Great thank you, one point to mention, clean the piston before pushing back in to body as you might push some crap past the caliper seal, brake cleaner and tooth brush, wipe off then apply light coat of brake fluid then gently push back in to housing...
Nice Video. Ordered a complete set of EBC pads on Amazon, changed them all out in less than 30 mins. Easy, but those front bolts needed a breaker bar - They were tight! Impact wouldn't budge them, but I torqued them back on with the impact. I bought my bike new in 2007 & this was it's 1st brake job. The rear pads were completely worn out with a millimeter or 2 of pad left. The front was about 50%, but I replaced them anyway as the bike was getting harder to stop. The new pads have a lot more stopping power, even though the new pads aren't seated yet & the foot brake used to travel several inches before actually working. Now it barely moves. No noises, which was my biggest fear. My Wee-Strom was starting to have loud grinding gear shifts, especially from 1st to 2nd. A fresh oil change makes shifting smooth again, but only for about a month, then back to clanging, so I watched another video on clutch adjustment & cleaning out the gunk slung from the chain, all over the clutch screw assembly & that fixed it! The clutch wasn't engaging (or is it dis-engaging?) fast enough & the clanging was because I was actually shifting without a clutch, even though the lever was pulled in. Used de-greaser & it's now cleaned up like new & shifting hasn't been this good in a long time. Adjusted the clutch at the assembly, then adjusted the slack in the cable at the assembly. Also ordered LED replacement bulbs for the headlights; should be in tomorrow. The old 12 year old V-Strom is better than it has ever been. Thanks for posting the video! Just under 10,000 miles if you were wondering. Didn't know I was being so aggressive on the rear brakes. Thanks again!
Brilliant presentation getting myself a vstrom for 2018 really giving me the confidence to do most of the maintenance myself very clear and informative thanks be safe
This is great, thanks! Also, I'm amazed by how much easier maintenance on the V-Strom is versus my old Royal Enfield. To change the brakes on that piece of shit, you had to pull off the whole rear wheel, replace the pads, readjust the chain and then get the wheel back on.
Dude! you rock! I have the same year bike and I've been needing a mentor to help guide me through some maintenance, thanks so much for the easy to follow videos!
Very clear and concise. Subbed. Relatively new to riding. Some questions: What is the technical term for the piece holding the pads? Can that piece be painted? What do you use to clean the pieces? Just a wire brush or some type of cleaner as well? Finally, is there a special type of grease necessary? Thanks for any and all help or tips!
Good day Calvin Jasso! The technical term for the piece holding the pads is called the caliper. The caliper can be painted as long as the pistons are masked off. Regular brake cleaner works the best since it doesn't leave any residue. Use a plastic bristled brush or something less aggressive than wire. Any automotive grease will work. Let me know if you have more question! I don't know everything, but I'll try to be of some help!
This bike has seen some gnarly roads! Done this job quite a few times myself. One thing I'd add to this is, do NOT go cheap on the pads. Get reputable, solid brand pads, none of the no-name, made in China crap you can buy cheap on eBay. Perhaps, also use a rag in between the clamps/C-clamp when pushing the piston in so you do not scratch the calipers.
Great video thank you. I have one question. On my front brakes one was ok but the other was at 0 what is the problem amd how can i fix it so next time thay will end together? Thank you again
I just changed my rear pads. Now the front bolt will not go all the way in. There is a gap about 2mm before it touches the caliper, and i dont dare tighten it any harder in fear of stripping the threads. Any ideas?
I just replaced the rear pads on my 2009 DL650. The thin plates/insulating pads were not there. Is this a problem? What are these parts called? The video was very helpful. Thanks!
Those thin metal plates are called Retainers. If they are not there I would get some replacements ordered. Its possible but not likely that the brake pad could rust to the caliper piston or create some uneven wear (just my 2 cents) I was told by my local Suzuki dealer that the rear doesn't have insulators but looking at the parts diagram they are available!
@@mainstreammoto4856 Thanks for the information! I see them on Partzilla. For what it's worth, I have been riding this motorcycle for several years without them.
I am and have been enjoying all your videos. I do not see my question below. Can you recommend a brand of brakes? Do I need to turn the rotors or replace them? I have 8K miles on my 2015. Thanks in advanced.. keep doing videos. Looking forward to them.. from California.
I've gone about 55k and have not replaced the rotor/discs. Unless they are bent they should be fine. If you are feeling some pulsing in the brakes it could be an indication that they are warped or bent. I've always gone with genuine Suzuki brake pads but that's not to say that other brands are no good. Some pads may give you more or less grip, nothing wrong with testing out different ones!
I have a question. Have you ever had a problem with speed indication or speedometer? Have you had other problems with this motorcycle (electric wires)? Regards
I have not had any major issues with the bike at all! I have put 30k miles on it and have only done routine maintenance (change chain and sprockets, oil, coolant, tires ect...
@@mainstreammoto4856 Yes the front bolt of the rear brake, it fits into the hole and boot ok, every thing seems to be back in place but it just won't screw in and I don't want to risk stripping the threads on it, can't figure whats wrong with it. thanks
@@roadwarrior8560 Yes, that bolt has given me problems as well. Try getting it started without the other bolt in. Push in on the bolt and turn it backwards and feel for a slight click of the thread seating down then, push hard and thread it in. You're smart for not forcing it. I couldn't get mine to thread a while back no matter what I did. I ended up getting a new bolt and it went right in! Hopefully you wont have to get a new one but that fixed the problem for me. I made sure to install the new one using the sequence I described. Hope this helps.
@@mainstreammoto4856 Thanks, I finally managed to get it to thread in, I will order anew bolt for next time, might as well get new pad pins as well and I also need a dust cap for the rear bleed valve. great tips there, thank you.
Rusty brake parts don't work very good and they don't last as long either. As long as grease doesn't get on the pads or discs it'll be fine. (very light bits of grease) ...but, you can do whatever you want.
Great thank you, one point to mention, clean the piston before pushing back in to body as you might push some crap past the caliper seal, brake cleaner and tooth brush, wipe off then apply light coat of brake fluid then gently push back in to housing...
Thanks for the great videos. So clear, concise and helpful. I can’t believe I am only finding them now.
love the bloopers at the end, because in real life there are lots. Thanks for the video!
Nice Video. Ordered a complete set of EBC pads on Amazon, changed them all out in less than 30 mins. Easy, but those front bolts needed a breaker bar - They were tight! Impact wouldn't budge them, but I torqued them back on with the impact. I bought my bike new in 2007 & this was it's 1st brake job. The rear pads were completely worn out with a millimeter or 2 of pad left. The front was about 50%, but I replaced them anyway as the bike was getting harder to stop. The new pads have a lot more stopping power, even though the new pads aren't seated yet & the foot brake used to travel several inches before actually working. Now it barely moves. No noises, which was my biggest fear. My Wee-Strom was starting to have loud grinding gear shifts, especially from 1st to 2nd. A fresh oil change makes shifting smooth again, but only for about a month, then back to clanging, so I watched another video on clutch adjustment & cleaning out the gunk slung from the chain, all over the clutch screw assembly & that fixed it! The clutch wasn't engaging (or is it dis-engaging?) fast enough & the clanging was because I was actually shifting without a clutch, even though the lever was pulled in. Used de-greaser & it's now cleaned up like new & shifting hasn't been this good in a long time. Adjusted the clutch at the assembly, then adjusted the slack in the cable at the assembly. Also ordered LED replacement bulbs for the headlights; should be in tomorrow. The old 12 year old V-Strom is better than it has ever been. Thanks for posting the video! Just under 10,000 miles if you were wondering. Didn't know I was being so aggressive on the rear brakes. Thanks again!
Brilliant presentation getting myself a vstrom for 2018 really giving me the confidence to do most of the maintenance myself very clear and informative thanks be safe
This is great, thanks!
Also, I'm amazed by how much easier maintenance on the V-Strom is versus my old Royal Enfield. To change the brakes on that piece of shit, you had to pull off the whole rear wheel, replace the pads, readjust the chain and then get the wheel back on.
Great video, thanks! Funny, I just bought the exact same bike and even same color! 61000 miles, need some new pads.
Dude! you rock! I have the same year bike and I've been needing a mentor to help guide me through some maintenance, thanks so much for the easy to follow videos!
Awesome! That's great to hear! How long have you had your V-Strom for?
Mainstream Moto got it in November of 2017.
@@zacharryjacob873 Very nice! It's an awesome motorcycle. Definitely worth taking good care of!
Gave me the confidence to do it myself - looks very easy and thanks for the tip to splash a little grease around.
Большое спасибо. Все понятно без перевода.
Thanks for sharing Great Video as you said ""One of the easiest bits of maintenance yet very important..Keep them coming,',Cheers,',
Outstanding how to on DL650 brakes. Please make more on anything you do on this bike. ;))
Thank you! Will do!
Fantastic videos! Thanks! First time changing brakes and I had the computer by my side.
28 ft lbs front caliper bolts , rear back caliper bolts 16.5 , front star 19.5 ft lbs
Thanks from France. I am going to change my pads on my 2010 650 V-strom this evening :)
Very clear and concise. Subbed. Relatively new to riding. Some questions:
What is the technical term for the piece holding the pads?
Can that piece be painted?
What do you use to clean the pieces? Just a wire brush or some type of cleaner as well?
Finally, is there a special type of grease necessary?
Thanks for any and all help or tips!
Good day Calvin Jasso! The technical term for the piece holding the pads is called the caliper. The caliper can be painted as long as the pistons are masked off. Regular brake cleaner works the best since it doesn't leave any residue. Use a plastic bristled brush or something less aggressive than wire. Any automotive grease will work.
Let me know if you have more question! I don't know everything, but I'll try to be of some help!
Mainstream Moto thank you!
This bike has seen some gnarly roads! Done this job quite a few times myself. One thing I'd add to this is, do NOT go cheap on the pads. Get reputable, solid brand pads, none of the no-name, made in China crap you can buy cheap on eBay. Perhaps, also use a rag in between the clamps/C-clamp when pushing the piston in so you do not scratch the calipers.
Really great video and super helpful for a novice like me 👍
Based on your "oofta" ,Minnesota comes to mind....
Great video thank you. I have one question. On my front brakes one was ok but the other was at 0 what is the problem amd how can i fix it so next time thay will end together? Thank you again
Great job. Super clear and very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for this video, i like to do maintenance on my bike, and your video is very useful.
greetings from Genoa, Italy.
Thank you mate these vids will help me for when I pick my 2017 wee strom up tomorrow 👌👍👍 loved the cockups after! 😂😂😂😂👍
Thanks for the video!!! Going to be attempting to do this for the first time myself!!!
Awesome!!
thanks mate, very helpful!
Perfect!! Thank you. Now to watch the bleeding vid
Thanks for posting. Doing this on my '04 DL1000 this weekend, as long as the pads get here in time.
Great video. Concise and clear! Thanks.
Thanks a lot !
I'll save a little money from the mechanic,
it seems easy as a procedure.
Spot on! Thanks for the very clear info.
Thanks a lot from Greece very helpfull i will do it for the first time ...!!!!!
I just changed my rear pads. Now the front bolt will not go all the way in. There is a gap about 2mm before it touches the caliper, and i dont dare tighten it any harder in fear of stripping the threads. Any ideas?
I see you dont use torque wrench?
You do all tightening by "hand"?
Your videos are fantastic!!
Thnaks a lot for clear tutorial. Safe miles on road!
Nice done. Please tell me what bran d Suzuki does front in factory? And what brand you put in now?
Excellent thanks
Great video, thanks for this super description. What grease do you use? And what do you use to clean the calipers?
Tank you! I used just plain automotive grease and brake parts cleaner, nothin fancy.
Awesome - very helpful! Keep'em coming!
Thank you very mucho. I do it today and was great and simple!
Great video,easy to follow thanks very much
Thanks for the vid
Thanks for the tutorial man! Thumbs up and subscribed.
Great vid, bubba. take care!
Hi i just noticed you didn't take the top off the brake oil reservoir, is that not necessary? cheers thanks for the vlog
This video saved my ass! Thanks
I just replaced the rear pads on my 2009 DL650. The thin plates/insulating pads were not there. Is this a problem? What are these parts called? The video was very helpful. Thanks!
Those thin metal plates are called Retainers. If they are not there I would get some replacements ordered. Its possible but not likely that the brake pad could rust to the caliper piston or create some uneven wear (just my 2 cents) I was told by my local Suzuki dealer that the rear doesn't have insulators but looking at the parts diagram they are available!
@@mainstreammoto4856 Thanks for the information! I see them on Partzilla. For what it's worth, I have been riding this motorcycle for several years without them.
Many thanks for awesome video, well done!
Please advise high temperature silicone that you use!
You can also just cover a thin film of grease on the rear side of the pads if you dont have the retainers.
Great video!!!
I am and have been enjoying all your videos. I do not see my question below. Can you recommend a brand of brakes? Do I need to turn the rotors or replace them? I have 8K miles on my 2015. Thanks in advanced.. keep doing videos. Looking forward to them.. from California.
I've gone about 55k and have not replaced the rotor/discs. Unless they are bent they should be fine. If you are feeling some pulsing in the brakes it could be an indication that they are warped or bent. I've always gone with genuine Suzuki brake pads but that's not to say that other brands are no good. Some pads may give you more or less grip, nothing wrong with testing out different ones!
Muy bueno!!!!!!!!! Gracias!!!!
Yes,It's easy as it discribed..cool..thnx..
Is it same of DL 1000..?!
Suzuki changed the calipers after 2012 on the 1000 so anything after that will be a bit different.
excellent your video
Thank you!
great video thx
muito bem ensinado obrigado
Thank you very much!
I have a question. Have you ever had a problem with speed indication or speedometer? Have you had other problems with this motorcycle (electric wires)? Regards
I have not had any major issues with the bike at all! I have put 30k miles on it and have only done routine maintenance (change chain and sprockets, oil, coolant, tires ect...
Ok. Thanks
Ok. Thanks
I can't get the front bolt to thread back in, pad pin and rear bolt are threading in no problem, what am I doing wrong?
Is this the front bolt of the rear brake? or a different bolt...?
@@mainstreammoto4856 Yes the front bolt of the rear brake, it fits into the hole and boot ok, every thing seems to be back in place but it just won't screw in and I don't want to risk stripping the threads on it, can't figure whats wrong with it. thanks
@@roadwarrior8560 Yes, that bolt has given me problems as well. Try getting it started without the other bolt in. Push in on the bolt and turn it backwards and feel for a slight click of the thread seating down then, push hard and thread it in. You're smart for not forcing it. I couldn't get mine to thread a while back no matter what I did. I ended up getting a new bolt and it went right in! Hopefully you wont have to get a new one but that fixed the problem for me. I made sure to install the new one using the sequence I described. Hope this helps.
@@mainstreammoto4856 Thanks, I finally managed to get it to thread in, I will order anew bolt for next time, might as well get new pad pins as well and I also need a dust cap for the rear bleed valve. great tips there, thank you.
@@roadwarrior8560 Awesome! I'm glad it worked!
Do you know the torque specs on the rear caliper bolts and also the front ones please thanks
28lb-ft for the front bolts and 16.5lb-ft for the rear ones.
Oh man thanks a bunch
@@noedelacruz5910 You bet! Anytime!
Top 1 👍🏻
Puedes limpiar todo las mordazas
I wouldn't put grease anywhere near brakes
Rusty brake parts don't work very good and they don't last as long either. As long as grease doesn't get on the pads or discs it'll be fine. (very light bits of grease) ...but, you can do whatever you want.
What's going to rust? @@mainstreammoto4856
@@roadwarrior8560 Everything....
ua-cam.com/video/ZBu9K4YNT3o/v-deo.html
Have a brake have a kitkat.
Antes se limpia y luego se engrasa
you forget to clean it....
Clean what...?
@@mainstreammoto4856 piston
Ah yes! I suppose everything "pissed on" should be cleaned regularly :) Thanks dude! I'll make sure to do that next time.
Podías limpiar mordazas