For me personally, I ran the NGKs and they didn't feel right at all. I'm no mechanic by any stretch, but a lot of the time the forums can be an echo chamber of wrong information. Professionals/technicians are usually not scouring forums and giving out solid info for free, so sometimes you need to take things with a grain of salt. Common sense and personal experience prevails. And I appreciate the positive comment!
Having failed to get any of the coil packs and plug boots out, I can't tell how they're constructed... Several people have said that these are two-piece assemblies. Is it possible to separate the coils from the plug boots while the boots are still on the plugs? Would that allow me to get some lubricant on the boots to get them free? Is there a trick I can use to separate the coil packs from the boot?
The fact that your electrical connectors came out in a matter of seconds is mind boggling. One of mine came out fine but the 2nd one is not budging. I'm going on half an hour trying to get the clip off.
The magic of editing :) mine were VERY hard to disconnect the first time. Spray something in there, clean it up, push the connector IN, pull tab, then pull OUT with all your might, you'll hear that satisfying pop. You got this!
great video. I need to do this very soon on my 2017 GTI Sport. One question: Did you have to gap these spark plugs? I’m guessing not since they are OEM
NGK ruthenium plugs. Oem is good for gti's that are stock. Performance wise... NGK is the way to go unless you want to spend $80 for a set of Denso plugs
I never got my plugs out at 60,000 miles. I tried for hours and used several different types of tools to pull on those plug boots but couldn't get them free. I used an enormous amount of force. I finally reconnected to the coil packs and the ground wires. Fortunately it still runs, but I have to get the job done eventually, and now I'm not certain I can trust my mechanic. Just a few months before my attempt I had asked him to pull the plugs to see if I had any signs of a head gasket leak. 20 minutes later he told me that the plugs were fine. Did he lie to me about checking them? If he was able to get them out, wouldn't a good mechanic apply dielectric grease to prevent them from getting stuck?
Don't get frustrated. If the car still runs, step away for a while to cool down and re-think it. Mechanics have all sorts of experience and they know things that us DIYers may not. A trick to make sure your mechanic isn't scamming you is to say "I'd like you to save my old parts and give them back to me." At least there is less likely a chance of foul play. But a trusted mechanic is important -- keep looking. It took me 15 shops to find a good one.
Thank you for sharing! i have 2015 golf GTI manual type, i want try to replace it myself, should i also need purchase a set of Ratchet? i am also considering replacing the coil pack as well, mine already reached 51000 miil now. again, Thank you for sharing those valuable experience.
You should go buy a mechanics tool set. They range from $60 to $300. I would pick one up at price range at $100 to $150. It's a good investment that will last your lifetime and the price always go up. You also might have to go buy a spark plug socket if the tool set doesn't already come with one.
@@GibbysGarage15 i tried changing the spark plugs today. I wasnt able to remove the coil. the rubber piece just keeps extending. I pulled hard on it. Any tips? thanks!
@@yang8155 It can definitely be hard to get off because it's almost like it's vacuum sealed the first time you do it. Try to twist/turn, pull hard, use something to lever it off like a large flathead screwdriver (but be aware of what you're levering on). Be patient and good luck!
Did you disconnect the battery before doing it? Im thinking about doing it myself but not sure if i have to disconnect the battery before replacing it. Thanks in advance.
I've heard that those electrical connectors can easily break while removing them. I've never tried to do it because of that. I have an Audi S1 with this type of setup for the sparkplugs and coils.
It's kind of a hard thing to do your first time but gets a lot easier if you understand how the clips work and how dirt and grime can make things a bit trickier. Maybe a warm engine can help the plastics be less brittle before the job? I say go for it but take your time!
One big issue that worries me is that the coils are a ridiculous design. They are TWO pieces and can separate when you try to remove them. How are you supposed to get the lower part out if this happens??
60000 mile change psr fhe maintenance schedule. Per instructions elsewhere, I fully warmed up the sngine to, supposedly, make the coil packs easier to remove.. I have strong hands. An hour later I still can't get any of the coil packs out. #1 was already separated, probably courtesy of my mechanic who wss supposed to do a compression check about 6 months ago..Never said a word to me about a broken coil pack
That is very frustrating, sorry to hear. Have you tried leveraging off of something on the top? Obviously avoid any of the sensitive bits. But they might break as well..
@@GibbysGarage15I tried getting leverage. No good leverage points. I used a lot of force, trying to pull on the boots and coils at the same time.. Stretched the boots almost 3/4", but they didn't let go of the plugs. However the coils and boots have not pulled apart. At this point, I'm ready to put everything back together and let a mechanic deal with it. But wondering if all that pulling broke a wire connection to the plugs. Or is the connection just a pin that is sandwiched between the coil pack and head of the plug?
The part number might vary over time with revisions. You can check your local dealer with a VIN and get the part number from them, then look online for the best deal :)
There are arguments for both sides, personally I do not use anti seize. This car had 100k on it and the plugs came out very easily, so I don't see why it would be necessary in this application.
Be gentle and torque by hand.. it doesn't need a ton of torque, just enough for the gasket to crush and seat properly. If you go slow you will feel the gasket crush because it will get loose for a bit, then tight again. Good luck!
@@GibbysGarage15VERY bad idea. Remember, this engine is aluminum, not cast iron. You can damage the threads if you overtighten the plugs. I'd just buy a torque wrench and set it for 18.4 ft/lbs of pressure.
@@largol33t12 I'm just going off my own experience. I trust my "feel" more than a torque wrench sometimes, especially for low torque numbers like this. I've had some corrosion cause my torque wrench to prematurely click, whereas, using my "feel" method, you can feel the moment the gasket crushes and know for certain you've made a good seal. This is my own experience and I'm not a technician so take it with a grain of salt. For first timers, maybe it's a good idea to use a torque wrench. Do what you want to your own car.
Just logged into the account to say how much is appreciated, no music, no bla bla bla, straight to the point, thank you
you're very welcome
You just saved me about $2000 replacing the plugs and coils at my local dealership. Thank you so much!
That's an exorbitant price for this job! You're very welcome!
Please find another dealership if that's what they quoted you for what should be a $300 service. No telling what else they overcharge on.
😂😂😂 oh nah 300$ MAX for this job that is attempted robbery God bless
amazing. so simple and easy to see how to replace them. you the best.
Thank you! Yea it's not a tough job as far as maintenance goes
Love this video..straight to the point no 5 minutes of bs
Short and sweet.
Thanks for the tip on the spark plugs. On the Reddit sub everyone is talking about NGK plugs.
For me personally, I ran the NGKs and they didn't feel right at all. I'm no mechanic by any stretch, but a lot of the time the forums can be an echo chamber of wrong information. Professionals/technicians are usually not scouring forums and giving out solid info for free, so sometimes you need to take things with a grain of salt. Common sense and personal experience prevails. And I appreciate the positive comment!
Who makes OEM plugs? Bosch or Denso? I thought NGK makes most of the OEM spark plugs.
This "Original" plugs are from NGK, look at 2:18
@@Joseph-eh4rsNGK does make the OEM plugs
If running modded on these then please use aftermarket NGK’s, the OEM is nowhere near enough
just did it and worked out pretty good thank you
Awesome!
Having failed to get any of the coil packs and plug boots out, I can't tell how they're constructed... Several people have said that these are two-piece assemblies. Is it possible to separate the coils from the plug boots while the boots are still on the plugs? Would that allow me to get some lubricant on the boots to get them free? Is there a trick I can use to separate the coil packs from the boot?
Try this ua-cam.com/video/_ZZg_0VLZz4/v-deo.html
The fact that your electrical connectors came out in a matter of seconds is mind boggling. One of mine came out fine but the 2nd one is not budging. I'm going on half an hour trying to get the clip off.
The magic of editing :) mine were VERY hard to disconnect the first time. Spray something in there, clean it up, push the connector IN, pull tab, then pull OUT with all your might, you'll hear that satisfying pop. You got this!
Straight to the point and nice job 👍
Thank you!
great video. I need to do this very soon on my 2017 GTI Sport. One question: Did you have to gap these spark plugs? I’m guessing not since they are OEM
I did not check the gap, but it would probably be a good idea to do so!
NGK ruthenium plugs. Oem is good for gti's that are stock. Performance wise... NGK is the way to go unless you want to spend $80 for a set of Denso plugs
According to VW, NGK IS what they install at the factory.
@@largol33t12it’s kinda crazy ain’t it?
Great video. Thank you mang
Helped me today, thank you very much!
I'm glad it did! You're welcome!
Yeah great video if you guys watch a few of these no one uses never sees on the threads anymore!?!!! How to save the world a headaches
I had no problem taking these out at 100,000 kms with no anti seize
I never got my plugs out at 60,000 miles. I tried for hours and used several different types of tools to pull on those plug boots but couldn't get them free. I used an enormous amount of force. I finally reconnected to the coil packs and the ground wires. Fortunately it still runs, but I have to get the job done eventually, and now I'm not certain I can trust my mechanic. Just a few months before my attempt I had asked him to pull the plugs to see if I had any signs of a head gasket leak. 20 minutes later he told me that the plugs were fine. Did he lie to me about checking them? If he was able to get them out, wouldn't a good mechanic apply dielectric grease to prevent them from getting stuck?
Don't get frustrated. If the car still runs, step away for a while to cool down and re-think it.
Mechanics have all sorts of experience and they know things that us DIYers may not. A trick to make sure your mechanic isn't scamming you is to say "I'd like you to save my old parts and give them back to me." At least there is less likely a chance of foul play. But a trusted mechanic is important -- keep looking. It took me 15 shops to find a good one.
Thank you for sharing! i have 2015 golf GTI manual type, i want try to replace it myself, should i also need purchase a set of Ratchet?
i am also considering replacing the coil pack as well, mine already reached 51000 miil now.
again, Thank you for sharing those valuable experience.
No problem! Buying tools is always a great investment.
You should go buy a mechanics tool set. They range from $60 to $300. I would pick one up at price range at $100 to $150. It's a good investment that will last your lifetime and the price always go up. You also might have to go buy a spark plug socket if the tool set doesn't already come with one.
For my mk8 gti cs stage 2 what ngk do you want to put ??
Thank you
Would performance spark plugs not be better?
do you think never seize on the threads would be ok? Ive done it on other cars with aluminum heads
I would use it if you prefer to. Best to follow manufacturer's recommendation.
Nice straight forward video. No bs intro and all that lol. After how many miles did you change it?
I did it at 60,000 miles / ~100,000 kms.
@@GibbysGarage15 thanks! Also did you ever do a carbon clean up?
@@yang8155 Not yet, I heard it affects the mk7 less than the previous generation but I'm probably due, at 134,000 kms currently.
@@GibbysGarage15 i tried changing the spark plugs today. I wasnt able to remove the coil. the rubber piece just keeps extending. I pulled hard on it. Any tips? thanks!
@@yang8155 It can definitely be hard to get off because it's almost like it's vacuum sealed the first time you do it. Try to twist/turn, pull hard, use something to lever it off like a large flathead screwdriver (but be aware of what you're levering on). Be patient and good luck!
Did you disconnect the battery before doing it? Im thinking about doing it myself but not sure if i have to disconnect the battery before replacing it. Thanks in advance.
I didn't, but it's probably a good idea to disconnect your battery.
i like ur video sir ❤
Thank you!
I've heard that those electrical connectors can easily break while removing them. I've never tried to do it because of that. I have an Audi S1 with this type of setup for the sparkplugs and coils.
It's kind of a hard thing to do your first time but gets a lot easier if you understand how the clips work and how dirt and grime can make things a bit trickier. Maybe a warm engine can help the plastics be less brittle before the job? I say go for it but take your time!
@@GibbysGarage15telling us how they work would be nice lol
@@NickyLong89 It's just a clip you lever back and pull the connector out. It'll make sense when you look at it closely!
@@GibbysGarage15 it’s such a shit design. No need for it to be so shit. The bit you’re supposed to push on is flimsy as fuck.
One big issue that worries me is that the coils are a ridiculous design. They are TWO pieces and can separate when you try to remove them. How are you supposed to get the lower part out if this happens??
That's beyond the scope of my knowledge. Did this happen to you?
Do I need to apply high temperature anti seize lubricant on the spark plug thread?
Not required, it's preference. I usually do without.
60000 mile change psr fhe maintenance schedule. Per instructions elsewhere, I fully warmed up the sngine to, supposedly, make the coil packs easier to remove.. I have strong hands. An hour later I still can't get any of the coil packs out. #1 was already separated, probably courtesy of my mechanic who wss supposed to do a compression check about 6 months ago..Never said a word to me about a broken coil pack
That is very frustrating, sorry to hear. Have you tried leveraging off of something on the top? Obviously avoid any of the sensitive bits. But they might break as well..
@@GibbysGarage15I tried getting leverage. No good leverage points. I used a lot of force, trying to pull on the boots and coils at the same time.. Stretched the boots almost 3/4", but they didn't let go of the plugs. However the coils and boots have not pulled apart. At this point, I'm ready to put everything back together and let a mechanic deal with it. But wondering if all that pulling broke a wire connection to the plugs. Or is the connection just a pin that is sandwiched between the coil pack and head of the plug?
@@PanamaSticks Not sure about the pins. Have you tried a twisting motion as you pulled?
What did you spray in the spark plug well?
Air duster to clean it out! So nothing falls into the combustion chamber!
Would you mind linking the 06k 905 601 D spark plugs? I’m having issues finding if. Thank you so much
The part number might vary over time with revisions. You can check your local dealer with a VIN and get the part number from them, then look online for the best deal :)
@@GibbysGarage15 awesome!! Ty!
should you use some anti seize on the plugs?
There are arguments for both sides, personally I do not use anti seize. This car had 100k on it and the plugs came out very easily, so I don't see why it would be necessary in this application.
Should i DC the battery try first?
can't hurt
What if u don’t have a torque wrench? This is gunna be my first time doin this and don’t wanna fuk up
Be gentle and torque by hand.. it doesn't need a ton of torque, just enough for the gasket to crush and seat properly. If you go slow you will feel the gasket crush because it will get loose for a bit, then tight again. Good luck!
@@GibbysGarage15 thanks bro
@@GibbysGarage15VERY bad idea. Remember, this engine is aluminum, not cast iron. You can damage the threads if you overtighten the plugs. I'd just buy a torque wrench and set it for 18.4 ft/lbs of pressure.
@@largol33t12 I'm just going off my own experience. I trust my "feel" more than a torque wrench sometimes, especially for low torque numbers like this. I've had some corrosion cause my torque wrench to prematurely click, whereas, using my "feel" method, you can feel the moment the gasket crushes and know for certain you've made a good seal. This is my own experience and I'm not a technician so take it with a grain of salt. For first timers, maybe it's a good idea to use a torque wrench. Do what you want to your own car.