I used to deliver pianos, and we would secure them to the walls with e-track tie down rails and ratchets. They are relatively cheap at $100 for 4 of the 5 foot sections with all the hardware. Simple install that will allow you to move things that aren't vehicles a lot more securely by strapping them to the walls.
Yes! Etrack is great. When I had my enclosed trailer (kicking myself for selling it 🤦♂️) I ran e-track on the floor down both sides of the trailer about 4” off the walls, then ran etrack on the walls approximately 42” off the floor so I could lay 48” pieces of plywood on their side against the wall and strap them down. Bought everything from harbor freight.
$100 per 5ft section is extremely expensive. I got a 5ft section many years ago when I had a trailer and at that time it was like $79 for something like 4 of them. Even today, Northern Tool has 5ft sections for $23.99 for horizontal and $19.99 for vertical E-Track sections. As Bobbilly2300 said below, Harbor Freight has them in 5ft sections for $15.99 (horizontal or vertical, same price).
@@n2ocharged That price is for 4 rails and all the hardware. I edited my post to reflect that. Four rails just by themselves are $64 at Harbor Freight.
I would suggest running some LED lights along the ceiling where the wall meets the ceiling (bith sides). That way you have plenty of light to see when you have vehicles in the trailers. Those center lights are ok but once you get a vehicle in there, it will obscure the light. For bonus points even check out adding some solar panels to the roof. Better than what was installed previously. That way your battery is always being charged.
Looks good brother. There will always be someone out there that can say they can do it better or tell you how. Your trailer, your money. Keep up the great content.
The hardware on the Ramp/door you removed was an internal lock. It would have a bar that slipped into the hardware and extended past the door. This was one way to slow someone down if they cut the locks on the outside of the door.
That bracket you removed from the floor looked like a removable winch bracket. Definitely get you a winch to pull them "non-runners" up in there! Nice work man!
If feasible, leveling jacks for the corners. A small toolkit (with jacks and stands) for the trailer for those roadside emergencies. I'd check out your hubs and axles to make sure they are serviceable still. TPMS for your tires and maybe a wireless backup camera.
30 odd years ago I had a self leveling set on my caravan. Brilliant invention. About 5 years back we rescued a horse about to go to the doggers. He's a lovely boy but skittish. Terrified getting on a float because of the movement. Self leveling stands were almost as much as the trailer, so out of the question. Instead, I welded retractable hinge joints an swivel bases using 2 scissor jacks (very small ones) from a scrap yard. No matter the slope of the land, I can level the ramp without any movement. I'm sure a simple and cheap setup like that would work here too.
I would second the idea of running LED strips along the wall/ceiling joint. Will really light it up and night - AND - I would also suggest running strips along the wall / floor joint also. Makes it SUPER easy to see under the car when you're trying to tie it down securely at night - heck it even helps during the day!
In 2010 I bought a new 28’ v-nose car trailer, when prices were half decent. The trailer is still in excellent condition with a lot of improvements. The roof was crushed in 2015 by an extreme snow load. I decided not to just straighten the beams but placed a heavier set of beams the full length of the trailer- my insurance on the trailer covered the entire cost. I had already added 110 power, painted the walls, built and installed a full height cabinets- covered in white aluminum with bright trim- complete with a work bench. Added a roof mounted AC unit, finally painted the floor and ramp. Had a used upper and lower tool cabinet with side boxes so bolted it down. Added a pair of enclosed 5 drawer pull out drawers, a fold down bunk, and pull down charger table. Now adding a pair of removable tire racks, to replace my Home made ones. Last year upgraded my full electrical 12 volt system so I could add batteries and inverters. Need to do the ceiling with panels yet. Maybe next year. Anyways you did an excellent job on your trailer
For the lights get govee LED strips. It’s a diffused light strip and I believe they draw low wattage. Run it vertically down the trailer. Lots of people use them in school bus rv builds.
good to see you put some rivets in that long piece, even if it was sealed tight a little extra stability for the sheet metal can never hurt and it looks really nice all finished up
as someone whos built these trailers from the absolute ground up, the screws and rubber coating on top is more than enough. the thing with rivets is you have to then reseal everything and thats another pain...haulmark builder... you dont wanna know the stories i know lmao, great video
Hey Matt I found your channel whilst my mother was in a coma after she had a brain bleeding. Me, my dad and my sister were watching you the 2 months we were at the hospital. Just wanted to thank you for letting us having something to enjoy in that period. Thankfully my mother survived and has fully recovered. Now we are all watching your videos.❤
The colors are great, but after you paint the inner wheel arches\fenders, put some reflective tape or something to the corners to be more visible. You also could put long led strip lights on the ceeling. Great progress!
I was just gonna say, we need to get Matt to 100 K subscribers! I think he is pretty close at 85 K or so! Awesome content, great cars, consistent delivery of emails and entertaining as heck! Press that subscribe button for him!
Really enjoying this series! Didn't know that most of your channel is made up of rebuilding broken stuff and making it nice! Also, I don't know why everyone is so obsessed with how it looks. It is a trailer, and a cheap one at that. Its only goal is to keep whatever is in it, dry and safe and if it does that, i don't care how it looks.
Forget about all the negative comments. That is just jealousy from people who have nothing better to do. I can't imagine the amount of work it takes to keep this channel going. I, for one, love all your videos and the cars you work on. There's only 1 thing I want to say. Please dont move to a bigger place with unobtanium tools and cars. The interesting thing is that you do it on somewhat of a budget and it feels like any joe could do it himself. This is what I like. But hey, dont mind me, I am just saying what I like. But it's not my channel. Keep up the good work. 👍
Looks good, I would ( and have on customers trailer) put the led lights as stated above, additionally before the ceiling and in place of riveting wedging up the roofing material enough to put a adhesive chaulking between the beams and cieling to minimize movement while towing. The other major thing is to add rigid foam board to add stability and insulation when used for refuse from weather prior to cieling panel install. Don’t get me started on additional ceiling vent, work bench, battery relocated inside the trailer, flood lights , awning,etc. etc., etc.😊
Led strip lights that you can install in truck beds will give you more light in the inside of your trailer. You can also change the led bulbs out inside the trailer to a 4000K color temp. That will keep things from looking blue.
Love how the trailer is coming along. For inside the trailer in terms of lights, I would suggest LED tube lights that can be linked/daisy chained to better illuminate the trailer and wattage amount is around 18W if memory serves me right.
Since so many others are critical... I figure I might as well put my 2 cents in... 1st. Buy good paint. Sherwin Williams or Benny Moore. Then you won't have to put 3 or 4 coats of a paint that won't even hold up as well as 1 or 2 coats of a good paint. 2nd. Buy good tape and good brushes. Labor is the most expensive part of any project (even when it's free). 3rd. Use a blade and score your tape where it meets the paint to remove it without tearing or remove it before the paint cures when possible. 4th. Before applying any paint to bare wood (especially old, dirty, bare wood), PRIME first. That is all 😉
I will say, the interior work you did turned out so much better than the roof. Good amount of lightning (on camera) and a good choice for the color scheme. Install some cabinets up front for storage and it'll be a decent unit. Hope all works well for it. Id suggest maybe a winch inside, would come in handy for dragging a dead car in if you ever pick a dead proejct up.
I recently purchased a 7 x 14 construction trailer. I too and going through and rehabbing it to make it work for me. I've primed and painted the walls, and since mine has a walkable roof with a thick 3/4" plywood ceiling, I painted it too. Haven't gotten to the floors yet... (fall project). I did install e-track from harbor freight as tie down for my dirt bikes. Really enjoying the series and I too need interior lighting,
I like how you have fixed the trailer. I personally would of put some silicone in the hole BEFORE the rivet went in and then put the sealer over the top (like you did).... Would of done the same thing with the screws.... Just seals the hole up even tighter... I think it's to say what I would do when I am not there... WELL DONE!!!!
19:00 that long 5 inch board that was laying in the trailer goes in-between your trailer door and the trailer so you can roll things in and out without that giant gap going into the trailer. Looks amazing! Great work!
Really nice work! The trailer looks great, and having rebuilt it you know what’s under the covers. I would recommend you replace the flap on the drop down rear door with diamond plate aluminum. My enclosed trailer’s plywood flap flexed and the screws pulled out routinely. I would also recommend adding extra (and extra large) rubber bump stops to the top of the rear door. You’re not always unloading on a perfectly level surface, and it’s better to wear out a sacrificial bump stop than ding your door skin.
For the light I would run LED stripes angled in the corner between wall and ceiling. You will have an even light and no shadows on the side of a car when the trailer is loaded. Since you can put in the power everywhere, you can run an additional wire under the trailer to get enough power to the stripes and avoid voltage drop along the length of the stripes.
for the lighting, add some LED strips across those roof trim panels. Still think you need to a single complete sheet of polythene or thin rigid plastic to the roof that has no joints. If you can get a roll a white plastic, roll it over the roof and just cut a square for the "sunroof" that guarantee that no water can find it's way in
Keep an eye on the screws holding the ceiling sheets up. I helped a friend do the exact same thing to his enclosed trailer. The roof of these trailers must vibrate and shake in the wind because Every time he took it on a longer trip for the first 5 trips, some of the screws loosened or fell out.
Good job, colours work, looks 20x better than when you started. LED battens might light it up better than those domes, but I guess it doesn't have to be ultra bright, they're just for loading and unloading.
As LED strip lights around the interior perimeter ceiling. In assuring to the main ceiling lights that will help distribute more light. Especially when the trailer is filled with stuff.
I did sheetmetal for 15 years on Airplanes. For your first repair like this, not a bad job. You learned a lot here and will use this knowledge on your next job. You bought a good quality rivet gun. Just remember to take the rivet set apart and clean it, it will last much longer
i like this. the only thing i really did differently in my trailer is i put foam insulation boards in the ceiling before i put paneling up. help keep the trailer cool.
Painting tip: The good old Wagner (or el cheapo equivalent) electric spray gun. They handle very thick (or diluted) paints with ease... and you'll never need to spend 1/2 your day cutting in.
Nicely done Matt! I have a 24’ enclosed trailer that you’re inspiring me to spruce up! The trailer was bought new by the previous owner, he had ordered it with wall insulation, appears to be like fiberglass batt type insulation. I don’t know if the ceiling is insulated or not. I feel I should remove the ceiling and wall materials and remove all of the insulation. It’s been a nice home for mice. I like that roof coating you applied, really sealed it up! Did you only need to apply 1 coat of it on your roof? With the ceiling and wall material and all insulation out, I would be able to ensure the roof is leak free. Might be a good idea to install some foam board insulation before reinstalling the ceiling. I like the idea of your floor paint too. Most of the floor in my trailer is aluminum diamond deck, by that floor paint you used would be really nice on the rest of the floor and ramp! Great videos!!
Looking awesome. I wouldn't listen to the keyboard warriors as long as your happy with it and it does what you need it to do that is all that matters. Keep up the good work it's a real good mix up of content which is a nice.👍👍
The floor anchor that you had to use a piper to pick up you take a chain you put a chain bloop in that and it helps hold when you put attention to it can you call your vehicle or whatever in place go inside the side to side back and forth in the trailer and a lot of time those are put in there from factory where people put them aftermarket once on from non-factory
U need led puck lights for r.v. they clip into the ceiling small but bright two rows. Also look into making a 18v Milwaukee battery system to run the lights independent from ur truck easy to change and have a couple.
Nice job on the floor material it will be rough to help hold vehicles from sliding around and won't rot the wood from oil spills and leaking cars nice job..
I would want a trailer with the inside side panels flipped so the smaller piece on the bottom for counters/tables. I will be putting a heavy coat on the floor or out some sort of liner on in because of heavy use. Looks good
after you drill a hole...especially in a roof etc i.e...apply a water-tight sealant to the hole ..."before" you drill in the screw or rivet...to help ensure a water tight fit...
The lights in the trailer look fine, IMO. They don't need to be super bright. They need to be bright enough to see for when you're loading/unloading at night and to make everything super visible inside during the day.
A awning would be really nice had one on my old race trailer was great for sunny hot days while working on my toys also solar panels for keeping your battery charged and me personally new wheels and tires and e-tracks are really helpful
Those clips were all tie down fastener system…you can get straps that have ends that fit into those clips for tieing down cargo ….bikes…etc to keep from shifting during hauling
The lights that cam with it are probably fine but i would have gotten some of the tracks that go in a corner you put aome led strips in and get some high cri leds in
Matt, next time you need to paint something, spend the extra and purchase Frog Tape. It doesn't let the paint bleed under it, and is super easy to remove when done. That bracket you removed from the floor was part of a motorcycle wheel clamp kit.
I love how you stated how pathetic the tape was and you continued to use it for the floor!
Came to the comments for this
I used to deliver pianos, and we would secure them to the walls with e-track tie down rails and ratchets. They are relatively cheap at $100 for 4 of the 5 foot sections with all the hardware. Simple install that will allow you to move things that aren't vehicles a lot more securely by strapping them to the walls.
This is the way!!!
Harbor freight has etrack cheap
Yes! Etrack is great. When I had my enclosed trailer (kicking myself for selling it 🤦♂️) I ran e-track on the floor down both sides of the trailer about 4” off the walls, then ran etrack on the walls approximately 42” off the floor so I could lay 48” pieces of plywood on their side against the wall and strap them down. Bought everything from harbor freight.
$100 per 5ft section is extremely expensive. I got a 5ft section many years ago when I had a trailer and at that time it was like $79 for something like 4 of them.
Even today, Northern Tool has 5ft sections for $23.99 for horizontal and $19.99 for vertical E-Track sections.
As Bobbilly2300 said below, Harbor Freight has them in 5ft sections for $15.99 (horizontal or vertical, same price).
@@n2ocharged That price is for 4 rails and all the hardware. I edited my post to reflect that. Four rails just by themselves are $64 at Harbor Freight.
I would suggest running some LED lights along the ceiling where the wall meets the ceiling (bith sides). That way you have plenty of light to see when you have vehicles in the trailers. Those center lights are ok but once you get a vehicle in there, it will obscure the light.
For bonus points even check out adding some solar panels to the roof. Better than what was installed previously. That way your battery is always being charged.
All the new trucks have a plug for an extra camera behind the trailer.... i would also consider adding that to the rear!
Those OEM wheels look SO much better. My eyes feel better!
Looks good brother. There will always be someone out there that can say they can do it better or tell you how. Your trailer, your money. Keep up the great content.
Might wanna drop an in line fuse on that 12v wiring. 🔥🔥🔥
Planning on it!
Or maybe a small BlueSea Systems 12v distribution panel
❤@@matt13ross
The hardware on the Ramp/door you removed was an internal lock. It would have a bar that slipped into the hardware and extended past the door. This was one way to slow someone down if they cut the locks on the outside of the door.
Hey you should have used painter tape, it would have come up off the wood much easier, you did an excellent job bro.
That bracket you removed from the floor looked like a removable winch bracket. Definitely get you a winch to pull them "non-runners" up in there! Nice work man!
New Milwaukee tool day is the best day.
If feasible, leveling jacks for the corners. A small toolkit (with jacks and stands) for the trailer for those roadside emergencies. I'd check out your hubs and axles to make sure they are serviceable still. TPMS for your tires and maybe a wireless backup camera.
Is this by experience? They always break down in the worse locations and times. Murphy's Law.
30 odd years ago I had a self leveling set on my caravan. Brilliant invention. About 5 years back we rescued a horse about to go to the doggers. He's a lovely boy but skittish. Terrified getting on a float because of the movement. Self leveling stands were almost as much as the trailer, so out of the question. Instead, I welded retractable hinge joints an swivel bases using 2 scissor jacks (very small ones) from a scrap yard. No matter the slope of the land, I can level the ramp without any movement. I'm sure a simple and cheap setup like that would work here too.
@@greenhouse3505that sounds cool. Wish I could see that setup
I would second the idea of running LED strips along the wall/ceiling joint. Will really light it up and night - AND - I would also suggest running strips along the wall / floor joint also. Makes it SUPER easy to see under the car when you're trying to tie it down securely at night - heck it even helps during the day!
Something about construction/renovation is extremely satisfying. Nice job.
In 2010 I bought a new 28’ v-nose car trailer, when prices were half decent. The trailer is still in excellent condition with a lot of improvements. The roof was crushed in 2015 by an extreme snow load. I decided not to just straighten the beams but placed a heavier set of beams the full length of the trailer- my insurance on the trailer covered the entire cost. I had already added 110 power, painted the walls, built and installed a full height cabinets- covered in white aluminum with bright trim- complete with a work bench. Added a roof mounted AC unit, finally painted the floor and ramp. Had a used upper and lower tool cabinet with side boxes so bolted it down. Added a pair of enclosed 5 drawer pull out drawers, a fold down bunk, and pull down charger table. Now adding a pair of removable tire racks, to replace my Home made ones. Last year upgraded my full electrical 12 volt system so I could add batteries and inverters. Need to do the ceiling with panels yet. Maybe next year. Anyways you did an excellent job on your trailer
That black piece with the keyholes was likely the receiver for a removable wheel chock to carry a motorcycle.
The keyholes are for a temporary winch.
It’s fora Condor pit stop motorcycle chocks
Great choices on the colors. They work well together. Nice job!
Great work! Suggestion, solar panel the roof, led lights + trickle charger and wench all solar powered
For the lights get govee LED strips. It’s a diffused light strip and I believe they draw low wattage. Run it vertically down the trailer. Lots of people use them in school bus rv builds.
good to see you put some rivets in that long piece, even if it was sealed tight a little extra stability for the sheet metal can never hurt and it looks really nice all finished up
as someone whos built these trailers from the absolute ground up, the screws and rubber coating on top is more than enough. the thing with rivets is you have to then reseal everything and thats another pain...haulmark builder... you dont wanna know the stories i know lmao, great video
That Milwaukee rivet tool is great. I have had one for 4 years and love it
Hey Matt
I found your channel whilst my mother was in a coma after she had a brain bleeding.
Me, my dad and my sister were watching you the 2 months we were at the hospital. Just wanted to thank you for letting us having something to enjoy in that period.
Thankfully my mother survived and has fully recovered. Now we are all watching your videos.❤
I'm glad she made it though! Thanks for the support!
The colors are great, but after you paint the inner wheel arches\fenders, put some reflective tape or something to the corners to be more visible. You also could put long led strip lights on the ceeling. Great progress!
Yeah, you’re killin’ in as always! Never quite and make it better. Colors are great. You’re gonna end up with a really nice rig there. WAY TO GO!
Night and day difference man. Looks so much better!
That color combo made it look like a brand new trailer. great job on the work.
I have to say it, Fantastic job. Trailer lookin clean💯
Looking Good Matt! Painters Tape (the blue stuff) is a much better product for the job than masking tape.
I was just gonna say, we need to get Matt to 100 K subscribers! I think he is pretty close at 85 K or so! Awesome content, great cars, consistent delivery of emails and entertaining as heck! Press that subscribe button for him!
Really enjoying this series! Didn't know that most of your channel is made up of rebuilding broken stuff and making it nice! Also, I don't know why everyone is so obsessed with how it looks. It is a trailer, and a cheap one at that. Its only goal is to keep whatever is in it, dry and safe and if it does that, i don't care how it looks.
You do great work Matt!! F#*& the jealous haters! Always enjoy your content and your drive to succeed!
This guys smart he knows what he is doing
Forget about all the negative comments. That is just jealousy from people who have nothing better to do. I can't imagine the amount of work it takes to keep this channel going. I, for one, love all your videos and the cars you work on. There's only 1 thing I want to say. Please dont move to a bigger place with unobtanium tools and cars. The interesting thing is that you do it on somewhat of a budget and it feels like any joe could do it himself. This is what I like. But hey, dont mind me, I am just saying what I like. But it's not my channel. Keep up the good work. 👍
Looks good, I would ( and have on customers trailer) put the led lights as stated above, additionally before the ceiling and in place of riveting wedging up the roofing material enough to put a adhesive chaulking between the beams and cieling to minimize movement while towing. The other major thing is to add rigid foam board to add stability and insulation when used for refuse from weather prior to cieling panel install. Don’t get me started on additional ceiling vent, work bench, battery relocated inside the trailer, flood lights , awning,etc. etc., etc.😊
Diffused Led light strips along the edges where the walls meet the ceiling would look ace. Maybe even blue to accent
Strip LED with diffusers are great, but blue (color temp 4000K+) is bad for your eyes and looks cheap imho. Go for 2700-3500K.
Face it Matt, you're never going to make the internet happy lol
Exactly 👍💪💯
Is this the third video on the same trailer? Business expense for the win lol
haha 100%
Not enough cussing with the old hand rivet. What are you a saint lol
His videos are fine what are u retards on about
Great video! That back Amazon exterior light is bright and will help when loading and unloading cars into the trailer for sure!
Led strip lights that you can install in truck beds will give you more light in the inside of your trailer. You can also change the led bulbs out inside the trailer to a 4000K color temp. That will keep things from looking blue.
The plate you took up at 22:11 was for a portable winch. They have brackets and it locks in if your car isn't running.
I've just found your channel and im hooked, its such a theraputic thing watching you doing stuff and explaining it at the same time, keep it up!
Welcome aboard!
Love how the trailer is coming along. For inside the trailer in terms of lights, I would suggest LED tube lights that can be linked/daisy chained to better illuminate the trailer and wattage amount is around 18W if memory serves me right.
Since so many others are critical... I figure I might as well put my 2 cents in...
1st. Buy good paint. Sherwin Williams or Benny Moore. Then you won't have to put 3 or 4 coats of a paint that won't even hold up as well as 1 or 2 coats of a good paint.
2nd. Buy good tape and good brushes. Labor is the most expensive part of any project (even when it's free).
3rd. Use a blade and score your tape where it meets the paint to remove it without tearing or remove it before the paint cures when possible.
4th. Before applying any paint to bare wood (especially old, dirty, bare wood), PRIME first.
That is all 😉
The small black bracket is the mounting point to a condor motorcycle cradle. The cradle is removable for when you have larger loads.
I will say, the interior work you did turned out so much better than the roof. Good amount of lightning (on camera) and a good choice for the color scheme. Install some cabinets up front for storage and it'll be a decent unit.
Hope all works well for it. Id suggest maybe a winch inside, would come in handy for dragging a dead car in if you ever pick a dead proejct up.
It was an additional ratchet strap bracket - saves two cars/items hitting each other if you brake too suddenly…
I recently purchased a 7 x 14 construction trailer. I too and going through and rehabbing it to make it work for me. I've primed and painted the walls, and since mine has a walkable roof with a thick 3/4" plywood ceiling, I painted it too. Haven't gotten to the floors yet... (fall project). I did install e-track from harbor freight as tie down for my dirt bikes. Really enjoying the series and I too need interior lighting,
Love it. And your buddy has serious Boot Energy going on.
Hahaha. E4… I just really love my job.
Lmao, this. 😂
@@Donald-5150 E-4 Mafia!
The bracket you removed is the CONDOR Motorcycle (Part # PSTK-6400) Pit-Stop/with Trailer Adaptor Kit for the Condor PS-1500 Motorcycle wheel chock.
I like how you have fixed the trailer.
I personally would of put some silicone in the hole BEFORE the rivet went in and then put the sealer over the top (like you did).... Would of done the same thing with the screws....
Just seals the hole up even tighter...
I think it's to say what I would do when I am not there... WELL DONE!!!!
19:00 that long 5 inch board that was laying in the trailer goes in-between your trailer door and the trailer so you can roll things in and out without that giant gap going into the trailer.
Looks amazing! Great work!
Really nice work! The trailer looks great, and having rebuilt it you know what’s under the covers.
I would recommend you replace the flap on the drop down rear door with diamond plate aluminum. My enclosed trailer’s plywood flap flexed and the screws pulled out routinely. I would also recommend adding extra (and extra large) rubber bump stops to the top of the rear door. You’re not always unloading on a perfectly level surface, and it’s better to wear out a sacrificial bump stop than ding your door skin.
Good pointers. Thanks!
For the light I would run LED stripes angled in the corner between wall and ceiling. You will have an even light and no shadows on the side of a car when the trailer is loaded.
Since you can put in the power everywhere, you can run an additional wire under the trailer to get enough power to the stripes and avoid voltage drop along the length of the stripes.
for the lighting, add some LED strips across those roof trim panels. Still think you need to a single complete sheet of polythene or thin rigid plastic to the roof that has no joints. If you can get a roll a white plastic, roll it over the roof and just cut a square for the "sunroof" that guarantee that no water can find it's way in
Hi Matt. I loved this episode. Keep it up. Oh and the trailer looks great. All they way from South Africa
Looking way nicer! One thing you should do is add fuses off the battery for the wiring. Don't want a wire to rub through and short causing a fire!
Keep an eye on the screws holding the ceiling sheets up. I helped a friend do the exact same thing to his enclosed trailer. The roof of these trailers must vibrate and shake in the wind because Every time he took it on a longer trip for the first 5 trips, some of the screws loosened or fell out.
The trailer looks so much better! Now I kinda want an auto rivet gun!
Your vids, although long, have a really nice flow to them! keep it up.
A line of LED tape around the top of the wall would put out a good bit of light and not consume much power at all.
I was thinking the same. A line of LED strips on each side with defuser covers will lighten it up a bunch
Yes the hook for holding down something like the yellow tie downs , keep the items from moving.
Led strip lights on ceiling/wall edge all way round
Good job, colours work, looks 20x better than when you started.
LED battens might light it up better than those domes, but I guess it doesn't have to be ultra bright, they're just for loading and unloading.
Take the inside lights and stripes out and replace is with LED stripes… you got a bright inside then! 😃😃
As LED strip lights around the interior perimeter ceiling. In assuring to the main ceiling lights that will help distribute more light. Especially when the trailer is filled with stuff.
I really think these type of videos do well because it's pretty relatable to a larger audience
I did sheetmetal for 15 years on Airplanes. For your first repair like this, not a bad job. You learned a lot here and will use this knowledge on your next job. You bought a good quality rivet gun. Just remember to take the rivet set apart and clean it, it will last much longer
Exactly!! Thank you!
i like this. the only thing i really did differently in my trailer is i put foam insulation boards in the ceiling before i put paneling up. help keep the trailer cool.
Once again. Great job buddy. Looks GREAT.
Painting tip: The good old Wagner (or el cheapo equivalent) electric spray gun. They handle very thick (or diluted) paints with ease... and you'll never need to spend 1/2 your day cutting in.
BLUE PAINTERS TAPE !!!!!!! NOT MASKING!! BLUE PAINTERS TAPE !!!!!!! NOT MASKING!! BLUE PAINTERS TAPE !!!!!!! NOT MASKING!!
And remove the tape bevor the Paint ist dry. It's mutch more easy.
For the rear light, look for the light and wireless camera.
It’s looking good man!
A mains voltage outlet would be a good idea to run a battery charger or a de-humidifier etc.
Nice truck 🛻 I’m always happy to see chevys at wor
Thanks!
Nicely done Matt! I have a 24’ enclosed trailer that you’re inspiring me to spruce up! The trailer was bought new by the previous owner, he had ordered it with wall insulation, appears to be like fiberglass batt type insulation. I don’t know if the ceiling is insulated or not. I feel I should remove the ceiling and wall materials and remove all of the insulation. It’s been a nice home for mice. I like that roof coating you applied, really sealed it up! Did you only need to apply 1 coat of it on your roof? With the ceiling and wall material and all insulation out, I would be able to ensure the roof is leak free. Might be a good idea to install some foam board insulation before reinstalling the ceiling. I like the idea of your floor paint too. Most of the floor in my trailer is aluminum diamond deck, by that floor paint you used would be really nice on the rest of the floor and ramp! Great videos!!
Turned out awesome. Great job on a budget.
Looking awesome. I wouldn't listen to the keyboard warriors as long as your happy with it and it does what you need it to do that is all that matters. Keep up the good work it's a real good mix up of content which is a nice.👍👍
The floor anchor that you had to use a piper to pick up you take a chain you put a chain bloop in that and it helps hold when you put attention to it can you call your vehicle or whatever in place go inside the side to side back and forth in the trailer and a lot of time those are put in there from factory where people put them aftermarket once on from non-factory
Looking good Matt, you could always put down your garage flooring in there aswell.
U need led puck lights for r.v. they clip into the ceiling small but bright two rows. Also look into making a 18v Milwaukee battery system to run the lights independent from ur truck easy to change and have a couple.
Nice job on the floor material it will be rough to help hold vehicles from sliding around and won't rot the wood from oil spills and leaking cars nice job..
I would want a trailer with the inside side panels flipped so the smaller piece on the bottom for counters/tables. I will be putting a heavy coat on the floor or out some sort of liner on in because of heavy use. Looks good
Go with led strip lights, cool white color . They are brighter.
😂 I love how you deal with the haters. Keep up the good work Matt
Great job Matt. I can't help but be jealous!
Great job Matt, that’s a fantastic transformation.
peel masking tape before the paint is dry, makes the seperation much cleaner
22:16 WHAT IS IT??... maybe a portable Winch mounting bracket?? .. for pulling things like a car into the trailer
Oooh that would be a really good addition
That's what I was going to say. Or it could be an interior tie down location?
after you drill a hole...especially in a roof etc i.e...apply a water-tight sealant to the hole ..."before" you drill in the screw or rivet...to help ensure a water tight fit...
Great job matt!! Wow! Très belle job Matt! J'adore!
Well done matt, your trailer is looking good, greetings from the netherlands 👍
Absolutely riveting episode!
Harbor freight has some sweet four-foot. LED for 20 something dollars And they all plug into each other in series
The lights in the trailer look fine, IMO. They don't need to be super bright. They need to be bright enough to see for when you're loading/unloading at night and to make everything super visible inside during the day.
A awning would be really nice had one on my old race trailer was great for sunny hot days while working on my toys also solar panels for keeping your battery charged and me personally new wheels and tires and e-tracks are really helpful
Those clips were all tie down fastener system…you can get straps that have ends that fit into those clips for tieing down cargo ….bikes…etc to keep from shifting during hauling
i love when Matt address the haters haha!
The lights that cam with it are probably fine but i would have gotten some of the tracks that go in a corner you put aome led strips in and get some high cri leds in
Matt, next time you need to paint something, spend the extra and purchase Frog Tape. It doesn't let the paint bleed under it, and is super easy to remove when done. That bracket you removed from the floor was part of a motorcycle wheel clamp kit.
Yea I think I'll get better tape lol
Try some led light strips following the edge of your ceiling. It would be cheap and give off more light.