5:49 I saw this kind of thing on a 14M2E also, so there's a very high probability to be a factory modification for that chassis, even for the diode. Remember, it's a pro equipment, so they used silicone glue since these monitors can be shipped from one studio to another or in a mobile station for an event. So these modifications are strong, high temp/voltage/humidity proof, flexible. 1KV capacitors leads in PCEngine GT/TurboExpress are sealed in a similar way (smoother : it was planned) since 80+ Volts are somewhere inside the console.
That trace/jumper wire on the back board is also on mine. After posting on several forums, I think that was done by Sony technicians & is completely ok for operation.
Hey Steve, thanks for sharing that. I know this is more than 2 years old, but today I was working on one of my PVMs, a 1997 like yours to refresh the convergence caps and I found the same components there, the epoxy is a little different though but the parts look just like yours. I think they were stock, maybe not from factory but the distributors or something. I took some pics, I can share if interested to see.
@@RetroTechUSA Also testing diodes is easy, just use diode mode on your meter in both directions. The voltage drop should be much larger in the reverse direction.
Thanks for another great vid! I’ve been trying to figure out why my 14m2 only displays red for over a year. Totally frustrating but maybe one day I’ll figure it out.
I have a Sony PVM 14M2U with the exact same overscan issue. Also, when I first fire up the TV, the picture vibrates and there is a ton of fuzziness, so you can't make out any of the words on the screen. Running the TV for a bit, the vibration goes away, and sometimes the fuzziness goes away. I haven't opened the monitor up yet.
WOW! That's really cool Steve. Nice that you press those comics and doing your best to preserve them for the years to come. Always like looking around your pad to see great pieces like this bro. 8^) Anthony...
I've got an old CRT where the menus don't even pop up anymore, plus the volume buttons dont work, and it won't work with a remote anymore either. Is it just a bunch of bad capacitors? I'd really like to get it fixed at some point, it's got a component input with a very nice picture, it's a Sansui 27".
Some of those look like they're factory bodges but those opposing diodes don't. In the PVMs I've got with factory bodges, they used foam tape, not vinyl tape.
@@RetroTechUSA I almost wonder if a PNP/NPN transistor failed and rather than replace it, they installed those diodes (I don't care to watch the video intently enough to figure out the orientation of the diodes and figure out if they're PNP or NPN oriented). But those were like 5 for $1 at Radio Shack, so I can't imagine a situation where it'd have made sense to replace a transistor with diodes unless this is like the 90s and SMT parts are hard to come by.
Hola ,comprueba todos los voltajes del módulo g Power , también los voltajes digitales que están sin utilizar. Yo dispongo de uno que es el mismo fallo y es producido por un fallo en la fuente de mentación G . El fallo fue producido por una alta temperatura al no tener ventilación de momento estoy revisando porque ha habido un sobre voltaje en la línea de alimentación e cambiado el Diodo zener de control ,Pero la línea de 5 V con cargada da 4,80 , me imagino que algún elemento a 5 V tiene que estar derivado a tierra o un condensador o cualquier cosa
I have this same exact PVM, and sometimes I notice slight flickering on the screen. Also it has a horrible whine. Do you know if replacing the caps will fix the random video noise and the high pitch whine? Also,where can I buy cap kits for this specific PVM?
They are similar, but not the same. Here is a link to your PVM's SM: ia800101.us.archive.org/8/items/SonyPVM1450QMPVM1454QM1354ServiceMaintenanceManual/Sony%20PVM-1450QM%20PVM-1454QM%201354%20Service%20Maintenance%20Manual.pdf
Hey Steve, how do you clean your board with alcohol and not get white residue left over? Just FYI, you should reflow solder joints after you clip legs off any component because clipping after the solder has cooled will cause microfractures in the joint.
Sometimes white residue comes up. I try to wipe off the are with a wipe soaked in distilled water. Then I go over it again with alcohol. It can be a problem sometimes.
I've got the same monitor, with seemingly a custom mod where there's a toggle switch at the back that enables the display to flip (mirrored). Bizarre; no idea why someone would've wanted to install that. But a problem I have with it is that the colours shift during random moments, with a tendency to display a purple image when it does shift. I've terminated all the out ports. Any ideas what that might be? Really don't want to get rid of the monitor as the picture otherwise is fantastic.
What caught my attention in this video Steve, is that device behind you and before the Retro Tech banner in the beginning of the video. That looks like a interesting piece of machinery bro. Is it part of your work instruments? Anthony..
So that is actually a Comic Book press. I bought it about a month ago and have been pressing a lot of my silver and bronze age comics. Great eye as always Anthony! - Steve
Hey Kelly, Yeah I think the problem was a diode on the main board. I wound up scrapping this monitor and used all the parts to fix 2 other PVMs, so at least that was a positive.
@@adamgabrielle5631 That's too bad. BTW, to clarify the testing process use diode mode in the reverse direction and if you get any reading other than open/OL the diode is bad. Assuming you did that correctly, I would recommend a very close visual inspection and testing of any diodes or capacitors in the deflection area.
@detroit retro gamer drg313 I don't see how your problem is even remotely related and would have the same fix. If a color is missing, either the electron gun is dead or maybe an IC on the neck PCB is dead. You can narrow down the issue by for example plugging green into the blue electron gun.
I bought a monitor exactly like this one for $150 at my local Ewaste place. The colors are bleeding. I’m checking the capacitors now. But mine has a “jumper wire” in the exact same place as yours on your backboard. Same color. Maybe it came that way? Or was a standard repair?
I know this is a really old comment but im still gonna reply, These monitors were Pro equipement so they were transported to studio to another (thats why the silicone). My PVM-14M2E also has that and its just a mod for a cap or potentiometer issue i think And it was applied by sony technicians, And the color bleed might just be worn caps on either the A board or the Neck board, Cheers
Are you sure those "mods" are not just fixes by Sony for issues that were discovered after making the boards? I have/had a bunch of 9 and 6 inch PVMs and all of them had such small fixes on them.
If you haven't seen LGR's most recent vid, you should take a look. TONS of vintage gear. ua-cam.com/video/rvM82T3C2Ik/v-deo.html at about 18 or 19 minutes in, you'll see a bunch of old television monitors, edit controllers, and VTRs. I'm still not finished watching, just figured this would be up your alley!
5:49 I saw this kind of thing on a 14M2E also, so there's a very high probability to be a factory modification for that chassis, even for the diode. Remember, it's a pro equipment, so they used silicone glue since these monitors can be shipped from one studio to another or in a mobile station for an event. So these modifications are strong, high temp/voltage/humidity proof, flexible.
1KV capacitors leads in PCEngine GT/TurboExpress are sealed in a similar way (smoother : it was planned) since 80+ Volts are somewhere inside the console.
That trace/jumper wire on the back board is also on mine. After posting on several forums, I think that was done by Sony technicians & is completely ok for operation.
Hey Steve, thanks for sharing that.
I know this is more than 2 years old, but today I was working on one of my PVMs, a 1997 like yours to refresh the convergence caps and I found the same components there, the epoxy is a little different though but the parts look just like yours. I think they were stock, maybe not from factory but the distributors or something. I took some pics, I can share if interested to see.
Where would you even begin if you wanted to repair that board without just the simple recap? It makes my head spin just thinking about it.
It's a lot of guessing and looking for failed parts, bad traces, cold solder joints. I still learn new stuff all the time about these machines.
CRT repair was a full time job back in the days
Service manuals have whole board layouts in them and some instructions on how to troubleshoot common issues.
I found a 14M4U with the same problem and it turned out to be a shorted diode.
I think it was D502 or D504
Cool, do you remember which diode? I'll need to see about how to test diodes. Thanks
@@RetroTechUSA I know it was one of a pair of large black diodes on large traces in the deflection area. It had visible burn marks in the area.
@@RetroTechUSA Also testing diodes is easy, just use diode mode on your meter in both directions. The voltage drop should be much larger in the reverse direction.
Thanks!
Thanks for another great vid! I’ve been trying to figure out why my 14m2 only displays red for over a year. Totally frustrating but maybe one day I’ll figure it out.
Keep trying or save it for parts, Good luck!
I have a Sony PVM 14M2U with the exact same overscan issue. Also, when I first fire up the TV, the picture vibrates and there is a ton of fuzziness, so you can't make out any of the words on the screen. Running the TV for a bit, the vibration goes away, and sometimes the fuzziness goes away. I haven't opened the monitor up yet.
WOW! That's really cool Steve. Nice that you press those comics and doing your best to preserve them for the years to come. Always like looking around your pad to see great pieces like this bro. 8^)
Anthony...
My 20M2u has that same white jumper wire on the AV board and no other work elsewhere, so that was probably done at the factory.
My A board has the same zener diodes glued together.
Mine is an 14M2E...
Hey man. Love your videos. I have the same model that's displaying a purple hue. Is it fixable or is the tube dead?
Hey try replacing the H out transistor or the geometry ic
I've got an old CRT where the menus don't even pop up anymore, plus the volume buttons dont work, and it won't work with a remote anymore either. Is it just a bunch of bad capacitors? I'd really like to get it fixed at some point, it's got a component input with a very nice picture, it's a Sansui 27".
Some of those look like they're factory bodges but those opposing diodes don't. In the PVMs I've got with factory bodges, they used foam tape, not vinyl tape.
I think you are right about all that. I've seen jumper wires installed like this one had on the PSU and other areas, but the Diode thing is a mess.
@@RetroTechUSA I almost wonder if a PNP/NPN transistor failed and rather than replace it, they installed those diodes (I don't care to watch the video intently enough to figure out the orientation of the diodes and figure out if they're PNP or NPN oriented). But those were like 5 for $1 at Radio Shack, so I can't imagine a situation where it'd have made sense to replace a transistor with diodes unless this is like the 90s and SMT parts are hard to come by.
Hola ,comprueba todos los voltajes del módulo g Power , también los voltajes digitales que están sin utilizar.
Yo dispongo de uno que es el mismo fallo y es producido por un fallo en la fuente de mentación G .
El fallo fue producido por una alta temperatura al no tener ventilación de momento estoy revisando porque ha habido un sobre voltaje en la línea de alimentación e cambiado el Diodo zener de control ,Pero la línea de 5 V con cargada da 4,80 , me imagino que algún elemento a 5 V tiene que estar derivado a tierra o un condensador o cualquier cosa
I have this same exact PVM, and sometimes I notice slight flickering on the screen. Also it has a horrible whine.
Do you know if replacing the caps will fix the random video noise and the high pitch whine?
Also,where can I buy cap kits for this specific PVM?
I have a 14m2mdu it's from February 2001 it a amazing set
They are great PVMs
03:35 Jeez, you came awfully close to touching ground when discharging the tube!
Hey. Do the PVM-14M2 and PVM-1454QM monitors have a compatible service manual? Similar motherboard?
They are similar, but not the same. Here is a link to your PVM's SM: ia800101.us.archive.org/8/items/SonyPVM1450QMPVM1454QM1354ServiceMaintenanceManual/Sony%20PVM-1450QM%20PVM-1454QM%201354%20Service%20Maintenance%20Manual.pdf
Hey Steve, how do you clean your board with alcohol and not get white residue left over?
Just FYI, you should reflow solder joints after you clip legs off any component because clipping after the solder has cooled will cause microfractures in the joint.
Sometimes white residue comes up. I try to wipe off the are with a wipe soaked in distilled water. Then I go over it again with alcohol. It can be a problem sometimes.
I've got the same monitor, with seemingly a custom mod where there's a toggle switch at the back that enables the display to flip (mirrored). Bizarre; no idea why someone would've wanted to install that. But a problem I have with it is that the colours shift during random moments, with a tendency to display a purple image when it does shift. I've terminated all the out ports. Any ideas what that might be? Really don't want to get rid of the monitor as the picture otherwise is fantastic.
Hello I have a pvm -8020 it dose not seem to show pictures only green light turns on.
What caught my attention in this video Steve, is that device behind you and before the Retro Tech banner in the beginning of the video.
That looks like a interesting piece of machinery bro. Is it part of your work instruments?
Anthony..
So that is actually a Comic Book press. I bought it about a month ago and have been pressing a lot of my silver and bronze age comics. Great eye as always Anthony! - Steve
Is it okay to keep the remote bridged for the front light?
Do you mean with a jumper in the back pin connector? If so, yes it's fine to leave it jumped and have to have the light on while using your PVM.
@@RetroTechUSA yes that's what I ment and thank you very much for the reply.
You mention a cap kit in the video but I can’t see a link to it in the video description; do you sell or have a link to these anywhere please?
Hey sorry. I process orders by email. Snutt541@gmail.com
Retro Tech thanks; sent an email.
Good day Steve,
That was an unfortunate find with this little guy.
Hey Kelly, Yeah I think the problem was a diode on the main board. I wound up scrapping this monitor and used all the parts to fix 2 other PVMs, so at least that was a positive.
Oh my, my g-board has died on my BVM 14M4. The big yellow block thing has burst liquid everywhere. Any advice? :(
Replace it...?
@@DasAntiNaziBroetchen Easier said than done. It's a proprietary component. I've been trying to find a suitable G-board replacement for 18 months now.
have the same problem on my sony pvm-14m1j.have you fixed it yet?what seems to be the problem?
Did you see my earlier post? Might just be a diode. If so it's easy and cheap to replace.
@@eltair8800 yup ive seen it.but mine's not shorted
@@adamgabrielle5631 That's too bad. BTW, to clarify the testing process use diode mode in the reverse direction and if you get any reading other than open/OL the diode is bad. Assuming you did that correctly, I would recommend a very close visual inspection and testing of any diodes or capacitors in the deflection area.
@detroit retro gamer drg313 I don't see how your problem is even remotely related and would have the same fix. If a color is missing, either the electron gun is dead or maybe an IC on the neck PCB is dead. You can narrow down the issue by for example plugging green into the blue electron gun.
I bought a monitor exactly like this one for $150 at my local Ewaste place. The colors are bleeding. I’m checking the capacitors now. But mine has a “jumper wire” in the exact same place as yours on your backboard. Same color. Maybe it came that way? Or was a standard repair?
I know this is a really old comment but im still gonna reply, These monitors were Pro equipement so they were transported to studio to another (thats why the silicone). My PVM-14M2E also has that and its just a mod for a cap or potentiometer issue i think And it was applied by sony technicians, And the color bleed might just be worn caps on either the A board or the Neck board, Cheers
Are you sure those "mods" are not just fixes by Sony for issues that were discovered after making the boards?
I have/had a bunch of 9 and 6 inch PVMs and all of them had such small fixes on them.
If you haven't seen LGR's most recent vid, you should take a look. TONS of vintage gear. ua-cam.com/video/rvM82T3C2Ik/v-deo.html at about 18 or 19 minutes in, you'll see a bunch of old television monitors, edit controllers, and VTRs. I'm still not finished watching, just figured this would be up your alley!
pvm 1443md falla sincronización