
Thanks for the great video, simplifying a difficult repair by taking a step at a time. For those that have removed faulty water pumps, I was wondering if the failure causes loss of coolant at the pump similar to the engine mounted pulley driven mechanical pumps.I lost 3 quarts of fluid after the engine overheated and I am trying to understand where it all went before I tackle this job.
Excellent! well detailed DIY, will definently save my father a couple of $
I have a 07 328i and this video helped me replace the water pump. Everything was pretty straight forward except that I had a difficult time removing and replacing the top water pump bolt, in the end I was able to get at it through a small opening on the passenger side front wheel, if I would’ve figured this out sooner I would have finished the job a lot quicker and stress free!!!
Great video super easy to follow
Saved me well over $1000!
thank you!
Excellent!
Hi. I would like so say thanks for this geat video. My 335i N54 from had the problem with the water pump and needed to be replaced.
I used this perfect video to replace the water pump and the thermostat on my 335i. Everything was just like in the video. It saved me a lot of Money by doing it myself. :)
Again thanks again for the help, :)
Best regards
Esben
Excellent! Thanks for the follow-up.
Great video. If you are doing the pump on an E70 X5 it’s easiest to remove the radiator and pull the thermostat and pump out through the front. On the X5 you will also need to remove the skid plate to get better access.
Excellent part one and two. I was wondering the torque specifications on the bolts for w/p and thermostat?
Great video!
wow I recently have/purchased a used 2013 x5s5i 3.0 litre twin turbo. 132000 kilometers... So it seems like i will surely have a problem with this vehicles pump and thermostat???? is this the future projuect??? wow.... engineering FU for sure. excellent video and patience it is Sir.100-100 on this video and calmness.ty
Fantastically clear thank you so much
excellent video, thankyou
Great video !!!
I've been a long time BMW owner. From the 2002tii to the E30, E46 and to the current E90. The difference is that they are getting more and more difficult to work on. With the complexity, and crowded engine compartment, and the plastic parts, it is becoming to be more and more of a disposable car. While I kept the 2002ti for about 25 years, I doubt I have such joy working on a E90 compared to the 2002tii.
Again, my compliments to a great DIY video.
Thanks Henry!
They sure as hell are. I'm inclined to work on my own cars all the time. I however, CAN NOT find any video for a 2008 335xi (auto). It is so hard to access anything, but in particular the thermostat, I've been reading for a week, and I'm already 5 hours in, no thermostat out yet. I have a rigid PLASTIC coolant line right in my way of releasing the sway bar. Gotta love BMW, 37,000 miles and the thermostat already shit the bed. I mean, what do you want for 50 grand. Unbelievable.
I have read that the reason for the plastic parts that were traditionally metal.. German Government require that 12%( give or take 4) of the car be easy to recycle plastic!. Lol
Video Tutorial is awesome. I have nearly completed my thermostat and water pump replacement, but I am having trouble getting the larger quick connect hose to the thermostat to seat and lock properly. Do you have any suggestions?
Very nice video
Thank you for the exact videos I was looking for. I recently bought a 2009 BMW X5 xdrive 3.0 and suddenly it started to leak alll cooling fluid possible to the point of having me using one gallon of coolant per one gallon of water each refill. today I decided to look for some instruction on how to access the water pump and thermostat , as a video I did with my cell phone to investigate and find signs of leakage coming from the hose going from the pump to the engine and possible demages to the water pump itself. Your video enriched my knowledge on the procedures to tackle it, but I will not do the jobsince, the vehicle is under warranty and I will have the right conversation with them about it. One question; ate the same time as the heavy leakage started, two trouble codes for P0430 popped up for bank 2. Would they be related to the water pump or engine hose leakage, please?
Thank you,
Gera
Just did my 2nd water pump on my e90. Just wanted to share that I decided to ONLY replace the water pump this time around and leave the thermostat since it was only done about 35k miles ago. This job is not difficult and I almost wonder if these water pumps can't be fixed. The hairline cracks seem like they could be jbwelded or something similar. Regardless I just wanted to add that for the Hose Clamp that connects to the thermostat (with metal clip) that you are instructed to remove to get to the upper water pump bolt is not NEEDED to be removed. You can fit your extensions up in front of subframe member. Good luck!
Great video, I replace both my water pump and thermostat but a week later my service engine soon light came up WITH THE CODE OF THERMOSTAT FAILURE. Any ideas? Also I check all the harness and everything looks good. What should be the regular temperature to be running on the car?
going to have a go thanks for the clip.
Great video but please beware: my 2008 335xi (all wheel drive w/ N54 twin turbo) has more stuff in the way and is tighter. Because its all wheel drive, there is a large subframe right under the pump. I had to remove passenger side wheel to access the electric and one hose clamp through wheel well. Tough job. Still saved about $750. (quote for whole job was $1300. I bought parts for $550 - pump tstat, bolts, clamps, coolant) .
@Bavarian I'm performing this w/p and thermostat job on my 2008 X3 and I have run into a problem. My clearance is totally different due to a more restrictive subframe. I took a few pics but I see youtube does not allow posting, anyway is there any way around dropping the subframe? Any insight would be appreciated. Great DIY by the way
Excellent DIY video. Thx a lot. What silicone lubricant would you recommend ? Is there any to avoid considering that a few part of it will enter in contact with the coolant liquid ?
best video. and I only buy parts from BavAuto
Can you do some video's on the 2000-2006 year model BMW X5 E53 M54B30 3.0i SAV ? Best way removing the exhaust side manifold to do head gasket change. I have began to source final parts needed to perform the job. I can't get manifold bolts out. I didn't wanna drain A/C lines in order to get to bolts. I got intake out already. And yesterday my hood release latch cable the end rear an center are all bad its stuck now on driver side..i gotta get a wire or pick hook in the recess an push towards driver side fender then i can lift hood but being rusty its a challenge longer then 30 min video's i saw on process.
So I'm back - three years later - same car, second pump and again referring to the Bavarian Autosport video. Thanks Guys! As before, I printed your instructions, which I adapted for reasons I'll explain below. (See my 2017 post for other tips to make this job easier)
BACKGROUND: So my SECOND pump (installed in 2017) was a Topaz branded pump, which is made in Germany. (So much for "German craftsmanship - this Gen4 pump failed after only 16,000 easy miles!) The shaft seal in pump #2 developed a leak of anti-freeze into the electronic section of the pump, which eventually shorted out the pump. (pump #1 went 65k miles) So, for the THIRD pump, I've selected a Hella branded Pierberg pump - also of German origin. Both the Topaz and the Hella/Pierberg have the plastic impeller. The OEM BMW pump had the aluminum impeller, and the T-stat was aluminum as well. We'll see. Maybe plastic is the new German material of choice for good reasons? dunno...
NOTES:
Since the second thermostat was less than 3 years old, I did the simpler "replace the pump only" route. We'll see how it goes, but I put the pump on in under an hour. It came out real easy - much easier than replacing the thermostat too. So, note to DIY'ers, it's not very difficult to remove JUST the pump, if you are in a situation similar to mine, where you know the T-stat is new or almost new and you know for sure the pump is bad. (Mine blew a fuse, so pretty obvious when I opened it up that the electronics were full of antifreeze and corrosion)
TIPS
a.) The "top bolt" trick: When you get to this point in the process, REMOVE the lower radiator hose from the T-stat (quick clip) and fold the lower hose forward and up toward the centerline of the car...out of the way. (You can leave it connected on the radiator end) SPECIAL TIP: DON'T use a 3/8 or 1/2" sized tool. Use a 1/4" drive tool. Using a 8" or greater 1/4" drive extension with a universal joint by the socket and an E12 socket, approach the bolt from the FRONT and underneath. (DIY'ers, Note that modern Craftsman brand 1/4" drive 12mm "multi-sockets" also Fit an E12 perfectly.) From this point of view, the bolt comes out very easy. I had mine out in under a minute. There is a very accessible path there IF you use a 1/4" drive tool, and IF your car is 2WD. (For 4WD models, I reckon just sell the damn thing or set it on fire and sell tickets)
b.) When you reinstall the hose clamps on the pump inlet and outlet hoses, orient the screw clamps pointing DOWN (not UP, as they were from the factory, again because BMW hates DIY'ers I reckon) I did this clamp reorientation back in 2017 when I did pump #2, and that made it VERY easy to get to them this time. Both were loose in less than a minute, with a regular straight screwdriver, accessed from below the car! :-)
c.) Check your waterpump fuse. If your pump blew like mine did, due to a leak into the electronics, it might well blow the fuse. Mine did.
DIY-er Fuse TIP: On at least the 2007 3 series, the water pump fuse is in the ECU box. It is a 30amp blade fuse buried way down in the ECU wiring box. It is actually located in a smal black multi-fuse holder that you must dig to find and then totally disconnect (it is physically clipped to the ECU box and also unplugs from it's own wiring sub-harness). When you get that multi-fuse holder out, turn it over, put it in a secure vise or clamp or have a helper hold onto it. Then, use a small tool to release the TWO sliding cover locking tangs you'll see there. They are VERY small square holes on the rails of the plastic cover. As you hold these tangs depressed with a tiny special tool, you may then slide the cover off. It only comes off one direction, which is obvious when you look at the design. The 30A water pump fuse you are looking for is the one near the end farthest from the mounting clip. (if you have a BMW compatible OBD tool, you can "read" this fuse condition, by the way)
COMMENT: BMW engineers take note (ha! like THAT'S going to happen! :-) FUSES are supposed to be EASILY ACCESSIBLE for FIELD REPLACEMENT. That's why they are called a "fuse". BMW's idiotically over-engineered approach?
CHECK/REPLACE A WATER PUMP FUSE
1. remove cabin air filter assembly
2. detach cowl wiring cross-harness(es) from cowl
3. Remove sensor on cowl right side (US models).
4. Remove plastic covers, left and right
5. remove cowl assembly
6. Remove ECU box waterproof cover...yeah, the one that is locked with four tabs.
7. Dig down in the ECU wiring to locate the harness-mounted fuse sub-block assembly. It is a small black cube about 2" x 2" and contains at least five fuses.
8. Unclip and unplug this multi-fuse sub-block from wiring harness and take it to a bench vise or get a helper
9.THEN YOU STILL NEED a special tool to release that locking cover...
10. release and slide cover off, locate and replace failed fuse
All the above, to replace a FUSE? REALLY? This is total BS - piss poor engineering and plain old stealership profit-milking. You took a 5 minute job that really could happen in the field or on the side of the road and turned it into an hour long ordeal, complete with a flat-bed the car home experience.
I know I'm just one stupid customer, but I own two BMW, and this is my final go-round on BMW electric water pumps. If this fine German engineered Pierberg pump fails in 15-20k miles, I'm vacating the BMW brand. We'll see.
Thanks again to Bavarian Autosports! Your video is the best on the market for clear believable and achievable repair processes for this repair.
Thanks
A lot of other videos show replacement from the top(removing the fan to get more room). I dont have a lift, and wouldnt have as much room underneath with just jack stands. Do you know of any problems with that method?
Excellent.... Brilliant. A+++
The right tools especially bendable rachet are the key
Can't thank you enough for this and part 2 of this video. Very clear instructions, and although my '07 328xi differed slightly, I was able to follow along and get it done. Thanks so much for posting this!
Also worth noting for future readers that my electric water pump failed at 85,500 miles
Andrew Resaul
Hi Andrew, I tried to change my water pump and thermostat this morning but was unsuccessful. The above video is great but unable to use it for my 2007 328xi. Did you do this job from top or bottom? do you remember what parts you removed to get to the pump? Any feedback is highly appreciated. Thank you so much in advance.
Teddy Adnew Hey man, so I did it from the bottom - it's quite a squeeze to get it done, since the ---xi models have extra components to the chassis down there - mine was a huge black bar sitting directly under the water pump occluding the working space. It helps if you have small hands, or have someone to help you who has small hands (I still have scars from the cuts I got squeezing mine through there). When reassembling everything, make sure to plug all your hoses where they belong - to do this, I removed the front passenger side wheel and was able to get a flex driver through there.
As for what parts I removed to get to the pump - it's pretty much as described in the video. I didn't remove that giant black bar or anything, just kinda worked around it. A little patience goes a long way with this job in particular - I got it done over the course of two days, maybe 10 hours total (slow I know), but it was a success in the end. Best of luck to you, please reply again if there's anything else I can help with!
Andrew Resaul Thank you so much. I will give it another try over the weekend. Thank you again for the info.
Andrew Resaul Thanks for your added input on the xi models, Andrew.
@Otto my fan came on at a high speed for about 3minutes until I got home and turn the car off. I thought it might be the water pump but when I did the test to check the pump the pump was working fine. Could it be the thermostat or just a one-time thing? I have not turned on the heat or defrost to see if it will do again I have a water pump and thermo coming in just in case.
This is a good DIY video by bavauto, and bavauto is a great retailer for bmw parts. But WARNING this video is not for a all wheel drive BMW. The parts seem to be the same and in the same location, but the frame work is different on the Xdrive and the room to work on the install is way more difficult. DO NOT attempt this job on a 535XI. Go ahead and pay the pros, it will be pricey but way less frustrating
Thank you, for the time and excellent explanation
N52 E60 Do you have advise how to removed the A/C compressor
I can't is so un access place,
I can't see a way to removed the mounting bolt, (the thermostat is on the way) still disconnected from the water pump, but no room to place the wrench, please i will love if you have a video or a help ,
Thank you in advance
Without taking out the " WATER PUMP" ,how you got these video, please NO ONE DOES THE VIDEO LIKE YOU ,
Quick question is the water pump plug & play or does it need to be programmed long story short bought a new OEM water pump then it was defective got a new one now having the code 2e84 no comm. replaced thermostat & cooling temp. sensor. Any help is much appreciated!
I'm also seriously considering getting parts from the producer(s) of this video, as an appreciation for this great tutorial.
I just wonder, though, if there's a way to test the water pump to be certain that it's not working. (My guess is it is broken, but I'd like to be positive.)
And I hope that two regular ramps will give enough clearance from the ground, since I don't have access to a professional lift such as the one on the video.
Thanks for your consideration, Juan.
The job can be done on ramps.
You can do the bleeding procedure, at the end of the video. If the pump does not run, it's likely faulty.
This video is NOT for an XI. Still helpful but a lot more parts to work around. I was able to get everything down and replaced from the bottom of my car but without the right tools it would be a lot more frustrating! I also recommend a lift if you have access to one. Unfortunately, I did not. Good luck out there and be ready for a rather difficult project.
He explained it so them well I'm surprised he took all the extra time to make it look so easy.
Thank you for that now I'm so confident to do it on my own BMW
This looks much easy and accessible compared to xdrive models especially E61 (maybe same on E60 LCI) with its different model subframe that covers access to almost all of the stuff underneath the engine.
Do I need to buy genuine parts? or can it be other brands?
I really like your video thank you so much!!
Is there a complete DIY for water pump and thermostat replacement for E90 with N43 engine? I tried but found access to bolts and connections was too difficult.
Need help removing the quick disconnect hose from the thermostat I all ready pulled the clip from the top but still the hose won't budge any advice "?
Just to echo some of the other comments below, my 2007 N52 X3 has a lot more stuff in the way ie: the entire subframe. Undoing the sway bar would only allow you to swing it approx. 1" before hitting the subframe. Much more difficult than on the model in the video.
Hello, one question: Is it the same/similar procedure for the BMW Z4 E85 3.0si engine? Thanks!
is this the same for 2007 e92 328i. I'm getting stuck at 11 mins. removing the second hose
As Chris k noted - yes, you must mix 50% with water (unless you are in an extreme cold climate, which requires a higher concentration of coolant/anti-freeze). The distilled water is preferred as the minerals have been removed and this reduced the future possibility of electrolytic corrosion in the system.
Is this the job I need to do for codes 002e81 and 002e84? I've read it could be my coolant temperature sensor or pump.
Fantastic video
Thank you!
EXCELLENT
Is this pretty much the same procedure, for the 2015 X6 35i with X-Drive?
Just picked up an 08 335i and service records show pump was replaced 12,000 miles ago. Took it to the dealer for some recall work and they recommended a new pump. I can see that is it slowly dripping coolant. My question is it possible that it could just be a loose or worn hose that is connected to the water pump itself that is causing the leak? Does anyone know where the weep hole is located on the pump itself so I can see if it is in fact leaking from the pump? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
I just did this DIY - would have been impossible without this video. Huge thanks to Bav Auto.
PS - I love how Otto doesn't even take off his watch
Really, I should be removing the watch, as an example for safety. However, when working in an area with no moving parts and no open battery connections ... it's not really a requirement.
BavarianAuto Hi Otto, There seems to be a difference with my 2007 bmw 335xi....theres another bar which I think runs the intercooler which is in the way.
Reduced engine power (from the ECU) and check engine light with corresponding fault code, eventually,shows as high temp.
Thanks for this video ... HOWEVER ... I have a '06 530xi wagon and there is very little that is similar in the process. I had to remove a few hoses from above that just could not be gotten to from below (and it was very tight - a real puzzle to do). The 530xi has virtually no access from below other than getting your hands/tools in from between the pump and the radiator). You cannot remove the power steering hose hanger until you have removed the thermostat (and I had to remove the thermostat before I could remove the pump - opposite of your video). I found I had to cut one of the hose clamps on the pump that was clocked in a direction that could not be reached. ALSO a tip, in case you can't find a torx socket to fit the the three aluminum pump bolts - a 10mm 12 point socket works.
Yes, As noted, the xi models cannot be accessed from below as the 2wd models can.
i didnt get a check engine light but i got a code thru my tune and i have high fan and reduce power. you think i have to reset the codes because of the tune?
Great information, went to family wedding this week in northern British Columbia and got the low level warning in amber then red, pulled my 2006 BMW 323i over to check and added some bottled water to increase, but this happened again just a few miles down the road. Got a tow truck and had the car taken to a vehicle repair place in Terrace (middle of nowhere), they feel that the problem is a faulty electric water pump, but will not know for sure unitl removed, (I can now seee how to check via youtube as this a common problem) This has been ordered but he was unable to get the thermostat, you will not want to know what the part will cost me up here...I have found this post extremely helpful and will pass this along to the shop who is working on the car, as they say, they have not worked on many imports up here, should I worry about thermostat as they are unable to get this as well??? Thanks for the great info...
FRODE HANSEN you should absolutely get the thermostat and change it at the same time
Must coolant have to be mixed with distilled water?
Nice video, which shows you why labour charges for servicing a BMW are high. Anyone thinking of buying a BMW should watch it.
I've owned BMWs since the early days - and they were always great vehicles and not really that difficult to work on. Seriously wonderful cars! But these new ones - YIKES! - a computer with wheels. I cannot believe the crappy electric motors that all fail (side mirror, water pump, air suspension - all failed and when I dismantle to look at the motors they are cheap junk designed to fail) The cheaply built water pump (but terribly expensive to replace) results in a tow and probably a ruined engine when it goes - and they all go sooner than later. BMW should be ashamed.
How long should it take an experienced mechanic change electrical water pump and thermostat replacement? Can you make a video for a BMW 640?
Great video. I will be referencing it to do my water pump on my 335i tomorrow. One question, did you not disconnect the battery to do this? Is that step not required? Thanks.
IWafflezI no mate why isit you lot always think you have to disconnect battery for everything even changing a airbag be a man do it with battery always connected if anything blows up in your face and you die well it was your day be a man stop removing battery all you us guys remove battery’s for everything I have never heard anything more stupid here in the uk we just play about with anything even while the cars running have some balls or don’t work with cars simple I smoke cigarette while playing with the fuel lines I bet you lot would say that’s risky and I’m asking for danger but I love risks :)
Dang you got the doctor hisself dropping knowledge over here. Question is why NOT disconnect. Pop trunk. 10mm socket to negative/ ibs. 1 bolt. Remove negative/ ibs and set a towel or rag on said connections to prevent continuity. Don't close trunk unless you have a key slot ,or pit a rag over latch mechanism. Literally 30 seconds .
Did you drain the radiator first?
any videos for X drive e60?
Hi, nice video! I have one issue while doing this DIY. I couldn't disconnect the elbow hose which is the radiator to thermostat hose. I spent hours to try to pull that out, it just won't come off. Without pulling that off I can only feel the water pump upper bolt with my finger but can't reach the E12 socket to it.
Do you have any suggestion on how it can be taken off?
Best Regards,
Kalvin
We can only suggest that you keep trying on the connection. It is OK to use a screwdriver of smaller pry-bar to help to move the hose off the nipple. Make sure that the QD securing clip is fully dislodged.
Nice
Hi there! I would like to ask you - do anyone has an idea how to change water pump on car with electronic power steering? The electromotor on steering did not provide space to remove the pump. There is no easy acces.. Do I have to remove all electronic power steering out of the car?