Easy instructions on how to do a brake fluid change on a motorcycle. Procedure works for most motorcycles but not all. This was done on a 2008 DL 650 V-Strom.
Hello! After 2 years of wanting a v strom I finally got a 2015 dl650 with ABS. I want to do everything for this bike myself starting with brake fluid change. Thank you very much for this video! -New a subscriber 👍🏽
I use a large syringe to suck the fluid out. It works good to remove the reservoir fluid. And if the hose fits on the end, you can put it on the nipple, loosen it and use the suction from the syringe to pull the old fluid through.
if you never use a brake fluid bottle that's been opened before you are throwing away lots of good fluid, the brake fluid is fine as long as the cap was kept on the bottle, it's only a hydraulic fluid.
Brake fluid has hygroscopic properties - meaning that it absorbs moisture. The heat generated during braking is transferred to the brake fluid. A 3-percent moisture content in DOT 3 brake fluid reduces the boiling point of the fluid by more than 100 degrees. When brake fluid boils, vapor locks are produced (from the moisture that it may have gathered from sitting on the shelf for months. A tight cap on the bottle isn't any better sealed than the brake system on a motorcycle.) that can be compressed. So when using the brakes hard, the fluid can boil and make bubbles that compress causing brake failure all because someone didn't want to spend money on new fluid or throw out old jeopardized fluid. Buy the smallest container of fluid you can and change out the fluid from more than one motorcycle at a time (like a friends bike). I don't like wasting things either but this is about safety and the correct way of performing the maintenance.
Idaho or other dry climates can keep it in closed container for a year or so. In PA, or FL, humid swamps, no go, and change fluid annually if you care. 2 years is ok though. Idaho can change 3-5 years if not used hard. It is arid there.
Brake fluid shouldn't be topped up....unless it leaked, it's a sealed system and always has the correct amount of fluid in it. When the pads are new, the level should be correct, as the pads wear the pistons move out by the amount worn off the pads and the fluid fills in the space behind the pistons....when you replace the pads and push the pistons back to their 'starting' position, the fluid will return to the full level. If you've topped it up with half-worn pads, it will be well above the full level when new pads are installed. Systems with good-sized pistons will overflow out the reservoir if they've been topped up. Also, if left alone, the fluid level in the sight glass is a good indicator of brake wear at a glance.. Not to nit-pick, just passing along some good advice that was passed on to me when I started wrenching. But as others said, great tutorial..thanks for taking the time to post informative and interesting content!
also do plugs and change to k n n air filter (this is a lot of bang for your buck if you are trying to kill time), also grease wheel bearings and lube shock chrome with silicone spray. if you haven't yet, heated grips, consolidate electronics wired to battery, go through the maintenance manual but get a case first
Nice video’s safed me Some money;). I have the same motor as you. I liked it much but Sometimes i think About upgrading to a v strom with ABS. What are you thoughts About that?
Nothing wrong with upgrading ABS. For me, riding for 9 years and not yet having to brake hard enough to need it, I cant say that its a must have. I just bought another V-Strom for my wife that has ABS and it does give me a bit more peace of mind when she rides. I believe riding strategy and regular practice is the most important.
I had a friend who was addicted to brake fluid. He says he can stop anytime.
You make it look so easy Im now inspired to do my brakes! Thank you!
Oh man, that garbage bag trick is a good one!
Used this tutorial and it’s perfect, easy and simple. Thanks for posting it up!!!
Thank you for the compliment!
Still usefull! Bringing my 2008 Dl650 back to life and came across this vid. Thanks!
Great tutorial. Brief and easy to understand.
finally a tutorial easy to follow & understand. Cheers mate & good road!
Excellent vids on both this and the brake pad change. Nice work! Thanks and keep them coming
nice, thanks for. the video. i will change. my brake liquid now.
You did a good job of explaining how to do this maintenance job. Thank you.
Great video, best explanation I've seen yet, thanks for taking the time!
Direct and to the point. Thank you.
Concise, direct, good execution. Subscribing.
Very information and easy to understand it!!Thanks a lot!!
Excellent video thanks 👍
Hello! After 2 years of wanting a v strom I finally got a 2015 dl650 with ABS. I want to do everything for this bike myself starting with brake fluid change. Thank you very much for this video! -New a subscriber 👍🏽
Very nice! Congrats on the new bike!
@@mainstreammoto4856 Thank you!
Great video,easy to understand
Straight to the point, thank you!
Excellent video, thanks!
Nice,easy to understand video
Like the trash bag idea! Thanks
Thats great thanks .. I shall do mine this weekend .
Excellent stuff - thank you.
As a newbie, I gotta ask: What is the purpose of the last bleed after the reservoir is full and closed?
Great video!
I use a large syringe to suck the fluid out. It works good to remove the reservoir fluid. And if the hose fits on the end, you can put it on the nipple, loosen it and use the suction from the syringe to pull the old fluid through.
Thank you very much. It is important for me. Because safe my money.
Great video , thanks . Do you have a coolant video on the vstrom ?
Cheers .
Nice. Thanks man.
Is this the abs version and if so would this process work after replacing a line?
good job
if you never use a brake fluid bottle that's been opened before you are throwing away lots of good fluid, the brake fluid is fine as long as the cap was kept on the bottle, it's only a hydraulic fluid.
Brake fluid has hygroscopic properties - meaning that it absorbs moisture. The heat generated during braking is transferred to the brake fluid. A 3-percent moisture content in DOT 3 brake fluid reduces the boiling point of the fluid by more than 100 degrees. When brake fluid boils, vapor locks are produced (from the moisture that it may have gathered from sitting on the shelf for months. A tight cap on the bottle isn't any better sealed than the brake system on a motorcycle.) that can be compressed. So when using the brakes hard, the fluid can boil and make bubbles that compress causing brake failure all because someone didn't want to spend money on new fluid or throw out old jeopardized fluid. Buy the smallest container of fluid you can and change out the fluid from more than one motorcycle at a time (like a friends bike). I don't like wasting things either but this is about safety and the correct way of performing the maintenance.
Mainstream Moto Ok thanks point taken, on reflection I think you are correct.
Idaho or other dry climates can keep it in closed container for a year or so. In PA, or FL, humid swamps, no go, and change fluid annually if you care. 2 years is ok though. Idaho can change 3-5 years if not used hard. It is arid there.
Nice! What type of brake fluid should to use? Thanks a lot!
Nice video. What size tubing is that? 1/4 inch?
Thanks
Thanks a lot.
Do you have to do something different if you have the abs model?
what size tubing did you use? i have a DL100 but it should be the same
Hi how to remove the plastic covering the brake fluid reservoir? Thank you
I wonder why people reccomend the "4 and hold... bleed... retighten... repeat" manouver?
I just open the bleed valve and pump away.
Brake fluid shouldn't be topped up....unless it leaked, it's a sealed system and always has the correct amount of fluid in it. When the pads are new, the level should be correct, as the pads wear the pistons move out by the amount worn off the pads and the fluid fills in the space behind the pistons....when you replace the pads and push the pistons back to their 'starting' position, the fluid will return to the full level. If you've topped it up with half-worn pads, it will be well above the full level when new pads are installed. Systems with good-sized pistons will overflow out the reservoir if they've been topped up. Also, if left alone, the fluid level in the sight glass is a good indicator of brake wear at a glance..
Not to nit-pick, just passing along some good advice that was passed on to me when I started wrenching. But as others said, great tutorial..thanks for taking the time to post informative and interesting content!
sweet tip on gauging break wear via site glass
Just did my brakes with this video as guidance. What else to do during the Corona lockdown?
also do plugs and change to k n n air filter (this is a lot of bang for your buck if you are trying to kill time), also grease wheel bearings and lube shock chrome with silicone spray. if you haven't yet, heated grips, consolidate electronics wired to battery, go through the maintenance manual but get a case first
Could you please tell me approximately how much fluid I will need for both front and back brakes?
about half a bottle for both the front and the rear brakes... its surprisingly not much
Nice video’s safed me Some money;). I have the same motor as you. I liked it much but Sometimes i think About upgrading to a v strom with ABS. What are you thoughts About that?
Nothing wrong with upgrading ABS. For me, riding for 9 years and not yet having to brake hard enough to need it, I cant say that its a must have. I just bought another V-Strom for my wife that has ABS and it does give me a bit more peace of mind when she rides. I believe riding strategy and regular practice is the most important.
Why have such irritating music? Is this a bar or a garage?
Any louder and we could not hear what you are saying.
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
ua-cam.com/video/mi2NpR_TvxE/v-deo.html